Is this Jeep worth it?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is this Jeep worth it?
jimboe via CarKB.com did pass the time by typing:
> OK, now that I've spoken/met with the owner and driven/checked the car,
> here's the skinny.
>
> It's a:
> 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, V8 5.2
> 208K miles.
> Has had a minor frontal, which caused the hood on the pas side by the
> winshield to be a bit askew/lifted/opened (1/2 inch).
Considering the ZJ is a uniframe/unibody mix you should look at the
front cross members and radiator supports for damage. If all they
did is whack the hood/grill then your ok. A bit of body work or simple
adjustment should bring the hood corner back down.
An alignment check is in order.
> Rear pas door lock mechanism is broken (internally), so it's currently stuck
> in locked/closed.
Depending on what's broken it could be as simple as the plastic pawl or as
involved as the lock mechanisim. You couldn't open it from inside or outside?
If so this is going to be a real pain to fix since taking the door panel off
with the door shut is difficult. The lock mechanisim is a single unit but
the clipon plastics are available through NAPA or the dealer.
> She had been hit from behind several yrs earlier, all damage repaired but now
> the hatch doesn't stay opened (hydrolics need to be replaced).
The lift gate gas-struts go bad in just a few years anyway, that's normal.
They arn't real cheap though. NAPA sells them.
> Rear bumper seems likes it's not fastened on strongly.
The rear bumper is only held on by a slider clip on each side and
a handfull of plastic reusable popthingies. Some under the bumper and the
rest under the tread plate.
> Next. I checked tranny fluid-- it was about empty.
You found the reason for the slip. Long as it wasn't dry, adding
more fluid should be all you need. Although I'd pesonally drop the
pan and clean the filter and inspect just to be sure.
> Power steering fluid also near empty.
Not a biggie, nothing gets damaged long as there is a little fluid in there.
> She's the 2nd owner. Bought it in 97 with 78K. The rest of the miles are hers
> as detailed in the OP.
>
> She's not done any major maintenence, only oil/filter, brakes, she seems to
> recall some "pump" that she changed.
>
> She's not sure if she ever did a tune-up. Doesn't look like it. The Alt./AC
> belt seems like it might not have to much time left- it exhibits some
> cracking.
If the unibelt has any cracks it should be replaced pronto. Again, not a difficult
thing to do and NAPA/autozone/pepboys has the belt. I personally prefer Dayco Polycog.
> Driving it on the highway seemed fine, just that when "flooring" it, say from
> 60 to go to 75 or 80, there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it
> accelerates quickly.
>
> She's been using 87 octane always-- perhaps build-up.
Could be. At any rate you should do the ignition system, cap, rotor, wires, and
plugs. The plugs will tell you what's going on. By the way, I think the 5.2 wanted
at least 91. But that depends on altitude. The lower you are the higher octane
you probably need.
> I brought it to a mechanic. Hooked up the computer, and the car wasn't
> reporting any error codes. Engine idle seemed low to me, and the computer
> reported it between 600-640. I believe that's low.
low, but not by much. no-codes is good.
> The oil gauge also occassionally "bounced" from 40 to 80, but the mech said
> that is probably a faulty sensor since it wasnt jumping wildly/constanly, and
> the engine idle and engine running is basically smooth.
Loose or dirty connector to the pressure sender.
> Left side of the throttle-arm (the tab you can bend to adjust the rpm while
> idling) are 2 cables "facing" one another, each cables' end, covered by a
> black plastic cap (like a pen cap). Mechanic said one is for cruise ctrl,
> other is for the transmission. The end of each wasn't connected to, or
> otherwise hooked up to anynthing (like the throttle adjuster I guess). Both
> he said should be replaced.
The ends do. The tranny cable (kickdown cable) is important as it clues your
transmission into shifting down when you open the throttle all the way.
> The transmission cable was loose/had alot of play. He indicated that by
> replacing it, or otherwise using some type of kludge to tighten it, the car
> would have more "punch" when flooring it.
The transmission kickdown cable has an adjuster. You push the little button in
and take up the slack. It then ratchets back to where it is supposed to be.
> I don't know if the cruise works, neither does she. I didn't test it. I
> assume it doesn't.
>
> Some/all of the motor mounts need to be replaced.
A pain, but not impossible. Believable in a vehicle that old. I'm on
my second pair. You will also have a transmission mount that will need
to be replaced at the same time or the engine will not sit properly.
> Underneath, the mechanic noted a very small amount of oil when looking up
> into the engine- nothing major there, but, the power steering pump has a leak
> so either it's a hose to/from the pump, or the pump itself would have to be
> replaced. I'd have to fill it and see how quickly it leaks out.
Leaks are commonly, the return hose at bottle and the O ring between the bottle
and pump.
> At the middle-rear of the underside, the differential/transfer case was wet.
> He said that is why there's no transmission fluid in the car- that it leaked
> out from there-- and that possibly the case could have to be replaced-- which
> is expensive.
The case has it's own fluid and is not part of the transmission.
There is one bolt on top and one lower. depending on the transfer case
it's just ATF+3 and you take both bolts out, drain, put in the lower one
and fill till it comes out the top hole, then put the bolt back in. Hardest
part is squeezing in the fluid.
Now if it's ran dry the chain inside could have been damaged. That's fairly
unlikely though.
> The console inside is indicating "SERVICE 4WD SWITCH", which he believes is
> located on top of the transfer case, and that perhaps it got fouled by being
> exposed to leaking tranny fluid.
Yep. Problem is to replace the switch on some you have to take the case out.
All it does is change the tire lights and 4hi 4lo indicator. Not a critical
circuit.
> Now a question on the differential/transfer case. My friend (on his 95), says
> that perhaps the case just needs the gasket to be changed, and not the case
> itself (he had this done). My friend seems to believe that the transmission
> fluid being empty is unrelated to the wet diff/trans case. He says that the
> case uses "it's own" fluid, and that to be filled the mechanic drops it down
> from the underside and "injects" the fluid in there, and not from under the
> hood.
If you want to get an idea on parts costs use these folks. They are a dealer
I've used in the past but they don't try to screw you with markup.
http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> OK, now that I've spoken/met with the owner and driven/checked the car,
> here's the skinny.
>
> It's a:
> 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, V8 5.2
> 208K miles.
> Has had a minor frontal, which caused the hood on the pas side by the
> winshield to be a bit askew/lifted/opened (1/2 inch).
Considering the ZJ is a uniframe/unibody mix you should look at the
front cross members and radiator supports for damage. If all they
did is whack the hood/grill then your ok. A bit of body work or simple
adjustment should bring the hood corner back down.
An alignment check is in order.
> Rear pas door lock mechanism is broken (internally), so it's currently stuck
> in locked/closed.
Depending on what's broken it could be as simple as the plastic pawl or as
involved as the lock mechanisim. You couldn't open it from inside or outside?
If so this is going to be a real pain to fix since taking the door panel off
with the door shut is difficult. The lock mechanisim is a single unit but
the clipon plastics are available through NAPA or the dealer.
> She had been hit from behind several yrs earlier, all damage repaired but now
> the hatch doesn't stay opened (hydrolics need to be replaced).
The lift gate gas-struts go bad in just a few years anyway, that's normal.
They arn't real cheap though. NAPA sells them.
> Rear bumper seems likes it's not fastened on strongly.
The rear bumper is only held on by a slider clip on each side and
a handfull of plastic reusable popthingies. Some under the bumper and the
rest under the tread plate.
> Next. I checked tranny fluid-- it was about empty.
You found the reason for the slip. Long as it wasn't dry, adding
more fluid should be all you need. Although I'd pesonally drop the
pan and clean the filter and inspect just to be sure.
> Power steering fluid also near empty.
Not a biggie, nothing gets damaged long as there is a little fluid in there.
> She's the 2nd owner. Bought it in 97 with 78K. The rest of the miles are hers
> as detailed in the OP.
>
> She's not done any major maintenence, only oil/filter, brakes, she seems to
> recall some "pump" that she changed.
>
> She's not sure if she ever did a tune-up. Doesn't look like it. The Alt./AC
> belt seems like it might not have to much time left- it exhibits some
> cracking.
If the unibelt has any cracks it should be replaced pronto. Again, not a difficult
thing to do and NAPA/autozone/pepboys has the belt. I personally prefer Dayco Polycog.
> Driving it on the highway seemed fine, just that when "flooring" it, say from
> 60 to go to 75 or 80, there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it
> accelerates quickly.
>
> She's been using 87 octane always-- perhaps build-up.
Could be. At any rate you should do the ignition system, cap, rotor, wires, and
plugs. The plugs will tell you what's going on. By the way, I think the 5.2 wanted
at least 91. But that depends on altitude. The lower you are the higher octane
you probably need.
> I brought it to a mechanic. Hooked up the computer, and the car wasn't
> reporting any error codes. Engine idle seemed low to me, and the computer
> reported it between 600-640. I believe that's low.
low, but not by much. no-codes is good.
> The oil gauge also occassionally "bounced" from 40 to 80, but the mech said
> that is probably a faulty sensor since it wasnt jumping wildly/constanly, and
> the engine idle and engine running is basically smooth.
Loose or dirty connector to the pressure sender.
> Left side of the throttle-arm (the tab you can bend to adjust the rpm while
> idling) are 2 cables "facing" one another, each cables' end, covered by a
> black plastic cap (like a pen cap). Mechanic said one is for cruise ctrl,
> other is for the transmission. The end of each wasn't connected to, or
> otherwise hooked up to anynthing (like the throttle adjuster I guess). Both
> he said should be replaced.
The ends do. The tranny cable (kickdown cable) is important as it clues your
transmission into shifting down when you open the throttle all the way.
> The transmission cable was loose/had alot of play. He indicated that by
> replacing it, or otherwise using some type of kludge to tighten it, the car
> would have more "punch" when flooring it.
The transmission kickdown cable has an adjuster. You push the little button in
and take up the slack. It then ratchets back to where it is supposed to be.
> I don't know if the cruise works, neither does she. I didn't test it. I
> assume it doesn't.
>
> Some/all of the motor mounts need to be replaced.
A pain, but not impossible. Believable in a vehicle that old. I'm on
my second pair. You will also have a transmission mount that will need
to be replaced at the same time or the engine will not sit properly.
> Underneath, the mechanic noted a very small amount of oil when looking up
> into the engine- nothing major there, but, the power steering pump has a leak
> so either it's a hose to/from the pump, or the pump itself would have to be
> replaced. I'd have to fill it and see how quickly it leaks out.
Leaks are commonly, the return hose at bottle and the O ring between the bottle
and pump.
> At the middle-rear of the underside, the differential/transfer case was wet.
> He said that is why there's no transmission fluid in the car- that it leaked
> out from there-- and that possibly the case could have to be replaced-- which
> is expensive.
The case has it's own fluid and is not part of the transmission.
There is one bolt on top and one lower. depending on the transfer case
it's just ATF+3 and you take both bolts out, drain, put in the lower one
and fill till it comes out the top hole, then put the bolt back in. Hardest
part is squeezing in the fluid.
Now if it's ran dry the chain inside could have been damaged. That's fairly
unlikely though.
> The console inside is indicating "SERVICE 4WD SWITCH", which he believes is
> located on top of the transfer case, and that perhaps it got fouled by being
> exposed to leaking tranny fluid.
Yep. Problem is to replace the switch on some you have to take the case out.
All it does is change the tire lights and 4hi 4lo indicator. Not a critical
circuit.
> Now a question on the differential/transfer case. My friend (on his 95), says
> that perhaps the case just needs the gasket to be changed, and not the case
> itself (he had this done). My friend seems to believe that the transmission
> fluid being empty is unrelated to the wet diff/trans case. He says that the
> case uses "it's own" fluid, and that to be filled the mechanic drops it down
> from the underside and "injects" the fluid in there, and not from under the
> hood.
If you want to get an idea on parts costs use these folks. They are a dealer
I've used in the past but they don't try to screw you with markup.
http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is this Jeep worth it?
jimboe via CarKB.com did pass the time by typing:
> OK, now that I've spoken/met with the owner and driven/checked the car,
> here's the skinny.
>
> It's a:
> 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, V8 5.2
> 208K miles.
> Has had a minor frontal, which caused the hood on the pas side by the
> winshield to be a bit askew/lifted/opened (1/2 inch).
Considering the ZJ is a uniframe/unibody mix you should look at the
front cross members and radiator supports for damage. If all they
did is whack the hood/grill then your ok. A bit of body work or simple
adjustment should bring the hood corner back down.
An alignment check is in order.
> Rear pas door lock mechanism is broken (internally), so it's currently stuck
> in locked/closed.
Depending on what's broken it could be as simple as the plastic pawl or as
involved as the lock mechanisim. You couldn't open it from inside or outside?
If so this is going to be a real pain to fix since taking the door panel off
with the door shut is difficult. The lock mechanisim is a single unit but
the clipon plastics are available through NAPA or the dealer.
> She had been hit from behind several yrs earlier, all damage repaired but now
> the hatch doesn't stay opened (hydrolics need to be replaced).
The lift gate gas-struts go bad in just a few years anyway, that's normal.
They arn't real cheap though. NAPA sells them.
> Rear bumper seems likes it's not fastened on strongly.
The rear bumper is only held on by a slider clip on each side and
a handfull of plastic reusable popthingies. Some under the bumper and the
rest under the tread plate.
> Next. I checked tranny fluid-- it was about empty.
You found the reason for the slip. Long as it wasn't dry, adding
more fluid should be all you need. Although I'd pesonally drop the
pan and clean the filter and inspect just to be sure.
> Power steering fluid also near empty.
Not a biggie, nothing gets damaged long as there is a little fluid in there.
> She's the 2nd owner. Bought it in 97 with 78K. The rest of the miles are hers
> as detailed in the OP.
>
> She's not done any major maintenence, only oil/filter, brakes, she seems to
> recall some "pump" that she changed.
>
> She's not sure if she ever did a tune-up. Doesn't look like it. The Alt./AC
> belt seems like it might not have to much time left- it exhibits some
> cracking.
If the unibelt has any cracks it should be replaced pronto. Again, not a difficult
thing to do and NAPA/autozone/pepboys has the belt. I personally prefer Dayco Polycog.
> Driving it on the highway seemed fine, just that when "flooring" it, say from
> 60 to go to 75 or 80, there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it
> accelerates quickly.
>
> She's been using 87 octane always-- perhaps build-up.
Could be. At any rate you should do the ignition system, cap, rotor, wires, and
plugs. The plugs will tell you what's going on. By the way, I think the 5.2 wanted
at least 91. But that depends on altitude. The lower you are the higher octane
you probably need.
> I brought it to a mechanic. Hooked up the computer, and the car wasn't
> reporting any error codes. Engine idle seemed low to me, and the computer
> reported it between 600-640. I believe that's low.
low, but not by much. no-codes is good.
> The oil gauge also occassionally "bounced" from 40 to 80, but the mech said
> that is probably a faulty sensor since it wasnt jumping wildly/constanly, and
> the engine idle and engine running is basically smooth.
Loose or dirty connector to the pressure sender.
> Left side of the throttle-arm (the tab you can bend to adjust the rpm while
> idling) are 2 cables "facing" one another, each cables' end, covered by a
> black plastic cap (like a pen cap). Mechanic said one is for cruise ctrl,
> other is for the transmission. The end of each wasn't connected to, or
> otherwise hooked up to anynthing (like the throttle adjuster I guess). Both
> he said should be replaced.
The ends do. The tranny cable (kickdown cable) is important as it clues your
transmission into shifting down when you open the throttle all the way.
> The transmission cable was loose/had alot of play. He indicated that by
> replacing it, or otherwise using some type of kludge to tighten it, the car
> would have more "punch" when flooring it.
The transmission kickdown cable has an adjuster. You push the little button in
and take up the slack. It then ratchets back to where it is supposed to be.
> I don't know if the cruise works, neither does she. I didn't test it. I
> assume it doesn't.
>
> Some/all of the motor mounts need to be replaced.
A pain, but not impossible. Believable in a vehicle that old. I'm on
my second pair. You will also have a transmission mount that will need
to be replaced at the same time or the engine will not sit properly.
> Underneath, the mechanic noted a very small amount of oil when looking up
> into the engine- nothing major there, but, the power steering pump has a leak
> so either it's a hose to/from the pump, or the pump itself would have to be
> replaced. I'd have to fill it and see how quickly it leaks out.
Leaks are commonly, the return hose at bottle and the O ring between the bottle
and pump.
> At the middle-rear of the underside, the differential/transfer case was wet.
> He said that is why there's no transmission fluid in the car- that it leaked
> out from there-- and that possibly the case could have to be replaced-- which
> is expensive.
The case has it's own fluid and is not part of the transmission.
There is one bolt on top and one lower. depending on the transfer case
it's just ATF+3 and you take both bolts out, drain, put in the lower one
and fill till it comes out the top hole, then put the bolt back in. Hardest
part is squeezing in the fluid.
Now if it's ran dry the chain inside could have been damaged. That's fairly
unlikely though.
> The console inside is indicating "SERVICE 4WD SWITCH", which he believes is
> located on top of the transfer case, and that perhaps it got fouled by being
> exposed to leaking tranny fluid.
Yep. Problem is to replace the switch on some you have to take the case out.
All it does is change the tire lights and 4hi 4lo indicator. Not a critical
circuit.
> Now a question on the differential/transfer case. My friend (on his 95), says
> that perhaps the case just needs the gasket to be changed, and not the case
> itself (he had this done). My friend seems to believe that the transmission
> fluid being empty is unrelated to the wet diff/trans case. He says that the
> case uses "it's own" fluid, and that to be filled the mechanic drops it down
> from the underside and "injects" the fluid in there, and not from under the
> hood.
If you want to get an idea on parts costs use these folks. They are a dealer
I've used in the past but they don't try to screw you with markup.
http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> OK, now that I've spoken/met with the owner and driven/checked the car,
> here's the skinny.
>
> It's a:
> 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, V8 5.2
> 208K miles.
> Has had a minor frontal, which caused the hood on the pas side by the
> winshield to be a bit askew/lifted/opened (1/2 inch).
Considering the ZJ is a uniframe/unibody mix you should look at the
front cross members and radiator supports for damage. If all they
did is whack the hood/grill then your ok. A bit of body work or simple
adjustment should bring the hood corner back down.
An alignment check is in order.
> Rear pas door lock mechanism is broken (internally), so it's currently stuck
> in locked/closed.
Depending on what's broken it could be as simple as the plastic pawl or as
involved as the lock mechanisim. You couldn't open it from inside or outside?
If so this is going to be a real pain to fix since taking the door panel off
with the door shut is difficult. The lock mechanisim is a single unit but
the clipon plastics are available through NAPA or the dealer.
> She had been hit from behind several yrs earlier, all damage repaired but now
> the hatch doesn't stay opened (hydrolics need to be replaced).
The lift gate gas-struts go bad in just a few years anyway, that's normal.
They arn't real cheap though. NAPA sells them.
> Rear bumper seems likes it's not fastened on strongly.
The rear bumper is only held on by a slider clip on each side and
a handfull of plastic reusable popthingies. Some under the bumper and the
rest under the tread plate.
> Next. I checked tranny fluid-- it was about empty.
You found the reason for the slip. Long as it wasn't dry, adding
more fluid should be all you need. Although I'd pesonally drop the
pan and clean the filter and inspect just to be sure.
> Power steering fluid also near empty.
Not a biggie, nothing gets damaged long as there is a little fluid in there.
> She's the 2nd owner. Bought it in 97 with 78K. The rest of the miles are hers
> as detailed in the OP.
>
> She's not done any major maintenence, only oil/filter, brakes, she seems to
> recall some "pump" that she changed.
>
> She's not sure if she ever did a tune-up. Doesn't look like it. The Alt./AC
> belt seems like it might not have to much time left- it exhibits some
> cracking.
If the unibelt has any cracks it should be replaced pronto. Again, not a difficult
thing to do and NAPA/autozone/pepboys has the belt. I personally prefer Dayco Polycog.
> Driving it on the highway seemed fine, just that when "flooring" it, say from
> 60 to go to 75 or 80, there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it
> accelerates quickly.
>
> She's been using 87 octane always-- perhaps build-up.
Could be. At any rate you should do the ignition system, cap, rotor, wires, and
plugs. The plugs will tell you what's going on. By the way, I think the 5.2 wanted
at least 91. But that depends on altitude. The lower you are the higher octane
you probably need.
> I brought it to a mechanic. Hooked up the computer, and the car wasn't
> reporting any error codes. Engine idle seemed low to me, and the computer
> reported it between 600-640. I believe that's low.
low, but not by much. no-codes is good.
> The oil gauge also occassionally "bounced" from 40 to 80, but the mech said
> that is probably a faulty sensor since it wasnt jumping wildly/constanly, and
> the engine idle and engine running is basically smooth.
Loose or dirty connector to the pressure sender.
> Left side of the throttle-arm (the tab you can bend to adjust the rpm while
> idling) are 2 cables "facing" one another, each cables' end, covered by a
> black plastic cap (like a pen cap). Mechanic said one is for cruise ctrl,
> other is for the transmission. The end of each wasn't connected to, or
> otherwise hooked up to anynthing (like the throttle adjuster I guess). Both
> he said should be replaced.
The ends do. The tranny cable (kickdown cable) is important as it clues your
transmission into shifting down when you open the throttle all the way.
> The transmission cable was loose/had alot of play. He indicated that by
> replacing it, or otherwise using some type of kludge to tighten it, the car
> would have more "punch" when flooring it.
The transmission kickdown cable has an adjuster. You push the little button in
and take up the slack. It then ratchets back to where it is supposed to be.
> I don't know if the cruise works, neither does she. I didn't test it. I
> assume it doesn't.
>
> Some/all of the motor mounts need to be replaced.
A pain, but not impossible. Believable in a vehicle that old. I'm on
my second pair. You will also have a transmission mount that will need
to be replaced at the same time or the engine will not sit properly.
> Underneath, the mechanic noted a very small amount of oil when looking up
> into the engine- nothing major there, but, the power steering pump has a leak
> so either it's a hose to/from the pump, or the pump itself would have to be
> replaced. I'd have to fill it and see how quickly it leaks out.
Leaks are commonly, the return hose at bottle and the O ring between the bottle
and pump.
> At the middle-rear of the underside, the differential/transfer case was wet.
> He said that is why there's no transmission fluid in the car- that it leaked
> out from there-- and that possibly the case could have to be replaced-- which
> is expensive.
The case has it's own fluid and is not part of the transmission.
