RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
> On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Tracie wrote:
>>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6
>>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end
>>> sucking! : O
>> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2
>> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours
>> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power
>> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition.
>>
>>
>>
>>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still
>>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too
>>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be
>>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud
>>> and light trail riding.
>> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these
>> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears.
>>
>> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so
>> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power
>> at speed so you need to use a lower gear.
>>
>> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely.
>>
>> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the
>> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs
>> from mud. You do have 4 low though.
>>
>> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they
>> have very little traction, they float and just spin out.
>>
>> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on,
>> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies.
>> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get
>> hung up on stumps and stuff still.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the
> higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to
> remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with
> the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and
> tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills
> that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads.
>
> As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO
> body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE?
> Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body
> lift?
>
The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get
up to shifting rpm.
For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I
can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about
3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find
out how fast 5th will go.
The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a
'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift.
My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints
because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on
to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a
totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent
body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for
33's.
Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think
the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push
the suspension envelope.
I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's
what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE
and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I
like mine the way it is.
Mike
> On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Tracie wrote:
>>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6
>>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end
>>> sucking! : O
>> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2
>> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours
>> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power
>> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition.
>>
>>
>>
>>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still
>>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too
>>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be
>>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud
>>> and light trail riding.
>> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these
>> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears.
>>
>> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so
>> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power
>> at speed so you need to use a lower gear.
>>
>> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely.
>>
>> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the
>> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs
>> from mud. You do have 4 low though.
>>
>> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they
>> have very little traction, they float and just spin out.
>>
>> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on,
>> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies.
>> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get
>> hung up on stumps and stuff still.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the
> higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to
> remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with
> the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and
> tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills
> that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads.
>
> As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO
> body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE?
> Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body
> lift?
>
The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get
up to shifting rpm.
For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I
can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about
3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find
out how fast 5th will go.
The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a
'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift.
My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints
because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on
to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a
totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent
body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for
33's.
Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think
the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push
the suspension envelope.
I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's
what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE
and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I
like mine the way it is.
Mike
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
> On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Tracie wrote:
>>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6
>>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end
>>> sucking! : O
>> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2
>> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours
>> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power
>> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition.
>>
>>
>>
>>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still
>>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too
>>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be
>>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud
>>> and light trail riding.
>> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these
>> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears.
>>
>> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so
>> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power
>> at speed so you need to use a lower gear.
>>
>> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely.
>>
>> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the
>> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs
>> from mud. You do have 4 low though.
>>
>> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they
>> have very little traction, they float and just spin out.
>>
>> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on,
>> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies.
>> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get
>> hung up on stumps and stuff still.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the
> higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to
> remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with
> the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and
> tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills
> that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads.
>
> As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO
> body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE?
> Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body
> lift?
>
The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get
up to shifting rpm.
For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I
can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about
3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find
out how fast 5th will go.
The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a
'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift.
My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints
because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on
to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a
totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent
body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for
33's.
Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think
the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push
the suspension envelope.
I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's
what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE
and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I
like mine the way it is.
Mike
> On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Tracie wrote:
>>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6
>>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end
>>> sucking! : O
>> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2
>> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours
>> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power
>> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition.
>>
>>
>>
>>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still
>>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too
>>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be
>>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud
>>> and light trail riding.
>> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these
>> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears.
>>
>> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so
>> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power
>> at speed so you need to use a lower gear.
>>
>> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely.
>>
>> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the
>> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs
>> from mud. You do have 4 low though.
>>
>> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they
>> have very little traction, they float and just spin out.
>>
>> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on,
>> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies.
>> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get
>> hung up on stumps and stuff still.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the
> higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to
> remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with
> the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and
> tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills
> that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads.
>
> As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO
> body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE?
> Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body
> lift?
>
The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get
up to shifting rpm.
For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I
can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about
3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find
out how fast 5th will go.
The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a
'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift.
My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints
because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on
to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a
totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent
body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for
33's.
Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think
the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push
the suspension envelope.
I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's
what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE
and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I
like mine the way it is.
Mike
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
> On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Tracie wrote:
>>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6
>>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end
>>> sucking! : O
>> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2
>> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours
>> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power
>> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition.
