Pulled the #2 main bearing
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pulled the #2 main bearing
Hi Bill,
You have ten under rod inserts, I presume the mains the same. The
next worst crank would be a 20, 20 and they'd probably pass that on to
the next lower shop on the totem pole.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Bill, could you expand on the 10 10 crank. What does this mean?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
You have ten under rod inserts, I presume the mains the same. The
next worst crank would be a 20, 20 and they'd probably pass that on to
the next lower shop on the totem pole.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Bill, could you expand on the 10 10 crank. What does this mean?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pulled the #2 main bearing
It means the crank was ground .010 of an inch undersize in order to restore
roundness and the proper surface finish to the rod and crank journals. You
then use a .010 undersize bearing to restore the proper oil clearances.
Chris
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c1u1vq$1mi4ek$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Bill, could you expand on the 10 10 crank. What does this mean?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:404289CC.87842352@***.net...
> > It's a rebuilt, with forty over pistons, and a ten, ten crank.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Lee Ayrton wrote:
> > >
> > > Check the outer surface of a rod bearing for some stamped information.
> If
> > > you find a "1980" you know that you're looking at the factory original
> > > bearings.
>
>
roundness and the proper surface finish to the rod and crank journals. You
then use a .010 undersize bearing to restore the proper oil clearances.
Chris
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c1u1vq$1mi4ek$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Bill, could you expand on the 10 10 crank. What does this mean?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:404289CC.87842352@***.net...
> > It's a rebuilt, with forty over pistons, and a ten, ten crank.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Lee Ayrton wrote:
> > >
> > > Check the outer surface of a rod bearing for some stamped information.
> If
> > > you find a "1980" you know that you're looking at the factory original
> > > bearings.
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pulled the #2 main bearing
It means the crank was ground .010 of an inch undersize in order to restore
roundness and the proper surface finish to the rod and crank journals. You
then use a .010 undersize bearing to restore the proper oil clearances.
Chris
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c1u1vq$1mi4ek$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Bill, could you expand on the 10 10 crank. What does this mean?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:404289CC.87842352@***.net...
> > It's a rebuilt, with forty over pistons, and a ten, ten crank.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Lee Ayrton wrote:
> > >
> > > Check the outer surface of a rod bearing for some stamped information.
> If
> > > you find a "1980" you know that you're looking at the factory original
> > > bearings.
>
>
roundness and the proper surface finish to the rod and crank journals. You
then use a .010 undersize bearing to restore the proper oil clearances.
Chris
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c1u1vq$1mi4ek$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Bill, could you expand on the 10 10 crank. What does this mean?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:404289CC.87842352@***.net...
> > It's a rebuilt, with forty over pistons, and a ten, ten crank.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Lee Ayrton wrote:
> > >
> > > Check the outer surface of a rod bearing for some stamped information.
> If
> > > you find a "1980" you know that you're looking at the factory original
> > > bearings.
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pulled the #2 main bearing
It means the crank was ground .010 of an inch undersize in order to restore
roundness and the proper surface finish to the rod and crank journals. You
then use a .010 undersize bearing to restore the proper oil clearances.
Chris
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c1u1vq$1mi4ek$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Bill, could you expand on the 10 10 crank. What does this mean?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:404289CC.87842352@***.net...
> > It's a rebuilt, with forty over pistons, and a ten, ten crank.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Lee Ayrton wrote:
> > >
> > > Check the outer surface of a rod bearing for some stamped information.
> If
> > > you find a "1980" you know that you're looking at the factory original
> > > bearings.
>
>
roundness and the proper surface finish to the rod and crank journals. You
then use a .010 undersize bearing to restore the proper oil clearances.
Chris
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c1u1vq$1mi4ek$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Bill, could you expand on the 10 10 crank. What does this mean?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:404289CC.87842352@***.net...
> > It's a rebuilt, with forty over pistons, and a ten, ten crank.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Lee Ayrton wrote:
> > >
> > > Check the outer surface of a rod bearing for some stamped information.
> If
> > > you find a "1980" you know that you're looking at the factory original
> > > bearings.
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pulled the #2 main bearing
Is it THAT drastic? It sounds as though the block is at issue when you talk
about tossing it for new.
I mean...a crate motor is what...$6-10k (guessing here...and using Canadian
guessing....our taxes suck!...but yeah, health care!).
Is it more or less the time it takes to get other shops to check the
valves/cores/heads/blah/blah/blah????
I understand that if it's your only vehicle, you want to get it done and
over with right quick. But how much work is it really?
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:vIv0c.16904$1k.15014@okepread01...
> SB did pass the time by typing:
> > You guys are talking about a rebuild....what exactly does that entail!?
And
> > be gentle....me electronics guy, me no know vroom vroom!!
>
> In a nutshell, it entails a whole lot of work that goes much easier with
> the engine on a stand.
>
> Basically this is the point where you decide if it's worth the time and
effort
> to rebuild or are you better off getting a rebuilt or crate motor.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
about tossing it for new.
I mean...a crate motor is what...$6-10k (guessing here...and using Canadian
guessing....our taxes suck!...but yeah, health care!).
Is it more or less the time it takes to get other shops to check the
valves/cores/heads/blah/blah/blah????
I understand that if it's your only vehicle, you want to get it done and
over with right quick. But how much work is it really?
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:vIv0c.16904$1k.15014@okepread01...
> SB did pass the time by typing:
> > You guys are talking about a rebuild....what exactly does that entail!?
And
> > be gentle....me electronics guy, me no know vroom vroom!!
>
> In a nutshell, it entails a whole lot of work that goes much easier with
> the engine on a stand.
>
> Basically this is the point where you decide if it's worth the time and
effort
> to rebuild or are you better off getting a rebuilt or crate motor.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pulled the #2 main bearing
Is it THAT drastic? It sounds as though the block is at issue when you talk
about tossing it for new.
I mean...a crate motor is what...$6-10k (guessing here...and using Canadian
guessing....our taxes suck!...but yeah, health care!).
Is it more or less the time it takes to get other shops to check the
valves/cores/heads/blah/blah/blah????
I understand that if it's your only vehicle, you want to get it done and
over with right quick. But how much work is it really?
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:vIv0c.16904$1k.15014@okepread01...
> SB did pass the time by typing:
> > You guys are talking about a rebuild....what exactly does that entail!?
And
> > be gentle....me electronics guy, me no know vroom vroom!!
>
> In a nutshell, it entails a whole lot of work that goes much easier with
> the engine on a stand.
>
> Basically this is the point where you decide if it's worth the time and
effort
> to rebuild or are you better off getting a rebuilt or crate motor.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
about tossing it for new.
I mean...a crate motor is what...$6-10k (guessing here...and using Canadian
guessing....our taxes suck!...but yeah, health care!).
Is it more or less the time it takes to get other shops to check the
valves/cores/heads/blah/blah/blah????
I understand that if it's your only vehicle, you want to get it done and
over with right quick. But how much work is it really?
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:vIv0c.16904$1k.15014@okepread01...
> SB did pass the time by typing:
> > You guys are talking about a rebuild....what exactly does that entail!?
And
> > be gentle....me electronics guy, me no know vroom vroom!!
>
> In a nutshell, it entails a whole lot of work that goes much easier with
> the engine on a stand.
>
> Basically this is the point where you decide if it's worth the time and
effort
> to rebuild or are you better off getting a rebuilt or crate motor.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pulled the #2 main bearing
Is it THAT drastic? It sounds as though the block is at issue when you talk
about tossing it for new.
I mean...a crate motor is what...$6-10k (guessing here...and using Canadian
guessing....our taxes suck!...but yeah, health care!).
Is it more or less the time it takes to get other shops to check the
valves/cores/heads/blah/blah/blah????
I understand that if it's your only vehicle, you want to get it done and
over with right quick. But how much work is it really?
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:vIv0c.16904$1k.15014@okepread01...
> SB did pass the time by typing:
> > You guys are talking about a rebuild....what exactly does that entail!?
And
> > be gentle....me electronics guy, me no know vroom vroom!!
>
> In a nutshell, it entails a whole lot of work that goes much easier with
> the engine on a stand.
>
> Basically this is the point where you decide if it's worth the time and
effort
> to rebuild or are you better off getting a rebuilt or crate motor.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
about tossing it for new.
I mean...a crate motor is what...$6-10k (guessing here...and using Canadian
guessing....our taxes suck!...but yeah, health care!).
Is it more or less the time it takes to get other shops to check the
valves/cores/heads/blah/blah/blah????
I understand that if it's your only vehicle, you want to get it done and
over with right quick. But how much work is it really?
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:vIv0c.16904$1k.15014@okepread01...
> SB did pass the time by typing:
> > You guys are talking about a rebuild....what exactly does that entail!?
And
> > be gentle....me electronics guy, me no know vroom vroom!!
>
> In a nutshell, it entails a whole lot of work that goes much easier with
> the engine on a stand.
>
> Basically this is the point where you decide if it's worth the time and
effort
> to rebuild or are you better off getting a rebuilt or crate motor.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pulled the #2 main bearing
This bearing looks brutal. I would suspect it's seen many miles between
oil/filter changes. Something else that I find alarming is the sharp
contrast in the finish on the left side. I think it's time to invest in some
plastigage and see what's going on down there. I'd pull all the main caps
and if you're really energetic pull the rod caps too. Remember to mark them.
http://www.dana.com/perfectcircle/Plastigage.htm
How many miles since this was "rebuilt"?
-Brian
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c1tdu9$1m7nas$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
: I got to thinking about this maybe being local to #2 so I decided to pull
a
: main bearing to see what it looked like:
:
: Here you go:
:
: http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...ng/main_2a.jpg
:
: Copper showing here.
:
:
: Billo
:
:
oil/filter changes. Something else that I find alarming is the sharp
contrast in the finish on the left side. I think it's time to invest in some
plastigage and see what's going on down there. I'd pull all the main caps
and if you're really energetic pull the rod caps too. Remember to mark them.
http://www.dana.com/perfectcircle/Plastigage.htm
How many miles since this was "rebuilt"?
-Brian
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c1tdu9$1m7nas$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
: I got to thinking about this maybe being local to #2 so I decided to pull
a
: main bearing to see what it looked like:
:
: Here you go:
:
: http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...ng/main_2a.jpg
:
: Copper showing here.
:
:
: Billo
:
:
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pulled the #2 main bearing
This bearing looks brutal. I would suspect it's seen many miles between
oil/filter changes. Something else that I find alarming is the sharp
contrast in the finish on the left side. I think it's time to invest in some
plastigage and see what's going on down there. I'd pull all the main caps
and if you're really energetic pull the rod caps too. Remember to mark them.
http://www.dana.com/perfectcircle/Plastigage.htm
How many miles since this was "rebuilt"?
-Brian
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c1tdu9$1m7nas$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
: I got to thinking about this maybe being local to #2 so I decided to pull
a
: main bearing to see what it looked like:
:
: Here you go:
:
: http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...ng/main_2a.jpg
:
: Copper showing here.
:
:
: Billo
:
:
oil/filter changes. Something else that I find alarming is the sharp
contrast in the finish on the left side. I think it's time to invest in some
plastigage and see what's going on down there. I'd pull all the main caps
and if you're really energetic pull the rod caps too. Remember to mark them.
http://www.dana.com/perfectcircle/Plastigage.htm
How many miles since this was "rebuilt"?
-Brian
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c1tdu9$1m7nas$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
: I got to thinking about this maybe being local to #2 so I decided to pull
a
: main bearing to see what it looked like:
:
: Here you go:
:
: http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...ng/main_2a.jpg
:
: Copper showing here.
:
:
: Billo
:
:
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Pulled the #2 main bearing
This bearing looks brutal. I would suspect it's seen many miles between
oil/filter changes. Something else that I find alarming is the sharp
contrast in the finish on the left side. I think it's time to invest in some
plastigage and see what's going on down there. I'd pull all the main caps
and if you're really energetic pull the rod caps too. Remember to mark them.
http://www.dana.com/perfectcircle/Plastigage.htm
How many miles since this was "rebuilt"?
-Brian
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c1tdu9$1m7nas$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
: I got to thinking about this maybe being local to #2 so I decided to pull
a
: main bearing to see what it looked like:
:
: Here you go:
:
: http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...ng/main_2a.jpg
:
: Copper showing here.
:
:
: Billo
:
:
oil/filter changes. Something else that I find alarming is the sharp
contrast in the finish on the left side. I think it's time to invest in some
plastigage and see what's going on down there. I'd pull all the main caps
and if you're really energetic pull the rod caps too. Remember to mark them.
http://www.dana.com/perfectcircle/Plastigage.htm
How many miles since this was "rebuilt"?
-Brian
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c1tdu9$1m7nas$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
: I got to thinking about this maybe being local to #2 so I decided to pull
a
: main bearing to see what it looked like:
:
: Here you go:
:
: http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...ng/main_2a.jpg
:
: Copper showing here.
:
:
: Billo
:
:
