Thanks for all the advice, guys! My Torx bits are pretty
good...they're Lisle, made in USA. I'll run out today and look for a
Craftsman impact socket, and take the thing to Pep Boys so they can
mess with it if that doesn't work out. I did see the similar thread on
this from a few days back, too... I tried the methods on there short
of the torch, and will get back at it now that my patience and temper
have returned!

Matt

 

Thanks for all the advice, guys! My Torx bits are pretty
good...they're Lisle, made in USA. I'll run out today and look for a
Craftsman impact socket, and take the thing to Pep Boys so they can
mess with it if that doesn't work out. I did see the similar thread on
this from a few days back, too... I tried the methods on there short
of the torch, and will get back at it now that my patience and temper
have returned!

Matt

 

Thanks for all the advice, guys! My Torx bits are pretty
good...they're Lisle, made in USA. I'll run out today and look for a
Craftsman impact socket, and take the thing to Pep Boys so they can
mess with it if that doesn't work out. I did see the similar thread on
this from a few days back, too... I tried the methods on there short
of the torch, and will get back at it now that my patience and temper
have returned!

Matt

 

The body side ones have nuts on the inside.

Mike

SB wrote:
>
> punching them through would mean you'd need to retap the hole, no??
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:409E2F8F.A66EAD89@sympatico.ca...
> > I have only gotten them out two ways.
> >
> > One is to drill the heads out and punch them through into the tub then
> > replace them and the other is to heat them with a torch to melt the
> > 'loctite'.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Matt wrote:
> > >
> > > I've always had to struggle with these idiotic Torx bolts Jeep uses.
> > > Today I was trying to put mirror relo brackets on...I was warned
> > > before that the retards at the factory had lathered lots of Loctite on
> > > these particular ones when they installed them. It is now not
> > > physically possible to exert enough force on these cheap bolts to
> > > loosen them before they strip. No matter how I line them up or how
> > > hard I keep the bit pressed in (even hammering the bit in doesn't work
> > > enough), these pieces of ---- just grind apart when I try to turn
> > > them. What can I do? They're not totally stripped out yet-I think I
> > > might just pay someone to spot weld a bar onto them and hammer them
> > > out. What other options do I have? It's a '99 TJ with no rust or
> > > anything in the holes. The Jeep is a great vehicle in the whole of its
> > > parts, but the details like this (and how cheap the black plastic on
> > > the interior is) are where it sucks!
> > >
> > > Matt

 

The body side ones have nuts on the inside.

Mike

SB wrote:
>
> punching them through would mean you'd need to retap the hole, no??
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:409E2F8F.A66EAD89@sympatico.ca...
> > I have only gotten them out two ways.
> >
> > One is to drill the heads out and punch them through into the tub then
> > replace them and the other is to heat them with a torch to melt the
> > 'loctite'.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Matt wrote:
> > >
> > > I've always had to struggle with these idiotic Torx bolts Jeep uses.
> > > Today I was trying to put mirror relo brackets on...I was warned
> > > before that the retards at the factory had lathered lots of Loctite on
> > > these particular ones when they installed them. It is now not
> > > physically possible to exert enough force on these cheap bolts to
> > > loosen them before they strip. No matter how I line them up or how
> > > hard I keep the bit pressed in (even hammering the bit in doesn't work
> > > enough), these pieces of ---- just grind apart when I try to turn
> > > them. What can I do? They're not totally stripped out yet-I think I
> > > might just pay someone to spot weld a bar onto them and hammer them
> > > out. What other options do I have? It's a '99 TJ with no rust or
> > > anything in the holes. The Jeep is a great vehicle in the whole of its
> > > parts, but the details like this (and how cheap the black plastic on
> > > the interior is) are where it sucks!
> > >
> > > Matt

 

The body side ones have nuts on the inside.