>>
>>
>>
>>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still
>>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too
>>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be
>>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud
>>> and light trail riding.
>> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these
>> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears.
>>
>> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so
>> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power
>> at speed so you need to use a lower gear.
>>
>> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely.
>>
>> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the
>> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs
>> from mud. You do have 4 low though.
>>
>> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they
>> have very little traction, they float and just spin out.
>>
>> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on,
>> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies.
>> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get
>> hung up on stumps and stuff still.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the
> higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to
> remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with
> the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and
> tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills
> that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads.
>
> As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO
> body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE?
> Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body
> lift?
>
The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get
up to shifting rpm.
For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I
can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about
3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find
out how fast 5th will go.
The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a
'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift.
My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints
because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on
to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a
totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent
body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for
33's.
Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think
the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push
the suspension envelope.
I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's
what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE
and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I
like mine the way it is.
Mike
> On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Tracie wrote:
>>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6
>>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end
>>> sucking! : O
>> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2
>> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours
>> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power
>> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition.
>>
>>
>>
>>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still
>>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too
>>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be
>>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud
>>> and light trail riding.
>> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these
>> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears.
>>
>> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so
>> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power
>> at speed so you need to use a lower gear.
>>
>> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely.
>>
>> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the
>> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs
>> from mud. You do have 4 low though.
>>
>> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they
>> have very little traction, they float and just spin out.
>>
>> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on,
>> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies.
>> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get
>> hung up on stumps and stuff still.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the
> higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to
> remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with
> the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and
> tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills
> that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads.
>
> As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO
> body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE?
> Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body
> lift?
>
The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get
up to shifting rpm.
For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I
can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about
3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find
out how fast 5th will go.
The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a
'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift.
My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints
because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on
to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a
totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent
body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for
33's.
Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think
the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push
the suspension envelope.
I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's
what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE
and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I
like mine the way it is.
Mike
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 15, 3:26 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Tracie wrote:
> > On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> Tracie wrote:
> >>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6
> >>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end
> >>> sucking! : O
> >> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2
> >> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours
> >> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power
> >> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition.
>
> >>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still
> >>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too
> >>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be
> >>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud
> >>> and light trail riding.
> >> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these
> >> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears.
>
> >> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so
> >> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power
> >> at speed so you need to use a lower gear.
>
> >> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely.
>
> >> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the
> >> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs
> >> from mud. You do have 4 low though.
>
> >> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they
> >> have very little traction, they float and just spin out.
>
> >> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on,
> >> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies.
> >> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get
> >> hung up on stumps and stuff still.
>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> > So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the
> > higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to
> > remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with
> > the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and
> > tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills
> > that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads.
>
> > As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO
> > body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE?
> > Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body
> > lift?
>
> The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get
> up to shifting rpm.
>
> For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I
> can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about
> 3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find
> out how fast 5th will go.
>
> The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a
> 'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift.
>
> My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints
> because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on
> to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a
> totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent
> body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for
> 33's.
>
> Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think
> the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push
> the suspension envelope.
>
> I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's
> what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE
> and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I
> like mine the way it is.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
That's EXACTLY what I am leaning on.....just wanted your opinion
though too. I am ordering the Rubicon Express standard 3.5 inch
suspension lift. I spoke directly with their representatives, and
according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and
SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit. If
I were to purchase their 4 inch suspension lift, they told me I would
definitely have to replace those. I am also going to take your advice
and put a 1 inch body lift on for better tire clearance. I do not
want to go any bigger than 33s. And definitely no wider than 12.5. I
am actually contemplating going with 10.5 or 11.5 inches.
THANKS for the info.
> Tracie wrote:
> > On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> Tracie wrote:
> >>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6
> >>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end
> >>> sucking! : O
> >> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2
> >> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours
> >> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power
> >> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition.
>
> >>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still
> >>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too
> >>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be
> >>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud
> >>> and light trail riding.
> >> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these
> >> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears.
>
> >> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so
> >> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power
> >> at speed so you need to use a lower gear.
>
> >> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely.
>
> >> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the
> >> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs
> >> from mud. You do have 4 low though.
>
> >> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they
> >> have very little traction, they float and just spin out.
>
> >> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on,
> >> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies.
> >> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get
> >> hung up on stumps and stuff still.
