"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:nW8yc.690001$Pk3.104357@pd7tw1no...
> It's not a matter of still being soft, it has more to do with the
"skinning"
> effect and surface drying and disturbing the bond that's going on at the
> surfaces.
> As to your other question about aerosol adhesives, I don't like them
either.
> The best system I've seen for holding the gaskets in place is the plastic
> retainers that thread into the pan bolt holes at the four corners. They
are
> split plastic studs that ------ at the inward end. Slide the gasket over
> them and it sort of snaps in place. Slide the pan over them, start a few
> bolts then use a screwdriver and remove the studs. They come with the pan
> gaskets from some of the manufacturers. The one I used them on was a 300
cu
> in ford truck and the gasket was from Fel-Pro I think.

The factory manual recommends you make 6 slotted head studs out of bolts to
install in the bolt holes around the sides of the pan. You slip the gasket
over 'em and they hold it in place until you slip on the pan. These seemed
like PITA to make, so I went to the hardware store and got 6 sloted head
studs of the right size, worked like charm.

 

Well I might have got lucky :)
I topped it up with oil today and went for a 1 hour drive around
town.... no one drop of oil has leaked out. Should be good for a few
months now I hope. :)

Thanks for all the suggestions (everyone)

On Fri, 11 Jun 2004 02:38:11 GMT, "Steve G"
<NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:

>It's not a matter of still being soft, it has more to do with the "skinning"
>effect and surface drying and disturbing the bond that's going on at the
>surfaces.
>As to your other question about aerosol adhesives, I don't like them either.
>The best system I've seen for holding the gaskets in place is the plastic
>retainers that thread into the pan bolt holes at the four corners. They are
>split plastic studs that ------ at the inward end. Slide the gasket over
>them and it sort of snaps in place. Slide the pan over them, start a few
>bolts then use a screwdriver and remove the studs. They come with the pan
>gaskets from some of the manufacturers. The one I used them on was a 300 cu
>in ford truck and the gasket was from Fel-Pro I think.
>Steve g.
>"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
>news:gqhhc0l04ohe3dllk9hk58275ovt7gk4im@4ax.com.. .
>> Later was about 1/2 hour after I tourqed it to 8 foot punds. I
>> originally thought I had the tourque wrench set to 120 inch pounds (10
>> ft lb's) but noticed that I had messed up. I imagine the silicone was
>> still quite soft and should be fine.
>>
>> On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 09:56:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >You 'really' don't want to go and break the new glue seal!!!!
>> >
>> >Once you tighten the bolts, you can't breath on it until it cures.
>> >
>> >If you turn the bolts again, you will just tear open the fresh seal and
>> >it will leak like a sieve.
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >
>> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I cleaned the pan and the block and used a brass brush to polish it
>> >> up, I ran out of blue RTV so I went with the black on the seal tabs
>> >> and both sides of the pan gaskets I also put some on the outer edge of
>> >> the bearing retainer. I was amazed when I lifted the pan in place and
>> >> every hole lined up perfectly, I tourqued it to 8 foot pounds 1/2 hour
>> >> ago and I will go back around it later and put it to 10 foot pounds. (
>> >> no oil will go in this vehicle until tomorrow ....thanks)
>> >>
>> >> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 14:20:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >On the ones I do, I use the soap and oil on the seal and have had good
>> >> >luck with them. The tabs or end wings on the seal also have to have
>RTV
>> >> >on both sides of them. The cap needs it out at the edges on the
>angled
>> >> >part
>> >> >
>> >> >The trick is to get the pan and block super clean. Acetone works well
>> >> >or brake cleaner for this. One fingerprint and the buggers will leak.
>> >> >
>> >> >If using the cork, I use a thin skim of RTV silicone on both sides. I
>> >> >think I even did that on my one piece I have in there now. No leaks
>> >> >anyway. :-)
>> >> >
>> >> >looking at your pan, I recommend RTV no matter what gasket. It fills
>in
>> >> >the dents.
>> >> >
>> >> >Then one big one a lot of folks forget is that RTV takes 24 hours to
>> >> >cure. If you put oil in it or start it up before then, it likely will
>> >> >leak.
>> >> >
>> >> >Mike
>> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> >
>> >> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I did the valve cover last week to rule out the easy fix....now I'm
>> >> >> in new territory doing the real seal and oil pan. :)
>> >> >>
>> >> >> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 10:09:59 -0400, Mike Romain
><romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> >> >> wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> >If you follow the directions, you will get it.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >I prefer the one piece pan gasket.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Then when you have it all back together and it still leaks out on
>the
>> >> >> >ground, go up top and fix the leaky valve cover....
>> >> >> >;-)
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Mike
>> >> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> (87 YJ 258)
>> >> >> >> I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to
>tackle
>> >> >> >> the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses
>and
>> >> >> >> realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru
>from
>> >> >> >> the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting
>the
>> >> >> >> pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the
>bearing
>> >> >> >> retainer.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
>> >> >> >> http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
>> >> >> >> It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the
>clearance
>> >> >> >> between the bearing and the cap.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should
>I
>> >> >> >> appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply
>liquid
>> >> >> >> soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> Thanks in advance.
>>
>

