flat towing instructions
01-29-2005, 08:16 PM
#61
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: flat towing instructions
That's cool, wait until you see your Grandkids' Jeeps. You'll be
there before you know it. :-)
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> http://wolverine4wd.org/rigs/matt_photos/IMG_2309.JPG
>
> Tow vehicle 02 Ford F250 V10.
>
> I was able to get 3 jeeps on this trailer! :-)
there before you know it. :-)
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> http://wolverine4wd.org/rigs/matt_photos/IMG_2309.JPG
>
> Tow vehicle 02 Ford F250 V10.
>
> I was able to get 3 jeeps on this trailer! :-)
01-29-2005, 11:00 PM
#62
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: flat towing instructions
>
>RoyJ - Not sure I follow your logic. The CJ weighs about 4400 lbs. A
>trailer would add at least 1000 lbs (probably closer to 2000,) so I'd
>be way over my rated 4800lb towing capacity. Why would an overweight
>trailer be any safer/more stable than an acceptably weighted CJ?
I've flat towed my TJ literally thousands of miles:
http://home.comcast.net/~1redcreek/jeep/Ready2Go.jpg
And I wouldn't tow it with anything less than a Ford Expedition or GM
equivalent. On twisty back roads you can really feel the jeep trying to push
the rear end of the vehicle around. It works something like this: first you are
driving in a straight line - - - everything is fine. Then you need to take a
left hand curve, but the jeep still wants to go straight. So the tow vehicle
starts moving left and the jeep fights you until it finally starts going left as
well. And everything is fine. BUT, now the road straightens out, the jeep
wants to keep turning left and fights you until it is going straight again as
well. Repeat over, and over, and over.
I absolutely would not tow my Jeep on snowy roads. I have towed it in the rain
and it was a bit of a white knuckle affair. And this is with a tow vehicle
rated for 7,000 lbs. Your combo is only 400 lbs less than the maximum of the
tow vehicle. Add the weight of the passengers and their gear and you are at or
over the max for your vehicle. Over in the RV group the general advice it to
take 75% of what the manufacture says as the safe maximum.
You haven't said what your tow vehicle is, but IMHO you are at the ragged edge
of safety.
Dean
>RoyJ - Not sure I follow your logic. The CJ weighs about 4400 lbs. A
>trailer would add at least 1000 lbs (probably closer to 2000,) so I'd
>be way over my rated 4800lb towing capacity. Why would an overweight
>trailer be any safer/more stable than an acceptably weighted CJ?
I've flat towed my TJ literally thousands of miles:
http://home.comcast.net/~1redcreek/jeep/Ready2Go.jpg
And I wouldn't tow it with anything less than a Ford Expedition or GM
equivalent. On twisty back roads you can really feel the jeep trying to push
the rear end of the vehicle around. It works something like this: first you are
driving in a straight line - - - everything is fine. Then you need to take a
left hand curve, but the jeep still wants to go straight. So the tow vehicle
starts moving left and the jeep fights you until it finally starts going left as
well. And everything is fine. BUT, now the road straightens out, the jeep
wants to keep turning left and fights you until it is going straight again as
well. Repeat over, and over, and over.
I absolutely would not tow my Jeep on snowy roads. I have towed it in the rain
and it was a bit of a white knuckle affair. And this is with a tow vehicle
rated for 7,000 lbs. Your combo is only 400 lbs less than the maximum of the
tow vehicle. Add the weight of the passengers and their gear and you are at or
over the max for your vehicle. Over in the RV group the general advice it to
take 75% of what the manufacture says as the safe maximum.
You haven't said what your tow vehicle is, but IMHO you are at the ragged edge
of safety.
Dean
01-29-2005, 11:00 PM
#63
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: flat towing instructions
>
>RoyJ - Not sure I follow your logic. The CJ weighs about 4400 lbs. A
>trailer would add at least 1000 lbs (probably closer to 2000,) so I'd
>be way over my rated 4800lb towing capacity. Why would an overweight
>trailer be any safer/more stable than an acceptably weighted CJ?
I've flat towed my TJ literally thousands of miles:
http://home.comcast.net/~1redcreek/jeep/Ready2Go.jpg
And I wouldn't tow it with anything less than a Ford Expedition or GM
equivalent. On twisty back roads you can really feel the jeep trying to push
the rear end of the vehicle around. It works something like this: first you are
driving in a straight line - - - everything is fine. Then you need to take a
left hand curve, but the jeep still wants to go straight. So the tow vehicle
starts moving left and the jeep fights you until it finally starts going left as
well. And everything is fine. BUT, now the road straightens out, the jeep
wants to keep turning left and fights you until it is going straight again as
well. Repeat over, and over, and over.
