The frame would have to be thicker for my stick welding ability.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I have a fair bit of experience with a small wire feed mig welder and no
> way would I go for the cracks in my frame.
>
> Those are nasty cracks, they are in the main frame rail too, not the
> added inside box.
>
> Even the professional welders that did my repairs wouldn't warranty
> them....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> ks wrote:
> >
> > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read some
> > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill" the
> > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> >
> > Pics
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > side, about even with front shock mount)
> >
> > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > frame)?

 

The frame would have to be thicker for my stick welding ability.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I have a fair bit of experience with a small wire feed mig welder and no
> way would I go for the cracks in my frame.
>
> Those are nasty cracks, they are in the main frame rail too, not the
> added inside box.
>
> Even the professional welders that did my repairs wouldn't warranty
> them....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> ks wrote:
> >
> > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read some
> > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill" the
> > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> >
> > Pics
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > side, about even with front shock mount)
> >
> > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > frame)?

 

The frame would have to be thicker for my stick welding ability.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I have a fair bit of experience with a small wire feed mig welder and no
> way would I go for the cracks in my frame.
>
> Those are nasty cracks, they are in the main frame rail too, not the
> added inside box.
>
> Even the professional welders that did my repairs wouldn't warranty
> them....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> ks wrote:
> >
> > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read some
> > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill" the
> > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> >
> > Pics
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > side, about even with front shock mount)
> >
> > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > frame)?

 

I was hoping for a more optomistic response ;-)

The second crack is on the inside box right? Thats looking from the engine
back towards the tire. See the brake line heading through the frame out
towards the tire. Unless I'm misunderstanding you.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:409A86F3.4EFB83B9@sympatico.ca...
> I have a fair bit of experience with a small wire feed mig welder and no
> way would I go for the cracks in my frame.
>
> Those are nasty cracks, they are in the main frame rail too, not the
> added inside box.
>
> Even the professional welders that did my repairs wouldn't warranty
> them....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> ks wrote:
> >
> > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
some
> > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill"
the
> > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> >
> > Pics
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > side, about even with front shock mount)
> >
> > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > frame)?

 

I was hoping for a more optomistic response ;-)

The second crack is on the inside box right? Thats looking from the engine
back towards the tire. See the brake line heading through the frame out
towards the tire. Unless I'm misunderstanding you.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:409A86F3.4EFB83B9@sympatico.ca...
> I have a fair bit of experience with a small wire feed mig welder and no
> way would I go for the cracks in my frame.
>
> Those are nasty cracks, they are in the main frame rail too, not the
> added inside box.
>
> Even the professional welders that did my repairs wouldn't warranty
> them....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> ks wrote:
> >
> > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
some
> > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill"
the
> > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> >
> > Pics
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > side, about even with front shock mount)
> >
> > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > frame)?

 

I was hoping for a more optomistic response ;-)

The second crack is on the inside box right? Thats looking from the engine
back towards the tire. See the brake line heading through the frame out
towards the tire. Unless I'm misunderstanding you.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:409A86F3.4EFB83B9@sympatico.ca...
> I have a fair bit of experience with a small wire feed mig welder and no
> way would I go for the cracks in my frame.
>
> Those are nasty cracks, they are in the main frame rail too, not the
> added inside box.
>
> Even the professional welders that did my repairs wouldn't warranty
> them....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> ks wrote:
> >
> > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
some
> > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill"
the
> > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> >
> > Pics
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > side, about even with front shock mount)
> >
> > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > frame)?

 

I was hoping for a more optomistic response ;-)

The second crack is on the inside box right? Thats looking from the engine
back towards the tire. See the brake line heading through the frame out
towards the tire. Unless I'm misunderstanding you.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:409A86F3.4EFB83B9@sympatico.ca...
> I have a fair bit of experience with a small wire feed mig welder and no
> way would I go for the cracks in my frame.
>
> Those are nasty cracks, they are in the main frame rail too, not the
> added inside box.
>
> Even the professional welders that did my repairs wouldn't warranty
> them....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> ks wrote:
> >
> > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
some
> > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill"
the
> > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> >
> > Pics
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > side, about even with front shock mount)
> >
> > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > frame)?

 

First drill a hole, not too big maybe 3/16", in the end of the crack. This
will stop it from propagating anymore. Then bevel the crack a bit with a
grinder. Then burn the entire thing back together, your mig will work if it
is cranked. Don't grind the weld. You might want to add fish plates and
gussets, to make it 110%.
It will be fine.

--James

"ks" <co_big_cheese@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:M7umc.156$4p5.18082@news.uswest.net...
> While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
some
> previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill" the
> cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
>
> Pics
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> side, about even with front shock mount)
>
> I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> frame)?
>
>
>

 

First drill a hole, not too big maybe 3/16", in the end of the crack. This
will stop it from propagating anymore. Then bevel the crack a bit with a
grinder. Then burn the entire thing back together, your mig will work if it
is cranked. Don't grind the weld. You might want to add fish plates and
gussets, to make it 110%.
It will be fine.

--James

"ks" <co_big_cheese@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:M7umc.156$4p5.18082@news.uswest.net...
> While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
some
> previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill" the
> cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
>
> Pics
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> side, about even with front shock mount)
>
> I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> frame)?
>
>
>

 

First drill a hole, not too big maybe 3/16", in the end of the crack. This
will stop it from propagating anymore. Then bevel the crack a bit with a
grinder. Then burn the entire thing back together, your mig will work if it
is cranked. Don't grind the weld. You might want to add fish plates and
gussets, to make it 110%.
It will be fine.

--James

"ks" <co_big_cheese@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:M7umc.156$4p5.18082@news.uswest.net...
> While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
some
> previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill" the
> cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
>
> Pics
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> side, about even with front shock mount)
>
> I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> frame)?
>
>
>