Mike Romain

If that is how the new ones work, then the OP is likely lucky and it's
only the back of the tranny pan gasket leaking and blowing back over the
t-case. He says he has obvious external leaks to the rear according to
the mechanic and drips on the ground.

Mike

Earle Horton wrote:
>
> The New Process aluminum body transfer cases have a fill/level plug on the
> back. It takes a pretty big wrench, a little over an inch. On the ones I
> have seen, the wrench flats aren't very deep, so a socket is recommended.
> Yeah, they are sealed units, but if you take out the fill plug, and a quart
> or more of fluid gushes out, that fluid came from a leaky transmission
> output seal.
>
> Earle
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:436626BC.D080CFC8@sympatico.ca...
> > The transmission is a one piece sealed unit.
> >
> > The transfer case is also a one piece sealed unit.
> >
> > They normally take different types of fluid even.
> >
> > If the transmission is low on fluid, it has a leak. This leak has
> > nothing at all to do with the transfer case, the speedometer or the
> > tailshaft.
> >
> > You must go under and remove a bolt on the top side of the transfer case
> > to check the fluid level in the transfer case.
> >
> > Transmissions leak either up front between the tranny and engine, or the
> > pan gasket leaks (by far the most common leak) or the rear seal leaks
> > and drips out 'between' the transmission and transfer case.
> >
> > Non of the above means you need to replace anything except 'maybe' a
> > seal or maybe just tighten a few bolts on the pan gasket or give it a
> > new pan gasket.
> >
> > I would look at the pan gasket closely. If it has silicone sealer on
> > it, someone changed the oil and likely the bolts just came loose like
> > they normally do after a sloppy pan gasket change or they used the old
> > gasket.
> >
> > If you try turning the transmission pan bolts by hand, I'll bet you find
> > some finger loose.
> >
> > Then if it is only down a pint or so when you check the level hot, (the
> > dipstick says whether to check it in neutral or park and running) I
> > would recommend you ignore the leak for a couple months to see how much
> > it does indeed leak. If it took 100,000 miles to go down a pint,
> > well.....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > "jimboe via CarKB.com" wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks for all the advice, pro and con. I've bought it and now I'll ask
> for
> > > candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
> > >
> > > I plan to:
> > > 1) Tune-up: Ignintion wires, cap, rotor, plugs.
> > > 2) Power steering pump: Replace the O-ring or the return hose or the
> pump
> > > itself (as DougW suggessted).
> > > 3) Unibelt
> > > 4) Motor mounts and tranny mount
> > >
> > > I stated ealrier that when "flooring" it, say from 60 to go to 75 or 80,
> > > there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it accelerates
> quickly.
> > > I attribute that to engine carbon build-up and that the truck has been
> fed
> > > only 87.
> > >
> > > What's the best way to remedy that build-up? Has anyone every tried
> something
> > > like the Excite 3 step fuel injector tune-up, where in one of the steps,
> you
> > > allow the vehicle to suck some cleaner into the intake manifold via one
> of
> > > the vaccuum hoses, like the one on the pcv valve.
> > >
> > > Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
> > > description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
> > > transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
> > > (transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
> > >
> > > Is that correct?
> > >
> > > Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you
> guys
> > > detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you
> speak of
> > > possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
> > > converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
> > > can't find reference to them in Haynes.
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Message posted via CarKB.com
> > > http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
> >

Mike Romain

If that is how the new ones work, then the OP is likely lucky and it's
only the back of the tranny pan gasket leaking and blowing back over the
t-case. He says he has obvious external leaks to the rear according to
the mechanic and drips on the ground.

Mike

Earle Horton wrote:
>
> The New Process aluminum body transfer cases have a fill/level plug on the
> back. It takes a pretty big wrench, a little over an inch. On the ones I
> have seen, the wrench flats aren't very deep, so a socket is recommended.
> Yeah, they are sealed units, but if you take out the fill plug, and a quart
> or more of fluid gushes out, that fluid came from a leaky transmission
> output seal.
>
> Earle
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:436626BC.D080CFC8@sympatico.ca...
> > The transmission is a one piece sealed unit.
> >
> > The transfer case is also a one piece sealed unit.
> >
> > They normally take different types of fluid even.
> >
> > If the transmission is low on fluid, it has a leak. This leak has
> > nothing at all to do with the transfer case, the speedometer or the
> > tailshaft.
> >
> > You must go under and remove a bolt on the top side of the transfer case
> > to check the fluid level in the transfer case.
> >
> > Transmissions leak either up front between the tranny and engine, or the
> > pan gasket leaks (by far the most common leak) or the rear seal leaks
> > and drips out 'between' the transmission and transfer case.
> >
> > Non of the above means you need to replace anything except 'maybe' a
> > seal or maybe just tighten a few bolts on the pan gasket or give it a
> > new pan gasket.
> >
> > I would look at the pan gasket closely. If it has silicone sealer on
> > it, someone changed the oil and likely the bolts just came loose like
> > they normally do after a sloppy pan gasket change or they used the old
> > gasket.
> >
> > If you try turning the transmission pan bolts by hand, I'll bet you find
> > some finger loose.
> >
> > Then if it is only down a pint or so when you check the level hot, (the
> > dipstick says whether to check it in neutral or park and running) I
> > would recommend you ignore the leak for a couple months to see how much
> > it does indeed leak. If it took 100,000 miles to go down a pint,
> > well.....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > "jimboe via CarKB.com" wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks for all the advice, pro and con. I've bought it and now I'll ask
> for
> > > candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
> > >
> > > I plan to:
> > > 1) Tune-up: Ignintion wires, cap, rotor, plugs.
> > > 2) Power steering pump: Replace the O-ring or the return hose or the
> pump
> > > itself (as DougW suggessted).
> > > 3) Unibelt
> > > 4) Motor mounts and tranny mount
> > >
> > > I stated ealrier that when "flooring" it, say from 60 to go to 75 or 80,
> > > there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it accelerates
> quickly.
> > > I attribute that to engine carbon build-up and that the truck has been
> fed
> > > only 87.
> > >
> > > What's the best way to remedy that build-up? Has anyone every tried
> something
> > > like the Excite 3 step fuel injector tune-up, where in one of the steps,
> you
> > > allow the vehicle to suck some cleaner into the intake manifold via one
> of
> > > the vaccuum hoses, like the one on the pcv valve.
> > >
> > > Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
> > > description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
> > > transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
> > > (transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
> > >
> > > Is that correct?
> > >
> > > Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you
> guys
> > > detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you
> speak of
> > > possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
> > > converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
> > > can't find reference to them in Haynes.
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Message posted via CarKB.com
> > > http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
> >

Mike Romain

If that is how the new ones work, then the OP is likely lucky and it's
only the back of the tranny pan gasket leaking and blowing back over the
t-case. He says he has obvious external leaks to the rear according to
the mechanic and drips on the ground.

Mike

Earle Horton wrote:
>
> The New Process aluminum body transfer cases have a fill/level plug on the
> back. It takes a pretty big wrench, a little over an inch. On the ones I
> have seen, the wrench flats aren't very deep, so a socket is recommended.
> Yeah, they are sealed units, but if you take out the fill plug, and a quart
> or more of fluid gushes out, that fluid came from a leaky transmission
> output seal.
>
> Earle
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:436626BC.D080CFC8@sympatico.ca...
> > The transmission is a one piece sealed unit.
> >
> > The transfer case is also a one piece sealed unit.
> >
> > They normally take different types of fluid even.
> >
> > If the transmission is low on fluid, it has a leak. This leak has
> > nothing at all to do with the transfer case, the speedometer or the
> > tailshaft.
> >
> > You must go under and remove a bolt on the top side of the transfer case
> > to check the fluid level in the transfer case.
> >
> > Transmissions leak either up front between the tranny and engine, or the
> > pan gasket leaks (by far the most common leak) or the rear seal leaks
> > and drips out 'between' the transmission and transfer case.
> >
> > Non of the above means you need to replace anything except 'maybe' a
> > seal or maybe just tighten a few bolts on the pan gasket or give it a
> > new pan gasket.
> >
> > I would look at the pan gasket closely. If it has silicone sealer on
> > it, someone changed the oil and likely the bolts just came loose like
> > they normally do after a sloppy pan gasket change or they used the old
> > gasket.
> >
> > If you try turning the transmission pan bolts by hand, I'll bet you find
> > some finger loose.
> >
> > Then if it is only down a pint or so when you check the level hot, (the
> > dipstick says whether to check it in neutral or park and running) I
> > would recommend you ignore the leak for a couple months to see how much
> > it does indeed leak. If it took 100,000 miles to go down a pint,
> > well.....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > "jimboe via CarKB.com" wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks for all the advice, pro and con. I've bought it and now I'll ask
> for
> > > candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
> > >
> > > I plan to:
> > > 1) Tune-up: Ignintion wires, cap, rotor, plugs.
> > > 2) Power steering pump: Replace the O-ring or the return hose or the
> pump
> > > itself (as DougW suggessted).
> > > 3) Unibelt
> > > 4) Motor mounts and tranny mount
> > >
> > > I stated ealrier that when "flooring" it, say from 60 to go to 75 or 80,
> > > there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it accelerates
> quickly.
> > > I attribute that to engine carbon build-up and that the truck has been
> fed
> > > only 87.
> > >
> > > What's the best way to remedy that build-up? Has anyone every tried
> something
> > > like the Excite 3 step fuel injector tune-up, where in one of the steps,
> you
> > > allow the vehicle to suck some cleaner into the intake manifold via one
> of
> > > the vaccuum hoses, like the one on the pcv valve.
> > >
> > > Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
> > > description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
> > > transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
> > > (transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
> > >
> > > Is that correct?
> > >
> > > Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you
> guys
> > > detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you
> speak of
> > > possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
> > > converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
> > > can't find reference to them in Haynes.
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Message posted via CarKB.com
> > > http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
> >

Jeff Strickland

"jimboe via CarKB.com" <u15312@uwe> wrote in message
news:56a5f0e7319a2@uwe...
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>>Walk, don't run to the nearest exit (unless you like to fix this kind of
>>stuff. (Since you asked where the dip sticks are, my guess is you don't do
>>much of this kind of thing.)
> I didn't ask where the dip stick(s) were, only where the tranny one is in
> the
> event that it was not obvious, so I could save the 30 seconds in looking
> (principle of laziness), like on my Honda. As I explained before, I found
> it
> immediately. Incidentally, the one on my Honda is not red, has a tiny loop
> not a handle, is way below and to the left of the distribiutor,
> practically
> hidden right beneath a large hose. In fact, you cant see it unless you
> move
> the hose over an inch.
>



I don't see that any of that is relevent.

You asked if the vehicle was worth it. I said no. I wouldn't buy it, and I
can fix most of this stuff without asking where the dip stick is. If you
gotta ask if it's a good deal, it probably isn't.

Jeff Strickland

"jimboe via CarKB.com" <u15312@uwe> wrote in message
news:56a5f0e7319a2@uwe...
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>>Walk, don't run to the nearest exit (unless you like to fix this kind of
>>stuff. (Since you asked where the dip sticks are, my guess is you don't do
>>much of this kind of thing.)
> I didn't ask where the dip stick(s) were, only where the tranny one is in
> the
> event that it was not obvious, so I could save the 30 seconds in looking
> (principle of laziness), like on my Honda. As I explained before, I found
> it
> immediately. Incidentally, the one on my Honda is not red, has a tiny loop
> not a handle, is way below and to the left of the distribiutor,
> practically
> hidden right beneath a large hose. In fact, you cant see it unless you
> move
> the hose over an inch.
>



I don't see that any of that is relevent.

You asked if the vehicle was worth it. I said no. I wouldn't buy it, and I
can fix most of this stuff without asking where the dip stick is. If you
gotta ask if it's a good deal, it probably isn't.

Jeff Strickland

"jimboe via CarKB.com" <u15312@uwe> wrote in message
news:56a5f0e7319a2@uwe...
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>>Walk, don't run to the nearest exit (unless you like to fix this kind of
>>stuff. (Since you asked where the dip sticks are, my guess is you don't do
>>much of this kind of thing.)
> I didn't ask where the dip stick(s) were, only where the tranny one is in
> the
> event that it was not obvious, so I could save the 30 seconds in looking
> (principle of laziness), like on my Honda. As I explained before, I found
> it
> immediately. Incidentally, the one on my Honda is not red, has a tiny loop
> not a handle, is way below and to the left of the distribiutor,
> practically
> hidden right beneath a large hose. In fact, you cant see it unless you
> move
> the hose over an inch.
>



I don't see that any of that is relevent.

You asked if the vehicle was worth it. I said no. I wouldn't buy it, and I
can fix most of this stuff without asking where the dip stick is. If you
gotta ask if it's a good deal, it probably isn't.