I absolutely would not tow my Jeep on snowy roads. I have towed it in the rain
and it was a bit of a white knuckle affair. And this is with a tow vehicle
rated for 7,000 lbs. Your combo is only 400 lbs less than the maximum of the
tow vehicle. Add the weight of the passengers and their gear and you are at or
over the max for your vehicle. Over in the RV group the general advice it to
take 75% of what the manufacture says as the safe maximum.
You haven't said what your tow vehicle is, but IMHO you are at the ragged edge
of safety.
Dean
>RoyJ - Not sure I follow your logic. The CJ weighs about 4400 lbs. A
>trailer would add at least 1000 lbs (probably closer to 2000,) so I'd
>be way over my rated 4800lb towing capacity. Why would an overweight
>trailer be any safer/more stable than an acceptably weighted CJ?
I've flat towed my TJ literally thousands of miles:
http://home.comcast.net/~1redcreek/jeep/Ready2Go.jpg
And I wouldn't tow it with anything less than a Ford Expedition or GM
equivalent. On twisty back roads you can really feel the jeep trying to push
the rear end of the vehicle around. It works something like this: first you are
driving in a straight line - - - everything is fine. Then you need to take a
left hand curve, but the jeep still wants to go straight. So the tow vehicle
starts moving left and the jeep fights you until it finally starts going left as
well. And everything is fine. BUT, now the road straightens out, the jeep
wants to keep turning left and fights you until it is going straight again as
well. Repeat over, and over, and over.
I absolutely would not tow my Jeep on snowy roads. I have towed it in the rain
and it was a bit of a white knuckle affair. And this is with a tow vehicle
rated for 7,000 lbs. Your combo is only 400 lbs less than the maximum of the
tow vehicle. Add the weight of the passengers and their gear and you are at or
over the max for your vehicle. Over in the RV group the general advice it to
take 75% of what the manufacture says as the safe maximum.
You haven't said what your tow vehicle is, but IMHO you are at the ragged edge
of safety.
Dean
01-29-2005, 11:00 PM
#64
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: flat towing instructions
>
>RoyJ - Not sure I follow your logic. The CJ weighs about 4400 lbs. A
>trailer would add at least 1000 lbs (probably closer to 2000,) so I'd
>be way over my rated 4800lb towing capacity. Why would an overweight
>trailer be any safer/more stable than an acceptably weighted CJ?
I've flat towed my TJ literally thousands of miles:
http://home.comcast.net/~1redcreek/jeep/Ready2Go.jpg
And I wouldn't tow it with anything less than a Ford Expedition or GM
equivalent. On twisty back roads you can really feel the jeep trying to push
the rear end of the vehicle around. It works something like this: first you are
driving in a straight line - - - everything is fine. Then you need to take a
left hand curve, but the jeep still wants to go straight. So the tow vehicle
starts moving left and the jeep fights you until it finally starts going left as
well. And everything is fine. BUT, now the road straightens out, the jeep
wants to keep turning left and fights you until it is going straight again as
well. Repeat over, and over, and over.
I absolutely would not tow my Jeep on snowy roads. I have towed it in the rain
and it was a bit of a white knuckle affair. And this is with a tow vehicle
rated for 7,000 lbs. Your combo is only 400 lbs less than the maximum of the
tow vehicle. Add the weight of the passengers and their gear and you are at or
over the max for your vehicle. Over in the RV group the general advice it to
take 75% of what the manufacture says as the safe maximum.
You haven't said what your tow vehicle is, but IMHO you are at the ragged edge
of safety.
Dean
>RoyJ - Not sure I follow your logic. The CJ weighs about 4400 lbs. A
>trailer would add at least 1000 lbs (probably closer to 2000,) so I'd
>be way over my rated 4800lb towing capacity. Why would an overweight
>trailer be any safer/more stable than an acceptably weighted CJ?
I've flat towed my TJ literally thousands of miles:
http://home.comcast.net/~1redcreek/jeep/Ready2Go.jpg
And I wouldn't tow it with anything less than a Ford Expedition or GM
equivalent. On twisty back roads you can really feel the jeep trying to push
the rear end of the vehicle around. It works something like this: first you are
driving in a straight line - - - everything is fine. Then you need to take a
left hand curve, but the jeep still wants to go straight. So the tow vehicle
starts moving left and the jeep fights you until it finally starts going left as
well. And everything is fine. BUT, now the road straightens out, the jeep
wants to keep turning left and fights you until it is going straight again as
well. Repeat over, and over, and over.
I absolutely would not tow my Jeep on snowy roads. I have towed it in the rain
and it was a bit of a white knuckle affair. And this is with a tow vehicle
rated for 7,000 lbs. Your combo is only 400 lbs less than the maximum of the
tow vehicle. Add the weight of the passengers and their gear and you are at or
over the max for your vehicle. Over in the RV group the general advice it to
take 75% of what the manufacture says as the safe maximum.