Mike

SB wrote:
>
> punching them through would mean you'd need to retap the hole, no??
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:409E2F8F.A66EAD89@sympatico.ca...
> > I have only gotten them out two ways.
> >
> > One is to drill the heads out and punch them through into the tub then
> > replace them and the other is to heat them with a torch to melt the
> > 'loctite'.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Matt wrote:
> > >
> > > I've always had to struggle with these idiotic Torx bolts Jeep uses.
> > > Today I was trying to put mirror relo brackets on...I was warned
> > > before that the retards at the factory had lathered lots of Loctite on
> > > these particular ones when they installed them. It is now not
> > > physically possible to exert enough force on these cheap bolts to
> > > loosen them before they strip. No matter how I line them up or how
> > > hard I keep the bit pressed in (even hammering the bit in doesn't work
> > > enough), these pieces of ---- just grind apart when I try to turn
> > > them. What can I do? They're not totally stripped out yet-I think I
> > > might just pay someone to spot weld a bar onto them and hammer them
> > > out. What other options do I have? It's a '99 TJ with no rust or
> > > anything in the holes. The Jeep is a great vehicle in the whole of its
> > > parts, but the details like this (and how cheap the black plastic on
> > > the interior is) are where it sucks!
> > >
> > > Matt

 

The body side ones have nuts on the inside.

Mike

SB wrote:
>
> punching them through would mean you'd need to retap the hole, no??
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:409E2F8F.A66EAD89@sympatico.ca...
> > I have only gotten them out two ways.
> >
> > One is to drill the heads out and punch them through into the tub then
> > replace them and the other is to heat them with a torch to melt the
> > 'loctite'.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Matt wrote:
> > >
> > > I've always had to struggle with these idiotic Torx bolts Jeep uses.
> > > Today I was trying to put mirror relo brackets on...I was warned
> > > before that the retards at the factory had lathered lots of Loctite on
> > > these particular ones when they installed them. It is now not
> > > physically possible to exert enough force on these cheap bolts to
> > > loosen them before they strip. No matter how I line them up or how
> > > hard I keep the bit pressed in (even hammering the bit in doesn't work
> > > enough), these pieces of ---- just grind apart when I try to turn
> > > them. What can I do? They're not totally stripped out yet-I think I
> > > might just pay someone to spot weld a bar onto them and hammer them
> > > out. What other options do I have? It's a '99 TJ with no rust or
> > > anything in the holes. The Jeep is a great vehicle in the whole of its
> > > parts, but the details like this (and how cheap the black plastic on
> > > the interior is) are where it sucks!
> > >
> > > Matt

 

Matt did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks for all the advice, guys! My Torx bits are pretty
> good...they're Lisle, made in USA. I'll run out today and look for a
> Craftsman impact socket, and take the thing to Pep Boys so they can
> mess with it if that doesn't work out. I did see the similar thread on
> this from a few days back, too... I tried the methods on there short
> of the torch, and will get back at it now that my patience and temper
> have returned!

Try this.

Put a cheater bar on the end and turn the bolt back and forth.
When it starts to come out, put a little PB blaster on it
then run it back in and out again. That helps get the stuff
broken up and worked wonders on several bolts that were giving
me grief.

--
DougW

 

Matt did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks for all the advice, guys! My Torx bits are pretty
> good...they're Lisle, made in USA. I'll run out today and look for a
> Craftsman impact socket, and take the thing to Pep Boys so they can
> mess with it if that doesn't work out. I did see the similar thread on
> this from a few days back, too... I tried the methods on there short
> of the torch, and will get back at it now that my patience and temper
> have returned!

Try this.

Put a cheater bar on the end and turn the bolt back and forth.
When it starts to come out, put a little PB blaster on it
then run it back in and out again. That helps get the stuff
broken up and worked wonders on several bolts that were giving
me grief.

--
DougW

 

Matt did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks for all the advice, guys! My Torx bits are pretty
> good...they're Lisle, made in USA. I'll run out today and look for a
> Craftsman impact socket, and take the thing to Pep Boys so they can
> mess with it if that doesn't work out. I did see the similar thread on
> this from a few days back, too... I tried the methods on there short
> of the torch, and will get back at it now that my patience and temper
> have returned!

Try this.

Put a cheater bar on the end and turn the bolt back and forth.
When it starts to come out, put a little PB blaster on it
then run it back in and out again. That helps get the stuff
broken up and worked wonders on several bolts that were giving
me grief.

--
DougW