Re: Help: CJ idle/running problem
 

Jo did pass the time by typing:
> "reddish brown"
> rust?

MMT / gasoline additives will make plugs that color and
it's normal.

> Rob wrote:
>
>> That does sound like a nightmare.
>>
>> It's an '83 CJ-7 with the 258 I6. The owner replaced the stock carb
>> with a Holley carb:
>> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html
>>
>> I checked the plugs and none were oily, though all looked "well
>> seasoned". Roughly the look and feel of sandpaper - some light in
>> color, others more reddish brown.
>>
>> The motor was rebuilt in '97 about 14k miles ago.

Re: Help: CJ idle/running problem
 

With oil all over the place, I think I would check inside the
distributor cap for oil.

I then would drain the oil looking for metal flakes.

For not idling, I would suspect the gas filter first. They are strange
too, they have an up and down. The center outlet goes to the carb and
the top outlet goes to the return line. If the filter gets plugged it
can pump too much back to the tank if it isn't in right side up. It
also can syphon gas back to the tank when it sits.

Mike

Rob wrote:
>
> That does sound like a nightmare.
>
> It's an '83 CJ-7 with the 258 I6. The owner replaced the stock carb
> with a Holley carb:
> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html
>
> I checked the plugs and none were oily, though all looked "well
> seasoned". Roughly the look and feel of sandpaper - some light in
> color, others more reddish brown.
>
> The motor was rebuilt in '97 about 14k miles ago.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Rob
>
> On Mon, 17 May 2004 11:16:11 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >You really don't want the same answer for both....
> >
> >Too much oil will hit the crankshaft. The crankshaft then turns the oil
> >to foam. The oil pump pumps foam to the bearings. The engine then
> >starts slowing down while seizing up from lack of oil.
> >
> >Or hopefully you can just drain the sucker and put the right amount in
> >and that will stop the oil all over the place.
> >
> >You 'really' need to tell us what 'kind' of engine and the year for us
> >to point you to say a common carb fix for no idle, leaky valve cover
> >issues with one engine, etc...
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >Rob wrote:
> >>
> >> Guess I really have two questions - first about the over filled oil /
> >> blown seal. Second about how to diagnose the suddone failure to keep
> >> an idle.
> >>
> >> Thanks again,
> >>
> >> Rob
> >>
> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 02:55:16 GMT, Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> >
> >> >I just returned from buying a CJ from about 280 miles away. While I
> >> >was there I tested everything and all was a-ok. I checked the fluids
> >> >and wanted to make sure everything was ok for the roadtrip home.
> >> >
> >> >Oil indicated a little low so we added a quart. Still showed low, but
> >> >the guy then says that the dripstick broke off and when he replaced it
> >> >he made his own markings - ok, so I can't go by the dipstick to tell
> >> >if its full or not.
> >> >
> >> >Close to home it started idling really rough at slow speeds or with
> >> >the clutch in. Soon it began to die completely with the clutch in.
> >> >
> >> >It's sat for a few hours, temps all back down and it still won't stay
> >> >running. There;s oil all over the valve cover and some puddled around
> >> >the intake manifold.
> >> >
> >> >I suspect there may have been too much oil. Question: If so, what
> >> >damage may have been done and how can I tell? I understand that in
> >> >some cars it may blow a seal. Knowing I'm going to look like an
> >> >idiot, can someone wlak me through how to diagnose a blown seal?
> >> >
> >> >Thanks a buch - it's painful to just come home and be excited about
> >> >the CJ and I can't even drive it!
> >> >
> >> >Rob
> >> >

Re: Help: CJ idle/running problem
 

With oil all over the place, I think I would check inside the
distributor cap for oil.

I then would drain the oil looking for metal flakes.

For not idling, I would suspect the gas filter first. They are strange
too, they have an up and down. The center outlet goes to the carb and
the top outlet goes to the return line. If the filter gets plugged it
can pump too much back to the tank if it isn't in right side up. It
also can syphon gas back to the tank when it sits.

