Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
#151
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
No flow is only caused by four things. Clogged radiator, clogged block, bad
t-stat, bad water pump. Tell us if the heat is working. If it works well,
it's the radiator.
Carl
"Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message
news:wJidnd5To_1CITbYnZ2dnUVZ_tWhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> James wrote:
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
> Mike Roman responded:
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
>
> I still think it would be good to verify the temp guage is really showing
> the correct temp. Where is the temp sensor that the guage could read >200
> and the coolant not burn a finger?
>
> But then, what do I know? I have not worked on my on vehicles for years...
>
> Regards,
> doug
>
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> news:isqdnZN7p-txfDfYnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
>> James,
>>
>> My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator. No
>> coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of the
>> three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden
>> hose, or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored. While
>> it's off replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again), flush
>> the entire system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
>>
>> Hope this helps,
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>> news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies.
>>>No
>>> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>>>
>>> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
>>> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range, but
>>> five
>>> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around 225.
>>> I
>>> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>>>
>>> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
>>> pressure
>>> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is
>>> water
>>> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up). I
>>> did
>>> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first
>>> engine
>>> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>>>
>>> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
>>> stayed
>>> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>>> running
>>> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
>>> all
>>> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>>>
>>> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the
>>> engine
>>> ran for 45 mins ??
>>>
>>>
>>> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --James--
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>> -------------------------------
>>>
>>> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
>>>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
>>>> when
>>>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
>>>> incline, even at very slow speed.
>>>>
>>>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
>>>> light.
>>>>
>>>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
>>>> some
>>>> at idle.
>>>>
>>>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
>>>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
>>>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats
>>>> on
>>>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>>>>
>>>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some
>>>> circumstances. I
>>>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for
>>>> six
>>>> years and I know how it performs.
>>>>
>>>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>>>>
>>>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
>>>> just
>>>> to install a new radiator?
>>>>
>>>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
>>>> (Water pump does not leak).
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for any tips !!!
>>>>
>>>> --James--
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
t-stat, bad water pump. Tell us if the heat is working. If it works well,
it's the radiator.
Carl
"Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message
news:wJidnd5To_1CITbYnZ2dnUVZ_tWhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> James wrote:
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
> Mike Roman responded:
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
>
> I still think it would be good to verify the temp guage is really showing
> the correct temp. Where is the temp sensor that the guage could read >200
> and the coolant not burn a finger?
>
> But then, what do I know? I have not worked on my on vehicles for years...
>
> Regards,
> doug
>
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> news:isqdnZN7p-txfDfYnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
>> James,
>>
>> My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator. No
>> coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of the
>> three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden
>> hose, or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored. While
>> it's off replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again), flush
>> the entire system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
>>
>> Hope this helps,
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>> news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies.
>>>No
>>> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>>>
>>> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
>>> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range, but
>>> five
>>> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around 225.
>>> I
>>> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>>>
>>> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
>>> pressure
>>> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is
>>> water
>>> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up). I
>>> did
>>> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first
>>> engine
>>> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>>>
>>> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
>>> stayed
>>> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>>> running
>>> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
>>> all
>>> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>>>
>>> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the
>>> engine
>>> ran for 45 mins ??
>>>
>>>
>>> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --James--
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>> -------------------------------
>>>
>>> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
>>>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
>>>> when
>>>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
>>>> incline, even at very slow speed.
>>>>
>>>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
>>>> light.
>>>>
>>>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
>>>> some
>>>> at idle.
>>>>
>>>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
>>>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
>>>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats
>>>> on
>>>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>>>>
>>>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some
>>>> circumstances. I
>>>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for
>>>> six
>>>> years and I know how it performs.
>>>>
>>>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>>>>
>>>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
>>>> just
>>>> to install a new radiator?
>>>>
>>>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
>>>> (Water pump does not leak).
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for any tips !!!
>>>>
>>>> --James--
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
#152
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
No flow is only caused by four things. Clogged radiator, clogged block, bad
t-stat, bad water pump. Tell us if the heat is working. If it works well,
it's the radiator.
Carl
"Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message
news:wJidnd5To_1CITbYnZ2dnUVZ_tWhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> James wrote:
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
> Mike Roman responded:
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
>
> I still think it would be good to verify the temp guage is really showing
> the correct temp. Where is the temp sensor that the guage could read >200
> and the coolant not burn a finger?
>
> But then, what do I know? I have not worked on my on vehicles for years...
>
> Regards,
> doug
>
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> news:isqdnZN7p-txfDfYnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
>> James,
>>
>> My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator. No
>> coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of the
>> three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden
>> hose, or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored. While
>> it's off replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again), flush
>> the entire system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
>>
>> Hope this helps,
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>> news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies.
>>>No
>>> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>>>
>>> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
>>> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range, but
>>> five
>>> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around 225.
>>> I
>>> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>>>
>>> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
>>> pressure
>>> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is
>>> water
>>> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up). I
>>> did
>>> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first
>>> engine
>>> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>>>
>>> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
>>> stayed
>>> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>>> running
>>> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
>>> all
>>> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>>>
>>> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the
>>> engine
>>> ran for 45 mins ??
>>>
>>>
>>> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --James--
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>> -------------------------------
>>>
>>> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
>>>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
>>>> when
>>>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
>>>> incline, even at very slow speed.
>>>>
>>>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
>>>> light.
>>>>
>>>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
>>>> some
>>>> at idle.
>>>>
>>>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
>>>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
>>>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats
>>>> on
>>>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>>>>
>>>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some
>>>> circumstances. I
>>>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for
>>>> six
>>>> years and I know how it performs.
>>>>
>>>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>>>>
>>>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
>>>> just
>>>> to install a new radiator?
>>>>
>>>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
>>>> (Water pump does not leak).
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for any tips !!!
>>>>
>>>> --James--
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
t-stat, bad water pump. Tell us if the heat is working. If it works well,
it's the radiator.
Carl
"Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message
news:wJidnd5To_1CITbYnZ2dnUVZ_tWhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> James wrote:
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
> Mike Roman responded:
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
>
> I still think it would be good to verify the temp guage is really showing
> the correct temp. Where is the temp sensor that the guage could read >200
> and the coolant not burn a finger?
>
> But then, what do I know? I have not worked on my on vehicles for years...
