Been having problems with blown head gaskets.
Ive been using FelPro blue stripe head gaskets ..... the supposed kind
that dont require sealing nor re-torquing. Twice now I've blown into
the cooling jacket/passages. The second time I over-torqued and it
still blew. (all the srufaces are FLAT). These 'blue stripe' gaskets
seem 'awfully hard' ... am I 'missing something'?

Whats the best out there these days? I usually prefer to seal with
aircraft grade permatex and dont mind retorquing until the cows come
home. Im certainly NOT happy with these "blue stripe Fel-Pros". Whats
your favorite 'brand' these days.

Willing to trade first born for asbestos.

thanx
Rich H

 

Well Rich, I actuall PREFER FelPro gaskets. BUT.......
you have to be absolutely sure that the surfaces are straight and flat.......
BOTH surfaces.......
Over torqueing is actually worse than under torqueing the bolts........
overtorqueing will cause the cylinders to not be round anymore and cause all
sorts of other flex problems.
FelPro gaskets are actually thinner than other gaskets.....even the stock
over the shelf gaskets from the dealer and or other brands....(not too
knowledgeable here, just know they are a bit thinner)
Sooooo.......
make sure you are FLAT
make sure you are FLAT......
make sure youi are MACHINE SHOP FLAT....
DON'T Over torque the bolts.....
Follow the Torque pattern exclusively of the head bolts
they have to be torqued in a certain order......THIS IS important
try adding some lock tite (high temp) to your head bolts, and adjust the
torque for oiled threads..(ANYONE????)
Make sure you are using NEW head bolts
Try a generic gasket.....which is thicker......
It DOES sound as if you have a issue with Flatness or straightness around
where ever you are blowing, assuming it is in the same area............
overtorqueing could be an issue.....
Is your torque wrench reliable???????
Robb


Rich Hampel wrote:
>Been having problems with blown head gaskets.
>Ive been using FelPro blue stripe head gaskets ..... the supposed kind
>that dont require sealing nor re-torquing. Twice now I've blown into
>the cooling jacket/passages. The second time I over-torqued and it
>still blew. (all the srufaces are FLAT). These 'blue stripe' gaskets
>seem 'awfully hard' ... am I 'missing something'?
>
>Whats the best out there these days? I usually prefer to seal with
>aircraft grade permatex and dont mind retorquing until the cows come
>home. Im certainly NOT happy with these "blue stripe Fel-Pros". Whats
>your favorite 'brand' these days.
>
>Willing to trade first born for asbestos.
>
>thanx
>Rich H


--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200508/1

 

Well Rich, I actuall PREFER FelPro gaskets. BUT.......
you have to be absolutely sure that the surfaces are straight and flat.......
BOTH surfaces.......
Over torqueing is actually worse than under torqueing the bolts........
overtorqueing will cause the cylinders to not be round anymore and cause all
sorts of other flex problems.
FelPro gaskets are actually thinner than other gaskets.....even the stock
over the shelf gaskets from the dealer and or other brands....(not too
knowledgeable here, just know they are a bit thinner)
Sooooo.......
make sure you are FLAT
make sure you are FLAT......
make sure youi are MACHINE SHOP FLAT....
DON'T Over torque the bolts.....
Follow the Torque pattern exclusively of the head bolts
they have to be torqued in a certain order......THIS IS important
try adding some lock tite (high temp) to your head bolts, and adjust the
torque for oiled threads..(ANYONE????)
Make sure you are using NEW head bolts
Try a generic gasket.....which is thicker......
It DOES sound as if you have a issue with Flatness or straightness around
where ever you are blowing, assuming it is in the same area............
overtorqueing could be an issue.....
Is your torque wrench reliable???????
Robb


Rich Hampel wrote:
>Been having problems with blown head gaskets.
>Ive been using FelPro blue stripe head gaskets ..... the supposed kind
>that dont require sealing nor re-torquing. Twice now I've blown into
>the cooling jacket/passages. The second time I over-torqued and it
>still blew. (all the srufaces are FLAT). These 'blue stripe' gaskets
>seem 'awfully hard' ... am I 'missing something'?
>
>Whats the best out there these days? I usually prefer to seal with
>aircraft grade permatex and dont mind retorquing until the cows come
>home. Im certainly NOT happy with these "blue stripe Fel-Pros". Whats
>your favorite 'brand' these days.
>
>Willing to trade first born for asbestos.
>
>thanx
>Rich H


--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200508/1

 

Well Rich, I actuall PREFER FelPro gaskets. BUT.......
you have to be absolutely sure that the surfaces are straight and flat.......
BOTH surfaces.......
Over torqueing is actually worse than under torqueing the bolts........
overtorqueing will cause the cylinders to not be round anymore and cause all
sorts of other flex problems.
FelPro gaskets are actually thinner than other gaskets.....even the stock
over the shelf gaskets from the dealer and or other brands....(not too
knowledgeable here, just know they are a bit thinner)
Sooooo.......
make sure you are FLAT
make sure you are FLAT......
make sure youi are MACHINE SHOP FLAT....
DON'T Over torque the bolts.....
Follow the Torque pattern exclusively of the head bolts
they have to be torqued in a certain order......THIS IS important
try adding some lock tite (high temp) to your head bolts, and adjust the
torque for oiled threads..(ANYONE????)
Make sure you are using NEW head bolts
Try a generic gasket.....which is thicker......
It DOES sound as if you have a issue with Flatness or straightness around
where ever you are blowing, assuming it is in the same area............
overtorqueing could be an issue.....
Is your torque wrench reliable???????
Robb


Rich Hampel wrote:
>Been having problems with blown head gaskets.
>Ive been using FelPro blue stripe head gaskets ..... the supposed kind
>that dont require sealing nor re-torquing. Twice now I've blown into
>the cooling jacket/passages. The second time I over-torqued and it
>still blew. (all the srufaces are FLAT). These 'blue stripe' gaskets
>seem 'awfully hard' ... am I 'missing something'?
>
>Whats the best out there these days? I usually prefer to seal with
>aircraft grade permatex and dont mind retorquing until the cows come
>home. Im certainly NOT happy with these "blue stripe Fel-Pros". Whats
>your favorite 'brand' these days.
>
>Willing to trade first born for asbestos.
>
>thanx
>Rich H


--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200508/1

 

Well Rich, I actuall PREFER FelPro gaskets. BUT.......
you have to be absolutely sure that the surfaces are straight and flat.......
BOTH surfaces.......
Over torqueing is actually worse than under torqueing the bolts........
overtorqueing will cause the cylinders to not be round anymore and cause all
sorts of other flex problems.
FelPro gaskets are actually thinner than other gaskets.....even the stock
over the shelf gaskets from the dealer and or other brands....(not too
knowledgeable here, just know they are a bit thinner)
Sooooo.......
make sure you are FLAT
make sure you are FLAT......
make sure youi are MACHINE SHOP FLAT....
DON'T Over torque the bolts.....
Follow the Torque pattern exclusively of the head bolts
they have to be torqued in a certain order......THIS IS important
try adding some lock tite (high temp) to your head bolts, and adjust the
torque for oiled threads..(ANYONE????)
Make sure you are using NEW head bolts
Try a generic gasket.....which is thicker......
It DOES sound as if you have a issue with Flatness or straightness around
where ever you are blowing, assuming it is in the same area............
overtorqueing could be an issue.....
Is your torque wrench reliable???????
Robb


Rich Hampel wrote:
>Been having problems with blown head gaskets.
>Ive been using FelPro blue stripe head gaskets ..... the supposed kind
>that dont require sealing nor re-torquing. Twice now I've blown into
>the cooling jacket/passages. The second time I over-torqued and it
>still blew. (all the srufaces are FLAT). These 'blue stripe' gaskets
>seem 'awfully hard' ... am I 'missing something'?
>
>Whats the best out there these days? I usually prefer to seal with
>aircraft grade permatex and dont mind retorquing until the cows come
>home. Im certainly NOT happy with these "blue stripe Fel-Pros". Whats
>your favorite 'brand' these days.
>
>Willing to trade first born for asbestos.
>
>thanx
>Rich H


--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200508/1

 

To add a little to this, make sure that the threads on the bolts and in the
block are clean too. It doesn't take much crud to really throw the torque
readings off. Also, do NOT put any sealer on these gaskets. I may have
misinterpreted your post, but sealer on these gaskets is a no-no. If the
head was milled, make sure the surface wasn't machined too smooth. This will
cause problems as well. The finish should be about 100 RMS, which any
competent engine shop should be capable of checking.. Be careful using oil
on the bolts when you tighten them, this may cause you to over torque if you
don't adjust the readings to allow for oil on the threads. clean the
surfaces and make sure there is no gasket material left on them when you put
the new gasket on. then clean the surfaces with lacquer thinner, or some
other solvent that doesn't leave a film. Don't use gasoline. The non
chlorinated brake cleaner works good for this, but make sure you don't get
it on anything that has paint on it, because it will ruin the paint. One
other thing you may want to check is to make sure the head sits against the
surface of the block without the gasket in place. On rare occasions the
locating pins will not let the head slide on completely and could cause this
problem. Last, do not over torque the bolts, this can damage the sealing
ring in the gasket. As far as the Fel-Pro gaskets are concerned, I have used
them for years without any troubles, so I would suspect the issues are
somewhere else.

Chris

"Robb S via CarKB.com" <forum@CarKB.com> wrote in message
news:5251786A60ECC@CarKB.com...
> Well Rich, I actuall PREFER FelPro gaskets. BUT.......
> you have to be absolutely sure that the surfaces are straight and
flat.......
> BOTH surfaces.......
> Over torqueing is actually worse than under torqueing the bolts........
> overtorqueing will cause the cylinders to not be round anymore and cause
all
> sorts of other flex problems.
> FelPro gaskets are actually thinner than other gaskets.....even the stock
> over the shelf gaskets from the dealer and or other brands....(not too
> knowledgeable here, just know they are a bit thinner)
> Sooooo.......
> make sure you are FLAT
> make sure you are FLAT......
> make sure youi are MACHINE SHOP FLAT....
> DON'T Over torque the bolts.....
> Follow the Torque pattern exclusively of the head bolts
> they have to be torqued in a certain order......THIS IS important
> try adding some lock tite (high temp) to your head bolts, and adjust the
> torque for oiled threads..(ANYONE????)
> Make sure you are using NEW head bolts
> Try a generic gasket.....which is thicker......
> It DOES sound as if you have a issue with Flatness or straightness around
> where ever you are blowing, assuming it is in the same area............
> overtorqueing could be an issue.....
> Is your torque wrench reliable???????
> Robb
>
>
> Rich Hampel wrote:
> >Been having problems with blown head gaskets.
> >Ive been using FelPro blue stripe head gaskets ..... the supposed kind
> >that dont require sealing nor re-torquing. Twice now I've blown into
> >the cooling jacket/passages. The second time I over-torqued and it
> >still blew. (all the srufaces are FLAT). These 'blue stripe' gaskets
> >seem 'awfully hard' ... am I 'missing something'?
> >
> >Whats the best out there these days? I usually prefer to seal with
> >aircraft grade permatex and dont mind retorquing until the cows come
> >home. Im certainly NOT happy with these "blue stripe Fel-Pros". Whats
> >your favorite 'brand' these days.
> >
> >Willing to trade first born for asbestos.
> >
> >thanx
> >Rich H
>
>
> --
> Message posted via CarKB.com
> http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200508/1

 

To add a little to this, make sure that the threads on the bolts and in the
block are clean too. It doesn't take much crud to really throw the torque
readings off. Also, do NOT put any sealer on these gaskets. I may have
misinterpreted your post, but sealer on these gaskets is a no-no. If the
head was milled, make sure the surface wasn't machined too smooth. This will
cause problems as well. The finish should be about 100 RMS, which any
competent engine shop should be capable of checking.. Be careful using oil
on the bolts when you tighten them, this may cause you to over torque if you
don't adjust the readings to allow for oil on the threads. clean the
surfaces and make sure there is no gasket material left on them when you put
the new gasket on. then clean the surfaces with lacquer thinner, or some
other solvent that doesn't leave a film. Don't use gasoline. The non
chlorinated brake cleaner works good for this, but make sure you don't get
it on anything that has paint on it, because it will ruin the paint. One
other thing you may want to check is to make sure the head sits against the
surface of the block without the gasket in place. On rare occasions the
locating pins will not let the head slide on completely and could cause this
problem. Last, do not over torque the bolts, this can damage the sealing
ring in the gasket. As far as the Fel-Pro gaskets are concerned, I have used
them for years without any troubles, so I would suspect the issues are
somewhere else.

Chris

"Robb S via CarKB.com" <forum@CarKB.com> wrote in message
news:5251786A60ECC@CarKB.com...
> Well Rich, I actuall PREFER FelPro gaskets. BUT.......
> you have to be absolutely sure that the surfaces are straight and
flat.......
> BOTH surfaces.......
> Over torqueing is actually worse than under torqueing the bolts........
> overtorqueing will cause the cylinders to not be round anymore and cause
all
> sorts of other flex problems.
> FelPro gaskets are actually thinner than other gaskets.....even the stock
> over the shelf gaskets from the dealer and or other brands....(not too
> knowledgeable here, just know they are a bit thinner)
> Sooooo.......
> make sure you are FLAT
> make sure you are FLAT......
> make sure youi are MACHINE SHOP FLAT....
> DON'T Over torque the bolts.....
> Follow the Torque pattern exclusively of the head bolts
> they have to be torqued in a certain order......THIS IS important
> try adding some lock tite (high temp) to your head bolts, and adjust the
> torque for oiled threads..(ANYONE????)
> Make sure you are using NEW head bolts
> Try a generic gasket.....which is thicker......
> It DOES sound as if you have a issue with Flatness or straightness around
> where ever you are blowing, assuming it is in the same area............
> overtorqueing could be an issue.....
> Is your torque wrench reliable???????
> Robb
>
>
> Rich Hampel wrote:
> >Been having problems with blown head gaskets.
> >Ive been using FelPro blue stripe head gaskets ..... the supposed kind
> >that dont require sealing nor re-torquing. Twice now I've blown into
> >the cooling jacket/passages. The second time I over-torqued and it
> >still blew. (all the srufaces are FLAT). These 'blue stripe' gaskets
> >seem 'awfully hard' ... am I 'missing something'?
> >
> >Whats the best out there these days? I usually prefer to seal with
> >aircraft grade permatex and dont mind retorquing until the cows come
> >home. Im certainly NOT happy with these "blue stripe Fel-Pros". Whats
> >your favorite 'brand' these days.
> >
> >Willing to trade first born for asbestos.
> >
> >thanx
> >Rich H
>
>
> --
> Message posted via CarKB.com
> http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200508/1

 

To add a little to this, make sure that the threads on the bolts and in the
block are clean too. It doesn't take much crud to really throw the torque
readings off. Also, do NOT put any sealer on these gaskets. I may have
misinterpreted your post, but sealer on these gaskets is a no-no. If the
head was milled, make sure the surface wasn't machined too smooth. This will
cause problems as well. The finish should be about 100 RMS, which any
competent engine shop should be capable of checking.. Be careful using oil
on the bolts when you tighten them, this may cause you to over torque if you
don't adjust the readings to allow for oil on the threads. clean the
surfaces and make sure there is no gasket material left on them when you put
the new gasket on. then clean the surfaces with lacquer thinner, or some
other solvent that doesn't leave a film. Don't use gasoline. The non
chlorinated brake cleaner works good for this, but make sure you don't get
it on anything that has paint on it, because it will ruin the paint. One
other thing you may want to check is to make sure the head sits against the
surface of the block without the gasket in place. On rare occasions the
locating pins will not let the head slide on completely and could cause this
problem. Last, do not over torque the bolts, this can damage the sealing
ring in the gasket. As far as the Fel-Pro gaskets are concerned, I have used
them for years without any troubles, so I would suspect the issues are
somewhere else.

Chris

"Robb S via CarKB.com" <forum@CarKB.com> wrote in message
news:5251786A60ECC@CarKB.com...
> Well Rich, I actuall PREFER FelPro gaskets. BUT.......
> you have to be absolutely sure that the surfaces are straight and
flat.......
> BOTH surfaces.......
> Over torqueing is actually worse than under torqueing the bolts........
> overtorqueing will cause the cylinders to not be round anymore and cause
all
> sorts of other flex problems.
> FelPro gaskets are actually thinner than other gaskets.....even the stock
> over the shelf gaskets from the dealer and or other brands....(not too
> knowledgeable here, just know they are a bit thinner)
> Sooooo.......
> make sure you are FLAT
> make sure you are FLAT......
> make sure youi are MACHINE SHOP FLAT....
> DON'T Over torque the bolts.....
> Follow the Torque pattern exclusively of the head bolts
> they have to be torqued in a certain order......THIS IS important
> try adding some lock tite (high temp) to your head bolts, and adjust the
> torque for oiled threads..(ANYONE????)
> Make sure you are using NEW head bolts
> Try a generic gasket.....which is thicker......
> It DOES sound as if you have a issue with Flatness or straightness around
> where ever you are blowing, assuming it is in the same area............
> overtorqueing could be an issue.....
> Is your torque wrench reliable???????
> Robb
>
>
> Rich Hampel wrote:
> >Been having problems with blown head gaskets.
> >Ive been using FelPro blue stripe head gaskets ..... the supposed kind
> >that dont require sealing nor re-torquing. Twice now I've blown into
> >the cooling jacket/passages. The second time I over-torqued and it
> >still blew. (all the srufaces are FLAT). These 'blue stripe' gaskets
> >seem 'awfully hard' ... am I 'missing something'?
> >
> >Whats the best out there these days? I usually prefer to seal with
> >aircraft grade permatex and dont mind retorquing until the cows come
> >home. Im certainly NOT happy with these "blue stripe Fel-Pros". Whats
> >your favorite 'brand' these days.
> >
> >Willing to trade first born for asbestos.
> >
> >thanx
> >Rich H
>
>
> --
> Message posted via CarKB.com
> http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200508/1

