Splicing into an Engine Wiring Harness
11-06-2005, 09:41 PM
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Splicing into an Engine Wiring Harness
Been an electronics technician for 20 years....
Don't use crimp connectors or reinsulate with electrical tape. Both are bad
practices.
Do it right, and solder in new wires. I'd recommend you go to the boneyard
as someone else said and find that part of the wire loom, cut out the part
you need keeping everything intact from the bad area to the terminus of each
wire as practically as possible and replace the whole shooting match.
Stagger the solder connections, use rosin core not acid core solder, and be
sure to use flux on the wires.
First and foremost if you don't have experience at soldering, PRACTICE on
some other wires to get the technique down before going in. Soldering is
very easy with a bit of practice and guidance.
Lastly use heatshrink on each connection and make sure it forms a tight
seal.
"Stupendous Man" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
news:3t7ph8Fr7vgdU1@individual.net...
> Stuff like this can be easily, quickly, and permanently fixed with
> crimps. They make a type that has an heat-shrink insulator, so squeeze
> some dielectric grease in, crimp the wires, heat shrink the insulator, and
> you are done. The dielectric will prevent any moisture from getting in and
> corroding. Tie the whole mess away from the exhaust with some Adel clamps
> to prevent having to do it again.
> It's only a car, why waste time overdoing it?
> --
> Stupendous Man,
> Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty
>
Don't use crimp connectors or reinsulate with electrical tape. Both are bad
practices.
Do it right, and solder in new wires. I'd recommend you go to the boneyard
as someone else said and find that part of the wire loom, cut out the part
you need keeping everything intact from the bad area to the terminus of each
wire as practically as possible and replace the whole shooting match.
Stagger the solder connections, use rosin core not acid core solder, and be
sure to use flux on the wires.
First and foremost if you don't have experience at soldering, PRACTICE on
some other wires to get the technique down before going in. Soldering is
very easy with a bit of practice and guidance.
Lastly use heatshrink on each connection and make sure it forms a tight
seal.
"Stupendous Man" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
news:3t7ph8Fr7vgdU1@individual.net...
> Stuff like this can be easily, quickly, and permanently fixed with
> crimps. They make a type that has an heat-shrink insulator, so squeeze
> some dielectric grease in, crimp the wires, heat shrink the insulator, and
> you are done. The dielectric will prevent any moisture from getting in and
> corroding. Tie the whole mess away from the exhaust with some Adel clamps
> to prevent having to do it again.
> It's only a car, why waste time overdoing it?
> --
> Stupendous Man,
> Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty
>
11-07-2005, 01:00 AM
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Splicing into an Engine Wiring Harness
> My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
> existing harness. Clearly this would be much easier than replacing it
> with a new harness and would get me back on the road much quicker. But
> I don't want to do it if there is something significantly wrong with
> that technique.
Howard,
As an auto-electrician by trade, I'd be inclined to cut out the burnt
section, and replace it. For an application within the engine bay, a
solder/heatshrink combination would probably provide you with the longest
service life. Sure, it'll take a little longer, but should result in many
years of hassle-free operation :)
Aside from that - ensure the replacement wire is the same gauge as the burnt
stuff, (if not a little larger), and you're good to go.
Jas.
11-07-2005, 01:00 AM
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Splicing into an Engine Wiring Harness
> My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
> existing harness. Clearly this would be much easier than replacing it
> with a new harness and would get me back on the road much quicker. But
> I don't want to do it if there is something significantly wrong with
> that technique.
Howard,
As an auto-electrician by trade, I'd be inclined to cut out the burnt
section, and replace it. For an application within the engine bay, a
solder/heatshrink combination would probably provide you with the longest
service life. Sure, it'll take a little longer, but should result in many
years of hassle-free operation :)
Aside from that - ensure the replacement wire is the same gauge as the burnt
stuff, (if not a little larger), and you're good to go.
Jas.
11-07-2005, 01:00 AM
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Splicing into an Engine Wiring Harness
> My question is whether or not I can splice 18 inch sections into the
> existing harness. Clearly this would be much easier than replacing it
> with a new harness and would get me back on the road much quicker. But
> I don't want to do it if there is something significantly wrong with
> that technique.
Howard,
As an auto-electrician by trade, I'd be inclined to cut out the burnt
section, and replace it. For an application within the engine bay, a
solder/heatshrink combination would probably provide you with the longest
service life. Sure, it'll take a little longer, but should result in many
years of hassle-free operation :)
Aside from that - ensure the replacement wire is the same gauge as the burnt
stuff, (if not a little larger), and you're good to go.
