Finally The Answer to my Brake Issues
#61
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Finally The Answer to my Brake Issues
That's the new plumbing, you're heard of maderal pipe bends? That's
bending of tubes without kinking them making for a unequal restriction
between wheels. Buy the spring thingies to slide over the lines, does an
OK job: http://www.----------.com/tubebender.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Jason Backshall wrote:
>
> That said - are you suggesting I fill my brake lines with sand when it comes
> time for replacement!?
bending of tubes without kinking them making for a unequal restriction
between wheels. Buy the spring thingies to slide over the lines, does an
OK job: http://www.----------.com/tubebender.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Jason Backshall wrote:
>
> That said - are you suggesting I fill my brake lines with sand when it comes
> time for replacement!?
#62
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Finally The Answer to my Brake Issues
The new Z06 Corvette uses hydraulic pressure to bend their frames,
helping in to keep the car under three thousand pounds.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
>
> That is one way to help stop the lines from kinking when bending. When
> they are full, it is harder to kink them. Renting the real tube bender
> is the better way to go.
>
> I guess I should have mentioned you need to blow and rinse them out
> after you shape them?? The white beach sand you can buy isn't too
> dusty, it has been pre-washed and runs out like an hourglass. Something
> like aquarium sand.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
helping in to keep the car under three thousand pounds.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
>
> That is one way to help stop the lines from kinking when bending. When
> they are full, it is harder to kink them. Renting the real tube bender
> is the better way to go.
>
> I guess I should have mentioned you need to blow and rinse them out
> after you shape them?? The white beach sand you can buy isn't too
> dusty, it has been pre-washed and runs out like an hourglass. Something
> like aquarium sand.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#63
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Finally The Answer to my Brake Issues
The new Z06 Corvette uses hydraulic pressure to bend their frames,
helping in to keep the car under three thousand pounds.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
>
> That is one way to help stop the lines from kinking when bending. When
> they are full, it is harder to kink them. Renting the real tube bender
> is the better way to go.
>
> I guess I should have mentioned you need to blow and rinse them out
> after you shape them?? The white beach sand you can buy isn't too
> dusty, it has been pre-washed and runs out like an hourglass. Something
> like aquarium sand.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
helping in to keep the car under three thousand pounds.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
>
> That is one way to help stop the lines from kinking when bending. When
> they are full, it is harder to kink them. Renting the real tube bender
> is the better way to go.
>
> I guess I should have mentioned you need to blow and rinse them out
> after you shape them?? The white beach sand you can buy isn't too
> dusty, it has been pre-washed and runs out like an hourglass. Something
> like aquarium sand.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#64
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Finally The Answer to my Brake Issues
The new Z06 Corvette uses hydraulic pressure to bend their frames,
helping in to keep the car under three thousand pounds.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
>
> That is one way to help stop the lines from kinking when bending. When
> they are full, it is harder to kink them. Renting the real tube bender
> is the better way to go.
>
> I guess I should have mentioned you need to blow and rinse them out
> after you shape them?? The white beach sand you can buy isn't too
> dusty, it has been pre-washed and runs out like an hourglass. Something
> like aquarium sand.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
helping in to keep the car under three thousand pounds.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
>
> That is one way to help stop the lines from kinking when bending. When
> they are full, it is harder to kink them. Renting the real tube bender
> is the better way to go.
>
> I guess I should have mentioned you need to blow and rinse them out
> after you shape them?? The white beach sand you can buy isn't too
> dusty, it has been pre-washed and runs out like an hourglass. Something
> like aquarium sand.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#65
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Finally The Answer to my Brake Issues
There are a couple places that will possibly make the replacements.
http://www.inlinetube.com/ and another one called Classic Tube, but for some
reason I can't find their website at the moment. One or both of them will
replicate your existing lines if you send them in, and the prices weren't
bad at all. I paid $160 for a complete set of stainless lines for my S-10
and they were delivered in just a few days. Everything fit perfectly. Might
be worth a look.
Chris
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:435A9BB4.D13F54E0@sympatico.ca...
> I do not think you can get preformed lines for a CJ7. At least up here
> in Canada they don't carry stuff that old.
>
> You can get pre-terminated lines of various lengths at most auto stores
> so if you take in the old lines you can likely match them fairly close.
> Nothing a few lazy S bends can't fix for being a bit too long.