You haven't said what your tow vehicle is, but IMHO you are at the ragged edge
of safety.
Dean
01-30-2005, 11:19 AM
#65
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: flat towing instructions
I assure you the weight of the CJ is 4400 lbs. I took it to a scale
and had it weighed. (Actually it was 4650 but I plan on taking off the
hard doors for towing which should eliminate 250 lbs.) Among other
things it has 36" boggers, a 360 engine, a full roll cage, Dana 60s
front and rear, two layers of custom skid plates in addition to the
stock skid plate, custom bumpers, winch, and a variety of other heavy
stuff.
The tow vehicle is a 2wd 2002 Dodge Durango. Not sure if this
qualifies as the "Ford Expedit-ion or GM equivalent" suggested by Dean
or not.
The jeep rear axle is indeed a full floating with unlockable hubs. If
I understand what you all are saying, if I unlock all 4 hubs there
will be no lubrication issues. Do I still need to stop every 200 miles
and let the engine idle to splash lubrication up on the bearings? I'm
a bit confused, because in one instance Jeff said I would need to
leave the front hubs locked in to lubricate... but once it was clearly
understood that I have full floating in the rear, the advice changed
to leave all 4 hubs unlocked. I don't understand why the rear
configuration would change the requirement to lock in the front hubs or
not? (Please bear with me if I sound ignorant... I have had some
lesser/stock jeeps and been offroad before but this is my first heavily
modified rig. I bought it as is built by someone else and am still
learning all the ins and outs... I only know enough to be dangerous
but am trying to learn)
A thought: Would a potential good solution be a tow dolly? This could
get the CJ's front wheels up off the road and eliminate the steering
problem, yet would only add a couple hundred pounds of weight instead
of a thousand or more.
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> YOU TOLD US IN ANOTHER POST THAT YOUR CJ HAS FULL FLOATING REAR HUBS.
This
> is a critical bit of information AND IT CHANGES THE ENTIRE
DISCUSSION.
>
> Full Floaters allow flat towing, indeed they are a primary reason
people
> even install them. Well, maybe not primary reason, but CERTAINLY this
is an
> added benefit.
>
> All you need do is unlock all four hubs, and you are ready to go. The
tires
> will be disconnected at the hub from the entire rest of the drive
train,
> COMPLETELY REMOVING the requirement to set the levers on the
transmission
> and transfer case to any specific position. With the hubs unlocked on
the
> rear axle, the drivetrain will remain at rest while you are towing
your CJ.
>
> Not only do Full Floaters let you flat tow, but if you manage to
break an
> axle shaft, you can disconnect the affected tire and still drive your
Jeep.
> This is the primary reason why people install them.
>
> You bought a Bonus, you can flat tow without any worries.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> <lambeth65@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:1106887805.009841.175620@z14g2000cwz.googlegr oups.com...
> >I just got a tow vehicle which is only rated to tow 4800 lbs.... so
it
> > can tow my CJ, but not the CJ + trailer.
> >
> > Is there anything special I need to know before flat towing? I'm
> > guessing I should put the transfer case and transmission in
neutral,
> > and lock in the hubs. Anything else I should do?
> >
and had it weighed. (Actually it was 4650 but I plan on taking off the
hard doors for towing which should eliminate 250 lbs.) Among other
things it has 36" boggers, a 360 engine, a full roll cage, Dana 60s
front and rear, two layers of custom skid plates in addition to the
stock skid plate, custom bumpers, winch, and a variety of other heavy
stuff.
The tow vehicle is a 2wd 2002 Dodge Durango. Not sure if this
qualifies as the "Ford Expedit-ion or GM equivalent" suggested by Dean
or not.
The jeep rear axle is indeed a full floating with unlockable hubs. If
I understand what you all are saying, if I unlock all 4 hubs there
will be no lubrication issues. Do I still need to stop every 200 miles
and let the engine idle to splash lubrication up on the bearings? I'm
a bit confused, because in one instance Jeff said I would need to
leave the front hubs locked in to lubricate... but once it was clearly
understood that I have full floating in the rear, the advice changed
to leave all 4 hubs unlocked. I don't understand why the rear
configuration would change the requirement to lock in the front hubs or
not? (Please bear with me if I sound ignorant... I have had some
lesser/stock jeeps and been offroad before but this is my first heavily
modified rig. I bought it as is built by someone else and am still
learning all the ins and outs... I only know enough to be dangerous
but am trying to learn)
A thought: Would a potential good solution be a tow dolly? This could
get the CJ's front wheels up off the road and eliminate the steering
problem, yet would only add a couple hundred pounds of weight instead
of a thousand or more.