Mike

Rob wrote:
>
> That does sound like a nightmare.
>
> It's an '83 CJ-7 with the 258 I6. The owner replaced the stock carb
> with a Holley carb:
> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html
>
> I checked the plugs and none were oily, though all looked "well
> seasoned". Roughly the look and feel of sandpaper - some light in
> color, others more reddish brown.
>
> The motor was rebuilt in '97 about 14k miles ago.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Rob
>
> On Mon, 17 May 2004 11:16:11 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >You really don't want the same answer for both....
> >
> >Too much oil will hit the crankshaft. The crankshaft then turns the oil
> >to foam. The oil pump pumps foam to the bearings. The engine then
> >starts slowing down while seizing up from lack of oil.
> >
> >Or hopefully you can just drain the sucker and put the right amount in
> >and that will stop the oil all over the place.
> >
> >You 'really' need to tell us what 'kind' of engine and the year for us
> >to point you to say a common carb fix for no idle, leaky valve cover
> >issues with one engine, etc...
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >Rob wrote:
> >>
> >> Guess I really have two questions - first about the over filled oil /
> >> blown seal. Second about how to diagnose the suddone failure to keep
> >> an idle.
> >>
> >> Thanks again,
> >>
> >> Rob
> >>
> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 02:55:16 GMT, Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> >
> >> >I just returned from buying a CJ from about 280 miles away. While I
> >> >was there I tested everything and all was a-ok. I checked the fluids
> >> >and wanted to make sure everything was ok for the roadtrip home.
> >> >
> >> >Oil indicated a little low so we added a quart. Still showed low, but
> >> >the guy then says that the dripstick broke off and when he replaced it
> >> >he made his own markings - ok, so I can't go by the dipstick to tell
> >> >if its full or not.
> >> >
> >> >Close to home it started idling really rough at slow speeds or with
> >> >the clutch in. Soon it began to die completely with the clutch in.
> >> >
> >> >It's sat for a few hours, temps all back down and it still won't stay
> >> >running. There;s oil all over the valve cover and some puddled around
> >> >the intake manifold.
> >> >
> >> >I suspect there may have been too much oil. Question: If so, what
> >> >damage may have been done and how can I tell? I understand that in
> >> >some cars it may blow a seal. Knowing I'm going to look like an
> >> >idiot, can someone wlak me through how to diagnose a blown seal?
> >> >
> >> >Thanks a buch - it's painful to just come home and be excited about
> >> >the CJ and I can't even drive it!
> >> >
> >> >Rob
> >> >

Re: Help: CJ idle/running problem
 

With oil all over the place, I think I would check inside the
distributor cap for oil.

I then would drain the oil looking for metal flakes.

For not idling, I would suspect the gas filter first. They are strange
too, they have an up and down. The center outlet goes to the carb and
the top outlet goes to the return line. If the filter gets plugged it
can pump too much back to the tank if it isn't in right side up. It
also can syphon gas back to the tank when it sits.

Mike

Rob wrote:
>
> That does sound like a nightmare.
>
> It's an '83 CJ-7 with the 258 I6. The owner replaced the stock carb
> with a Holley carb:
> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html
>
> I checked the plugs and none were oily, though all looked "well
> seasoned". Roughly the look and feel of sandpaper - some light in
> color, others more reddish brown.
>
> The motor was rebuilt in '97 about 14k miles ago.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Rob
>
> On Mon, 17 May 2004 11:16:11 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >You really don't want the same answer for both....
> >
> >Too much oil will hit the crankshaft. The crankshaft then turns the oil
> >to foam. The oil pump pumps foam to the bearings. The engine then
> >starts slowing down while seizing up from lack of oil.
> >
> >Or hopefully you can just drain the sucker and put the right amount in
> >and that will stop the oil all over the place.
> >
> >You 'really' need to tell us what 'kind' of engine and the year for us
> >to point you to say a common carb fix for no idle, leaky valve cover
> >issues with one engine, etc...
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >Rob wrote:
> >>
> >> Guess I really have two questions - first about the over filled oil /
> >> blown seal. Second about how to diagnose the suddone failure to keep
> >> an idle.
> >>
> >> Thanks again,
> >>
> >> Rob
> >>
> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 02:55:16 GMT, Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> >
> >> >I just returned from buying a CJ from about 280 miles away. While I
> >> >was there I tested everything and all was a-ok. I checked the fluids
> >> >and wanted to make sure everything was ok for the roadtrip home.
> >> >
> >> >Oil indicated a little low so we added a quart. Still showed low, but
> >> >the guy then says that the dripstick broke off and when he replaced it
> >> >he made his own markings - ok, so I can't go by the dipstick to tell
> >> >if its full or not.
> >> >
> >> >Close to home it started idling really rough at slow speeds or with
> >> >the clutch in. Soon it began to die completely with the clutch in.
> >> >
> >> >It's sat for a few hours, temps all back down and it still won't stay
> >> >running. There;s oil all over the valve cover and some puddled around
> >> >the intake manifold.
> >> >
> >> >I suspect there may have been too much oil. Question: If so, what
> >> >damage may have been done and how can I tell? I understand that in
> >> >some cars it may blow a seal. Knowing I'm going to look like an
> >> >idiot, can someone wlak me through how to diagnose a blown seal?
> >> >
> >> >Thanks a buch - it's painful to just come home and be excited about
> >> >the CJ and I can't even drive it!
> >> >
> >> >Rob
> >> >

Re: Help: CJ idle/running problem
 

With oil all over the place, I think I would check inside the
distributor cap for oil.

I then would drain the oil looking for metal flakes.

For not idling, I would suspect the gas filter first. They are strange
too, they have an up and down. The center outlet goes to the carb and
the top outlet goes to the return line. If the filter gets plugged it
can pump too much back to the tank if it isn't in right side up. It
also can syphon gas back to the tank when it sits.

Mike

Rob wrote:
>
> That does sound like a nightmare.
>
> It's an '83 CJ-7 with the 258 I6. The owner replaced the stock carb
> with a Holley carb:
> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html
>
> I checked the plugs and none were oily, though all looked "well
> seasoned". Roughly the look and feel of sandpaper - some light in
> color, others more reddish brown.
>
> The motor was rebuilt in '97 about 14k miles ago.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Rob
>
> On Mon, 17 May 2004 11:16:11 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >You really don't want the same answer for both....
> >
> >Too much oil will hit the crankshaft. The crankshaft then turns the oil
> >to foam. The oil pump pumps foam to the bearings. The engine then
> >starts slowing down while seizing up from lack of oil.
> >
> >Or hopefully you can just drain the sucker and put the right amount in
> >and that will stop the oil all over the place.
> >
> >You 'really' need to tell us what 'kind' of engine and the year for us
> >to point you to say a common carb fix for no idle, leaky valve cover
> >issues with one engine, etc...
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >Rob wrote:
> >>
> >> Guess I really have two questions - first about the over filled oil /
> >> blown seal. Second about how to diagnose the suddone failure to keep
> >> an idle.
> >>
> >> Thanks again,
> >>
> >> Rob
> >>
> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 02:55:16 GMT, Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> >
> >> >I just returned from buying a CJ from about 280 miles away. While I
> >> >was there I tested everything and all was a-ok. I checked the fluids
> >> >and wanted to make sure everything was ok for the roadtrip home.
> >> >
> >> >Oil indicated a little low so we added a quart. Still showed low, but
> >> >the guy then says that the dripstick broke off and when he replaced it
> >> >he made his own markings - ok, so I can't go by the dipstick to tell
> >> >if its full or not.
> >> >
> >> >Close to home it started idling really rough at slow speeds or with
> >> >the clutch in. Soon it began to die completely with the clutch in.
> >> >
> >> >It's sat for a few hours, temps all back down and it still won't stay
> >> >running. There;s oil all over the valve cover and some puddled around
> >> >the intake manifold.
> >> >
> >> >I suspect there may have been too much oil. Question: If so, what
> >> >damage may have been done and how can I tell? I understand that in
> >> >some cars it may blow a seal. Knowing I'm going to look like an
> >> >idiot, can someone wlak me through how to diagnose a blown seal?
> >> >
> >> >Thanks a buch - it's painful to just come home and be excited about
> >> >the CJ and I can't even drive it!
> >> >
> >> >Rob
> >> >

Re: Help: CJ idle/running problem
 

I'll take a look at the filter - that might have something to do with
something I noticed today.

I replaced all the spark plugs, removed and inspected each plug wire
at both ends (including the one going to and from the distributor
itself.)

I cleaned the contact point in the distributor cap and sanded off some
minor corrosion on the rotor.

I bought a little neon light used for testing the distributor and
wires and will try that tonight when it's dark.

Here's the weird thing. After the plug changes and distributor
cleaning, it started fine and idled fine. As soon as I started
backing down the driveway it began idling bad and started to die. I
could barely get it back up the driveway. So ... it at least knows
how to run right ... it just doesn't want to be driven anywhere! :)


On Tue, 18 May 2004 18:04:18 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>With oil all over the place, I think I would check inside the
>distributor cap for oil.
>
>I then would drain the oil looking for metal flakes.
>
>For not idling, I would suspect the gas filter first. They are strange
>too, they have an up and down. The center outlet goes to the carb and
>the top outlet goes to the return line. If the filter gets plugged it
>can pump too much back to the tank if it isn't in right side up. It
>also can syphon gas back to the tank when it sits.
>
>Mike
>
>Rob wrote:
>>
>> That does sound like a nightmare.
>>
>> It's an '83 CJ-7 with the 258 I6. The owner replaced the stock carb
>> with a Holley carb:
>> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html
>>
>> I checked the plugs and none were oily, though all looked "well
>> seasoned". Roughly the look and feel of sandpaper - some light in
>> color, others more reddish brown.
>>
>> The motor was rebuilt in '97 about 14k miles ago.
>>
>> Thanks again,
>>
>> Rob
>>
>> On Mon, 17 May 2004 11:16:11 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >You really don't want the same answer for both....
>> >
>> >Too much oil will hit the crankshaft. The crankshaft then turns the oil
>> >to foam. The oil pump pumps foam to the bearings. The engine then
>> >starts slowing down while seizing up from lack of oil.
>> >
>> >Or hopefully you can just drain the sucker and put the right amount in
>> >and that will stop the oil all over the place.
>> >
>> >You 'really' need to tell us what 'kind' of engine and the year for us
>> >to point you to say a common carb fix for no idle, leaky valve cover
>> >issues with one engine, etc...
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >
>> >Rob wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Guess I really have two questions - first about the over filled oil /
>> >> blown seal. Second about how to diagnose the suddone failure to keep
>> >> an idle.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks again,
>> >>
>> >> Rob
>> >>
>> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 02:55:16 GMT, Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >
>> >> >I just returned from buying a CJ from about 280 miles away. While I
>> >> >was there I tested everything and all was a-ok. I checked the fluids
>> >> >and wanted to make sure everything was ok for the roadtrip home.
>> >> >
>> >> >Oil indicated a little low so we added a quart. Still showed low, but
>> >> >the guy then says that the dripstick broke off and when he replaced it
>> >> >he made his own markings - ok, so I can't go by the dipstick to tell
>> >> >if its full or not.
>> >> >
>> >> >Close to home it started idling really rough at slow speeds or with
>> >> >the clutch in. Soon it began to die completely with the clutch in.
>> >> >
>> >> >It's sat for a few hours, temps all back down and it still won't stay
>> >> >running. There;s oil all over the valve cover and some puddled around
>> >> >the intake manifold.
>> >> >
>> >> >I suspect there may have been too much oil. Question: If so, what
>> >> >damage may have been done and how can I tell? I understand that in
>> >> >some cars it may blow a seal. Knowing I'm going to look like an
>> >> >idiot, can someone wlak me through how to diagnose a blown seal?
>> >> >
>> >> >Thanks a buch - it's painful to just come home and be excited about
>> >> >the CJ and I can't even drive it!
>> >> >
>> >> >Rob
>> >> >

Re: Help: CJ idle/running problem
 

I'll take a look at the filter - that might have something to do with
something I noticed today.

I replaced all the spark plugs, removed and inspected each plug wire
at both ends (including the one going to and from the distributor
itself.)

I cleaned the contact point in the distributor cap and sanded off some
minor corrosion on the rotor.

I bought a little neon light used for testing the distributor and
wires and will try that tonight when it's dark.

Here's the weird thing. After the plug changes and distributor
cleaning, it started fine and idled fine. As soon as I started
backing down the driveway it began idling bad and started to die. I
could barely get it back up the driveway. So ... it at least knows
how to run right ... it just doesn't want to be driven anywhere! :)


On Tue, 18 May 2004 18:04:18 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>With oil all over the place, I think I would check inside the
>distributor cap for oil.
>
>I then would drain the oil looking for metal flakes.
>
>For not idling, I would suspect the gas filter first. They are strange
>too, they have an up and down. The center outlet goes to the carb and
>the top outlet goes to the return line. If the filter gets plugged it
>can pump too much back to the tank if it isn't in right side up. It
>also can syphon gas back to the tank when it sits.
>
>Mike
>
>Rob wrote:
>>
>> That does sound like a nightmare.
>>
>> It's an '83 CJ-7 with the 258 I6. The owner replaced the stock carb
>> with a Holley carb:
>> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html
>>
>> I checked the plugs and none were oily, though all looked "well
>> seasoned". Roughly the look and feel of sandpaper - some light in
>> color, others more reddish brown.
>>
>> The motor was rebuilt in '97 about 14k miles ago.
>>
>> Thanks again,
>>
>> Rob
>>
>> On Mon, 17 May 2004 11:16:11 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >You really don't want the same answer for both....
>> >
>> >Too much oil will hit the crankshaft. The crankshaft then turns the oil
>> >to foam. The oil pump pumps foam to the bearings. The engine then
>> >starts slowing down while seizing up from lack of oil.
>> >
>> >Or hopefully you can just drain the sucker and put the right amount in
>> >and that will stop the oil all over the place.
>> >
>> >You 'really' need to tell us what 'kind' of engine and the year for us
>> >to point you to say a common carb fix for no idle, leaky valve cover
>> >issues with one engine, etc...
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >
>> >Rob wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Guess I really have two questions - first about the over filled oil /
>> >> blown seal. Second about how to diagnose the suddone failure to keep
>> >> an idle.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks again,
>> >>
>> >> Rob
>> >>
>> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 02:55:16 GMT, Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >
>> >> >I just returned from buying a CJ from about 280 miles away. While I
>> >> >was there I tested everything and all was a-ok. I checked the fluids
>> >> >and wanted to make sure everything was ok for the roadtrip home.
>> >> >
>> >> >Oil indicated a little low so we added a quart. Still showed low, but
>> >> >the guy then says that the dripstick broke off and when he replaced it
>> >> >he made his own markings - ok, so I can't go by the dipstick to tell
>> >> >if its full or not.
>> >> >
>> >> >Close to home it started idling really rough at slow speeds or with
>> >> >the clutch in. Soon it began to die completely with the clutch in.
>> >> >
>> >> >It's sat for a few hours, temps all back down and it still won't stay
>> >> >running. There;s oil all over the valve cover and some puddled around
>> >> >the intake manifold.
>> >> >
>> >> >I suspect there may have been too much oil. Question: If so, what
>> >> >damage may have been done and how can I tell? I understand that in
>> >> >some cars it may blow a seal. Knowing I'm going to look like an
>> >> >idiot, can someone wlak me through how to diagnose a blown seal?
>> >> >
>> >> >Thanks a buch - it's painful to just come home and be excited about
>> >> >the CJ and I can't even drive it!
>> >> >
>> >> >Rob
>> >> >

Re: Help: CJ idle/running problem
 

I'll take a look at the filter - that might have something to do with
something I noticed today.

I replaced all the spark plugs, removed and inspected each plug wire
at both ends (including the one going to and from the distributor
itself.)

I cleaned the contact point in the distributor cap and sanded off some
minor corrosion on the rotor.

I bought a little neon light used for testing the distributor and
wires and will try that tonight when it's dark.

Here's the weird thing. After the plug changes and distributor
cleaning, it started fine and idled fine. As soon as I started
backing down the driveway it began idling bad and started to die. I
could barely get it back up the driveway. So ... it at least knows
how to run right ... it just doesn't want to be driven anywhere! :)


On Tue, 18 May 2004 18:04:18 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>With oil all over the place, I think I would check inside the
>distributor cap for oil.
>
>I then would drain the oil looking for metal flakes.
>
>For not idling, I would suspect the gas filter first. They are strange
>too, they have an up and down. The center outlet goes to the carb and
>the top outlet goes to the return line. If the filter gets plugged it
>can pump too much back to the tank if it isn't in right side up. It
>also can syphon gas back to the tank when it sits.
>
>Mike
>
>Rob wrote:
>>
>> That does sound like a nightmare.
>>
>> It's an '83 CJ-7 with the 258 I6. The owner replaced the stock carb
>> with a Holley carb:
>> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html
>>
>> I checked the plugs and none were oily, though all looked "well
>> seasoned". Roughly the look and feel of sandpaper - some light in
>> color, others more reddish brown.
>>
>> The motor was rebuilt in '97 about 14k miles ago.
>>
>> Thanks again,
>>
>> Rob
>>
>> On Mon, 17 May 2004 11:16:11 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >You really don't want the same answer for both....
>> >
>> >Too much oil will hit the crankshaft. The crankshaft then turns the oil
>> >to foam. The oil pump pumps foam to the bearings. The engine then
>> >starts slowing down while seizing up from lack of oil.
>> >
>> >Or hopefully you can just drain the sucker and put the right amount in
>> >and that will stop the oil all over the place.
>> >
>> >You 'really' need to tell us what 'kind' of engine and the year for us
>> >to point you to say a common carb fix for no idle, leaky valve cover
>> >issues with one engine, etc...
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >
>> >Rob wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Guess I really have two questions - first about the over filled oil /
>> >> blown seal. Second about how to diagnose the suddone failure to keep
>> >> an idle.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks again,
>> >>
>> >> Rob
>> >>
>> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 02:55:16 GMT, Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >
>> >> >I just returned from buying a CJ from about 280 miles away. While I
>> >> >was there I tested everything and all was a-ok. I checked the fluids
>> >> >and wanted to make sure everything was ok for the roadtrip home.
>> >> >
>> >> >Oil indicated a little low so we added a quart. Still showed low, but
>> >> >the guy then says that the dripstick broke off and when he replaced it
>> >> >he made his own markings - ok, so I can't go by the dipstick to tell
>> >> >if its full or not.
>> >> >
>> >> >Close to home it started idling really rough at slow speeds or with
>> >> >the clutch in. Soon it began to die completely with the clutch in.
>> >> >
>> >> >It's sat for a few hours, temps all back down and it still won't stay
>> >> >running. There;s oil all over the valve cover and some puddled around
>> >> >the intake manifold.
>> >> >
>> >> >I suspect there may have been too much oil. Question: If so, what
>> >> >damage may have been done and how can I tell? I understand that in
>> >> >some cars it may blow a seal. Knowing I'm going to look like an
>> >> >idiot, can someone wlak me through how to diagnose a blown seal?
>> >> >
>> >> >Thanks a buch - it's painful to just come home and be excited about
>> >> >the CJ and I can't even drive it!
>> >> >
>> >> >Rob
>> >> >

Re: Help: CJ idle/running problem
 

I'll take a look at the filter - that might have something to do with
something I noticed today.

