HELP,,electrical nightmare 90YJ 2.5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Mike,
this relay,,starter-relay,
is this the relay on the firewall?
sorry for my stupidity,
could i have fried this relay?
ive cleaned all connections,
im getting voltage from batt to alt on all tests,
im getting voltage in my brown wire on the "two-wire" plug when the key
is on,
,
so i figure ill change out that relay and my fusable links next,
i was going to try a new relay first, but schucks dont even know what
it is,
its not in there computer, or books,
then my fusable links,
unless theres a test for the relay??
electricaly challenged,,now with nightmares,
maybe start drinking, sell the jeep,
johnp
johnp
this relay,,starter-relay,
is this the relay on the firewall?
sorry for my stupidity,
could i have fried this relay?
ive cleaned all connections,
im getting voltage from batt to alt on all tests,
im getting voltage in my brown wire on the "two-wire" plug when the key
is on,
,
so i figure ill change out that relay and my fusable links next,
i was going to try a new relay first, but schucks dont even know what
it is,
its not in there computer, or books,
then my fusable links,
unless theres a test for the relay??
electricaly challenged,,now with nightmares,
maybe start drinking, sell the jeep,
johnp
johnp
Guest
Posts: n/a
Mike,
this relay,,starter-relay,
is this the relay on the firewall?
sorry for my stupidity,
could i have fried this relay?
ive cleaned all connections,
im getting voltage from batt to alt on all tests,
im getting voltage in my brown wire on the "two-wire" plug when the key
is on,
,
so i figure ill change out that relay and my fusable links next,
i was going to try a new relay first, but schucks dont even know what
it is,
its not in there computer, or books,
then my fusable links,
unless theres a test for the relay??
electricaly challenged,,now with nightmares,
maybe start drinking, sell the jeep,
johnp
johnp
this relay,,starter-relay,
is this the relay on the firewall?
sorry for my stupidity,
could i have fried this relay?
ive cleaned all connections,
im getting voltage from batt to alt on all tests,
im getting voltage in my brown wire on the "two-wire" plug when the key
is on,
,
so i figure ill change out that relay and my fusable links next,
i was going to try a new relay first, but schucks dont even know what
it is,
its not in there computer, or books,
then my fusable links,
unless theres a test for the relay??
electricaly challenged,,now with nightmares,
maybe start drinking, sell the jeep,
johnp
johnp
Guest
Posts: n/a
You have to nail the volt drop down and get rid of it.
I start at the battery posts with my volt meter. I will use your
numbers.
Post to post reads 12.7V
From the negative post to the positive clamp 'must' read 12.7V.
From the negative post to the starter relay post 'must' read 12.7 or
there is a bad connection.
From the negative post to the alternator positive 'must' read 12.7V.
So you have 12.7 as far as the relay 'post'. That means that connection
to the battery is fine.
You then read 12.6 at the alternator post. Trouble.
The trouble is from the relay post to the alternator post.
If the connections are spotless, then the fuse link wire has issues. It
can blow and partially connect still.
I have some small cables with alligator clips on the ends I use for
jumping things to test them. Something like that could be used to jump
from the relay post to the alternator post to see if the volts stabilize
Before you get into that stuff, please give us the volt readings with
things clean and everything plugged in.
I compare battery post to battery post reading to the alternator post
and alternator case volt reading. They must be exactly the same.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> O.K. im gonna go clean it again, be back in 20.
>
> johnp
I start at the battery posts with my volt meter. I will use your
numbers.
Post to post reads 12.7V
From the negative post to the positive clamp 'must' read 12.7V.
From the negative post to the starter relay post 'must' read 12.7 or
there is a bad connection.
From the negative post to the alternator positive 'must' read 12.7V.
So you have 12.7 as far as the relay 'post'. That means that connection
to the battery is fine.
You then read 12.6 at the alternator post. Trouble.
The trouble is from the relay post to the alternator post.
If the connections are spotless, then the fuse link wire has issues. It
can blow and partially connect still.
I have some small cables with alligator clips on the ends I use for
jumping things to test them. Something like that could be used to jump
from the relay post to the alternator post to see if the volts stabilize
Before you get into that stuff, please give us the volt readings with
things clean and everything plugged in.
I compare battery post to battery post reading to the alternator post
and alternator case volt reading. They must be exactly the same.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> O.K. im gonna go clean it again, be back in 20.
>
> johnp
Guest
Posts: n/a
You have to nail the volt drop down and get rid of it.
I start at the battery posts with my volt meter. I will use your
numbers.
Post to post reads 12.7V
From the negative post to the positive clamp 'must' read 12.7V.
From the negative post to the starter relay post 'must' read 12.7 or
there is a bad connection.
From the negative post to the alternator positive 'must' read 12.7V.
So you have 12.7 as far as the relay 'post'. That means that connection
to the battery is fine.
You then read 12.6 at the alternator post. Trouble.
The trouble is from the relay post to the alternator post.
If the connections are spotless, then the fuse link wire has issues. It
can blow and partially connect still.
I have some small cables with alligator clips on the ends I use for
jumping things to test them. Something like that could be used to jump
from the relay post to the alternator post to see if the volts stabilize
Before you get into that stuff, please give us the volt readings with
things clean and everything plugged in.
