Jeepster

Later was about 1/2 hour after I tourqed it to 8 foot punds. I
originally thought I had the tourque wrench set to 120 inch pounds (10
ft lb's) but noticed that I had messed up. I imagine the silicone was
still quite soft and should be fine.

On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 09:56:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>You 'really' don't want to go and break the new glue seal!!!!
>
>Once you tighten the bolts, you can't breath on it until it cures.
>
>If you turn the bolts again, you will just tear open the fresh seal and
>it will leak like a sieve.
>
>Mike
>
>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> I cleaned the pan and the block and used a brass brush to polish it
>> up, I ran out of blue RTV so I went with the black on the seal tabs
>> and both sides of the pan gaskets I also put some on the outer edge of
>> the bearing retainer. I was amazed when I lifted the pan in place and
>> every hole lined up perfectly, I tourqued it to 8 foot pounds 1/2 hour
>> ago and I will go back around it later and put it to 10 foot pounds. (
>> no oil will go in this vehicle until tomorrow ....thanks)
>>
>> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 14:20:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >On the ones I do, I use the soap and oil on the seal and have had good
>> >luck with them. The tabs or end wings on the seal also have to have RTV
>> >on both sides of them. The cap needs it out at the edges on the angled
>> >part
>> >
>> >The trick is to get the pan and block super clean. Acetone works well
>> >or brake cleaner for this. One fingerprint and the buggers will leak.
>> >
>> >If using the cork, I use a thin skim of RTV silicone on both sides. I
>> >think I even did that on my one piece I have in there now. No leaks
>> >anyway. :-)
>> >
>> >looking at your pan, I recommend RTV no matter what gasket. It fills in
>> >the dents.
>> >
>> >Then one big one a lot of folks forget is that RTV takes 24 hours to
>> >cure. If you put oil in it or start it up before then, it likely will
>> >leak.
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >
>> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I did the valve cover last week to rule out the easy fix....now I'm
>> >> in new territory doing the real seal and oil pan. :)
>> >>
>> >> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 10:09:59 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >If you follow the directions, you will get it.
>> >> >
>> >> >I prefer the one piece pan gasket.
>> >> >
>> >> >Then when you have it all back together and it still leaks out on the
>> >> >ground, go up top and fix the leaky valve cover....
>> >> >;-)
>> >> >
>> >> >Mike
>> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> >
>> >> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> (87 YJ 258)
>> >> >> I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to tackle
>> >> >> the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses and
>> >> >> realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru from
>> >> >> the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting the
>> >> >> pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the bearing
>> >> >> retainer.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
>> >> >> http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
>> >> >> It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the clearance
>> >> >> between the bearing and the cap.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should I
>> >> >> appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply liquid
>> >> >> soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Thanks in advance.

Jeepster

Later was about 1/2 hour after I tourqed it to 8 foot punds. I
originally thought I had the tourque wrench set to 120 inch pounds (10
ft lb's) but noticed that I had messed up. I imagine the silicone was
still quite soft and should be fine.

On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 09:56:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>You 'really' don't want to go and break the new glue seal!!!!
>
>Once you tighten the bolts, you can't breath on it until it cures.
>
>If you turn the bolts again, you will just tear open the fresh seal and
>it will leak like a sieve.
>
>Mike
>
>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> I cleaned the pan and the block and used a brass brush to polish it
>> up, I ran out of blue RTV so I went with the black on the seal tabs
>> and both sides of the pan gaskets I also put some on the outer edge of
>> the bearing retainer. I was amazed when I lifted the pan in place and
>> every hole lined up perfectly, I tourqued it to 8 foot pounds 1/2 hour
>> ago and I will go back around it later and put it to 10 foot pounds. (
>> no oil will go in this vehicle until tomorrow ....thanks)
>>
>> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 14:20:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >On the ones I do, I use the soap and oil on the seal and have had good
>> >luck with them. The tabs or end wings on the seal also have to have RTV
>> >on both sides of them. The cap needs it out at the edges on the angled
>> >part
>> >
>> >The trick is to get the pan and block super clean. Acetone works well
>> >or brake cleaner for this. One fingerprint and the buggers will leak.
>> >
>> >If using the cork, I use a thin skim of RTV silicone on both sides. I
>> >think I even did that on my one piece I have in there now. No leaks
>> >anyway. :-)
>> >
>> >looking at your pan, I recommend RTV no matter what gasket. It fills in
>> >the dents.
>> >
>> >Then one big one a lot of folks forget is that RTV takes 24 hours to
>> >cure. If you put oil in it or start it up before then, it likely will
>> >leak.
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >
>> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I did the valve cover last week to rule out the easy fix....now I'm
>> >> in new territory doing the real seal and oil pan. :)
>> >>
>> >> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 10:09:59 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >If you follow the directions, you will get it.
>> >> >
>> >> >I prefer the one piece pan gasket.
>> >> >
>> >> >Then when you have it all back together and it still leaks out on the
>> >> >ground, go up top and fix the leaky valve cover....
>> >> >;-)
>> >> >
>> >> >Mike
>> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> >
>> >> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> (87 YJ 258)
>> >> >> I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to tackle
>> >> >> the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses and
>> >> >> realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru from
>> >> >> the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting the
>> >> >> pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the bearing
>> >> >> retainer.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
>> >> >> http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
>> >> >> It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the clearance
>> >> >> between the bearing and the cap.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should I
>> >> >> appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply liquid
>> >> >> soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Thanks in advance.

Jeepster

Later was about 1/2 hour after I tourqed it to 8 foot punds. I
originally thought I had the tourque wrench set to 120 inch pounds (10
ft lb's) but noticed that I had messed up. I imagine the silicone was
still quite soft and should be fine.

On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 09:56:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>You 'really' don't want to go and break the new glue seal!!!!
>
>Once you tighten the bolts, you can't breath on it until it cures.
>
>If you turn the bolts again, you will just tear open the fresh seal and
>it will leak like a sieve.
>
>Mike
>
>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> I cleaned the pan and the block and used a brass brush to polish it
>> up, I ran out of blue RTV so I went with the black on the seal tabs
>> and both sides of the pan gaskets I also put some on the outer edge of
>> the bearing retainer. I was amazed when I lifted the pan in place and
>> every hole lined up perfectly, I tourqued it to 8 foot pounds 1/2 hour
>> ago and I will go back around it later and put it to 10 foot pounds. (
>> no oil will go in this vehicle until tomorrow ....thanks)
>>
>> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 14:20:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >On the ones I do, I use the soap and oil on the seal and have had good
>> >luck with them. The tabs or end wings on the seal also have to have RTV
>> >on both sides of them. The cap needs it out at the edges on the angled
>> >part
>> >
>> >The trick is to get the pan and block super clean. Acetone works well
>> >or brake cleaner for this. One fingerprint and the buggers will leak.
>> >
>> >If using the cork, I use a thin skim of RTV silicone on both sides. I
>> >think I even did that on my one piece I have in there now. No leaks
>> >anyway. :-)
>> >
>> >looking at your pan, I recommend RTV no matter what gasket. It fills in
>> >the dents.
>> >
>> >Then one big one a lot of folks forget is that RTV takes 24 hours to
>> >cure. If you put oil in it or start it up before then, it likely will
>> >leak.
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >
>> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I did the valve cover last week to rule out the easy fix....now I'm
>> >> in new territory doing the real seal and oil pan. :)
>> >>
>> >> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 10:09:59 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >If you follow the directions, you will get it.
>> >> >
>> >> >I prefer the one piece pan gasket.
>> >> >
>> >> >Then when you have it all back together and it still leaks out on the
>> >> >ground, go up top and fix the leaky valve cover....
>> >> >;-)
>> >> >
>> >> >Mike
>> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> >
>> >> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> (87 YJ 258)
>> >> >> I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to tackle
>> >> >> the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses and
>> >> >> realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru from
>> >> >> the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting the
>> >> >> pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the bearing
>> >> >> retainer.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
>> >> >> http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
>> >> >> It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the clearance
>> >> >> between the bearing and the cap.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should I
>> >> >> appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply liquid
>> >> >> soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Thanks in advance.

Steve G

It's not a matter of still being soft, it has more to do with the "skinning"
effect and surface drying and disturbing the bond that's going on at the
surfaces.
As to your other question about aerosol adhesives, I don't like them either.
The best system I've seen for holding the gaskets in place is the plastic
retainers that thread into the pan bolt holes at the four corners. They are
split plastic studs that ------ at the inward end. Slide the gasket over
them and it sort of snaps in place. Slide the pan over them, start a few
bolts then use a screwdriver and remove the studs. They come with the pan
gaskets from some of the manufacturers. The one I used them on was a 300 cu
in ford truck and the gasket was from Fel-Pro I think.
Steve g.
"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
news:gqhhc0l04ohe3dllk9hk58275ovt7gk4im@4ax.com...
> Later was about 1/2 hour after I tourqed it to 8 foot punds. I
> originally thought I had the tourque wrench set to 120 inch pounds (10
> ft lb's) but noticed that I had messed up. I imagine the silicone was
> still quite soft and should be fine.
>
> On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 09:56:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >You 'really' don't want to go and break the new glue seal!!!!
> >
> >Once you tighten the bolts, you can't breath on it until it cures.
> >
> >If you turn the bolts again, you will just tear open the fresh seal and
> >it will leak like a sieve.
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >Jeepster wrote:
> >>
> >> I cleaned the pan and the block and used a brass brush to polish it
> >> up, I ran out of blue RTV so I went with the black on the seal tabs
> >> and both sides of the pan gaskets I also put some on the outer edge of
> >> the bearing retainer. I was amazed when I lifted the pan in place and
> >> every hole lined up perfectly, I tourqued it to 8 foot pounds 1/2 hour
> >> ago and I will go back around it later and put it to 10 foot pounds. (
> >> no oil will go in this vehicle until tomorrow ....thanks)
> >>
> >> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 14:20:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> >On the ones I do, I use the soap and oil on the seal and have had good
> >> >luck with them. The tabs or end wings on the seal also have to have
RTV
> >> >on both sides of them. The cap needs it out at the edges on the
angled
> >> >part
> >> >
> >> >The trick is to get the pan and block super clean. Acetone works well
> >> >or brake cleaner for this. One fingerprint and the buggers will leak.
> >> >
> >> >If using the cork, I use a thin skim of RTV silicone on both sides. I
> >> >think I even did that on my one piece I have in there now. No leaks
> >> >anyway. :-)
> >> >
> >> >looking at your pan, I recommend RTV no matter what gasket. It fills
in
> >> >the dents.
> >> >
> >> >Then one big one a lot of folks forget is that RTV takes 24 hours to
> >> >cure. If you put oil in it or start it up before then, it likely will
> >> >leak.
> >> >
> >> >Mike
> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> >
> >> >Jeepster wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> I did the valve cover last week to rule out the easy fix....now I'm
> >> >> in new territory doing the real seal and oil pan. :)
> >> >>
> >> >> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 10:09:59 -0400, Mike Romain
<romainm@sympatico.ca>
> >> >> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> >If you follow the directions, you will get it.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >I prefer the one piece pan gasket.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Then when you have it all back together and it still leaks out on
the
> >> >> >ground, go up top and fix the leaky valve cover....
> >> >> >;-)
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Mike
> >> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Jeepster wrote:
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> (87 YJ 258)
> >> >> >> I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to
tackle
> >> >> >> the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses
and
> >> >> >> realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru
from
> >> >> >> the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting
the
> >> >> >> pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the
bearing
> >> >> >> retainer.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
> >> >> >> http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
> >> >> >> It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the
clearance
> >> >> >> between the bearing and the cap.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should
I
> >> >> >> appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply
liquid
> >> >> >> soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> Thanks in advance.
>

Steve G

It's not a matter of still being soft, it has more to do with the "skinning"
effect and surface drying and disturbing the bond that's going on at the
surfaces.
As to your other question about aerosol adhesives, I don't like them either.
The best system I've seen for holding the gaskets in place is the plastic
retainers that thread into the pan bolt holes at the four corners. They are
split plastic studs that ------ at the inward end. Slide the gasket over
them and it sort of snaps in place. Slide the pan over them, start a few
bolts then use a screwdriver and remove the studs. They come with the pan
gaskets from some of the manufacturers. The one I used them on was a 300 cu
in ford truck and the gasket was from Fel-Pro I think.
Steve g.
"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
news:gqhhc0l04ohe3dllk9hk58275ovt7gk4im@4ax.com...
> Later was about 1/2 hour after I tourqed it to 8 foot punds. I
> originally thought I had the tourque wrench set to 120 inch pounds (10
> ft lb's) but noticed that I had messed up. I imagine the silicone was
> still quite soft and should be fine.
>
> On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 09:56:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >You 'really' don't want to go and break the new glue seal!!!!
> >
> >Once you tighten the bolts, you can't breath on it until it cures.
> >
> >If you turn the bolts again, you will just tear open the fresh seal and
> >it will leak like a sieve.
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >Jeepster wrote:
> >>
> >> I cleaned the pan and the block and used a brass brush to polish it
> >> up, I ran out of blue RTV so I went with the black on the seal tabs
> >> and both sides of the pan gaskets I also put some on the outer edge of
> >> the bearing retainer. I was amazed when I lifted the pan in place and
> >> every hole lined up perfectly, I tourqued it to 8 foot pounds 1/2 hour
> >> ago and I will go back around it later and put it to 10 foot pounds. (
> >> no oil will go in this vehicle until tomorrow ....thanks)
> >>
> >> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 14:20:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> >On the ones I do, I use the soap and oil on the seal and have had good
> >> >luck with them. The tabs or end wings on the seal also have to have
RTV
> >> >on both sides of them. The cap needs it out at the edges on the
angled
> >> >part
> >> >
> >> >The trick is to get the pan and block super clean. Acetone works well
> >> >or brake cleaner for this. One fingerprint and the buggers will leak.
> >> >
> >> >If using the cork, I use a thin skim of RTV silicone on both sides. I
> >> >think I even did that on my one piece I have in there now. No leaks
> >> >anyway. :-)
> >> >
> >> >looking at your pan, I recommend RTV no matter what gasket. It fills
in
> >> >the dents.
> >> >
> >> >Then one big one a lot of folks forget is that RTV takes 24 hours to
> >> >cure. If you put oil in it or start it up before then, it likely will
> >> >leak.
> >> >
> >> >Mike
> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> >
> >> >Jeepster wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> I did the valve cover last week to rule out the easy fix....now I'm
> >> >> in new territory doing the real seal and oil pan. :)
> >> >>
> >> >> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 10:09:59 -0400, Mike Romain
<romainm@sympatico.ca>
> >> >> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> >If you follow the directions, you will get it.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >I prefer the one piece pan gasket.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Then when you have it all back together and it still leaks out on
the
> >> >> >ground, go up top and fix the leaky valve cover....
> >> >> >;-)
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Mike
> >> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Jeepster wrote:
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> (87 YJ 258)
> >> >> >> I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to
tackle
> >> >> >> the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses
and
> >> >> >> realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru
from
> >> >> >> the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting
the
> >> >> >> pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the
bearing
> >> >> >> retainer.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
> >> >> >> http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
> >> >> >> It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the
clearance
> >> >> >> between the bearing and the cap.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should
I
> >> >> >> appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply
liquid
> >> >> >> soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> Thanks in advance.
>

Steve G

It's not a matter of still being soft, it has more to do with the "skinning"
effect and surface drying and disturbing the bond that's going on at the
surfaces.
As to your other question about aerosol adhesives, I don't like them either.
The best system I've seen for holding the gaskets in place is the plastic
retainers that thread into the pan bolt holes at the four corners. They are
split plastic studs that ------ at the inward end. Slide the gasket over
them and it sort of snaps in place. Slide the pan over them, start a few
bolts then use a screwdriver and remove the studs. They come with the pan
gaskets from some of the manufacturers. The one I used them on was a 300 cu
in ford truck and the gasket was from Fel-Pro I think.
Steve g.
"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
news:gqhhc0l04ohe3dllk9hk58275ovt7gk4im@4ax.com...
> Later was about 1/2 hour after I tourqed it to 8 foot punds. I
> originally thought I had the tourque wrench set to 120 inch pounds (10
> ft lb's) but noticed that I had messed up. I imagine the silicone was
> still quite soft and should be fine.
>
> On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 09:56:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >You 'really' don't want to go and break the new glue seal!!!!
> >
> >Once you tighten the bolts, you can't breath on it until it cures.
> >
> >If you turn the bolts again, you will just tear open the fresh seal and
> >it will leak like a sieve.
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >Jeepster wrote:
> >>
> >> I cleaned the pan and the block and used a brass brush to polish it
> >> up, I ran out of blue RTV so I went with the black on the seal tabs
> >> and both sides of the pan gaskets I also put some on the outer edge of
> >> the bearing retainer. I was amazed when I lifted the pan in place and
> >> every hole lined up perfectly, I tourqued it to 8 foot pounds 1/2 hour
> >> ago and I will go back around it later and put it to 10 foot pounds. (
> >> no oil will go in this vehicle until tomorrow ....thanks)
> >>
> >> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 14:20:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> >On the ones I do, I use the soap and oil on the seal and have had good
> >> >luck with them. The tabs or end wings on the seal also have to have
RTV
> >> >on both sides of them. The cap needs it out at the edges on the
angled
> >> >part
> >> >
> >> >The trick is to get the pan and block super clean. Acetone works well
> >> >or brake cleaner for this. One fingerprint and the buggers will leak.
> >> >
> >> >If using the cork, I use a thin skim of RTV silicone on both sides. I
> >> >think I even did that on my one piece I have in there now. No leaks
> >> >anyway. :-)
> >> >
> >> >looking at your pan, I recommend RTV no matter what gasket. It fills
in
> >> >the dents.
> >> >
> >> >Then one big one a lot of folks forget is that RTV takes 24 hours to
> >> >cure. If you put oil in it or start it up before then, it likely will
> >> >leak.
> >> >
> >> >Mike
> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> >
> >> >Jeepster wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> I did the valve cover last week to rule out the easy fix....now I'm
> >> >> in new territory doing the real seal and oil pan. :)
> >> >>
> >> >> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 10:09:59 -0400, Mike Romain
<romainm@sympatico.ca>
> >> >> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> >If you follow the directions, you will get it.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >I prefer the one piece pan gasket.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Then when you have it all back together and it still leaks out on
the
> >> >> >ground, go up top and fix the leaky valve cover....
> >> >> >;-)
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Mike
> >> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Jeepster wrote:
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> (87 YJ 258)
> >> >> >> I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to
tackle
> >> >> >> the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses
and
> >> >> >> realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru
from
> >> >> >> the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting
the
> >> >> >> pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the
bearing
> >> >> >> retainer.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
> >> >> >> http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
> >> >> >> It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the
clearance
> >> >> >> between the bearing and the cap.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should
I
> >> >> >> appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply
liquid
> >> >> >> soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> Thanks in advance.
>

Steve G

It's not a matter of still being soft, it has more to do with the "skinning"
effect and surface drying and disturbing the bond that's going on at the
surfaces.
As to your other question about aerosol adhesives, I don't like them either.
The best system I've seen for holding the gaskets in place is the plastic
retainers that thread into the pan bolt holes at the four corners. They are
split plastic studs that ------ at the inward end. Slide the gasket over
them and it sort of snaps in place. Slide the pan over them, start a few
bolts then use a screwdriver and remove the studs. They come with the pan
gaskets from some of the manufacturers. The one I used them on was a 300 cu
in ford truck and the gasket was from Fel-Pro I think.
Steve g.
"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
news:gqhhc0l04ohe3dllk9hk58275ovt7gk4im@4ax.com...
> Later was about 1/2 hour after I tourqed it to 8 foot punds. I
> originally thought I had the tourque wrench set to 120 inch pounds (10
> ft lb's) but noticed that I had messed up. I imagine the silicone was
> still quite soft and should be fine.
>
> On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 09:56:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >You 'really' don't want to go and break the new glue seal!!!!
> >
> >Once you tighten the bolts, you can't breath on it until it cures.
> >
> >If you turn the bolts again, you will just tear open the fresh seal and
> >it will leak like a sieve.
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >Jeepster wrote:
> >>
> >> I cleaned the pan and the block and used a brass brush to polish it
> >> up, I ran out of blue RTV so I went with the black on the seal tabs
> >> and both sides of the pan gaskets I also put some on the outer edge of
> >> the bearing retainer. I was amazed when I lifted the pan in place and
> >> every hole lined up perfectly, I tourqued it to 8 foot pounds 1/2 hour
> >> ago and I will go back around it later and put it to 10 foot pounds. (
> >> no oil will go in this vehicle until tomorrow ....thanks)
> >>
> >> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 14:20:34 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> >On the ones I do, I use the soap and oil on the seal and have had good
> >> >luck with them. The tabs or end wings on the seal also have to have
RTV
> >> >on both sides of them. The cap needs it out at the edges on the
angled
> >> >part
> >> >
> >> >The trick is to get the pan and block super clean. Acetone works well
> >> >or brake cleaner for this. One fingerprint and the buggers will leak.
> >> >
> >> >If using the cork, I use a thin skim of RTV silicone on both sides. I
> >> >think I even did that on my one piece I have in there now. No leaks
> >> >anyway. :-)
> >> >
> >> >looking at your pan, I recommend RTV no matter what gasket. It fills
in
> >> >the dents.
> >> >
> >> >Then one big one a lot of folks forget is that RTV takes 24 hours to
> >> >cure. If you put oil in it or start it up before then, it likely will
> >> >leak.
> >> >
> >> >Mike
> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> >
> >> >Jeepster wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> I did the valve cover last week to rule out the easy fix....now I'm
> >> >> in new territory doing the real seal and oil pan. :)
> >> >>
> >> >> On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 10:09:59 -0400, Mike Romain
<romainm@sympatico.ca>
> >> >> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> >If you follow the directions, you will get it.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >I prefer the one piece pan gasket.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Then when you have it all back together and it still leaks out on
the
> >> >> >ground, go up top and fix the leaky valve cover....
> >> >> >;-)
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Mike
> >> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Jeepster wrote:
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> (87 YJ 258)
> >> >> >> I got very tired of oil messing up my driveway and decided to
tackle
> >> >> >> the oil pan gasket and half way through that I came to my senses
and
> >> >> >> realized while I had the pan off why not do the rear seal.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> I have a few questions before I put it back together tomorrow.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> 1.) Haynes says to remove the bell housing inspection plate?
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> I took out all the bolts I could find (including 2 that go thru
from
> >> >> >> the rear) and it wouldn't budge. This didn't stop me from getting
the
> >> >> >> pan off so I can assume it was an unnessesary step.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> 2.) Haynes says to apply RTV to the chamfered edges of the
bearing
> >> >> >> retainer.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> Looking at this picture .....do I have the right spot?
> >> >> >> http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/rear_seal.htm
> >> >> >> It seems to me if I apply RTV here it will play with the
clearance
> >> >> >> between the bearing and the cap.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> 3.) Also should I plan to appy rtv to the cork gaskets but should
I
> >> >> >> appy RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> Oh.... I almost forgot they also state in the manual to apply
liquid
> >> >> >> soap to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> Thanks in advance.
>

