No speedo
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
No speedo
Driving home today, my speedometer bounced from actual speed to zero and
back several times before it finally settled on 0. The odometer was not
incrementing either. I checked the connector at the back of the transfer
case and everything is still connected. There were no fluid leaks to
indicate a loose fit. The wires appear to be connected with no breaks. The
Engine fault codes were 12, 11, and 55. Doesn't seem related to
speedometer.
Any ideas on what I can check?
Thanks,
Dennis
97 TJ Sport
4.0 liter
5 speed
back several times before it finally settled on 0. The odometer was not
incrementing either. I checked the connector at the back of the transfer
case and everything is still connected. There were no fluid leaks to
indicate a loose fit. The wires appear to be connected with no breaks. The
Engine fault codes were 12, 11, and 55. Doesn't seem related to
speedometer.
Any ideas on what I can check?
Thanks,
Dennis
97 TJ Sport
4.0 liter
5 speed
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: No speedo
On Mon, 10 Nov 2003 20:58:05 GMT, "Dennis ***"
<dennisthis@ebdthistoocorp.com> shared the following:
>Driving home today, my speedometer bounced from actual speed to zero and
>back several times before it finally settled on 0. The odometer was not
>incrementing either. I checked the connector at the back of the transfer
>case and everything is still connected. There were no fluid leaks to
>indicate a loose fit. The wires appear to be connected with no breaks. The
>Engine fault codes were 12, 11, and 55. Doesn't seem related to
>speedometer.
>
>Any ideas on what I can check?
>
>Thanks,
>Dennis
>97 TJ Sport
>4.0 liter
>5 speed
>
Is there no cable involved here? I don't know how the new stuff
works. It sounds like your cable just broke (if you have one) but...
If the same thing happened to me with my '76 CJ I'd disconnect the
cable at both ends and then spin one end of it and see if it spun on
the other end, and I'd be shocked if it did. I dunno. Are the newer
setups all electronic or something?
--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!
<dennisthis@ebdthistoocorp.com> shared the following:
>Driving home today, my speedometer bounced from actual speed to zero and
>back several times before it finally settled on 0. The odometer was not
>incrementing either. I checked the connector at the back of the transfer
>case and everything is still connected. There were no fluid leaks to
>indicate a loose fit. The wires appear to be connected with no breaks. The
>Engine fault codes were 12, 11, and 55. Doesn't seem related to
>speedometer.
>
>Any ideas on what I can check?
>
>Thanks,
>Dennis
>97 TJ Sport
>4.0 liter
>5 speed
>
Is there no cable involved here? I don't know how the new stuff
works. It sounds like your cable just broke (if you have one) but...
If the same thing happened to me with my '76 CJ I'd disconnect the
cable at both ends and then spin one end of it and see if it spun on
the other end, and I'd be shocked if it did. I dunno. Are the newer
setups all electronic or something?
--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: No speedo
On Mon, 10 Nov 2003 20:58:05 GMT, "Dennis ***"
<dennisthis@ebdthistoocorp.com> shared the following:
>Driving home today, my speedometer bounced from actual speed to zero and
>back several times before it finally settled on 0. The odometer was not
>incrementing either. I checked the connector at the back of the transfer
>case and everything is still connected. There were no fluid leaks to
>indicate a loose fit. The wires appear to be connected with no breaks. The
>Engine fault codes were 12, 11, and 55. Doesn't seem related to
>speedometer.
>
>Any ideas on what I can check?
>
>Thanks,
>Dennis
>97 TJ Sport
>4.0 liter
>5 speed
>
Is there no cable involved here? I don't know how the new stuff
works. It sounds like your cable just broke (if you have one) but...
If the same thing happened to me with my '76 CJ I'd disconnect the
cable at both ends and then spin one end of it and see if it spun on
the other end, and I'd be shocked if it did. I dunno. Are the newer
setups all electronic or something?
--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!
<dennisthis@ebdthistoocorp.com> shared the following:
>Driving home today, my speedometer bounced from actual speed to zero and
>back several times before it finally settled on 0. The odometer was not
>incrementing either. I checked the connector at the back of the transfer
>case and everything is still connected. There were no fluid leaks to
>indicate a loose fit. The wires appear to be connected with no breaks. The
>Engine fault codes were 12, 11, and 55. Doesn't seem related to
>speedometer.
>
>Any ideas on what I can check?
>
>Thanks,
>Dennis
>97 TJ Sport
>4.0 liter
>5 speed
>
Is there no cable involved here? I don't know how the new stuff
works. It sounds like your cable just broke (if you have one) but...