I compare battery post to battery post reading to the alternator post
and alternator case volt reading. They must be exactly the same.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> O.K. im gonna go clean it again, be back in 20.
>
> johnp
I start at the battery posts with my volt meter. I will use your
numbers.
Post to post reads 12.7V
From the negative post to the positive clamp 'must' read 12.7V.
From the negative post to the starter relay post 'must' read 12.7 or
there is a bad connection.
From the negative post to the alternator positive 'must' read 12.7V.
So you have 12.7 as far as the relay 'post'. That means that connection
to the battery is fine.
You then read 12.6 at the alternator post. Trouble.
The trouble is from the relay post to the alternator post.
If the connections are spotless, then the fuse link wire has issues. It
can blow and partially connect still.
I have some small cables with alligator clips on the ends I use for
jumping things to test them. Something like that could be used to jump
from the relay post to the alternator post to see if the volts stabilize
Before you get into that stuff, please give us the volt readings with
things clean and everything plugged in.
I compare battery post to battery post reading to the alternator post
and alternator case volt reading. They must be exactly the same.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> O.K. im gonna go clean it again, be back in 20.
>
> johnp
Guest
Posts: n/a
You have to nail the volt drop down and get rid of it.
I start at the battery posts with my volt meter. I will use your
numbers.
Post to post reads 12.7V
From the negative post to the positive clamp 'must' read 12.7V.
From the negative post to the starter relay post 'must' read 12.7 or
there is a bad connection.
From the negative post to the alternator positive 'must' read 12.7V.
So you have 12.7 as far as the relay 'post'. That means that connection
to the battery is fine.
You then read 12.6 at the alternator post. Trouble.
The trouble is from the relay post to the alternator post.
If the connections are spotless, then the fuse link wire has issues. It
can blow and partially connect still.
I have some small cables with alligator clips on the ends I use for
jumping things to test them. Something like that could be used to jump
from the relay post to the alternator post to see if the volts stabilize
Before you get into that stuff, please give us the volt readings with
things clean and everything plugged in.
I compare battery post to battery post reading to the alternator post
and alternator case volt reading. They must be exactly the same.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> O.K. im gonna go clean it again, be back in 20.
>
> johnp
I start at the battery posts with my volt meter. I will use your
numbers.
Post to post reads 12.7V
From the negative post to the positive clamp 'must' read 12.7V.
From the negative post to the starter relay post 'must' read 12.7 or
there is a bad connection.
From the negative post to the alternator positive 'must' read 12.7V.
So you have 12.7 as far as the relay 'post'. That means that connection
to the battery is fine.
You then read 12.6 at the alternator post. Trouble.
The trouble is from the relay post to the alternator post.
If the connections are spotless, then the fuse link wire has issues. It
can blow and partially connect still.
I have some small cables with alligator clips on the ends I use for
jumping things to test them. Something like that could be used to jump
from the relay post to the alternator post to see if the volts stabilize
Before you get into that stuff, please give us the volt readings with
things clean and everything plugged in.
I compare battery post to battery post reading to the alternator post
and alternator case volt reading. They must be exactly the same.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> O.K. im gonna go clean it again, be back in 20.
>
> johnp
Guest
Posts: n/a
Mike,
re-cleaned all connectons, wire-brush, electrical cleaner, sandpaper,
electrical cleaner, whiped with rag,
reconnected all wires, to relay and alt,
re-tested, with volt-meter,
Batt engin off,
12.49V
-Batt-to-Relay,12.49V
-Batt-to-post on back of Alt,12.49V
Running at idle speed,
Batt 12.25V
-Batt-to-Relay,12.24V
-Batt-to post on back of Alt,12.24
johnp
re-cleaned all connectons, wire-brush, electrical cleaner, sandpaper,
electrical cleaner, whiped with rag,
reconnected all wires, to relay and alt,
re-tested, with volt-meter,
Batt engin off,
12.49V
-Batt-to-Relay,12.49V
-Batt-to-post on back of Alt,12.49V
Running at idle speed,
Batt 12.25V
-Batt-to-Relay,12.24V
-Batt-to post on back of Alt,12.24
johnp
Guest
Posts: n/a
Mike,
re-cleaned all connectons, wire-brush, electrical cleaner, sandpaper,
electrical cleaner, whiped with rag,
reconnected all wires, to relay and alt,
re-tested, with volt-meter,
Batt engin off,
12.49V
-Batt-to-Relay,12.49V
-Batt-to-post on back of Alt,12.49V
Running at idle speed,
Batt 12.25V
-Batt-to-Relay,12.24V
-Batt-to post on back of Alt,12.24
johnp
re-cleaned all connectons, wire-brush, electrical cleaner, sandpaper,
electrical cleaner, whiped with rag,
reconnected all wires, to relay and alt,
re-tested, with volt-meter,
Batt engin off,
12.49V
-Batt-to-Relay,12.49V
-Batt-to-post on back of Alt,12.49V
Running at idle speed,
Batt 12.25V
-Batt-to-Relay,12.24V
-Batt-to post on back of Alt,12.24
johnp