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> YOU TOLD US IN ANOTHER POST THAT YOUR CJ HAS FULL FLOATING REAR HUBS.
This
> is a critical bit of information AND IT CHANGES THE ENTIRE
DISCUSSION.
>
> Full Floaters allow flat towing, indeed they are a primary reason
people
> even install them. Well, maybe not primary reason, but CERTAINLY this
is an
> added benefit.
>
> All you need do is unlock all four hubs, and you are ready to go. The
tires
> will be disconnected at the hub from the entire rest of the drive
train,
> COMPLETELY REMOVING the requirement to set the levers on the
transmission
> and transfer case to any specific position. With the hubs unlocked on
the
> rear axle, the drivetrain will remain at rest while you are towing
your CJ.
>
> Not only do Full Floaters let you flat tow, but if you manage to
break an
> axle shaft, you can disconnect the affected tire and still drive your
Jeep.
> This is the primary reason why people install them.
>
> You bought a Bonus, you can flat tow without any worries.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> <lambeth65@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:1106887805.009841.175620@z14g2000cwz.googlegr oups.com...
> >I just got a tow vehicle which is only rated to tow 4800 lbs.... so
it
> > can tow my CJ, but not the CJ + trailer.
> >
> > Is there anything special I need to know before flat towing? I'm
> > guessing I should put the transfer case and transmission in
neutral,
> > and lock in the hubs. Anything else I should do?
> >
01-30-2005, 11:19 AM
#66
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: flat towing instructions
I assure you the weight of the CJ is 4400 lbs. I took it to a scale
and had it weighed. (Actually it was 4650 but I plan on taking off the
hard doors for towing which should eliminate 250 lbs.) Among other
things it has 36" boggers, a 360 engine, a full roll cage, Dana 60s
front and rear, two layers of custom skid plates in addition to the
stock skid plate, custom bumpers, winch, and a variety of other heavy
stuff.
The tow vehicle is a 2wd 2002 Dodge Durango. Not sure if this
qualifies as the "Ford Expedit-ion or GM equivalent" suggested by Dean
or not.
The jeep rear axle is indeed a full floating with unlockable hubs. If
I understand what you all are saying, if I unlock all 4 hubs there
will be no lubrication issues. Do I still need to stop every 200 miles
and let the engine idle to splash lubrication up on the bearings? I'm
a bit confused, because in one instance Jeff said I would need to
leave the front hubs locked in to lubricate... but once it was clearly
understood that I have full floating in the rear, the advice changed
to leave all 4 hubs unlocked. I don't understand why the rear
configuration would change the requirement to lock in the front hubs or
not? (Please bear with me if I sound ignorant... I have had some
lesser/stock jeeps and been offroad before but this is my first heavily
modified rig. I bought it as is built by someone else and am still
learning all the ins and outs... I only know enough to be dangerous
but am trying to learn)
A thought: Would a potential good solution be a tow dolly? This could
get the CJ's front wheels up off the road and eliminate the steering
problem, yet would only add a couple hundred pounds of weight instead
of a thousand or more.
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> YOU TOLD US IN ANOTHER POST THAT YOUR CJ HAS FULL FLOATING REAR HUBS.
This
> is a critical bit of information AND IT CHANGES THE ENTIRE
DISCUSSION.
>
> Full Floaters allow flat towing, indeed they are a primary reason
people
> even install them. Well, maybe not primary reason, but CERTAINLY this
is an
> added benefit.
>
> All you need do is unlock all four hubs, and you are ready to go. The
tires
> will be disconnected at the hub from the entire rest of the drive
train,
> COMPLETELY REMOVING the requirement to set the levers on the
transmission
> and transfer case to any specific position. With the hubs unlocked on
the
> rear axle, the drivetrain will remain at rest while you are towing
your CJ.
>
> Not only do Full Floaters let you flat tow, but if you manage to
break an
> axle shaft, you can disconnect the affected tire and still drive your
Jeep.
> This is the primary reason why people install them.
>
> You bought a Bonus, you can flat tow without any worries.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> <lambeth65@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:1106887805.009841.175620@z14g2000cwz.googlegr oups.com...
> >I just got a tow vehicle which is only rated to tow 4800 lbs.... so
it
> > can tow my CJ, but not the CJ + trailer.
> >
> > Is there anything special I need to know before flat towing? I'm
> > guessing I should put the transfer case and transmission in
neutral,
> > and lock in the hubs. Anything else I should do?
> >
and had it weighed. (Actually it was 4650 but I plan on taking off the
hard doors for towing which should eliminate 250 lbs.) Among other
things it has 36" boggers, a 360 engine, a full roll cage, Dana 60s
front and rear, two layers of custom skid plates in addition to the
stock skid plate, custom bumpers, winch, and a variety of other heavy
stuff.
