Is this Jeep worth it?
#141
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is this Jeep worth it?
Doug,
If I understand what you wrote, the cable you refer to as the transmission
kickdown cable is referred to as the "throttle valve" cable in Haynes
(According to book, only 1994 onward have kickdown. This is a 93). Your
description on adjusting that cable (by pushing the button...) assumes the
end of it is physically connected, or hooked onto the throttle body lever,
correct?
You see as I said, in my case it is not connected to anything, it is just
"hanging" /"dangling" there-- sort of loose, as is the cruise control linkage
cable.
If I follow, the throttle valve cable gets connected on the outside of, and
the cruise control linkage cable to the inside of, the throttle body lever.
Can the slack on each cable be taken up and the ends of each re-connected to
the throttle body lever, which is where I assume they are supposed to be
connected (if each connector which I referref to as "a pen cap" is not in
some way physically broken which I suppose would require replacement in that
case)?
Jim
DougW wrote:
> Left side of the throttle-arm (the tab you can bend to adjust the rpm while
> idling) are 2 cables "facing" one another, each cables' end, covered by a
> black plastic cap (like a pen cap). Mechanic said one is for cruise ctrl,
> other is for the transmission. The end of each wasn't connected to, or
> otherwise hooked up to anynthing (like the throttle adjuster I guess). Both
> he said should be replaced.
The ends do. The tranny cable (kickdown cable) is important as it clues your
transmission into shifting down when you open the throttle all the way.
> The transmission cable was loose/had alot of play. He indicated that by
> replacing it, or otherwise using some type of kludge to tighten it, the car
> would have more "punch" when flooring it.
The transmission kickdown cable has an adjuster. You push the little button
in
and take up the slack. It then ratchets back to where it is supposed to be.
> I don't know if the cruise works, neither does she. I didn't test it. I
> assume it doesn't.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
If I understand what you wrote, the cable you refer to as the transmission
kickdown cable is referred to as the "throttle valve" cable in Haynes
(According to book, only 1994 onward have kickdown. This is a 93). Your
description on adjusting that cable (by pushing the button...) assumes the
end of it is physically connected, or hooked onto the throttle body lever,
correct?
You see as I said, in my case it is not connected to anything, it is just
"hanging" /"dangling" there-- sort of loose, as is the cruise control linkage
cable.
If I follow, the throttle valve cable gets connected on the outside of, and
the cruise control linkage cable to the inside of, the throttle body lever.
Can the slack on each cable be taken up and the ends of each re-connected to
the throttle body lever, which is where I assume they are supposed to be
connected (if each connector which I referref to as "a pen cap" is not in
some way physically broken which I suppose would require replacement in that
case)?
Jim
DougW wrote:
> Left side of the throttle-arm (the tab you can bend to adjust the rpm while
> idling) are 2 cables "facing" one another, each cables' end, covered by a
> black plastic cap (like a pen cap). Mechanic said one is for cruise ctrl,
> other is for the transmission. The end of each wasn't connected to, or
> otherwise hooked up to anynthing (like the throttle adjuster I guess). Both
> he said should be replaced.
The ends do. The tranny cable (kickdown cable) is important as it clues your
transmission into shifting down when you open the throttle all the way.
> The transmission cable was loose/had alot of play. He indicated that by
> replacing it, or otherwise using some type of kludge to tighten it, the car
> would have more "punch" when flooring it.
The transmission kickdown cable has an adjuster. You push the little button
in
and take up the slack. It then ratchets back to where it is supposed to be.
> I don't know if the cruise works, neither does she. I didn't test it. I
> assume it doesn't.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
#142
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is this Jeep worth it?
Doug,
If I understand what you wrote, the cable you refer to as the transmission
kickdown cable is referred to as the "throttle valve" cable in Haynes
(According to book, only 1994 onward have kickdown. This is a 93). Your
description on adjusting that cable (by pushing the button...) assumes the
end of it is physically connected, or hooked onto the throttle body lever,
correct?
You see as I said, in my case it is not connected to anything, it is just
"hanging" /"dangling" there-- sort of loose, as is the cruise control linkage
cable.
