Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
#201
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
Well a broken water pump (impeller not moving) would create a 'no flow'
situation.
Would you not agree?
Also other things could create a 'no flow' situation too, but usually a
broken water pump is more common. :-)
Using a "flow-chart" to determine what is wrong.
(OP reported that the 1. coolant level is full and the 2. water pump
pulley is turning)
3. Going down the chart of things to check you want to know if the coolant
is moving at all which can be determined by no heat in the cabin. (no flow)
4. Then if the coolant is flowing, is it moving too slow? Which can be
determined by different temperatures in different spots. (low flow).
Then you keep going down the "flow-chart" to test other components. At
least that is how I think this problem should be approached instead of
jumping up and installing a new radiator when it may not be the problem.
;-)
And that is true.......and we all agree....... it's not flowing properly!
lol
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:bridneumx40lcDHYnZ2dnUVZ_sOknZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Replace 'no flow' with 'low flow'. If you can't see coolant moving through
> the neck, it's not flowing properly. Bottom line. I had the same exact
> problem with a different car. New radiator, no problem.
>
> OP. Fix this all ready and get back to us.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:du4rh.23640$sR.13137@newssvr29.news.prodigy.n et...
>> Yeah but the OP is experiencing "overheating" ONLY at higher RPMs which
>> could be a restriction and YES AFAIK it could be a collasping lower hose
>> at the higher RPMs. Couldn't it be?
>> And who says it is not flowing. It could be that the flow is low and the
>> heated coolant does not make it to the neck where the OP sticks his
>> finger. 8^) Although the OP says that the coolant/water is warm there.
>> Remember that the engine is not overheating even after idling for over 45
>> minutes. So AFAIK it has to flow through the radiator.
>> That is why I asked if the corners of the radiator got hot and was told
>> those areas were not accessible. :-(
>> --
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>
>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>
>>> Not the lower hose. If it was the hose it would flow at idle. Try the
>>> thermostat first, but my money is on the radiator.
>>>
>>> Carl
>>>
>>>
>>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:d3Zqh.12483$x67.5388@newssvr17.news.prodigy.n et...
>>>> YEP good now that we know you have inside heat...............
>>>>
>>>> Kinda boils down to:
>>>> Defective Radiator
>>>> Defective Thermostat
>>>> Lower Radiator Hose needing a spring inside to prevent collapsing.
>>>>
>>>> To name a few or it could be all of them or even something else!
>>>> I vote for the thermostat...........buy it from the dealer!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:hradnX3TN7B60zHYnZ2dnUVZ_rqhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>> Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>>> radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to
>>>>> be replaced.
>>>>>
>>>>> Carl
>>
>>
>
>
situation.
Would you not agree?
Also other things could create a 'no flow' situation too, but usually a
broken water pump is more common. :-)
Using a "flow-chart" to determine what is wrong.
(OP reported that the 1. coolant level is full and the 2. water pump
pulley is turning)
3. Going down the chart of things to check you want to know if the coolant
is moving at all which can be determined by no heat in the cabin. (no flow)
4. Then if the coolant is flowing, is it moving too slow? Which can be
determined by different temperatures in different spots. (low flow).
Then you keep going down the "flow-chart" to test other components. At
least that is how I think this problem should be approached instead of
jumping up and installing a new radiator when it may not be the problem.
;-)
And that is true.......and we all agree....... it's not flowing properly!
lol
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:bridneumx40lcDHYnZ2dnUVZ_sOknZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Replace 'no flow' with 'low flow'. If you can't see coolant moving through
> the neck, it's not flowing properly. Bottom line. I had the same exact
> problem with a different car. New radiator, no problem.
>
> OP. Fix this all ready and get back to us.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:du4rh.23640$sR.13137@newssvr29.news.prodigy.n et...
>> Yeah but the OP is experiencing "overheating" ONLY at higher RPMs which
>> could be a restriction and YES AFAIK it could be a collasping lower hose
>> at the higher RPMs. Couldn't it be?
>> And who says it is not flowing. It could be that the flow is low and the
>> heated coolant does not make it to the neck where the OP sticks his
>> finger. 8^) Although the OP says that the coolant/water is warm there.
>> Remember that the engine is not overheating even after idling for over 45
>> minutes. So AFAIK it has to flow through the radiator.
>> That is why I asked if the corners of the radiator got hot and was told
>> those areas were not accessible. :-(
>> --
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>
>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>
>>> Not the lower hose. If it was the hose it would flow at idle. Try the
>>> thermostat first, but my money is on the radiator.
>>>
>>> Carl
>>>
>>>
>>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:d3Zqh.12483$x67.5388@newssvr17.news.prodigy.n et...
>>>> YEP good now that we know you have inside heat...............
>>>>
>>>> Kinda boils down to:
>>>> Defective Radiator
>>>> Defective Thermostat
>>>> Lower Radiator Hose needing a spring inside to prevent collapsing.
>>>>
>>>> To name a few or it could be all of them or even something else!
>>>> I vote for the thermostat...........buy it from the dealer!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:hradnX3TN7B60zHYnZ2dnUVZ_rqhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>> Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>>> radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to
>>>>> be replaced.
>>>>>
>>>>> Carl
>>
>>
>
>
#202
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
The water pump not spinning would likely not provide good heat in the jeep
at idle. The OP stated he has good heat.
Carl
"dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:fIfrh.34679$Gr2.10484@newssvr21.news.prodigy. net...
> Well a broken water pump (impeller not moving) would create a 'no flow'
> situation.
> Would you not agree?
> Also other things could create a 'no flow' situation too, but usually a
> broken water pump is more common. :-)
>
> Using a "flow-chart" to determine what is wrong.
> (OP reported that the 1. coolant level is full and the 2. water pump
> pulley is turning)
> 3. Going down the chart of things to check you want to know if the coolant
> is moving at all which can be determined by no heat in the cabin. (no
> flow)
> 4. Then if the coolant is flowing, is it moving too slow? Which can be
> determined by different temperatures in different spots. (low flow).
>
> Then you keep going down the "flow-chart" to test other components. At
> least that is how I think this problem should be approached instead of
> jumping up and installing a new radiator when it may not be the problem.
> ;-)
>
> And that is true.......and we all agree....... it's not flowing properly!
> lol
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> news:bridneumx40lcDHYnZ2dnUVZ_sOknZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> Replace 'no flow' with 'low flow'. If you can't see coolant moving
>> through the neck, it's not flowing properly. Bottom line. I had the same
>> exact problem with a different car. New radiator, no problem.
>>
>> OP. Fix this all ready and get back to us.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:du4rh.23640$sR.13137@newssvr29.news.prodigy.n et...
>>> Yeah but the OP is experiencing "overheating" ONLY at higher RPMs which
>>> could be a restriction and YES AFAIK it could be a collasping lower hose
>>> at the higher RPMs. Couldn't it be?
>>> And who says it is not flowing. It could be that the flow is low and
>>> the heated coolant does not make it to the neck where the OP sticks his
>>> finger. 8^) Although the OP says that the coolant/water is warm there.
>>> Remember that the engine is not overheating even after idling for over
>>> 45 minutes. So AFAIK it has to flow through the radiator.
>>> That is why I asked if the corners of the radiator got hot and was told
>>> those areas were not accessible. :-(
>>> --
>>> later,
>>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>>
>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>
>>>> Not the lower hose. If it was the hose it would flow at idle. Try the
>>>> thermostat first, but my money is on the radiator.
>>>>
>>>> Carl
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:d3Zqh.12483$x67.5388@newssvr17.news.prodigy.n et...
>>>>> YEP good now that we know you have inside heat...............
>>>>>
>>>>> Kinda boils down to:
>>>>> Defective Radiator
>>>>> Defective Thermostat
>>>>> Lower Radiator Hose needing a spring inside to prevent collapsing.
>>>>>
>>>>> To name a few or it could be all of them or even something else!
>>>>> I vote for the thermostat...........buy it from the dealer!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:hradnX3TN7B60zHYnZ2dnUVZ_rqhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>>> Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>>>> radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs
>>>>>> to be replaced.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Carl
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
at idle. The OP stated he has good heat.
Carl
"dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:fIfrh.34679$Gr2.10484@newssvr21.news.prodigy. net...
> Well a broken water pump (impeller not moving) would create a 'no flow'
> situation.
> Would you not agree?
> Also other things could create a 'no flow' situation too, but usually a
> broken water pump is more common. :-)
>
> Using a "flow-chart" to determine what is wrong.
> (OP reported that the 1. coolant level is full and the 2. water pump
> pulley is turning)
> 3. Going down the chart of things to check you want to know if the coolant
> is moving at all which can be determined by no heat in the cabin. (no
> flow)
> 4. Then if the coolant is flowing, is it moving too slow? Which can be
> determined by different temperatures in different spots. (low flow).
>
> Then you keep going down the "flow-chart" to test other components. At
> least that is how I think this problem should be approached instead of
> jumping up and installing a new radiator when it may not be the problem.
> ;-)
>
> And that is true.......and we all agree....... it's not flowing properly!
> lol
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> news:bridneumx40lcDHYnZ2dnUVZ_sOknZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> Replace 'no flow' with 'low flow'. If you can't see coolant moving
>> through the neck, it's not flowing properly. Bottom line. I had the same
>> exact problem with a different car. New radiator, no problem.
>>
>> OP. Fix this all ready and get back to us.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:du4rh.23640$sR.13137@newssvr29.news.prodigy.n et...
>>> Yeah but the OP is experiencing "overheating" ONLY at higher RPMs which
>>> could be a restriction and YES AFAIK it could be a collasping lower hose
>>> at the higher RPMs. Couldn't it be?
>>> And who says it is not flowing. It could be that the flow is low and
>>> the heated coolant does not make it to the neck where the OP sticks his
>>> finger. 8^) Although the OP says that the coolant/water is warm there.
>>> Remember that the engine is not overheating even after idling for over
>>> 45 minutes. So AFAIK it has to flow through the radiator.
>>> That is why I asked if the corners of the radiator got hot and was told
>>> those areas were not accessible. :-(
>>> --
>>> later,
>>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>>
>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>
>>>> Not the lower hose. If it was the hose it would flow at idle. Try the
>>>> thermostat first, but my money is on the radiator.
>>>>
>>>> Carl
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:d3Zqh.12483$x67.5388@newssvr17.news.prodigy.n et...
>>>>> YEP good now that we know you have inside heat...............
>>>>>
>>>>> Kinda boils down to:
>>>>> Defective Radiator
>>>>> Defective Thermostat
>>>>> Lower Radiator Hose needing a spring inside to prevent collapsing.
>>>>>
>>>>> To name a few or it could be all of them or even something else!
>>>>> I vote for the thermostat...........buy it from the dealer!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:hradnX3TN7B60zHYnZ2dnUVZ_rqhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>>> Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>>>> radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs
>>>>>> to be replaced.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Carl
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
#203
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
The water pump not spinning would likely not provide good heat in the jeep
at idle. The OP stated he has good heat.
Carl
"dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:fIfrh.34679$Gr2.10484@newssvr21.news.prodigy. net...
> Well a broken water pump (impeller not moving) would create a 'no flow'
> situation.
> Would you not agree?
> Also other things could create a 'no flow' situation too, but usually a
> broken water pump is more common. :-)
>
> Using a "flow-chart" to determine what is wrong.
> (OP reported that the 1. coolant level is full and the 2. water pump
> pulley is turning)
> 3. Going down the chart of things to check you want to know if the coolant
> is moving at all which can be determined by no heat in the cabin. (no
> flow)
> 4. Then if the coolant is flowing, is it moving too slow? Which can be
> determined by different temperatures in different spots. (low flow).
>
> Then you keep going down the "flow-chart" to test other components. At
> least that is how I think this problem should be approached instead of
> jumping up and installing a new radiator when it may not be the problem.
> ;-)
>
> And that is true.......and we all agree....... it's not flowing properly!
> lol
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> news:bridneumx40lcDHYnZ2dnUVZ_sOknZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> Replace 'no flow' with 'low flow'. If you can't see coolant moving
>> through the neck, it's not flowing properly. Bottom line. I had the same
>> exact problem with a different car. New radiator, no problem.
>>
>> OP. Fix this all ready and get back to us.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:du4rh.23640$sR.13137@newssvr29.news.prodigy.n et...
>>> Yeah but the OP is experiencing "overheating" ONLY at higher RPMs which
>>> could be a restriction and YES AFAIK it could be a collasping lower hose
>>> at the higher RPMs. Couldn't it be?
>>> And who says it is not flowing. It could be that the flow is low and
>>> the heated coolant does not make it to the neck where the OP sticks his
>>> finger. 8^) Although the OP says that the coolant/water is warm there.
>>> Remember that the engine is not overheating even after idling for over
>>> 45 minutes. So AFAIK it has to flow through the radiator.
>>> That is why I asked if the corners of the radiator got hot and was told
>>> those areas were not accessible. :-(
>>> --
>>> later,
>>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>>
>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>
>>>> Not the lower hose. If it was the hose it would flow at idle. Try the
>>>> thermostat first, but my money is on the radiator.
>>>>
>>>> Carl
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:d3Zqh.12483$x67.5388@newssvr17.news.prodigy.n et...
>>>>> YEP good now that we know you have inside heat...............
>>>>>
>>>>> Kinda boils down to:
>>>>> Defective Radiator
>>>>> Defective Thermostat
>>>>> Lower Radiator Hose needing a spring inside to prevent collapsing.
>>>>>
>>>>> To name a few or it could be all of them or even something else!
>>>>> I vote for the thermostat...........buy it from the dealer!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:hradnX3TN7B60zHYnZ2dnUVZ_rqhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>>> Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>>>> radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs
>>>>>> to be replaced.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Carl
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
at idle. The OP stated he has good heat.
Carl
"dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:fIfrh.34679$Gr2.10484@newssvr21.news.prodigy. net...
> Well a broken water pump (impeller not moving) would create a 'no flow'
> situation.
> Would you not agree?
> Also other things could create a 'no flow' situation too, but usually a
> broken water pump is more common. :-)
>
> Using a "flow-chart" to determine what is wrong.
> (OP reported that the 1. coolant level is full and the 2. water pump
> pulley is turning)
> 3. Going down the chart of things to check you want to know if the coolant
> is moving at all which can be determined by no heat in the cabin. (no
> flow)
> 4. Then if the coolant is flowing, is it moving too slow? Which can be
> determined by different temperatures in different spots. (low flow).
>
> Then you keep going down the "flow-chart" to test other components. At
> least that is how I think this problem should be approached instead of
> jumping up and installing a new radiator when it may not be the problem.
> ;-)
>
> And that is true.......and we all agree....... it's not flowing properly!
> lol
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> news:bridneumx40lcDHYnZ2dnUVZ_sOknZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> Replace 'no flow' with 'low flow'. If you can't see coolant moving
>> through the neck, it's not flowing properly. Bottom line. I had the same
>> exact problem with a different car. New radiator, no problem.
>>
>> OP. Fix this all ready and get back to us.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:du4rh.23640$sR.13137@newssvr29.news.prodigy.n et...
>>> Yeah but the OP is experiencing "overheating" ONLY at higher RPMs which
>>> could be a restriction and YES AFAIK it could be a collasping lower hose
>>> at the higher RPMs. Couldn't it be?
>>> And who says it is not flowing. It could be that the flow is low and
>>> the heated coolant does not make it to the neck where the OP sticks his
>>> finger. 8^) Although the OP says that the coolant/water is warm there.
>>> Remember that the engine is not overheating even after idling for over
>>> 45 minutes. So AFAIK it has to flow through the radiator.
>>> That is why I asked if the corners of the radiator got hot and was told
>>> those areas were not accessible. :-(
>>> --
>>> later,
>>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>>
>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>
>>>> Not the lower hose. If it was the hose it would flow at idle. Try the
>>>> thermostat first, but my money is on the radiator.
>>>>
>>>> Carl
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:d3Zqh.12483$x67.5388@newssvr17.news.prodigy.n et...
>>>>> YEP good now that we know you have inside heat...............
>>>>>
>>>>> Kinda boils down to:
>>>>> Defective Radiator
>>>>> Defective Thermostat
>>>>> Lower Radiator Hose needing a spring inside to prevent collapsing.
>>>>>
>>>>> To name a few or it could be all of them or even something else!
>>>>> I vote for the thermostat...........buy it from the dealer!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:hradnX3TN7B60zHYnZ2dnUVZ_rqhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>>> Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>>>> radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs
>>>>>> to be replaced.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Carl
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
#204
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
The water pump not spinning would likely not provide good heat in the jeep
at idle. The OP stated he has good heat.
Carl
"dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:fIfrh.34679$Gr2.10484@newssvr21.news.prodigy. net...
> Well a broken water pump (impeller not moving) would create a 'no flow'
> situation.
