Shaggie

On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 19:43:56 -0400, Mike Romain
<romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:

>I mean compression stroke on #1 for 'clocking' the distributor....
>
>Mike

I'm not positive I follow your explanation, but is what you're saying
that I could just choose a certain terminal on the distributor to be
#1 and wire that one terminal over to cylinder #1 and be sure that
while the rotor is pointing to that terminal that cylinder #1 is at
TDC and then wire the rest of the terminals in order to the correct
cylinders? I *think* that's all there is to it and that that is what
you are saying, but I know it's not always the case, like the VW
example I gave where they have it set up so that the "real" #3
terminal is positioned so that it is slightly retarded to help #3
cylinder run a little cooler. Thanks for the input/information!

>
>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>> You have to 'clock' your distributor like normal and on the V8 have
>> number 1 just to the short edge of the advance or the right as you face
>> the engine.
>>
>> The advance points to the right corner of the engine also or number 1
>> cylinder as you face it.
>>
>> This setup will allow a stock set of wires to fit on nicely. If you
>> mess with the clocking, the wires get nasty.
>>
>> Other than that, the only Jeep engine was the Buick V6 odd fire that
>> needed a special #1 location.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>> Shaggie wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi all. Just wondering... Suppose your 304 V8 caught on fire and the
>> > distributor burned up... So you removed it and ordered a replacement.
>> > Plug wires all burned up too. Now you get the new distributor and
>> > plug wires. Can you just choose whatever terminal you want on the
>> > distributor to be #1 and go around in sequence as long as you run the
>> > plug wires to the right cylinders? I know on older VWs there is a
>> > specific #1 terminal because the distributors are designed to slightly
>> > retard cylinder #3 because it's behind the oil cooler so it tends to
>> > run hotter and retarding it a little bit helps it to not run as hot as
>> > it would if it was running at the same advance the other cylinders
>> > are. On a 304 Jeep can I just choose whichever terminal I want to be
>> > #1? Thanks in advance for input/help.
>> >
>> > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> > :wq!

"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!

Shaggie

On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 19:43:56 -0400, Mike Romain
<romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:

>I mean compression stroke on #1 for 'clocking' the distributor....
>
>Mike

I'm not positive I follow your explanation, but is what you're saying
that I could just choose a certain terminal on the distributor to be
#1 and wire that one terminal over to cylinder #1 and be sure that
while the rotor is pointing to that terminal that cylinder #1 is at
TDC and then wire the rest of the terminals in order to the correct
cylinders? I *think* that's all there is to it and that that is what
you are saying, but I know it's not always the case, like the VW
example I gave where they have it set up so that the "real" #3
terminal is positioned so that it is slightly retarded to help #3
cylinder run a little cooler. Thanks for the input/information!

>
>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>> You have to 'clock' your distributor like normal and on the V8 have
>> number 1 just to the short edge of the advance or the right as you face
>> the engine.
>>
>> The advance points to the right corner of the engine also or number 1
>> cylinder as you face it.
>>
>> This setup will allow a stock set of wires to fit on nicely. If you
>> mess with the clocking, the wires get nasty.
>>
>> Other than that, the only Jeep engine was the Buick V6 odd fire that
>> needed a special #1 location.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>> Shaggie wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi all. Just wondering... Suppose your 304 V8 caught on fire and the
>> > distributor burned up... So you removed it and ordered a replacement.
>> > Plug wires all burned up too. Now you get the new distributor and
>> > plug wires. Can you just choose whatever terminal you want on the
>> > distributor to be #1 and go around in sequence as long as you run the
>> > plug wires to the right cylinders? I know on older VWs there is a
>> > specific #1 terminal because the distributors are designed to slightly
>> > retard cylinder #3 because it's behind the oil cooler so it tends to
>> > run hotter and retarding it a little bit helps it to not run as hot as
>> > it would if it was running at the same advance the other cylinders
>> > are. On a 304 Jeep can I just choose whichever terminal I want to be
>> > #1? Thanks in advance for input/help.
>> >
>> > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> > :wq!

"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!

Shaggie

On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 19:43:56 -0400, Mike Romain
<romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:

>I mean compression stroke on #1 for 'clocking' the distributor....
>
>Mike

I'm not positive I follow your explanation, but is what you're saying
that I could just choose a certain terminal on the distributor to be
#1 and wire that one terminal over to cylinder #1 and be sure that
while the rotor is pointing to that terminal that cylinder #1 is at
TDC and then wire the rest of the terminals in order to the correct
cylinders? I *think* that's all there is to it and that that is what
you are saying, but I know it's not always the case, like the VW
example I gave where they have it set up so that the "real" #3
terminal is positioned so that it is slightly retarded to help #3
cylinder run a little cooler. Thanks for the input/information!

>
>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>> You have to 'clock' your distributor like normal and on the V8 have
>> number 1 just to the short edge of the advance or the right as you face
>> the engine.
>>
>> The advance points to the right corner of the engine also or number 1
>> cylinder as you face it.
>>
>> This setup will allow a stock set of wires to fit on nicely. If you
>> mess with the clocking, the wires get nasty.
>>
>> Other than that, the only Jeep engine was the Buick V6 odd fire that
>> needed a special #1 location.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>> Shaggie wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi all. Just wondering... Suppose your 304 V8 caught on fire and the
>> > distributor burned up... So you removed it and ordered a replacement.
>> > Plug wires all burned up too. Now you get the new distributor and
>> > plug wires. Can you just choose whatever terminal you want on the
>> > distributor to be #1 and go around in sequence as long as you run the
>> > plug wires to the right cylinders? I know on older VWs there is a
>> > specific #1 terminal because the distributors are designed to slightly
>> > retard cylinder #3 because it's behind the oil cooler so it tends to
>> > run hotter and retarding it a little bit helps it to not run as hot as
>> > it would if it was running at the same advance the other cylinders
>> > are. On a 304 Jeep can I just choose whichever terminal I want to be
>> > #1? Thanks in advance for input/help.
>> >
>> > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> > :wq!

"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!

Shaggie

On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 00:02:27 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:

>You can drop the distributor, in any position, and determine where position
>1 is, it does not matter.

Any position? I thought you could only drop it in at 2 different
positions for any given engine rotation.

> Do you realize that there are two TDC points?
>One on the compression stroke and one on the exhaust stroke.

Yes, I realize that. :-)

>
>JimG
>
>
>"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>news:7ajr70tdc58s5b16t302tlqou30cn7j08o@4ax.com.. .
>> On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 23:43:28 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>>
>> >If you set it TDC on the compression stroke, you will not be 180 deg off.
>> >Take #1 plug out (and all the rest, to make it easy to turn with a big
>> >socket wrench), and put a cork in the #1 hole, when you get to the
>> >compression stroke, it will pop out. Then you need a new rotor button
>> >installed. With the cap off, drop the distributor in, and the rotor
>button
>> >electrode will pointing to position 1.
>> >
>> >JimG
>>
>> Yeah... I know exactly how to get the engine to TDC on cylinder #1. I
>> don't have any question at all about how to get the engine to TDC for
>> cylinder #1. Are you saying there is only exactly one way to install
>> the distributor into the engine when the engine is set to TDC for
>> clyinder #1? I don't think that's correct. I pretty sure I could
>> install it in 2 different ways (each way 180 degrees out of phase with
>> the other), but I'm not sure that it will matter. I must not be
>> phrasing my question well. Imagine someone pulled your distributor
>> out of your engine, removed all plug wires, and spun the shaft around
>> a few times at random. You set the engine to TDC for cylinder #1.
>> How do you go about putting the distributor back in and hooking up the
>> "correct #1 terminal" to #1 cylinder? I think you could get the
>> distributor to drop in two different ways, one with the rotor pointing
>> in one direction, and the other way with the rotor pointing in the
>> exact opposite (180 degrees off) direction. See what I mean?
>>
>> >
>> >
>> >"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> >news:v6ir70hcgu09d7aliefda8mrgf2gp5tbla@4ax.com.. .
>> >> On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 23:12:26 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >Position 1 is determined when the rotor cap is pointing to it on the
>TDC
>> >> >compression stoke. Then it's 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2 going CW, with the
>> >> >cylinder id as follows:
>> >> >left
>> >> >7 5 3 1 (front, drivers side)
>> >> >8 6 4 2
>> >> >right
>> >> >
>> >> >The Haynes manual shows position 1 adjacent to the vacuum advance.
>> >>
>> >> But if your whole distributor cap/rotor got burned off and you have no
>> >> reference then how do you know where the rotor cap is pointing to?
>> >> See what I mean? I know how to put the engine at TDC for cylinder #1,
>> >> but then I have to drop the distributor in place. I can't look at the
>> >> rotor because it burned into nothingness. :) I'm gonna have to put
>> >> the engine at TDC for cylinder #1 and then install the distributor and
>> >> it seems like I could either get it right or be 180 degrees out of
>> >> time when the gears mesh.
>> >>
>> >> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> >> :wq!
>> >
>>
>> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> :wq!
>

"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!

Shaggie

On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 00:02:27 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:

>You can drop the distributor, in any position, and determine where position
>1 is, it does not matter.

Any position? I thought you could only drop it in at 2 different
positions for any given engine rotation.

> Do you realize that there are two TDC points?
>One on the compression stroke and one on the exhaust stroke.

Yes, I realize that. :-)

>
>JimG
>
>
>"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>news:7ajr70tdc58s5b16t302tlqou30cn7j08o@4ax.com.. .
>> On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 23:43:28 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>>
>> >If you set it TDC on the compression stroke, you will not be 180 deg off.
>> >Take #1 plug out (and all the rest, to make it easy to turn with a big
>> >socket wrench), and put a cork in the #1 hole, when you get to the
>> >compression stroke, it will pop out. Then you need a new rotor button
>> >installed. With the cap off, drop the distributor in, and the rotor
>button
>> >electrode will pointing to position 1.
>> >
>> >JimG
>>
>> Yeah... I know exactly how to get the engine to TDC on cylinder #1. I
>> don't have any question at all about how to get the engine to TDC for
>> cylinder #1. Are you saying there is only exactly one way to install
>> the distributor into the engine when the engine is set to TDC for
>> clyinder #1? I don't think that's correct. I pretty sure I could
>> install it in 2 different ways (each way 180 degrees out of phase with
>> the other), but I'm not sure that it will matter. I must not be
>> phrasing my question well. Imagine someone pulled your distributor
>> out of your engine, removed all plug wires, and spun the shaft around
>> a few times at random. You set the engine to TDC for cylinder #1.
>> How do you go about putting the distributor back in and hooking up the
>> "correct #1 terminal" to #1 cylinder? I think you could get the
>> distributor to drop in two different ways, one with the rotor pointing
>> in one direction, and the other way with the rotor pointing in the
>> exact opposite (180 degrees off) direction. See what I mean?
>>
>> >
>> >
>> >"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> >news:v6ir70hcgu09d7aliefda8mrgf2gp5tbla@4ax.com.. .
>> >> On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 23:12:26 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >Position 1 is determined when the rotor cap is pointing to it on the
>TDC
>> >> >compression stoke. Then it's 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2 going CW, with the
>> >> >cylinder id as follows:
>> >> >left
>> >> >7 5 3 1 (front, drivers side)
>> >> >8 6 4 2
>> >> >right
>> >> >
>> >> >The Haynes manual shows position 1 adjacent to the vacuum advance.
>> >>
>> >> But if your whole distributor cap/rotor got burned off and you have no
>> >> reference then how do you know where the rotor cap is pointing to?
>> >> See what I mean? I know how to put the engine at TDC for cylinder #1,
>> >> but then I have to drop the distributor in place. I can't look at the
>> >> rotor because it burned into nothingness. :) I'm gonna have to put
>> >> the engine at TDC for cylinder #1 and then install the distributor and
>> >> it seems like I could either get it right or be 180 degrees out of
>> >> time when the gears mesh.
>> >>
>> >> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> >> :wq!
>> >
>>
>> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> :wq!
>

"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!

Shaggie

On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 00:02:27 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:

>You can drop the distributor, in any position, and determine where position
>1 is, it does not matter.

Any position? I thought you could only drop it in at 2 different
positions for any given engine rotation.

> Do you realize that there are two TDC points?
>One on the compression stroke and one on the exhaust stroke.

Yes, I realize that. :-)

>
>JimG
>
>
>"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>news:7ajr70tdc58s5b16t302tlqou30cn7j08o@4ax.com.. .
>> On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 23:43:28 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>>
>> >If you set it TDC on the compression stroke, you will not be 180 deg off.
>> >Take #1 plug out (and all the rest, to make it easy to turn with a big
>> >socket wrench), and put a cork in the #1 hole, when you get to the
>> >compression stroke, it will pop out. Then you need a new rotor button
>> >installed. With the cap off, drop the distributor in, and the rotor
>button
>> >electrode will pointing to position 1.
>> >
>> >JimG
>>
>> Yeah... I know exactly how to get the engine to TDC on cylinder #1. I
>> don't have any question at all about how to get the engine to TDC for
>> cylinder #1. Are you saying there is only exactly one way to install
>> the distributor into the engine when the engine is set to TDC for
>> clyinder #1? I don't think that's correct. I pretty sure I could
>> install it in 2 different ways (each way 180 degrees out of phase with
>> the other), but I'm not sure that it will matter. I must not be
>> phrasing my question well. Imagine someone pulled your distributor
>> out of your engine, removed all plug wires, and spun the shaft around
>> a few times at random. You set the engine to TDC for cylinder #1.
>> How do you go about putting the distributor back in and hooking up the
>> "correct #1 terminal" to #1 cylinder? I think you could get the
>> distributor to drop in two different ways, one with the rotor pointing
>> in one direction, and the other way with the rotor pointing in the
>> exact opposite (180 degrees off) direction. See what I mean?
>>
>> >
>> >
>> >"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> >news:v6ir70hcgu09d7aliefda8mrgf2gp5tbla@4ax.com.. .
>> >> On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 23:12:26 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >Position 1 is determined when the rotor cap is pointing to it on the
>TDC
>> >> >compression stoke. Then it's 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2 going CW, with the
>> >> >cylinder id as follows:
>> >> >left
>> >> >7 5 3 1 (front, drivers side)
>> >> >8 6 4 2
>> >> >right
>> >> >
>> >> >The Haynes manual shows position 1 adjacent to the vacuum advance.
>> >>
>> >> But if your whole distributor cap/rotor got burned off and you have no
>> >> reference then how do you know where the rotor cap is pointing to?
>> >> See what I mean? I know how to put the engine at TDC for cylinder #1,
>> >> but then I have to drop the distributor in place. I can't look at the
>> >> rotor because it burned into nothingness. :) I'm gonna have to put
>> >> the engine at TDC for cylinder #1 and then install the distributor and
>> >> it seems like I could either get it right or be 180 degrees out of
>> >> time when the gears mesh.
>> >>
>> >> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> >> :wq!
>> >
>>
>> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> :wq!
>

"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!

Shaggie

On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 00:02:27 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:

>You can drop the distributor, in any position, and determine where position
>1 is, it does not matter.

Any position? I thought you could only drop it in at 2 different
positions for any given engine rotation.

> Do you realize that there are two TDC points?
>One on the compression stroke and one on the exhaust stroke.

Yes, I realize that. :-)

>
>JimG
>
>
>"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>news:7ajr70tdc58s5b16t302tlqou30cn7j08o@4ax.com.. .
>> On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 23:43:28 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>>
>> >If you set it TDC on the compression stroke, you will not be 180 deg off.
>> >Take #1 plug out (and all the rest, to make it easy to turn with a big
>> >socket wrench), and put a cork in the #1 hole, when you get to the
>> >compression stroke, it will pop out. Then you need a new rotor button
>> >installed. With the cap off, drop the distributor in, and the rotor
>button
>> >electrode will pointing to position 1.
>> >
>> >JimG
>>
>> Yeah... I know exactly how to get the engine to TDC on cylinder #1. I
>> don't have any question at all about how to get the engine to TDC for
>> cylinder #1. Are you saying there is only exactly one way to install
>> the distributor into the engine when the engine is set to TDC for
>> clyinder #1? I don't think that's correct. I pretty sure I could
>> install it in 2 different ways (each way 180 degrees out of phase with
>> the other), but I'm not sure that it will matter. I must not be
>> phrasing my question well. Imagine someone pulled your distributor
>> out of your engine, removed all plug wires, and spun the shaft around
>> a few times at random. You set the engine to TDC for cylinder #1.
>> How do you go about putting the distributor back in and hooking up the
>> "correct #1 terminal" to #1 cylinder? I think you could get the
>> distributor to drop in two different ways, one with the rotor pointing
>> in one direction, and the other way with the rotor pointing in the
>> exact opposite (180 degrees off) direction. See what I mean?
>>
>> >
>> >
>> >"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> >news:v6ir70hcgu09d7aliefda8mrgf2gp5tbla@4ax.com.. .
>> >> On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 23:12:26 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >Position 1 is determined when the rotor cap is pointing to it on the
>TDC
>> >> >compression stoke. Then it's 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2 going CW, with the
>> >> >cylinder id as follows:
>> >> >left
>> >> >7 5 3 1 (front, drivers side)
>> >> >8 6 4 2
>> >> >right
>> >> >
>> >> >The Haynes manual shows position 1 adjacent to the vacuum advance.
>> >>
>> >> But if your whole distributor cap/rotor got burned off and you have no
>> >> reference then how do you know where the rotor cap is pointing to?
>> >> See what I mean? I know how to put the engine at TDC for cylinder #1,
>> >> but then I have to drop the distributor in place. I can't look at the
>> >> rotor because it burned into nothingness. :) I'm gonna have to put
>> >> the engine at TDC for cylinder #1 and then install the distributor and
>> >> it seems like I could either get it right or be 180 degrees out of
>> >> time when the gears mesh.
>> >>
>> >> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> >> :wq!
>> >
>>
>> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> :wq!
>

"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!

JimG

> Any position? I thought you could only drop it in at 2 different
> positions for any given engine rotation.

Anywhere that the gears mesh up. I don't know how many different positions,
but it's more than 2. Like Mike said, the stock wire length wants #1 in a
particular position.

Again... as long as #1 wire (with the rotor button pointing to it), goes to
#1 cylinder when the motor is sitting at compression stroke TDC for #1
cylinder.

JimG

JimG

> Any position? I thought you could only drop it in at 2 different
> positions for any given engine rotation.

Anywhere that the gears mesh up. I don't know how many different positions,
but it's more than 2. Like Mike said, the stock wire length wants #1 in a
particular position.

Again... as long as #1 wire (with the rotor button pointing to it), goes to
#1 cylinder when the motor is sitting at compression stroke TDC for #1
cylinder.

JimG

JimG

> Any position? I thought you could only drop it in at 2 different
> positions for any given engine rotation.

Anywhere that the gears mesh up. I don't know how many different positions,
but it's more than 2. Like Mike said, the stock wire length wants #1 in a
particular position.

Again... as long as #1 wire (with the rotor button pointing to it), goes to
#1 cylinder when the motor is sitting at compression stroke TDC for #1
cylinder.

JimG