The tow vehicle is a 2wd 2002 Dodge Durango. Not sure if this
qualifies as the "Ford Expedit-ion or GM equivalent" suggested by Dean
or not.
The jeep rear axle is indeed a full floating with unlockable hubs. If
I understand what you all are saying, if I unlock all 4 hubs there
will be no lubrication issues. Do I still need to stop every 200 miles
and let the engine idle to splash lubrication up on the bearings? I'm
a bit confused, because in one instance Jeff said I would need to
leave the front hubs locked in to lubricate... but once it was clearly
understood that I have full floating in the rear, the advice changed
to leave all 4 hubs unlocked. I don't understand why the rear
configuration would change the requirement to lock in the front hubs or
not? (Please bear with me if I sound ignorant... I have had some
lesser/stock jeeps and been offroad before but this is my first heavily
modified rig. I bought it as is built by someone else and am still
learning all the ins and outs... I only know enough to be dangerous
but am trying to learn)
A thought: Would a potential good solution be a tow dolly? This could
get the CJ's front wheels up off the road and eliminate the steering
problem, yet would only add a couple hundred pounds of weight instead
of a thousand or more.
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> YOU TOLD US IN ANOTHER POST THAT YOUR CJ HAS FULL FLOATING REAR HUBS.
This
> is a critical bit of information AND IT CHANGES THE ENTIRE
DISCUSSION.
>
> Full Floaters allow flat towing, indeed they are a primary reason
people
> even install them. Well, maybe not primary reason, but CERTAINLY this
is an
> added benefit.
>
> All you need do is unlock all four hubs, and you are ready to go. The
tires
> will be disconnected at the hub from the entire rest of the drive
train,
> COMPLETELY REMOVING the requirement to set the levers on the
transmission
> and transfer case to any specific position. With the hubs unlocked on
the
> rear axle, the drivetrain will remain at rest while you are towing
your CJ.
>
> Not only do Full Floaters let you flat tow, but if you manage to
break an
> axle shaft, you can disconnect the affected tire and still drive your
Jeep.
> This is the primary reason why people install them.
>
> You bought a Bonus, you can flat tow without any worries.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> <lambeth65@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:1106887805.009841.175620@z14g2000cwz.googlegr oups.com...
> >I just got a tow vehicle which is only rated to tow 4800 lbs.... so
it
> > can tow my CJ, but not the CJ + trailer.
> >
> > Is there anything special I need to know before flat towing? I'm
> > guessing I should put the transfer case and transmission in
neutral,
> > and lock in the hubs. Anything else I should do?
> >
01-30-2005, 11:19 AM
#67
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: flat towing instructions
I assure you the weight of the CJ is 4400 lbs. I took it to a scale
and had it weighed. (Actually it was 4650 but I plan on taking off the
hard doors for towing which should eliminate 250 lbs.) Among other
things it has 36" boggers, a 360 engine, a full roll cage, Dana 60s
front and rear, two layers of custom skid plates in addition to the
stock skid plate, custom bumpers, winch, and a variety of other heavy
stuff.
The tow vehicle is a 2wd 2002 Dodge Durango. Not sure if this
qualifies as the "Ford Expedit-ion or GM equivalent" suggested by Dean
or not.
The jeep rear axle is indeed a full floating with unlockable hubs. If
I understand what you all are saying, if I unlock all 4 hubs there
will be no lubrication issues. Do I still need to stop every 200 miles
and let the engine idle to splash lubrication up on the bearings? I'm
a bit confused, because in one instance Jeff said I would need to
leave the front hubs locked in to lubricate... but once it was clearly
understood that I have full floating in the rear, the advice changed
to leave all 4 hubs unlocked. I don't understand why the rear
configuration would change the requirement to lock in the front hubs or
not? (Please bear with me if I sound ignorant... I have had some
lesser/stock jeeps and been offroad before but this is my first heavily
modified rig. I bought it as is built by someone else and am still
learning all the ins and outs... I only know enough to be dangerous
but am trying to learn)
A thought: Would a potential good solution be a tow dolly? This could
get the CJ's front wheels up off the road and eliminate the steering
problem, yet would only add a couple hundred pounds of weight instead
of a thousand or more.
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> YOU TOLD US IN ANOTHER POST THAT YOUR CJ HAS FULL FLOATING REAR HUBS.
This
> is a critical bit of information AND IT CHANGES THE ENTIRE
DISCUSSION.
>
> Full Floaters allow flat towing, indeed they are a primary reason
people
> even install them. Well, maybe not primary reason, but CERTAINLY this
is an
> added benefit.
>
> All you need do is unlock all four hubs, and you are ready to go. The
tires
> will be disconnected at the hub from the entire rest of the drive
train,
> COMPLETELY REMOVING the requirement to set the levers on the
transmission
> and transfer case to any specific position. With the hubs unlocked on
the
> rear axle, the drivetrain will remain at rest while you are towing
your CJ.
>
> Not only do Full Floaters let you flat tow, but if you manage to
break an
> axle shaft, you can disconnect the affected tire and still drive your
Jeep.
> This is the primary reason why people install them.
>
> You bought a Bonus, you can flat tow without any worries.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> <lambeth65@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:1106887805.009841.175620@z14g2000cwz.googlegr oups.com...
> >I just got a tow vehicle which is only rated to tow 4800 lbs.... so
it
> > can tow my CJ, but not the CJ + trailer.
> >
> > Is there anything special I need to know before flat towing? I'm
> > guessing I should put the transfer case and transmission in
neutral,
> > and lock in the hubs. Anything else I should do?
> >
and had it weighed. (Actually it was 4650 but I plan on taking off the
hard doors for towing which should eliminate 250 lbs.) Among other
things it has 36" boggers, a 360 engine, a full roll cage, Dana 60s
front and rear, two layers of custom skid plates in addition to the
stock skid plate, custom bumpers, winch, and a variety of other heavy
stuff.
The tow vehicle is a 2wd 2002 Dodge Durango. Not sure if this
qualifies as the "Ford Expedit-ion or GM equivalent" suggested by Dean
or not.
The jeep rear axle is indeed a full floating with unlockable hubs. If
I understand what you all are saying, if I unlock all 4 hubs there
will be no lubrication issues. Do I still need to stop every 200 miles
and let the engine idle to splash lubrication up on the bearings? I'm
a bit confused, because in one instance Jeff said I would need to
leave the front hubs locked in to lubricate... but once it was clearly
understood that I have full floating in the rear, the advice changed
to leave all 4 hubs unlocked. I don't understand why the rear
configuration would change the requirement to lock in the front hubs or
not? (Please bear with me if I sound ignorant... I have had some
lesser/stock jeeps and been offroad before but this is my first heavily
modified rig. I bought it as is built by someone else and am still
learning all the ins and outs... I only know enough to be dangerous
but am trying to learn)
A thought: Would a potential good solution be a tow dolly? This could
get the CJ's front wheels up off the road and eliminate the steering
problem, yet would only add a couple hundred pounds of weight instead
of a thousand or more.
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> YOU TOLD US IN ANOTHER POST THAT YOUR CJ HAS FULL FLOATING REAR HUBS.
This
> is a critical bit of information AND IT CHANGES THE ENTIRE
DISCUSSION.
>
> Full Floaters allow flat towing, indeed they are a primary reason
people
> even install them. Well, maybe not primary reason, but CERTAINLY this
is an
> added benefit.
>
> All you need do is unlock all four hubs, and you are ready to go. The
tires
> will be disconnected at the hub from the entire rest of the drive
train,
> COMPLETELY REMOVING the requirement to set the levers on the
transmission
> and transfer case to any specific position. With the hubs unlocked on
the
> rear axle, the drivetrain will remain at rest while you are towing
your CJ.
>
> Not only do Full Floaters let you flat tow, but if you manage to
break an
> axle shaft, you can disconnect the affected tire and still drive your
Jeep.
> This is the primary reason why people install them.
>
> You bought a Bonus, you can flat tow without any worries.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> <lambeth65@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:1106887805.009841.175620@z14g2000cwz.googlegr oups.com...
> >I just got a tow vehicle which is only rated to tow 4800 lbs.... so
it
> > can tow my CJ, but not the CJ + trailer.
> >
> > Is there anything special I need to know before flat towing? I'm
> > guessing I should put the transfer case and transmission in
neutral,
> > and lock in the hubs. Anything else I should do?
> >
01-30-2005, 11:31 AM
#68
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: flat towing instructions
How cute, they're both red!!! :)
I'm not a fan of flat towing so I don't have much time on the road doing
it. But your experience is exactly what I would expect, especially the
comments on driving in the rain.
Dean wrote:
>>RoyJ - Not sure I follow your logic. The CJ weighs about 4400 lbs. A
>>trailer would add at least 1000 lbs (probably closer to 2000,) so I'd
>>be way over my rated 4800lb towing capacity. Why would an overweight
>>trailer be any safer/more stable than an acceptably weighted CJ?
>
>
> I've flat towed my TJ literally thousands of miles:
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~1redcreek/jeep/Ready2Go.jpg
>
> And I wouldn't tow it with anything less than a Ford Expedition or GM
> equivalent. On twisty back roads you can really feel the jeep trying to push
> the rear end of the vehicle around. It works something like this: first you are
> driving in a straight line - - - everything is fine. Then you need to take a
> left hand curve, but the jeep still wants to go straight. So the tow vehicle
> starts moving left and the jeep fights you until it finally starts going left as
> well. And everything is fine. BUT, now the road straightens out, the jeep
> wants to keep turning left and fights you until it is going straight again as
> well. Repeat over, and over, and over.