>
> The problem with the pre-terminated ones is getting smooth bends. There
> are some wicked bends in the rear around the shocks and back axle and
> from the combination valve out to the front wheels. If you get the coil
> spring bender, you can thread or screw it over the flare with some
> patience and strong fingers. The bender just slips along with the bulk
> tubing.
>
> One other way to do nice bends is to duct tape one end of the pipe and
> fill it with fine white beach sand while tapping it down so it packs in
> there. This will keep the line from kinking.
>
> If you aren't comfortable using a flare tool, then the pre-terminated
> lines are the way to go. No matter, the new fittings will need to make
> a creaking noise before they are properly tight.
>
> The old lines won't likely come off easy at the fittings. When I am
> replacing, I cut the tubes just at the brass fitting so I can use a
> socket wrench on them instead of an open end wrench.
>
> A proper open end tube or fitting wrench is well worth buying. They fit
> 5 of the 6 fitting sides and you can hold them closed with vise grips if
> needed.
>
> You will need lots of good penetrating oil.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jack-Jack wrote:
> >
> > Anybody have any input on bulk brake line vs. the preformed...price not
> > withstanding!
http://www.inlinetube.com/ and another one called Classic Tube, but for some
reason I can't find their website at the moment. One or both of them will
replicate your existing lines if you send them in, and the prices weren't
bad at all. I paid $160 for a complete set of stainless lines for my S-10
and they were delivered in just a few days. Everything fit perfectly. Might
be worth a look.
Chris
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:435A9BB4.D13F54E0@sympatico.ca...
> I do not think you can get preformed lines for a CJ7. At least up here
> in Canada they don't carry stuff that old.
>
> You can get pre-terminated lines of various lengths at most auto stores
> so if you take in the old lines you can likely match them fairly close.
> Nothing a few lazy S bends can't fix for being a bit too long.
>
> The problem with the pre-terminated ones is getting smooth bends. There
> are some wicked bends in the rear around the shocks and back axle and
> from the combination valve out to the front wheels. If you get the coil
> spring bender, you can thread or screw it over the flare with some
> patience and strong fingers. The bender just slips along with the bulk
> tubing.
>
> One other way to do nice bends is to duct tape one end of the pipe and
> fill it with fine white beach sand while tapping it down so it packs in
> there. This will keep the line from kinking.
>
> If you aren't comfortable using a flare tool, then the pre-terminated
> lines are the way to go. No matter, the new fittings will need to make
> a creaking noise before they are properly tight.
>
> The old lines won't likely come off easy at the fittings. When I am
> replacing, I cut the tubes just at the brass fitting so I can use a
> socket wrench on them instead of an open end wrench.
>
> A proper open end tube or fitting wrench is well worth buying. They fit
> 5 of the 6 fitting sides and you can hold them closed with vise grips if
> needed.
>
> You will need lots of good penetrating oil.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jack-Jack wrote:
> >
> > Anybody have any input on bulk brake line vs. the preformed...price not
> > withstanding!
#66
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Finally The Answer to my Brake Issues
There are a couple places that will possibly make the replacements.
http://www.inlinetube.com/ and another one called Classic Tube, but for some
reason I can't find their website at the moment. One or both of them will
replicate your existing lines if you send them in, and the prices weren't
bad at all. I paid $160 for a complete set of stainless lines for my S-10
and they were delivered in just a few days. Everything fit perfectly. Might
be worth a look.
Chris
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:435A9BB4.D13F54E0@sympatico.ca...
> I do not think you can get preformed lines for a CJ7. At least up here
> in Canada they don't carry stuff that old.
>
> You can get pre-terminated lines of various lengths at most auto stores
> so if you take in the old lines you can likely match them fairly close.
> Nothing a few lazy S bends can't fix for being a bit too long.
>
> The problem with the pre-terminated ones is getting smooth bends. There
> are some wicked bends in the rear around the shocks and back axle and
> from the combination valve out to the front wheels. If you get the coil
> spring bender, you can thread or screw it over the flare with some
> patience and strong fingers. The bender just slips along with the bulk
> tubing.
>
> One other way to do nice bends is to duct tape one end of the pipe and
> fill it with fine white beach sand while tapping it down so it packs in
> there. This will keep the line from kinking.
>
> If you aren't comfortable using a flare tool, then the pre-terminated
> lines are the way to go. No matter, the new fittings will need to make
> a creaking noise before they are properly tight.
>
> The old lines won't likely come off easy at the fittings. When I am
> replacing, I cut the tubes just at the brass fitting so I can use a
> socket wrench on them instead of an open end wrench.
>
> A proper open end tube or fitting wrench is well worth buying. They fit
> 5 of the 6 fitting sides and you can hold them closed with vise grips if
> needed.
>
> You will need lots of good penetrating oil.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jack-Jack wrote:
> >
> > Anybody have any input on bulk brake line vs. the preformed...price not
> > withstanding!
http://www.inlinetube.com/ and another one called Classic Tube, but for some
reason I can't find their website at the moment. One or both of them will
replicate your existing lines if you send them in, and the prices weren't
bad at all. I paid $160 for a complete set of stainless lines for my S-10
and they were delivered in just a few days. Everything fit perfectly. Might
be worth a look.
Chris
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:435A9BB4.D13F54E0@sympatico.ca...
> I do not think you can get preformed lines for a CJ7. At least up here
> in Canada they don't carry stuff that old.
>
> You can get pre-terminated lines of various lengths at most auto stores
> so if you take in the old lines you can likely match them fairly close.
> Nothing a few lazy S bends can't fix for being a bit too long.
>
> The problem with the pre-terminated ones is getting smooth bends. There
> are some wicked bends in the rear around the shocks and back axle and
> from the combination valve out to the front wheels. If you get the coil
> spring bender, you can thread or screw it over the flare with some
> patience and strong fingers. The bender just slips along with the bulk
> tubing.
>
> One other way to do nice bends is to duct tape one end of the pipe and
> fill it with fine white beach sand while tapping it down so it packs in
> there. This will keep the line from kinking.
>
> If you aren't comfortable using a flare tool, then the pre-terminated
> lines are the way to go. No matter, the new fittings will need to make
> a creaking noise before they are properly tight.
>
> The old lines won't likely come off easy at the fittings. When I am
> replacing, I cut the tubes just at the brass fitting so I can use a
> socket wrench on them instead of an open end wrench.
>
> A proper open end tube or fitting wrench is well worth buying. They fit
> 5 of the 6 fitting sides and you can hold them closed with vise grips if
> needed.
>
> You will need lots of good penetrating oil.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jack-Jack wrote:
> >
> > Anybody have any input on bulk brake line vs. the preformed...price not
> > withstanding!
#67
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Finally The Answer to my Brake Issues
There are a couple places that will possibly make the replacements.
http://www.inlinetube.com/ and another one called Classic Tube, but for some
reason I can't find their website at the moment. One or both of them will
replicate your existing lines if you send them in, and the prices weren't
bad at all. I paid $160 for a complete set of stainless lines for my S-10
and they were delivered in just a few days. Everything fit perfectly. Might
be worth a look.
Chris
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:435A9BB4.D13F54E0@sympatico.ca...
> I do not think you can get preformed lines for a CJ7. At least up here
> in Canada they don't carry stuff that old.
>
> You can get pre-terminated lines of various lengths at most auto stores
> so if you take in the old lines you can likely match them fairly close.
> Nothing a few lazy S bends can't fix for being a bit too long.
>
> The problem with the pre-terminated ones is getting smooth bends. There
> are some wicked bends in the rear around the shocks and back axle and
> from the combination valve out to the front wheels. If you get the coil
> spring bender, you can thread or screw it over the flare with some
> patience and strong fingers. The bender just slips along with the bulk
> tubing.
>
> One other way to do nice bends is to duct tape one end of the pipe and
> fill it with fine white beach sand while tapping it down so it packs in
> there. This will keep the line from kinking.
>
> If you aren't comfortable using a flare tool, then the pre-terminated
> lines are the way to go. No matter, the new fittings will need to make
> a creaking noise before they are properly tight.
>
> The old lines won't likely come off easy at the fittings. When I am
> replacing, I cut the tubes just at the brass fitting so I can use a
> socket wrench on them instead of an open end wrench.
>
> A proper open end tube or fitting wrench is well worth buying. They fit
> 5 of the 6 fitting sides and you can hold them closed with vise grips if
> needed.
>
> You will need lots of good penetrating oil.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jack-Jack wrote:
> >
> > Anybody have any input on bulk brake line vs. the preformed...price not
> > withstanding!
http://www.inlinetube.com/ and another one called Classic Tube, but for some
reason I can't find their website at the moment. One or both of them will
replicate your existing lines if you send them in, and the prices weren't
bad at all. I paid $160 for a complete set of stainless lines for my S-10
and they were delivered in just a few days. Everything fit perfectly. Might
be worth a look.
