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In article <20031007224214.15462.00003445@mb-m06.aol.com>,
mlmacchia@aol.comspambgon (Matt Macchiarolo) writes:

>IIRC it was a stock shaft but I may be mistaken. I'll look though my sent
>messages and see if I can locate the thread.
>
>In article <5MIgb.32142$r25.27374@twister.southeast.rr.com> , "Nathan W.
>Collier" <JeepChat@7SlotGrille.com> writes:
>
>>"Matt Macchiarolo" <mlmacchia@aol.comspambgon> wrote in message
>>news:20031007192552.21457.00001153@mb-m10.aol.com...
>>> Hmm, there one someone here about a year ago who did just that..can't
>>remember
>>> who, but his mainshaft split right at that narrow section.
>>
>>improper installations (drilling into the narrow section when the
>>instructions are clear on that) does not count.
>


* * *
Matt Macchiarolo
www.townpeddler.com
www.wolverine4wd.org
http://wolverine4wd.org/rigs/macchiarolo_ml.html

 

Poor babies!!! ;-)

"Kevin in San Diego" <kevin_hedstrom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:KzAgb.47388$gv5.38481@fed1read05...
> And then there are those of us stuck with the np242 transfer case.
> KH
>
> "Gerald G. McGeorge" <gmcgeorge@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:vo5ga922gar68c@corp.supernews.com...
> > Tom Woods recommended the JB Conversions kit, which uses a stronger
output
> > shaft and a splined output yoke. Much stronger than the other main type,
> > which uses a shortened & tapped stock output shaft. FWIW, I installed a
> > Currie kit on my '94 YJ which just uses a shortened & tapped stock shaft
&
> > flange plate to accept a CV shaft. It held up fine with the stock
> > drivetrain. I replaced the entire t-case with an AtlasII when I
upgraded
> > the axles & added lockers.
> >
> > As for doing it yourself, and bearing in mind I am a former ASE Master
> Tech
> > who's done many transmission repairs before I attempted this, it's not
> > really a very complicated operation. FWIW, I did mine by splitting the
> case
> > in the vehicle, rather than pulling the whole unit out of the vehicle.
> > Hardest part of the entire operation was getting the front output yoke's
> nut
> > loose, but once that was accomplished the replacement went very easily.
> Now,
> > the
> > JB Conversions type kits are a bit more complex and I'm not sure you
could
> > do it the way I just described. Once Installed, adding on the new rear
> > driveshaft is a piece 'o cake.
> >
> > "Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
> > news:47b769ae.0310061901.4bec7f13@posting.google.c om...
> > > I'm planning to replace my rear driveshaft w/a cv shaft soon, and get
> > > the SYE installed on the t-case at same time. (I'm really overdue with
> > > this conversion and driveshaft replacement; I've had a 4" lift and 1"
> > > t-case drop installed for over a year now, and need to finally replace
> > > that u-joint rear!)
> > >
> > > My questions to the group are:
> > >
> > > 1) What brand/model/whatever of SYE kit do you recommend? Does it
> > > matter? This is with a stock 1997 TJ t-case.
> > >
> > > 2) I'm thinking about installing the SYE kit myself. I've never
> > > cracked a t-case (or tranny or anything...) before, but I'm pretty
> > > confident, and gutsy about attempting new challenges like this.
> > > However, I want to make sure that if I choose to do this myself rather
> > > than pay a shop, that I know what I'm getting myself into. So, please
> > > let me know of any pitfalls or tips/tricks I might find useful when
> > > performing a SYE kit install on my t-case. And, if there are any
> > > special tools that I'll want to have on hand or buy for the install,
> > > I'd appreciate a heads-up in that department as well. I've looked
> > > through the web and found a couple of reports on performing this type
> > > of install, but most of them seem to assume you know what you're doing
> > > with an open t-case (and you now how to remove it, for that matter).
> > > If anyone knows of some good guides/instructions for this sort of
> > > thing, feel free to point me to them! (Bill...;-) I just know you got
> > > some links for this!)
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > > /Bob
> > >
> > > Hmm...maybe one day I'll learn enough that I can maybe ANSWER a
> > > question or two on this forum, rather than just asking them...yeah
> > > right! lol
> >
> >
>
>