 

Well I might have got lucky :)
I topped it up with oil today and went for a 1 hour drive around
town.... no one drop of oil has leaked out. Should be good for a few
months now I hope. :)

Thanks for all the suggestions (everyone)

On Fri, 11 Jun 2004 02:38:11 GMT, "Steve G"
<NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:

>It's not a matter of still being soft, it has more to do with the "skinning"
>effect and surface drying and disturbing the bond that's going on at the
>surfaces.
>As to your other question about aerosol adhesives, I don't like them either.
>The best system I've seen for holding the gaskets in place is the plastic
>retainers that thread into the pan bolt holes at the four corners. They are
>split plastic studs that ------ at the inward end. Slide the gasket over
>them and it sort of snaps in place. Slide the pan over them, start a few
>bolts then use a screwdriver and remove the studs. They come with the pan
>gaskets from some of the manufacturers. The one I used them on was a 300 cu
>in ford truck and the gasket was from Fel-Pro I think.
>Steve g.
>"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
>news:gqhhc0l04ohe3dllk9hk58275ovt7gk4im@4ax.com.. .
>> Later was about 1/2 hour after I tourqed it to 8 foot punds. I
>> originally thought I had the tourque wrench set to 120 inch pounds (10
>> ft lb's) but noticed that I had messed up. I imagine the silicone was
>> still quite soft and should be fine.
>>
>> On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 09:56:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >You 'really' don't want to go and break the new glue seal!!!!
>> >
>> >Once you tighten the bolts, you can't breath on it until it cures.
>> >
>> >If you turn the bolts again, you will just tear open the fresh seal and
>> >it will leak like a sieve.
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >
>> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I cleaned the pan and the block and used a brass brush to polish it
>> >> up, I ran out of blue RTV so I went with the black on the seal tabs
>> >> and both sides of the pan gaskets I also put some on the outer edge of
>> >> the bearing retainer. I was amazed when I lifted the pan in place and
>> >> every hole lined up perfectly, I tourqued it to 8 foot pounds 1/2 hour
>> >> ago and I will go back around it later and put it to 10 foot pounds. (
>> >> no oil will go in this vehicle until tomorrow ....thanks)
>> >>
>> >> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 14:20:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >On the ones I do, I use the soap and oil on the seal and have had good
>> >> >luck with them. The tabs or end wings on the seal also have to have
>RTV
>> >> >on both sides of them. The cap needs it out at the edges on the
>angled
>> >> >part
>> >> >
>> >> >The trick is to get the pan and block super clean. Acetone works well
>> >> >or brake cleaner for this. One fingerprint and the buggers will leak.
>> >> >
>> >> >If using the cork, I use a thin skim of RTV silicone on both sides. I
>> >> >think I even did that on my one piece I have in there now. No leaks
>> >> >anyway. :-)
>> >> >
>> >> >looking at your pan, I recommend RTV no matter what gasket. It fills
>in
>> >> >the dents.
>> >> >
>> >> >Then one big one a lot of folks forget is that RTV takes 24 hours to
>> >> >cure. If you put oil in it or start it up before then, it likely will
>> >> >leak.
>> >> >
>> >> >Mike
>> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> >
>> >> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I did the valve cover last week to rule out the easy fix....now I'm
>> >> >> in new territory doing the real seal and oil pan. :)
>> >> >>
>> >> >> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 10:09:59 -0400, Mike Romain
><romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> >> >> wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> >If you follow the directions, you will get it.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >I prefer the one piece pan gasket.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Then when you have it all back together and it still leaks out on
>the
>> >> >> >ground, go up top and fix the leaky valve cover....
>> >> >> >;-)
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Mike
>> >> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> (87 YJ 258)
>> >> >> >> I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to
>tackle
>> >> >> >> the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses
>and
>> >> >> >> realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru
>from
>> >> >> >> the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting
>the
>> >> >> >> pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the
>bearing
>> >> >> >> retainer.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
>> >> >> >> http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
>> >> >> >> It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the
>clearance
>> >> >> >> between the bearing and the cap.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should
>I
>> >> >> >> appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply
>liquid
>> >> >> >> soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> Thanks in advance.
>>
>

 

Well I might have got lucky :)
I topped it up with oil today and went for a 1 hour drive around
town.... no one drop of oil has leaked out. Should be good for a few
months now I hope. :)

Thanks for all the suggestions (everyone)

On Fri, 11 Jun 2004 02:38:11 GMT, "Steve G"
<NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:

>It's not a matter of still being soft, it has more to do with the "skinning"
>effect and surface drying and disturbing the bond that's going on at the
>surfaces.
>As to your other question about aerosol adhesives, I don't like them either.
>The best system I've seen for holding the gaskets in place is the plastic
>retainers that thread into the pan bolt holes at the four corners. They are
>split plastic studs that ------ at the inward end. Slide the gasket over
>them and it sort of snaps in place. Slide the pan over them, start a few
>bolts then use a screwdriver and remove the studs. They come with the pan
>gaskets from some of the manufacturers. The one I used them on was a 300 cu
>in ford truck and the gasket was from Fel-Pro I think.
>Steve g.
>"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
>news:gqhhc0l04ohe3dllk9hk58275ovt7gk4im@4ax.com.. .
>> Later was about 1/2 hour after I tourqed it to 8 foot punds. I
>> originally thought I had the tourque wrench set to 120 inch pounds (10
>> ft lb's) but noticed that I had messed up. I imagine the silicone was
>> still quite soft and should be fine.
>>
>> On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 09:56:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >You 'really' don't want to go and break the new glue seal!!!!
>> >
>> >Once you tighten the bolts, you can't breath on it until it cures.
>> >
>> >If you turn the bolts again, you will just tear open the fresh seal and
>> >it will leak like a sieve.
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >
>> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I cleaned the pan and the block and used a brass brush to polish it
>> >> up, I ran out of blue RTV so I went with the black on the seal tabs
>> >> and both sides of the pan gaskets I also put some on the outer edge of
>> >> the bearing retainer. I was amazed when I lifted the pan in place and
>> >> every hole lined up perfectly, I tourqued it to 8 foot pounds 1/2 hour
>> >> ago and I will go back around it later and put it to 10 foot pounds. (
>> >> no oil will go in this vehicle until tomorrow ....thanks)
>> >>
>> >> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 14:20:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >On the ones I do, I use the soap and oil on the seal and have had good
>> >> >luck with them. The tabs or end wings on the seal also have to have
>RTV
>> >> >on both sides of them. The cap needs it out at the edges on the
>angled
>> >> >part
>> >> >
>> >> >The trick is to get the pan and block super clean. Acetone works well
>> >> >or brake cleaner for this. One fingerprint and the buggers will leak.
>> >> >
>> >> >If using the cork, I use a thin skim of RTV silicone on both sides. I
>> >> >think I even did that on my one piece I have in there now. No leaks
>> >> >anyway. :-)
>> >> >
>> >> >looking at your pan, I recommend RTV no matter what gasket. It fills
>in
>> >> >the dents.
>> >> >
>> >> >Then one big one a lot of folks forget is that RTV takes 24 hours to
>> >> >cure. If you put oil in it or start it up before then, it likely will
>> >> >leak.
>> >> >
>> >> >Mike
>> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> >
>> >> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I did the valve cover last week to rule out the easy fix....now I'm
>> >> >> in new territory doing the real seal and oil pan. :)
>> >> >>
>> >> >> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 10:09:59 -0400, Mike Romain
><romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> >> >> wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> >If you follow the directions, you will get it.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >I prefer the one piece pan gasket.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Then when you have it all back together and it still leaks out on
>the
>> >> >> >ground, go up top and fix the leaky valve cover....
>> >> >> >;-)
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Mike
>> >> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> (87 YJ 258)
>> >> >> >> I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to
>tackle
>> >> >> >> the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses
>and
>> >> >> >> realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru
>from
>> >> >> >> the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting
>the
>> >> >> >> pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the
>bearing
>> >> >> >> retainer.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
>> >> >> >> http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
>> >> >> >> It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the
>clearance
>> >> >> >> between the bearing and the cap.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should
>I
>> >> >> >> appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply
>liquid
>> >> >> >> soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> Thanks in advance.
>>
>