If I follow, the throttle valve cable gets connected on the outside of, and
the cruise control linkage cable to the inside of, the throttle body lever.
Can the slack on each cable be taken up and the ends of each re-connected to
the throttle body lever, which is where I assume they are supposed to be
connected (if each connector which I referref to as "a pen cap" is not in
some way physically broken which I suppose would require replacement in that
case)?
Jim
DougW wrote:
> Left side of the throttle-arm (the tab you can bend to adjust the rpm while
> idling) are 2 cables "facing" one another, each cables' end, covered by a
> black plastic cap (like a pen cap). Mechanic said one is for cruise ctrl,
> other is for the transmission. The end of each wasn't connected to, or
> otherwise hooked up to anynthing (like the throttle adjuster I guess). Both
> he said should be replaced.
The ends do. The tranny cable (kickdown cable) is important as it clues your
transmission into shifting down when you open the throttle all the way.
> The transmission cable was loose/had alot of play. He indicated that by
> replacing it, or otherwise using some type of kludge to tighten it, the car
> would have more "punch" when flooring it.
The transmission kickdown cable has an adjuster. You push the little button
in
and take up the slack. It then ratchets back to where it is supposed to be.
> I don't know if the cruise works, neither does she. I didn't test it. I
> assume it doesn't.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
If I understand what you wrote, the cable you refer to as the transmission
kickdown cable is referred to as the "throttle valve" cable in Haynes
(According to book, only 1994 onward have kickdown. This is a 93). Your
description on adjusting that cable (by pushing the button...) assumes the
end of it is physically connected, or hooked onto the throttle body lever,
correct?
You see as I said, in my case it is not connected to anything, it is just
"hanging" /"dangling" there-- sort of loose, as is the cruise control linkage
cable.
If I follow, the throttle valve cable gets connected on the outside of, and
the cruise control linkage cable to the inside of, the throttle body lever.
Can the slack on each cable be taken up and the ends of each re-connected to
the throttle body lever, which is where I assume they are supposed to be
connected (if each connector which I referref to as "a pen cap" is not in
some way physically broken which I suppose would require replacement in that
case)?
Jim
DougW wrote:
> Left side of the throttle-arm (the tab you can bend to adjust the rpm while
> idling) are 2 cables "facing" one another, each cables' end, covered by a
> black plastic cap (like a pen cap). Mechanic said one is for cruise ctrl,
> other is for the transmission. The end of each wasn't connected to, or
> otherwise hooked up to anynthing (like the throttle adjuster I guess). Both
> he said should be replaced.
The ends do. The tranny cable (kickdown cable) is important as it clues your
transmission into shifting down when you open the throttle all the way.
> The transmission cable was loose/had alot of play. He indicated that by
> replacing it, or otherwise using some type of kludge to tighten it, the car
> would have more "punch" when flooring it.
The transmission kickdown cable has an adjuster. You push the little button
in
and take up the slack. It then ratchets back to where it is supposed to be.
> I don't know if the cruise works, neither does she. I didn't test it. I
> assume it doesn't.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
#143
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is this Jeep worth it?
Thanks for all the advice, pro and con. I've bought it and now I'll ask for
candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
I plan to:
1) Tune-up: Ignintion wires, cap, rotor, plugs.
2) Power steering pump: Replace the O-ring or the return hose or the pump
itself (as DougW suggessted).
3) Unibelt
4) Motor mounts and tranny mount
I stated ealrier that when "flooring" it, say from 60 to go to 75 or 80,
there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it accelerates quickly.
I attribute that to engine carbon build-up and that the truck has been fed
only 87.
What's the best way to remedy that build-up? Has anyone every tried something
like the Excite 3 step fuel injector tune-up, where in one of the steps, you
allow the vehicle to suck some cleaner into the intake manifold via one of
the vaccuum hoses, like the one on the pcv valve.
Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
(transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
Is that correct?
Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you guys
detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you speak of
possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
can't find reference to them in Haynes.
Thanks.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
I plan to:
1) Tune-up: Ignintion wires, cap, rotor, plugs.
2) Power steering pump: Replace the O-ring or the return hose or the pump
itself (as DougW suggessted).
3) Unibelt
4) Motor mounts and tranny mount
I stated ealrier that when "flooring" it, say from 60 to go to 75 or 80,
there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it accelerates quickly.
I attribute that to engine carbon build-up and that the truck has been fed
only 87.
What's the best way to remedy that build-up? Has anyone every tried something
like the Excite 3 step fuel injector tune-up, where in one of the steps, you
allow the vehicle to suck some cleaner into the intake manifold via one of
the vaccuum hoses, like the one on the pcv valve.
Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
(transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
Is that correct?
Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you guys
detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you speak of
possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
can't find reference to them in Haynes.
Thanks.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
#144
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is this Jeep worth it?
Thanks for all the advice, pro and con. I've bought it and now I'll ask for
candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
I plan to:
1) Tune-up: Ignintion wires, cap, rotor, plugs.
2) Power steering pump: Replace the O-ring or the return hose or the pump
itself (as DougW suggessted).
3) Unibelt
4) Motor mounts and tranny mount
I stated ealrier that when "flooring" it, say from 60 to go to 75 or 80,
there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it accelerates quickly.
I attribute that to engine carbon build-up and that the truck has been fed
only 87.
What's the best way to remedy that build-up? Has anyone every tried something
like the Excite 3 step fuel injector tune-up, where in one of the steps, you
allow the vehicle to suck some cleaner into the intake manifold via one of
the vaccuum hoses, like the one on the pcv valve.
Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
(transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
Is that correct?
Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you guys
detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you speak of
possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
can't find reference to them in Haynes.
Thanks.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
I plan to:
1) Tune-up: Ignintion wires, cap, rotor, plugs.
2) Power steering pump: Replace the O-ring or the return hose or the pump
itself (as DougW suggessted).
3) Unibelt
4) Motor mounts and tranny mount
I stated ealrier that when "flooring" it, say from 60 to go to 75 or 80,
there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it accelerates quickly.
I attribute that to engine carbon build-up and that the truck has been fed
only 87.
What's the best way to remedy that build-up? Has anyone every tried something
like the Excite 3 step fuel injector tune-up, where in one of the steps, you
allow the vehicle to suck some cleaner into the intake manifold via one of
the vaccuum hoses, like the one on the pcv valve.
Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
(transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
Is that correct?
Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you guys
detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you speak of
possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
can't find reference to them in Haynes.
Thanks.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
#145
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is this Jeep worth it?
Thanks for all the advice, pro and con. I've bought it and now I'll ask for
candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
I plan to:
1) Tune-up: Ignintion wires, cap, rotor, plugs.
2) Power steering pump: Replace the O-ring or the return hose or the pump
itself (as DougW suggessted).
3) Unibelt
4) Motor mounts and tranny mount
I stated ealrier that when "flooring" it, say from 60 to go to 75 or 80,
there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it accelerates quickly.
I attribute that to engine carbon build-up and that the truck has been fed
only 87.
What's the best way to remedy that build-up? Has anyone every tried something
like the Excite 3 step fuel injector tune-up, where in one of the steps, you
allow the vehicle to suck some cleaner into the intake manifold via one of
the vaccuum hoses, like the one on the pcv valve.
Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
(transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
Is that correct?
Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you guys
detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you speak of
possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
can't find reference to them in Haynes.
Thanks.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
I plan to:
1) Tune-up: Ignintion wires, cap, rotor, plugs.
2) Power steering pump: Replace the O-ring or the return hose or the pump
itself (as DougW suggessted).
3) Unibelt
4) Motor mounts and tranny mount
I stated ealrier that when "flooring" it, say from 60 to go to 75 or 80,
there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it accelerates quickly.
I attribute that to engine carbon build-up and that the truck has been fed
only 87.
What's the best way to remedy that build-up? Has anyone every tried something
like the Excite 3 step fuel injector tune-up, where in one of the steps, you
allow the vehicle to suck some cleaner into the intake manifold via one of
the vaccuum hoses, like the one on the pcv valve.
Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
(transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
Is that correct?
Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you guys
detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you speak of
possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
can't find reference to them in Haynes.
Thanks.
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
#146
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is this Jeep worth it?