 

Poor babies!!! ;-)

"Kevin in San Diego" <kevin_hedstrom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:KzAgb.47388$gv5.38481@fed1read05...
> And then there are those of us stuck with the np242 transfer case.
> KH
>
> "Gerald G. McGeorge" <gmcgeorge@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:vo5ga922gar68c@corp.supernews.com...
> > Tom Woods recommended the JB Conversions kit, which uses a stronger
output
> > shaft and a splined output yoke. Much stronger than the other main type,
> > which uses a shortened & tapped stock output shaft. FWIW, I installed a
> > Currie kit on my '94 YJ which just uses a shortened & tapped stock shaft
&
> > flange plate to accept a CV shaft. It held up fine with the stock
> > drivetrain. I replaced the entire t-case with an AtlasII when I
upgraded
> > the axles & added lockers.
> >
> > As for doing it yourself, and bearing in mind I am a former ASE Master
> Tech
> > who's done many transmission repairs before I attempted this, it's not
> > really a very complicated operation. FWIW, I did mine by splitting the
> case
> > in the vehicle, rather than pulling the whole unit out of the vehicle.
> > Hardest part of the entire operation was getting the front output yoke's
> nut
> > loose, but once that was accomplished the replacement went very easily.
> Now,
> > the
> > JB Conversions type kits are a bit more complex and I'm not sure you
could
> > do it the way I just described. Once Installed, adding on the new rear
> > driveshaft is a piece 'o cake.
> >
> > "Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
> > news:47b769ae.0310061901.4bec7f13@posting.google.c om...
> > > I'm planning to replace my rear driveshaft w/a cv shaft soon, and get
> > > the SYE installed on the t-case at same time. (I'm really overdue with
> > > this conversion and driveshaft replacement; I've had a 4" lift and 1"
> > > t-case drop installed for over a year now, and need to finally replace
> > > that u-joint rear!)
> > >
> > > My questions to the group are:
> > >
> > > 1) What brand/model/whatever of SYE kit do you recommend? Does it
> > > matter? This is with a stock 1997 TJ t-case.
> > >
> > > 2) I'm thinking about installing the SYE kit myself. I've never
> > > cracked a t-case (or tranny or anything...) before, but I'm pretty
> > > confident, and gutsy about attempting new challenges like this.
> > > However, I want to make sure that if I choose to do this myself rather
> > > than pay a shop, that I know what I'm getting myself into. So, please
> > > let me know of any pitfalls or tips/tricks I might find useful when
> > > performing a SYE kit install on my t-case. And, if there are any
> > > special tools that I'll want to have on hand or buy for the install,
> > > I'd appreciate a heads-up in that department as well. I've looked
> > > through the web and found a couple of reports on performing this type
> > > of install, but most of them seem to assume you know what you're doing
> > > with an open t-case (and you now how to remove it, for that matter).
> > > If anyone knows of some good guides/instructions for this sort of
> > > thing, feel free to point me to them! (Bill...;-) I just know you got
> > > some links for this!)
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > > /Bob
> > >
> > > Hmm...maybe one day I'll learn enough that I can maybe ANSWER a
> > > question or two on this forum, rather than just asking them...yeah
> > > right! lol
> >
> >
>
>

 

Poor babies!!! ;-)

"Kevin in San Diego" <kevin_hedstrom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:KzAgb.47388$gv5.38481@fed1read05...
> And then there are those of us stuck with the np242 transfer case.
> KH
>
> "Gerald G. McGeorge" <gmcgeorge@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:vo5ga922gar68c@corp.supernews.com...
> > Tom Woods recommended the JB Conversions kit, which uses a stronger
output
> > shaft and a splined output yoke. Much stronger than the other main type,
> > which uses a shortened & tapped stock output shaft. FWIW, I installed a
> > Currie kit on my '94 YJ which just uses a shortened & tapped stock shaft
&
> > flange plate to accept a CV shaft. It held up fine with the stock
> > drivetrain. I replaced the entire t-case with an AtlasII when I
upgraded
> > the axles & added lockers.
> >
> > As for doing it yourself, and bearing in mind I am a former ASE Master
> Tech
> > who's done many transmission repairs before I attempted this, it's not
> > really a very complicated operation. FWIW, I did mine by splitting the
> case
> > in the vehicle, rather than pulling the whole unit out of the vehicle.
> > Hardest part of the entire operation was getting the front output yoke's
> nut
> > loose, but once that was accomplished the replacement went very easily.
> Now,
> > the
> > JB Conversions type kits are a bit more complex and I'm not sure you
could
> > do it the way I just described. Once Installed, adding on the new rear
> > driveshaft is a piece 'o cake.
> >
> > "Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
> > news:47b769ae.0310061901.4bec7f13@posting.google.c om...
> > > I'm planning to replace my rear driveshaft w/a cv shaft soon, and get
> > > the SYE installed on the t-case at same time. (I'm really overdue with
> > > this conversion and driveshaft replacement; I've had a 4" lift and 1"
> > > t-case drop installed for over a year now, and need to finally replace
> > > that u-joint rear!)
> > >
> > > My questions to the group are:
> > >
> > > 1) What brand/model/whatever of SYE kit do you recommend? Does it
> > > matter? This is with a stock 1997 TJ t-case.
> > >
> > > 2) I'm thinking about installing the SYE kit myself. I've never
> > > cracked a t-case (or tranny or anything...) before, but I'm pretty
> > > confident, and gutsy about attempting new challenges like this.
> > > However, I want to make sure that if I choose to do this myself rather
> > > than pay a shop, that I know what I'm getting myself into. So, please
> > > let me know of any pitfalls or tips/tricks I might find useful when
> > > performing a SYE kit install on my t-case. And, if there are any
> > > special tools that I'll want to have on hand or buy for the install,
> > > I'd appreciate a heads-up in that department as well. I've looked
> > > through the web and found a couple of reports on performing this type
> > > of install, but most of them seem to assume you know what you're doing
> > > with an open t-case (and you now how to remove it, for that matter).
> > > If anyone knows of some good guides/instructions for this sort of
> > > thing, feel free to point me to them! (Bill...;-) I just know you got
> > > some links for this!)
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > > /Bob
> > >
> > > Hmm...maybe one day I'll learn enough that I can maybe ANSWER a
> > > question or two on this forum, rather than just asking them...yeah
> > > right! lol
> >
> >
>
>

 

They have been known to snap if pushed by a V8 or if a D60 with Detroit is
behind it.

"Nathan W. Collier" <JeepChat@7SlotGrille.com> wrote in message
news:GNCgb.31606$xB4.29585@twister.southeast.rr.co m...
> "Matt Macchiarolo" <mlmacchia@aol.comspambgon> wrote in message
> news:20031007072735.21232.00001090@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > i
> > >know of _no_ advantage to using the main shaft replacement system
> >
> > http://7slotgrille.com/tech/sye2/allapart.jpg
> >
> > Look at the two mainshafts...look at the difference in thickness south
of
> the
> > syncro bearing surfaces. That's the advantage.
>
> theres no real world advantage to having a stronger shaft. the existing
> shaft is more than adequate in its original length, and shortening it only
> makes it stronger. in _all_ my years of tinkering ive _never_ heard of
> anyone ever busting a stock 231 main shaft.
>
>
> --
> Nathan W. Collier
> http://7SlotGrille.com
>
>
>

 

They have been known to snap if pushed by a V8 or if a D60 with Detroit is
behind it.