If the same thing happened to me with my '76 CJ I'd disconnect the
cable at both ends and then spin one end of it and see if it spun on
the other end, and I'd be shocked if it did. I dunno. Are the newer
setups all electronic or something?
--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: No speedo
On Mon, 10 Nov 2003 20:58:05 GMT, "Dennis ***"
<dennisthis@ebdthistoocorp.com> shared the following:
>Driving home today, my speedometer bounced from actual speed to zero and
>back several times before it finally settled on 0. The odometer was not
>incrementing either. I checked the connector at the back of the transfer
>case and everything is still connected. There were no fluid leaks to
>indicate a loose fit. The wires appear to be connected with no breaks. The
>Engine fault codes were 12, 11, and 55. Doesn't seem related to
>speedometer.
>
>Any ideas on what I can check?
>
>Thanks,
>Dennis
>97 TJ Sport
>4.0 liter
>5 speed
>
Is there no cable involved here? I don't know how the new stuff
works. It sounds like your cable just broke (if you have one) but...
If the same thing happened to me with my '76 CJ I'd disconnect the
cable at both ends and then spin one end of it and see if it spun on
the other end, and I'd be shocked if it did. I dunno. Are the newer
setups all electronic or something?
--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!
<dennisthis@ebdthistoocorp.com> shared the following:
>Driving home today, my speedometer bounced from actual speed to zero and
>back several times before it finally settled on 0. The odometer was not
>incrementing either. I checked the connector at the back of the transfer
>case and everything is still connected. There were no fluid leaks to
>indicate a loose fit. The wires appear to be connected with no breaks. The
>Engine fault codes were 12, 11, and 55. Doesn't seem related to
>speedometer.
>
>Any ideas on what I can check?
>
>Thanks,
>Dennis
>97 TJ Sport
>4.0 liter
>5 speed
>
Is there no cable involved here? I don't know how the new stuff
works. It sounds like your cable just broke (if you have one) but...
If the same thing happened to me with my '76 CJ I'd disconnect the
cable at both ends and then spin one end of it and see if it spun on
the other end, and I'd be shocked if it did. I dunno. Are the newer
setups all electronic or something?
--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: No speedo
Dennis *** did pass the time by typing:
> Driving home today, my speedometer bounced from actual speed to zero and
> back several times before it finally settled on 0. The odometer was not
> incrementing either. I checked the connector at the back of the transfer
> case and everything is still connected. There were no fluid leaks to
> indicate a loose fit. The wires appear to be connected with no breaks. The
> Engine fault codes were 12, 11, and 55. Doesn't seem related to
> speedometer.
In modern vehicles everything is related. Most signals flow through the
computer before they go anywhere.
12 = battery disconnected within 50 power cycles
11 = No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking.
Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.
55 = end of codes
11 is not a "good code" But in conjuction with 12 you might just need to
check your battery connections and double check/clean the connector to the
speed sensor.
11 is telling you that your CPS sensor might be failing. When it does die
your engine simply will not run. It will stop and stay that way.
These codes can be thrown by bad supply voltage to the computer guts, but
usually that results in a boatload of other codes.
Did your engine stammer at all?
Anyhoo, remove, clean and replace the connectors to your Camshaft Position
Sensor (located on the distributor) and the Crankshaft Position Sensor
(located at 11:00 on the transmission bell housing). Also check and clean
the connectors to your tranny and the battery terminals.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Driving home today, my speedometer bounced from actual speed to zero and
> back several times before it finally settled on 0. The odometer was not
> incrementing either. I checked the connector at the back of the transfer
> case and everything is still connected. There were no fluid leaks to
> indicate a loose fit. The wires appear to be connected with no breaks. The
> Engine fault codes were 12, 11, and 55. Doesn't seem related to
> speedometer.
In modern vehicles everything is related. Most signals flow through the
computer before they go anywhere.
12 = battery disconnected within 50 power cycles
11 = No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking.
Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.
55 = end of codes
11 is not a "good code" But in conjuction with 12 you might just need to
check your battery connections and double check/clean the connector to the
speed sensor.
11 is telling you that your CPS sensor might be failing. When it does die
your engine simply will not run. It will stop and stay that way.
These codes can be thrown by bad supply voltage to the computer guts, but
usually that results in a boatload of other codes.
Did your engine stammer at all?