There is one bolt on top and one lower. depending on the transfer case
it's just ATF+3 and you take both bolts out, drain, put in the lower one
and fill till it comes out the top hole, then put the bolt back in. Hardest
part is squeezing in the fluid.
Now if it's ran dry the chain inside could have been damaged. That's fairly
unlikely though.
> The console inside is indicating "SERVICE 4WD SWITCH", which he believes is
> located on top of the transfer case, and that perhaps it got fouled by being
> exposed to leaking tranny fluid.
Yep. Problem is to replace the switch on some you have to take the case out.
All it does is change the tire lights and 4hi 4lo indicator. Not a critical
circuit.
> Now a question on the differential/transfer case. My friend (on his 95), says
> that perhaps the case just needs the gasket to be changed, and not the case
> itself (he had this done). My friend seems to believe that the transmission
> fluid being empty is unrelated to the wet diff/trans case. He says that the
> case uses "it's own" fluid, and that to be filled the mechanic drops it down
> from the underside and "injects" the fluid in there, and not from under the
> hood.
If you want to get an idea on parts costs use these folks. They are a dealer
I've used in the past but they don't try to screw you with markup.
http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is this Jeep worth it?
J. C. Duchock wrote:
>wouldn't hurt. If you can, have the underside cleaned and then rechecked.
>If you are able, get some tranny dye in. Under a florescent light it make
This proly wont happen at this point-- not enough time..
> You haven't mentioned rust. Is the under carriage solid? Were the
>repairs done properly? Does the vehicle track straight?
No unusual rust underneath (just the center pipe (resonator I suppose)) which
I don't think is too unusual.
If by "tracks" straight, you mean "drives" straight, it seems to drive/ride
(street or highway) fine.
Jim
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
>wouldn't hurt. If you can, have the underside cleaned and then rechecked.
>If you are able, get some tranny dye in. Under a florescent light it make
This proly wont happen at this point-- not enough time..
> You haven't mentioned rust. Is the under carriage solid? Were the
>repairs done properly? Does the vehicle track straight?
No unusual rust underneath (just the center pipe (resonator I suppose)) which
I don't think is too unusual.
If by "tracks" straight, you mean "drives" straight, it seems to drive/ride
(street or highway) fine.
Jim
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is this Jeep worth it?
J. C. Duchock wrote:
>wouldn't hurt. If you can, have the underside cleaned and then rechecked.
>If you are able, get some tranny dye in. Under a florescent light it make
This proly wont happen at this point-- not enough time..
> You haven't mentioned rust. Is the under carriage solid? Were the
>repairs done properly? Does the vehicle track straight?
No unusual rust underneath (just the center pipe (resonator I suppose)) which
I don't think is too unusual.
If by "tracks" straight, you mean "drives" straight, it seems to drive/ride
(street or highway) fine.
Jim
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
>wouldn't hurt. If you can, have the underside cleaned and then rechecked.
>If you are able, get some tranny dye in. Under a florescent light it make
This proly wont happen at this point-- not enough time..
> You haven't mentioned rust. Is the under carriage solid? Were the
>repairs done properly? Does the vehicle track straight?
No unusual rust underneath (just the center pipe (resonator I suppose)) which
I don't think is too unusual.
If by "tracks" straight, you mean "drives" straight, it seems to drive/ride
(street or highway) fine.
Jim
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is this Jeep worth it?
J. C. Duchock wrote:
>wouldn't hurt. If you can, have the underside cleaned and then rechecked.
>If you are able, get some tranny dye in. Under a florescent light it make
This proly wont happen at this point-- not enough time..
> You haven't mentioned rust. Is the under carriage solid? Were the
>repairs done properly? Does the vehicle track straight?
No unusual rust underneath (just the center pipe (resonator I suppose)) which
I don't think is too unusual.
If by "tracks" straight, you mean "drives" straight, it seems to drive/ride
(street or highway) fine.
Jim
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
>wouldn't hurt. If you can, have the underside cleaned and then rechecked.
>If you are able, get some tranny dye in. Under a florescent light it make
This proly wont happen at this point-- not enough time..
> You haven't mentioned rust. Is the under carriage solid? Were the
>repairs done properly? Does the vehicle track straight?
No unusual rust underneath (just the center pipe (resonator I suppose)) which
I don't think is too unusual.
If by "tracks" straight, you mean "drives" straight, it seems to drive/ride
(street or highway) fine.
Jim
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is this Jeep worth it?
DougW wrote:
>Depending on what's broken it could be as simple as the plastic pawl or as
>involved as the lock mechanisim. You couldn't open it from inside or outside?
Not from in or outside.
>You found the reason for the slip. Long as it wasn't dry, adding
>more fluid should be all you need. Although I'd pesonally drop the
>pan and clean the filter and inspect just to be sure.