Imagine that you have removed the transfer case and the transmission from
the vehicle, and that the transmission is sitting on your work bench. Go to
the front of the transmission, grasp the torque converter, and slide it out.
It should come out with no effort at all, but be careful as it is fairly
heavy. Behind the torque converter there is a seal pressed into the
transmission, that is a possible source of oil leaking between the engine
and the transmission. This seal mates to a round stub that sticks out the
back of the torque converter. If there is a conspicuous groove in that
stub, then it is time to think about a new torque converter. ¡Cuidado!
Other possible sources of a leak in this area, are the engine rear main seal
and the valve cover gasket.
Now go to the back end of the transmission. There is a shaft sticking out,
that mates with the input of the transfer case. The seal around that shaft,
is a likely source of too much oil in the transfer case. There is also a
seal on the transfer case side, I think. I am in Spain on vacation, and I
haven't handled a wrench in months, so bear with me. Anyway, the transfer
case seal is less frequently a problem, as the pressure and temperature in
the transmission are normally higher.
What you want to do, is remove the fill/level plug from the transfer case,
and see what comes out. If a considerable amount of fluid comes out, then
you need to replace transmission output seal.
As for the speedometer seal, find the speedometer unit where it bolts or
clamps to the side of the transfer case. If there is oil in that area, then
the speedometer seal needs to be replaced. Normally a large amount of oil
does not leak from this area, but any leak is cause for concern and can be
messy if not repaired.
Earle
"jimboe via CarKB.com" <u15312@uwe> wrote in message
news:56a7763d461db@uwe...
> Thanks for all the advice, pro and con. I've bought it and now I'll ask
for
> candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
--snippy--
>
> Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
> description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
> transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
> (transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
>
> Is that correct?
>
> Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you guys
> detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you speak
of
> possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
> converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
> can't find reference to them in Haynes.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> --
> Message posted via CarKB.com
> http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
>
the vehicle, and that the transmission is sitting on your work bench. Go to
the front of the transmission, grasp the torque converter, and slide it out.
It should come out with no effort at all, but be careful as it is fairly
heavy. Behind the torque converter there is a seal pressed into the
transmission, that is a possible source of oil leaking between the engine
and the transmission. This seal mates to a round stub that sticks out the
back of the torque converter. If there is a conspicuous groove in that
stub, then it is time to think about a new torque converter. ¡Cuidado!
Other possible sources of a leak in this area, are the engine rear main seal
and the valve cover gasket.
Now go to the back end of the transmission. There is a shaft sticking out,
that mates with the input of the transfer case. The seal around that shaft,
is a likely source of too much oil in the transfer case. There is also a
seal on the transfer case side, I think. I am in Spain on vacation, and I
haven't handled a wrench in months, so bear with me. Anyway, the transfer
case seal is less frequently a problem, as the pressure and temperature in
the transmission are normally higher.
What you want to do, is remove the fill/level plug from the transfer case,
and see what comes out. If a considerable amount of fluid comes out, then
you need to replace transmission output seal.
As for the speedometer seal, find the speedometer unit where it bolts or
clamps to the side of the transfer case. If there is oil in that area, then
the speedometer seal needs to be replaced. Normally a large amount of oil
does not leak from this area, but any leak is cause for concern and can be
messy if not repaired.
Earle
"jimboe via CarKB.com" <u15312@uwe> wrote in message
news:56a7763d461db@uwe...
> Thanks for all the advice, pro and con. I've bought it and now I'll ask
for
> candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
--snippy--
>
> Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
> description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
> transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
> (transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
>
> Is that correct?
>
> Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you guys
> detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you speak
of
> possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
> converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
> can't find reference to them in Haynes.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> --
> Message posted via CarKB.com
> http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
>
#147
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is this Jeep worth it?
Imagine that you have removed the transfer case and the transmission from
the vehicle, and that the transmission is sitting on your work bench. Go to
the front of the transmission, grasp the torque converter, and slide it out.
It should come out with no effort at all, but be careful as it is fairly
heavy. Behind the torque converter there is a seal pressed into the
transmission, that is a possible source of oil leaking between the engine
and the transmission. This seal mates to a round stub that sticks out the
back of the torque converter. If there is a conspicuous groove in that
stub, then it is time to think about a new torque converter. ¡Cuidado!
Other possible sources of a leak in this area, are the engine rear main seal
and the valve cover gasket.
Now go to the back end of the transmission. There is a shaft sticking out,
that mates with the input of the transfer case. The seal around that shaft,
is a likely source of too much oil in the transfer case. There is also a
seal on the transfer case side, I think. I am in Spain on vacation, and I
haven't handled a wrench in months, so bear with me. Anyway, the transfer
case seal is less frequently a problem, as the pressure and temperature in
the transmission are normally higher.
What you want to do, is remove the fill/level plug from the transfer case,
and see what comes out. If a considerable amount of fluid comes out, then
you need to replace transmission output seal.
As for the speedometer seal, find the speedometer unit where it bolts or
clamps to the side of the transfer case. If there is oil in that area, then
the speedometer seal needs to be replaced. Normally a large amount of oil
does not leak from this area, but any leak is cause for concern and can be
messy if not repaired.
Earle
"jimboe via CarKB.com" <u15312@uwe> wrote in message
news:56a7763d461db@uwe...
> Thanks for all the advice, pro and con. I've bought it and now I'll ask
for
> candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
--snippy--
>
> Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
> description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
> transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
> (transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
>
> Is that correct?
>
> Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you guys
> detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you speak
of
> possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
> converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
> can't find reference to them in Haynes.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> --
> Message posted via CarKB.com
> http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
>
the vehicle, and that the transmission is sitting on your work bench. Go to
the front of the transmission, grasp the torque converter, and slide it out.
It should come out with no effort at all, but be careful as it is fairly
heavy. Behind the torque converter there is a seal pressed into the
transmission, that is a possible source of oil leaking between the engine
and the transmission. This seal mates to a round stub that sticks out the
back of the torque converter. If there is a conspicuous groove in that
stub, then it is time to think about a new torque converter. ¡Cuidado!
Other possible sources of a leak in this area, are the engine rear main seal
and the valve cover gasket.
Now go to the back end of the transmission. There is a shaft sticking out,
that mates with the input of the transfer case. The seal around that shaft,
is a likely source of too much oil in the transfer case. There is also a
seal on the transfer case side, I think. I am in Spain on vacation, and I
haven't handled a wrench in months, so bear with me. Anyway, the transfer
case seal is less frequently a problem, as the pressure and temperature in
the transmission are normally higher.
What you want to do, is remove the fill/level plug from the transfer case,
and see what comes out. If a considerable amount of fluid comes out, then
you need to replace transmission output seal.
As for the speedometer seal, find the speedometer unit where it bolts or
clamps to the side of the transfer case. If there is oil in that area, then
the speedometer seal needs to be replaced. Normally a large amount of oil
does not leak from this area, but any leak is cause for concern and can be
messy if not repaired.
Earle
"jimboe via CarKB.com" <u15312@uwe> wrote in message
news:56a7763d461db@uwe...
> Thanks for all the advice, pro and con. I've bought it and now I'll ask
for
> candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
--snippy--
>
> Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
> description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
> transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
> (transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
>
> Is that correct?
>
> Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you guys
> detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you speak
of
> possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
> converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
> can't find reference to them in Haynes.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> --
> Message posted via CarKB.com
> http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
>
#148
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is this Jeep worth it?
Imagine that you have removed the transfer case and the transmission from
the vehicle, and that the transmission is sitting on your work bench. Go to
the front of the transmission, grasp the torque converter, and slide it out.
It should come out with no effort at all, but be careful as it is fairly
heavy. Behind the torque converter there is a seal pressed into the
transmission, that is a possible source of oil leaking between the engine
and the transmission. This seal mates to a round stub that sticks out the
back of the torque converter. If there is a conspicuous groove in that
stub, then it is time to think about a new torque converter. ¡Cuidado!
Other possible sources of a leak in this area, are the engine rear main seal
and the valve cover gasket.