> Would you not agree?
> Also other things could create a 'no flow' situation too, but usually a
> broken water pump is more common. :-)
>
> Using a "flow-chart" to determine what is wrong.
> (OP reported that the 1. coolant level is full and the 2. water pump
> pulley is turning)
> 3. Going down the chart of things to check you want to know if the coolant
> is moving at all which can be determined by no heat in the cabin. (no
> flow)
> 4. Then if the coolant is flowing, is it moving too slow? Which can be
> determined by different temperatures in different spots. (low flow).
>
> Then you keep going down the "flow-chart" to test other components. At
> least that is how I think this problem should be approached instead of
> jumping up and installing a new radiator when it may not be the problem.
> ;-)
>
> And that is true.......and we all agree....... it's not flowing properly!
> lol
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> news:bridneumx40lcDHYnZ2dnUVZ_sOknZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> Replace 'no flow' with 'low flow'. If you can't see coolant moving
>> through the neck, it's not flowing properly. Bottom line. I had the same
>> exact problem with a different car. New radiator, no problem.
>>
>> OP. Fix this all ready and get back to us.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:du4rh.23640$sR.13137@newssvr29.news.prodigy.n et...
>>> Yeah but the OP is experiencing "overheating" ONLY at higher RPMs which
>>> could be a restriction and YES AFAIK it could be a collasping lower hose
>>> at the higher RPMs. Couldn't it be?
>>> And who says it is not flowing. It could be that the flow is low and
>>> the heated coolant does not make it to the neck where the OP sticks his
>>> finger. 8^) Although the OP says that the coolant/water is warm there.
>>> Remember that the engine is not overheating even after idling for over
>>> 45 minutes. So AFAIK it has to flow through the radiator.
>>> That is why I asked if the corners of the radiator got hot and was told
>>> those areas were not accessible. :-(
>>> --
>>> later,
>>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>>
>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>
>>>> Not the lower hose. If it was the hose it would flow at idle. Try the
>>>> thermostat first, but my money is on the radiator.
>>>>
>>>> Carl
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:d3Zqh.12483$x67.5388@newssvr17.news.prodigy.n et...
>>>>> YEP good now that we know you have inside heat...............
>>>>>
>>>>> Kinda boils down to:
>>>>> Defective Radiator
>>>>> Defective Thermostat
>>>>> Lower Radiator Hose needing a spring inside to prevent collapsing.
>>>>>
>>>>> To name a few or it could be all of them or even something else!
>>>>> I vote for the thermostat...........buy it from the dealer!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:hradnX3TN7B60zHYnZ2dnUVZ_rqhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>>> Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>>>> radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs
>>>>>> to be replaced.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Carl
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
at idle. The OP stated he has good heat.
Carl
"dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:fIfrh.34679$Gr2.10484@newssvr21.news.prodigy. net...
> Well a broken water pump (impeller not moving) would create a 'no flow'
> situation.
> Would you not agree?
> Also other things could create a 'no flow' situation too, but usually a
> broken water pump is more common. :-)
>
> Using a "flow-chart" to determine what is wrong.
> (OP reported that the 1. coolant level is full and the 2. water pump
> pulley is turning)
> 3. Going down the chart of things to check you want to know if the coolant
> is moving at all which can be determined by no heat in the cabin. (no
> flow)
> 4. Then if the coolant is flowing, is it moving too slow? Which can be
> determined by different temperatures in different spots. (low flow).
>
> Then you keep going down the "flow-chart" to test other components. At
> least that is how I think this problem should be approached instead of
> jumping up and installing a new radiator when it may not be the problem.
> ;-)
>
> And that is true.......and we all agree....... it's not flowing properly!
> lol
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> news:bridneumx40lcDHYnZ2dnUVZ_sOknZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> Replace 'no flow' with 'low flow'. If you can't see coolant moving
>> through the neck, it's not flowing properly. Bottom line. I had the same
>> exact problem with a different car. New radiator, no problem.
>>
>> OP. Fix this all ready and get back to us.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:du4rh.23640$sR.13137@newssvr29.news.prodigy.n et...
>>> Yeah but the OP is experiencing "overheating" ONLY at higher RPMs which
>>> could be a restriction and YES AFAIK it could be a collasping lower hose
>>> at the higher RPMs. Couldn't it be?
>>> And who says it is not flowing. It could be that the flow is low and
>>> the heated coolant does not make it to the neck where the OP sticks his
>>> finger. 8^) Although the OP says that the coolant/water is warm there.
>>> Remember that the engine is not overheating even after idling for over
>>> 45 minutes. So AFAIK it has to flow through the radiator.
>>> That is why I asked if the corners of the radiator got hot and was told
>>> those areas were not accessible. :-(
>>> --
>>> later,
>>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>>
>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>
>>>> Not the lower hose. If it was the hose it would flow at idle. Try the
>>>> thermostat first, but my money is on the radiator.
>>>>
>>>> Carl
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:d3Zqh.12483$x67.5388@newssvr17.news.prodigy.n et...
>>>>> YEP good now that we know you have inside heat...............
>>>>>
>>>>> Kinda boils down to:
>>>>> Defective Radiator
>>>>> Defective Thermostat
>>>>> Lower Radiator Hose needing a spring inside to prevent collapsing.
>>>>>
>>>>> To name a few or it could be all of them or even something else!
>>>>> I vote for the thermostat...........buy it from the dealer!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:hradnX3TN7B60zHYnZ2dnUVZ_rqhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>>> Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>>>> radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs
>>>>>> to be replaced.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Carl
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
#205
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
The water pump not spinning would likely not provide good heat in the jeep
at idle. The OP stated he has good heat.
Carl
"dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:fIfrh.34679$Gr2.10484@newssvr21.news.prodigy. net...
> Well a broken water pump (impeller not moving) would create a 'no flow'
> situation.
> Would you not agree?
> Also other things could create a 'no flow' situation too, but usually a
> broken water pump is more common. :-)
>
> Using a "flow-chart" to determine what is wrong.
> (OP reported that the 1. coolant level is full and the 2. water pump
> pulley is turning)
> 3. Going down the chart of things to check you want to know if the coolant
> is moving at all which can be determined by no heat in the cabin. (no
> flow)
> 4. Then if the coolant is flowing, is it moving too slow? Which can be
> determined by different temperatures in different spots. (low flow).
>
> Then you keep going down the "flow-chart" to test other components. At
> least that is how I think this problem should be approached instead of
> jumping up and installing a new radiator when it may not be the problem.
> ;-)
>
> And that is true.......and we all agree....... it's not flowing properly!
> lol
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> news:bridneumx40lcDHYnZ2dnUVZ_sOknZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> Replace 'no flow' with 'low flow'. If you can't see coolant moving
>> through the neck, it's not flowing properly. Bottom line. I had the same
>> exact problem with a different car. New radiator, no problem.
>>
>> OP. Fix this all ready and get back to us.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:du4rh.23640$sR.13137@newssvr29.news.prodigy.n et...
>>> Yeah but the OP is experiencing "overheating" ONLY at higher RPMs which
>>> could be a restriction and YES AFAIK it could be a collasping lower hose
>>> at the higher RPMs. Couldn't it be?
>>> And who says it is not flowing. It could be that the flow is low and
>>> the heated coolant does not make it to the neck where the OP sticks his
>>> finger. 8^) Although the OP says that the coolant/water is warm there.
>>> Remember that the engine is not overheating even after idling for over
>>> 45 minutes. So AFAIK it has to flow through the radiator.
>>> That is why I asked if the corners of the radiator got hot and was told
>>> those areas were not accessible. :-(
>>> --
>>> later,
>>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>>
>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>
>>>> Not the lower hose. If it was the hose it would flow at idle. Try the
>>>> thermostat first, but my money is on the radiator.
>>>>
>>>> Carl
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:d3Zqh.12483$x67.5388@newssvr17.news.prodigy.n et...
>>>>> YEP good now that we know you have inside heat...............
>>>>>
>>>>> Kinda boils down to:
>>>>> Defective Radiator
>>>>> Defective Thermostat
>>>>> Lower Radiator Hose needing a spring inside to prevent collapsing.
>>>>>
>>>>> To name a few or it could be all of them or even something else!
>>>>> I vote for the thermostat...........buy it from the dealer!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:hradnX3TN7B60zHYnZ2dnUVZ_rqhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>>> Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>>>> radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs
>>>>>> to be replaced.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Carl
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
at idle. The OP stated he has good heat.
Carl
"dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:fIfrh.34679$Gr2.10484@newssvr21.news.prodigy. net...
> Well a broken water pump (impeller not moving) would create a 'no flow'
> situation.
> Would you not agree?
> Also other things could create a 'no flow' situation too, but usually a
> broken water pump is more common. :-)
>
> Using a "flow-chart" to determine what is wrong.
> (OP reported that the 1. coolant level is full and the 2. water pump
> pulley is turning)
> 3. Going down the chart of things to check you want to know if the coolant
> is moving at all which can be determined by no heat in the cabin. (no
> flow)
> 4. Then if the coolant is flowing, is it moving too slow? Which can be
> determined by different temperatures in different spots. (low flow).
>
> Then you keep going down the "flow-chart" to test other components. At
> least that is how I think this problem should be approached instead of
> jumping up and installing a new radiator when it may not be the problem.
> ;-)
>
> And that is true.......and we all agree....... it's not flowing properly!
> lol
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> news:bridneumx40lcDHYnZ2dnUVZ_sOknZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> Replace 'no flow' with 'low flow'. If you can't see coolant moving
>> through the neck, it's not flowing properly. Bottom line. I had the same
>> exact problem with a different car. New radiator, no problem.
>>
>> OP. Fix this all ready and get back to us.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:du4rh.23640$sR.13137@newssvr29.news.prodigy.n et...
>>> Yeah but the OP is experiencing "overheating" ONLY at higher RPMs which
>>> could be a restriction and YES AFAIK it could be a collasping lower hose
>>> at the higher RPMs. Couldn't it be?
>>> And who says it is not flowing. It could be that the flow is low and
>>> the heated coolant does not make it to the neck where the OP sticks his
>>> finger. 8^) Although the OP says that the coolant/water is warm there.
>>> Remember that the engine is not overheating even after idling for over
>>> 45 minutes. So AFAIK it has to flow through the radiator.
>>> That is why I asked if the corners of the radiator got hot and was told
>>> those areas were not accessible. :-(
>>> --
>>> later,
>>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>>
>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>
>>>> Not the lower hose. If it was the hose it would flow at idle. Try the
>>>> thermostat first, but my money is on the radiator.
>>>>
>>>> Carl
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:d3Zqh.12483$x67.5388@newssvr17.news.prodigy.n et...
>>>>> YEP good now that we know you have inside heat...............
>>>>>
>>>>> Kinda boils down to:
>>>>> Defective Radiator
>>>>> Defective Thermostat
>>>>> Lower Radiator Hose needing a spring inside to prevent collapsing.
>>>>>
>>>>> To name a few or it could be all of them or even something else!
>>>>> I vote for the thermostat...........buy it from the dealer!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:hradnX3TN7B60zHYnZ2dnUVZ_rqhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>>> Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>>>> radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs
>>>>>> to be replaced.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Carl
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
#206
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
Part of failing parts are also where this vehicle spends most of it's life
and how it is driven.
I know of a lot of vehicles with over 160K miles that reside in Chicago that
still have their original radiators.
Of course there are a few radiators that fail around that 120K mark or
before, but I attribute this to improper maintenance or damage due to stress
or just not well built. Stress can come from the body twisting over uneven
roads, or small bumps from hitting something like other vehicles.
I would imagine that down south things take less of a beating from extreme
drastic temperature changes that happen up north. I bet your roads are
generally smoother too! <g>
I sure would like to find an original (unrestored) 1969 or 1970 VW Beetle
Convertible in good condition up here! ROFL
I did replace my '88 XJ 4.0 radiator at around 160K miles 2 years ago. The
fins were rotting away and the plastic tanks finally started to leak. It
was clean inside, but I think the deterioration started on the outside and
was not helped by the chemicals used to treat ice in the winter time. I
guess if I removed the radiator and painted it every XX years maybe I could
have prolonged it's life too! lol
Just don't replace something due to it's age!!!
JMHO
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:NrKdndUh6NlK5zDYnZ2dnUVZ_t2tnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> With average maintenance, at 120K a radiator is usually ready to be
> replaced. Your vehicles are the exception, not the rule.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
> news:lchqq2l4an9jc8qkjaoe0uvkjnfu79hae4@4ax.com...
>> On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 20:04:51 -0800, "Carl"
>> <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to be
>>>replaced.
>>
>>
>> Mileage does not determine need to replace it, it is the quality of
>> coolant that has been maintained in it that does. I have a 50 year old
>> original raditor in a old tractor that is still clean. I got it off of
>> second owner 22 years ago that had always maintianed a higher
>> antifreeze to water ratio and I have had it at 70/30 and above since I
>> got it. My 89 Burb has never been flushed since I got it new and it is
>> still clean as a whistle and even the overflow tank is spotless. It
>> has no cooling iusses in any temp or load still and it has had 70/30
>> in it since shortly after I got it.
>> -----------------
>> TheSnoMan.com
>
>
and how it is driven.
I know of a lot of vehicles with over 160K miles that reside in Chicago that
still have their original radiators.
Of course there are a few radiators that fail around that 120K mark or
before, but I attribute this to improper maintenance or damage due to stress
or just not well built. Stress can come from the body twisting over uneven
roads, or small bumps from hitting something like other vehicles.
I would imagine that down south things take less of a beating from extreme
drastic temperature changes that happen up north. I bet your roads are
generally smoother too! <g>
I sure would like to find an original (unrestored) 1969 or 1970 VW Beetle
Convertible in good condition up here! ROFL
I did replace my '88 XJ 4.0 radiator at around 160K miles 2 years ago. The
fins were rotting away and the plastic tanks finally started to leak. It
was clean inside, but I think the deterioration started on the outside and
was not helped by the chemicals used to treat ice in the winter time. I
guess if I removed the radiator and painted it every XX years maybe I could
have prolonged it's life too! lol
Just don't replace something due to it's age!!!
JMHO
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:NrKdndUh6NlK5zDYnZ2dnUVZ_t2tnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> With average maintenance, at 120K a radiator is usually ready to be
> replaced. Your vehicles are the exception, not the rule.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
> news:lchqq2l4an9jc8qkjaoe0uvkjnfu79hae4@4ax.com...
>> On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 20:04:51 -0800, "Carl"
>> <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to be
>>>replaced.
>>
>>
>> Mileage does not determine need to replace it, it is the quality of
>> coolant that has been maintained in it that does. I have a 50 year old
>> original raditor in a old tractor that is still clean. I got it off of
>> second owner 22 years ago that had always maintianed a higher
>> antifreeze to water ratio and I have had it at 70/30 and above since I
>> got it. My 89 Burb has never been flushed since I got it new and it is
>> still clean as a whistle and even the overflow tank is spotless. It
>> has no cooling iusses in any temp or load still and it has had 70/30
>> in it since shortly after I got it.
>> -----------------
>> TheSnoMan.com
>
>
#207
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
Part of failing parts are also where this vehicle spends most of it's life
and how it is driven.
I know of a lot of vehicles with over 160K miles that reside in Chicago that
still have their original radiators.
Of course there are a few radiators that fail around that 120K mark or
before, but I attribute this to improper maintenance or damage due to stress
or just not well built. Stress can come from the body twisting over uneven
roads, or small bumps from hitting something like other vehicles.
I would imagine that down south things take less of a beating from extreme
drastic temperature changes that happen up north. I bet your roads are
generally smoother too! <g>
I sure would like to find an original (unrestored) 1969 or 1970 VW Beetle
Convertible in good condition up here! ROFL
I did replace my '88 XJ 4.0 radiator at around 160K miles 2 years ago. The
fins were rotting away and the plastic tanks finally started to leak. It
was clean inside, but I think the deterioration started on the outside and
was not helped by the chemicals used to treat ice in the winter time. I
guess if I removed the radiator and painted it every XX years maybe I could
have prolonged it's life too! lol
Just don't replace something due to it's age!!!
JMHO
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:NrKdndUh6NlK5zDYnZ2dnUVZ_t2tnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> With average maintenance, at 120K a radiator is usually ready to be
> replaced. Your vehicles are the exception, not the rule.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
> news:lchqq2l4an9jc8qkjaoe0uvkjnfu79hae4@4ax.com...
>> On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 20:04:51 -0800, "Carl"
>> <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to be
>>>replaced.
>>
>>
>> Mileage does not determine need to replace it, it is the quality of
>> coolant that has been maintained in it that does. I have a 50 year old
>> original raditor in a old tractor that is still clean. I got it off of
>> second owner 22 years ago that had always maintianed a higher
>> antifreeze to water ratio and I have had it at 70/30 and above since I
>> got it. My 89 Burb has never been flushed since I got it new and it is
>> still clean as a whistle and even the overflow tank is spotless. It
>> has no cooling iusses in any temp or load still and it has had 70/30
>> in it since shortly after I got it.
>> -----------------
>> TheSnoMan.com
>
>
and how it is driven.
I know of a lot of vehicles with over 160K miles that reside in Chicago that
still have their original radiators.
Of course there are a few radiators that fail around that 120K mark or
before, but I attribute this to improper maintenance or damage due to stress
or just not well built. Stress can come from the body twisting over uneven
roads, or small bumps from hitting something like other vehicles.
I would imagine that down south things take less of a beating from extreme
drastic temperature changes that happen up north. I bet your roads are
generally smoother too! <g>
I sure would like to find an original (unrestored) 1969 or 1970 VW Beetle
Convertible in good condition up here! ROFL
I did replace my '88 XJ 4.0 radiator at around 160K miles 2 years ago. The
fins were rotting away and the plastic tanks finally started to leak. It
was clean inside, but I think the deterioration started on the outside and
was not helped by the chemicals used to treat ice in the winter time. I
guess if I removed the radiator and painted it every XX years maybe I could
have prolonged it's life too! lol
Just don't replace something due to it's age!!!
JMHO
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:NrKdndUh6NlK5zDYnZ2dnUVZ_t2tnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> With average maintenance, at 120K a radiator is usually ready to be
> replaced. Your vehicles are the exception, not the rule.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
> news:lchqq2l4an9jc8qkjaoe0uvkjnfu79hae4@4ax.com...
>> On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 20:04:51 -0800, "Carl"
>> <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to be
>>>replaced.
>>
>>
>> Mileage does not determine need to replace it, it is the quality of
>> coolant that has been maintained in it that does. I have a 50 year old
>> original raditor in a old tractor that is still clean. I got it off of
>> second owner 22 years ago that had always maintianed a higher
>> antifreeze to water ratio and I have had it at 70/30 and above since I
>> got it. My 89 Burb has never been flushed since I got it new and it is
>> still clean as a whistle and even the overflow tank is spotless. It
>> has no cooling iusses in any temp or load still and it has had 70/30
>> in it since shortly after I got it.
>> -----------------
>> TheSnoMan.com
>
>
#208
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
Part of failing parts are also where this vehicle spends most of it's life
and how it is driven.
I know of a lot of vehicles with over 160K miles that reside in Chicago that
still have their original radiators.
Of course there are a few radiators that fail around that 120K mark or
before, but I attribute this to improper maintenance or damage due to stress
or just not well built. Stress can come from the body twisting over uneven
roads, or small bumps from hitting something like other vehicles.
I would imagine that down south things take less of a beating from extreme
drastic temperature changes that happen up north. I bet your roads are
generally smoother too! <g>
I sure would like to find an original (unrestored) 1969 or 1970 VW Beetle
Convertible in good condition up here! ROFL
I did replace my '88 XJ 4.0 radiator at around 160K miles 2 years ago. The
fins were rotting away and the plastic tanks finally started to leak. It
was clean inside, but I think the deterioration started on the outside and
was not helped by the chemicals used to treat ice in the winter time. I
guess if I removed the radiator and painted it every XX years maybe I could
have prolonged it's life too! lol
Just don't replace something due to it's age!!!
JMHO
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:NrKdndUh6NlK5zDYnZ2dnUVZ_t2tnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> With average maintenance, at 120K a radiator is usually ready to be
> replaced. Your vehicles are the exception, not the rule.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
> news:lchqq2l4an9jc8qkjaoe0uvkjnfu79hae4@4ax.com...
>> On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 20:04:51 -0800, "Carl"
>> <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to be
>>>replaced.
>>
>>
>> Mileage does not determine need to replace it, it is the quality of
>> coolant that has been maintained in it that does. I have a 50 year old
>> original raditor in a old tractor that is still clean. I got it off of
>> second owner 22 years ago that had always maintianed a higher
>> antifreeze to water ratio and I have had it at 70/30 and above since I
>> got it. My 89 Burb has never been flushed since I got it new and it is
>> still clean as a whistle and even the overflow tank is spotless. It
>> has no cooling iusses in any temp or load still and it has had 70/30
>> in it since shortly after I got it.
>> -----------------
>> TheSnoMan.com
>
>
and how it is driven.
I know of a lot of vehicles with over 160K miles that reside in Chicago that
still have their original radiators.
Of course there are a few radiators that fail around that 120K mark or
before, but I attribute this to improper maintenance or damage due to stress
or just not well built. Stress can come from the body twisting over uneven
roads, or small bumps from hitting something like other vehicles.
I would imagine that down south things take less of a beating from extreme
drastic temperature changes that happen up north. I bet your roads are
generally smoother too! <g>
I sure would like to find an original (unrestored) 1969 or 1970 VW Beetle
Convertible in good condition up here! ROFL
I did replace my '88 XJ 4.0 radiator at around 160K miles 2 years ago. The
fins were rotting away and the plastic tanks finally started to leak. It
was clean inside, but I think the deterioration started on the outside and
was not helped by the chemicals used to treat ice in the winter time. I
guess if I removed the radiator and painted it every XX years maybe I could
have prolonged it's life too! lol
Just don't replace something due to it's age!!!
JMHO
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:NrKdndUh6NlK5zDYnZ2dnUVZ_t2tnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> With average maintenance, at 120K a radiator is usually ready to be
> replaced. Your vehicles are the exception, not the rule.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
> news:lchqq2l4an9jc8qkjaoe0uvkjnfu79hae4@4ax.com...
>> On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 20:04:51 -0800, "Carl"
>> <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to be
>>>replaced.