 

Well I might have got lucky :)
I topped it up with oil today and went for a 1 hour drive around
town.... no one drop of oil has leaked out. Should be good for a few
months now I hope. :)

Thanks for all the suggestions (everyone)

On Fri, 11 Jun 2004 02:38:11 GMT, "Steve G"
<NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:

>It's not a matter of still being soft, it has more to do with the "skinning"
>effect and surface drying and disturbing the bond that's going on at the
>surfaces.
>As to your other question about aerosol adhesives, I don't like them either.
>The best system I've seen for holding the gaskets in place is the plastic
>retainers that thread into the pan bolt holes at the four corners. They are
>split plastic studs that ------ at the inward end. Slide the gasket over
>them and it sort of snaps in place. Slide the pan over them, start a few
>bolts then use a screwdriver and remove the studs. They come with the pan
>gaskets from some of the manufacturers. The one I used them on was a 300 cu
>in ford truck and the gasket was from Fel-Pro I think.
>Steve g.
>"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
>news:gqhhc0l04ohe3dllk9hk58275ovt7gk4im@4ax.com.. .
>> Later was about 1/2 hour after I tourqed it to 8 foot punds. I
>> originally thought I had the tourque wrench set to 120 inch pounds (10
>> ft lb's) but noticed that I had messed up. I imagine the silicone was
>> still quite soft and should be fine.
>>
>> On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 09:56:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >You 'really' don't want to go and break the new glue seal!!!!
>> >
>> >Once you tighten the bolts, you can't breath on it until it cures.
>> >
>> >If you turn the bolts again, you will just tear open the fresh seal and
>> >it will leak like a sieve.
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >
>> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I cleaned the pan and the block and used a brass brush to polish it
>> >> up, I ran out of blue RTV so I went with the black on the seal tabs
>> >> and both sides of the pan gaskets I also put some on the outer edge of
>> >> the bearing retainer. I was amazed when I lifted the pan in place and
>> >> every hole lined up perfectly, I tourqued it to 8 foot pounds 1/2 hour
>> >> ago and I will go back around it later and put it to 10 foot pounds. (
>> >> no oil will go in this vehicle until tomorrow ....thanks)
>> >>
>> >> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 14:20:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >On the ones I do, I use the soap and oil on the seal and have had good
>> >> >luck with them. The tabs or end wings on the seal also have to have
>RTV
>> >> >on both sides of them. The cap needs it out at the edges on the
>angled
>> >> >part
>> >> >
>> >> >The trick is to get the pan and block super clean. Acetone works well
>> >> >or brake cleaner for this. One fingerprint and the buggers will leak.
>> >> >
>> >> >If using the cork, I use a thin skim of RTV silicone on both sides. I
>> >> >think I even did that on my one piece I have in there now. No leaks
>> >> >anyway. :-)
>> >> >
>> >> >looking at your pan, I recommend RTV no matter what gasket. It fills
>in
>> >> >the dents.
>> >> >
>> >> >Then one big one a lot of folks forget is that RTV takes 24 hours to
>> >> >cure. If you put oil in it or start it up before then, it likely will
>> >> >leak.
>> >> >
>> >> >Mike
>> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> >
>> >> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I did the valve cover last week to rule out the easy fix....now I'm
>> >> >> in new territory doing the real seal and oil pan. :)
>> >> >>
>> >> >> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 10:09:59 -0400, Mike Romain
><romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> >> >> wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> >If you follow the directions, you will get it.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >I prefer the one piece pan gasket.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Then when you have it all back together and it still leaks out on
>the
>> >> >> >ground, go up top and fix the leaky valve cover....
>> >> >> >;-)
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Mike
>> >> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> (87 YJ 258)
>> >> >> >> I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to
>tackle
>> >> >> >> the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses
>and
>> >> >> >> realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru
>from
>> >> >> >> the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting
>the
>> >> >> >> pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the
>bearing
>> >> >> >> retainer.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
>> >> >> >> http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
>> >> >> >> It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the
>clearance
>> >> >> >> between the bearing and the cap.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should
>I
>> >> >> >> appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply
>liquid
>> >> >> >> soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> Thanks in advance.
>>
>