This is good to know. I put 2 quarts (well my mech did) at the time. Seemed
OK after for the 20 min ride back.
>my second pair. You will also have a transmission mount that will need
>to be replaced at the same time or the engine will not sit properly.
You mean, along with the motor mounts I mentioned, correct?
>The case has it's own fluid and is not part of the transmission.
>There is one bolt on top and one lower. depending on the transfer case
>it's just ATF+3 and you take both bolts out, drain, put in the lower one
>and fill till it comes out the top hole, then put the bolt back in. Hardest
>part is squeezing in the fluid.
OK. So, my friend was right. That diff/trans. case, has its' OWN fluid,
separate from the tranny fluid that gets "loaded" into the front, under the
hood.
So then why would the tranny fluid have been near empty? The mech said there
didn't appear to be any tranny leaks at the front (and I didn't see any
earlier in the day when I looked underneath either), and that it should not
be empty, UNLESS it leaked out-- then he noted the diff/trans case being
"wet" and said, "..because it proly leaked out here."
Great info!
Thx
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
>Depending on what's broken it could be as simple as the plastic pawl or as
>involved as the lock mechanisim. You couldn't open it from inside or outside?
Not from in or outside.
>You found the reason for the slip. Long as it wasn't dry, adding
>more fluid should be all you need. Although I'd pesonally drop the
>pan and clean the filter and inspect just to be sure.
This is good to know. I put 2 quarts (well my mech did) at the time. Seemed
OK after for the 20 min ride back.
>my second pair. You will also have a transmission mount that will need
>to be replaced at the same time or the engine will not sit properly.
You mean, along with the motor mounts I mentioned, correct?
>The case has it's own fluid and is not part of the transmission.
>There is one bolt on top and one lower. depending on the transfer case
>it's just ATF+3 and you take both bolts out, drain, put in the lower one
>and fill till it comes out the top hole, then put the bolt back in. Hardest
>part is squeezing in the fluid.
OK. So, my friend was right. That diff/trans. case, has its' OWN fluid,
separate from the tranny fluid that gets "loaded" into the front, under the
hood.
So then why would the tranny fluid have been near empty? The mech said there
didn't appear to be any tranny leaks at the front (and I didn't see any
earlier in the day when I looked underneath either), and that it should not
be empty, UNLESS it leaked out-- then he noted the diff/trans case being
"wet" and said, "..because it proly leaked out here."
Great info!
Thx
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is this Jeep worth it?
DougW wrote:
>Depending on what's broken it could be as simple as the plastic pawl or as
>involved as the lock mechanisim. You couldn't open it from inside or outside?
Not from in or outside.
>You found the reason for the slip. Long as it wasn't dry, adding
>more fluid should be all you need. Although I'd pesonally drop the
>pan and clean the filter and inspect just to be sure.
This is good to know. I put 2 quarts (well my mech did) at the time. Seemed
OK after for the 20 min ride back.
>my second pair. You will also have a transmission mount that will need
>to be replaced at the same time or the engine will not sit properly.
You mean, along with the motor mounts I mentioned, correct?
>The case has it's own fluid and is not part of the transmission.
>There is one bolt on top and one lower. depending on the transfer case
>it's just ATF+3 and you take both bolts out, drain, put in the lower one
>and fill till it comes out the top hole, then put the bolt back in. Hardest
>part is squeezing in the fluid.
OK. So, my friend was right. That diff/trans. case, has its' OWN fluid,
separate from the tranny fluid that gets "loaded" into the front, under the
hood.
So then why would the tranny fluid have been near empty? The mech said there
didn't appear to be any tranny leaks at the front (and I didn't see any
earlier in the day when I looked underneath either), and that it should not
be empty, UNLESS it leaked out-- then he noted the diff/trans case being
"wet" and said, "..because it proly leaked out here."
Great info!
Thx
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
>Depending on what's broken it could be as simple as the plastic pawl or as
>involved as the lock mechanisim. You couldn't open it from inside or outside?
Not from in or outside.
>You found the reason for the slip. Long as it wasn't dry, adding
>more fluid should be all you need. Although I'd pesonally drop the
>pan and clean the filter and inspect just to be sure.
This is good to know. I put 2 quarts (well my mech did) at the time. Seemed
OK after for the 20 min ride back.
>my second pair. You will also have a transmission mount that will need
>to be replaced at the same time or the engine will not sit properly.
You mean, along with the motor mounts I mentioned, correct?
>The case has it's own fluid and is not part of the transmission.