Chris
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:435A9BB4.D13F54E0@sympatico.ca...
> I do not think you can get preformed lines for a CJ7. At least up here
> in Canada they don't carry stuff that old.
>
> You can get pre-terminated lines of various lengths at most auto stores
> so if you take in the old lines you can likely match them fairly close.
> Nothing a few lazy S bends can't fix for being a bit too long.
>
> The problem with the pre-terminated ones is getting smooth bends. There
> are some wicked bends in the rear around the shocks and back axle and
> from the combination valve out to the front wheels. If you get the coil
> spring bender, you can thread or screw it over the flare with some
> patience and strong fingers. The bender just slips along with the bulk
> tubing.
>
> One other way to do nice bends is to duct tape one end of the pipe and
> fill it with fine white beach sand while tapping it down so it packs in
> there. This will keep the line from kinking.
>
> If you aren't comfortable using a flare tool, then the pre-terminated
> lines are the way to go. No matter, the new fittings will need to make
> a creaking noise before they are properly tight.
>
> The old lines won't likely come off easy at the fittings. When I am
> replacing, I cut the tubes just at the brass fitting so I can use a
> socket wrench on them instead of an open end wrench.
>
> A proper open end tube or fitting wrench is well worth buying. They fit
> 5 of the 6 fitting sides and you can hold them closed with vise grips if
> needed.
>
> You will need lots of good penetrating oil.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jack-Jack wrote:
> >
> > Anybody have any input on bulk brake line vs. the preformed...price not
> > withstanding!
#68
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Finally The Answer to my Brake Issues
JC Whitney carries preformed stainless steel brake lines for 67-83 CJ-5s
and 76-86 CJ-7s. They also carry Omix-Ada preformed steel brake lines
for early CJs. I think that Quadratec carried preformed brake lines but
they seem to have decided that people will buy more stuff if forced to
leaf through the entire catalogue. They've deleted the index.
I put pre-formed stainless lines in my `79 CJ-5 restoration. I think it
saved me quite a lot of frustration and they fit perfectly.
Mike Romain wrote:
> I do not think you can get preformed lines for a CJ7. At least up here
> in Canada they don't carry stuff that old.
>
> You can get pre-terminated lines of various lengths at most auto stores
> so if you take in the old lines you can likely match them fairly close.
> Nothing a few lazy S bends can't fix for being a bit too long.
>
> The problem with the pre-terminated ones is getting smooth bends. There
> are some wicked bends in the rear around the shocks and back axle and
> from the combination valve out to the front wheels. If you get the coil
> spring bender, you can thread or screw it over the flare with some
> patience and strong fingers. The bender just slips along with the bulk
> tubing.
>
> One other way to do nice bends is to duct tape one end of the pipe and
> fill it with fine white beach sand while tapping it down so it packs in
> there. This will keep the line from kinking.
>
> If you aren't comfortable using a flare tool, then the pre-terminated
> lines are the way to go. No matter, the new fittings will need to make
> a creaking noise before they are properly tight.
>
> The old lines won't likely come off easy at the fittings. When I am
> replacing, I cut the tubes just at the brass fitting so I can use a
> socket wrench on them instead of an open end wrench.
>
> A proper open end tube or fitting wrench is well worth buying. They fit
> 5 of the 6 fitting sides and you can hold them closed with vise grips if
> needed.
>
> You will need lots of good penetrating oil.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jack-Jack wrote:
>
>>Anybody have any input on bulk brake line vs. the preformed...price not
>>withstanding!
and 76-86 CJ-7s. They also carry Omix-Ada preformed steel brake lines
for early CJs. I think that Quadratec carried preformed brake lines but
they seem to have decided that people will buy more stuff if forced to
leaf through the entire catalogue. They've deleted the index.
I put pre-formed stainless lines in my `79 CJ-5 restoration. I think it
saved me quite a lot of frustration and they fit perfectly.
Mike Romain wrote:
> I do not think you can get preformed lines for a CJ7. At least up here
> in Canada they don't carry stuff that old.
>
> You can get pre-terminated lines of various lengths at most auto stores
> so if you take in the old lines you can likely match them fairly close.
> Nothing a few lazy S bends can't fix for being a bit too long.
>
> The problem with the pre-terminated ones is getting smooth bends. There
> are some wicked bends in the rear around the shocks and back axle and
> from the combination valve out to the front wheels. If you get the coil
> spring bender, you can thread or screw it over the flare with some
> patience and strong fingers. The bender just slips along with the bulk
> tubing.
>
> One other way to do nice bends is to duct tape one end of the pipe and
> fill it with fine white beach sand while tapping it down so it packs in
> there. This will keep the line from kinking.
>
> If you aren't comfortable using a flare tool, then the pre-terminated
> lines are the way to go. No matter, the new fittings will need to make
> a creaking noise before they are properly tight.
>
> The old lines won't likely come off easy at the fittings. When I am
> replacing, I cut the tubes just at the brass fitting so I can use a
> socket wrench on them instead of an open end wrench.
>
> A proper open end tube or fitting wrench is well worth buying. They fit
> 5 of the 6 fitting sides and you can hold them closed with vise grips if
> needed.
>
> You will need lots of good penetrating oil.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jack-Jack wrote:
>
>>Anybody have any input on bulk brake line vs. the preformed...price not
>>withstanding!
#69
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Finally The Answer to my Brake Issues
JC Whitney carries preformed stainless steel brake lines for 67-83 CJ-5s
and 76-86 CJ-7s. They also carry Omix-Ada preformed steel brake lines
for early CJs. I think that Quadratec carried preformed brake lines but
they seem to have decided that people will buy more stuff if forced to
leaf through the entire catalogue. They've deleted the index.
I put pre-formed stainless lines in my `79 CJ-5 restoration. I think it
saved me quite a lot of frustration and they fit perfectly.
Mike Romain wrote:
> I do not think you can get preformed lines for a CJ7. At least up here
> in Canada they don't carry stuff that old.
>
> You can get pre-terminated lines of various lengths at most auto stores
> so if you take in the old lines you can likely match them fairly close.
> Nothing a few lazy S bends can't fix for being a bit too long.
>
> The problem with the pre-terminated ones is getting smooth bends. There
> are some wicked bends in the rear around the shocks and back axle and
> from the combination valve out to the front wheels. If you get the coil
> spring bender, you can thread or screw it over the flare with some
> patience and strong fingers. The bender just slips along with the bulk
> tubing.
>
> One other way to do nice bends is to duct tape one end of the pipe and
> fill it with fine white beach sand while tapping it down so it packs in
> there. This will keep the line from kinking.
>
> If you aren't comfortable using a flare tool, then the pre-terminated
> lines are the way to go. No matter, the new fittings will need to make
> a creaking noise before they are properly tight.
>
> The old lines won't likely come off easy at the fittings. When I am
> replacing, I cut the tubes just at the brass fitting so I can use a
> socket wrench on them instead of an open end wrench.
>
> A proper open end tube or fitting wrench is well worth buying. They fit
> 5 of the 6 fitting sides and you can hold them closed with vise grips if
> needed.
>
> You will need lots of good penetrating oil.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jack-Jack wrote:
>
>>Anybody have any input on bulk brake line vs. the preformed...price not
>>withstanding!
and 76-86 CJ-7s. They also carry Omix-Ada preformed steel brake lines
for early CJs. I think that Quadratec carried preformed brake lines but
they seem to have decided that people will buy more stuff if forced to
leaf through the entire catalogue. They've deleted the index.
I put pre-formed stainless lines in my `79 CJ-5 restoration. I think it
saved me quite a lot of frustration and they fit perfectly.
Mike Romain wrote:
> I do not think you can get preformed lines for a CJ7. At least up here
> in Canada they don't carry stuff that old.
>
> You can get pre-terminated lines of various lengths at most auto stores
> so if you take in the old lines you can likely match them fairly close.
> Nothing a few lazy S bends can't fix for being a bit too long.
>
> The problem with the pre-terminated ones is getting smooth bends. There
> are some wicked bends in the rear around the shocks and back axle and
> from the combination valve out to the front wheels. If you get the coil
> spring bender, you can thread or screw it over the flare with some
> patience and strong fingers. The bender just slips along with the bulk
> tubing.
>
> One other way to do nice bends is to duct tape one end of the pipe and
> fill it with fine white beach sand while tapping it down so it packs in
> there. This will keep the line from kinking.
>
> If you aren't comfortable using a flare tool, then the pre-terminated
> lines are the way to go. No matter, the new fittings will need to make
> a creaking noise before they are properly tight.