>
> Regards,
> doug
>
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> news:isqdnZN7p-txfDfYnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
>> James,
>>
>> My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator. No
>> coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of the
>> three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden
>> hose, or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored. While
>> it's off replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again), flush
>> the entire system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
>>
>> Hope this helps,
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>> news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies.
>>>No
>>> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>>>
>>> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
>>> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range, but
>>> five
>>> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around 225.
>>> I
>>> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>>>
>>> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
>>> pressure
>>> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is
>>> water
>>> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up). I
>>> did
>>> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first
>>> engine
>>> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>>>
>>> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
>>> stayed
>>> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>>> running
>>> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
>>> all
>>> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>>>
>>> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the
>>> engine
>>> ran for 45 mins ??
>>>
>>>
>>> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --James--
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>> -------------------------------
>>>
>>> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
>>>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
>>>> when
>>>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
>>>> incline, even at very slow speed.
>>>>
>>>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
>>>> light.
>>>>
>>>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
>>>> some
>>>> at idle.
>>>>
>>>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
>>>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
>>>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats
>>>> on
>>>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>>>>
>>>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some
>>>> circumstances. I
>>>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for
>>>> six
>>>> years and I know how it performs.
>>>>
>>>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>>>>
>>>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
>>>> just
>>>> to install a new radiator?
>>>>
>>>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
>>>> (Water pump does not leak).
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for any tips !!!
>>>>
>>>> --James--
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
#153
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
No flow is only caused by four things. Clogged radiator, clogged block, bad
t-stat, bad water pump. Tell us if the heat is working. If it works well,
it's the radiator.
Carl
"Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message
news:wJidnd5To_1CITbYnZ2dnUVZ_tWhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> James wrote:
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
> Mike Roman responded:
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
>
> I still think it would be good to verify the temp guage is really showing
> the correct temp. Where is the temp sensor that the guage could read >200
> and the coolant not burn a finger?
>
> But then, what do I know? I have not worked on my on vehicles for years...
>
> Regards,
> doug
>
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> news:isqdnZN7p-txfDfYnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
>> James,
>>
>> My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator. No
>> coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of the
>> three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden
>> hose, or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored. While
>> it's off replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again), flush
>> the entire system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
>>
>> Hope this helps,
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>> news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies.
>>>No
>>> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>>>
>>> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
>>> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range, but
>>> five
>>> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around 225.
>>> I
>>> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>>>
>>> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
>>> pressure
>>> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is
>>> water
>>> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up). I
>>> did
>>> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first
>>> engine
>>> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>>>
>>> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
>>> stayed
>>> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>>> running
>>> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
>>> all
>>> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>>>
>>> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the
>>> engine
>>> ran for 45 mins ??
>>>
>>>
>>> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --James--
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>> -------------------------------
>>>
>>> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
>>>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
>>>> when
>>>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
>>>> incline, even at very slow speed.
>>>>
>>>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
>>>> light.
>>>>
>>>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
>>>> some
>>>> at idle.
>>>>
>>>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
>>>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
>>>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats
>>>> on
>>>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>>>>
>>>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some
>>>> circumstances. I
>>>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for
>>>> six
>>>> years and I know how it performs.
>>>>
>>>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>>>>
>>>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
>>>> just
>>>> to install a new radiator?
>>>>
>>>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
>>>> (Water pump does not leak).
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for any tips !!!
>>>>
>>>> --James--
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
t-stat, bad water pump. Tell us if the heat is working. If it works well,
it's the radiator.
Carl
"Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message
news:wJidnd5To_1CITbYnZ2dnUVZ_tWhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> James wrote:
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
> Mike Roman responded:
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
>
> I still think it would be good to verify the temp guage is really showing
> the correct temp. Where is the temp sensor that the guage could read >200
> and the coolant not burn a finger?
>
> But then, what do I know? I have not worked on my on vehicles for years...
>
> Regards,
> doug
>
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> news:isqdnZN7p-txfDfYnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
>> James,
>>
>> My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator. No
>> coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of the
>> three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden
>> hose, or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored. While
>> it's off replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again), flush
>> the entire system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
>>
>> Hope this helps,
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>> news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies.
>>>No
>>> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>>>
>>> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
>>> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range, but
>>> five
>>> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around 225.
>>> I
>>> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>>>
>>> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
>>> pressure
>>> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is
>>> water
>>> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up). I
>>> did
>>> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first
>>> engine
>>> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>>>
>>> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
>>> stayed
>>> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>>> running
>>> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
>>> all
>>> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>>>
>>> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the
>>> engine
>>> ran for 45 mins ??
>>>
>>>
>>> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --James--
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>> -------------------------------
>>>
>>> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
>>>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
>>>> when
>>>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
>>>> incline, even at very slow speed.
>>>>
>>>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
>>>> light.
>>>>
>>>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
>>>> some
>>>> at idle.
>>>>
>>>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
>>>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
>>>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats
>>>> on
>>>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>>>>
>>>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some
>>>> circumstances. I
>>>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for
>>>> six
>>>> years and I know how it performs.
>>>>
>>>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>>>>
>>>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
>>>> just
>>>> to install a new radiator?
>>>>
>>>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
>>>> (Water pump does not leak).
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for any tips !!!
>>>>
>>>> --James--
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
#154
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
You forgot collapsed or clogged hose.
Earle
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:gvSdnSaFOLwWqTHYnZ2dnUVZ_tijnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> No flow is only caused by four things. Clogged radiator, clogged block,
bad
> t-stat, bad water pump. Tell us if the heat is working. If it works well,
> it's the radiator.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message
> news:wJidnd5To_1CITbYnZ2dnUVZ_tWhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> > James wrote:
> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
stayed
> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> > running
> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> > all
> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >
> > Mike Roman responded:
> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
stayed
> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> > running
> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> > all
> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >
> >
> > I still think it would be good to verify the temp guage is really
showing
> > the correct temp. Where is the temp sensor that the guage could read
>200
> > and the coolant not burn a finger?
> >
> > But then, what do I know? I have not worked on my on vehicles for
years...
> >
> > Regards,
> > doug
> >
> >
> > "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> > news:isqdnZN7p-txfDfYnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
> >> James,
> >>
> >> My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator. No
> >> coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of the
> >> three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden
> >> hose, or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored. While
> >> it's off replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again),
flush
> >> the entire system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
> >>
> >> Hope this helps,
> >>
> >> Carl
> >>
> >>
> >> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
> >> news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> >>>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies.
> >>>No
> >>> remedy yet, this is just an update.
> >>>
> >>> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
> >>> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range,
but
> >>> five
> >>> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around
225.
> >>> I
> >>> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
> >>>
> >>> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
> >>> pressure
> >>> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is
> >>> water
> >>> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up).
I
> >>> did
> >>> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first
> >>> engine
> >>> start, I saw no water flow. None.
> >>>
> >>> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
> >>> stayed
> >>> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> >>> running
> >>> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
at
> >>> all
> >>> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >>>
> >>> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the
> >>> engine
> >>> ran for 45 mins ??
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Any further comments will be appreciated.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> --James--
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
>
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> >>> -------------------------------
> >>>
> >>> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
> >>>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
> >>>> when
> >>>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
> >>>> incline, even at very slow speed.
> >>>>
> >>>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a
traffic
> >>>> light.
> >>>>
> >>>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
> >>>> some
> >>>> at idle.
> >>>>
> >>>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that
I
> >>>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
> >>>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats
> >>>> on
> >>>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
> >>>>
> >>>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some
> >>>> circumstances. I
> >>>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for
> >>>> six
> >>>> years and I know how it performs.
> >>>>
> >>>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
> >>>>
> >>>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
> >>>> just
> >>>> to install a new radiator?
> >>>>
> >>>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down
more?
> >>>> (Water pump does not leak).
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Thanks for any tips !!!
> >>>>
> >>>> --James--
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
Earle
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:gvSdnSaFOLwWqTHYnZ2dnUVZ_tijnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> No flow is only caused by four things. Clogged radiator, clogged block,
bad
> t-stat, bad water pump. Tell us if the heat is working. If it works well,
> it's the radiator.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message
> news:wJidnd5To_1CITbYnZ2dnUVZ_tWhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> > James wrote:
> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
stayed
> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> > running
> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> > all
> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >
> > Mike Roman responded:
> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
stayed
> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> > running
> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> > all
> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >
> >
> > I still think it would be good to verify the temp guage is really
showing
> > the correct temp. Where is the temp sensor that the guage could read
>200
> > and the coolant not burn a finger?
> >
> > But then, what do I know? I have not worked on my on vehicles for
years...
> >
> > Regards,
> > doug
> >
> >
> > "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> > news:isqdnZN7p-txfDfYnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
> >> James,
> >>
> >> My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator. No
> >> coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of the
> >> three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden
> >> hose, or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored. While
> >> it's off replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again),
flush
> >> the entire system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
> >>
> >> Hope this helps,
> >>
> >> Carl
> >>
> >>
> >> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
> >> news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> >>>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies.
> >>>No
> >>> remedy yet, this is just an update.
> >>>
> >>> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
> >>> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range,
but
> >>> five
> >>> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around
225.
> >>> I
> >>> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
> >>>
> >>> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
> >>> pressure
> >>> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is
> >>> water
> >>> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up).
I
> >>> did
> >>> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first
> >>> engine
> >>> start, I saw no water flow. None.
> >>>
> >>> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
> >>> stayed
> >>> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> >>> running
> >>> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
at
> >>> all
> >>> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >>>
> >>> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the
> >>> engine
> >>> ran for 45 mins ??
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Any further comments will be appreciated.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> --James--
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
>
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> >>> -------------------------------
> >>>
> >>> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
> >>>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
> >>>> when
> >>>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
> >>>> incline, even at very slow speed.
> >>>>
> >>>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a
traffic
> >>>> light.
> >>>>
> >>>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
> >>>> some
> >>>> at idle.
> >>>>
> >>>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that
I
> >>>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
> >>>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats
> >>>> on
> >>>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
> >>>>
> >>>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some
> >>>> circumstances. I
> >>>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for
> >>>> six
> >>>> years and I know how it performs.
> >>>>
> >>>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
> >>>>
> >>>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
> >>>> just
> >>>> to install a new radiator?
> >>>>
> >>>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down
more?
> >>>> (Water pump does not leak).
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Thanks for any tips !!!
> >>>>
> >>>> --James--
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
#155
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
You forgot collapsed or clogged hose.
Earle
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:gvSdnSaFOLwWqTHYnZ2dnUVZ_tijnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> No flow is only caused by four things. Clogged radiator, clogged block,
bad
> t-stat, bad water pump. Tell us if the heat is working. If it works well,
> it's the radiator.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message
> news:wJidnd5To_1CITbYnZ2dnUVZ_tWhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> > James wrote:
> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
stayed
> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> > running
> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> > all
> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >
> > Mike Roman responded:
> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
stayed
> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> > running
> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> > all
> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >
> >
> > I still think it would be good to verify the temp guage is really
showing
> > the correct temp. Where is the temp sensor that the guage could read
>200
> > and the coolant not burn a finger?
> >
> > But then, what do I know? I have not worked on my on vehicles for
years...
> >
> > Regards,
> > doug
> >
> >
> > "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> > news:isqdnZN7p-txfDfYnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
> >> James,
> >>
> >> My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator. No
> >> coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of the
> >> three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden
> >> hose, or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored. While
> >> it's off replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again),
flush
> >> the entire system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
> >>
> >> Hope this helps,
> >>
> >> Carl
> >>
> >>
> >> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
> >> news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> >>>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies.
> >>>No
> >>> remedy yet, this is just an update.
> >>>
> >>> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
> >>> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range,
but
> >>> five
> >>> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around
225.
> >>> I
> >>> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
> >>>
> >>> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
> >>> pressure
> >>> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is
> >>> water
> >>> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up).
I
> >>> did
> >>> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first
> >>> engine
> >>> start, I saw no water flow. None.
> >>>
> >>> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
> >>> stayed
> >>> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> >>> running
> >>> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
at
> >>> all
> >>> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >>>
> >>> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the
> >>> engine
> >>> ran for 45 mins ??
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Any further comments will be appreciated.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> --James--
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
>
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> >>> -------------------------------
> >>>
> >>> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
> >>>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
> >>>> when
> >>>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
> >>>> incline, even at very slow speed.
> >>>>
> >>>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a
traffic
> >>>> light.
> >>>>
> >>>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
> >>>> some
> >>>> at idle.
> >>>>
> >>>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that
I
> >>>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
> >>>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats
> >>>> on
> >>>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
> >>>>
> >>>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some
> >>>> circumstances. I
> >>>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for
> >>>> six
> >>>> years and I know how it performs.
> >>>>
> >>>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
> >>>>
> >>>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
> >>>> just
> >>>> to install a new radiator?
