RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
08-16-2007, 10:18 AM
#51
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 16, 2:58 am, Garth Almgren <nos...@mukyj.com> wrote:
> Around 8/15/2007 10:53 AM, Tracie wrote:
>
> > Also forgot to ask one little question. What is your opinion on black
> > rims? My Wrangler is the Midnight Blue Pearlcoat metallic with the
> > black soft top, black tinted side and rear windows, and of course the
> > black fender flares. HOWEVER, I do have stainless hinges on the
> > doors, hood, and windshield. Just wondering if the black rims would
> > look doofy, or would steel/aluminum look better due to the stainless
> > hardware.
>
> Hey, whatever looks good to you is what matters. :)
>
> Try this:http://virtualwheels.lesschwab.com/v...elsonline.html
> Pick your Jeep and color, and you can visualize what some different
> colors and styles of wheels will look like.
>
> The online selection seems to cater to the 18"+ bling crowd, but the
> maker Allied has a black 15" wagon-wheel style and a silver 15" 10 hole
> that both look very good on the demo's blacked-out Wrangler.
>
> --
> ~/Garth - 1993 Wrangler S 2.5
> { }|||||||{ } "MukYJ"
Mike --
So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
Twaldron --
I appreciate your advice, and it is mostly true (I do agree with much
of what you're saying). However, I would like to avoid the expense of
a new CV driveshaft/SYE kit if I can get the same amount of lift using
other combinations of suspension or body lifts and still be able to
avoid the vibes. As for the gearing, I do agree. Down the road, I am
going to change the gearing to at least 4.11 as you mentioned. As far
as 33s being miserable with the gearing that I currently have, would
32s make any significant difference as far as the higher gears being
tall?
> Around 8/15/2007 10:53 AM, Tracie wrote:
>
> > Also forgot to ask one little question. What is your opinion on black
> > rims? My Wrangler is the Midnight Blue Pearlcoat metallic with the
> > black soft top, black tinted side and rear windows, and of course the
> > black fender flares. HOWEVER, I do have stainless hinges on the
> > doors, hood, and windshield. Just wondering if the black rims would
> > look doofy, or would steel/aluminum look better due to the stainless
> > hardware.
>
> Hey, whatever looks good to you is what matters. :)
>
> Try this:http://virtualwheels.lesschwab.com/v...elsonline.html
> Pick your Jeep and color, and you can visualize what some different
> colors and styles of wheels will look like.
>
> The online selection seems to cater to the 18"+ bling crowd, but the
> maker Allied has a black 15" wagon-wheel style and a silver 15" 10 hole
> that both look very good on the demo's blacked-out Wrangler.
>
> --
> ~/Garth - 1993 Wrangler S 2.5
> { }|||||||{ } "MukYJ"
Mike --
So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
Twaldron --
I appreciate your advice, and it is mostly true (I do agree with much
of what you're saying). However, I would like to avoid the expense of
a new CV driveshaft/SYE kit if I can get the same amount of lift using
other combinations of suspension or body lifts and still be able to
avoid the vibes. As for the gearing, I do agree. Down the road, I am
going to change the gearing to at least 4.11 as you mentioned. As far
as 33s being miserable with the gearing that I currently have, would
32s make any significant difference as far as the higher gears being
tall?
08-16-2007, 10:18 AM
#52
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 16, 2:58 am, Garth Almgren <nos...@mukyj.com> wrote:
> Around 8/15/2007 10:53 AM, Tracie wrote:
>
> > Also forgot to ask one little question. What is your opinion on black
> > rims? My Wrangler is the Midnight Blue Pearlcoat metallic with the
> > black soft top, black tinted side and rear windows, and of course the
> > black fender flares. HOWEVER, I do have stainless hinges on the
> > doors, hood, and windshield. Just wondering if the black rims would
> > look doofy, or would steel/aluminum look better due to the stainless
> > hardware.
>
> Hey, whatever looks good to you is what matters. :)
>
> Try this:http://virtualwheels.lesschwab.com/v...elsonline.html
> Pick your Jeep and color, and you can visualize what some different
> colors and styles of wheels will look like.
>
> The online selection seems to cater to the 18"+ bling crowd, but the
> maker Allied has a black 15" wagon-wheel style and a silver 15" 10 hole
> that both look very good on the demo's blacked-out Wrangler.