Now go to the back end of the transmission. There is a shaft sticking out,
that mates with the input of the transfer case. The seal around that shaft,
is a likely source of too much oil in the transfer case. There is also a
seal on the transfer case side, I think. I am in Spain on vacation, and I
haven't handled a wrench in months, so bear with me. Anyway, the transfer
case seal is less frequently a problem, as the pressure and temperature in
the transmission are normally higher.
What you want to do, is remove the fill/level plug from the transfer case,
and see what comes out. If a considerable amount of fluid comes out, then
you need to replace transmission output seal.
As for the speedometer seal, find the speedometer unit where it bolts or
clamps to the side of the transfer case. If there is oil in that area, then
the speedometer seal needs to be replaced. Normally a large amount of oil
does not leak from this area, but any leak is cause for concern and can be
messy if not repaired.
Earle
"jimboe via CarKB.com" <u15312@uwe> wrote in message
news:56a7763d461db@uwe...
> Thanks for all the advice, pro and con. I've bought it and now I'll ask
for
> candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
--snippy--
>
> Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
> description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
> transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
> (transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
>
> Is that correct?
>
> Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you guys
> detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you speak
of
> possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
> converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
> can't find reference to them in Haynes.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> --
> Message posted via CarKB.com
> http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
>
the vehicle, and that the transmission is sitting on your work bench. Go to
the front of the transmission, grasp the torque converter, and slide it out.
It should come out with no effort at all, but be careful as it is fairly
heavy. Behind the torque converter there is a seal pressed into the
transmission, that is a possible source of oil leaking between the engine
and the transmission. This seal mates to a round stub that sticks out the
back of the torque converter. If there is a conspicuous groove in that
stub, then it is time to think about a new torque converter. ¡Cuidado!
Other possible sources of a leak in this area, are the engine rear main seal
and the valve cover gasket.
Now go to the back end of the transmission. There is a shaft sticking out,
that mates with the input of the transfer case. The seal around that shaft,
is a likely source of too much oil in the transfer case. There is also a
seal on the transfer case side, I think. I am in Spain on vacation, and I
haven't handled a wrench in months, so bear with me. Anyway, the transfer
case seal is less frequently a problem, as the pressure and temperature in
the transmission are normally higher.
What you want to do, is remove the fill/level plug from the transfer case,
and see what comes out. If a considerable amount of fluid comes out, then
you need to replace transmission output seal.
As for the speedometer seal, find the speedometer unit where it bolts or
clamps to the side of the transfer case. If there is oil in that area, then
the speedometer seal needs to be replaced. Normally a large amount of oil
does not leak from this area, but any leak is cause for concern and can be
messy if not repaired.
Earle
"jimboe via CarKB.com" <u15312@uwe> wrote in message
news:56a7763d461db@uwe...
> Thanks for all the advice, pro and con. I've bought it and now I'll ask
for
> candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
--snippy--
>
> Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
> description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
> transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
> (transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
>
> Is that correct?
>
> Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you guys
> detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you speak
of
> possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
> converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
> can't find reference to them in Haynes.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> --
> Message posted via CarKB.com
> http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
>
#149
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is this Jeep worth it?
The transmission is a one piece sealed unit.
The transfer case is also a one piece sealed unit.
They normally take different types of fluid even.
If the transmission is low on fluid, it has a leak. This leak has
nothing at all to do with the transfer case, the speedometer or the
tailshaft.
You must go under and remove a bolt on the top side of the transfer case
to check the fluid level in the transfer case.
Transmissions leak either up front between the tranny and engine, or the
pan gasket leaks (by far the most common leak) or the rear seal leaks
and drips out 'between' the transmission and transfer case.
Non of the above means you need to replace anything except 'maybe' a
seal or maybe just tighten a few bolts on the pan gasket or give it a
new pan gasket.
I would look at the pan gasket closely. If it has silicone sealer on
it, someone changed the oil and likely the bolts just came loose like
they normally do after a sloppy pan gasket change or they used the old
gasket.
If you try turning the transmission pan bolts by hand, I'll bet you find
some finger loose.
Then if it is only down a pint or so when you check the level hot, (the
dipstick says whether to check it in neutral or park and running) I
would recommend you ignore the leak for a couple months to see how much
it does indeed leak. If it took 100,000 miles to go down a pint,
well.....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
"jimboe via CarKB.com" wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the advice, pro and con. I've bought it and now I'll ask for
> candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
>
> I plan to:
> 1) Tune-up: Ignintion wires, cap, rotor, plugs.
