hooking up plug wires on distributor
04-14-2004, 07:35 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: hooking up plug wires on distributor
On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 16:30:58 -0700, L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> http://www.----------.com/304_f_o.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/304_f_o.jpg
Thanks, Bill. Now I won't have to dig out my manual to see which
cylinder is which, but I still have the same question. Can I
arbitrarily choose which terminal on the distributor I want to be #1
or not as long as I wire that terminal to cylinder #1 and then the
next terminal on the distributor moving CCW to cylinder #2, etc, etc?
Maybe if I phrase the question another way... If my Jeep was running
just fine would it matter at all if I removed every single plug wire
from the distributor and shifted their position one terminal clockwise
or counterclockwise? See what I mean?
>
>Shaggie wrote:
>>
>> Hi all. Just wondering... Suppose your 304 V8 caught on fire and the
>> distributor burned up... So you removed it and ordered a replacement.
>> Plug wires all burned up too. Now you get the new distributor and
>> plug wires. Can you just choose whatever terminal you want on the
>> distributor to be #1 and go around in sequence as long as you run the
>> plug wires to the right cylinders? I know on older VWs there is a
>> specific #1 terminal because the distributors are designed to slightly
>> retard cylinder #3 because it's behind the oil cooler so it tends to
>> run hotter and retarding it a little bit helps it to not run as hot as
>> it would if it was running at the same advance the other cylinders
>> are. On a 304 Jeep can I just choose whichever terminal I want to be
>> #1? Thanks in advance for input/help.
>>
>> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> :wq!
"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> http://www.----------.com/304_f_o.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/304_f_o.jpg
Thanks, Bill. Now I won't have to dig out my manual to see which
cylinder is which, but I still have the same question. Can I
arbitrarily choose which terminal on the distributor I want to be #1
or not as long as I wire that terminal to cylinder #1 and then the
next terminal on the distributor moving CCW to cylinder #2, etc, etc?
Maybe if I phrase the question another way... If my Jeep was running
just fine would it matter at all if I removed every single plug wire
from the distributor and shifted their position one terminal clockwise
or counterclockwise? See what I mean?
>
>Shaggie wrote:
>>
>> Hi all. Just wondering... Suppose your 304 V8 caught on fire and the
>> distributor burned up... So you removed it and ordered a replacement.
>> Plug wires all burned up too. Now you get the new distributor and
>> plug wires. Can you just choose whatever terminal you want on the
>> distributor to be #1 and go around in sequence as long as you run the
>> plug wires to the right cylinders? I know on older VWs there is a
>> specific #1 terminal because the distributors are designed to slightly
>> retard cylinder #3 because it's behind the oil cooler so it tends to
>> run hotter and retarding it a little bit helps it to not run as hot as
>> it would if it was running at the same advance the other cylinders
>> are. On a 304 Jeep can I just choose whichever terminal I want to be
>> #1? Thanks in advance for input/help.
>>
>> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
>> :wq!
"I can hammer it back into shape later."
:wq!
04-14-2004, 07:40 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: hooking up plug wires on distributor
You have to 'clock' your distributor like normal and on the V8 have
number 1 just to the short edge of the advance or the right as you face
the engine.
The advance points to the right corner of the engine also or number 1
cylinder as you face it.
This setup will allow a stock set of wires to fit on nicely. If you
mess with the clocking, the wires get nasty.
Other than that, the only Jeep engine was the Buick V6 odd fire that
needed a special #1 location.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Shaggie wrote:
>
> Hi all. Just wondering... Suppose your 304 V8 caught on fire and the
> distributor burned up... So you removed it and ordered a replacement.
> Plug wires all burned up too. Now you get the new distributor and
> plug wires. Can you just choose whatever terminal you want on the
> distributor to be #1 and go around in sequence as long as you run the
> plug wires to the right cylinders? I know on older VWs there is a
> specific #1 terminal because the distributors are designed to slightly
> retard cylinder #3 because it's behind the oil cooler so it tends to
> run hotter and retarding it a little bit helps it to not run as hot as
> it would if it was running at the same advance the other cylinders
> are. On a 304 Jeep can I just choose whichever terminal I want to be
> #1? Thanks in advance for input/help.