>There is one bolt on top and one lower. depending on the transfer case
>it's just ATF+3 and you take both bolts out, drain, put in the lower one
>and fill till it comes out the top hole, then put the bolt back in. Hardest
>part is squeezing in the fluid.
OK. So, my friend was right. That diff/trans. case, has its' OWN fluid,
separate from the tranny fluid that gets "loaded" into the front, under the
hood.
So then why would the tranny fluid have been near empty? The mech said there
didn't appear to be any tranny leaks at the front (and I didn't see any
earlier in the day when I looked underneath either), and that it should not
be empty, UNLESS it leaked out-- then he noted the diff/trans case being
"wet" and said, "..because it proly leaked out here."
Great info!
Thx
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is this Jeep worth it?
DougW wrote:
>Depending on what's broken it could be as simple as the plastic pawl or as
>involved as the lock mechanisim. You couldn't open it from inside or outside?
Not from in or outside.
>You found the reason for the slip. Long as it wasn't dry, adding
>more fluid should be all you need. Although I'd pesonally drop the
>pan and clean the filter and inspect just to be sure.
This is good to know. I put 2 quarts (well my mech did) at the time. Seemed
OK after for the 20 min ride back.
>my second pair. You will also have a transmission mount that will need
>to be replaced at the same time or the engine will not sit properly.
You mean, along with the motor mounts I mentioned, correct?
>The case has it's own fluid and is not part of the transmission.
>There is one bolt on top and one lower. depending on the transfer case
>it's just ATF+3 and you take both bolts out, drain, put in the lower one
>and fill till it comes out the top hole, then put the bolt back in. Hardest
>part is squeezing in the fluid.
OK. So, my friend was right. That diff/trans. case, has its' OWN fluid,
separate from the tranny fluid that gets "loaded" into the front, under the
hood.
So then why would the tranny fluid have been near empty? The mech said there
didn't appear to be any tranny leaks at the front (and I didn't see any
earlier in the day when I looked underneath either), and that it should not
be empty, UNLESS it leaked out-- then he noted the diff/trans case being
"wet" and said, "..because it proly leaked out here."
Great info!
Thx
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
>Depending on what's broken it could be as simple as the plastic pawl or as
>involved as the lock mechanisim. You couldn't open it from inside or outside?
Not from in or outside.
>You found the reason for the slip. Long as it wasn't dry, adding
>more fluid should be all you need. Although I'd pesonally drop the
>pan and clean the filter and inspect just to be sure.
This is good to know. I put 2 quarts (well my mech did) at the time. Seemed
OK after for the 20 min ride back.
>my second pair. You will also have a transmission mount that will need
>to be replaced at the same time or the engine will not sit properly.
You mean, along with the motor mounts I mentioned, correct?
>The case has it's own fluid and is not part of the transmission.
>There is one bolt on top and one lower. depending on the transfer case
>it's just ATF+3 and you take both bolts out, drain, put in the lower one
>and fill till it comes out the top hole, then put the bolt back in. Hardest
>part is squeezing in the fluid.
OK. So, my friend was right. That diff/trans. case, has its' OWN fluid,
separate from the tranny fluid that gets "loaded" into the front, under the
hood.
So then why would the tranny fluid have been near empty? The mech said there
didn't appear to be any tranny leaks at the front (and I didn't see any
earlier in the day when I looked underneath either), and that it should not
be empty, UNLESS it leaked out-- then he noted the diff/trans case being
"wet" and said, "..because it proly leaked out here."
Great info!
Thx
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is this Jeep worth it?
Excellent advice from all so far!
You guys are terrific, more than I could've hoped for!
I probably won't have a chance/be able to take it to another mechanic, but I
will make an attempt..
Most likely, I'll just have to make a decision based on all that is being
said here.
Thanks again guys!
Feel free to keep it comin'! It's a tremendous help!
Jim
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
You guys are terrific, more than I could've hoped for!
I probably won't have a chance/be able to take it to another mechanic, but I
will make an attempt..
Most likely, I'll just have to make a decision based on all that is being
said here.
Thanks again guys!
Feel free to keep it comin'! It's a tremendous help!
Jim
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is this Jeep worth it?
Excellent advice from all so far!
You guys are terrific, more than I could've hoped for!
I probably won't have a chance/be able to take it to another mechanic, but I
will make an attempt..
Most likely, I'll just have to make a decision based on all that is being
said here.
Thanks again guys!
Feel free to keep it comin'! It's a tremendous help!
Jim
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
You guys are terrific, more than I could've hoped for!
I probably won't have a chance/be able to take it to another mechanic, but I
will make an attempt..
Most likely, I'll just have to make a decision based on all that is being
said here.
Thanks again guys!
Feel free to keep it comin'! It's a tremendous help!
Jim
--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