Jas.
11-07-2005, 04:39 PM
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Splicing into an Engine Wiring Harness
Stupendous Man proclaimed:
> Stuff like this can be easily, quickly, and permanently fixed with crimps.
> They make a type that has an heat-shrink insulator, so squeeze some
> dielectric grease in, crimp the wires, heat shrink the insulator, and you
> are done. The dielectric will prevent any moisture from getting in and
> corroding. Tie the whole mess away from the exhaust with some Adel clamps to
> prevent having to do it again.
> It's only a car, why waste time overdoing it?
Some even come with the grease pre-installed. If you have the correct
crimp tool and connector, there is no need to heat shrink, as you crimp
the connector onto the conductor, then onto the insulator or both at
once with the more expensive die based tools.
> Stuff like this can be easily, quickly, and permanently fixed with crimps.
> They make a type that has an heat-shrink insulator, so squeeze some
> dielectric grease in, crimp the wires, heat shrink the insulator, and you
> are done. The dielectric will prevent any moisture from getting in and
> corroding. Tie the whole mess away from the exhaust with some Adel clamps to
> prevent having to do it again.
> It's only a car, why waste time overdoing it?
Some even come with the grease pre-installed. If you have the correct
crimp tool and connector, there is no need to heat shrink, as you crimp
the connector onto the conductor, then onto the insulator or both at
once with the more expensive die based tools.
11-07-2005, 04:39 PM
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Splicing into an Engine Wiring Harness
Stupendous Man proclaimed:
> Stuff like this can be easily, quickly, and permanently fixed with crimps.
> They make a type that has an heat-shrink insulator, so squeeze some
> dielectric grease in, crimp the wires, heat shrink the insulator, and you
> are done. The dielectric will prevent any moisture from getting in and
> corroding. Tie the whole mess away from the exhaust with some Adel clamps to
> prevent having to do it again.
> It's only a car, why waste time overdoing it?
Some even come with the grease pre-installed. If you have the correct
crimp tool and connector, there is no need to heat shrink, as you crimp
the connector onto the conductor, then onto the insulator or both at
once with the more expensive die based tools.
> Stuff like this can be easily, quickly, and permanently fixed with crimps.
> They make a type that has an heat-shrink insulator, so squeeze some
> dielectric grease in, crimp the wires, heat shrink the insulator, and you
> are done. The dielectric will prevent any moisture from getting in and
> corroding. Tie the whole mess away from the exhaust with some Adel clamps to
> prevent having to do it again.
> It's only a car, why waste time overdoing it?
Some even come with the grease pre-installed. If you have the correct
crimp tool and connector, there is no need to heat shrink, as you crimp
the connector onto the conductor, then onto the insulator or both at
once with the more expensive die based tools.
11-07-2005, 04:39 PM
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Splicing into an Engine Wiring Harness
Stupendous Man proclaimed:
> Stuff like this can be easily, quickly, and permanently fixed with crimps.
> They make a type that has an heat-shrink insulator, so squeeze some
> dielectric grease in, crimp the wires, heat shrink the insulator, and you
> are done. The dielectric will prevent any moisture from getting in and
> corroding. Tie the whole mess away from the exhaust with some Adel clamps to
> prevent having to do it again.
> It's only a car, why waste time overdoing it?
Some even come with the grease pre-installed. If you have the correct
crimp tool and connector, there is no need to heat shrink, as you crimp
the connector onto the conductor, then onto the insulator or both at
once with the more expensive die based tools.
> Stuff like this can be easily, quickly, and permanently fixed with crimps.
> They make a type that has an heat-shrink insulator, so squeeze some
> dielectric grease in, crimp the wires, heat shrink the insulator, and you
> are done. The dielectric will prevent any moisture from getting in and
> corroding. Tie the whole mess away from the exhaust with some Adel clamps to
> prevent having to do it again.
> It's only a car, why waste time overdoing it?
Some even come with the grease pre-installed. If you have the correct
crimp tool and connector, there is no need to heat shrink, as you crimp
the connector onto the conductor, then onto the insulator or both at
once with the more expensive die based tools.
11-07-2005, 04:46 PM
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Splicing into an Engine Wiring Harness
Being an electronics design engineer with special background in
manufacturing and service engineering, I'd have to strongly disagree
with you. For a big consulting fee, I could even prove it with
statistics. Or ask why there are no solder joints in a modern car.
