If you follow the directions, you will get it.

I prefer the one piece pan gasket.

Then when you have it all back together and it still leaks out on the
ground, go up top and fix the leaky valve cover....
;-)

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jeepster wrote:
>
> (87 YJ 258)
> I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to tackle
> the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses and
> realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
>
> I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
>
> 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
>
> I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru from
> the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting the
> pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
>
> 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the bearing
> retainer.
>
> Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
> http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
> It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the clearance
> between the bearing and the cap.
>
> 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should I
> appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
>
> Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply liquid
> soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
>
> Thanks in advance.

 

If you follow the directions, you will get it.

I prefer the one piece pan gasket.

Then when you have it all back together and it still leaks out on the
ground, go up top and fix the leaky valve cover....
;-)

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jeepster wrote:
>
> (87 YJ 258)
> I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to tackle
> the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses and
> realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
>
> I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
>
> 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
>
> I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru from
> the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting the
> pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
>
> 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the bearing
> retainer.
>
> Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
> http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
> It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the clearance
> between the bearing and the cap.
>
> 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should I
> appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
>
> Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply liquid
> soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
>
> Thanks in advance.

 

If you follow the directions, you will get it.

I prefer the one piece pan gasket.

Then when you have it all back together and it still leaks out on the
ground, go up top and fix the leaky valve cover....
;-)

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jeepster wrote:
>
> (87 YJ 258)
> I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to tackle
> the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses and
> realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
>
> I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
>
> 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
>
> I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru from
> the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting the
> pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
>
> 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the bearing
> retainer.
>
> Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
> http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
> It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the clearance
> between the bearing and the cap.
>
> 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should I
> appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
>
> Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply liquid
> soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
>
> Thanks in advance.

 

I did the valve cover last week to rule out the easy fix....now I'm
in new territory doing the real seal and oil pan. :)

On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 10:09:59 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>If you follow the directions, you will get it.
>
>I prefer the one piece pan gasket.
>
>Then when you have it all back together and it still leaks out on the
>ground, go up top and fix the leaky valve cover....
>;-)
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> (87 YJ 258)
>> I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to tackle
>> the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses and
>> realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
>>
>> I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
>>
>> 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
>>
>> I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru from
>> the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting the
>> pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
>>
>> 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the bearing
>> retainer.
>>
>> Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
>> http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
>> It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the clearance
>> between the bearing and the cap.
>>
>> 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should I
>> appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
>>
>> Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply liquid
>> soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.

 

I did the valve cover last week to rule out the easy fix....now I'm
in new territory doing the real seal and oil pan. :)

On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 10:09:59 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>If you follow the directions, you will get it.
>
>I prefer the one piece pan gasket.
>
>Then when you have it all back together and it still leaks out on the
>ground, go up top and fix the leaky valve cover....
>;-)
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> (87 YJ 258)
>> I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to tackle
>> the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses and
>> realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
>>
>> I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
>>
>> 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
>>
>> I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru from
>> the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting the
>> pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
>>
>> 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the bearing
>> retainer.
>>
>> Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
>> http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
>> It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the clearance
>> between the bearing and the cap.
>>
>> 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should I
>> appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
>>
>> Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply liquid
>> soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.

 

I did the valve cover last week to rule out the easy fix....now I'm
in new territory doing the real seal and oil pan. :)

On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 10:09:59 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>If you follow the directions, you will get it.
>
>I prefer the one piece pan gasket.
>
>Then when you have it all back together and it still leaks out on the
>ground, go up top and fix the leaky valve cover....
>;-)
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> (87 YJ 258)
>> I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to tackle
>> the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses and
>> realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
>>
>> I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
>>
>> 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
>>
>> I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru from
>> the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting the
>> pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
>>
>> 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the bearing
>> retainer.
>>
>> Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
>> http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
>> It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the clearance
>> between the bearing and the cap.
>>
>> 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should I
>> appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
>>
>> Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply liquid
>> soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.

 

I did the valve cover last week to rule out the easy fix....now I'm
in new territory doing the real seal and oil pan. :)

On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 10:09:59 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>If you follow the directions, you will get it.
>
>I prefer the one piece pan gasket.
>
>Then when you have it all back together and it still leaks out on the
>ground, go up top and fix the leaky valve cover....
>;-)
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> (87 YJ 258)
>> I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to tackle
>> the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses and
>> realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
>>
>> I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
>>
>> 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
>>
>> I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru from
>> the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting the
>> pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
>>
>> 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the bearing
>> retainer.
>>
>> Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
>> http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
>> It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the clearance
>> between the bearing and the cap.
>>
>> 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should I
>> appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
>>
>> Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply liquid
>> soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.

