Jerry McG

Bill's got a good tip here. I call these things "hammer impact wrenches" and
they work great on stubborn torx bolts. My set's from Snap-On, just used it
on Friday to remove some torx bolts on my YJs inside windshield supports.

I'm not sure the issue with windshield hinge bolts isn't simply all the
paint on them, but a hammer impact will seat the bit and apply enough torque
to pop them loose.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:409D841D.CBEA749A@***.net...
> Hi Matt,
> From the days then the auto manufacturers used flush mounted
> Philips-head screws, we used a hand held impact-driver tool and hammer,
> of course you've must have the best in quality sockets from Craftsman or
> Snap-On. Just give it a twist in the direction you want to go and it
> gone: http://www.----------.com/impactDriver.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Matt wrote:
> >
> > I've always had to struggle with these idiotic Torx bolts Jeep uses.
> > Today I was trying to put mirror relo brackets on...I was warned
> > before that the retards at the factory had lathered lots of Loctite on
> > these particular ones when they installed them. It is now not
> > physically possible to exert enough force on these cheap bolts to
> > loosen them before they strip. No matter how I line them up or how
> > hard I keep the bit pressed in (even hammering the bit in doesn't work
> > enough), these pieces of ---- just grind apart when I try to turn
> > them. What can I do? They're not totally stripped out yet-I think I
> > might just pay someone to spot weld a bar onto them and hammer them
> > out. What other options do I have? It's a '99 TJ with no rust or
> > anything in the holes. The Jeep is a great vehicle in the whole of its
> > parts, but the details like this (and how cheap the black plastic on
> > the interior is) are where it sucks!
> >
> > Matt

Jerry McG

Bill's got a good tip here. I call these things "hammer impact wrenches" and
they work great on stubborn torx bolts. My set's from Snap-On, just used it
on Friday to remove some torx bolts on my YJs inside windshield supports.

I'm not sure the issue with windshield hinge bolts isn't simply all the
paint on them, but a hammer impact will seat the bit and apply enough torque
to pop them loose.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:409D841D.CBEA749A@***.net...
> Hi Matt,
> From the days then the auto manufacturers used flush mounted
> Philips-head screws, we used a hand held impact-driver tool and hammer,
> of course you've must have the best in quality sockets from Craftsman or
> Snap-On. Just give it a twist in the direction you want to go and it
> gone: http://www.----------.com/impactDriver.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Matt wrote:
> >
> > I've always had to struggle with these idiotic Torx bolts Jeep uses.
> > Today I was trying to put mirror relo brackets on...I was warned
> > before that the retards at the factory had lathered lots of Loctite on
> > these particular ones when they installed them. It is now not
> > physically possible to exert enough force on these cheap bolts to
> > loosen them before they strip. No matter how I line them up or how
> > hard I keep the bit pressed in (even hammering the bit in doesn't work
> > enough), these pieces of ---- just grind apart when I try to turn
> > them. What can I do? They're not totally stripped out yet-I think I
> > might just pay someone to spot weld a bar onto them and hammer them
> > out. What other options do I have? It's a '99 TJ with no rust or
> > anything in the holes. The Jeep is a great vehicle in the whole of its
> > parts, but the details like this (and how cheap the black plastic on
> > the interior is) are where it sucks!
> >
> > Matt

Jerry McG

Bill's got a good tip here. I call these things "hammer impact wrenches" and
they work great on stubborn torx bolts. My set's from Snap-On, just used it
on Friday to remove some torx bolts on my YJs inside windshield supports.

I'm not sure the issue with windshield hinge bolts isn't simply all the
paint on them, but a hammer impact will seat the bit and apply enough torque
to pop them loose.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:409D841D.CBEA749A@***.net...
> Hi Matt,
> From the days then the auto manufacturers used flush mounted
> Philips-head screws, we used a hand held impact-driver tool and hammer,
> of course you've must have the best in quality sockets from Craftsman or
> Snap-On. Just give it a twist in the direction you want to go and it
> gone: http://www.----------.com/impactDriver.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Matt wrote:
> >
> > I've always had to struggle with these idiotic Torx bolts Jeep uses.
> > Today I was trying to put mirror relo brackets on...I was warned
> > before that the retards at the factory had lathered lots of Loctite on
> > these particular ones when they installed them. It is now not
> > physically possible to exert enough force on these cheap bolts to
> > loosen them before they strip. No matter how I line them up or how
> > hard I keep the bit pressed in (even hammering the bit in doesn't work
> > enough), these pieces of ---- just grind apart when I try to turn
> > them. What can I do? They're not totally stripped out yet-I think I
> > might just pay someone to spot weld a bar onto them and hammer them
> > out. What other options do I have? It's a '99 TJ with no rust or
> > anything in the holes. The Jeep is a great vehicle in the whole of its
> > parts, but the details like this (and how cheap the black plastic on
> > the interior is) are where it sucks!
> >
> > Matt

