Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
#111
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
James proclaimed:
> Mike, it is the original water pump. SnoMan, yes, the fan does run at
> idle, with temp at 205.
>
> Yes, I do have tow package, and the coolant is full. It is up to the very
> top of the neck when I take the rad cap off. There is NO circulation of
> the coolant, and it is warm, but not really HOT, even when the gauge is at
> 205.
Cheap cooking thermometer will get the real temperature, but all
symptoms so far say either your thermostat is not opening or your water
pump is not working overly well or there is a blockage.
>
> I think my next step is to take it to a rad shop and allow them to take the
> rad out and test it.
If you go to that expense, might as well replace it with an aftermarket,
but that sure seems like way too many dollars spent rather than
troubleshooting.
A *good* cooling shop would have already checked your water pump for
flow and your thermostat for opening and your system for blockages that
impede flow.
Or a very small head gasket problem that lets exhaust into the fluid but
only at higher engine speeds [not that probable from your symptoms so far].
>
> Yes, I could have another "bad" (new) thermostat, but I don't know how
> many times I should try that. (I am not a mechanic, so I can't do that
> myself, so I have to leave it for a day when I have work done).
As a diagnostic, remove the thermostat. Yes, your engine may warm up
slowly and fail emissions during warm up, but at least you've removed
the easy part of determining if the thermostat is bad as installed.
If you don't see flow with the thermostat removed, your water pump is
bad or you have a blockage.
You can test the thermostat while it is out by putting it in water and
slowly heating the water to see if the thermostat opens. Again a cheap
cooking thermometer works.
>
> Coming from the viewpoint only of a lay person (non-mechanic) I just doubt
> it is a water pump or fan clutch problem. Could be another bad thermostat,
> OR a flow problem in the rad system.
It really isn't that difficult to remove possibilities, but it works
better if it is done scientifically rather than philosophically--which
isn't doing that good so far.
>
>
> It just seems to me that if the car does fine at idle (can run all day
> at a redlight and not heat up), but heats some at 75mph and heats a LOT on
> long incline, no enough coolant is circulating around the engine. Again,
> this is just from a "lay" person.
If you let it idle and it doesn't overheat, you should still have
coolant going thru the radiator. Your fan should also be cycling.
If your coolant isn't flowing [which is admittedly incompatible with
many of the symptoms proposed] the engine heats up...which may not be
obvious if the coolant cannot hit the temperature sensot. A second
means of measuring coolant temp is a good idea... the radiator coolant
should heat up but measure it, don't assume.
Oddball ignition can heat an engine at higher load as can a head gasket
leak, but both of those tend to have other symptoms and I'd hope your
PCU would throw a code on ignition retard.
Heating at 75 and on inclines usually mean someone has replace a major
part of the cooling system without quite knowing what they are doing.
>
> I do appreciate all of the comments though, thank you all!!
>
>
> --James--
>
>
> Mike, it is the original water pump. SnoMan, yes, the fan does run at
> idle, with temp at 205.
>
> Yes, I do have tow package, and the coolant is full. It is up to the very
> top of the neck when I take the rad cap off. There is NO circulation of
> the coolant, and it is warm, but not really HOT, even when the gauge is at
> 205.
Cheap cooking thermometer will get the real temperature, but all
symptoms so far say either your thermostat is not opening or your water
pump is not working overly well or there is a blockage.
>
> I think my next step is to take it to a rad shop and allow them to take the
> rad out and test it.
If you go to that expense, might as well replace it with an aftermarket,
but that sure seems like way too many dollars spent rather than
troubleshooting.
A *good* cooling shop would have already checked your water pump for
flow and your thermostat for opening and your system for blockages that
impede flow.
Or a very small head gasket problem that lets exhaust into the fluid but
only at higher engine speeds [not that probable from your symptoms so far].
>
> Yes, I could have another "bad" (new) thermostat, but I don't know how
> many times I should try that. (I am not a mechanic, so I can't do that
> myself, so I have to leave it for a day when I have work done).
As a diagnostic, remove the thermostat. Yes, your engine may warm up
slowly and fail emissions during warm up, but at least you've removed
the easy part of determining if the thermostat is bad as installed.
If you don't see flow with the thermostat removed, your water pump is
bad or you have a blockage.
You can test the thermostat while it is out by putting it in water and
slowly heating the water to see if the thermostat opens. Again a cheap
cooking thermometer works.
>
> Coming from the viewpoint only of a lay person (non-mechanic) I just doubt
> it is a water pump or fan clutch problem. Could be another bad thermostat,
> OR a flow problem in the rad system.
It really isn't that difficult to remove possibilities, but it works
better if it is done scientifically rather than philosophically--which
isn't doing that good so far.
>
>
> It just seems to me that if the car does fine at idle (can run all day
> at a redlight and not heat up), but heats some at 75mph and heats a LOT on
> long incline, no enough coolant is circulating around the engine. Again,
> this is just from a "lay" person.
If you let it idle and it doesn't overheat, you should still have
coolant going thru the radiator. Your fan should also be cycling.
If your coolant isn't flowing [which is admittedly incompatible with
many of the symptoms proposed] the engine heats up...which may not be
obvious if the coolant cannot hit the temperature sensot. A second
means of measuring coolant temp is a good idea... the radiator coolant
should heat up but measure it, don't assume.
Oddball ignition can heat an engine at higher load as can a head gasket
leak, but both of those tend to have other symptoms and I'd hope your
PCU would throw a code on ignition retard.
Heating at 75 and on inclines usually mean someone has replace a major
part of the cooling system without quite knowing what they are doing.
>
> I do appreciate all of the comments though, thank you all!!
>
>
> --James--
>
>
#112
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
James proclaimed:
> Mike, it is the original water pump. SnoMan, yes, the fan does run at
> idle, with temp at 205.
>
> Yes, I do have tow package, and the coolant is full. It is up to the very
> top of the neck when I take the rad cap off. There is NO circulation of
> the coolant, and it is warm, but not really HOT, even when the gauge is at
> 205.
Cheap cooking thermometer will get the real temperature, but all
symptoms so far say either your thermostat is not opening or your water
pump is not working overly well or there is a blockage.
>
> I think my next step is to take it to a rad shop and allow them to take the
> rad out and test it.
If you go to that expense, might as well replace it with an aftermarket,
but that sure seems like way too many dollars spent rather than
troubleshooting.
A *good* cooling shop would have already checked your water pump for
flow and your thermostat for opening and your system for blockages that
impede flow.
Or a very small head gasket problem that lets exhaust into the fluid but
only at higher engine speeds [not that probable from your symptoms so far].
>
> Yes, I could have another "bad" (new) thermostat, but I don't know how
> many times I should try that. (I am not a mechanic, so I can't do that
> myself, so I have to leave it for a day when I have work done).
As a diagnostic, remove the thermostat. Yes, your engine may warm up
slowly and fail emissions during warm up, but at least you've removed
the easy part of determining if the thermostat is bad as installed.
If you don't see flow with the thermostat removed, your water pump is
bad or you have a blockage.
You can test the thermostat while it is out by putting it in water and
slowly heating the water to see if the thermostat opens. Again a cheap
cooking thermometer works.
>
> Coming from the viewpoint only of a lay person (non-mechanic) I just doubt
> it is a water pump or fan clutch problem. Could be another bad thermostat,
> OR a flow problem in the rad system.
It really isn't that difficult to remove possibilities, but it works
better if it is done scientifically rather than philosophically--which
isn't doing that good so far.
>
>
> It just seems to me that if the car does fine at idle (can run all day
> at a redlight and not heat up), but heats some at 75mph and heats a LOT on
> long incline, no enough coolant is circulating around the engine. Again,
> this is just from a "lay" person.
If you let it idle and it doesn't overheat, you should still have
coolant going thru the radiator. Your fan should also be cycling.
If your coolant isn't flowing [which is admittedly incompatible with
many of the symptoms proposed] the engine heats up...which may not be
obvious if the coolant cannot hit the temperature sensot. A second
means of measuring coolant temp is a good idea... the radiator coolant
should heat up but measure it, don't assume.
Oddball ignition can heat an engine at higher load as can a head gasket
leak, but both of those tend to have other symptoms and I'd hope your
PCU would throw a code on ignition retard.
Heating at 75 and on inclines usually mean someone has replace a major
part of the cooling system without quite knowing what they are doing.
>
> I do appreciate all of the comments though, thank you all!!
>
>
> --James--
>
>
> Mike, it is the original water pump. SnoMan, yes, the fan does run at
> idle, with temp at 205.
>
> Yes, I do have tow package, and the coolant is full. It is up to the very
> top of the neck when I take the rad cap off. There is NO circulation of
> the coolant, and it is warm, but not really HOT, even when the gauge is at
> 205.
Cheap cooking thermometer will get the real temperature, but all
symptoms so far say either your thermostat is not opening or your water
pump is not working overly well or there is a blockage.
>
> I think my next step is to take it to a rad shop and allow them to take the
> rad out and test it.
If you go to that expense, might as well replace it with an aftermarket,
but that sure seems like way too many dollars spent rather than
troubleshooting.
A *good* cooling shop would have already checked your water pump for
flow and your thermostat for opening and your system for blockages that
impede flow.
Or a very small head gasket problem that lets exhaust into the fluid but
only at higher engine speeds [not that probable from your symptoms so far].
>
> Yes, I could have another "bad" (new) thermostat, but I don't know how
> many times I should try that. (I am not a mechanic, so I can't do that
> myself, so I have to leave it for a day when I have work done).
As a diagnostic, remove the thermostat. Yes, your engine may warm up
slowly and fail emissions during warm up, but at least you've removed
the easy part of determining if the thermostat is bad as installed.
If you don't see flow with the thermostat removed, your water pump is
bad or you have a blockage.
You can test the thermostat while it is out by putting it in water and
slowly heating the water to see if the thermostat opens. Again a cheap
cooking thermometer works.
>
> Coming from the viewpoint only of a lay person (non-mechanic) I just doubt
> it is a water pump or fan clutch problem. Could be another bad thermostat,
> OR a flow problem in the rad system.
It really isn't that difficult to remove possibilities, but it works
better if it is done scientifically rather than philosophically--which
isn't doing that good so far.
>
>
> It just seems to me that if the car does fine at idle (can run all day
> at a redlight and not heat up), but heats some at 75mph and heats a LOT on
> long incline, no enough coolant is circulating around the engine. Again,
> this is just from a "lay" person.
If you let it idle and it doesn't overheat, you should still have
coolant going thru the radiator. Your fan should also be cycling.
If your coolant isn't flowing [which is admittedly incompatible with
many of the symptoms proposed] the engine heats up...which may not be
obvious if the coolant cannot hit the temperature sensot. A second
means of measuring coolant temp is a good idea... the radiator coolant
should heat up but measure it, don't assume.
Oddball ignition can heat an engine at higher load as can a head gasket
leak, but both of those tend to have other symptoms and I'd hope your
PCU would throw a code on ignition retard.
Heating at 75 and on inclines usually mean someone has replace a major
part of the cooling system without quite knowing what they are doing.
>
> I do appreciate all of the comments though, thank you all!!
>
>
> --James--
>
>
#113
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
James proclaimed:
> Mike, it is the original water pump. SnoMan, yes, the fan does run at
> idle, with temp at 205.
>
> Yes, I do have tow package, and the coolant is full. It is up to the very
> top of the neck when I take the rad cap off. There is NO circulation of
> the coolant, and it is warm, but not really HOT, even when the gauge is at
> 205.
Cheap cooking thermometer will get the real temperature, but all
symptoms so far say either your thermostat is not opening or your water
pump is not working overly well or there is a blockage.
>
> I think my next step is to take it to a rad shop and allow them to take the
> rad out and test it.
If you go to that expense, might as well replace it with an aftermarket,
but that sure seems like way too many dollars spent rather than
troubleshooting.
A *good* cooling shop would have already checked your water pump for
flow and your thermostat for opening and your system for blockages that
impede flow.
Or a very small head gasket problem that lets exhaust into the fluid but
only at higher engine speeds [not that probable from your symptoms so far].
>
> Yes, I could have another "bad" (new) thermostat, but I don't know how
> many times I should try that. (I am not a mechanic, so I can't do that
> myself, so I have to leave it for a day when I have work done).
As a diagnostic, remove the thermostat. Yes, your engine may warm up
slowly and fail emissions during warm up, but at least you've removed
the easy part of determining if the thermostat is bad as installed.
If you don't see flow with the thermostat removed, your water pump is
bad or you have a blockage.
You can test the thermostat while it is out by putting it in water and
slowly heating the water to see if the thermostat opens. Again a cheap
cooking thermometer works.
>
> Coming from the viewpoint only of a lay person (non-mechanic) I just doubt
> it is a water pump or fan clutch problem. Could be another bad thermostat,
> OR a flow problem in the rad system.
It really isn't that difficult to remove possibilities, but it works
better if it is done scientifically rather than philosophically--which
isn't doing that good so far.
>
>
> It just seems to me that if the car does fine at idle (can run all day
> at a redlight and not heat up), but heats some at 75mph and heats a LOT on
> long incline, no enough coolant is circulating around the engine. Again,
> this is just from a "lay" person.
If you let it idle and it doesn't overheat, you should still have
coolant going thru the radiator. Your fan should also be cycling.
If your coolant isn't flowing [which is admittedly incompatible with
many of the symptoms proposed] the engine heats up...which may not be
obvious if the coolant cannot hit the temperature sensot. A second
means of measuring coolant temp is a good idea... the radiator coolant
should heat up but measure it, don't assume.
Oddball ignition can heat an engine at higher load as can a head gasket
leak, but both of those tend to have other symptoms and I'd hope your
PCU would throw a code on ignition retard.
Heating at 75 and on inclines usually mean someone has replace a major
part of the cooling system without quite knowing what they are doing.
>
> I do appreciate all of the comments though, thank you all!!
>
>
> --James--
>
>
> Mike, it is the original water pump. SnoMan, yes, the fan does run at
> idle, with temp at 205.
>
> Yes, I do have tow package, and the coolant is full. It is up to the very
> top of the neck when I take the rad cap off. There is NO circulation of
> the coolant, and it is warm, but not really HOT, even when the gauge is at
> 205.
Cheap cooking thermometer will get the real temperature, but all
symptoms so far say either your thermostat is not opening or your water
pump is not working overly well or there is a blockage.
>
> I think my next step is to take it to a rad shop and allow them to take the
> rad out and test it.
If you go to that expense, might as well replace it with an aftermarket,
but that sure seems like way too many dollars spent rather than
troubleshooting.
A *good* cooling shop would have already checked your water pump for
flow and your thermostat for opening and your system for blockages that
impede flow.
Or a very small head gasket problem that lets exhaust into the fluid but
only at higher engine speeds [not that probable from your symptoms so far].
>
> Yes, I could have another "bad" (new) thermostat, but I don't know how
> many times I should try that. (I am not a mechanic, so I can't do that
> myself, so I have to leave it for a day when I have work done).
As a diagnostic, remove the thermostat. Yes, your engine may warm up
slowly and fail emissions during warm up, but at least you've removed
the easy part of determining if the thermostat is bad as installed.
If you don't see flow with the thermostat removed, your water pump is
bad or you have a blockage.
You can test the thermostat while it is out by putting it in water and
slowly heating the water to see if the thermostat opens. Again a cheap
cooking thermometer works.
>
> Coming from the viewpoint only of a lay person (non-mechanic) I just doubt
> it is a water pump or fan clutch problem. Could be another bad thermostat,
> OR a flow problem in the rad system.
It really isn't that difficult to remove possibilities, but it works
better if it is done scientifically rather than philosophically--which
isn't doing that good so far.
>
>
> It just seems to me that if the car does fine at idle (can run all day
> at a redlight and not heat up), but heats some at 75mph and heats a LOT on
> long incline, no enough coolant is circulating around the engine. Again,
> this is just from a "lay" person.
If you let it idle and it doesn't overheat, you should still have
coolant going thru the radiator. Your fan should also be cycling.