> 2) Power steering pump: Replace the O-ring or the return hose or the pump
> itself (as DougW suggessted).
> 3) Unibelt
> 4) Motor mounts and tranny mount
>
> I stated ealrier that when "flooring" it, say from 60 to go to 75 or 80,
> there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it accelerates quickly.
> I attribute that to engine carbon build-up and that the truck has been fed
> only 87.
>
> What's the best way to remedy that build-up? Has anyone every tried something
> like the Excite 3 step fuel injector tune-up, where in one of the steps, you
> allow the vehicle to suck some cleaner into the intake manifold via one of
> the vaccuum hoses, like the one on the pcv valve.
>
> Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
> description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
> transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
> (transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
>
> Is that correct?
>
> Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you guys
> detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you speak of
> possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
> converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
> can't find reference to them in Haynes.
>
> Thanks.
>
> --
> Message posted via CarKB.com
> http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
The transfer case is also a one piece sealed unit.
They normally take different types of fluid even.
If the transmission is low on fluid, it has a leak. This leak has
nothing at all to do with the transfer case, the speedometer or the
tailshaft.
You must go under and remove a bolt on the top side of the transfer case
to check the fluid level in the transfer case.
Transmissions leak either up front between the tranny and engine, or the
pan gasket leaks (by far the most common leak) or the rear seal leaks
and drips out 'between' the transmission and transfer case.
Non of the above means you need to replace anything except 'maybe' a
seal or maybe just tighten a few bolts on the pan gasket or give it a
new pan gasket.
I would look at the pan gasket closely. If it has silicone sealer on
it, someone changed the oil and likely the bolts just came loose like
they normally do after a sloppy pan gasket change or they used the old
gasket.
If you try turning the transmission pan bolts by hand, I'll bet you find
some finger loose.
Then if it is only down a pint or so when you check the level hot, (the
dipstick says whether to check it in neutral or park and running) I
would recommend you ignore the leak for a couple months to see how much
it does indeed leak. If it took 100,000 miles to go down a pint,
well.....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
"jimboe via CarKB.com" wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the advice, pro and con. I've bought it and now I'll ask for
> candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
>
> I plan to:
> 1) Tune-up: Ignintion wires, cap, rotor, plugs.
> 2) Power steering pump: Replace the O-ring or the return hose or the pump
> itself (as DougW suggessted).
> 3) Unibelt
> 4) Motor mounts and tranny mount
>
> I stated ealrier that when "flooring" it, say from 60 to go to 75 or 80,
> there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it accelerates quickly.
> I attribute that to engine carbon build-up and that the truck has been fed
> only 87.
>
> What's the best way to remedy that build-up? Has anyone every tried something
> like the Excite 3 step fuel injector tune-up, where in one of the steps, you
> allow the vehicle to suck some cleaner into the intake manifold via one of
> the vaccuum hoses, like the one on the pcv valve.
>
> Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
> description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
> transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
> (transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
>
> Is that correct?
>
> Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you guys
> detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you speak of
> possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
> converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
> can't find reference to them in Haynes.
>
> Thanks.
>
> --
> Message posted via CarKB.com
> http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
#150
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is this Jeep worth it?
The transmission is a one piece sealed unit.
The transfer case is also a one piece sealed unit.
They normally take different types of fluid even.
If the transmission is low on fluid, it has a leak. This leak has
nothing at all to do with the transfer case, the speedometer or the
tailshaft.
You must go under and remove a bolt on the top side of the transfer case
to check the fluid level in the transfer case.
Transmissions leak either up front between the tranny and engine, or the
pan gasket leaks (by far the most common leak) or the rear seal leaks
and drips out 'between' the transmission and transfer case.
Non of the above means you need to replace anything except 'maybe' a
seal or maybe just tighten a few bolts on the pan gasket or give it a
new pan gasket.
I would look at the pan gasket closely. If it has silicone sealer on
it, someone changed the oil and likely the bolts just came loose like
they normally do after a sloppy pan gasket change or they used the old
gasket.