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
number 1 just to the short edge of the advance or the right as you face
the engine.
The advance points to the right corner of the engine also or number 1
cylinder as you face it.
This setup will allow a stock set of wires to fit on nicely. If you
mess with the clocking, the wires get nasty.
Other than that, the only Jeep engine was the Buick V6 odd fire that
needed a special #1 location.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Shaggie wrote:
>
> Hi all. Just wondering... Suppose your 304 V8 caught on fire and the
> distributor burned up... So you removed it and ordered a replacement.
> Plug wires all burned up too. Now you get the new distributor and
> plug wires. Can you just choose whatever terminal you want on the
> distributor to be #1 and go around in sequence as long as you run the
> plug wires to the right cylinders? I know on older VWs there is a
> specific #1 terminal because the distributors are designed to slightly
> retard cylinder #3 because it's behind the oil cooler so it tends to
> run hotter and retarding it a little bit helps it to not run as hot as
> it would if it was running at the same advance the other cylinders
> are. On a 304 Jeep can I just choose whichever terminal I want to be
> #1? Thanks in advance for input/help.
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
04-14-2004, 07:40 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: hooking up plug wires on distributor
You have to 'clock' your distributor like normal and on the V8 have
number 1 just to the short edge of the advance or the right as you face
the engine.
The advance points to the right corner of the engine also or number 1
cylinder as you face it.
This setup will allow a stock set of wires to fit on nicely. If you
mess with the clocking, the wires get nasty.
Other than that, the only Jeep engine was the Buick V6 odd fire that
needed a special #1 location.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Shaggie wrote:
>
> Hi all. Just wondering... Suppose your 304 V8 caught on fire and the
> distributor burned up... So you removed it and ordered a replacement.
> Plug wires all burned up too. Now you get the new distributor and
> plug wires. Can you just choose whatever terminal you want on the
> distributor to be #1 and go around in sequence as long as you run the
> plug wires to the right cylinders? I know on older VWs there is a
> specific #1 terminal because the distributors are designed to slightly
> retard cylinder #3 because it's behind the oil cooler so it tends to
> run hotter and retarding it a little bit helps it to not run as hot as
> it would if it was running at the same advance the other cylinders
> are. On a 304 Jeep can I just choose whichever terminal I want to be
> #1? Thanks in advance for input/help.
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
number 1 just to the short edge of the advance or the right as you face
the engine.
The advance points to the right corner of the engine also or number 1
cylinder as you face it.
This setup will allow a stock set of wires to fit on nicely. If you
mess with the clocking, the wires get nasty.
Other than that, the only Jeep engine was the Buick V6 odd fire that
needed a special #1 location.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Shaggie wrote:
>
> Hi all. Just wondering... Suppose your 304 V8 caught on fire and the
> distributor burned up... So you removed it and ordered a replacement.
> Plug wires all burned up too. Now you get the new distributor and
> plug wires. Can you just choose whatever terminal you want on the
> distributor to be #1 and go around in sequence as long as you run the
> plug wires to the right cylinders? I know on older VWs there is a
> specific #1 terminal because the distributors are designed to slightly
> retard cylinder #3 because it's behind the oil cooler so it tends to
> run hotter and retarding it a little bit helps it to not run as hot as
> it would if it was running at the same advance the other cylinders
> are. On a 304 Jeep can I just choose whichever terminal I want to be
> #1? Thanks in advance for input/help.
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
04-14-2004, 07:40 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: hooking up plug wires on distributor
You have to 'clock' your distributor like normal and on the V8 have
number 1 just to the short edge of the advance or the right as you face
the engine.
The advance points to the right corner of the engine also or number 1
cylinder as you face it.
This setup will allow a stock set of wires to fit on nicely. If you
mess with the clocking, the wires get nasty.
Other than that, the only Jeep engine was the Buick V6 odd fire that
needed a special #1 location.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Shaggie wrote:
>
> Hi all. Just wondering... Suppose your 304 V8 caught on fire and the
> distributor burned up... So you removed it and ordered a replacement.
