twaldron

Tracie wrote:

> On Aug 16, 9:07 pm, twaldron <d...@hairsproutingbunions.com> wrote:
>
>>Tracie wrote:
>>
>>>On Aug 16, 2:58 am, Garth Almgren <nos...@mukyj.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Twaldron --
>>>I appreciate your advice, and it is mostly true (I do agree with much
>>>of what you're saying). However, I would like to avoid the expense of
>>>a new CV driveshaft/SYE kit if I can get the same amount of lift using
>>>other combinations of suspension or body lifts and still be able to
>>>avoid the vibes. As for the gearing, I do agree. Down the road, I am
>>>going to change the gearing to at least 4.11 as you mentioned. As far
>>>as 33s being miserable with the gearing that I currently have, would
>>>32s make any significant difference as far as the higher gears being
>>>tall?
>>
>>I do understand what you are trying to accomplish...not the way I'd do
>>it, but I do understand. Yes, 32s would help. Too, be afraid of a shop
>>that would install a 3" body lift. OMG! Don't do that!
>>
>>As far as your 2" spacer vs 2" spring lift question...if you can afford
>>the spring lift, go with that. If not, spacers will be fine for your use.
>>
>>Good luck and let us know how it goes.
>>
>>tw
>
>
> Forgot to mention....the 3 inch spacer lift is a combo of 4 - 2"
> spacers and 4 - 1" spacers. Is it safe to stack the spacers like
> this? As previously mentioned, I do not do any extreme off roading at
> all. 90-95% of my driving is highway. Both the 2 inch and the 3 inch
> coil spacer kits come with extended bump stops and new shocks.
>

DO NOT STACK THE SPACERS!!

tw

twaldron

Tracie wrote:
>
> OK.....just got off the phone with a major dealership here and was
> told that I may not need to upgrade to the 4.11 gears. They mentioned
> something about re-gearing the pinion factor thru the jeep's
> computer. Anyone heard of this? If so, is it effective?
>


Heheh! Ok, run from this dealership service advisor..in fact, report
him! Or better yet, just shoot him in the head! Dang! :)

tw

twaldron

Tracie wrote:
>
> OK.....just got off the phone with a major dealership here and was
> told that I may not need to upgrade to the 4.11 gears. They mentioned
> something about re-gearing the pinion factor thru the jeep's
> computer. Anyone heard of this? If so, is it effective?
>


Heheh! Ok, run from this dealership service advisor..in fact, report
him! Or better yet, just shoot him in the head! Dang! :)

tw

twaldron

Tracie wrote:
>
> OK.....just got off the phone with a major dealership here and was
> told that I may not need to upgrade to the 4.11 gears. They mentioned
> something about re-gearing the pinion factor thru the jeep's
> computer. Anyone heard of this? If so, is it effective?
>


Heheh! Ok, run from this dealership service advisor..in fact, report
him! Or better yet, just shoot him in the head! Dang! :)

tw

twaldron

Tracie wrote:
>
> OK.....just got off the phone with a major dealership here and was
> told that I may not need to upgrade to the 4.11 gears. They mentioned
> something about re-gearing the pinion factor thru the jeep's
> computer. Anyone heard of this? If so, is it effective?
>


Heheh! Ok, run from this dealership service advisor..in fact, report
him! Or better yet, just shoot him in the head! Dang! :)

tw

twaldron

Tracie wrote:

> Twaldron -- HELP
>
> Since you mentioned this......
> What exactly are ALL the parts that I need to do the 3.07 to 4.56 gear
> conversion? I have come up with needing a 3.73 carrier for the 4.56
> gears and Dana 30 Ring and Pinion gears. Again, I have the D30 in
> front and D35 in rear. What else do I need?
>
> P.S. You might just win this discussion yet! LMAO
>


I don't want to win anything. We just hang out to help each other. :)

This is a serious build and requires a shop that specializes in
axle/differential rebuilds, not just some general mechanic's shop. It's
not brain surgery, but don't just take it to any grease monkey. It will
also cost some serious coin. I would let the shop handle the parts so
you will get a full warranty on the work. You unfortunately have chosen
a Jeep that wasn't ideal as a lift candidate in relation to its axles.
If I was in your shoes, I'd consider finding some new Rubi axles from an
owner that upgraded it.

tw

twaldron

Tracie wrote:

> Twaldron -- HELP
>
> Since you mentioned this......
> What exactly are ALL the parts that I need to do the 3.07 to 4.56 gear
> conversion? I have come up with needing a 3.73 carrier for the 4.56
> gears and Dana 30 Ring and Pinion gears. Again, I have the D30 in
> front and D35 in rear. What else do I need?
>
> P.S. You might just win this discussion yet! LMAO
>


I don't want to win anything. We just hang out to help each other. :)

This is a serious build and requires a shop that specializes in
axle/differential rebuilds, not just some general mechanic's shop. It's
not brain surgery, but don't just take it to any grease monkey. It will
also cost some serious coin. I would let the shop handle the parts so
you will get a full warranty on the work. You unfortunately have chosen
a Jeep that wasn't ideal as a lift candidate in relation to its axles.
If I was in your shoes, I'd consider finding some new Rubi axles from an
owner that upgraded it.

tw

twaldron

Tracie wrote:

> Twaldron -- HELP
>
> Since you mentioned this......
> What exactly are ALL the parts that I need to do the 3.07 to 4.56 gear
> conversion? I have come up with needing a 3.73 carrier for the 4.56
> gears and Dana 30 Ring and Pinion gears. Again, I have the D30 in
> front and D35 in rear. What else do I need?
>
> P.S. You might just win this discussion yet! LMAO
>


I don't want to win anything. We just hang out to help each other. :)

This is a serious build and requires a shop that specializes in
axle/differential rebuilds, not just some general mechanic's shop. It's
not brain surgery, but don't just take it to any grease monkey. It will
also cost some serious coin. I would let the shop handle the parts so
you will get a full warranty on the work. You unfortunately have chosen
a Jeep that wasn't ideal as a lift candidate in relation to its axles.
If I was in your shoes, I'd consider finding some new Rubi axles from an
owner that upgraded it.

tw

twaldron

Tracie wrote:

> Twaldron -- HELP
>
> Since you mentioned this......
> What exactly are ALL the parts that I need to do the 3.07 to 4.56 gear
> conversion? I have come up with needing a 3.73 carrier for the 4.56
> gears and Dana 30 Ring and Pinion gears. Again, I have the D30 in
> front and D35 in rear. What else do I need?
>
> P.S. You might just win this discussion yet! LMAO
>


I don't want to win anything. We just hang out to help each other. :)

This is a serious build and requires a shop that specializes in
axle/differential rebuilds, not just some general mechanic's shop. It's
not brain surgery, but don't just take it to any grease monkey. It will
also cost some serious coin. I would let the shop handle the parts so
you will get a full warranty on the work. You unfortunately have chosen
a Jeep that wasn't ideal as a lift candidate in relation to its axles.
If I was in your shoes, I'd consider finding some new Rubi axles from an
owner that upgraded it.

tw

Bill Spiliotopoulos

> 2.) With the 2" spacer lift, would I have to drop the t-case or do
> any other mods besides slapping it on?

Yes.

You have to turn the rear axle forward, so that the pinion axis is almost
parallel (a bit lower) to the transfer case output shaft. Or drop the
transfer case 1/2 inch. Turning the rear axle forward will cost more if you
have a shop do it for you (requires either adjustable lower arms, or
elongating the upper arms rear mounting holes and installing an eccentric
washer to set the pinion angle). You may not be sensitive enough to feel the
vibes, but even with 1 inch lift, the pinion angle gets misaligned,
increasing mechanical noise and u-joint wear.

You also MUST rotate the front axle towards the rear to make the pinion axis
parallel with the front driveshaft.
This will restore the caster angle to factory specification, which is very
important to limit the occurence of death wobble. The toe-in on the front
axle must be set after the pinion angle is set for the front axle.

The 2" spacer lift and 31" M/T tire combination is a very good combination.
If you disconnect the front sway-bar the off-road capability of your rig
will be dramatically increased compared to what it is right now. With the
say-bar connected, your on-road behavior will not be much affected.
This is a picture of a 2006 TJ with 2" spacer lift and 235R15 tires with the
swaay-bar disconnected.
http://alma-tech.com/tmp/tj_flex.jpg

But you must find a shop that is willing to deal with all the "minor"
details required to make the car run comfortable and safe as it was prior to
the lift (fine tune the pinion angles).

Bill Spiliotopoulos,
'96 XJ
'06 TJ.