Anyhoo, remove, clean and replace the connectors to your Camshaft Position
Sensor (located on the distributor) and the Crankshaft Position Sensor
(located at 11:00 on the transmission bell housing). Also check and clean
the connectors to your tranny and the battery terminals.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: No speedo
Dennis *** did pass the time by typing:
> Driving home today, my speedometer bounced from actual speed to zero and
> back several times before it finally settled on 0. The odometer was not
> incrementing either. I checked the connector at the back of the transfer
> case and everything is still connected. There were no fluid leaks to
> indicate a loose fit. The wires appear to be connected with no breaks. The
> Engine fault codes were 12, 11, and 55. Doesn't seem related to
> speedometer.
In modern vehicles everything is related. Most signals flow through the
computer before they go anywhere.
12 = battery disconnected within 50 power cycles
11 = No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking.
Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.
55 = end of codes
11 is not a "good code" But in conjuction with 12 you might just need to
check your battery connections and double check/clean the connector to the
speed sensor.
11 is telling you that your CPS sensor might be failing. When it does die
your engine simply will not run. It will stop and stay that way.
These codes can be thrown by bad supply voltage to the computer guts, but
usually that results in a boatload of other codes.
Did your engine stammer at all?
Anyhoo, remove, clean and replace the connectors to your Camshaft Position
Sensor (located on the distributor) and the Crankshaft Position Sensor
(located at 11:00 on the transmission bell housing). Also check and clean
the connectors to your tranny and the battery terminals.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Driving home today, my speedometer bounced from actual speed to zero and
> back several times before it finally settled on 0. The odometer was not
> incrementing either. I checked the connector at the back of the transfer
> case and everything is still connected. There were no fluid leaks to
> indicate a loose fit. The wires appear to be connected with no breaks. The
> Engine fault codes were 12, 11, and 55. Doesn't seem related to
> speedometer.
In modern vehicles everything is related. Most signals flow through the
computer before they go anywhere.
12 = battery disconnected within 50 power cycles
11 = No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking.
Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.
55 = end of codes
11 is not a "good code" But in conjuction with 12 you might just need to
check your battery connections and double check/clean the connector to the
speed sensor.
11 is telling you that your CPS sensor might be failing. When it does die
your engine simply will not run. It will stop and stay that way.
These codes can be thrown by bad supply voltage to the computer guts, but
usually that results in a boatload of other codes.
Did your engine stammer at all?
Anyhoo, remove, clean and replace the connectors to your Camshaft Position
Sensor (located on the distributor) and the Crankshaft Position Sensor
(located at 11:00 on the transmission bell housing). Also check and clean
the connectors to your tranny and the battery terminals.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: No speedo
Dennis *** did pass the time by typing:
> Driving home today, my speedometer bounced from actual speed to zero and
> back several times before it finally settled on 0. The odometer was not
> incrementing either. I checked the connector at the back of the transfer
> case and everything is still connected. There were no fluid leaks to
> indicate a loose fit. The wires appear to be connected with no breaks. The
> Engine fault codes were 12, 11, and 55. Doesn't seem related to
> speedometer.
In modern vehicles everything is related. Most signals flow through the
computer before they go anywhere.
12 = battery disconnected within 50 power cycles
11 = No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking.
Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.
55 = end of codes
11 is not a "good code" But in conjuction with 12 you might just need to
check your battery connections and double check/clean the connector to the
speed sensor.
11 is telling you that your CPS sensor might be failing. When it does die
your engine simply will not run. It will stop and stay that way.
These codes can be thrown by bad supply voltage to the computer guts, but
usually that results in a boatload of other codes.
Did your engine stammer at all?
Anyhoo, remove, clean and replace the connectors to your Camshaft Position
Sensor (located on the distributor) and the Crankshaft Position Sensor
(located at 11:00 on the transmission bell housing). Also check and clean
the connectors to your tranny and the battery terminals.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Driving home today, my speedometer bounced from actual speed to zero and
> back several times before it finally settled on 0. The odometer was not
> incrementing either. I checked the connector at the back of the transfer
> case and everything is still connected. There were no fluid leaks to
> indicate a loose fit. The wires appear to be connected with no breaks. The
> Engine fault codes were 12, 11, and 55. Doesn't seem related to
> speedometer.
In modern vehicles everything is related. Most signals flow through the
computer before they go anywhere.
12 = battery disconnected within 50 power cycles
11 = No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking.
Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.
55 = end of codes
11 is not a "good code" But in conjuction with 12 you might just need to
check your battery connections and double check/clean the connector to the
speed sensor.
11 is telling you that your CPS sensor might be failing. When it does die
your engine simply will not run. It will stop and stay that way.