> Plug wires all burned up too. Now you get the new distributor and
> plug wires. Can you just choose whatever terminal you want on the
> distributor to be #1 and go around in sequence as long as you run the
> plug wires to the right cylinders? I know on older VWs there is a
> specific #1 terminal because the distributors are designed to slightly
> retard cylinder #3 because it's behind the oil cooler so it tends to
> run hotter and retarding it a little bit helps it to not run as hot as
> it would if it was running at the same advance the other cylinders
> are. On a 304 Jeep can I just choose whichever terminal I want to be
> #1? Thanks in advance for input/help.
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
number 1 just to the short edge of the advance or the right as you face
the engine.
The advance points to the right corner of the engine also or number 1
cylinder as you face it.
This setup will allow a stock set of wires to fit on nicely. If you
mess with the clocking, the wires get nasty.
Other than that, the only Jeep engine was the Buick V6 odd fire that
needed a special #1 location.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Shaggie wrote:
>
> Hi all. Just wondering... Suppose your 304 V8 caught on fire and the
> distributor burned up... So you removed it and ordered a replacement.
> Plug wires all burned up too. Now you get the new distributor and
> plug wires. Can you just choose whatever terminal you want on the
> distributor to be #1 and go around in sequence as long as you run the
> plug wires to the right cylinders? I know on older VWs there is a
> specific #1 terminal because the distributors are designed to slightly
> retard cylinder #3 because it's behind the oil cooler so it tends to
> run hotter and retarding it a little bit helps it to not run as hot as
> it would if it was running at the same advance the other cylinders
> are. On a 304 Jeep can I just choose whichever terminal I want to be
> #1? Thanks in advance for input/help.
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
04-14-2004, 07:40 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: hooking up plug wires on distributor
You have to 'clock' your distributor like normal and on the V8 have
number 1 just to the short edge of the advance or the right as you face
the engine.
The advance points to the right corner of the engine also or number 1
cylinder as you face it.
This setup will allow a stock set of wires to fit on nicely. If you
mess with the clocking, the wires get nasty.
Other than that, the only Jeep engine was the Buick V6 odd fire that
needed a special #1 location.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Shaggie wrote:
>
> Hi all. Just wondering... Suppose your 304 V8 caught on fire and the
> distributor burned up... So you removed it and ordered a replacement.
> Plug wires all burned up too. Now you get the new distributor and
> plug wires. Can you just choose whatever terminal you want on the
> distributor to be #1 and go around in sequence as long as you run the
> plug wires to the right cylinders? I know on older VWs there is a
> specific #1 terminal because the distributors are designed to slightly
> retard cylinder #3 because it's behind the oil cooler so it tends to
> run hotter and retarding it a little bit helps it to not run as hot as
> it would if it was running at the same advance the other cylinders
> are. On a 304 Jeep can I just choose whichever terminal I want to be
> #1? Thanks in advance for input/help.
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
number 1 just to the short edge of the advance or the right as you face
the engine.
The advance points to the right corner of the engine also or number 1
cylinder as you face it.
This setup will allow a stock set of wires to fit on nicely. If you
mess with the clocking, the wires get nasty.
Other than that, the only Jeep engine was the Buick V6 odd fire that
needed a special #1 location.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Shaggie wrote:
>
> Hi all. Just wondering... Suppose your 304 V8 caught on fire and the
> distributor burned up... So you removed it and ordered a replacement.
> Plug wires all burned up too. Now you get the new distributor and
> plug wires. Can you just choose whatever terminal you want on the
> distributor to be #1 and go around in sequence as long as you run the
> plug wires to the right cylinders? I know on older VWs there is a
> specific #1 terminal because the distributors are designed to slightly
> retard cylinder #3 because it's behind the oil cooler so it tends to
> run hotter and retarding it a little bit helps it to not run as hot as
> it would if it was running at the same advance the other cylinders
> are. On a 304 Jeep can I just choose whichever terminal I want to be
> #1? Thanks in advance for input/help.
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
04-14-2004, 07:43 PM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: hooking up plug wires on distributor
If you set it TDC on the compression stroke, you will not be 180 deg off.
Take #1 plug out (and all the rest, to make it easy to turn with a big
socket wrench), and put a cork in the #1 hole, when you get to the
compression stroke, it will pop out. Then you need a new rotor button
installed. With the cap off, drop the distributor in, and the rotor button
electrode will pointing to position 1.