"Nathan W. Collier" <JeepChat@7SlotGrille.com> wrote in message
news:GNCgb.31606$xB4.29585@twister.southeast.rr.co m...
> "Matt Macchiarolo" <mlmacchia@aol.comspambgon> wrote in message
> news:20031007072735.21232.00001090@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > i
> > >know of _no_ advantage to using the main shaft replacement system
> >
> > http://7slotgrille.com/tech/sye2/allapart.jpg
> >
> > Look at the two mainshafts...look at the difference in thickness south
of
> the
> > syncro bearing surfaces. That's the advantage.
>
> theres no real world advantage to having a stronger shaft. the existing
> shaft is more than adequate in its original length, and shortening it only
> makes it stronger. in _all_ my years of tinkering ive _never_ heard of
> anyone ever busting a stock 231 main shaft.
>
>
> --
> Nathan W. Collier
> http://7SlotGrille.com
>
>
>

 

They have been known to snap if pushed by a V8 or if a D60 with Detroit is
behind it.

"Nathan W. Collier" <JeepChat@7SlotGrille.com> wrote in message
news:GNCgb.31606$xB4.29585@twister.southeast.rr.co m...
> "Matt Macchiarolo" <mlmacchia@aol.comspambgon> wrote in message
> news:20031007072735.21232.00001090@mb-m13.aol.com...
> > > i
> > >know of _no_ advantage to using the main shaft replacement system
> >
> > http://7slotgrille.com/tech/sye2/allapart.jpg
> >
> > Look at the two mainshafts...look at the difference in thickness south
of
> the
> > syncro bearing surfaces. That's the advantage.
>
> theres no real world advantage to having a stronger shaft. the existing
> shaft is more than adequate in its original length, and shortening it only
> makes it stronger. in _all_ my years of tinkering ive _never_ heard of
> anyone ever busting a stock 231 main shaft.
>
>
> --
> Nathan W. Collier
> http://7SlotGrille.com
>
>
>

 

Ray Currie snapped a few before he threw in the towel and converted to the
larger output shaft. Stock shafts break when stuck between 4.1 ratio
upgrades, V8 torque, 5:33 gears and Detroits...."El Snapo!" That's why DC
put the upgraded T-case in the Rubicon and why the stronger shaft of the 242
is often used as the basis of the upgrade.

"Nathan W. Collier" <JeepChat@7SlotGrille.com> wrote in message
news:7QCgb.31608$xB4.2651@twister.southeast.rr.com ...
> "Gerald G. McGeorge" <gmcgeorge@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:vo5ga922gar68c@corp.supernews.com...
> > Much stronger than the other main type,
> > which uses a shortened & tapped stock output shaft.
>
> why is shaft strength relevant when the stock shaft will never break?
>
> --
> Nathan W. Collier
> http://7SlotGrille.com
>
>
>

 

Ray Currie snapped a few before he threw in the towel and converted to the
larger output shaft. Stock shafts break when stuck between 4.1 ratio
upgrades, V8 torque, 5:33 gears and Detroits...."El Snapo!" That's why DC
put the upgraded T-case in the Rubicon and why the stronger shaft of the 242
is often used as the basis of the upgrade.

"Nathan W. Collier" <JeepChat@7SlotGrille.com> wrote in message
news:7QCgb.31608$xB4.2651@twister.southeast.rr.com ...
> "Gerald G. McGeorge" <gmcgeorge@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:vo5ga922gar68c@corp.supernews.com...
> > Much stronger than the other main type,
> > which uses a shortened & tapped stock output shaft.
>
> why is shaft strength relevant when the stock shaft will never break?
>
> --
> Nathan W. Collier
> http://7SlotGrille.com
>
>
>

 

Ray Currie snapped a few before he threw in the towel and converted to the
larger output shaft. Stock shafts break when stuck between 4.1 ratio
upgrades, V8 torque, 5:33 gears and Detroits...."El Snapo!" That's why DC
put the upgraded T-case in the Rubicon and why the stronger shaft of the 242
is often used as the basis of the upgrade.

"Nathan W. Collier" <JeepChat@7SlotGrille.com> wrote in message
news:7QCgb.31608$xB4.2651@twister.southeast.rr.com ...
> "Gerald G. McGeorge" <gmcgeorge@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:vo5ga922gar68c@corp.supernews.com...
> > Much stronger than the other main type,
> > which uses a shortened & tapped stock output shaft.
>
> why is shaft strength relevant when the stock shaft will never break?
>
> --
> Nathan W. Collier
> http://7SlotGrille.com
>
>
>