L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Hi Mike,
I'm with you, the hand held compression tester tells me all I need
to know.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> Put down the tools and run away fast until the compression tester
> comes....
>
> A leak down test tells you crap. It just tells you you have a leak.
> Umm yup if you didn't have a leak you wouldn't be screwing around right?
>
> A dry and if needed wet compression test tells all.
>
> I mentioned a long time ago that you sure sound like you need a valve
> job. My guess still seems right...
>
> I mean for sure you have one dead valve. If that is the one with the
> mushroomed top, then you have a dead rocker arm and a dead push rod and
> likely a dead hydraulic lifer that caused all the damage.
>
> That was you with the 'timing' ping at idle wasn't it?
>
> I mean a valve job and a couple parts are pretty cheap.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Hi Mike,
I'm with you, the hand held compression tester tells me all I need
to know.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> Put down the tools and run away fast until the compression tester
> comes....
>
> A leak down test tells you crap. It just tells you you have a leak.
> Umm yup if you didn't have a leak you wouldn't be screwing around right?
>
> A dry and if needed wet compression test tells all.
>
> I mentioned a long time ago that you sure sound like you need a valve
> job. My guess still seems right...
>
> I mean for sure you have one dead valve. If that is the one with the
> mushroomed top, then you have a dead rocker arm and a dead push rod and
> likely a dead hydraulic lifer that caused all the damage.
>
> That was you with the 'timing' ping at idle wasn't it?
>
> I mean a valve job and a couple parts are pretty cheap.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Robert Bills

> Is this the place you're talking about?
>
>Orange Engine Rebuilding
> Address: 1911 E Ball Rd, Anaheim, CA 92805
> Phone: (714) 635-4030

Yes.

Robert Bills
KG6LMV
Orange County CA

http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm
http://www.RobertBills.com

Robert Bills

> Is this the place you're talking about?
>
>Orange Engine Rebuilding
> Address: 1911 E Ball Rd, Anaheim, CA 92805
> Phone: (714) 635-4030

Yes.

Robert Bills
KG6LMV
Orange County CA

http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm
http://www.RobertBills.com

Robert Bills

> Is this the place you're talking about?
>
>Orange Engine Rebuilding
> Address: 1911 E Ball Rd, Anaheim, CA 92805
> Phone: (714) 635-4030

Yes.

Robert Bills
KG6LMV
Orange County CA

http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm
http://www.RobertBills.com

Busahaulic

If your comp gauge doesn't hold, it's probably the check
valve leaking or missing - Same valve as a tire Schrader
valve - use a two-pronged tire valve tool to unscrew it and
screw a new one in. OR swing by a tire shop and ask them to
put a new valve in your compression gauge for you. Cost
should be Zero or very nearly so.
When you do your comp tests: Ground coil hi tension lead or
disconnect positive low-voltage lead from the coil.
Remove ALL the sparkplugs at once. Have a pad to write down
what you get for a high reading. Throttle wide open for all
tests. Turn engine over while watching gauge needle - don't
stop until at least a couple revolutions after the highest
reading. Do all of 'em, then squirt some SAE 30 oil
(preferably, or 40 but you CAN use any engine oil) in half
the holes and spin it over a couple turns. Check compression
on those holes. Squirt and check other holes. If you have
one that is down, put the sparkplug back into the hole NEXT
to it and try the low one again - No change? then put the
sparkplug into the hole on the other side of it and try
again. If adding the plug to the hole either side of the
hole in question causes an appreciable increase in
compression, you have a leak between cylinders - most likely
a head gasket. If adding oil gets you from say, 20psi up to
90psi or similar, expect rings not sealing. Ring problems
don't normally occur in only one cylinder unless something
was ingested and got into that hole, but then you prolly
have a bent valve and a hole in the piston!
I'm just passing through here - my last Jeep was a WW2 and
some 30 years ago, but this IS an inline 6cyl you're
discussing here isn't it? They usually have the intake ports
grouped - that is, #1 intake is the second valve and #2
intake is the first valve. Look at how the exhaust manifold
bolts on - Is there a single "pipe" (I realize it's probably
a casting) at each end and all the other connections are
wider? If so, it goes E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E.

Further notes: Do all your checks with the same compression
gauge. Don't expect anything you get to correspond with what
somebody else gets with their compression gauge or a
different engine. You are looking at the relative values on
your engine. When discussing this with anybody else, you
need to tell them what your "highs" are as well as your
"lows." One compression gauge may read 100 where another
one might read 120. Also, when you add oil, don't let a lot
of time lapse before the comp test. Ideally you would squirt
one hole, turn two revolutions, run test; then suirt the
next hole, turn two revolutions, run test. Be consistent in
how you do it each time. Also make a mental note if one or
two take a lot longer to pump up, but get up to a relatively
high value.
Hope I've helped!
William Oliveri <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c05kpf$12n9hs$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Thanks Mike for bringing humor to my otherwise difficult
situation.
>
> 1. Yes, I'm the one at idle who had what I thought was
ping. However, in
> retrospect, I remember when I put the aluminum valve cover
on it requred
> studless rocker arm bridges which I changed out. I didn't
take out the
> rocker arm rods so I know they were in the correct place
but I didn't return
> the rocker arms back to the original place unless I got
lucky. I didn't
> know about the importance of returning used parts to the
original places and
> I'm suspecting this was causinging the noise. I fall to
this because I took
> the jeep to 2 shops and they could not hear a ping. One
shop said the noise
> was coming from the valve train and the other shop said I
was chasing a
> ghost (they did dyno testing and rebuilding there).
>
> 2. The valve with the "mushroomed top" was not mushroomed
and it wasn't this
> valve. There were all together about 6 valves which had
this and this was a
> little rim/lip big enough to cause a barrier to prevent
the valve seal from
> going on. A little light filing and that took care of
that, the all went
> on. Again, this was not on #2 cylinder.
>
> 3. I did a compression test with my cheezy flea market
find compression
> tester (works fine but doesn't keep the air pumped into
the guage). This
> gave me a reading of 100 psi across all cylinders except
#2 which was 110.
> I think when I get a good tester it will read closer to
what the mechanic
> read which was 150 psi.
>
>
> So, you think the head can be reworked and I'm good to go?
I'll go and get
> a compression tester tomorrow (today tied up) and I don't
mind doing the
> work to replace the head if I'm sure it's the head. How
can I be sure it's
> the head that's the problem and not the rings?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40264D3C.785FEF33@sympatico.ca...
> > Put down the tools and run away fast until the
compression tester
> > comes....
> >
> > A leak down test tells you crap. It just tells you you
have a leak.
> > Umm yup if you didn't have a leak you wouldn't be
screwing around right?
> >
> > A dry and if needed wet compression test tells all.
> >
> > I mentioned a long time ago that you sure sound like you
need a valve
> > job. My guess still seems right...
> >
> > I mean for sure you have one dead valve. If that is the
one with the
> > mushroomed top, then you have a dead rocker arm and a
dead push rod and
> > likely a dead hydraulic lifer that caused all the
damage.
> >
> > That was you with the 'timing' ping at idle wasn't it?
> >
> > I mean a valve job and a couple parts are pretty cheap.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail
in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > While waiting for my leak down tester to arrive I
rechecked my valve
> seals
> > > on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect
condition. When I
> did
> > > this I used the air compressor as before to hold the
valve up while I
> took
> > > the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal.
For each valve I
> also
> > > placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem
and attached a
> long
> > > nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I
released the air in
> the
> > > cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I
can then move the
> stem
> > > back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I
felt some noticeable
> > > play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is
intake and which is
> > > exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L
head had play. The
> one
> > > to the rear did not.
> > >
> > > Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong
with the work I had
> done
> > > on this valve.
> > >
> > > However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm
when the leak down
> > > tester arrives and that is when I released the air
from #2 I heard only
> a
> > > small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I
checked #1 with the
> same
> > > method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms
have been released
> so
> > > the valves are closed) and I got a very long
hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
> > > Much different response. I'm going to confirm this
with the leak down
> > > tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
> > >
> > > In anticipation I have several options to remedy this
situation if #2
> leak
> > > down is bad.
> > >
> > > Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5
cylinders are good,
> > > replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done
with it. A lot of
> > > work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against
the wall on time.
> > > The only problem with this scenario is if I get in
there and find some
> worse
> > > problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or
equipment or might
> get
> > > kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it
towed and go to
> option
> > > #2.
> > >
> > > Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the
engine, clean it,
> bore
> > > it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k
installed. Turn
> around
> > > is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
> > >
> > > Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
> > > http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place
to put it in.
> They
> > > charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine
with a 7 year 70,000
> mile
> > > warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to
JasperEngines.
> > >
> > > They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year
36,000 mile
> warranty.
> > >
> > > http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
> > > http://www.jasperengines.com/
> > >
> > > I don't know why Jasper is double the price of
rebuilt-jeep-engines.
> > > Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the
narrower scope of
> > > product line they can offer a better price. Has
anyone ever dealt with
> RJE
> > > or Jasper?
> > >
> > > Any advice or comments on this or other I have written
above are
> welcome.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
>
>

Busahaulic

If your comp gauge doesn't hold, it's probably the check
valve leaking or missing - Same valve as a tire Schrader
valve - use a two-pronged tire valve tool to unscrew it and
screw a new one in. OR swing by a tire shop and ask them to
put a new valve in your compression gauge for you. Cost
should be Zero or very nearly so.
When you do your comp tests: Ground coil hi tension lead or
disconnect positive low-voltage lead from the coil.
Remove ALL the sparkplugs at once. Have a pad to write down
what you get for a high reading. Throttle wide open for all
tests. Turn engine over while watching gauge needle - don't
stop until at least a couple revolutions after the highest
reading. Do all of 'em, then squirt some SAE 30 oil
(preferably, or 40 but you CAN use any engine oil) in half
the holes and spin it over a couple turns. Check compression
on those holes. Squirt and check other holes. If you have
one that is down, put the sparkplug back into the hole NEXT
to it and try the low one again - No change? then put the
sparkplug into the hole on the other side of it and try
again. If adding the plug to the hole either side of the
hole in question causes an appreciable increase in
compression, you have a leak between cylinders - most likely
a head gasket. If adding oil gets you from say, 20psi up to
90psi or similar, expect rings not sealing. Ring problems
don't normally occur in only one cylinder unless something
was ingested and got into that hole, but then you prolly
have a bent valve and a hole in the piston!
I'm just passing through here - my last Jeep was a WW2 and
some 30 years ago, but this IS an inline 6cyl you're
discussing here isn't it? They usually have the intake ports
grouped - that is, #1 intake is the second valve and #2
intake is the first valve. Look at how the exhaust manifold
bolts on - Is there a single "pipe" (I realize it's probably
a casting) at each end and all the other connections are
wider? If so, it goes E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E.

Further notes: Do all your checks with the same compression
gauge. Don't expect anything you get to correspond with what
somebody else gets with their compression gauge or a
different engine. You are looking at the relative values on
your engine. When discussing this with anybody else, you
need to tell them what your "highs" are as well as your
"lows." One compression gauge may read 100 where another
one might read 120. Also, when you add oil, don't let a lot
of time lapse before the comp test. Ideally you would squirt
one hole, turn two revolutions, run test; then suirt the
next hole, turn two revolutions, run test. Be consistent in
how you do it each time. Also make a mental note if one or
two take a lot longer to pump up, but get up to a relatively
high value.
Hope I've helped!
William Oliveri <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c05kpf$12n9hs$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Thanks Mike for bringing humor to my otherwise difficult
situation.
>
> 1. Yes, I'm the one at idle who had what I thought was
ping. However, in
> retrospect, I remember when I put the aluminum valve cover
on it requred
> studless rocker arm bridges which I changed out. I didn't
take out the
> rocker arm rods so I know they were in the correct place
but I didn't return
> the rocker arms back to the original place unless I got
lucky. I didn't
> know about the importance of returning used parts to the
original places and
> I'm suspecting this was causinging the noise. I fall to
this because I took
> the jeep to 2 shops and they could not hear a ping. One
shop said the noise
> was coming from the valve train and the other shop said I
was chasing a
> ghost (they did dyno testing and rebuilding there).
>
> 2. The valve with the "mushroomed top" was not mushroomed
and it wasn't this
> valve. There were all together about 6 valves which had
this and this was a
> little rim/lip big enough to cause a barrier to prevent
the valve seal from
> going on. A little light filing and that took care of
that, the all went
> on. Again, this was not on #2 cylinder.
>
> 3. I did a compression test with my cheezy flea market
find compression
> tester (works fine but doesn't keep the air pumped into
the guage). This
> gave me a reading of 100 psi across all cylinders except
#2 which was 110.
> I think when I get a good tester it will read closer to
what the mechanic
> read which was 150 psi.
>
>
> So, you think the head can be reworked and I'm good to go?
I'll go and get
> a compression tester tomorrow (today tied up) and I don't
mind doing the
> work to replace the head if I'm sure it's the head. How
can I be sure it's
> the head that's the problem and not the rings?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40264D3C.785FEF33@sympatico.ca...
> > Put down the tools and run away fast until the
compression tester
> > comes....
> >
> > A leak down test tells you crap. It just tells you you
have a leak.
> > Umm yup if you didn't have a leak you wouldn't be
screwing around right?
> >
> > A dry and if needed wet compression test tells all.
> >
> > I mentioned a long time ago that you sure sound like you
need a valve
> > job. My guess still seems right...
> >
> > I mean for sure you have one dead valve. If that is the
one with the
> > mushroomed top, then you have a dead rocker arm and a
dead push rod and
> > likely a dead hydraulic lifer that caused all the
damage.
> >
> > That was you with the 'timing' ping at idle wasn't it?
> >
> > I mean a valve job and a couple parts are pretty cheap.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail
in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > While waiting for my leak down tester to arrive I
rechecked my valve
> seals
> > > on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect
condition. When I
> did
> > > this I used the air compressor as before to hold the
valve up while I
> took
> > > the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal.
For each valve I
> also
> > > placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem
and attached a
> long
> > > nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I
released the air in
> the
> > > cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I
can then move the
> stem
> > > back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I
felt some noticeable
> > > play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is
intake and which is
> > > exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L
head had play. The
> one
> > > to the rear did not.
> > >
> > > Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong
with the work I had
> done
> > > on this valve.
> > >
> > > However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm
when the leak down
> > > tester arrives and that is when I released the air
from #2 I heard only
> a
> > > small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I
checked #1 with the
> same
> > > method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms
have been released
> so
> > > the valves are closed) and I got a very long
hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
> > > Much different response. I'm going to confirm this
with the leak down
> > > tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
> > >
> > > In anticipation I have several options to remedy this
situation if #2
> leak
> > > down is bad.
> > >
> > > Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5
cylinders are good,
> > > replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done
with it. A lot of
> > > work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against
the wall on time.
> > > The only problem with this scenario is if I get in
there and find some
> worse
> > > problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or
equipment or might
> get
> > > kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it
towed and go to
> option
> > > #2.
> > >
> > > Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the
engine, clean it,
> bore
> > > it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k
installed. Turn
> around
> > > is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
> > >
> > > Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
> > > http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place
to put it in.
> They
> > > charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine
with a 7 year 70,000
> mile
> > > warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to
JasperEngines.
> > >
> > > They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year
36,000 mile
> warranty.
> > >
> > > http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
> > > http://www.jasperengines.com/
> > >
> > > I don't know why Jasper is double the price of
rebuilt-jeep-engines.
> > > Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the
narrower scope of
> > > product line they can offer a better price. Has
anyone ever dealt with
> RJE
> > > or Jasper?
> > >
> > > Any advice or comments on this or other I have written
above are
> welcome.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
>
>

Busahaulic

If your comp gauge doesn't hold, it's probably the check
valve leaking or missing - Same valve as a tire Schrader
valve - use a two-pronged tire valve tool to unscrew it and
screw a new one in. OR swing by a tire shop and ask them to
put a new valve in your compression gauge for you. Cost
should be Zero or very nearly so.
When you do your comp tests: Ground coil hi tension lead or
disconnect positive low-voltage lead from the coil.
Remove ALL the sparkplugs at once. Have a pad to write down
what you get for a high reading. Throttle wide open for all
tests. Turn engine over while watching gauge needle - don't
stop until at least a couple revolutions after the highest
reading. Do all of 'em, then squirt some SAE 30 oil
(preferably, or 40 but you CAN use any engine oil) in half
the holes and spin it over a couple turns. Check compression
on those holes. Squirt and check other holes. If you have
one that is down, put the sparkplug back into the hole NEXT
to it and try the low one again - No change? then put the
sparkplug into the hole on the other side of it and try
again. If adding the plug to the hole either side of the
hole in question causes an appreciable increase in
compression, you have a leak between cylinders - most likely
a head gasket. If adding oil gets you from say, 20psi up to
90psi or similar, expect rings not sealing. Ring problems
don't normally occur in only one cylinder unless something
was ingested and got into that hole, but then you prolly
have a bent valve and a hole in the piston!
I'm just passing through here - my last Jeep was a WW2 and
some 30 years ago, but this IS an inline 6cyl you're
discussing here isn't it? They usually have the intake ports
grouped - that is, #1 intake is the second valve and #2
intake is the first valve. Look at how the exhaust manifold
bolts on - Is there a single "pipe" (I realize it's probably
a casting) at each end and all the other connections are
wider? If so, it goes E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E.

Further notes: Do all your checks with the same compression
gauge. Don't expect anything you get to correspond with what
somebody else gets with their compression gauge or a
different engine. You are looking at the relative values on
your engine. When discussing this with anybody else, you
need to tell them what your "highs" are as well as your
"lows." One compression gauge may read 100 where another
one might read 120. Also, when you add oil, don't let a lot
of time lapse before the comp test. Ideally you would squirt
one hole, turn two revolutions, run test; then suirt the
next hole, turn two revolutions, run test. Be consistent in
how you do it each time. Also make a mental note if one or
two take a lot longer to pump up, but get up to a relatively
high value.
Hope I've helped!
William Oliveri <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c05kpf$12n9hs$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Thanks Mike for bringing humor to my otherwise difficult
situation.
>
> 1. Yes, I'm the one at idle who had what I thought was
ping. However, in
> retrospect, I remember when I put the aluminum valve cover
on it requred
> studless rocker arm bridges which I changed out. I didn't
take out the
> rocker arm rods so I know they were in the correct place
but I didn't return
> the rocker arms back to the original place unless I got
lucky. I didn't
> know about the importance of returning used parts to the
original places and
> I'm suspecting this was causinging the noise. I fall to
this because I took
> the jeep to 2 shops and they could not hear a ping. One
shop said the noise
> was coming from the valve train and the other shop said I
was chasing a
> ghost (they did dyno testing and rebuilding there).
>
> 2. The valve with the "mushroomed top" was not mushroomed
and it wasn't this
> valve. There were all together about 6 valves which had
this and this was a
> little rim/lip big enough to cause a barrier to prevent
the valve seal from
> going on. A little light filing and that took care of
that, the all went
> on. Again, this was not on #2 cylinder.
>
> 3. I did a compression test with my cheezy flea market
find compression
> tester (works fine but doesn't keep the air pumped into
the guage). This
> gave me a reading of 100 psi across all cylinders except
#2 which was 110.
> I think when I get a good tester it will read closer to
what the mechanic
> read which was 150 psi.
>
>
> So, you think the head can be reworked and I'm good to go?
I'll go and get
> a compression tester tomorrow (today tied up) and I don't
mind doing the
> work to replace the head if I'm sure it's the head. How
can I be sure it's
> the head that's the problem and not the rings?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40264D3C.785FEF33@sympatico.ca...
> > Put down the tools and run away fast until the
compression tester
> > comes....
> >
> > A leak down test tells you crap. It just tells you you
have a leak.
> > Umm yup if you didn't have a leak you wouldn't be
screwing around right?
> >
> > A dry and if needed wet compression test tells all.
> >
> > I mentioned a long time ago that you sure sound like you
need a valve
> > job. My guess still seems right...
> >
> > I mean for sure you have one dead valve. If that is the
one with the
> > mushroomed top, then you have a dead rocker arm and a
dead push rod and
> > likely a dead hydraulic lifer that caused all the
damage.
> >
> > That was you with the 'timing' ping at idle wasn't it?
> >
> > I mean a valve job and a couple parts are pretty cheap.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail
in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > While waiting for my leak down tester to arrive I
rechecked my valve
> seals
> > > on #2 and the were installed correctly and in perfect
condition. When I
> did
> > > this I used the air compressor as before to hold the
valve up while I
> took
> > > the keepers and spring off and inspected the seal.
For each valve I
> also
> > > placed a strip of rubber matting around the valve stem
and attached a
> long
> > > nosed vice grip firmly to the valve stem. Then I
released the air in
> the
> > > cylinder and allow the valve to drop down a bit. I
can then move the
> stem
> > > back and forth and feel for play. On one of them I
felt some noticeable
> > > play and the other I didn't. I don't know which is
intake and which is
> > > exhaust but the one closer to the front on the 4.2L
head had play. The
> one
> > > to the rear did not.
> > >
> > > Anyway, I put it back together seeing nothing wrong
with the work I had
> done
> > > on this valve.
> > >
> > > However, I did notice one thing which I will confirm
when the leak down
> > > tester arrives and that is when I released the air
from #2 I heard only
> a
> > > small release of built up air (a slight psst ). I
checked #1 with the
> same
> > > method (apply air to a cylinder where the rocker arms
have been released
> so
> > > the valves are closed) and I got a very long
hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.
> > > Much different response. I'm going to confirm this
with the leak down
> > > tester but I'm getting that sinking feeling now.
> > >
> > > In anticipation I have several options to remedy this
situation if #2
> leak
> > > down is bad.
> > >
> > > Option 1. If the leak down tests on the remaining 5
cylinders are good,
> > > replace the rings on the problem cylinder and be done
with it. A lot of
> > > work for just one cylinder but I'm becoming up against
the wall on time.
> > > The only problem with this scenario is if I get in
there and find some
> worse
> > > problem. Since I can't pull the engine (no space or
equipment or might
> get
> > > kicked out of my appt) I'll have to end up having it
towed and go to
> option
> > > #2.
> > >
> > > Option 2. There's a place in town that will put the
engine, clean it,
> bore
> > > it once over, rebuild it and put it back in for 2k
installed. Turn
> around
> > > is a week. Warranty is 12 months.
> > >
> > > Option 3. Buy a remanufactured engine from
> > > http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/ and find a place
to put it in.
> They
> > > charge a little over 1100 for a replacement engine
with a 7 year 70,000
> mile
> > > warranty. Sounds pretty good to me compared to
JasperEngines.
> > >
> > > They charge double for the same engine with a 3 year
36,000 mile
> warranty.
> > >
> > > http://www.rebuilt-jeep-engines.com/
> > > http://www.jasperengines.com/
> > >
> > > I don't know why Jasper is double the price of
rebuilt-jeep-engines.
> > > Perhaps RJE does only jeep engines and because of the
narrower scope of
> > > product line they can offer a better price. Has
anyone ever dealt with
> RJE
> > > or Jasper?
> > >
> > > Any advice or comments on this or other I have written
above are
> welcome.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
>
>

William Oliveri

"Busahaulic" <pearson.d@worldnetobvious.att.net> wrote in message
news:xbAVb.2519$fV5.79479@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
Also make a mental note if one or
> two take a lot longer to pump up, but get up to a relatively high value.
> Hope I've helped!


What would it mean when one or two take a lot longer to pump up but get to a
relatively high value?

thanks,

Bill

William Oliveri

"Busahaulic" <pearson.d@worldnetobvious.att.net> wrote in message
news:xbAVb.2519$fV5.79479@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
Also make a mental note if one or
> two take a lot longer to pump up, but get up to a relatively high value.
> Hope I've helped!


What would it mean when one or two take a lot longer to pump up but get to a
relatively high value?

thanks,

Bill