 

You can look at the edge of the clutch disc to see how much material is
remaining. Kind of like the way you might check the remaining material on
the brake shoes or pads.




"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.58.0406100854020.19300@panix2.pani x.com...
>
> Which brings me to something I've always wondered: When you take that
> inspection plate off, what can you inspect? There's not a lot mechanical,
> adjustable or inspectable going on on the forward side of the flywheel.
>
> Me, I'm thinking that is is a fancy way of saying "dust shield", but I
> could be wrong.
>
>
> On Wed, 9 Jun 2004, CRWLR wrote:
>
> > The inspection plate is a small plate made of sheet metal that is
between
> > the oil pan and the bottom portion of the bell housing. It should have 4
> > bolts to hold it on. It could be held by two bolts and two well-placed
ears,
> > but I think they used four bolts. The CJs get four bolts, I assume the
YJs
> > get treated the same.
> >
> >
> >
> > "Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> > news:b85dc0dcdof6liq2ofl7v2tb9m2crvt6rm@4ax.com...
> > > (87 YJ 258)
> > > I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to tackle
> > > the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses and
> > > realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
> > >
> > > I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
> > >
> > > 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
> > >
> > > I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru from
> > > the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting the
> > > pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
> > >
> > > 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the bearing
> > > retainer.
> > >
> > > Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
> > > http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
> > > It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the clearance
> > > between the bearing and the cap.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should I
> > > appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
> > >
> > > Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply liquid
> > > soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance.
> >
> >
> >

 

You can look at the edge of the clutch disc to see how much material is
remaining. Kind of like the way you might check the remaining material on
the brake shoes or pads.