I replaced all the spark plugs, removed and inspected each plug wire
at both ends (including the one going to and from the distributor
itself.)

I cleaned the contact point in the distributor cap and sanded off some
minor corrosion on the rotor.

I bought a little neon light used for testing the distributor and
wires and will try that tonight when it's dark.

Here's the weird thing. After the plug changes and distributor
cleaning, it started fine and idled fine. As soon as I started
backing down the driveway it began idling bad and started to die. I
could barely get it back up the driveway. So ... it at least knows
how to run right ... it just doesn't want to be driven anywhere! :)


On Tue, 18 May 2004 18:04:18 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>With oil all over the place, I think I would check inside the
>distributor cap for oil.
>
>I then would drain the oil looking for metal flakes.
>
>For not idling, I would suspect the gas filter first. They are strange
>too, they have an up and down. The center outlet goes to the carb and
>the top outlet goes to the return line. If the filter gets plugged it
>can pump too much back to the tank if it isn't in right side up. It
>also can syphon gas back to the tank when it sits.
>
>Mike
>
>Rob wrote:
>>
>> That does sound like a nightmare.
>>
>> It's an '83 CJ-7 with the 258 I6. The owner replaced the stock carb
>> with a Holley carb:
>> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html
>>
>> I checked the plugs and none were oily, though all looked "well
>> seasoned". Roughly the look and feel of sandpaper - some light in
>> color, others more reddish brown.
>>
>> The motor was rebuilt in '97 about 14k miles ago.
>>
>> Thanks again,
>>
>> Rob
>>
>> On Mon, 17 May 2004 11:16:11 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >You really don't want the same answer for both....
>> >
>> >Too much oil will hit the crankshaft. The crankshaft then turns the oil
>> >to foam. The oil pump pumps foam to the bearings. The engine then
>> >starts slowing down while seizing up from lack of oil.
>> >
>> >Or hopefully you can just drain the sucker and put the right amount in
>> >and that will stop the oil all over the place.
>> >
>> >You 'really' need to tell us what 'kind' of engine and the year for us
>> >to point you to say a common carb fix for no idle, leaky valve cover
>> >issues with one engine, etc...
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >
>> >Rob wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Guess I really have two questions - first about the over filled oil /
>> >> blown seal. Second about how to diagnose the suddone failure to keep
>> >> an idle.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks again,
>> >>
>> >> Rob
>> >>
>> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 02:55:16 GMT, Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >
>> >> >I just returned from buying a CJ from about 280 miles away. While I
>> >> >was there I tested everything and all was a-ok. I checked the fluids
>> >> >and wanted to make sure everything was ok for the roadtrip home.
>> >> >
>> >> >Oil indicated a little low so we added a quart. Still showed low, but
>> >> >the guy then says that the dripstick broke off and when he replaced it
>> >> >he made his own markings - ok, so I can't go by the dipstick to tell
>> >> >if its full or not.
>> >> >
>> >> >Close to home it started idling really rough at slow speeds or with
>> >> >the clutch in. Soon it began to die completely with the clutch in.
>> >> >
>> >> >It's sat for a few hours, temps all back down and it still won't stay
>> >> >running. There;s oil all over the valve cover and some puddled around
>> >> >the intake manifold.
>> >> >
>> >> >I suspect there may have been too much oil. Question: If so, what
>> >> >damage may have been done and how can I tell? I understand that in
>> >> >some cars it may blow a seal. Knowing I'm going to look like an
>> >> >idiot, can someone wlak me through how to diagnose a blown seal?
>> >> >
>> >> >Thanks a buch - it's painful to just come home and be excited about
>> >> >the CJ and I can't even drive it!
>> >> >
>> >> >Rob
>> >> >

Re: Help: CJ idle/running problem
 

That also could be a sticky EGR valve. They can act like that if gummed
up. You could always pull the vacuum line off it to see.