>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> > So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the
> > higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to
> > remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with
> > the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and
> > tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills
> > that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads.
>
> > As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO
> > body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE?
> > Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body
> > lift?
>
> The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get
> up to shifting rpm.
>
> For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I
> can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about
> 3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find
> out how fast 5th will go.
>
> The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a
> 'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift.
>
> My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints
> because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on
> to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a
> totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent
> body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for
> 33's.
>
> Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think
> the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push
> the suspension envelope.
>
> I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's
> what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE
> and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I
> like mine the way it is.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
That's EXACTLY what I am leaning on.....just wanted your opinion
though too. I am ordering the Rubicon Express standard 3.5 inch
suspension lift. I spoke directly with their representatives, and
according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and
SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit. If
I were to purchase their 4 inch suspension lift, they told me I would
definitely have to replace those. I am also going to take your advice
and put a 1 inch body lift on for better tire clearance. I do not
want to go any bigger than 33s. And definitely no wider than 12.5. I
am actually contemplating going with 10.5 or 11.5 inches.
THANKS for the info.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 15, 3:26 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Tracie wrote:
> > On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> Tracie wrote:
> >>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6
> >>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end
> >>> sucking! : O
> >> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2
> >> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours
> >> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power
> >> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition.
>
> >>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still
> >>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too
> >>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be
> >>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud
> >>> and light trail riding.
> >> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these
> >> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears.
>
> >> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so
> >> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power
> >> at speed so you need to use a lower gear.
>
> >> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely.
>
> >> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the
> >> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs
> >> from mud. You do have 4 low though.
>
> >> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they
> >> have very little traction, they float and just spin out.
>
> >> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on,
> >> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies.
> >> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get
> >> hung up on stumps and stuff still.
>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> > So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the
> > higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to
> > remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with
> > the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and
> > tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills
> > that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads.
>
> > As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO
> > body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE?
> > Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body
> > lift?
>
> The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get
> up to shifting rpm.
>
> For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I
> can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about
> 3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find
> out how fast 5th will go.
>
> The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a
> 'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift.
>
> My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints
> because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on
> to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a
> totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent
> body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for
> 33's.
>
> Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think
> the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push
> the suspension envelope.
>
> I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's
> what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE
> and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I
> like mine the way it is.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
That's EXACTLY what I am leaning on.....just wanted your opinion
though too. I am ordering the Rubicon Express standard 3.5 inch
suspension lift. I spoke directly with their representatives, and
according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and
SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit. If
I were to purchase their 4 inch suspension lift, they told me I would
definitely have to replace those. I am also going to take your advice
and put a 1 inch body lift on for better tire clearance. I do not
want to go any bigger than 33s. And definitely no wider than 12.5. I
am actually contemplating going with 10.5 or 11.5 inches.
THANKS for the info.
> Tracie wrote:
> > On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> Tracie wrote:
> >>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6
> >>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end
> >>> sucking! : O
> >> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2
> >> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours
> >> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power
> >> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition.
>
> >>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still
> >>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too
> >>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be
> >>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud
> >>> and light trail riding.
> >> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these
> >> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears.
>
> >> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so
> >> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power
> >> at speed so you need to use a lower gear.
>
> >> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely.
>
> >> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the
> >> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs
> >> from mud. You do have 4 low though.
>
> >> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they
> >> have very little traction, they float and just spin out.
>
> >> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on,
> >> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies.
> >> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get
> >> hung up on stumps and stuff still.
>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> > So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the
> > higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to
> > remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with
> > the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and
> > tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills
> > that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads.
>
> > As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO
> > body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE?
> > Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body
> > lift?
>
> The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get
> up to shifting rpm.
>
> For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I
> can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about
> 3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find
> out how fast 5th will go.
>
> The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a
> 'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift.
>
> My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints
> because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on
> to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a
> totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent
> body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for
> 33's.
>
> Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think
> the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push
> the suspension envelope.
>
> I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's
> what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE
> and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I
> like mine the way it is.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
That's EXACTLY what I am leaning on.....just wanted your opinion
though too. I am ordering the Rubicon Express standard 3.5 inch
suspension lift. I spoke directly with their representatives, and
according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and
SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit. If
I were to purchase their 4 inch suspension lift, they told me I would
definitely have to replace those. I am also going to take your advice
and put a 1 inch body lift on for better tire clearance. I do not
want to go any bigger than 33s. And definitely no wider than 12.5. I
am actually contemplating going with 10.5 or 11.5 inches.
