Head Gaskets .... What brand are you guys using?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Head Gaskets .... What brand are you guys using?
In article <norIe.598$mb4.306@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>, <c@me.org> wrote:
> On rare occasions the
> locating pins will not let the head slide on completely and could cause this
> problem.
THATS probably it...... near the area of the blow out. (now why
didnt I think of that earlier). Thanx
I always use NEW bolts, and properly oil them and run a bottom tap in
the bolting bores, I also measure the bolt length to ensure that they
are not 'bottoming' out, etc.
You guys are 'great'.- Many thanks, much appreciated.
> On rare occasions the
> locating pins will not let the head slide on completely and could cause this
> problem.
THATS probably it...... near the area of the blow out. (now why
didnt I think of that earlier). Thanx
I always use NEW bolts, and properly oil them and run a bottom tap in
the bolting bores, I also measure the bolt length to ensure that they
are not 'bottoming' out, etc.
You guys are 'great'.- Many thanks, much appreciated.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Head Gaskets .... What brand are you guys using?
In article <norIe.598$mb4.306@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>, <c@me.org> wrote:
> On rare occasions the
> locating pins will not let the head slide on completely and could cause this
> problem.
THATS probably it...... near the area of the blow out. (now why
didnt I think of that earlier). Thanx
I always use NEW bolts, and properly oil them and run a bottom tap in
the bolting bores, I also measure the bolt length to ensure that they
are not 'bottoming' out, etc.
You guys are 'great'.- Many thanks, much appreciated.
> On rare occasions the
> locating pins will not let the head slide on completely and could cause this
> problem.
THATS probably it...... near the area of the blow out. (now why
didnt I think of that earlier). Thanx
I always use NEW bolts, and properly oil them and run a bottom tap in
the bolting bores, I also measure the bolt length to ensure that they
are not 'bottoming' out, etc.
You guys are 'great'.- Many thanks, much appreciated.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Head Gaskets .... What brand are you guys using?
In article <norIe.598$mb4.306@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>, <c@me.org> wrote:
> On rare occasions the
> locating pins will not let the head slide on completely and could cause this
> problem.
THATS probably it...... near the area of the blow out. (now why
didnt I think of that earlier). Thanx
I always use NEW bolts, and properly oil them and run a bottom tap in
the bolting bores, I also measure the bolt length to ensure that they
are not 'bottoming' out, etc.
You guys are 'great'.- Many thanks, much appreciated.
> On rare occasions the
> locating pins will not let the head slide on completely and could cause this
> problem.
THATS probably it...... near the area of the blow out. (now why
didnt I think of that earlier). Thanx
I always use NEW bolts, and properly oil them and run a bottom tap in
the bolting bores, I also measure the bolt length to ensure that they
are not 'bottoming' out, etc.
You guys are 'great'.- Many thanks, much appreciated.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Head Gaskets .... What brand are you guys using?
Rich,
Without having an engine manual here, I don't know if you are supposed to
oil the bolts or not. It varies from engine to engine, so make sure you're
doing the proper procedure. Oiling the bolts when they aren't supposed to be
oiled will cause a serious overtorque, and also, not oiling the bolts if
they are supposed to be oiled will cause the bolts to be undertorqued. There
is a chart and a short explanation about the differences in torque specs
dry, with oil, and with assembly lube here:
http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/tech/images/fasttorq.pdf
Chris
> I always use NEW bolts, and properly oil them and run a bottom tap in
> the bolting bores, I also measure the bolt length to ensure that they
> are not 'bottoming' out, etc.
>
>
> You guys are 'great'.- Many thanks, much appreciated.
Without having an engine manual here, I don't know if you are supposed to
oil the bolts or not. It varies from engine to engine, so make sure you're
doing the proper procedure. Oiling the bolts when they aren't supposed to be
oiled will cause a serious overtorque, and also, not oiling the bolts if
they are supposed to be oiled will cause the bolts to be undertorqued. There
is a chart and a short explanation about the differences in torque specs
dry, with oil, and with assembly lube here:
http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/tech/images/fasttorq.pdf
Chris
> I always use NEW bolts, and properly oil them and run a bottom tap in
> the bolting bores, I also measure the bolt length to ensure that they
> are not 'bottoming' out, etc.
>
>
> You guys are 'great'.- Many thanks, much appreciated.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Head Gaskets .... What brand are you guys using?
Rich,
Without having an engine manual here, I don't know if you are supposed to
oil the bolts or not. It varies from engine to engine, so make sure you're
doing the proper procedure. Oiling the bolts when they aren't supposed to be
oiled will cause a serious overtorque, and also, not oiling the bolts if
they are supposed to be oiled will cause the bolts to be undertorqued. There
is a chart and a short explanation about the differences in torque specs
dry, with oil, and with assembly lube here:
http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/tech/images/fasttorq.pdf
Chris
> I always use NEW bolts, and properly oil them and run a bottom tap in
> the bolting bores, I also measure the bolt length to ensure that they
> are not 'bottoming' out, etc.
>
>
> You guys are 'great'.- Many thanks, much appreciated.
Without having an engine manual here, I don't know if you are supposed to
oil the bolts or not. It varies from engine to engine, so make sure you're
doing the proper procedure. Oiling the bolts when they aren't supposed to be
oiled will cause a serious overtorque, and also, not oiling the bolts if
they are supposed to be oiled will cause the bolts to be undertorqued. There
is a chart and a short explanation about the differences in torque specs
dry, with oil, and with assembly lube here:
http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/tech/images/fasttorq.pdf
Chris
> I always use NEW bolts, and properly oil them and run a bottom tap in
> the bolting bores, I also measure the bolt length to ensure that they
> are not 'bottoming' out, etc.
>
>
> You guys are 'great'.- Many thanks, much appreciated.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Head Gaskets .... What brand are you guys using?
Rich,
Without having an engine manual here, I don't know if you are supposed to
oil the bolts or not. It varies from engine to engine, so make sure you're
doing the proper procedure. Oiling the bolts when they aren't supposed to be
oiled will cause a serious overtorque, and also, not oiling the bolts if
they are supposed to be oiled will cause the bolts to be undertorqued. There
is a chart and a short explanation about the differences in torque specs
dry, with oil, and with assembly lube here:
http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/tech/images/fasttorq.pdf
Chris
> I always use NEW bolts, and properly oil them and run a bottom tap in
> the bolting bores, I also measure the bolt length to ensure that they
> are not 'bottoming' out, etc.
>
>
> You guys are 'great'.- Many thanks, much appreciated.
Without having an engine manual here, I don't know if you are supposed to
oil the bolts or not. It varies from engine to engine, so make sure you're
doing the proper procedure. Oiling the bolts when they aren't supposed to be
oiled will cause a serious overtorque, and also, not oiling the bolts if
they are supposed to be oiled will cause the bolts to be undertorqued. There
is a chart and a short explanation about the differences in torque specs
dry, with oil, and with assembly lube here:
http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/tech/images/fasttorq.pdf
Chris
> I always use NEW bolts, and properly oil them and run a bottom tap in
> the bolting bores, I also measure the bolt length to ensure that they
> are not 'bottoming' out, etc.
>
>
> You guys are 'great'.- Many thanks, much appreciated.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Head Gaskets .... What brand are you guys using?
Rich,
Without having an engine manual here, I don't know if you are supposed to
oil the bolts or not. It varies from engine to engine, so make sure you're
doing the proper procedure. Oiling the bolts when they aren't supposed to be
oiled will cause a serious overtorque, and also, not oiling the bolts if
they are supposed to be oiled will cause the bolts to be undertorqued. There
is a chart and a short explanation about the differences in torque specs
dry, with oil, and with assembly lube here:
http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/tech/images/fasttorq.pdf
Chris
> I always use NEW bolts, and properly oil them and run a bottom tap in
> the bolting bores, I also measure the bolt length to ensure that they
> are not 'bottoming' out, etc.
>
>
> You guys are 'great'.- Many thanks, much appreciated.
Without having an engine manual here, I don't know if you are supposed to
oil the bolts or not. It varies from engine to engine, so make sure you're
doing the proper procedure. Oiling the bolts when they aren't supposed to be
oiled will cause a serious overtorque, and also, not oiling the bolts if
they are supposed to be oiled will cause the bolts to be undertorqued. There
is a chart and a short explanation about the differences in torque specs
dry, with oil, and with assembly lube here:
http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/tech/images/fasttorq.pdf
Chris
> I always use NEW bolts, and properly oil them and run a bottom tap in
> the bolting bores, I also measure the bolt length to ensure that they
> are not 'bottoming' out, etc.
>
>
> You guys are 'great'.- Many thanks, much appreciated.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Head Gaskets .... What brand are you guys using?
Hey Chris,
Yes, I was referring to loctite, but only for the bolt threads......never for
a gasket.....
But......I would think that if you use locktite, becase the threads are
wetted and not dry, an adjustment on the torque should be made for the wet
threads.......Not sure if this should be oil, sealant adjustment??? Wasn't
looking at a manual when I wrote the post......
Thanks for picking up all the other stuff I missed......GREAT input.....
c wrote:
>To add a little to this, make sure that the threads on the bolts and in the
>block are clean too. It doesn't take much crud to really throw the torque
>readings off. Also, do NOT put any sealer on these gaskets. I may have
>misinterpreted your post, but sealer on these gaskets is a no-no. If the
>head was milled, make sure the surface wasn't machined too smooth. This will
>cause problems as well. The finish should be about 100 RMS, which any
>competent engine shop should be capable of checking.. Be careful using oil
>on the bolts when you tighten them, this may cause you to over torque if you
>don't adjust the readings to allow for oil on the threads. clean the
>surfaces and make sure there is no gasket material left on them when you put
>the new gasket on. then clean the surfaces with lacquer thinner, or some
>other solvent that doesn't leave a film. Don't use gasoline. The non
>chlorinated brake cleaner works good for this, but make sure you don't get
>it on anything that has paint on it, because it will ruin the paint. One
>other thing you may want to check is to make sure the head sits against the
>surface of the block without the gasket in place. On rare occasions the
>locating pins will not let the head slide on completely and could cause this
>problem. Last, do not over torque the bolts, this can damage the sealing
>ring in the gasket. As far as the Fel-Pro gaskets are concerned, I have used
>them for years without any troubles, so I would suspect the issues are
>somewhere else.
>
>Chris
>
>> Well Rich, I actuall PREFER FelPro gaskets. BUT.......
>> you have to be absolutely sure that the surfaces are straight and flat.......
>[quoted text clipped - 38 lines]
>> >thanx
>> >Rich H
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200508/1
Yes, I was referring to loctite, but only for the bolt threads......never for
a gasket.....
But......I would think that if you use locktite, becase the threads are
wetted and not dry, an adjustment on the torque should be made for the wet
threads.......Not sure if this should be oil, sealant adjustment??? Wasn't
looking at a manual when I wrote the post......
Thanks for picking up all the other stuff I missed......GREAT input.....
c wrote:
>To add a little to this, make sure that the threads on the bolts and in the
>block are clean too. It doesn't take much crud to really throw the torque
>readings off. Also, do NOT put any sealer on these gaskets. I may have
>misinterpreted your post, but sealer on these gaskets is a no-no. If the
>head was milled, make sure the surface wasn't machined too smooth. This will
>cause problems as well. The finish should be about 100 RMS, which any
>competent engine shop should be capable of checking.. Be careful using oil
>on the bolts when you tighten them, this may cause you to over torque if you
>don't adjust the readings to allow for oil on the threads. clean the
>surfaces and make sure there is no gasket material left on them when you put
>the new gasket on. then clean the surfaces with lacquer thinner, or some
>other solvent that doesn't leave a film. Don't use gasoline. The non
>chlorinated brake cleaner works good for this, but make sure you don't get
>it on anything that has paint on it, because it will ruin the paint. One
>other thing you may want to check is to make sure the head sits against the
>surface of the block without the gasket in place. On rare occasions the
>locating pins will not let the head slide on completely and could cause this
>problem. Last, do not over torque the bolts, this can damage the sealing
>ring in the gasket. As far as the Fel-Pro gaskets are concerned, I have used
>them for years without any troubles, so I would suspect the issues are
>somewhere else.
>
>Chris
>
>> Well Rich, I actuall PREFER FelPro gaskets. BUT.......
>> you have to be absolutely sure that the surfaces are straight and flat.......
>[quoted text clipped - 38 lines]
>> >thanx
>> >Rich H
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200508/1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Head Gaskets .... What brand are you guys using?
Hey Chris,
Yes, I was referring to loctite, but only for the bolt threads......never for
a gasket.....
But......I would think that if you use locktite, becase the threads are
wetted and not dry, an adjustment on the torque should be made for the wet
threads.......Not sure if this should be oil, sealant adjustment??? Wasn't
looking at a manual when I wrote the post......
Thanks for picking up all the other stuff I missed......GREAT input.....
c wrote:
>To add a little to this, make sure that the threads on the bolts and in the
>block are clean too. It doesn't take much crud to really throw the torque
>readings off. Also, do NOT put any sealer on these gaskets. I may have
>misinterpreted your post, but sealer on these gaskets is a no-no. If the
>head was milled, make sure the surface wasn't machined too smooth. This will
>cause problems as well. The finish should be about 100 RMS, which any
>competent engine shop should be capable of checking.. Be careful using oil
>on the bolts when you tighten them, this may cause you to over torque if you
>don't adjust the readings to allow for oil on the threads. clean the
>surfaces and make sure there is no gasket material left on them when you put
>the new gasket on. then clean the surfaces with lacquer thinner, or some
>other solvent that doesn't leave a film. Don't use gasoline. The non
>chlorinated brake cleaner works good for this, but make sure you don't get
>it on anything that has paint on it, because it will ruin the paint. One
>other thing you may want to check is to make sure the head sits against the
>surface of the block without the gasket in place. On rare occasions the
>locating pins will not let the head slide on completely and could cause this
>problem. Last, do not over torque the bolts, this can damage the sealing
>ring in the gasket. As far as the Fel-Pro gaskets are concerned, I have used
>them for years without any troubles, so I would suspect the issues are
>somewhere else.
>
>Chris
>
>> Well Rich, I actuall PREFER FelPro gaskets. BUT.......
>> you have to be absolutely sure that the surfaces are straight and flat.......
>[quoted text clipped - 38 lines]
>> >thanx
>> >Rich H
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200508/1
Yes, I was referring to loctite, but only for the bolt threads......never for
a gasket.....
But......I would think that if you use locktite, becase the threads are
wetted and not dry, an adjustment on the torque should be made for the wet
threads.......Not sure if this should be oil, sealant adjustment??? Wasn't
looking at a manual when I wrote the post......
Thanks for picking up all the other stuff I missed......GREAT input.....
c wrote:
>To add a little to this, make sure that the threads on the bolts and in the
>block are clean too. It doesn't take much crud to really throw the torque
>readings off. Also, do NOT put any sealer on these gaskets. I may have
>misinterpreted your post, but sealer on these gaskets is a no-no. If the
>head was milled, make sure the surface wasn't machined too smooth. This will
>cause problems as well. The finish should be about 100 RMS, which any
>competent engine shop should be capable of checking.. Be careful using oil
>on the bolts when you tighten them, this may cause you to over torque if you
>don't adjust the readings to allow for oil on the threads. clean the
>surfaces and make sure there is no gasket material left on them when you put
>the new gasket on. then clean the surfaces with lacquer thinner, or some
>other solvent that doesn't leave a film. Don't use gasoline. The non
>chlorinated brake cleaner works good for this, but make sure you don't get
>it on anything that has paint on it, because it will ruin the paint. One
>other thing you may want to check is to make sure the head sits against the
>surface of the block without the gasket in place. On rare occasions the
>locating pins will not let the head slide on completely and could cause this
>problem. Last, do not over torque the bolts, this can damage the sealing
>ring in the gasket. As far as the Fel-Pro gaskets are concerned, I have used
>them for years without any troubles, so I would suspect the issues are
>somewhere else.
>
>Chris
>
>> Well Rich, I actuall PREFER FelPro gaskets. BUT.......
