RocknTJ

First drill a hole, not too big maybe 3/16", in the end of the crack. This
will stop it from propagating anymore. Then bevel the crack a bit with a
grinder. Then burn the entire thing back together, your mig will work if it
is cranked. Don't grind the weld. You might want to add fish plates and
gussets, to make it 110%.
It will be fine.

--James

"ks" <co_big_cheese@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:M7umc.156$4p5.18082@news.uswest.net...
> While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
some
> previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill" the
> cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
>
> Pics
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> side, about even with front shock mount)
>
> I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> frame)?
>
>
>

ks

I read in an older post:

"In addition make sure the mend plate is not welded on the vertical ends.
Since your frame is a stress member the vertical welds will only set up pre
stress points for the frame to crack in. Have
the plate welded top and bottom but not on the ends. Also, as John said
drill the ends of the crack to stop propagation."

Any thoughts on his "no vertical weld" theory?

Trailering this thing to a shop would prove very difficult for me. I
*could* bribe one of our mechanics at work to come out and do the actual
weld for me maybe.

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:409A84EF.F631DCFC@***.net...
> The patch is called a gusset, and I weld that six inch plate
> lengthwise over the crack not connecting the horizontal and vertical
> welds.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> ks wrote:
> >
> > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
some
> > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill"
the
> > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> >
> > Pics
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > side, about even with front shock mount)
> >
> > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > frame)?

ks

I read in an older post:

"In addition make sure the mend plate is not welded on the vertical ends.
Since your frame is a stress member the vertical welds will only set up pre
stress points for the frame to crack in. Have
the plate welded top and bottom but not on the ends. Also, as John said
drill the ends of the crack to stop propagation."

Any thoughts on his "no vertical weld" theory?

Trailering this thing to a shop would prove very difficult for me. I
*could* bribe one of our mechanics at work to come out and do the actual
weld for me maybe.

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:409A84EF.F631DCFC@***.net...
> The patch is called a gusset, and I weld that six inch plate
> lengthwise over the crack not connecting the horizontal and vertical
> welds.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> ks wrote:
> >
> > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
some
> > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill"
the
> > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> >
> > Pics
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > side, about even with front shock mount)
> >
> > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > frame)?

ks

I read in an older post:

"In addition make sure the mend plate is not welded on the vertical ends.
Since your frame is a stress member the vertical welds will only set up pre
stress points for the frame to crack in. Have
the plate welded top and bottom but not on the ends. Also, as John said
drill the ends of the crack to stop propagation."

Any thoughts on his "no vertical weld" theory?

Trailering this thing to a shop would prove very difficult for me. I
*could* bribe one of our mechanics at work to come out and do the actual
weld for me maybe.

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:409A84EF.F631DCFC@***.net...
> The patch is called a gusset, and I weld that six inch plate
> lengthwise over the crack not connecting the horizontal and vertical
> welds.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> ks wrote:
> >
> > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
some
> > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill"
the
> > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> >
> > Pics
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > side, about even with front shock mount)
> >
> > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > frame)?

ks

I read in an older post:

"In addition make sure the mend plate is not welded on the vertical ends.
Since your frame is a stress member the vertical welds will only set up pre
stress points for the frame to crack in. Have
the plate welded top and bottom but not on the ends. Also, as John said
drill the ends of the crack to stop propagation."

Any thoughts on his "no vertical weld" theory?

Trailering this thing to a shop would prove very difficult for me. I
*could* bribe one of our mechanics at work to come out and do the actual
weld for me maybe.

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:409A84EF.F631DCFC@***.net...
> The patch is called a gusset, and I weld that six inch plate
> lengthwise over the crack not connecting the horizontal and vertical
> welds.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> ks wrote:
> >
> > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
some
> > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill"
the
> > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> >
> > Pics
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > side, about even with front shock mount)
> >
> > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > frame)?

Mike Romain

Interesting, yes, you are correct, I didn't realize what I was looking
at.

That is a very 'odd' place to have a broken frame. Normally when those
frames crack, they go on the inside just by the rear passenger side
spring at it's front and on the drivers side rear of front spring.

Was there a winch up front or was it ever 'really' stuck and yanked on
hard from the front corner?

I am thinking I am seeing twisting impact damage like if there was a tow
hook on the bottom of the front frame corner that got used hard or a
lot.

Anyway, in my opinion some jobs are best left to professionals.... That
is one of them.

My rear crack was fixed back in 2000 and the last one up front a little
bit ago. The repairs have held nicely.

Mike


ks wrote:
>
> I was hoping for a more optomistic response ;-)
>
> The second crack is on the inside box right? Thats looking from the engine
> back towards the tire. See the brake line heading through the frame out
> towards the tire. Unless I'm misunderstanding you.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:409A86F3.4EFB83B9@sympatico.ca...
> > I have a fair bit of experience with a small wire feed mig welder and no
> > way would I go for the cracks in my frame.
> >
> > Those are nasty cracks, they are in the main frame rail too, not the
> > added inside box.
> >
> > Even the professional welders that did my repairs wouldn't warranty
> > them....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > ks wrote:
> > >
> > > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
> some
> > > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill"
> the
> > > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> > >
> > > Pics
> > > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > > side, about even with front shock mount)
> > >
> > > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > > frame)?

Mike Romain

Interesting, yes, you are correct, I didn't realize what I was looking
at.

That is a very 'odd' place to have a broken frame. Normally when those
frames crack, they go on the inside just by the rear passenger side
spring at it's front and on the drivers side rear of front spring.

Was there a winch up front or was it ever 'really' stuck and yanked on
hard from the front corner?

I am thinking I am seeing twisting impact damage like if there was a tow
hook on the bottom of the front frame corner that got used hard or a
lot.

Anyway, in my opinion some jobs are best left to professionals.... That
is one of them.

My rear crack was fixed back in 2000 and the last one up front a little
bit ago. The repairs have held nicely.

Mike


ks wrote:
>
> I was hoping for a more optomistic response ;-)
>
> The second crack is on the inside box right? Thats looking from the engine
> back towards the tire. See the brake line heading through the frame out
> towards the tire. Unless I'm misunderstanding you.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:409A86F3.4EFB83B9@sympatico.ca...
> > I have a fair bit of experience with a small wire feed mig welder and no
> > way would I go for the cracks in my frame.
> >
> > Those are nasty cracks, they are in the main frame rail too, not the
> > added inside box.
> >
> > Even the professional welders that did my repairs wouldn't warranty
> > them....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > ks wrote:
> > >
> > > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
> some
> > > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill"
> the
> > > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> > >
> > > Pics
> > > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > > side, about even with front shock mount)
> > >
> > > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > > frame)?

Mike Romain

Interesting, yes, you are correct, I didn't realize what I was looking
at.

That is a very 'odd' place to have a broken frame. Normally when those
frames crack, they go on the inside just by the rear passenger side
spring at it's front and on the drivers side rear of front spring.

Was there a winch up front or was it ever 'really' stuck and yanked on
hard from the front corner?

I am thinking I am seeing twisting impact damage like if there was a tow
hook on the bottom of the front frame corner that got used hard or a
lot.

Anyway, in my opinion some jobs are best left to professionals.... That
is one of them.

My rear crack was fixed back in 2000 and the last one up front a little
bit ago. The repairs have held nicely.

Mike


ks wrote:
>
> I was hoping for a more optomistic response ;-)
>
> The second crack is on the inside box right? Thats looking from the engine
> back towards the tire. See the brake line heading through the frame out
> towards the tire. Unless I'm misunderstanding you.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:409A86F3.4EFB83B9@sympatico.ca...
> > I have a fair bit of experience with a small wire feed mig welder and no
> > way would I go for the cracks in my frame.
> >
> > Those are nasty cracks, they are in the main frame rail too, not the
> > added inside box.
> >
> > Even the professional welders that did my repairs wouldn't warranty
> > them....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > ks wrote:
> > >
> > > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
> some
> > > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill"
> the
> > > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> > >
> > > Pics
> > > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > > side, about even with front shock mount)
> > >
> > > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > > frame)?

Mike Romain

Interesting, yes, you are correct, I didn't realize what I was looking
at.

That is a very 'odd' place to have a broken frame. Normally when those
frames crack, they go on the inside just by the rear passenger side
spring at it's front and on the drivers side rear of front spring.

Was there a winch up front or was it ever 'really' stuck and yanked on
hard from the front corner?

I am thinking I am seeing twisting impact damage like if there was a tow
hook on the bottom of the front frame corner that got used hard or a
lot.

Anyway, in my opinion some jobs are best left to professionals.... That
is one of them.

My rear crack was fixed back in 2000 and the last one up front a little
bit ago. The repairs have held nicely.

Mike


ks wrote:
>
> I was hoping for a more optomistic response ;-)
>
> The second crack is on the inside box right? Thats looking from the engine
> back towards the tire. See the brake line heading through the frame out
> towards the tire. Unless I'm misunderstanding you.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:409A86F3.4EFB83B9@sympatico.ca...
> > I have a fair bit of experience with a small wire feed mig welder and no
> > way would I go for the cracks in my frame.
> >
> > Those are nasty cracks, they are in the main frame rail too, not the
> > added inside box.
> >
> > Even the professional welders that did my repairs wouldn't warranty
> > them....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > ks wrote:
> > >
> > > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
> some
> > > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill"
> the
> > > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> > >
> > > Pics
> > > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > > side, about even with front shock mount)
> > >
> > > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > > frame)?

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

That's just what I do, trying to give the plate it's self strength.
Know that eventually it's going to crack, because the frame will no
longer be able to flex in that one spot. The new cracks will stop at the
end of each weld. I hear tales of the whole chunk falling out. I own a
1946 CJ-2A the frame has no cracks, but, I had a '68 that cracked at the
cross member.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

ks wrote:
>
> I read in an older post:
>
> "In addition make sure the mend plate is not welded on the vertical ends.
> Since your frame is a stress member the vertical welds will only set up pre
> stress points for the frame to crack in. Have
> the plate welded top and bottom but not on the ends. Also, as John said
> drill the ends of the crack to stop propagation."
>
> Any thoughts on his "no vertical weld" theory?
>
> Trailering this thing to a shop would prove very difficult for me. I
> *could* bribe one of our mechanics at work to come out and do the actual
> weld for me maybe.
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:409A84EF.F631DCFC@***.net...
> > The patch is called a gusset, and I weld that six inch plate
> > lengthwise over the crack not connecting the horizontal and vertical
> > welds.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > ks wrote:
> > >
> > > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
> some
> > > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill"
> the
> > > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> > >
> > > Pics
> > > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > > side, about even with front shock mount)
> > >
> > > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > > frame)?