DougW

SB did pass the time by typing:
> if it's not too late already....make sure your torx bit is in good shape and
> fits tight!
>
> heat and hammers (watch the glass!).
> gotta break that loctite hold...nothing will get in there so you better get
> a propane torch and ya....

Acording to the folks at loctite you can use a little bit
of threadlocker on the bolt, it will wick down like PB blaster
does on rust and loosen the grip. That or apply the hotwrench.

--
DougW

DougW

SB did pass the time by typing:
> if it's not too late already....make sure your torx bit is in good shape and
> fits tight!
>
> heat and hammers (watch the glass!).
> gotta break that loctite hold...nothing will get in there so you better get
> a propane torch and ya....

Acording to the folks at loctite you can use a little bit
of threadlocker on the bolt, it will wick down like PB blaster
does on rust and loosen the grip. That or apply the hotwrench.

--
DougW

DougW

SB did pass the time by typing:
> if it's not too late already....make sure your torx bit is in good shape and
> fits tight!
>
> heat and hammers (watch the glass!).
> gotta break that loctite hold...nothing will get in there so you better get
> a propane torch and ya....

Acording to the folks at loctite you can use a little bit
of threadlocker on the bolt, it will wick down like PB blaster
does on rust and loosen the grip. That or apply the hotwrench.

--
DougW

DougW

SB did pass the time by typing:
> if it's not too late already....make sure your torx bit is in good shape and
> fits tight!
>
> heat and hammers (watch the glass!).
> gotta break that loctite hold...nothing will get in there so you better get
> a propane torch and ya....

Acording to the folks at loctite you can use a little bit
of threadlocker on the bolt, it will wick down like PB blaster
does on rust and loosen the grip. That or apply the hotwrench.

--
DougW

DougW

DougW did pass the time by typing:
> SB did pass the time by typing:
>> if it's not too late already....make sure your torx bit is in good shape and
>> fits tight!
>>
>> heat and hammers (watch the glass!).
>> gotta break that loctite hold...nothing will get in there so you better get
>> a propane torch and ya....
>
> Acording to the folks at loctite you can use a little bit
> of threadlocker on the bolt, it will wick down like PB blaster
> does on rust and loosen the grip. That or apply the hotwrench.

Adding one more thing. (blame the brain addled beer cell). ::)

Don't use cheap *** torx bits! Use a precision made one, either
SnapOn/Craftsman or in a pinch, CalHawlk. The el-cheapo ones are
pressed or cast and just don't fit right.

--
DougW

DougW

DougW did pass the time by typing:
> SB did pass the time by typing:
>> if it's not too late already....make sure your torx bit is in good shape and
>> fits tight!
>>
>> heat and hammers (watch the glass!).
>> gotta break that loctite hold...nothing will get in there so you better get
>> a propane torch and ya....
>
> Acording to the folks at loctite you can use a little bit
> of threadlocker on the bolt, it will wick down like PB blaster
> does on rust and loosen the grip. That or apply the hotwrench.

Adding one more thing. (blame the brain addled beer cell). ::)

Don't use cheap *** torx bits! Use a precision made one, either
SnapOn/Craftsman or in a pinch, CalHawlk. The el-cheapo ones are
pressed or cast and just don't fit right.

--
DougW

DougW

DougW did pass the time by typing:
> SB did pass the time by typing:
>> if it's not too late already....make sure your torx bit is in good shape and
>> fits tight!
>>
>> heat and hammers (watch the glass!).
>> gotta break that loctite hold...nothing will get in there so you better get
>> a propane torch and ya....
>
> Acording to the folks at loctite you can use a little bit
> of threadlocker on the bolt, it will wick down like PB blaster
> does on rust and loosen the grip. That or apply the hotwrench.

Adding one more thing. (blame the brain addled beer cell). ::)

Don't use cheap *** torx bits! Use a precision made one, either
SnapOn/Craftsman or in a pinch, CalHawlk. The el-cheapo ones are
pressed or cast and just don't fit right.

--
DougW