The typical untrained person attempting to solder is going to do more
damage than good. In my experience troubleshooting complex military and
mainframes after some doofus decided to solder, there aren't that many
NASA grade trained solder technicians that can do it right every time
compared to using a good foolproof latching die based crimp tool. Worse
are the techs who thought it was a good idea to solder the crimped
connector "just for safety".
A good gas tight crimp is actually superior to solder anyway. That is
why no modern computer has used solder connections in the wiring looms
for decades. Before crimp, wire wrap was more reliable once the issues
of making sure it is gas tight and teflon wire cold flow were identified.
A modern protective gel filled crimp connector properly applied and
crimped beats any solder joint for mechanical and electrical integrity.
Rich proclaimed:
> Been an electronics technician for 20 years....
> Don't use crimp connectors or reinsulate with electrical tape. Both are bad
> practices.
> Do it right, and solder in new wires. I'd recommend you go to the boneyard
> as someone else said and find that part of the wire loom, cut out the part
> you need keeping everything intact from the bad area to the terminus of each
> wire as practically as possible and replace the whole shooting match.
> Stagger the solder connections, use rosin core not acid core solder, and be
> sure to use flux on the wires.
> First and foremost if you don't have experience at soldering, PRACTICE on
> some other wires to get the technique down before going in. Soldering is
> very easy with a bit of practice and guidance.
> Lastly use heatshrink on each connection and make sure it forms a tight
> seal.
>
> "Stupendous Man" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
> news:3t7ph8Fr7vgdU1@individual.net...
>
>>Stuff like this can be easily, quickly, and permanently fixed with
>>crimps. They make a type that has an heat-shrink insulator, so squeeze
>>some dielectric grease in, crimp the wires, heat shrink the insulator, and
>>you are done. The dielectric will prevent any moisture from getting in and
>>corroding. Tie the whole mess away from the exhaust with some Adel clamps
>>to prevent having to do it again.
>>It's only a car, why waste time overdoing it?
>>--
>>Stupendous Man,
>>Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty
>>
>
>
>
manufacturing and service engineering, I'd have to strongly disagree
with you. For a big consulting fee, I could even prove it with
statistics. Or ask why there are no solder joints in a modern car.
The typical untrained person attempting to solder is going to do more
damage than good. In my experience troubleshooting complex military and
mainframes after some doofus decided to solder, there aren't that many
NASA grade trained solder technicians that can do it right every time
compared to using a good foolproof latching die based crimp tool. Worse
are the techs who thought it was a good idea to solder the crimped
connector "just for safety".
A good gas tight crimp is actually superior to solder anyway. That is
why no modern computer has used solder connections in the wiring looms
for decades. Before crimp, wire wrap was more reliable once the issues
of making sure it is gas tight and teflon wire cold flow were identified.
A modern protective gel filled crimp connector properly applied and
crimped beats any solder joint for mechanical and electrical integrity.
Rich proclaimed:
> Been an electronics technician for 20 years....
> Don't use crimp connectors or reinsulate with electrical tape. Both are bad
> practices.
> Do it right, and solder in new wires. I'd recommend you go to the boneyard
> as someone else said and find that part of the wire loom, cut out the part
> you need keeping everything intact from the bad area to the terminus of each
> wire as practically as possible and replace the whole shooting match.
> Stagger the solder connections, use rosin core not acid core solder, and be
> sure to use flux on the wires.
> First and foremost if you don't have experience at soldering, PRACTICE on
> some other wires to get the technique down before going in. Soldering is
> very easy with a bit of practice and guidance.
> Lastly use heatshrink on each connection and make sure it forms a tight
> seal.
>
> "Stupendous Man" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
> news:3t7ph8Fr7vgdU1@individual.net...
>
>>Stuff like this can be easily, quickly, and permanently fixed with
>>crimps. They make a type that has an heat-shrink insulator, so squeeze
>>some dielectric grease in, crimp the wires, heat shrink the insulator, and
>>you are done. The dielectric will prevent any moisture from getting in and
>>corroding. Tie the whole mess away from the exhaust with some Adel clamps
>>to prevent having to do it again.
>>It's only a car, why waste time overdoing it?
>>--
>>Stupendous Man,
>>Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty
>>
>
>
>
11-07-2005, 04:46 PM
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Splicing into an Engine Wiring Harness
Being an electronics design engineer with special background in
manufacturing and service engineering, I'd have to strongly disagree
with you. For a big consulting fee, I could even prove it with
statistics. Or ask why there are no solder joints in a modern car.