>
> --
> ~/Garth - 1993 Wrangler S 2.5
> { }|||||||{ } "MukYJ"
Mike --
So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
Twaldron --
I appreciate your advice, and it is mostly true (I do agree with much
of what you're saying). However, I would like to avoid the expense of
a new CV driveshaft/SYE kit if I can get the same amount of lift using
other combinations of suspension or body lifts and still be able to
avoid the vibes. As for the gearing, I do agree. Down the road, I am
going to change the gearing to at least 4.11 as you mentioned. As far
as 33s being miserable with the gearing that I currently have, would
32s make any significant difference as far as the higher gears being
tall?
> Around 8/15/2007 10:53 AM, Tracie wrote:
>
> > Also forgot to ask one little question. What is your opinion on black
> > rims? My Wrangler is the Midnight Blue Pearlcoat metallic with the
> > black soft top, black tinted side and rear windows, and of course the
> > black fender flares. HOWEVER, I do have stainless hinges on the
> > doors, hood, and windshield. Just wondering if the black rims would
> > look doofy, or would steel/aluminum look better due to the stainless
> > hardware.
>
> Hey, whatever looks good to you is what matters. :)
>
> Try this:http://virtualwheels.lesschwab.com/v...elsonline.html
> Pick your Jeep and color, and you can visualize what some different
> colors and styles of wheels will look like.
>
> The online selection seems to cater to the 18"+ bling crowd, but the
> maker Allied has a black 15" wagon-wheel style and a silver 15" 10 hole
> that both look very good on the demo's blacked-out Wrangler.
>
> --
> ~/Garth - 1993 Wrangler S 2.5
> { }|||||||{ } "MukYJ"
Mike --
So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
Twaldron --
I appreciate your advice, and it is mostly true (I do agree with much
of what you're saying). However, I would like to avoid the expense of
a new CV driveshaft/SYE kit if I can get the same amount of lift using
other combinations of suspension or body lifts and still be able to
avoid the vibes. As for the gearing, I do agree. Down the road, I am
going to change the gearing to at least 4.11 as you mentioned. As far
as 33s being miserable with the gearing that I currently have, would
32s make any significant difference as far as the higher gears being
tall?
08-16-2007, 10:18 AM
#53
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 16, 2:58 am, Garth Almgren <nos...@mukyj.com> wrote:
> Around 8/15/2007 10:53 AM, Tracie wrote:
>
> > Also forgot to ask one little question. What is your opinion on black
> > rims? My Wrangler is the Midnight Blue Pearlcoat metallic with the
> > black soft top, black tinted side and rear windows, and of course the
> > black fender flares. HOWEVER, I do have stainless hinges on the
> > doors, hood, and windshield. Just wondering if the black rims would
> > look doofy, or would steel/aluminum look better due to the stainless
> > hardware.
>
> Hey, whatever looks good to you is what matters. :)
>
> Try this:http://virtualwheels.lesschwab.com/v...elsonline.html
> Pick your Jeep and color, and you can visualize what some different
> colors and styles of wheels will look like.
>
> The online selection seems to cater to the 18"+ bling crowd, but the
> maker Allied has a black 15" wagon-wheel style and a silver 15" 10 hole
> that both look very good on the demo's blacked-out Wrangler.
>
> --
> ~/Garth - 1993 Wrangler S 2.5
> { }|||||||{ } "MukYJ"
Mike --
So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
Twaldron --
I appreciate your advice, and it is mostly true (I do agree with much
of what you're saying). However, I would like to avoid the expense of
a new CV driveshaft/SYE kit if I can get the same amount of lift using
other combinations of suspension or body lifts and still be able to
avoid the vibes. As for the gearing, I do agree. Down the road, I am
going to change the gearing to at least 4.11 as you mentioned. As far
as 33s being miserable with the gearing that I currently have, would
32s make any significant difference as far as the higher gears being
tall?
> Around 8/15/2007 10:53 AM, Tracie wrote:
>
> > Also forgot to ask one little question. What is your opinion on black
> > rims? My Wrangler is the Midnight Blue Pearlcoat metallic with the
> > black soft top, black tinted side and rear windows, and of course the
> > black fender flares. HOWEVER, I do have stainless hinges on the
> > doors, hood, and windshield. Just wondering if the black rims would
> > look doofy, or would steel/aluminum look better due to the stainless
> > hardware.