JimG
"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:v6ir70hcgu09d7aliefda8mrgf2gp5tbla@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 23:12:26 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>
> >Position 1 is determined when the rotor cap is pointing to it on the TDC
> >compression stoke. Then it's 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2 going CW, with the
> >cylinder id as follows:
> >left
> >7 5 3 1 (front, drivers side)
> >8 6 4 2
> >right
> >
> >The Haynes manual shows position 1 adjacent to the vacuum advance.
>
> But if your whole distributor cap/rotor got burned off and you have no
> reference then how do you know where the rotor cap is pointing to?
> See what I mean? I know how to put the engine at TDC for cylinder #1,
> but then I have to drop the distributor in place. I can't look at the
> rotor because it burned into nothingness. :) I'm gonna have to put
> the engine at TDC for cylinder #1 and then install the distributor and
> it seems like I could either get it right or be 180 degrees out of
> time when the gears mesh.
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
Take #1 plug out (and all the rest, to make it easy to turn with a big
socket wrench), and put a cork in the #1 hole, when you get to the
compression stroke, it will pop out. Then you need a new rotor button
installed. With the cap off, drop the distributor in, and the rotor button
electrode will pointing to position 1.
JimG
"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:v6ir70hcgu09d7aliefda8mrgf2gp5tbla@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 23:12:26 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>
> >Position 1 is determined when the rotor cap is pointing to it on the TDC
> >compression stoke. Then it's 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2 going CW, with the
> >cylinder id as follows:
> >left
> >7 5 3 1 (front, drivers side)
> >8 6 4 2
> >right
> >
> >The Haynes manual shows position 1 adjacent to the vacuum advance.
>
> But if your whole distributor cap/rotor got burned off and you have no
> reference then how do you know where the rotor cap is pointing to?
> See what I mean? I know how to put the engine at TDC for cylinder #1,
> but then I have to drop the distributor in place. I can't look at the
> rotor because it burned into nothingness. :) I'm gonna have to put
> the engine at TDC for cylinder #1 and then install the distributor and
> it seems like I could either get it right or be 180 degrees out of
> time when the gears mesh.
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
04-14-2004, 07:43 PM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: hooking up plug wires on distributor
If you set it TDC on the compression stroke, you will not be 180 deg off.
Take #1 plug out (and all the rest, to make it easy to turn with a big
socket wrench), and put a cork in the #1 hole, when you get to the
compression stroke, it will pop out. Then you need a new rotor button
installed. With the cap off, drop the distributor in, and the rotor button
electrode will pointing to position 1.
JimG
"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:v6ir70hcgu09d7aliefda8mrgf2gp5tbla@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 23:12:26 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>
> >Position 1 is determined when the rotor cap is pointing to it on the TDC
> >compression stoke. Then it's 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2 going CW, with the
> >cylinder id as follows:
> >left
> >7 5 3 1 (front, drivers side)
> >8 6 4 2
> >right
> >
> >The Haynes manual shows position 1 adjacent to the vacuum advance.
>
> But if your whole distributor cap/rotor got burned off and you have no
> reference then how do you know where the rotor cap is pointing to?
> See what I mean? I know how to put the engine at TDC for cylinder #1,
> but then I have to drop the distributor in place. I can't look at the
> rotor because it burned into nothingness. :) I'm gonna have to put
> the engine at TDC for cylinder #1 and then install the distributor and
> it seems like I could either get it right or be 180 degrees out of
> time when the gears mesh.
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
Take #1 plug out (and all the rest, to make it easy to turn with a big
socket wrench), and put a cork in the #1 hole, when you get to the
compression stroke, it will pop out. Then you need a new rotor button
installed. With the cap off, drop the distributor in, and the rotor button
electrode will pointing to position 1.
JimG
"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:v6ir70hcgu09d7aliefda8mrgf2gp5tbla@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 23:12:26 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>
> >Position 1 is determined when the rotor cap is pointing to it on the TDC
> >compression stoke. Then it's 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2 going CW, with the
> >cylinder id as follows:
> >left
> >7 5 3 1 (front, drivers side)
> >8 6 4 2
> >right
> >
> >The Haynes manual shows position 1 adjacent to the vacuum advance.