Will Honea

"Top end cleaner" as in ATF or water? Everytime this comes up I still
have images of Mike running a pint of ATF through the intake and
smoking out the neighbors. We could probably help New Orleans'
mosquito problem, though, if enough of us just drove down and
de-carboned our engines with a pint of ATF all at once.

Seriously, blasting the cylinders clean will help a lot, but I've seen
a lot of reports from people saying that the V-8 took something above
regular to stop it pinging from day one. Thing is, if it has been fed
87 octane for that many miles pinging all that time, you should have
other problems as well - like burned valves, misses, rough running,
etc. so there's a fair chance that blowing the carbon out will resolve
nearly all the problem.

On Mon, 31 Oct 2005 18:58:02 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

> On the pinging, i would just tune it up and take it for a good highway
> run. This will clean up most of the junk inside. If it still pings,
> then I would think about a top end clean job. The type that gets sucked
> in works best in my opinion.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> "jimboe via CarKB.com" wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for all the advice, pro and con. I've bought it and now I'll ask for
> > candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
> >
> > I plan to:
> > 1) Tune-up: Ignintion wires, cap, rotor, plugs.
> > 2) Power steering pump: Replace the O-ring or the return hose or the pump
> > itself (as DougW suggessted).
> > 3) Unibelt
> > 4) Motor mounts and tranny mount
> >
> > I stated ealrier that when "flooring" it, say from 60 to go to 75 or 80,
> > there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it accelerates quickly.
> > I attribute that to engine carbon build-up and that the truck has been fed
> > only 87.
> >
> > What's the best way to remedy that build-up? Has anyone every tried something
> > like the Excite 3 step fuel injector tune-up, where in one of the steps, you
> > allow the vehicle to suck some cleaner into the intake manifold via one of
> > the vaccuum hoses, like the one on the pcv valve.
> >
> > Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
> > description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
> > transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
> > (transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
> >
> > Is that correct?
> >
> > Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you guys
> > detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you speak of
> > possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
> > converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
> > can't find reference to them in Haynes.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > --
> > Message posted via CarKB.com
> > http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1


--
Will Honea

Will Honea

"Top end cleaner" as in ATF or water? Everytime this comes up I still
have images of Mike running a pint of ATF through the intake and
smoking out the neighbors. We could probably help New Orleans'
mosquito problem, though, if enough of us just drove down and
de-carboned our engines with a pint of ATF all at once.

Seriously, blasting the cylinders clean will help a lot, but I've seen
a lot of reports from people saying that the V-8 took something above
regular to stop it pinging from day one. Thing is, if it has been fed
87 octane for that many miles pinging all that time, you should have
other problems as well - like burned valves, misses, rough running,
etc. so there's a fair chance that blowing the carbon out will resolve
nearly all the problem.

On Mon, 31 Oct 2005 18:58:02 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

> On the pinging, i would just tune it up and take it for a good highway
> run. This will clean up most of the junk inside. If it still pings,
> then I would think about a top end clean job. The type that gets sucked
> in works best in my opinion.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> "jimboe via CarKB.com" wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for all the advice, pro and con. I've bought it and now I'll ask for
> > candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
> >
> > I plan to:
> > 1) Tune-up: Ignintion wires, cap, rotor, plugs.
> > 2) Power steering pump: Replace the O-ring or the return hose or the pump
> > itself (as DougW suggessted).
> > 3) Unibelt
> > 4) Motor mounts and tranny mount
> >
> > I stated ealrier that when "flooring" it, say from 60 to go to 75 or 80,
> > there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it accelerates quickly.
> > I attribute that to engine carbon build-up and that the truck has been fed
> > only 87.
> >
> > What's the best way to remedy that build-up? Has anyone every tried something
> > like the Excite 3 step fuel injector tune-up, where in one of the steps, you
> > allow the vehicle to suck some cleaner into the intake manifold via one of
> > the vaccuum hoses, like the one on the pcv valve.
> >
> > Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
> > description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
> > transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
> > (transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
> >
> > Is that correct?
> >
> > Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you guys
> > detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you speak of
> > possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
> > converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
> > can't find reference to them in Haynes.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > --
> > Message posted via CarKB.com
> > http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1


--
Will Honea

Will Honea

"Top end cleaner" as in ATF or water? Everytime this comes up I still
have images of Mike running a pint of ATF through the intake and
smoking out the neighbors. We could probably help New Orleans'
mosquito problem, though, if enough of us just drove down and
de-carboned our engines with a pint of ATF all at once.

Seriously, blasting the cylinders clean will help a lot, but I've seen
a lot of reports from people saying that the V-8 took something above
regular to stop it pinging from day one. Thing is, if it has been fed
87 octane for that many miles pinging all that time, you should have
other problems as well - like burned valves, misses, rough running,
etc. so there's a fair chance that blowing the carbon out will resolve
nearly all the problem.

On Mon, 31 Oct 2005 18:58:02 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

> On the pinging, i would just tune it up and take it for a good highway
> run. This will clean up most of the junk inside. If it still pings,
> then I would think about a top end clean job. The type that gets sucked
> in works best in my opinion.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> "jimboe via CarKB.com" wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for all the advice, pro and con. I've bought it and now I'll ask for
> > candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
> >
> > I plan to:
> > 1) Tune-up: Ignintion wires, cap, rotor, plugs.
> > 2) Power steering pump: Replace the O-ring or the return hose or the pump
> > itself (as DougW suggessted).
> > 3) Unibelt
> > 4) Motor mounts and tranny mount
> >
> > I stated ealrier that when "flooring" it, say from 60 to go to 75 or 80,
> > there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it accelerates quickly.
> > I attribute that to engine carbon build-up and that the truck has been fed
> > only 87.
> >
> > What's the best way to remedy that build-up? Has anyone every tried something
> > like the Excite 3 step fuel injector tune-up, where in one of the steps, you
> > allow the vehicle to suck some cleaner into the intake manifold via one of
> > the vaccuum hoses, like the one on the pcv valve.
> >
> > Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
> > description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
> > transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
> > (transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
> >
> > Is that correct?
> >
> > Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you guys
> > detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you speak of
> > possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
> > converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
> > can't find reference to them in Haynes.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > --
> > Message posted via CarKB.com
> > http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1


--
Will Honea

Mike Romain

LOL!

Ohh the smoke outs I have seen and done....

Mike

Will Honea wrote:
>
> "Top end cleaner" as in ATF or water? Everytime this comes up I still
> have images of Mike running a pint of ATF through the intake and
> smoking out the neighbors. We could probably help New Orleans'
> mosquito problem, though, if enough of us just drove down and
> de-carboned our engines with a pint of ATF all at once.
>
> Seriously, blasting the cylinders clean will help a lot, but I've seen
> a lot of reports from people saying that the V-8 took something above
> regular to stop it pinging from day one. Thing is, if it has been fed
> 87 octane for that many miles pinging all that time, you should have
> other problems as well - like burned valves, misses, rough running,
> etc. so there's a fair chance that blowing the carbon out will resolve
> nearly all the problem.
>
> On Mon, 31 Oct 2005 18:58:02 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> > On the pinging, i would just tune it up and take it for a good highway
> > run. This will clean up most of the junk inside. If it still pings,
> > then I would think about a top end clean job. The type that gets sucked
> > in works best in my opinion.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > "jimboe via CarKB.com" wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks for all the advice, pro and con. I've bought it and now I'll ask for
> > > candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
> > >
> > > I plan to:
> > > 1) Tune-up: Ignintion wires, cap, rotor, plugs.
> > > 2) Power steering pump: Replace the O-ring or the return hose or the pump
> > > itself (as DougW suggessted).
> > > 3) Unibelt
> > > 4) Motor mounts and tranny mount
> > >
> > > I stated ealrier that when "flooring" it, say from 60 to go to 75 or 80,
> > > there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it accelerates quickly.
> > > I attribute that to engine carbon build-up and that the truck has been fed
> > > only 87.
> > >
> > > What's the best way to remedy that build-up? Has anyone every tried something
> > > like the Excite 3 step fuel injector tune-up, where in one of the steps, you
> > > allow the vehicle to suck some cleaner into the intake manifold via one of
> > > the vaccuum hoses, like the one on the pcv valve.
> > >
> > > Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
> > > description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
> > > transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
> > > (transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
> > >
> > > Is that correct?
> > >
> > > Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you guys
> > > detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you speak of
> > > possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
> > > converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
> > > can't find reference to them in Haynes.
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Message posted via CarKB.com
> > > http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
>
> --
> Will Honea