 

On the ones I do, I use the soap and oil on the seal and have had good
luck with them. The tabs or end wings on the seal also have to have RTV
on both sides of them. The cap needs it out at the edges on the angled
part

The trick is to get the pan and block super clean. Acetone works well
or brake cleaner for this. One fingerprint and the buggers will leak.

If using the cork, I use a thin skim of RTV silicone on both sides. I
think I even did that on my one piece I have in there now. No leaks
anyway. :-)

looking at your pan, I recommend RTV no matter what gasket. It fills in
the dents.

Then one big one a lot of folks forget is that RTV takes 24 hours to
cure. If you put oil in it or start it up before then, it likely will
leak.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jeepster wrote:
>
> I did the valve cover last week to rule out the easy fix....now I'm
> in new territory doing the real seal and oil pan. :)
>
> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 10:09:59 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >If you follow the directions, you will get it.
> >
> >I prefer the one piece pan gasket.
> >
> >Then when you have it all back together and it still leaks out on the
> >ground, go up top and fix the leaky valve cover....
> >;-)
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >Jeepster wrote:
> >>
> >> (87 YJ 258)
> >> I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to tackle
> >> the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses and
> >> realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
> >>
> >> I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
> >>
> >> 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
> >>
> >> I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru from
> >> the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting the
> >> pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
> >>
> >> 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the bearing
> >> retainer.
> >>
> >> Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
> >> http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
> >> It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the clearance
> >> between the bearing and the cap.
> >>
> >> 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should I
> >> appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
> >>
> >> Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply liquid
> >> soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance.

 

On the ones I do, I use the soap and oil on the seal and have had good
luck with them. The tabs or end wings on the seal also have to have RTV
on both sides of them. The cap needs it out at the edges on the angled
part

The trick is to get the pan and block super clean. Acetone works well
or brake cleaner for this. One fingerprint and the buggers will leak.

If using the cork, I use a thin skim of RTV silicone on both sides. I
think I even did that on my one piece I have in there now. No leaks
anyway. :-)

looking at your pan, I recommend RTV no matter what gasket. It fills in
the dents.

Then one big one a lot of folks forget is that RTV takes 24 hours to
cure. If you put oil in it or start it up before then, it likely will
leak.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jeepster wrote:
>
> I did the valve cover last week to rule out the easy fix....now I'm
> in new territory doing the real seal and oil pan. :)
>
> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 10:09:59 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >If you follow the directions, you will get it.
> >
> >I prefer the one piece pan gasket.
> >
> >Then when you have it all back together and it still leaks out on the
> >ground, go up top and fix the leaky valve cover....
> >;-)
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >Jeepster wrote:
> >>
> >> (87 YJ 258)
> >> I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to tackle
> >> the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses and
> >> realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
> >>
> >> I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
> >>
> >> 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
> >>
> >> I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru from
> >> the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting the
> >> pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
> >>
> >> 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the bearing
> >> retainer.
> >>
> >> Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
> >> http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
> >> It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the clearance
> >> between the bearing and the cap.
> >>
> >> 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should I
> >> appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
> >>
> >> Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply liquid
> >> soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance.

 

On the ones I do, I use the soap and oil on the seal and have had good
luck with them. The tabs or end wings on the seal also have to have RTV
on both sides of them. The cap needs it out at the edges on the angled
part

The trick is to get the pan and block super clean. Acetone works well
or brake cleaner for this. One fingerprint and the buggers will leak.

If using the cork, I use a thin skim of RTV silicone on both sides. I
think I even did that on my one piece I have in there now. No leaks
anyway. :-)

looking at your pan, I recommend RTV no matter what gasket. It fills in
the dents.

Then one big one a lot of folks forget is that RTV takes 24 hours to
cure. If you put oil in it or start it up before then, it likely will
leak.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jeepster wrote:
>
> I did the valve cover last week to rule out the easy fix....now I'm
> in new territory doing the real seal and oil pan. :)
>
> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 10:09:59 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >If you follow the directions, you will get it.
> >
> >I prefer the one piece pan gasket.
> >
> >Then when you have it all back together and it still leaks out on the
> >ground, go up top and fix the leaky valve cover....
> >;-)
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >Jeepster wrote:
> >>
> >> (87 YJ 258)
> >> I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to tackle
> >> the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses and
> >> realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
> >>
> >> I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
> >>
> >> 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
> >>
> >> I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru from
> >> the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting the
> >> pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
> >>
> >> 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the bearing
> >> retainer.
> >>
> >> Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
> >> http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
> >> It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the clearance
> >> between the bearing and the cap.
> >>
> >> 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should I
> >> appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
> >>
> >> Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply liquid
> >> soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance.