Paul Calman

Just because it's 40 over doesn't necessarily mean it is trash.
If the bores and pistons are not worn out, ring it and run it .
you don't even need a micrometer to find out, pull the pistons, remove the
rings, measure with a feeler gauge. That doesn't cost anything.
Save your money.

--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California

Paul Calman

Just because it's 40 over doesn't necessarily mean it is trash.
If the bores and pistons are not worn out, ring it and run it .
you don't even need a micrometer to find out, pull the pistons, remove the
rings, measure with a feeler gauge. That doesn't cost anything.
Save your money.

--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California

Paul Calman

Just because it's 40 over doesn't necessarily mean it is trash.
If the bores and pistons are not worn out, ring it and run it .
you don't even need a micrometer to find out, pull the pistons, remove the
rings, measure with a feeler gauge. That doesn't cost anything.
Save your money.

--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California

William Oliveri

Yeah, I haven't given up yet. I'm just laying out contingency plans when I
ask for engine sources.......

Plus, when I looked at the 50 or so bolts (exaggerated) that hold up the oil
pan and that I'd have to take more things off (starter) to get at the
passenger's side, I got weary <grin>

Bill


"Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
news:c1mpag$1kh8dk$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Just because it's 40 over doesn't necessarily mean it is trash.
> If the bores and pistons are not worn out, ring it and run it .
> you don't even need a micrometer to find out, pull the pistons, remove the
> rings, measure with a feeler gauge. That doesn't cost anything.
> Save your money.
>
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
>
>

William Oliveri

Yeah, I haven't given up yet. I'm just laying out contingency plans when I
ask for engine sources.......

Plus, when I looked at the 50 or so bolts (exaggerated) that hold up the oil
pan and that I'd have to take more things off (starter) to get at the
passenger's side, I got weary <grin>

Bill


"Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
news:c1mpag$1kh8dk$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Just because it's 40 over doesn't necessarily mean it is trash.
> If the bores and pistons are not worn out, ring it and run it .
> you don't even need a micrometer to find out, pull the pistons, remove the
> rings, measure with a feeler gauge. That doesn't cost anything.
> Save your money.
>
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
>
>

William Oliveri

Yeah, I haven't given up yet. I'm just laying out contingency plans when I
ask for engine sources.......

Plus, when I looked at the 50 or so bolts (exaggerated) that hold up the oil
pan and that I'd have to take more things off (starter) to get at the
passenger's side, I got weary <grin>

Bill


"Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
news:c1mpag$1kh8dk$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Just because it's 40 over doesn't necessarily mean it is trash.
> If the bores and pistons are not worn out, ring it and run it .
> you don't even need a micrometer to find out, pull the pistons, remove the
> rings, measure with a feeler gauge. That doesn't cost anything.
> Save your money.
>
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
>
>

Steve G

From the looks of your pictures you're almost there. Forty over doesn't
mean the engine is scrap. In fact if it's showing very little ridge at the
top of the cyl and it's been bored out it may be a very good candidate for a
re-ring. If I was on a tight budget I would crawl under and attack those
pan bolts and push out that #2 piston. Worst part of the job is lieing
under there taking it apart and putting it back together with oil dripping
in your face. Think of it as a rite of induction into the DIY'er (Do It
Yourself)world.
Before you take the cap off the rod make sure the cap and rod are marked.
Usually there is a stamping oof the cyl # on the rod and cap on the same
side. Cap and rod need to go back exactly as they came apart. If they're
not stamped and you don't have access to stamping numbers, use a centre
punch and put 2 punch marks on the cap and 2 on the rod just above it and so
on for all rods.
Don't know how you'd use a feeler gauge as suggested above to measure
for oversize, but once the pistons out any machine shop can measure it for
you and tell you what oversize if any.
Don't rering just one cyl. Do them all. With as little ridge as there
appears to be on those cylinders if you rering that engine, put a good head
back in you'll get 100,000 miles out of it without problem.
If I recall correctly, the head you removed has new seals on it and you
determined no appreciable guide wear. Another budget DIY'er trick is to
disassemble the head, take all of the valves to the wire wheel on your bench
grinder and clean them up all shiney. Take a wire wheel on a drill to the
cumbustion chamber valve seat area on the head and clean them up. Buy a
valve lapping kit for about $10 and lap the valves in. Very simple
procedure and will show you exactly how much contact you have between valve
and seat and will properly mate them together for a good seal. Throw it
back together and you're good to go.
This whole job could cost you as little as $200 depending on your buying
level. You won't buy much travel time with a new engine for $200. Again, go
to your library and take out a book on general engine repair/overhaul. An
old book is better than a new one as this is the type of work that was
routinely done in the 50's and 60's and seldom done now due to the high cost
of labor and the longevity of engines.
Steve
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c1mqlf$1kpvvv$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Yeah, I haven't given up yet. I'm just laying out contingency plans when
I
> ask for engine sources.......
>
> Plus, when I looked at the 50 or so bolts (exaggerated) that hold up the
oil
> pan and that I'd have to take more things off (starter) to get at the
> passenger's side, I got weary <grin>
>
> Bill
>
>
> "Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
> news:c1mpag$1kh8dk$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > Just because it's 40 over doesn't necessarily mean it is trash.
> > If the bores and pistons are not worn out, ring it and run it .
> > you don't even need a micrometer to find out, pull the pistons, remove
the
> > rings, measure with a feeler gauge. That doesn't cost anything.
> > Save your money.
> >
> > --
> > Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
> >
> >
>
>

Steve G

From the looks of your pictures you're almost there. Forty over doesn't
mean the engine is scrap. In fact if it's showing very little ridge at the
top of the cyl and it's been bored out it may be a very good candidate for a
re-ring. If I was on a tight budget I would crawl under and attack those
pan bolts and push out that #2 piston. Worst part of the job is lieing
under there taking it apart and putting it back together with oil dripping
in your face. Think of it as a rite of induction into the DIY'er (Do It
Yourself)world.
Before you take the cap off the rod make sure the cap and rod are marked.
Usually there is a stamping oof the cyl # on the rod and cap on the same
side. Cap and rod need to go back exactly as they came apart. If they're
not stamped and you don't have access to stamping numbers, use a centre
punch and put 2 punch marks on the cap and 2 on the rod just above it and so
on for all rods.
Don't know how you'd use a feeler gauge as suggested above to measure
for oversize, but once the pistons out any machine shop can measure it for
you and tell you what oversize if any.
Don't rering just one cyl. Do them all. With as little ridge as there
appears to be on those cylinders if you rering that engine, put a good head
back in you'll get 100,000 miles out of it without problem.
If I recall correctly, the head you removed has new seals on it and you
determined no appreciable guide wear. Another budget DIY'er trick is to
disassemble the head, take all of the valves to the wire wheel on your bench
grinder and clean them up all shiney. Take a wire wheel on a drill to the
cumbustion chamber valve seat area on the head and clean them up. Buy a
valve lapping kit for about $10 and lap the valves in. Very simple
procedure and will show you exactly how much contact you have between valve
and seat and will properly mate them together for a good seal. Throw it
back together and you're good to go.
This whole job could cost you as little as $200 depending on your buying
level. You won't buy much travel time with a new engine for $200. Again, go
to your library and take out a book on general engine repair/overhaul. An
old book is better than a new one as this is the type of work that was
routinely done in the 50's and 60's and seldom done now due to the high cost
of labor and the longevity of engines.
Steve
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c1mqlf$1kpvvv$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Yeah, I haven't given up yet. I'm just laying out contingency plans when
I
> ask for engine sources.......
>
> Plus, when I looked at the 50 or so bolts (exaggerated) that hold up the
oil
> pan and that I'd have to take more things off (starter) to get at the
> passenger's side, I got weary <grin>
>
> Bill
>
>
> "Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
> news:c1mpag$1kh8dk$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > Just because it's 40 over doesn't necessarily mean it is trash.
> > If the bores and pistons are not worn out, ring it and run it .
> > you don't even need a micrometer to find out, pull the pistons, remove
the
> > rings, measure with a feeler gauge. That doesn't cost anything.
> > Save your money.
> >
> > --
> > Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
> >
> >
>
>

Steve G

From the looks of your pictures you're almost there. Forty over doesn't
mean the engine is scrap. In fact if it's showing very little ridge at the
top of the cyl and it's been bored out it may be a very good candidate for a
re-ring. If I was on a tight budget I would crawl under and attack those
pan bolts and push out that #2 piston. Worst part of the job is lieing
under there taking it apart and putting it back together with oil dripping
in your face. Think of it as a rite of induction into the DIY'er (Do It
Yourself)world.
Before you take the cap off the rod make sure the cap and rod are marked.
Usually there is a stamping oof the cyl # on the rod and cap on the same
side. Cap and rod need to go back exactly as they came apart. If they're
not stamped and you don't have access to stamping numbers, use a centre
punch and put 2 punch marks on the cap and 2 on the rod just above it and so
on for all rods.
Don't know how you'd use a feeler gauge as suggested above to measure
for oversize, but once the pistons out any machine shop can measure it for
you and tell you what oversize if any.
Don't rering just one cyl. Do them all. With as little ridge as there
appears to be on those cylinders if you rering that engine, put a good head
back in you'll get 100,000 miles out of it without problem.
If I recall correctly, the head you removed has new seals on it and you
determined no appreciable guide wear. Another budget DIY'er trick is to
disassemble the head, take all of the valves to the wire wheel on your bench
grinder and clean them up all shiney. Take a wire wheel on a drill to the
cumbustion chamber valve seat area on the head and clean them up. Buy a
valve lapping kit for about $10 and lap the valves in. Very simple
procedure and will show you exactly how much contact you have between valve
and seat and will properly mate them together for a good seal. Throw it
back together and you're good to go.
This whole job could cost you as little as $200 depending on your buying
level. You won't buy much travel time with a new engine for $200. Again, go
to your library and take out a book on general engine repair/overhaul. An
old book is better than a new one as this is the type of work that was
routinely done in the 50's and 60's and seldom done now due to the high cost
of labor and the longevity of engines.
Steve
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c1mqlf$1kpvvv$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Yeah, I haven't given up yet. I'm just laying out contingency plans when
I
> ask for engine sources.......
>
> Plus, when I looked at the 50 or so bolts (exaggerated) that hold up the
oil
> pan and that I'd have to take more things off (starter) to get at the
> passenger's side, I got weary <grin>
>
> Bill
>
>
> "Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
> news:c1mpag$1kh8dk$1@ID-87669.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > Just because it's 40 over doesn't necessarily mean it is trash.
> > If the bores and pistons are not worn out, ring it and run it .
> > you don't even need a micrometer to find out, pull the pistons, remove
the
> > rings, measure with a feeler gauge. That doesn't cost anything.
> > Save your money.
> >
> > --
> > Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
> >
> >
>
>

Mike Romain

Too bad you are so far away.

You need someone that knows engines and isn't just out to take you
money.

Something really strange is going on.....

What you are now describing is blow by, big blow by.

You cannot have this with 150 psi compression unless the PCV valve is
just plain broken or shut off from a bad charcoal canister.

What did your air filter look like? It 'must' have been just full of
oil to have the intake with oil pools in it.

If it wasn't full of oil, then you do not have 'blow by'.

You also 'must' have had one big blue cloud following you with the
amount of oil you describe in the intake, no two ways about it. (unless
it is gas wash)

You are aware that a dead charcoal canister will produce enough blow by
to really imitate a blown engine right? It will soak an air filter in a
week.

I am really almost thinking that someone sold you a dead FI system. I
think it was broken and giving them the same fits and strange symptoms
you are getting so they unloaded it on you.

Gas wash is very strange if you haven't seen it before. It takes very
little gas to wash down the dirt and oil and make a messy slurry that
almost looks like oil. This can pool in an intake manifold or into a
piston.

You are describing injectors leaking down and pooling in the intake or
'gas wash'.

Good luck Bill!

I am out of ideas.

Mike

William Oliveri wrote:
>
> I took the intake manifold to a perfomance shop today to have the injector
> in question tested and the mechanic told me it's highly unlikely to be
> cylinder wash. He looked at the intake manifold and saw oil in each
> manifold "finger" (which I didn't see before) and when he opened the
> throttle there was a pool of oil in the there. When I looked in the same
> place when the intake was on the engine I didn't see a drop. I felt and ran
> a q-tip inside the pcv valve hose and didn't come back with any oil stains.
> I put my hand inside the filter hose which connects to the throttle body and
> I didn't feel any oil there either. Of course, this was closer to when I
> started this process and not in the later days. Could be it got worse in
> the end or was pooled in the intake and didn't show up in the throttle body.
> He told me Blow By was going on and I needed a new engine.
>
> Is there anything else that could be going on as I'm getting ansy about
> pulling this piston. Could there be some effect which is affecting only #2?
> Should I have him test #2 injector anyway and see what he finds?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:403E9B6D.FF814819@sympatico.ca...
> > I would 'highly' recommend you get a hold of the shop and try to find
> > out exactly what they did to it and what the invoices mean.
> >
> > I saw a 'generic' rebuilt engine quote.
> >
> > They only fix what is messed up on those kind of quotes....
> >
> > Still looks like a gas washed cylinder to me though...
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > Looks like my pistons are .40 over. There's a 40 on top of the pistons.