>
> I absolutely would not tow my Jeep on snowy roads. I have towed it in the rain
> and it was a bit of a white knuckle affair. And this is with a tow vehicle
> rated for 7,000 lbs. Your combo is only 400 lbs less than the maximum of the
> tow vehicle. Add the weight of the passengers and their gear and you are at or
> over the max for your vehicle. Over in the RV group the general advice it to
> take 75% of what the manufacture says as the safe maximum.
>
> You haven't said what your tow vehicle is, but IMHO you are at the ragged edge
> of safety.
>
> Dean
I'm not a fan of flat towing so I don't have much time on the road doing
it. But your experience is exactly what I would expect, especially the
comments on driving in the rain.
Dean wrote:
>>RoyJ - Not sure I follow your logic. The CJ weighs about 4400 lbs. A
>>trailer would add at least 1000 lbs (probably closer to 2000,) so I'd
>>be way over my rated 4800lb towing capacity. Why would an overweight
>>trailer be any safer/more stable than an acceptably weighted CJ?
>
>
> I've flat towed my TJ literally thousands of miles:
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~1redcreek/jeep/Ready2Go.jpg
>
> And I wouldn't tow it with anything less than a Ford Expedition or GM
> equivalent. On twisty back roads you can really feel the jeep trying to push
> the rear end of the vehicle around. It works something like this: first you are
> driving in a straight line - - - everything is fine. Then you need to take a
> left hand curve, but the jeep still wants to go straight. So the tow vehicle
> starts moving left and the jeep fights you until it finally starts going left as
> well. And everything is fine. BUT, now the road straightens out, the jeep
> wants to keep turning left and fights you until it is going straight again as
> well. Repeat over, and over, and over.
>
> I absolutely would not tow my Jeep on snowy roads. I have towed it in the rain
> and it was a bit of a white knuckle affair. And this is with a tow vehicle
> rated for 7,000 lbs. Your combo is only 400 lbs less than the maximum of the
> tow vehicle. Add the weight of the passengers and their gear and you are at or
> over the max for your vehicle. Over in the RV group the general advice it to
> take 75% of what the manufacture says as the safe maximum.
>
> You haven't said what your tow vehicle is, but IMHO you are at the ragged edge
> of safety.
>
> Dean
01-30-2005, 11:31 AM
#69
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: flat towing instructions
How cute, they're both red!!! :)
I'm not a fan of flat towing so I don't have much time on the road doing
it. But your experience is exactly what I would expect, especially the
comments on driving in the rain.
Dean wrote:
>>RoyJ - Not sure I follow your logic. The CJ weighs about 4400 lbs. A
>>trailer would add at least 1000 lbs (probably closer to 2000,) so I'd
>>be way over my rated 4800lb towing capacity. Why would an overweight
>>trailer be any safer/more stable than an acceptably weighted CJ?
>
>
> I've flat towed my TJ literally thousands of miles:
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~1redcreek/jeep/Ready2Go.jpg
>
> And I wouldn't tow it with anything less than a Ford Expedition or GM
> equivalent. On twisty back roads you can really feel the jeep trying to push
> the rear end of the vehicle around. It works something like this: first you are
> driving in a straight line - - - everything is fine. Then you need to take a
> left hand curve, but the jeep still wants to go straight. So the tow vehicle
> starts moving left and the jeep fights you until it finally starts going left as
> well. And everything is fine. BUT, now the road straightens out, the jeep
> wants to keep turning left and fights you until it is going straight again as
> well. Repeat over, and over, and over.
>
> I absolutely would not tow my Jeep on snowy roads. I have towed it in the rain
> and it was a bit of a white knuckle affair. And this is with a tow vehicle
> rated for 7,000 lbs. Your combo is only 400 lbs less than the maximum of the
> tow vehicle. Add the weight of the passengers and their gear and you are at or
> over the max for your vehicle. Over in the RV group the general advice it to
> take 75% of what the manufacture says as the safe maximum.
>
> You haven't said what your tow vehicle is, but IMHO you are at the ragged edge
> of safety.
>
> Dean
I'm not a fan of flat towing so I don't have much time on the road doing
it. But your experience is exactly what I would expect, especially the
comments on driving in the rain.
Dean wrote:
>>RoyJ - Not sure I follow your logic. The CJ weighs about 4400 lbs. A
>>trailer would add at least 1000 lbs (probably closer to 2000,) so I'd
>>be way over my rated 4800lb towing capacity. Why would an overweight
>>trailer be any safer/more stable than an acceptably weighted CJ?