Jerry McG

"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:nW8yc.690001$Pk3.104357@pd7tw1no...
> It's not a matter of still being soft, it has more to do with the
"skinning"
> effect and surface drying and disturbing the bond that's going on at the
> surfaces.
> As to your other question about aerosol adhesives, I don't like them
either.
> The best system I've seen for holding the gaskets in place is the plastic
> retainers that thread into the pan bolt holes at the four corners. They
are
> split plastic studs that ------ at the inward end. Slide the gasket over
> them and it sort of snaps in place. Slide the pan over them, start a few
> bolts then use a screwdriver and remove the studs. They come with the pan
> gaskets from some of the manufacturers. The one I used them on was a 300
cu
> in ford truck and the gasket was from Fel-Pro I think.

The factory manual recommends you make 6 slotted head studs out of bolts to
install in the bolt holes around the sides of the pan. You slip the gasket
over 'em and they hold it in place until you slip on the pan. These seemed
like PITA to make, so I went to the hardware store and got 6 sloted head
studs of the right size, worked like charm.

Jerry McG

"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:nW8yc.690001$Pk3.104357@pd7tw1no...
> It's not a matter of still being soft, it has more to do with the
"skinning"
> effect and surface drying and disturbing the bond that's going on at the
> surfaces.
> As to your other question about aerosol adhesives, I don't like them
either.
> The best system I've seen for holding the gaskets in place is the plastic
> retainers that thread into the pan bolt holes at the four corners. They
are
> split plastic studs that ------ at the inward end. Slide the gasket over
> them and it sort of snaps in place. Slide the pan over them, start a few
> bolts then use a screwdriver and remove the studs. They come with the pan
> gaskets from some of the manufacturers. The one I used them on was a 300
cu
> in ford truck and the gasket was from Fel-Pro I think.

The factory manual recommends you make 6 slotted head studs out of bolts to
install in the bolt holes around the sides of the pan. You slip the gasket
over 'em and they hold it in place until you slip on the pan. These seemed
like PITA to make, so I went to the hardware store and got 6 sloted head
studs of the right size, worked like charm.

Jerry McG

"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:nW8yc.690001$Pk3.104357@pd7tw1no...
> It's not a matter of still being soft, it has more to do with the
"skinning"
> effect and surface drying and disturbing the bond that's going on at the
> surfaces.
> As to your other question about aerosol adhesives, I don't like them
either.
> The best system I've seen for holding the gaskets in place is the plastic
> retainers that thread into the pan bolt holes at the four corners. They
are
> split plastic studs that ------ at the inward end. Slide the gasket over
> them and it sort of snaps in place. Slide the pan over them, start a few
> bolts then use a screwdriver and remove the studs. They come with the pan
> gaskets from some of the manufacturers. The one I used them on was a 300
cu
> in ford truck and the gasket was from Fel-Pro I think.

The factory manual recommends you make 6 slotted head studs out of bolts to
install in the bolt holes around the sides of the pan. You slip the gasket
over 'em and they hold it in place until you slip on the pan. These seemed
like PITA to make, so I went to the hardware store and got 6 sloted head
studs of the right size, worked like charm.