These codes can be thrown by bad supply voltage to the computer guts, but
usually that results in a boatload of other codes.
Did your engine stammer at all?
Anyhoo, remove, clean and replace the connectors to your Camshaft Position
Sensor (located on the distributor) and the Crankshaft Position Sensor
(located at 11:00 on the transmission bell housing). Also check and clean
the connectors to your tranny and the battery terminals.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: No speedo
On Mon, 10 Nov 2003 15:05:51 -0600, "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> shared the following:
>Dennis *** did pass the time by typing:
>> Driving home today, my speedometer bounced from actual speed to zero and
>> back several times before it finally settled on 0. The odometer was not
>> incrementing either. I checked the connector at the back of the transfer
>> case and everything is still connected. There were no fluid leaks to
>> indicate a loose fit. The wires appear to be connected with no breaks. The
>> Engine fault codes were 12, 11, and 55. Doesn't seem related to
>> speedometer.
>
>In modern vehicles everything is related. Most signals flow through the
>computer before they go anywhere.
>
>12 = battery disconnected within 50 power cycles
>11 = No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking.
> Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.
>55 = end of codes
>
>
>11 is not a "good code" But in conjuction with 12 you might just need to
>check your battery connections and double check/clean the connector to the
>speed sensor.
>
>11 is telling you that your CPS sensor might be failing. When it does die
>your engine simply will not run. It will stop and stay that way.
>These codes can be thrown by bad supply voltage to the computer guts, but
>usually that results in a boatload of other codes.
>
>Did your engine stammer at all?
>
>
>Anyhoo, remove, clean and replace the connectors to your Camshaft Position
>Sensor (located on the distributor) and the Crankshaft Position Sensor
>(located at 11:00 on the transmission bell housing). Also check and clean
>the connectors to your tranny and the battery terminals.
Wow. And it used to be as simple as a cable. :-)
--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!
<post.replies@invalid.address> shared the following:
>Dennis *** did pass the time by typing:
>> Driving home today, my speedometer bounced from actual speed to zero and
>> back several times before it finally settled on 0. The odometer was not
>> incrementing either. I checked the connector at the back of the transfer
>> case and everything is still connected. There were no fluid leaks to
>> indicate a loose fit. The wires appear to be connected with no breaks. The
>> Engine fault codes were 12, 11, and 55. Doesn't seem related to
>> speedometer.
>
>In modern vehicles everything is related. Most signals flow through the
>computer before they go anywhere.
>
>12 = battery disconnected within 50 power cycles
>11 = No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking.
> Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.
>55 = end of codes
>
>
>11 is not a "good code" But in conjuction with 12 you might just need to
>check your battery connections and double check/clean the connector to the
>speed sensor.
>
>11 is telling you that your CPS sensor might be failing. When it does die
>your engine simply will not run. It will stop and stay that way.
>These codes can be thrown by bad supply voltage to the computer guts, but
>usually that results in a boatload of other codes.
>
>Did your engine stammer at all?
>
>
>Anyhoo, remove, clean and replace the connectors to your Camshaft Position
>Sensor (located on the distributor) and the Crankshaft Position Sensor
>(located at 11:00 on the transmission bell housing). Also check and clean
>the connectors to your tranny and the battery terminals.
Wow. And it used to be as simple as a cable. :-)
--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: No speedo
On Mon, 10 Nov 2003 15:05:51 -0600, "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> shared the following:
>Dennis *** did pass the time by typing:
>> Driving home today, my speedometer bounced from actual speed to zero and
>> back several times before it finally settled on 0. The odometer was not
>> incrementing either. I checked the connector at the back of the transfer
>> case and everything is still connected. There were no fluid leaks to
>> indicate a loose fit. The wires appear to be connected with no breaks. The
>> Engine fault codes were 12, 11, and 55. Doesn't seem related to
>> speedometer.
>
>In modern vehicles everything is related. Most signals flow through the
>computer before they go anywhere.
>
>12 = battery disconnected within 50 power cycles
>11 = No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking.
> Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.
>55 = end of codes
>
>
>11 is not a "good code" But in conjuction with 12 you might just need to
>check your battery connections and double check/clean the connector to the
>speed sensor.
>
>11 is telling you that your CPS sensor might be failing. When it does die
>your engine simply will not run. It will stop and stay that way.
>These codes can be thrown by bad supply voltage to the computer guts, but
>usually that results in a boatload of other codes.
>
>Did your engine stammer at all?