"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.58.0406100854020.19300@panix2.pani x.com...
>
> Which brings me to something I've always wondered: When you take that
> inspection plate off, what can you inspect? There's not a lot mechanical,
> adjustable or inspectable going on on the forward side of the flywheel.
>
> Me, I'm thinking that is is a fancy way of saying "dust shield", but I
> could be wrong.
>
>
> On Wed, 9 Jun 2004, CRWLR wrote:
>
> > The inspection plate is a small plate made of sheet metal that is
between
> > the oil pan and the bottom portion of the bell housing. It should have 4
> > bolts to hold it on. It could be held by two bolts and two well-placed
ears,
> > but I think they used four bolts. The CJs get four bolts, I assume the
YJs
> > get treated the same.
> >
> >
> >
> > "Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> > news:b85dc0dcdof6liq2ofl7v2tb9m2crvt6rm@4ax.com...
> > > (87 YJ 258)
> > > I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to tackle
> > > the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses and
> > > realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
> > >
> > > I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
> > >
> > > 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
> > >
> > > I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru from
> > > the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting the
> > > pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
> > >
> > > 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the bearing
> > > retainer.
> > >
> > > Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
> > > http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
> > > It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the clearance
> > > between the bearing and the cap.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should I
> > > appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
> > >
> > > Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply liquid
> > > soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance.
> >
> >
> >

 

You can look at the edge of the clutch disc to see how much material is
remaining. Kind of like the way you might check the remaining material on
the brake shoes or pads.




"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.58.0406100854020.19300@panix2.pani x.com...
>
> Which brings me to something I've always wondered: When you take that
> inspection plate off, what can you inspect? There's not a lot mechanical,
> adjustable or inspectable going on on the forward side of the flywheel.
>
> Me, I'm thinking that is is a fancy way of saying "dust shield", but I
> could be wrong.
>
>
> On Wed, 9 Jun 2004, CRWLR wrote:
>
> > The inspection plate is a small plate made of sheet metal that is
between
> > the oil pan and the bottom portion of the bell housing. It should have 4
> > bolts to hold it on. It could be held by two bolts and two well-placed
ears,
> > but I think they used four bolts. The CJs get four bolts, I assume the
YJs
> > get treated the same.
> >
> >
> >
> > "Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> > news:b85dc0dcdof6liq2ofl7v2tb9m2crvt6rm@4ax.com...
> > > (87 YJ 258)
> > > I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to tackle
> > > the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses and
> > > realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
> > >
> > > I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
> > >
> > > 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
> > >
> > > I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru from
> > > the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting the
> > > pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
> > >
> > > 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the bearing
> > > retainer.
> > >
> > > Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
> > > http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
> > > It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the clearance
> > > between the bearing and the cap.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should I
> > > appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
> > >
> > > Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply liquid
> > > soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance.
> >
> >
> >

 

You can look at the edge of the clutch disc to see how much material is
remaining. Kind of like the way you might check the remaining material on
the brake shoes or pads.




"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.58.0406100854020.19300@panix2.pani x.com...
>
> Which brings me to something I've always wondered: When you take that
> inspection plate off, what can you inspect? There's not a lot mechanical,
> adjustable or inspectable going on on the forward side of the flywheel.
>
> Me, I'm thinking that is is a fancy way of saying "dust shield", but I
> could be wrong.
>
>
> On Wed, 9 Jun 2004, CRWLR wrote:
>
> > The inspection plate is a small plate made of sheet metal that is
between
> > the oil pan and the bottom portion of the bell housing. It should have 4
> > bolts to hold it on. It could be held by two bolts and two well-placed
ears,
> > but I think they used four bolts. The CJs get four bolts, I assume the
YJs
> > get treated the same.
> >
> >
> >
> > "Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> > news:b85dc0dcdof6liq2ofl7v2tb9m2crvt6rm@4ax.com...
> > > (87 YJ 258)
> > > I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to tackle
> > > the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses and
> > > realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
> > >
> > > I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
> > >
> > > 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
> > >
> > > I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru from
> > > the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting the
> > > pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
> > >
> > > 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the bearing
> > > retainer.
> > >
> > > Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
> > > http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
> > > It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the clearance
> > > between the bearing and the cap.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should I
> > > appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
> > >
> > > Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply liquid
> > > soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance.
> >
> >
> >