>>
>>
>> Mileage does not determine need to replace it, it is the quality of
>> coolant that has been maintained in it that does. I have a 50 year old
>> original raditor in a old tractor that is still clean. I got it off of
>> second owner 22 years ago that had always maintianed a higher
>> antifreeze to water ratio and I have had it at 70/30 and above since I
>> got it. My 89 Burb has never been flushed since I got it new and it is
>> still clean as a whistle and even the overflow tank is spotless. It
>> has no cooling iusses in any temp or load still and it has had 70/30
>> in it since shortly after I got it.
>> -----------------
>> TheSnoMan.com
>
>
#209
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
Part of failing parts are also where this vehicle spends most of it's life
and how it is driven.
I know of a lot of vehicles with over 160K miles that reside in Chicago that
still have their original radiators.
Of course there are a few radiators that fail around that 120K mark or
before, but I attribute this to improper maintenance or damage due to stress
or just not well built. Stress can come from the body twisting over uneven
roads, or small bumps from hitting something like other vehicles.
I would imagine that down south things take less of a beating from extreme
drastic temperature changes that happen up north. I bet your roads are
generally smoother too! <g>
I sure would like to find an original (unrestored) 1969 or 1970 VW Beetle
Convertible in good condition up here! ROFL
I did replace my '88 XJ 4.0 radiator at around 160K miles 2 years ago. The
fins were rotting away and the plastic tanks finally started to leak. It
was clean inside, but I think the deterioration started on the outside and
was not helped by the chemicals used to treat ice in the winter time. I
guess if I removed the radiator and painted it every XX years maybe I could
have prolonged it's life too! lol
Just don't replace something due to it's age!!!
JMHO
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:NrKdndUh6NlK5zDYnZ2dnUVZ_t2tnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> With average maintenance, at 120K a radiator is usually ready to be
> replaced. Your vehicles are the exception, not the rule.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
> news:lchqq2l4an9jc8qkjaoe0uvkjnfu79hae4@4ax.com...
>> On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 20:04:51 -0800, "Carl"
>> <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to be
>>>replaced.
>>
>>
>> Mileage does not determine need to replace it, it is the quality of
>> coolant that has been maintained in it that does. I have a 50 year old
>> original raditor in a old tractor that is still clean. I got it off of
>> second owner 22 years ago that had always maintianed a higher
>> antifreeze to water ratio and I have had it at 70/30 and above since I
>> got it. My 89 Burb has never been flushed since I got it new and it is
>> still clean as a whistle and even the overflow tank is spotless. It
>> has no cooling iusses in any temp or load still and it has had 70/30
>> in it since shortly after I got it.
>> -----------------
>> TheSnoMan.com
>
>
and how it is driven.
I know of a lot of vehicles with over 160K miles that reside in Chicago that
still have their original radiators.
Of course there are a few radiators that fail around that 120K mark or
before, but I attribute this to improper maintenance or damage due to stress
or just not well built. Stress can come from the body twisting over uneven
roads, or small bumps from hitting something like other vehicles.
I would imagine that down south things take less of a beating from extreme
drastic temperature changes that happen up north. I bet your roads are
generally smoother too! <g>
I sure would like to find an original (unrestored) 1969 or 1970 VW Beetle
Convertible in good condition up here! ROFL
I did replace my '88 XJ 4.0 radiator at around 160K miles 2 years ago. The
fins were rotting away and the plastic tanks finally started to leak. It
was clean inside, but I think the deterioration started on the outside and
was not helped by the chemicals used to treat ice in the winter time. I
guess if I removed the radiator and painted it every XX years maybe I could
have prolonged it's life too! lol
Just don't replace something due to it's age!!!
JMHO
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:NrKdndUh6NlK5zDYnZ2dnUVZ_t2tnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> With average maintenance, at 120K a radiator is usually ready to be
> replaced. Your vehicles are the exception, not the rule.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
> news:lchqq2l4an9jc8qkjaoe0uvkjnfu79hae4@4ax.com...
>> On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 20:04:51 -0800, "Carl"
>> <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to be
>>>replaced.
>>
>>
>> Mileage does not determine need to replace it, it is the quality of
>> coolant that has been maintained in it that does. I have a 50 year old
>> original raditor in a old tractor that is still clean. I got it off of
>> second owner 22 years ago that had always maintianed a higher
>> antifreeze to water ratio and I have had it at 70/30 and above since I
>> got it. My 89 Burb has never been flushed since I got it new and it is
>> still clean as a whistle and even the overflow tank is spotless. It
>> has no cooling iusses in any temp or load still and it has had 70/30
>> in it since shortly after I got it.
>> -----------------
>> TheSnoMan.com
>
>
#210
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:xI6dndfLZI8dFDDYnZ2dnUVZ_v-tnZ2d@comcast.com...
> The water pump not spinning would likely not provide good heat in the jeep
> at idle. The OP stated he has good heat.
>
IIRC Only after I asked, to determine if the coolant was flowing!
That is why I was performing a flow chart of questions!
Now unless I missed an early post that you caught???
hmmm maybe I did miss that post.......thanks Carl and could you repost it
when the OP first said he had good heat?
I know at one time I was getting NO newsgroup messages.
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
news:xI6dndfLZI8dFDDYnZ2dnUVZ_v-tnZ2d@comcast.com...
> The water pump not spinning would likely not provide good heat in the jeep
> at idle. The OP stated he has good heat.
>
IIRC Only after I asked, to determine if the coolant was flowing!
That is why I was performing a flow chart of questions!
Now unless I missed an early post that you caught???
hmmm maybe I did miss that post.......thanks Carl and could you repost it
when the OP first said he had good heat?
I know at one time I was getting NO newsgroup messages.
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1