>
> But if your whole distributor cap/rotor got burned off and you have no
> reference then how do you know where the rotor cap is pointing to?
> See what I mean? I know how to put the engine at TDC for cylinder #1,
> but then I have to drop the distributor in place. I can't look at the
> rotor because it burned into nothingness. :) I'm gonna have to put
> the engine at TDC for cylinder #1 and then install the distributor and
> it seems like I could either get it right or be 180 degrees out of
> time when the gears mesh.
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
04-14-2004, 07:43 PM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: hooking up plug wires on distributor
If you set it TDC on the compression stroke, you will not be 180 deg off.
Take #1 plug out (and all the rest, to make it easy to turn with a big
socket wrench), and put a cork in the #1 hole, when you get to the
compression stroke, it will pop out. Then you need a new rotor button
installed. With the cap off, drop the distributor in, and the rotor button
electrode will pointing to position 1.
JimG
"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:v6ir70hcgu09d7aliefda8mrgf2gp5tbla@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 23:12:26 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>
> >Position 1 is determined when the rotor cap is pointing to it on the TDC
> >compression stoke. Then it's 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2 going CW, with the
> >cylinder id as follows:
> >left
> >7 5 3 1 (front, drivers side)
> >8 6 4 2
> >right
> >
> >The Haynes manual shows position 1 adjacent to the vacuum advance.
>
> But if your whole distributor cap/rotor got burned off and you have no
> reference then how do you know where the rotor cap is pointing to?
> See what I mean? I know how to put the engine at TDC for cylinder #1,
> but then I have to drop the distributor in place. I can't look at the
> rotor because it burned into nothingness. :) I'm gonna have to put
> the engine at TDC for cylinder #1 and then install the distributor and
> it seems like I could either get it right or be 180 degrees out of
> time when the gears mesh.
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
Take #1 plug out (and all the rest, to make it easy to turn with a big
socket wrench), and put a cork in the #1 hole, when you get to the
compression stroke, it will pop out. Then you need a new rotor button
installed. With the cap off, drop the distributor in, and the rotor button
electrode will pointing to position 1.
JimG
"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:v6ir70hcgu09d7aliefda8mrgf2gp5tbla@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 23:12:26 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>
> >Position 1 is determined when the rotor cap is pointing to it on the TDC
> >compression stoke. Then it's 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2 going CW, with the
> >cylinder id as follows:
> >left
> >7 5 3 1 (front, drivers side)
> >8 6 4 2
> >right
> >
> >The Haynes manual shows position 1 adjacent to the vacuum advance.
>
> But if your whole distributor cap/rotor got burned off and you have no
> reference then how do you know where the rotor cap is pointing to?
> See what I mean? I know how to put the engine at TDC for cylinder #1,
> but then I have to drop the distributor in place. I can't look at the
> rotor because it burned into nothingness. :) I'm gonna have to put
> the engine at TDC for cylinder #1 and then install the distributor and
> it seems like I could either get it right or be 180 degrees out of
> time when the gears mesh.
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
04-14-2004, 07:43 PM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: hooking up plug wires on distributor
If you set it TDC on the compression stroke, you will not be 180 deg off.
Take #1 plug out (and all the rest, to make it easy to turn with a big
socket wrench), and put a cork in the #1 hole, when you get to the
compression stroke, it will pop out. Then you need a new rotor button
installed. With the cap off, drop the distributor in, and the rotor button
electrode will pointing to position 1.
JimG
"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:v6ir70hcgu09d7aliefda8mrgf2gp5tbla@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 23:12:26 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>
> >Position 1 is determined when the rotor cap is pointing to it on the TDC
> >compression stoke. Then it's 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2 going CW, with the
> >cylinder id as follows:
> >left
> >7 5 3 1 (front, drivers side)
> >8 6 4 2
> >right
> >
> >The Haynes manual shows position 1 adjacent to the vacuum advance.
>
> But if your whole distributor cap/rotor got burned off and you have no
> reference then how do you know where the rotor cap is pointing to?