>
> The old lines won't likely come off easy at the fittings. When I am
> replacing, I cut the tubes just at the brass fitting so I can use a
> socket wrench on them instead of an open end wrench.
>
> A proper open end tube or fitting wrench is well worth buying. They fit
> 5 of the 6 fitting sides and you can hold them closed with vise grips if
> needed.
>
> You will need lots of good penetrating oil.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jack-Jack wrote:
>
>>Anybody have any input on bulk brake line vs. the preformed...price not
>>withstanding!
#70
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Finally The Answer to my Brake Issues
JC Whitney carries preformed stainless steel brake lines for 67-83 CJ-5s
and 76-86 CJ-7s. They also carry Omix-Ada preformed steel brake lines
for early CJs. I think that Quadratec carried preformed brake lines but
they seem to have decided that people will buy more stuff if forced to
leaf through the entire catalogue. They've deleted the index.
I put pre-formed stainless lines in my `79 CJ-5 restoration. I think it
saved me quite a lot of frustration and they fit perfectly.
Mike Romain wrote:
> I do not think you can get preformed lines for a CJ7. At least up here
> in Canada they don't carry stuff that old.
>
> You can get pre-terminated lines of various lengths at most auto stores
> so if you take in the old lines you can likely match them fairly close.
> Nothing a few lazy S bends can't fix for being a bit too long.
>
> The problem with the pre-terminated ones is getting smooth bends. There
> are some wicked bends in the rear around the shocks and back axle and
> from the combination valve out to the front wheels. If you get the coil
> spring bender, you can thread or screw it over the flare with some
> patience and strong fingers. The bender just slips along with the bulk
> tubing.
>
> One other way to do nice bends is to duct tape one end of the pipe and
> fill it with fine white beach sand while tapping it down so it packs in
> there. This will keep the line from kinking.
>
> If you aren't comfortable using a flare tool, then the pre-terminated
> lines are the way to go. No matter, the new fittings will need to make
> a creaking noise before they are properly tight.
>
> The old lines won't likely come off easy at the fittings. When I am
> replacing, I cut the tubes just at the brass fitting so I can use a
> socket wrench on them instead of an open end wrench.
>
> A proper open end tube or fitting wrench is well worth buying. They fit
> 5 of the 6 fitting sides and you can hold them closed with vise grips if
> needed.
>
> You will need lots of good penetrating oil.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jack-Jack wrote:
>
>>Anybody have any input on bulk brake line vs. the preformed...price not
>>withstanding!
and 76-86 CJ-7s. They also carry Omix-Ada preformed steel brake lines
for early CJs. I think that Quadratec carried preformed brake lines but
they seem to have decided that people will buy more stuff if forced to
leaf through the entire catalogue. They've deleted the index.
I put pre-formed stainless lines in my `79 CJ-5 restoration. I think it
saved me quite a lot of frustration and they fit perfectly.
Mike Romain wrote:
> I do not think you can get preformed lines for a CJ7. At least up here
> in Canada they don't carry stuff that old.
>
> You can get pre-terminated lines of various lengths at most auto stores
> so if you take in the old lines you can likely match them fairly close.
> Nothing a few lazy S bends can't fix for being a bit too long.
>
> The problem with the pre-terminated ones is getting smooth bends. There
> are some wicked bends in the rear around the shocks and back axle and
> from the combination valve out to the front wheels. If you get the coil
> spring bender, you can thread or screw it over the flare with some
> patience and strong fingers. The bender just slips along with the bulk
> tubing.
>
> One other way to do nice bends is to duct tape one end of the pipe and
> fill it with fine white beach sand while tapping it down so it packs in
> there. This will keep the line from kinking.
>
> If you aren't comfortable using a flare tool, then the pre-terminated
> lines are the way to go. No matter, the new fittings will need to make
> a creaking noise before they are properly tight.
>
> The old lines won't likely come off easy at the fittings. When I am
> replacing, I cut the tubes just at the brass fitting so I can use a
> socket wrench on them instead of an open end wrench.
>
> A proper open end tube or fitting wrench is well worth buying. They fit
> 5 of the 6 fitting sides and you can hold them closed with vise grips if
> needed.
>
> You will need lots of good penetrating oil.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jack-Jack wrote:
>
>>Anybody have any input on bulk brake line vs. the preformed...price not
>>withstanding!