Engine running,
alt-post to alt case, 1.1V
alt-post to jeep frame 12.2

johnp

 

Engine running,
alt-post to alt case, 1.1V
alt-post to jeep frame 12.2

johnp

 

Engine running,
alt-post to alt case, 1.1V
alt-post to jeep frame 12.2

johnp

 

Alternator is not turning on. See my other post.

Mike

Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> Engine running,
> alt-post to alt case, 1.1V
> alt-post to jeep frame 12.2
>
> johnp

 

Alternator is not turning on. See my other post.

Mike

Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> Engine running,
> alt-post to alt case, 1.1V
> alt-post to jeep frame 12.2
>
> johnp

 

Alternator is not turning on. See my other post.

Mike

Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> Engine running,
> alt-post to alt case, 1.1V
> alt-post to jeep frame 12.2
>
> johnp

 

I just checked on mine and the brown wire goes to pin #1 on the
alternator case.

Mike

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> Ok, the alternator is not turning on.
>
> The small brown wire should have 10-14 volts on it when the engine is
> running or when the key is in the 'on' position. This wire should/could
> be lower volts than the direct power line so no worries, but it must
> have 10 volts at least.
>
> I think you said it had power right?
>
> If so, take a hammer and give the alternator case a whack while it is
> running. (stuck brushes syndrome)
>
> If that doesn't bring it up to 14V+, shut it off and see if you can hand
> slip the alternator pulley in the belt. If it slips, the alternator
> won't turn on likely, so tighten or replace it if already tight.
>
> The other 'real' sneaky one is the small white plug on the back of the
> alternator...
>
> The ****** changed the order of the pins right around 1990. So the
> brown and red wires could just be in the wrong place. Seriously.
>
> They can be removed from the plug with a small screw driver by pushing
> down on the clip on the back of the brass piece from the front side and
> pulling from the wire side of the plug. You then might have to bend the
> clip back up to hold good again.
>
> Check that out and get back to us please.
>
> Mike
>
> Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
> >
> > Mike,
> > re-cleaned all connectons, wire-brush, electrical cleaner, sandpaper,
> > electrical cleaner, whiped with rag,
> > reconnected all wires, to relay and alt,
> >
> > re-tested, with volt-meter,
> >
> > Batt engin off,
> > 12.49V
> > -Batt-to-Relay,12.49V
> > -Batt-to-post on back of Alt,12.49V
> >
> > Running at idle speed,
> >
> > Batt 12.25V
> > -Batt-to-Relay,12.24V
> > -Batt-to post on back of Alt,12.24
> >
> > johnp

 

I just checked on mine and the brown wire goes to pin #1 on the
alternator case.

Mike

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> Ok, the alternator is not turning on.
>
> The small brown wire should have 10-14 volts on it when the engine is
> running or when the key is in the 'on' position. This wire should/could
> be lower volts than the direct power line so no worries, but it must
> have 10 volts at least.
>
> I think you said it had power right?
>
> If so, take a hammer and give the alternator case a whack while it is
> running. (stuck brushes syndrome)
>
> If that doesn't bring it up to 14V+, shut it off and see if you can hand
> slip the alternator pulley in the belt. If it slips, the alternator
> won't turn on likely, so tighten or replace it if already tight.
>
> The other 'real' sneaky one is the small white plug on the back of the
> alternator...
>
> The ****** changed the order of the pins right around 1990. So the
> brown and red wires could just be in the wrong place. Seriously.
>
> They can be removed from the plug with a small screw driver by pushing
> down on the clip on the back of the brass piece from the front side and
> pulling from the wire side of the plug. You then might have to bend the
> clip back up to hold good again.
>
> Check that out and get back to us please.
>
> Mike
>
> Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
> >
> > Mike,
> > re-cleaned all connectons, wire-brush, electrical cleaner, sandpaper,
> > electrical cleaner, whiped with rag,
> > reconnected all wires, to relay and alt,
> >
> > re-tested, with volt-meter,
> >
> > Batt engin off,
> > 12.49V
> > -Batt-to-Relay,12.49V
> > -Batt-to-post on back of Alt,12.49V
> >
> > Running at idle speed,
> >
> > Batt 12.25V
> > -Batt-to-Relay,12.24V
> > -Batt-to post on back of Alt,12.24
> >
> > johnp

 

I just checked on mine and the brown wire goes to pin #1 on the
alternator case.

Mike

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> Ok, the alternator is not turning on.
>
> The small brown wire should have 10-14 volts on it when the engine is
> running or when the key is in the 'on' position. This wire should/could
> be lower volts than the direct power line so no worries, but it must
> have 10 volts at least.
>
> I think you said it had power right?
>
> If so, take a hammer and give the alternator case a whack while it is
> running. (stuck brushes syndrome)
>
> If that doesn't bring it up to 14V+, shut it off and see if you can hand
> slip the alternator pulley in the belt. If it slips, the alternator
> won't turn on likely, so tighten or replace it if already tight.
>
> The other 'real' sneaky one is the small white plug on the back of the
> alternator...
>
> The ****** changed the order of the pins right around 1990. So the
> brown and red wires could just be in the wrong place. Seriously.
>
> They can be removed from the plug with a small screw driver by pushing
> down on the clip on the back of the brass piece from the front side and
> pulling from the wire side of the plug. You then might have to bend the
> clip back up to hold good again.
>
> Check that out and get back to us please.
>
> Mike
>
> Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
> >
> > Mike,
> > re-cleaned all connectons, wire-brush, electrical cleaner, sandpaper,
> > electrical cleaner, whiped with rag,
> > reconnected all wires, to relay and alt,
> >
> > re-tested, with volt-meter,
> >
> > Batt engin off,
> > 12.49V
> > -Batt-to-Relay,12.49V
> > -Batt-to-post on back of Alt,12.49V
> >
> > Running at idle speed,
> >
> > Batt 12.25V
> > -Batt-to-Relay,12.24V
> > -Batt-to post on back of Alt,12.24
> >
> > johnp

 

Ok, the alternator is not turning on.


The small brown wire should have 10-14 volts on it when the engine is
running or when the key is in the 'on' position. This wire
should/could
be lower volts than the direct power line so no worries, but it must
have 10 volts at least.

Mike,
brown wire has 11.85V key on
enginge running, 11.64-11.71V

alt to batt-12.21V


I think you said it had power right?


If so, take a hammer and give the alternator case a whack while it is
running. (stuck brushes syndrome)

Mike, whacked it 5 times 4 for you 1 good one for me....grin,,,
12.21V,,grrrrr, alt to batt,,


If that doesn't bring it up to 14V+, shut it off and see if you can
hand
slip the alternator pulley in the belt. If it slips, the alternator
won't turn on likely, so tighten or replace it if already tight.

tried your "slip-test," its tight.


The other 'real' sneaky one is the small white plug on the back of the
alternator...


The ****** changed the order of the pins right around 1990. So the
brown and red wires could just be in the wrong place. Seriously.


They can be removed from the plug with a small screw driver by pushing
down on the clip on the back of the brass piece from the front side and

pulling from the wire side of the plug. You then might have to bend
the
clip back up to hold good again.


Check that out and get back to us please.

original
wireing,,,
12.9V atl-to-batt
12.10V atl-to- ground frame
1.2V alt-to-case

wires reveresed,
Alt-to batt 12.21V
alt-to-ground frame 12.18V
alt-to-case .6V

johnP
again thanks for helpng me out here,


Mike