Re: Frame swap restore for my 86 CJ7
Ya I've looked at those frame plate, but that involves a little more
welding, as for cutting it wont be bad, some notches here and there, and yes mine goes from 4 1/2" to 3 1/2". I'm replacing both rear cross members and frame is stripped of everything, so it wont be too bad. As for cutting I have a 14" cutoff, but most will be angle grinder with cutoff disks, Can Tire had the 15 packs for $9.99 a while ago, so I have 30 of them, figure I will box the whole thing for about $120.00 plus my time. "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:47167956$0$28506$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com... >I had something along these lines in mind: > http://www.mountainoffroad.com/more.htm > > Click on frame plates on the catalog first page. > > Mike > > Mike Romain wrote: >> LOL! >> >> I too just got off the phone with metalsupermarket here in Ontario! >> >> I was thinking 3/16 plate and just doing the rear outside, picking up the >> shackle hangers with weld up as far as the front rear hanger, well, 6" at >> least past there, then doing the inside rear as far as the gas tank cross >> member. I am going to stuff the tails with 2 1/4" square tubing with >> some strips of plate welded onto it on the outside half to fit snug after >> I galvanize the inside of the frame. The inside C half is smaller than >> the outside C half frame. >> >> I wouldn't want to box mine on the outside due to rust belt factors.... >> >> What do you have for a cutter?? >> >> That is going to be an insane amount of cutting you want to do. >> >> My frame starts at 3 X 2 1/2" at the tail and slowly deepens up to 4 1/2 >> X 2 11/16 at the front of the rear spring hanger. >> >> Mike >> >> Greg wrote: >>> Hey Mike, I just got off the phone with a place called metal super >>> market, http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for me, >>> but I see there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5' peices >>> of 1/8" walled 4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4" interior >>> size, same as frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and slide >>> under frame from just in front of rear mid spring hanger to back tail, >>> it will take a bit of notching to go up and over wheel humps, but once >>> welded in it will deffinately add the strength I need. Cost is $93.70 >>> plus tax, I'll pick it up Friday. >>> >>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message >>> news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com... >>>> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush, I >>>> noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was figuring >>>> out how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was repairing repairs >>>> and there 'really' wasn't anything left there to weld to when an email >>>> came in from a Website's thread monitor I posted to a while back >>>> looking for a steering shaft. >>>> >>>> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one >>>> some other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post >>>> showed this really pretty looking CJ7 frame..... >>>> >>>> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and >>>> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL! >>>> >>>> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad for >>>> an extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the last one >>>> on the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it up for me >>>> with his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice clean frame >>>> home. I was told it is from a 78. >>>> >>>> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back in >>>> 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but >>>> figure it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake >>>> lines from the top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for >>>> the springs and sway bar already installed so I don't have to worry >>>> there. >>>> >>>> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame back >>>> in '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out and >>>> killed it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has been >>>> sandblasted, primered and painted. >>>> >>>> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on >>>> things like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom spare >>>> and rack mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on them so >>>> I figure I am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with the >>>> galvanizing. The tails already have a hole cut in the crossmember so I >>>> can get inside from the back end with a tube on the spray can. >>>> >>>> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box >>>> both of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just >>>> guessing about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through the >>>> side holes to hold it in place. This will give some good structure for >>>> the rear shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer hitch to hold >>>> onto. >>>> >>>> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in >>>> an empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on my >>>> rad so it's new. >>>> >>>> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor bolted >>>> to a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing up to a >>>> tank for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my nice new >>>> one off my front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I put together >>>> a 'ghetto' air tank system with ugly used parts no one will bother >>>> stealing that... >>>> >>>> This is going to be fun... >>>> >>>> Mike >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >>> >>> |
Re: Frame swap restore for my 86 CJ7
Ya I've looked at those frame plate, but that involves a little more
welding, as for cutting it wont be bad, some notches here and there, and yes mine goes from 4 1/2" to 3 1/2". I'm replacing both rear cross members and frame is stripped of everything, so it wont be too bad. As for cutting I have a 14" cutoff, but most will be angle grinder with cutoff disks, Can Tire had the 15 packs for $9.99 a while ago, so I have 30 of them, figure I will box the whole thing for about $120.00 plus my time. "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:47167956$0$28506$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com... >I had something along these lines in mind: > http://www.mountainoffroad.com/more.htm > > Click on frame plates on the catalog first page. > > Mike > > Mike Romain wrote: >> LOL! >> >> I too just got off the phone with metalsupermarket here in Ontario! >> >> I was thinking 3/16 plate and just doing the rear outside, picking up the >> shackle hangers with weld up as far as the front rear hanger, well, 6" at >> least past there, then doing the inside rear as far as the gas tank cross >> member. I am going to stuff the tails with 2 1/4" square tubing with >> some strips of plate welded onto it on the outside half to fit snug after >> I galvanize the inside of the frame. The inside C half is smaller than >> the outside C half frame. >> >> I wouldn't want to box mine on the outside due to rust belt factors.... >> >> What do you have for a cutter?? >> >> That is going to be an insane amount of cutting you want to do. >> >> My frame starts at 3 X 2 1/2" at the tail and slowly deepens up to 4 1/2 >> X 2 11/16 at the front of the rear spring hanger. >> >> Mike >> >> Greg wrote: >>> Hey Mike, I just got off the phone with a place called metal super >>> market, http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for me, >>> but I see there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5' peices >>> of 1/8" walled 4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4" interior >>> size, same as frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and slide >>> under frame from just in front of rear mid spring hanger to back tail, >>> it will take a bit of notching to go up and over wheel humps, but once >>> welded in it will deffinately add the strength I need. Cost is $93.70 >>> plus tax, I'll pick it up Friday. >>> >>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message >>> news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com... >>>> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush, I >>>> noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was figuring >>>> out how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was repairing repairs >>>> and there 'really' wasn't anything left there to weld to when an email >>>> came in from a Website's thread monitor I posted to a while back >>>> looking for a steering shaft. >>>> >>>> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one >>>> some other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post >>>> showed this really pretty looking CJ7 frame..... >>>> >>>> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and >>>> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL! >>>> >>>> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad for >>>> an extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the last one >>>> on the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it up for me >>>> with his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice clean frame >>>> home. I was told it is from a 78. >>>> >>>> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back in >>>> 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but >>>> figure it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake >>>> lines from the top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for >>>> the springs and sway bar already installed so I don't have to worry >>>> there. >>>> >>>> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame back >>>> in '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out and >>>> killed it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has been >>>> sandblasted, primered and painted. >>>> >>>> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on >>>> things like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom spare >>>> and rack mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on them so >>>> I figure I am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with the >>>> galvanizing. The tails already have a hole cut in the crossmember so I >>>> can get inside from the back end with a tube on the spray can. >>>> >>>> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box >>>> both of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just >>>> guessing about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through the >>>> side holes to hold it in place. This will give some good structure for >>>> the rear shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer hitch to hold >>>> onto. >>>> >>>> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in >>>> an empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on my >>>> rad so it's new. >>>> >>>> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor bolted >>>> to a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing up to a >>>> tank for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my nice new >>>> one off my front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I put together >>>> a 'ghetto' air tank system with ugly used parts no one will bother >>>> stealing that... >>>> >>>> This is going to be fun... >>>> >>>> Mike >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) >>> >>> |
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