> >>>>
> >>>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down
more?
> >>>> (Water pump does not leak).
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Thanks for any tips !!!
> >>>>
> >>>> --James--
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
Earle
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:gvSdnSaFOLwWqTHYnZ2dnUVZ_tijnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> No flow is only caused by four things. Clogged radiator, clogged block,
bad
> t-stat, bad water pump. Tell us if the heat is working. If it works well,
> it's the radiator.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message
> news:wJidnd5To_1CITbYnZ2dnUVZ_tWhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> > James wrote:
> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
stayed
> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> > running
> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> > all
> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >
> > Mike Roman responded:
> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
stayed
> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> > running
> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> > all
> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >
> >
> > I still think it would be good to verify the temp guage is really
showing
> > the correct temp. Where is the temp sensor that the guage could read
>200
> > and the coolant not burn a finger?
> >
> > But then, what do I know? I have not worked on my on vehicles for
years...
> >
> > Regards,
> > doug
> >
> >
> > "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> > news:isqdnZN7p-txfDfYnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
> >> James,
> >>
> >> My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator. No
> >> coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of the
> >> three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden
> >> hose, or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored. While
> >> it's off replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again),
flush
> >> the entire system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
> >>
> >> Hope this helps,
> >>
> >> Carl
> >>
> >>
> >> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
> >> news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> >>>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies.
> >>>No
> >>> remedy yet, this is just an update.
> >>>
> >>> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
> >>> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range,
but
> >>> five
> >>> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around
225.
> >>> I
> >>> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
> >>>
> >>> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
> >>> pressure
> >>> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is
> >>> water
> >>> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up).
I
> >>> did
> >>> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first
> >>> engine
> >>> start, I saw no water flow. None.
> >>>
> >>> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
> >>> stayed
> >>> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> >>> running
> >>> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
at
> >>> all
> >>> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >>>
> >>> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the
> >>> engine
> >>> ran for 45 mins ??
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Any further comments will be appreciated.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> --James--
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
>
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> >>> -------------------------------
> >>>
> >>> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
> >>>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
> >>>> when
> >>>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
> >>>> incline, even at very slow speed.
> >>>>
> >>>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a
traffic
> >>>> light.
> >>>>
> >>>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
> >>>> some
> >>>> at idle.
> >>>>
> >>>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that
I
> >>>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
> >>>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats
> >>>> on
> >>>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
> >>>>
> >>>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some
> >>>> circumstances. I
> >>>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for
> >>>> six
> >>>> years and I know how it performs.
> >>>>
> >>>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
> >>>>
> >>>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
> >>>> just
> >>>> to install a new radiator?
> >>>>
> >>>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down
more?
> >>>> (Water pump does not leak).
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Thanks for any tips !!!
> >>>>
> >>>> --James--
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
#156
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
You forgot collapsed or clogged hose.
Earle
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:gvSdnSaFOLwWqTHYnZ2dnUVZ_tijnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> No flow is only caused by four things. Clogged radiator, clogged block,
bad
> t-stat, bad water pump. Tell us if the heat is working. If it works well,
> it's the radiator.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message
> news:wJidnd5To_1CITbYnZ2dnUVZ_tWhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> > James wrote:
> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
stayed
> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> > running
> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> > all
> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >
> > Mike Roman responded:
> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
stayed
> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> > running
> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> > all
> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >
> >
> > I still think it would be good to verify the temp guage is really
showing
> > the correct temp. Where is the temp sensor that the guage could read
>200
> > and the coolant not burn a finger?
> >
> > But then, what do I know? I have not worked on my on vehicles for
years...
> >
> > Regards,
> > doug
> >
> >
> > "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> > news:isqdnZN7p-txfDfYnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
> >> James,
> >>
> >> My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator. No
> >> coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of the
> >> three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden
> >> hose, or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored. While
> >> it's off replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again),
flush
> >> the entire system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
> >>
> >> Hope this helps,
> >>
> >> Carl
> >>
> >>
> >> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
> >> news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> >>>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies.
> >>>No
> >>> remedy yet, this is just an update.
> >>>
> >>> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
> >>> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range,
but
> >>> five
> >>> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around
225.
> >>> I
> >>> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
> >>>
> >>> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
> >>> pressure
> >>> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is
> >>> water
> >>> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up).
I
> >>> did
> >>> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first
> >>> engine
> >>> start, I saw no water flow. None.
> >>>
> >>> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
> >>> stayed
> >>> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> >>> running
> >>> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
at
> >>> all
> >>> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >>>
> >>> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the
> >>> engine
> >>> ran for 45 mins ??
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Any further comments will be appreciated.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> --James--
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
>
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> >>> -------------------------------
> >>>
> >>> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
> >>>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
> >>>> when
> >>>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
> >>>> incline, even at very slow speed.
> >>>>
> >>>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a
traffic
> >>>> light.
> >>>>
> >>>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
> >>>> some
> >>>> at idle.
> >>>>
> >>>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that
I
> >>>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
> >>>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats
> >>>> on
> >>>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
> >>>>
> >>>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some
> >>>> circumstances. I
> >>>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for
> >>>> six
> >>>> years and I know how it performs.
> >>>>
> >>>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
> >>>>
> >>>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
> >>>> just
> >>>> to install a new radiator?
> >>>>
> >>>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down
more?
> >>>> (Water pump does not leak).
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Thanks for any tips !!!
> >>>>
> >>>> --James--
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
Earle
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:gvSdnSaFOLwWqTHYnZ2dnUVZ_tijnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> No flow is only caused by four things. Clogged radiator, clogged block,
bad
> t-stat, bad water pump. Tell us if the heat is working. If it works well,
> it's the radiator.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message
> news:wJidnd5To_1CITbYnZ2dnUVZ_tWhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> > James wrote:
> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
stayed
> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> > running
> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> > all
> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >
> > Mike Roman responded:
> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
stayed
> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> > running
> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> > all
> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >
> >
> > I still think it would be good to verify the temp guage is really
showing
> > the correct temp. Where is the temp sensor that the guage could read
>200
> > and the coolant not burn a finger?
> >
> > But then, what do I know? I have not worked on my on vehicles for
years...
> >
> > Regards,
> > doug
> >
> >
> > "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> > news:isqdnZN7p-txfDfYnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
> >> James,
> >>
> >> My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator. No
> >> coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of the
> >> three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden
> >> hose, or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored. While
> >> it's off replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again),
flush
> >> the entire system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
> >>
> >> Hope this helps,
> >>
> >> Carl
> >>
> >>
> >> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
> >> news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> >>>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies.
> >>>No
> >>> remedy yet, this is just an update.
> >>>
> >>> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
> >>> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range,
but
> >>> five
> >>> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around
225.
> >>> I
> >>> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
> >>>
> >>> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
> >>> pressure
> >>> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is
> >>> water
> >>> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up).
I
> >>> did
> >>> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first
> >>> engine
> >>> start, I saw no water flow. None.
> >>>
> >>> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
> >>> stayed
> >>> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> >>> running
> >>> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
at
> >>> all
> >>> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >>>
> >>> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the
> >>> engine
> >>> ran for 45 mins ??
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Any further comments will be appreciated.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> --James--
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
>
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> >>> -------------------------------
> >>>
> >>> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
> >>>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
> >>>> when
> >>>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
> >>>> incline, even at very slow speed.
> >>>>
> >>>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a
traffic
> >>>> light.
> >>>>
> >>>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
> >>>> some
> >>>> at idle.
> >>>>
> >>>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that
I
> >>>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
> >>>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats
> >>>> on
> >>>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
> >>>>
> >>>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some
> >>>> circumstances. I
> >>>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for
> >>>> six
> >>>> years and I know how it performs.
> >>>>
> >>>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
> >>>>
> >>>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
> >>>> just
> >>>> to install a new radiator?
> >>>>
> >>>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down
more?
> >>>> (Water pump does not leak).
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Thanks for any tips !!!
> >>>>
> >>>> --James--
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
#157
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
You forgot collapsed or clogged hose.
Earle
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:gvSdnSaFOLwWqTHYnZ2dnUVZ_tijnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> No flow is only caused by four things. Clogged radiator, clogged block,
bad
> t-stat, bad water pump. Tell us if the heat is working. If it works well,
> it's the radiator.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message
> news:wJidnd5To_1CITbYnZ2dnUVZ_tWhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> > James wrote:
> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
stayed
> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> > running
> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> > all
> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >
> > Mike Roman responded:
> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
stayed
> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> > running
> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> > all
> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >
> >
> > I still think it would be good to verify the temp guage is really
showing
> > the correct temp. Where is the temp sensor that the guage could read
>200
> > and the coolant not burn a finger?
> >
> > But then, what do I know? I have not worked on my on vehicles for
years...
> >
> > Regards,
> > doug
> >
> >
> > "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> > news:isqdnZN7p-txfDfYnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
> >> James,
> >>
> >> My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator. No
> >> coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of the
> >> three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden
> >> hose, or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored. While
> >> it's off replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again),
flush
> >> the entire system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
> >>
> >> Hope this helps,
> >>
> >> Carl
> >>
> >>
> >> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
> >> news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> >>>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies.
> >>>No
> >>> remedy yet, this is just an update.
> >>>
> >>> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
> >>> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range,
but
> >>> five
> >>> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around
225.
> >>> I
> >>> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
> >>>
> >>> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
> >>> pressure
> >>> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is
> >>> water
> >>> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up).
I
> >>> did
> >>> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first
> >>> engine
> >>> start, I saw no water flow. None.
> >>>
> >>> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
> >>> stayed
> >>> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> >>> running
> >>> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
at
> >>> all
> >>> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >>>
> >>> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the
> >>> engine
> >>> ran for 45 mins ??
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Any further comments will be appreciated.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> --James--
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
>
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> >>> -------------------------------
> >>>
> >>> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
> >>>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
> >>>> when
> >>>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
> >>>> incline, even at very slow speed.
> >>>>
> >>>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a
traffic
> >>>> light.
> >>>>
> >>>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
> >>>> some
> >>>> at idle.
> >>>>
> >>>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that
I
> >>>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
> >>>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats
> >>>> on
> >>>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
> >>>>
> >>>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some
> >>>> circumstances. I
> >>>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for
> >>>> six
> >>>> years and I know how it performs.
> >>>>
> >>>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
> >>>>
> >>>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
> >>>> just
> >>>> to install a new radiator?
> >>>>
> >>>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down
more?
> >>>> (Water pump does not leak).
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Thanks for any tips !!!
> >>>>
> >>>> --James--
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
Earle
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:gvSdnSaFOLwWqTHYnZ2dnUVZ_tijnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> No flow is only caused by four things. Clogged radiator, clogged block,
bad
> t-stat, bad water pump. Tell us if the heat is working. If it works well,
> it's the radiator.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message
> news:wJidnd5To_1CITbYnZ2dnUVZ_tWhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> > James wrote:
> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
stayed
> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> > running
> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> > all
> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >
> > Mike Roman responded:
> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
stayed
> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> > running
> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> > all
> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >
> >
> > I still think it would be good to verify the temp guage is really
showing
> > the correct temp. Where is the temp sensor that the guage could read
>200
> > and the coolant not burn a finger?
> >
> > But then, what do I know? I have not worked on my on vehicles for
years...
> >
> > Regards,
> > doug
> >
> >
> > "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> > news:isqdnZN7p-txfDfYnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
> >> James,
> >>
> >> My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator. No
> >> coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of the
> >> three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden
> >> hose, or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored. While
> >> it's off replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again),
flush
> >> the entire system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
> >>
> >> Hope this helps,
> >>
> >> Carl
> >>
> >>
> >> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
> >> news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> >>>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies.
> >>>No
> >>> remedy yet, this is just an update.
> >>>
> >>> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
> >>> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range,
but
> >>> five
> >>> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around
225.
> >>> I
> >>> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
> >>>
> >>> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
> >>> pressure
> >>> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is
> >>> water
> >>> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up).
I
> >>> did
> >>> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first
> >>> engine
> >>> start, I saw no water flow. None.
> >>>
> >>> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
> >>> stayed
> >>> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> >>> running
> >>> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
at
> >>> all
> >>> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
> >>>
> >>> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the
> >>> engine
> >>> ran for 45 mins ??
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Any further comments will be appreciated.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> --James--
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
>
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> >>> -------------------------------
> >>>
> >>> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
> >>>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
> >>>> when
> >>>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
> >>>> incline, even at very slow speed.
> >>>>
> >>>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a
traffic
> >>>> light.
> >>>>
> >>>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
> >>>> some
> >>>> at idle.
> >>>>
> >>>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that
I
> >>>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
> >>>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats
> >>>> on
> >>>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
> >>>>
> >>>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some
> >>>> circumstances. I
> >>>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for
> >>>> six
> >>>> years and I know how it performs.
> >>>>
> >>>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
> >>>>
> >>>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
> >>>> just
> >>>> to install a new radiator?
> >>>>
> >>>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down
more?
> >>>> (Water pump does not leak).
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Thanks for any tips !!!
> >>>>
> >>>> --James--
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
#158
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
At idle it would be obvious if the hose was collapsed. The OP all ready said
the hoses were OK.
Carl
"Earle Horton" <earle@vascongado.usa> wrote in message
news:45ac39af$0$7835$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.co m...
> You forgot collapsed or clogged hose.
>
> Earle
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> news:gvSdnSaFOLwWqTHYnZ2dnUVZ_tijnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> No flow is only caused by four things. Clogged radiator, clogged block,
> bad
>> t-stat, bad water pump. Tell us if the heat is working. If it works well,
>> it's the radiator.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message
>> news:wJidnd5To_1CITbYnZ2dnUVZ_tWhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> > James wrote:
>> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
> stayed
>> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>> > running
>> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
>> > at
>> > all
>> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>> >
>> > Mike Roman responded:
>> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
> stayed
>> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>> > running
>> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
>> > at
>> > all
>> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>> >
>> >
>> > I still think it would be good to verify the temp guage is really
> showing
>> > the correct temp. Where is the temp sensor that the guage could read
>>200
>> > and the coolant not burn a finger?
>> >
>> > But then, what do I know? I have not worked on my on vehicles for
> years...
>> >
>> > Regards,
>> > doug
>> >
>> >
>> > "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>> > news:isqdnZN7p-txfDfYnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
>> >> James,
>> >>
>> >> My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator.
>> >> No
>> >> coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of
>> >> the
>> >> three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden
>> >> hose, or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored.
>> >> While
>> >> it's off replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again),
> flush
>> >> the entire system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
>> >>
>> >> Hope this helps,
>> >>
>> >> Carl
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>> >> news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> >>>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies.
>> >>>No
>> >>> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>> >>>
>> >>> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
>> >>> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range,
> but
>> >>> five
>> >>> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around
> 225.
>> >>> I
>> >>> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>> >>>
>> >>> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
>> >>> pressure
>> >>> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there
>> >>> is
>> >>> water
>> >>> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up).
> I
>> >>> did
>> >>> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first
>> >>> engine
>> >>> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>> >>>
>> >>> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
>> >>> stayed
>> >>> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>> >>> running
>> >>> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
> at
>> >>> all
>> >>> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>> >>>
>> >>> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the
>> >>> engine
>> >>> ran for 45 mins ??
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> --James--
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>>
>>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----
>> >>> -------------------------------
>> >>>
>> >>> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
>> >>>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235
>> >>>> degrees
>> >>>> when
>> >>>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
>> >>>> incline, even at very slow speed.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a
> traffic
>> >>>> light.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
>> >>>> some
>> >>>> at idle.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR
>> >>>> that
> I
>> >>>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a
>> >>>> defective
>> >>>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it
>> >>>> overheats
>> >>>> on
>> >>>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some
>> >>>> circumstances. I
>> >>>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car
>> >>>> for
>> >>>> six
>> >>>> years and I know how it performs.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>> >>>>
>> >>>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it
>> >>>> best
>> >>>> just
>> >>>> to install a new radiator?
>> >>>>
>> >>>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down
> more?
>> >>>> (Water pump does not leak).
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Thanks for any tips !!!
>> >>>>
>> >>>> --James--
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
the hoses were OK.
Carl
"Earle Horton" <earle@vascongado.usa> wrote in message
news:45ac39af$0$7835$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.co m...
> You forgot collapsed or clogged hose.
>
> Earle
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> news:gvSdnSaFOLwWqTHYnZ2dnUVZ_tijnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> No flow is only caused by four things. Clogged radiator, clogged block,
> bad
>> t-stat, bad water pump. Tell us if the heat is working. If it works well,
>> it's the radiator.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message
>> news:wJidnd5To_1CITbYnZ2dnUVZ_tWhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> > James wrote:
>> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
> stayed
>> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>> > running
>> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
>> > at
>> > all
>> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>> >
>> > Mike Roman responded:
>> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
> stayed
>> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>> > running
>> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
>> > at
>> > all
>> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>> >
>> >
>> > I still think it would be good to verify the temp guage is really
> showing
>> > the correct temp. Where is the temp sensor that the guage could read
>>200
>> > and the coolant not burn a finger?
>> >
>> > But then, what do I know? I have not worked on my on vehicles for
> years...
>> >
>> > Regards,
>> > doug
>> >
>> >
>> > "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>> > news:isqdnZN7p-txfDfYnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
>> >> James,
>> >>
>> >> My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator.
>> >> No
>> >> coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of
>> >> the
>> >> three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden
>> >> hose, or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored.
>> >> While
>> >> it's off replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again),
> flush
>> >> the entire system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
>> >>
>> >> Hope this helps,
>> >>
>> >> Carl
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>> >> news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> >>>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies.
>> >>>No
>> >>> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>> >>>
>> >>> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
>> >>> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range,
> but
>> >>> five
>> >>> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around
> 225.
>> >>> I
>> >>> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>> >>>
>> >>> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
>> >>> pressure
>> >>> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there
>> >>> is
>> >>> water
>> >>> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up).
> I
>> >>> did
>> >>> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first
>> >>> engine
>> >>> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>> >>>
>> >>> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
>> >>> stayed
>> >>> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>> >>> running
>> >>> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
> at
>> >>> all
>> >>> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>> >>>
>> >>> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the
>> >>> engine
>> >>> ran for 45 mins ??
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> --James--
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>>
>>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----
>> >>> -------------------------------
>> >>>
>> >>> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
>> >>>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235
>> >>>> degrees
>> >>>> when
>> >>>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
>> >>>> incline, even at very slow speed.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a
> traffic
>> >>>> light.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
>> >>>> some
>> >>>> at idle.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR
>> >>>> that
> I
>> >>>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a
>> >>>> defective
>> >>>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it
>> >>>> overheats
>> >>>> on
>> >>>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some
>> >>>> circumstances. I
>> >>>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car
>> >>>> for
>> >>>> six
>> >>>> years and I know how it performs.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>> >>>>
>> >>>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it
>> >>>> best
>> >>>> just
>> >>>> to install a new radiator?