If you try turning the transmission pan bolts by hand, I'll bet you find
some finger loose.
Then if it is only down a pint or so when you check the level hot, (the
dipstick says whether to check it in neutral or park and running) I
would recommend you ignore the leak for a couple months to see how much
it does indeed leak. If it took 100,000 miles to go down a pint,
well.....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
"jimboe via CarKB.com" wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the advice, pro and con. I've bought it and now I'll ask for
> candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
>
> I plan to:
> 1) Tune-up: Ignintion wires, cap, rotor, plugs.
> 2) Power steering pump: Replace the O-ring or the return hose or the pump
> itself (as DougW suggessted).
> 3) Unibelt
> 4) Motor mounts and tranny mount
>
> I stated ealrier that when "flooring" it, say from 60 to go to 75 or 80,
> there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it accelerates quickly.
> I attribute that to engine carbon build-up and that the truck has been fed
> only 87.
>
> What's the best way to remedy that build-up? Has anyone every tried something
> like the Excite 3 step fuel injector tune-up, where in one of the steps, you
> allow the vehicle to suck some cleaner into the intake manifold via one of
> the vaccuum hoses, like the one on the pcv valve.
>
> Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
> description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
> transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
> (transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
>
> Is that correct?
>
> Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you guys
> detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you speak of
> possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
> converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
> can't find reference to them in Haynes.
>
> Thanks.
>
> --
> Message posted via CarKB.com
> http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1
The transfer case is also a one piece sealed unit.
They normally take different types of fluid even.
If the transmission is low on fluid, it has a leak. This leak has
nothing at all to do with the transfer case, the speedometer or the
tailshaft.
You must go under and remove a bolt on the top side of the transfer case
to check the fluid level in the transfer case.
Transmissions leak either up front between the tranny and engine, or the
pan gasket leaks (by far the most common leak) or the rear seal leaks
and drips out 'between' the transmission and transfer case.
Non of the above means you need to replace anything except 'maybe' a
seal or maybe just tighten a few bolts on the pan gasket or give it a
new pan gasket.
I would look at the pan gasket closely. If it has silicone sealer on
it, someone changed the oil and likely the bolts just came loose like
they normally do after a sloppy pan gasket change or they used the old
gasket.
If you try turning the transmission pan bolts by hand, I'll bet you find
some finger loose.
Then if it is only down a pint or so when you check the level hot, (the
dipstick says whether to check it in neutral or park and running) I
would recommend you ignore the leak for a couple months to see how much
it does indeed leak. If it took 100,000 miles to go down a pint,
well.....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
"jimboe via CarKB.com" wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the advice, pro and con. I've bought it and now I'll ask for
> candid advice from any of you regarding my next move.
>
> I plan to:
> 1) Tune-up: Ignintion wires, cap, rotor, plugs.
> 2) Power steering pump: Replace the O-ring or the return hose or the pump
> itself (as DougW suggessted).
> 3) Unibelt
> 4) Motor mounts and tranny mount
>
> I stated ealrier that when "flooring" it, say from 60 to go to 75 or 80,
> there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it accelerates quickly.
> I attribute that to engine carbon build-up and that the truck has been fed
> only 87.
>
> What's the best way to remedy that build-up? Has anyone every tried something
> like the Excite 3 step fuel injector tune-up, where in one of the steps, you
> allow the vehicle to suck some cleaner into the intake manifold via one of
> the vaccuum hoses, like the one on the pcv valve.
>
> Regarding the tranny-leak issue around the transfer case. Based on my
> description thus far, it seems that some of you think that it's not the
> transfer case itself that needs to be replaced, but one of the seals
> (transfer case seal, speedometer O-ring) that is the source of the leak.
>
> Is that correct?
>
> Earle and Mike, I'm probably missing the obvious here, but could you guys
> detail a little more on what parts you are referring to you when you speak of
> possible leak sources from the tailshaft, and the seals by the torque
> converter. If you're not referring to the two seals I mentioned above, I
> can't find reference to them in Haynes.
>
> Thanks.
>
> --
> Message posted via CarKB.com
> http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1