> See what I mean? I know how to put the engine at TDC for cylinder #1,
> but then I have to drop the distributor in place. I can't look at the
> rotor because it burned into nothingness. :) I'm gonna have to put
> the engine at TDC for cylinder #1 and then install the distributor and
> it seems like I could either get it right or be 180 degrees out of
> time when the gears mesh.
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
Take #1 plug out (and all the rest, to make it easy to turn with a big
socket wrench), and put a cork in the #1 hole, when you get to the
compression stroke, it will pop out. Then you need a new rotor button
installed. With the cap off, drop the distributor in, and the rotor button
electrode will pointing to position 1.
JimG
"Shaggie" <me@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:v6ir70hcgu09d7aliefda8mrgf2gp5tbla@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 23:12:26 GMT, "JimG" <jimg@2muchspam.com> wrote:
>
> >Position 1 is determined when the rotor cap is pointing to it on the TDC
> >compression stoke. Then it's 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2 going CW, with the
> >cylinder id as follows:
> >left
> >7 5 3 1 (front, drivers side)
> >8 6 4 2
> >right
> >
> >The Haynes manual shows position 1 adjacent to the vacuum advance.
>
> But if your whole distributor cap/rotor got burned off and you have no
> reference then how do you know where the rotor cap is pointing to?
> See what I mean? I know how to put the engine at TDC for cylinder #1,
> but then I have to drop the distributor in place. I can't look at the
> rotor because it burned into nothingness. :) I'm gonna have to put
> the engine at TDC for cylinder #1 and then install the distributor and
> it seems like I could either get it right or be 180 degrees out of
> time when the gears mesh.
>
> "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> :wq!
04-14-2004, 07:43 PM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: hooking up plug wires on distributor
I mean compression stroke on #1 for 'clocking' the distributor....
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> You have to 'clock' your distributor like normal and on the V8 have
> number 1 just to the short edge of the advance or the right as you face
> the engine.
>
> The advance points to the right corner of the engine also or number 1
> cylinder as you face it.
>
> This setup will allow a stock set of wires to fit on nicely. If you
> mess with the clocking, the wires get nasty.
>
> Other than that, the only Jeep engine was the Buick V6 odd fire that
> needed a special #1 location.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Shaggie wrote:
> >
> > Hi all. Just wondering... Suppose your 304 V8 caught on fire and the
> > distributor burned up... So you removed it and ordered a replacement.
> > Plug wires all burned up too. Now you get the new distributor and
> > plug wires. Can you just choose whatever terminal you want on the
> > distributor to be #1 and go around in sequence as long as you run the
> > plug wires to the right cylinders? I know on older VWs there is a
> > specific #1 terminal because the distributors are designed to slightly
> > retard cylinder #3 because it's behind the oil cooler so it tends to
> > run hotter and retarding it a little bit helps it to not run as hot as
> > it would if it was running at the same advance the other cylinders
> > are. On a 304 Jeep can I just choose whichever terminal I want to be
> > #1? Thanks in advance for input/help.
> >
> > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> > :wq!
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> You have to 'clock' your distributor like normal and on the V8 have
> number 1 just to the short edge of the advance or the right as you face
> the engine.
>
> The advance points to the right corner of the engine also or number 1
> cylinder as you face it.
>
> This setup will allow a stock set of wires to fit on nicely. If you
> mess with the clocking, the wires get nasty.
>
> Other than that, the only Jeep engine was the Buick V6 odd fire that
> needed a special #1 location.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Shaggie wrote:
> >
> > Hi all. Just wondering... Suppose your 304 V8 caught on fire and the
> > distributor burned up... So you removed it and ordered a replacement.
> > Plug wires all burned up too. Now you get the new distributor and
> > plug wires. Can you just choose whatever terminal you want on the
> > distributor to be #1 and go around in sequence as long as you run the
> > plug wires to the right cylinders? I know on older VWs there is a
> > specific #1 terminal because the distributors are designed to slightly
> > retard cylinder #3 because it's behind the oil cooler so it tends to
> > run hotter and retarding it a little bit helps it to not run as hot as
> > it would if it was running at the same advance the other cylinders
> > are. On a 304 Jeep can I just choose whichever terminal I want to be
> > #1? Thanks in advance for input/help.
> >
> > "I can hammer it back into shape later."
> > :wq!