>> >>>>
>> >>>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down
> more?
>> >>>> (Water pump does not leak).
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Thanks for any tips !!!
>> >>>>
>> >>>> --James--
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
#159
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
At idle it would be obvious if the hose was collapsed. The OP all ready said
the hoses were OK.
Carl
"Earle Horton" <earle@vascongado.usa> wrote in message
news:45ac39af$0$7835$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.co m...
> You forgot collapsed or clogged hose.
>
> Earle
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> news:gvSdnSaFOLwWqTHYnZ2dnUVZ_tijnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> No flow is only caused by four things. Clogged radiator, clogged block,
> bad
>> t-stat, bad water pump. Tell us if the heat is working. If it works well,
>> it's the radiator.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message
>> news:wJidnd5To_1CITbYnZ2dnUVZ_tWhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> > James wrote:
>> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
> stayed
>> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>> > running
>> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
>> > at
>> > all
>> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>> >
>> > Mike Roman responded:
>> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
> stayed
>> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>> > running
>> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
>> > at
>> > all
>> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>> >
>> >
>> > I still think it would be good to verify the temp guage is really
> showing
>> > the correct temp. Where is the temp sensor that the guage could read
>>200
>> > and the coolant not burn a finger?
>> >
>> > But then, what do I know? I have not worked on my on vehicles for
> years...
>> >
>> > Regards,
>> > doug
>> >
>> >
>> > "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>> > news:isqdnZN7p-txfDfYnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
>> >> James,
>> >>
>> >> My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator.
>> >> No
>> >> coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of
>> >> the
>> >> three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden
>> >> hose, or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored.
>> >> While
>> >> it's off replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again),
> flush
>> >> the entire system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
>> >>
>> >> Hope this helps,
>> >>
>> >> Carl
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>> >> news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> >>>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies.
>> >>>No
>> >>> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>> >>>
>> >>> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
>> >>> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range,
> but
>> >>> five
>> >>> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around
> 225.
>> >>> I
>> >>> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>> >>>
>> >>> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
>> >>> pressure
>> >>> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there
>> >>> is
>> >>> water
>> >>> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up).
> I
>> >>> did
>> >>> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first
>> >>> engine
>> >>> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>> >>>
>> >>> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
>> >>> stayed
>> >>> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>> >>> running
>> >>> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
> at
>> >>> all
>> >>> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>> >>>
>> >>> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the
>> >>> engine
>> >>> ran for 45 mins ??
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> --James--
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>>
>>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----
>> >>> -------------------------------
>> >>>
>> >>> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
>> >>>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235
>> >>>> degrees
>> >>>> when
>> >>>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
>> >>>> incline, even at very slow speed.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a
> traffic
>> >>>> light.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
>> >>>> some
>> >>>> at idle.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR
>> >>>> that
> I
>> >>>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a
>> >>>> defective
>> >>>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it
>> >>>> overheats
>> >>>> on
>> >>>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some
>> >>>> circumstances. I
>> >>>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car
>> >>>> for
>> >>>> six
>> >>>> years and I know how it performs.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>> >>>>
>> >>>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it
>> >>>> best
>> >>>> just
>> >>>> to install a new radiator?
>> >>>>
>> >>>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down
> more?
>> >>>> (Water pump does not leak).
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Thanks for any tips !!!
>> >>>>
>> >>>> --James--
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
the hoses were OK.
Carl
"Earle Horton" <earle@vascongado.usa> wrote in message
news:45ac39af$0$7835$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.co m...
> You forgot collapsed or clogged hose.
>
> Earle
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> news:gvSdnSaFOLwWqTHYnZ2dnUVZ_tijnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> No flow is only caused by four things. Clogged radiator, clogged block,
> bad
>> t-stat, bad water pump. Tell us if the heat is working. If it works well,
>> it's the radiator.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message
>> news:wJidnd5To_1CITbYnZ2dnUVZ_tWhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> > James wrote:
>> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
> stayed
>> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>> > running
>> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
>> > at
>> > all
>> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>> >
>> > Mike Roman responded:
>> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
> stayed
>> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>> > running
>> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
>> > at
>> > all
>> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>> >
>> >
>> > I still think it would be good to verify the temp guage is really
> showing
>> > the correct temp. Where is the temp sensor that the guage could read
>>200
>> > and the coolant not burn a finger?
>> >
>> > But then, what do I know? I have not worked on my on vehicles for
> years...
>> >
>> > Regards,
>> > doug
>> >
>> >
>> > "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>> > news:isqdnZN7p-txfDfYnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
>> >> James,
>> >>
>> >> My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator.
>> >> No
>> >> coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of
>> >> the
>> >> three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden
>> >> hose, or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored.
>> >> While
>> >> it's off replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again),
> flush
>> >> the entire system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
>> >>
>> >> Hope this helps,
>> >>
>> >> Carl
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>> >> news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> >>>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies.
>> >>>No
>> >>> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>> >>>
>> >>> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
>> >>> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range,
> but
>> >>> five
>> >>> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around
> 225.
>> >>> I
>> >>> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>> >>>
>> >>> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
>> >>> pressure
>> >>> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there
>> >>> is
>> >>> water
>> >>> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up).
> I
>> >>> did
>> >>> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first
>> >>> engine
>> >>> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>> >>>
>> >>> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
>> >>> stayed
>> >>> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>> >>> running
>> >>> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
> at
>> >>> all
>> >>> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>> >>>
>> >>> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the
>> >>> engine
>> >>> ran for 45 mins ??
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> --James--
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>>
>>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----
>> >>> -------------------------------
>> >>>
>> >>> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
>> >>>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235
>> >>>> degrees
>> >>>> when
>> >>>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
>> >>>> incline, even at very slow speed.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a
> traffic
>> >>>> light.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
>> >>>> some
>> >>>> at idle.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR
>> >>>> that
> I
>> >>>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a
>> >>>> defective
>> >>>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it
>> >>>> overheats
>> >>>> on
>> >>>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some
>> >>>> circumstances. I
>> >>>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car
>> >>>> for
>> >>>> six
>> >>>> years and I know how it performs.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>> >>>>
>> >>>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it
>> >>>> best
>> >>>> just
>> >>>> to install a new radiator?
>> >>>>
>> >>>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down
> more?
>> >>>> (Water pump does not leak).