>
>
>Anyhoo, remove, clean and replace the connectors to your Camshaft Position
>Sensor (located on the distributor) and the Crankshaft Position Sensor
>(located at 11:00 on the transmission bell housing). Also check and clean
>the connectors to your tranny and the battery terminals.
Wow. And it used to be as simple as a cable. :-)
--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!
<post.replies@invalid.address> shared the following:
>Dennis *** did pass the time by typing:
>> Driving home today, my speedometer bounced from actual speed to zero and
>> back several times before it finally settled on 0. The odometer was not
>> incrementing either. I checked the connector at the back of the transfer
>> case and everything is still connected. There were no fluid leaks to
>> indicate a loose fit. The wires appear to be connected with no breaks. The
>> Engine fault codes were 12, 11, and 55. Doesn't seem related to
>> speedometer.
>
>In modern vehicles everything is related. Most signals flow through the
>computer before they go anywhere.
>
>12 = battery disconnected within 50 power cycles
>11 = No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking.
> Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.
>55 = end of codes
>
>
>11 is not a "good code" But in conjuction with 12 you might just need to
>check your battery connections and double check/clean the connector to the
>speed sensor.
>
>11 is telling you that your CPS sensor might be failing. When it does die
>your engine simply will not run. It will stop and stay that way.
>These codes can be thrown by bad supply voltage to the computer guts, but
>usually that results in a boatload of other codes.
>
>Did your engine stammer at all?
>
>
>Anyhoo, remove, clean and replace the connectors to your Camshaft Position
>Sensor (located on the distributor) and the Crankshaft Position Sensor
>(located at 11:00 on the transmission bell housing). Also check and clean
>the connectors to your tranny and the battery terminals.
Wow. And it used to be as simple as a cable. :-)
--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: No speedo
On Mon, 10 Nov 2003 15:05:51 -0600, "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> shared the following:
>Dennis *** did pass the time by typing:
>> Driving home today, my speedometer bounced from actual speed to zero and
>> back several times before it finally settled on 0. The odometer was not
>> incrementing either. I checked the connector at the back of the transfer
>> case and everything is still connected. There were no fluid leaks to
>> indicate a loose fit. The wires appear to be connected with no breaks. The
>> Engine fault codes were 12, 11, and 55. Doesn't seem related to
>> speedometer.
>
>In modern vehicles everything is related. Most signals flow through the
>computer before they go anywhere.
>
>12 = battery disconnected within 50 power cycles
>11 = No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking.
> Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.
>55 = end of codes
>
>
>11 is not a "good code" But in conjuction with 12 you might just need to
>check your battery connections and double check/clean the connector to the
>speed sensor.
>
>11 is telling you that your CPS sensor might be failing. When it does die
>your engine simply will not run. It will stop and stay that way.
>These codes can be thrown by bad supply voltage to the computer guts, but
>usually that results in a boatload of other codes.
>
>Did your engine stammer at all?
>
>
>Anyhoo, remove, clean and replace the connectors to your Camshaft Position
>Sensor (located on the distributor) and the Crankshaft Position Sensor
>(located at 11:00 on the transmission bell housing). Also check and clean
>the connectors to your tranny and the battery terminals.
Wow. And it used to be as simple as a cable. :-)
--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!
<post.replies@invalid.address> shared the following:
>Dennis *** did pass the time by typing:
>> Driving home today, my speedometer bounced from actual speed to zero and
>> back several times before it finally settled on 0. The odometer was not
>> incrementing either. I checked the connector at the back of the transfer
>> case and everything is still connected. There were no fluid leaks to
>> indicate a loose fit. The wires appear to be connected with no breaks. The
>> Engine fault codes were 12, 11, and 55. Doesn't seem related to
>> speedometer.
>
>In modern vehicles everything is related. Most signals flow through the
>computer before they go anywhere.
>
>12 = battery disconnected within 50 power cycles
>11 = No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking.
> Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.
>55 = end of codes
>
>
>11 is not a "good code" But in conjuction with 12 you might just need to
>check your battery connections and double check/clean the connector to the
>speed sensor.
>
>11 is telling you that your CPS sensor might be failing. When it does die
>your engine simply will not run. It will stop and stay that way.
>These codes can be thrown by bad supply voltage to the computer guts, but
>usually that results in a boatload of other codes.
>
>Did your engine stammer at all?
>
>
>Anyhoo, remove, clean and replace the connectors to your Camshaft Position
>Sensor (located on the distributor) and the Crankshaft Position Sensor
>(located at 11:00 on the transmission bell housing). Also check and clean
>the connectors to your tranny and the battery terminals.
Wow. And it used to be as simple as a cable. :-)
--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!