The typical untrained person attempting to solder is going to do more
damage than good. In my experience troubleshooting complex military and
mainframes after some doofus decided to solder, there aren't that many
NASA grade trained solder technicians that can do it right every time
compared to using a good foolproof latching die based crimp tool. Worse
are the techs who thought it was a good idea to solder the crimped
connector "just for safety".
A good gas tight crimp is actually superior to solder anyway. That is
why no modern computer has used solder connections in the wiring looms
for decades. Before crimp, wire wrap was more reliable once the issues
of making sure it is gas tight and teflon wire cold flow were identified.
A modern protective gel filled crimp connector properly applied and
crimped beats any solder joint for mechanical and electrical integrity.
Rich proclaimed:
> Been an electronics technician for 20 years....
> Don't use crimp connectors or reinsulate with electrical tape. Both are bad
> practices.
> Do it right, and solder in new wires. I'd recommend you go to the boneyard
> as someone else said and find that part of the wire loom, cut out the part
> you need keeping everything intact from the bad area to the terminus of each
> wire as practically as possible and replace the whole shooting match.
> Stagger the solder connections, use rosin core not acid core solder, and be
> sure to use flux on the wires.
> First and foremost if you don't have experience at soldering, PRACTICE on
> some other wires to get the technique down before going in. Soldering is
> very easy with a bit of practice and guidance.
> Lastly use heatshrink on each connection and make sure it forms a tight
> seal.
>
> "Stupendous Man" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
> news:3t7ph8Fr7vgdU1@individual.net...
>
>>Stuff like this can be easily, quickly, and permanently fixed with
>>crimps. They make a type that has an heat-shrink insulator, so squeeze
>>some dielectric grease in, crimp the wires, heat shrink the insulator, and
>>you are done. The dielectric will prevent any moisture from getting in and
>>corroding. Tie the whole mess away from the exhaust with some Adel clamps
>>to prevent having to do it again.
>>It's only a car, why waste time overdoing it?
>>--
>>Stupendous Man,
>>Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty
>>
>
>
>
manufacturing and service engineering, I'd have to strongly disagree
with you. For a big consulting fee, I could even prove it with
statistics. Or ask why there are no solder joints in a modern car.
The typical untrained person attempting to solder is going to do more
damage than good. In my experience troubleshooting complex military and
mainframes after some doofus decided to solder, there aren't that many
NASA grade trained solder technicians that can do it right every time
compared to using a good foolproof latching die based crimp tool. Worse
are the techs who thought it was a good idea to solder the crimped
connector "just for safety".
A good gas tight crimp is actually superior to solder anyway. That is
why no modern computer has used solder connections in the wiring looms
for decades. Before crimp, wire wrap was more reliable once the issues
of making sure it is gas tight and teflon wire cold flow were identified.
A modern protective gel filled crimp connector properly applied and
crimped beats any solder joint for mechanical and electrical integrity.
Rich proclaimed:
> Been an electronics technician for 20 years....
> Don't use crimp connectors or reinsulate with electrical tape. Both are bad
> practices.
> Do it right, and solder in new wires. I'd recommend you go to the boneyard
> as someone else said and find that part of the wire loom, cut out the part
> you need keeping everything intact from the bad area to the terminus of each
> wire as practically as possible and replace the whole shooting match.
> Stagger the solder connections, use rosin core not acid core solder, and be
> sure to use flux on the wires.
> First and foremost if you don't have experience at soldering, PRACTICE on
> some other wires to get the technique down before going in. Soldering is
> very easy with a bit of practice and guidance.
> Lastly use heatshrink on each connection and make sure it forms a tight
> seal.
>
> "Stupendous Man" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
> news:3t7ph8Fr7vgdU1@individual.net...
>
>>Stuff like this can be easily, quickly, and permanently fixed with
>>crimps. They make a type that has an heat-shrink insulator, so squeeze
>>some dielectric grease in, crimp the wires, heat shrink the insulator, and
>>you are done. The dielectric will prevent any moisture from getting in and
>>corroding. Tie the whole mess away from the exhaust with some Adel clamps
>>to prevent having to do it again.
>>It's only a car, why waste time overdoing it?