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Thanks for any tips !!!
>> >>>>
>> >>>> --James--
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
#160
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
At idle it would be obvious if the hose was collapsed. The OP all ready said
the hoses were OK.
Carl
"Earle Horton" <earle@vascongado.usa> wrote in message
news:45ac39af$0$7835$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.co m...
> You forgot collapsed or clogged hose.
>
> Earle
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> news:gvSdnSaFOLwWqTHYnZ2dnUVZ_tijnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> No flow is only caused by four things. Clogged radiator, clogged block,
> bad
>> t-stat, bad water pump. Tell us if the heat is working. If it works well,
>> it's the radiator.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message
>> news:wJidnd5To_1CITbYnZ2dnUVZ_tWhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> > James wrote:
>> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
> stayed
>> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>> > running
>> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
>> > at
>> > all
>> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>> >
>> > Mike Roman responded:
>> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
> stayed
>> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>> > running
>> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
>> > at
>> > all
>> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>> >
>> >
>> > I still think it would be good to verify the temp guage is really
> showing
>> > the correct temp. Where is the temp sensor that the guage could read
>>200
>> > and the coolant not burn a finger?
>> >
>> > But then, what do I know? I have not worked on my on vehicles for
> years...
>> >
>> > Regards,
>> > doug
>> >
>> >
>> > "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>> > news:isqdnZN7p-txfDfYnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
>> >> James,
>> >>
>> >> My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator.
>> >> No
>> >> coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of
>> >> the
>> >> three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden
>> >> hose, or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored.
>> >> While
>> >> it's off replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again),
> flush
>> >> the entire system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
>> >>
>> >> Hope this helps,
>> >>
>> >> Carl
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>> >> news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> >>>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies.
>> >>>No
>> >>> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>> >>>
>> >>> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
>> >>> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range,
> but
>> >>> five
>> >>> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around
> 225.
>> >>> I
>> >>> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>> >>>
>> >>> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
>> >>> pressure
>> >>> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there
>> >>> is
>> >>> water
>> >>> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up).
> I
>> >>> did
>> >>> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first
>> >>> engine
>> >>> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>> >>>
>> >>> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
>> >>> stayed
>> >>> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>> >>> running
>> >>> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
> at
>> >>> all
>> >>> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>> >>>
>> >>> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the
>> >>> engine
>> >>> ran for 45 mins ??
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> --James--
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>>
>>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----
>> >>> -------------------------------
>> >>>
>> >>> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
>> >>>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235
>> >>>> degrees
>> >>>> when
>> >>>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
>> >>>> incline, even at very slow speed.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a
> traffic
>> >>>> light.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
>> >>>> some
>> >>>> at idle.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR
>> >>>> that
> I
>> >>>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a
>> >>>> defective
>> >>>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it
>> >>>> overheats
>> >>>> on
>> >>>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some
>> >>>> circumstances. I
>> >>>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car
>> >>>> for
>> >>>> six
>> >>>> years and I know how it performs.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>> >>>>
>> >>>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it
>> >>>> best
>> >>>> just
>> >>>> to install a new radiator?
>> >>>>
>> >>>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down
> more?
>> >>>> (Water pump does not leak).
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Thanks for any tips !!!
>> >>>>
>> >>>> --James--
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
the hoses were OK.
Carl
"Earle Horton" <earle@vascongado.usa> wrote in message
news:45ac39af$0$7835$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.co m...
> You forgot collapsed or clogged hose.
>
> Earle
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
> news:gvSdnSaFOLwWqTHYnZ2dnUVZ_tijnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> No flow is only caused by four things. Clogged radiator, clogged block,
> bad
>> t-stat, bad water pump. Tell us if the heat is working. If it works well,
>> it's the radiator.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "Doug" <nono@nono.com> wrote in message
>> news:wJidnd5To_1CITbYnZ2dnUVZ_tWhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> > James wrote:
>> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
> stayed
>> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>> > running
>> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
>> > at
>> > all
>> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>> >
>> > Mike Roman responded:
>> > I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
> stayed
>> > there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>> > running
>> > at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
>> > at
>> > all
>> > hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>> >
>> >
>> > I still think it would be good to verify the temp guage is really
> showing
>> > the correct temp. Where is the temp sensor that the guage could read
>>200
>> > and the coolant not burn a finger?
>> >
>> > But then, what do I know? I have not worked on my on vehicles for
> years...
>> >
>> > Regards,
>> > doug
>> >
>> >
>> > "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>> > news:isqdnZN7p-txfDfYnZ2dnUVZ_vWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
>> >> James,
>> >>
>> >> My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator.
>> >> No
>> >> coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of
>> >> the
>> >> three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden
>> >> hose, or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored.
>> >> While
>> >> it's off replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again),
> flush
>> >> the entire system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
>> >>
>> >> Hope this helps,
>> >>
>> >> Carl
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
>> >> news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> >>>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies.
>> >>>No
>> >>> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>> >>>
>> >>> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
>> >>> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range,
> but
>> >>> five
>> >>> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around
> 225.
>> >>> I
>> >>> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>> >>>
>> >>> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
>> >>> pressure
>> >>> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there
>> >>> is
>> >>> water
>> >>> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up).
> I
>> >>> did
>> >>> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first
>> >>> engine
>> >>> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>> >>>
>> >>> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and
>> >>> stayed
>> >>> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
>> >>> running
>> >>> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not
> at
>> >>> all
>> >>> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>> >>>
>> >>> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the
>> >>> engine
>> >>> ran for 45 mins ??
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> --James--
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>>
>>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----
>> >>> -------------------------------
>> >>>
>> >>> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
>> >>>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235
>> >>>> degrees
>> >>>> when
>> >>>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
>> >>>> incline, even at very slow speed.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a
> traffic
>> >>>> light.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating
>> >>>> some
>> >>>> at idle.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR
>> >>>> that
> I
>> >>>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a
>> >>>> defective
>> >>>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it
>> >>>> overheats
>> >>>> on
>> >>>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some
>> >>>> circumstances. I
>> >>>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car
>> >>>> for
>> >>>> six
>> >>>> years and I know how it performs.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>> >>>>
>> >>>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it
>> >>>> best
>> >>>> just
>> >>>> to install a new radiator?
>> >>>>
>> >>>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down
> more?
>> >>>> (Water pump does not leak).
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Thanks for any tips !!!
>> >>>>
>> >>>> --James--
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>