If your coolant isn't flowing [which is admittedly incompatible with
many of the symptoms proposed] the engine heats up...which may not be
obvious if the coolant cannot hit the temperature sensot. A second
means of measuring coolant temp is a good idea... the radiator coolant
should heat up but measure it, don't assume.
Oddball ignition can heat an engine at higher load as can a head gasket
leak, but both of those tend to have other symptoms and I'd hope your
PCU would throw a code on ignition retard.
Heating at 75 and on inclines usually mean someone has replace a major
part of the cooling system without quite knowing what they are doing.
>
> I do appreciate all of the comments though, thank you all!!
>
>
> --James--
>
>
#114
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
reboot, thank you for the very nice review !!
You and one other chap mentioned a possible lower hose collapse. That
suggestion had been made before, and I will add it to my list as I sort
through this.
Thanks again to all !!
--james--
You and one other chap mentioned a possible lower hose collapse. That
suggestion had been made before, and I will add it to my list as I sort
through this.
Thanks again to all !!
--james--
#115
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
reboot, thank you for the very nice review !!
You and one other chap mentioned a possible lower hose collapse. That
suggestion had been made before, and I will add it to my list as I sort
through this.
Thanks again to all !!
--james--
You and one other chap mentioned a possible lower hose collapse. That
suggestion had been made before, and I will add it to my list as I sort
through this.
Thanks again to all !!
--james--
#116
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
reboot, thank you for the very nice review !!
You and one other chap mentioned a possible lower hose collapse. That
suggestion had been made before, and I will add it to my list as I sort
through this.
Thanks again to all !!
--james--
You and one other chap mentioned a possible lower hose collapse. That
suggestion had been made before, and I will add it to my list as I sort
through this.
Thanks again to all !!
--james--
#117
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
reboot, thank you for the very nice review !!
You and one other chap mentioned a possible lower hose collapse. That
suggestion had been made before, and I will add it to my list as I sort
through this.
Thanks again to all !!
--james--
You and one other chap mentioned a possible lower hose collapse. That
suggestion had been made before, and I will add it to my list as I sort
through this.
Thanks again to all !!
--james--
#118
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
On Sun, 14 Jan 2007 12:36:16 -0500, "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com>
wrote:
> SnoMan, yes, the fan does run atidle, with temp at 205.
They usually do at a idle warm. What happen when the RPM goes up for
1500 RPM or more warm. THe Jeep I had heating problems with 15 years
arond "worked" at a idle too but not at higher RPM's when needed
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
wrote:
> SnoMan, yes, the fan does run atidle, with temp at 205.
They usually do at a idle warm. What happen when the RPM goes up for
1500 RPM or more warm. THe Jeep I had heating problems with 15 years
arond "worked" at a idle too but not at higher RPM's when needed
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
#119
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
On Sun, 14 Jan 2007 12:36:16 -0500, "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com>
wrote:
> SnoMan, yes, the fan does run atidle, with temp at 205.
They usually do at a idle warm. What happen when the RPM goes up for
1500 RPM or more warm. THe Jeep I had heating problems with 15 years
arond "worked" at a idle too but not at higher RPM's when needed
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
wrote:
> SnoMan, yes, the fan does run atidle, with temp at 205.
They usually do at a idle warm. What happen when the RPM goes up for
1500 RPM or more warm. THe Jeep I had heating problems with 15 years
arond "worked" at a idle too but not at higher RPM's when needed
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
#120
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
On Sun, 14 Jan 2007 12:36:16 -0500, "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com>
wrote:
> SnoMan, yes, the fan does run atidle, with temp at 205.
They usually do at a idle warm. What happen when the RPM goes up for
1500 RPM or more warm. THe Jeep I had heating problems with 15 years
arond "worked" at a idle too but not at higher RPM's when needed
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
wrote:
> SnoMan, yes, the fan does run atidle, with temp at 205.
They usually do at a idle warm. What happen when the RPM goes up for
1500 RPM or more warm. THe Jeep I had heating problems with 15 years
arond "worked" at a idle too but not at higher RPM's when needed
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com