 

To add a little to this, make sure that the threads on the bolts and in the
block are clean too. It doesn't take much crud to really throw the torque
readings off. Also, do NOT put any sealer on these gaskets. I may have
misinterpreted your post, but sealer on these gaskets is a no-no. If the
head was milled, make sure the surface wasn't machined too smooth. This will
cause problems as well. The finish should be about 100 RMS, which any
competent engine shop should be capable of checking.. Be careful using oil
on the bolts when you tighten them, this may cause you to over torque if you
don't adjust the readings to allow for oil on the threads. clean the
surfaces and make sure there is no gasket material left on them when you put
the new gasket on. then clean the surfaces with lacquer thinner, or some
other solvent that doesn't leave a film. Don't use gasoline. The non
chlorinated brake cleaner works good for this, but make sure you don't get
it on anything that has paint on it, because it will ruin the paint. One
other thing you may want to check is to make sure the head sits against the
surface of the block without the gasket in place. On rare occasions the
locating pins will not let the head slide on completely and could cause this
problem. Last, do not over torque the bolts, this can damage the sealing
ring in the gasket. As far as the Fel-Pro gaskets are concerned, I have used
them for years without any troubles, so I would suspect the issues are
somewhere else.

Chris

"Robb S via CarKB.com" <forum@CarKB.com> wrote in message
news:5251786A60ECC@CarKB.com...
> Well Rich, I actuall PREFER FelPro gaskets. BUT.......
> you have to be absolutely sure that the surfaces are straight and
flat.......
> BOTH surfaces.......
> Over torqueing is actually worse than under torqueing the bolts........
> overtorqueing will cause the cylinders to not be round anymore and cause
all
> sorts of other flex problems.
> FelPro gaskets are actually thinner than other gaskets.....even the stock
> over the shelf gaskets from the dealer and or other brands....(not too
> knowledgeable here, just know they are a bit thinner)
> Sooooo.......
> make sure you are FLAT
> make sure you are FLAT......
> make sure youi are MACHINE SHOP FLAT....
> DON'T Over torque the bolts.....
> Follow the Torque pattern exclusively of the head bolts
> they have to be torqued in a certain order......THIS IS important
> try adding some lock tite (high temp) to your head bolts, and adjust the
> torque for oiled threads..(ANYONE????)
> Make sure you are using NEW head bolts
> Try a generic gasket.....which is thicker......
> It DOES sound as if you have a issue with Flatness or straightness around
> where ever you are blowing, assuming it is in the same area............
> overtorqueing could be an issue.....
> Is your torque wrench reliable???????
> Robb
>
>
> Rich Hampel wrote:
> >Been having problems with blown head gaskets.
> >Ive been using FelPro blue stripe head gaskets ..... the supposed kind
> >that dont require sealing nor re-torquing. Twice now I've blown into
> >the cooling jacket/passages. The second time I over-torqued and it
> >still blew. (all the srufaces are FLAT). These 'blue stripe' gaskets
> >seem 'awfully hard' ... am I 'missing something'?
> >
> >Whats the best out there these days? I usually prefer to seal with
> >aircraft grade permatex and dont mind retorquing until the cows come
> >home. Im certainly NOT happy with these "blue stripe Fel-Pros". Whats
> >your favorite 'brand' these days.
> >
> >Willing to trade first born for asbestos.
> >
> >thanx
> >Rich H
>
>
> --
> Message posted via CarKB.com
> http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200508/1

 

In article <norIe.598$mb4.306@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>, <c@me.org> wrote:

> On rare occasions the
> locating pins will not let the head slide on completely and could cause this
> problem.

THATS probably it...... near the area of the blow out. (now why
didnt I think of that earlier). Thanx
I always use NEW bolts, and properly oil them and run a bottom tap in
the bolting bores, I also measure the bolt length to ensure that they
are not 'bottoming' out, etc.


You guys are 'great'.- Many thanks, much appreciated.