>
> Hey, whatever looks good to you is what matters. :)
>
> Try this:http://virtualwheels.lesschwab.com/v...elsonline.html
> Pick your Jeep and color, and you can visualize what some different
> colors and styles of wheels will look like.
>
> The online selection seems to cater to the 18"+ bling crowd, but the
> maker Allied has a black 15" wagon-wheel style and a silver 15" 10 hole
> that both look very good on the demo's blacked-out Wrangler.
>
> --
> ~/Garth - 1993 Wrangler S 2.5
> { }|||||||{ } "MukYJ"
Mike --
So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
Twaldron --
I appreciate your advice, and it is mostly true (I do agree with much
of what you're saying). However, I would like to avoid the expense of
a new CV driveshaft/SYE kit if I can get the same amount of lift using
other combinations of suspension or body lifts and still be able to
avoid the vibes. As for the gearing, I do agree. Down the road, I am
going to change the gearing to at least 4.11 as you mentioned. As far
as 33s being miserable with the gearing that I currently have, would
32s make any significant difference as far as the higher gears being
tall?
08-16-2007, 11:08 AM
#54
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
>
> Mike --
> So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
matches it without stressing the hoses.
The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
thing to do.
Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
line up the shifters if needed.
Mike
>
> Mike --
> So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
matches it without stressing the hoses.
The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
thing to do.
Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
line up the shifters if needed.
Mike
08-16-2007, 11:08 AM
#55
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
>
> Mike --
> So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
matches it without stressing the hoses.
The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
thing to do.
Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
line up the shifters if needed.
Mike
>
> Mike --
> So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
matches it without stressing the hoses.
The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
thing to do.
Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
line up the shifters if needed.
Mike
08-16-2007, 11:08 AM
#56
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
>
> Mike --
> So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
matches it without stressing the hoses.
The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
thing to do.
Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
line up the shifters if needed.
Mike
>
> Mike --
> So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
matches it without stressing the hoses.
The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
thing to do.
Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
line up the shifters if needed.
Mike
08-16-2007, 11:08 AM
#57
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
>
> Mike --
> So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
matches it without stressing the hoses.
The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
thing to do.
Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
line up the shifters if needed.
Mike
>
> Mike --
> So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
matches it without stressing the hoses.
The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
thing to do.
Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
line up the shifters if needed.
Mike
08-16-2007, 01:02 PM
#58
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Tracie wrote:
>
> > Mike --
> > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
> In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
> body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
> matches it without stressing the hoses.
>
> The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
> for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
> lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
> thing to do.
>
> Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
> mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
> read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
> shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
> line up the shifters if needed.
>
> Mike
OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
making.
The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
--
I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
THANKS AGAIN!
> Tracie wrote:
>
> > Mike --
> > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
> In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
> body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
> matches it without stressing the hoses.
>
> The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
> for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
> lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
> thing to do.
>
> Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
> mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
> read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
> shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
> line up the shifters if needed.
>
> Mike
OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
making.
The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
--
I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
THANKS AGAIN!
08-16-2007, 01:02 PM
#59
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Tracie wrote:
>
> > Mike --
> > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
> In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
> body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
> matches it without stressing the hoses.
>
> The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
> for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
> lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
> thing to do.
>
> Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
> mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
> read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
> shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
> line up the shifters if needed.
>
> Mike
OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
making.
The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
--
I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
THANKS AGAIN!
> Tracie wrote:
>
> > Mike --
> > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
> In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
> body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
> matches it without stressing the hoses.
>
> The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
> for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
> lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
> thing to do.
>
> Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
> mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
> read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
> shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
> line up the shifters if needed.
>
> Mike
OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
making.
The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
--
I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
THANKS AGAIN!
08-16-2007, 01:02 PM
#60
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Tracie wrote:
>
> > Mike --
> > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
> In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
> body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
> matches it without stressing the hoses.
>
> The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
> for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
> lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
> thing to do.
>
> Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
> mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
> read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
> shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
> line up the shifters if needed.
>
> Mike
OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
making.
The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
--
I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
THANKS AGAIN!
> Tracie wrote:
>
> > Mike --
> > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
> In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
> body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
> matches it without stressing the hoses.
>
> The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
> for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
> lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
> thing to do.
>
> Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
> mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
> read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
> shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
> line up the shifters if needed.
>
> Mike
OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
making.
The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
--
I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
THANKS AGAIN!