THANKS for the info.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 15, 3:26 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Tracie wrote:
> > On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> Tracie wrote:
> >>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6
> >>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end
> >>> sucking! : O
> >> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2
> >> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours
> >> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power
> >> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition.
>
> >>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still
> >>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too
> >>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be
> >>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud
> >>> and light trail riding.
> >> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these
> >> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears.
>
> >> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so
> >> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power
> >> at speed so you need to use a lower gear.
>
> >> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely.
>
> >> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the
> >> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs
> >> from mud. You do have 4 low though.
>
> >> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they
> >> have very little traction, they float and just spin out.
>
> >> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on,
> >> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies.
> >> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get
> >> hung up on stumps and stuff still.
>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> > So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the
> > higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to
> > remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with
> > the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and
> > tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills
> > that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads.
>
> > As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO
> > body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE?
> > Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body
> > lift?
>
> The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get
> up to shifting rpm.
>
> For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I
> can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about
> 3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find
> out how fast 5th will go.
>
> The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a
> 'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift.
>
> My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints
> because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on
> to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a
> totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent
> body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for
> 33's.
>
> Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think
> the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push
> the suspension envelope.
>
> I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's
> what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE
> and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I
> like mine the way it is.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
That's EXACTLY what I am leaning on.....just wanted your opinion
though too. I am ordering the Rubicon Express standard 3.5 inch
suspension lift. I spoke directly with their representatives, and
according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and
SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit. If
I were to purchase their 4 inch suspension lift, they told me I would
definitely have to replace those. I am also going to take your advice
and put a 1 inch body lift on for better tire clearance. I do not
want to go any bigger than 33s. And definitely no wider than 12.5. I
am actually contemplating going with 10.5 or 11.5 inches.
THANKS for the info.
> Tracie wrote:
> > On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> Tracie wrote:
> >>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6
> >>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end
> >>> sucking! : O
> >> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2
> >> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours
> >> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power
> >> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition.
>
> >>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still
> >>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too
> >>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be
> >>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud
> >>> and light trail riding.
> >> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these
> >> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears.
>
> >> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so
> >> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power
> >> at speed so you need to use a lower gear.
>
> >> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely.
>
> >> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the
> >> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs
> >> from mud. You do have 4 low though.
>
> >> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they
> >> have very little traction, they float and just spin out.
>
> >> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on,
> >> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies.
> >> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get
> >> hung up on stumps and stuff still.
>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> > So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the
> > higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to
> > remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with
> > the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and
> > tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills
> > that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads.
>
> > As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO
> > body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE?
> > Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body
> > lift?
>
> The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get
> up to shifting rpm.
>
> For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I
> can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about
> 3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find
> out how fast 5th will go.
>
> The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a
> 'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift.
>
> My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints
> because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on
> to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a
> totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent
> body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for
> 33's.
>
> Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think
> the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push
> the suspension envelope.
>
> I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's
> what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE
> and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I
> like mine the way it is.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
That's EXACTLY what I am leaning on.....just wanted your opinion
though too. I am ordering the Rubicon Express standard 3.5 inch
suspension lift. I spoke directly with their representatives, and
according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and
SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit. If
I were to purchase their 4 inch suspension lift, they told me I would
definitely have to replace those. I am also going to take your advice
and put a 1 inch body lift on for better tire clearance. I do not
want to go any bigger than 33s. And definitely no wider than 12.5. I
am actually contemplating going with 10.5 or 11.5 inches.
THANKS for the info.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
On Aug 15, 3:26 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Tracie wrote:
> > On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> Tracie wrote:
> >>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6
> >>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end
> >>> sucking! : O
> >> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2
> >> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours
> >> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power
> >> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition.
>
> >>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still
> >>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too
> >>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be
> >>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud
> >>> and light trail riding.
> >> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these
> >> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears.
>
> >> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so
> >> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power
> >> at speed so you need to use a lower gear.
>
> >> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely.
>
> >> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the
> >> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs
> >> from mud. You do have 4 low though.
>
> >> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they
> >> have very little traction, they float and just spin out.
>
> >> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on,
> >> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies.
> >> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get
> >> hung up on stumps and stuff still.
>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> > So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the
> > higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to
> > remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with
> > the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and
> > tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills
> > that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads.
>
> > As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO
> > body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE?
> > Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body
> > lift?
>
> The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get
> up to shifting rpm.
>
> For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I
> can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about
> 3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find
> out how fast 5th will go.
>
> The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a
> 'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift.
>
> My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints
> because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on
> to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a
> totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent
> body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for
> 33's.
>
> Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think
> the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push
> the suspension envelope.
>
> I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's
> what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE
> and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I
> like mine the way it is.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
That's EXACTLY what I am leaning on.....just wanted your opinion
though too. I am ordering the Rubicon Express standard 3.5 inch
suspension lift. I spoke directly with their representatives, and
according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and
SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit. If
I were to purchase their 4 inch suspension lift, they told me I would
definitely have to replace those. I am also going to take your advice
and put a 1 inch body lift on for better tire clearance. I do not
want to go any bigger than 33s. And definitely no wider than 12.5. I
am actually contemplating going with 10.5 or 11.5 inches.
THANKS for the info.
> Tracie wrote:
> > On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> Tracie wrote:
> >>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6
> >>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end
> >>> sucking! : O
> >> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2
> >> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours
> >> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power
> >> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition.
>
> >>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still
> >>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too
> >>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be
> >>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud
> >>> and light trail riding.
> >> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these
> >> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears.
>
> >> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so
> >> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power
> >> at speed so you need to use a lower gear.
>
> >> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely.
>
> >> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the
> >> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs
> >> from mud. You do have 4 low though.
>
> >> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they
> >> have very little traction, they float and just spin out.
>
> >> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on,
> >> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies.
> >> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get
> >> hung up on stumps and stuff still.
>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> > So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the
> > higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to
> > remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with
> > the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and
> > tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills
> > that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads.
>
> > As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO
> > body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE?
> > Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body
> > lift?
>
> The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get
> up to shifting rpm.
>
> For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I
> can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about
> 3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find
> out how fast 5th will go.
>
> The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a
> 'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift.
>
> My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints
> because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on
> to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a
> totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent
> body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for
> 33's.
>
> Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think
> the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push
> the suspension envelope.
>
> I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's
> what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE
> and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I
> like mine the way it is.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
That's EXACTLY what I am leaning on.....just wanted your opinion
though too. I am ordering the Rubicon Express standard 3.5 inch
suspension lift. I spoke directly with their representatives, and
according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and
SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit. If
I were to purchase their 4 inch suspension lift, they told me I would
definitely have to replace those. I am also going to take your advice
and put a 1 inch body lift on for better tire clearance. I do not
want to go any bigger than 33s. And definitely no wider than 12.5. I
am actually contemplating going with 10.5 or 11.5 inches.
THANKS for the info.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
I spoke directly with their representatives, and
> according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and
> SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit.
Cool!
If you go with the body lift, you can leave the t-case skid plate up
high and just raise the engine mounts to get the driveshaft angles the
same. This keeps your clearance way up there.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
I spoke directly with their representatives, and
> according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and
> SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit.
Cool!
If you go with the body lift, you can leave the t-case skid plate up
high and just raise the engine mounts to get the driveshaft angles the
same. This keeps your clearance way up there.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
I spoke directly with their representatives, and
> according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and
> SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit.
Cool!
If you go with the body lift, you can leave the t-case skid plate up
high and just raise the engine mounts to get the driveshaft angles the
same. This keeps your clearance way up there.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
I spoke directly with their representatives, and
> according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and
> SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit.
Cool!
If you go with the body lift, you can leave the t-case skid plate up
high and just raise the engine mounts to get the driveshaft angles the
same. This keeps your clearance way up there.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X
Tracie wrote:
I spoke directly with their representatives, and
> according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and
> SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit.
Cool!
If you go with the body lift, you can leave the t-case skid plate up
high and just raise the engine mounts to get the driveshaft angles the
same. This keeps your clearance way up there.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
I spoke directly with their representatives, and
> according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and
> SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit.
Cool!
If you go with the body lift, you can leave the t-case skid plate up
high and just raise the engine mounts to get the driveshaft angles the
same. This keeps your clearance way up there.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)