>> you have to be absolutely sure that the surfaces are straight and flat.......
>[quoted text clipped - 38 lines]
>> >thanx
>> >Rich H
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200508/1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Head Gaskets .... What brand are you guys using?
Hey Chris,
Yes, I was referring to loctite, but only for the bolt threads......never for
a gasket.....
But......I would think that if you use locktite, becase the threads are
wetted and not dry, an adjustment on the torque should be made for the wet
threads.......Not sure if this should be oil, sealant adjustment??? Wasn't
looking at a manual when I wrote the post......
Thanks for picking up all the other stuff I missed......GREAT input.....
c wrote:
>To add a little to this, make sure that the threads on the bolts and in the
>block are clean too. It doesn't take much crud to really throw the torque
>readings off. Also, do NOT put any sealer on these gaskets. I may have
>misinterpreted your post, but sealer on these gaskets is a no-no. If the
>head was milled, make sure the surface wasn't machined too smooth. This will
>cause problems as well. The finish should be about 100 RMS, which any
>competent engine shop should be capable of checking.. Be careful using oil
>on the bolts when you tighten them, this may cause you to over torque if you
>don't adjust the readings to allow for oil on the threads. clean the
>surfaces and make sure there is no gasket material left on them when you put
>the new gasket on. then clean the surfaces with lacquer thinner, or some
>other solvent that doesn't leave a film. Don't use gasoline. The non
>chlorinated brake cleaner works good for this, but make sure you don't get
>it on anything that has paint on it, because it will ruin the paint. One
>other thing you may want to check is to make sure the head sits against the
>surface of the block without the gasket in place. On rare occasions the
>locating pins will not let the head slide on completely and could cause this
>problem. Last, do not over torque the bolts, this can damage the sealing
>ring in the gasket. As far as the Fel-Pro gaskets are concerned, I have used
>them for years without any troubles, so I would suspect the issues are
>somewhere else.
>
>Chris
>
>> Well Rich, I actuall PREFER FelPro gaskets. BUT.......
>> you have to be absolutely sure that the surfaces are straight and flat.......
>[quoted text clipped - 38 lines]
>> >thanx
>> >Rich H
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200508/1
Yes, I was referring to loctite, but only for the bolt threads......never for
a gasket.....
But......I would think that if you use locktite, becase the threads are
wetted and not dry, an adjustment on the torque should be made for the wet
threads.......Not sure if this should be oil, sealant adjustment??? Wasn't
looking at a manual when I wrote the post......
Thanks for picking up all the other stuff I missed......GREAT input.....
c wrote:
>To add a little to this, make sure that the threads on the bolts and in the
>block are clean too. It doesn't take much crud to really throw the torque
>readings off. Also, do NOT put any sealer on these gaskets. I may have
>misinterpreted your post, but sealer on these gaskets is a no-no. If the
>head was milled, make sure the surface wasn't machined too smooth. This will
>cause problems as well. The finish should be about 100 RMS, which any
>competent engine shop should be capable of checking.. Be careful using oil
>on the bolts when you tighten them, this may cause you to over torque if you
>don't adjust the readings to allow for oil on the threads. clean the
>surfaces and make sure there is no gasket material left on them when you put
>the new gasket on. then clean the surfaces with lacquer thinner, or some
>other solvent that doesn't leave a film. Don't use gasoline. The non
>chlorinated brake cleaner works good for this, but make sure you don't get
>it on anything that has paint on it, because it will ruin the paint. One
>other thing you may want to check is to make sure the head sits against the
>surface of the block without the gasket in place. On rare occasions the
>locating pins will not let the head slide on completely and could cause this
>problem. Last, do not over torque the bolts, this can damage the sealing
>ring in the gasket. As far as the Fel-Pro gaskets are concerned, I have used
>them for years without any troubles, so I would suspect the issues are
>somewhere else.
>
>Chris
>
>> Well Rich, I actuall PREFER FelPro gaskets. BUT.......
>> you have to be absolutely sure that the surfaces are straight and flat.......
>[quoted text clipped - 38 lines]
>> >thanx
>> >Rich H
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200508/1