>>--
>>Stupendous Man,
>>Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty
>>
>
>
>
11-07-2005, 04:46 PM
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Splicing into an Engine Wiring Harness
Being an electronics design engineer with special background in
manufacturing and service engineering, I'd have to strongly disagree
with you. For a big consulting fee, I could even prove it with
statistics. Or ask why there are no solder joints in a modern car.
The typical untrained person attempting to solder is going to do more
damage than good. In my experience troubleshooting complex military and
mainframes after some doofus decided to solder, there aren't that many
NASA grade trained solder technicians that can do it right every time
compared to using a good foolproof latching die based crimp tool. Worse
are the techs who thought it was a good idea to solder the crimped
connector "just for safety".
A good gas tight crimp is actually superior to solder anyway. That is
why no modern computer has used solder connections in the wiring looms
for decades. Before crimp, wire wrap was more reliable once the issues
of making sure it is gas tight and teflon wire cold flow were identified.
A modern protective gel filled crimp connector properly applied and
crimped beats any solder joint for mechanical and electrical integrity.
Rich proclaimed:
> Been an electronics technician for 20 years....
> Don't use crimp connectors or reinsulate with electrical tape. Both are bad
> practices.
> Do it right, and solder in new wires. I'd recommend you go to the boneyard
> as someone else said and find that part of the wire loom, cut out the part
> you need keeping everything intact from the bad area to the terminus of each
> wire as practically as possible and replace the whole shooting match.
> Stagger the solder connections, use rosin core not acid core solder, and be
> sure to use flux on the wires.
> First and foremost if you don't have experience at soldering, PRACTICE on
> some other wires to get the technique down before going in. Soldering is
> very easy with a bit of practice and guidance.
> Lastly use heatshrink on each connection and make sure it forms a tight
> seal.
>
> "Stupendous Man" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
> news:3t7ph8Fr7vgdU1@individual.net...
>
>>Stuff like this can be easily, quickly, and permanently fixed with
>>crimps. They make a type that has an heat-shrink insulator, so squeeze
>>some dielectric grease in, crimp the wires, heat shrink the insulator, and
>>you are done. The dielectric will prevent any moisture from getting in and
>>corroding. Tie the whole mess away from the exhaust with some Adel clamps
>>to prevent having to do it again.
>>It's only a car, why waste time overdoing it?
>>--
>>Stupendous Man,
>>Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty
>>
>
>
>
manufacturing and service engineering, I'd have to strongly disagree
with you. For a big consulting fee, I could even prove it with
statistics. Or ask why there are no solder joints in a modern car.
The typical untrained person attempting to solder is going to do more
damage than good. In my experience troubleshooting complex military and
mainframes after some doofus decided to solder, there aren't that many
NASA grade trained solder technicians that can do it right every time
compared to using a good foolproof latching die based crimp tool. Worse
are the techs who thought it was a good idea to solder the crimped
connector "just for safety".
A good gas tight crimp is actually superior to solder anyway. That is
why no modern computer has used solder connections in the wiring looms
for decades. Before crimp, wire wrap was more reliable once the issues
of making sure it is gas tight and teflon wire cold flow were identified.
A modern protective gel filled crimp connector properly applied and
crimped beats any solder joint for mechanical and electrical integrity.
Rich proclaimed:
> Been an electronics technician for 20 years....
> Don't use crimp connectors or reinsulate with electrical tape. Both are bad
> practices.
> Do it right, and solder in new wires. I'd recommend you go to the boneyard
> as someone else said and find that part of the wire loom, cut out the part
> you need keeping everything intact from the bad area to the terminus of each
> wire as practically as possible and replace the whole shooting match.
> Stagger the solder connections, use rosin core not acid core solder, and be
> sure to use flux on the wires.
> First and foremost if you don't have experience at soldering, PRACTICE on
> some other wires to get the technique down before going in. Soldering is
> very easy with a bit of practice and guidance.
> Lastly use heatshrink on each connection and make sure it forms a tight
> seal.
>
> "Stupendous Man" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
> news:3t7ph8Fr7vgdU1@individual.net...
>
>>Stuff like this can be easily, quickly, and permanently fixed with
>>crimps. They make a type that has an heat-shrink insulator, so squeeze
>>some dielectric grease in, crimp the wires, heat shrink the insulator, and
>>you are done. The dielectric will prevent any moisture from getting in and
>>corroding. Tie the whole mess away from the exhaust with some Adel clamps
>>to prevent having to do it again.
>>It's only a car, why waste time overdoing it?
>>--
>>Stupendous Man,
>>Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty
>>
>
>
>