>
>
> I've flat towed my TJ literally thousands of miles:
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~1redcreek/jeep/Ready2Go.jpg
>
> And I wouldn't tow it with anything less than a Ford Expedition or GM
> equivalent. On twisty back roads you can really feel the jeep trying to push
> the rear end of the vehicle around. It works something like this: first you are
> driving in a straight line - - - everything is fine. Then you need to take a
> left hand curve, but the jeep still wants to go straight. So the tow vehicle
> starts moving left and the jeep fights you until it finally starts going left as
> well. And everything is fine. BUT, now the road straightens out, the jeep
> wants to keep turning left and fights you until it is going straight again as
> well. Repeat over, and over, and over.
>
> I absolutely would not tow my Jeep on snowy roads. I have towed it in the rain
> and it was a bit of a white knuckle affair. And this is with a tow vehicle
> rated for 7,000 lbs. Your combo is only 400 lbs less than the maximum of the
> tow vehicle. Add the weight of the passengers and their gear and you are at or
> over the max for your vehicle. Over in the RV group the general advice it to
> take 75% of what the manufacture says as the safe maximum.
>
> You haven't said what your tow vehicle is, but IMHO you are at the ragged edge
> of safety.
>
> Dean
01-30-2005, 11:31 AM
#70
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: flat towing instructions
How cute, they're both red!!! :)
I'm not a fan of flat towing so I don't have much time on the road doing
it. But your experience is exactly what I would expect, especially the
comments on driving in the rain.
Dean wrote:
>>RoyJ - Not sure I follow your logic. The CJ weighs about 4400 lbs. A
>>trailer would add at least 1000 lbs (probably closer to 2000,) so I'd
>>be way over my rated 4800lb towing capacity. Why would an overweight
>>trailer be any safer/more stable than an acceptably weighted CJ?
>
>
> I've flat towed my TJ literally thousands of miles:
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~1redcreek/jeep/Ready2Go.jpg
>
> And I wouldn't tow it with anything less than a Ford Expedition or GM
> equivalent. On twisty back roads you can really feel the jeep trying to push
> the rear end of the vehicle around. It works something like this: first you are
> driving in a straight line - - - everything is fine. Then you need to take a
> left hand curve, but the jeep still wants to go straight. So the tow vehicle
> starts moving left and the jeep fights you until it finally starts going left as
> well. And everything is fine. BUT, now the road straightens out, the jeep
> wants to keep turning left and fights you until it is going straight again as
> well. Repeat over, and over, and over.
>
> I absolutely would not tow my Jeep on snowy roads. I have towed it in the rain
> and it was a bit of a white knuckle affair. And this is with a tow vehicle
> rated for 7,000 lbs. Your combo is only 400 lbs less than the maximum of the
> tow vehicle. Add the weight of the passengers and their gear and you are at or
> over the max for your vehicle. Over in the RV group the general advice it to
> take 75% of what the manufacture says as the safe maximum.
>
> You haven't said what your tow vehicle is, but IMHO you are at the ragged edge
> of safety.
>
> Dean
I'm not a fan of flat towing so I don't have much time on the road doing
it. But your experience is exactly what I would expect, especially the
comments on driving in the rain.
Dean wrote:
>>RoyJ - Not sure I follow your logic. The CJ weighs about 4400 lbs. A
>>trailer would add at least 1000 lbs (probably closer to 2000,) so I'd
>>be way over my rated 4800lb towing capacity. Why would an overweight
>>trailer be any safer/more stable than an acceptably weighted CJ?
>
>
> I've flat towed my TJ literally thousands of miles:
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~1redcreek/jeep/Ready2Go.jpg
>
> And I wouldn't tow it with anything less than a Ford Expedition or GM
> equivalent. On twisty back roads you can really feel the jeep trying to push
> the rear end of the vehicle around. It works something like this: first you are
> driving in a straight line - - - everything is fine. Then you need to take a
> left hand curve, but the jeep still wants to go straight. So the tow vehicle
> starts moving left and the jeep fights you until it finally starts going left as
> well. And everything is fine. BUT, now the road straightens out, the jeep
> wants to keep turning left and fights you until it is going straight again as
> well. Repeat over, and over, and over.
>
> I absolutely would not tow my Jeep on snowy roads. I have towed it in the rain
> and it was a bit of a white knuckle affair. And this is with a tow vehicle
> rated for 7,000 lbs. Your combo is only 400 lbs less than the maximum of the
> tow vehicle. Add the weight of the passengers and their gear and you are at or
> over the max for your vehicle. Over in the RV group the general advice it to
> take 75% of what the manufacture says as the safe maximum.
>
> You haven't said what your tow vehicle is, but IMHO you are at the ragged edge
> of safety.
>
> Dean