Mike

Rob wrote:
>
> I'll take a look at the filter - that might have something to do with
> something I noticed today.
>
> I replaced all the spark plugs, removed and inspected each plug wire
> at both ends (including the one going to and from the distributor
> itself.)
>
> I cleaned the contact point in the distributor cap and sanded off some
> minor corrosion on the rotor.
>
> I bought a little neon light used for testing the distributor and
> wires and will try that tonight when it's dark.
>
> Here's the weird thing. After the plug changes and distributor
> cleaning, it started fine and idled fine. As soon as I started
> backing down the driveway it began idling bad and started to die. I
> could barely get it back up the driveway. So ... it at least knows
> how to run right ... it just doesn't want to be driven anywhere! :)
>
> On Tue, 18 May 2004 18:04:18 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >With oil all over the place, I think I would check inside the
> >distributor cap for oil.
> >
> >I then would drain the oil looking for metal flakes.
> >
> >For not idling, I would suspect the gas filter first. They are strange
> >too, they have an up and down. The center outlet goes to the carb and
> >the top outlet goes to the return line. If the filter gets plugged it
> >can pump too much back to the tank if it isn't in right side up. It
> >also can syphon gas back to the tank when it sits.
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >Rob wrote:
> >>
> >> That does sound like a nightmare.
> >>
> >> It's an '83 CJ-7 with the 258 I6. The owner replaced the stock carb
> >> with a Holley carb:
> >> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...SC/0-8007.html
> >>
> >> I checked the plugs and none were oily, though all looked "well
> >> seasoned". Roughly the look and feel of sandpaper - some light in
> >> color, others more reddish brown.
> >>
> >> The motor was rebuilt in '97 about 14k miles ago.
> >>
> >> Thanks again,
> >>
> >> Rob
> >>
> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 11:16:11 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> >You really don't want the same answer for both....
> >> >
> >> >Too much oil will hit the crankshaft. The crankshaft then turns the oil
> >> >to foam. The oil pump pumps foam to the bearings. The engine then
> >> >starts slowing down while seizing up from lack of oil.
> >> >
> >> >Or hopefully you can just drain the sucker and put the right amount in
> >> >and that will stop the oil all over the place.
> >> >
> >> >You 'really' need to tell us what 'kind' of engine and the year for us
> >> >to point you to say a common carb fix for no idle, leaky valve cover
> >> >issues with one engine, etc...
> >> >
> >> >Mike
> >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> >
> >> >Rob wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> Guess I really have two questions - first about the over filled oil /
> >> >> blown seal. Second about how to diagnose the suddone failure to keep
> >> >> an idle.
> >> >>
> >> >> Thanks again,
> >> >>
> >> >> Rob
> >> >>
> >> >> On Mon, 17 May 2004 02:55:16 GMT, Rob <rob.mullins@verizon.com> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> >
> >> >> >I just returned from buying a CJ from about 280 miles away. While I
> >> >> >was there I tested everything and all was a-ok. I checked the fluids
> >> >> >and wanted to make sure everything was ok for the roadtrip home.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Oil indicated a little low so we added a quart. Still showed low, but
> >> >> >the guy then says that the dripstick broke off and when he replaced it
> >> >> >he made his own markings - ok, so I can't go by the dipstick to tell
> >> >> >if its full or not.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Close to home it started idling really rough at slow speeds or with
> >> >> >the clutch in. Soon it began to die completely with the clutch in.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >It's sat for a few hours, temps all back down and it still won't stay
> >> >> >running. There;s oil all over the valve cover and some puddled around
> >> >> >the intake manifold.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >I suspect there may have been too much oil. Question: If so, what
> >> >> >damage may have been done and how can I tell? I understand that in
> >> >> >some cars it may blow a seal. Knowing I'm going to look like an
> >> >> >idiot, can someone wlak me through how to diagnose a blown seal?
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Thanks a buch - it's painful to just come home and be excited about
> >> >> >the CJ and I can't even drive it!
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Rob
> >> >> >