Dana 35c Overhaul questions
#101
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Gotta go your direction here, Bill, but have always first tried the
fit with the original shims +- the correction for the pinion marking.
AIR, something like 3 out of 4 were right that way - but that 1-in-4
could vary from real close to WTF? I always treated that as a
starting point, especially if a single bearing set was changed (pinion
or carrier - yeah, I did change only the bad one when bucks were
tight). That said, I rarely found the original shims even in the ball
park if both bearing sets were changed at once.
I still have what's left of a fairly large tube of prussian blue and a
1955 version of the Motors Manual that has a GOOD set of pictures
showing all sorts of contact patterns for both good and bad drive and
coast side patterns. I once had an old German cabinet maker for a
shop teacher and I will never forget what he used to say:
"Der's two vays to do 'tings: right und ofer".
On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 16:15:28 UTC L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Steve, just like no two differential housings are alike, so be every
> other part in the assembly, bearings by the same manufacture are close,
> but do change design and other manufacturers are differently different,
> as we see especially with wheel bearings. but, then that's why we
> automatically recheck the specs, and I'll say again, every time there's
> a change in bearings there must be a change in shims. PERIOD!
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > The purpose in pointing out the pinion depth markings on the head of the
> > pinion is to illustrate to the other readers that are relying on these
> > posts for accurate information that you are full of ----. The fact that
> > pinion depth is measured and marked on a pinion without using the bearings
> > that will be installed with this pinion shows that the pinion depth is
> > independant of the bearings. Proving without refute that your statement
> > that if he replaces the bearings he must re-shim the pinion is ABSOLUTELY A
> > CROCK OF ----.
--
Will Honea
fit with the original shims +- the correction for the pinion marking.
AIR, something like 3 out of 4 were right that way - but that 1-in-4
could vary from real close to WTF? I always treated that as a
starting point, especially if a single bearing set was changed (pinion
or carrier - yeah, I did change only the bad one when bucks were
tight). That said, I rarely found the original shims even in the ball
park if both bearing sets were changed at once.
I still have what's left of a fairly large tube of prussian blue and a
1955 version of the Motors Manual that has a GOOD set of pictures
showing all sorts of contact patterns for both good and bad drive and
coast side patterns. I once had an old German cabinet maker for a
shop teacher and I will never forget what he used to say:
"Der's two vays to do 'tings: right und ofer".
On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 16:15:28 UTC L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Steve, just like no two differential housings are alike, so be every
> other part in the assembly, bearings by the same manufacture are close,
> but do change design and other manufacturers are differently different,
> as we see especially with wheel bearings. but, then that's why we
> automatically recheck the specs, and I'll say again, every time there's
> a change in bearings there must be a change in shims. PERIOD!
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > The purpose in pointing out the pinion depth markings on the head of the
> > pinion is to illustrate to the other readers that are relying on these
> > posts for accurate information that you are full of ----. The fact that
> > pinion depth is measured and marked on a pinion without using the bearings
> > that will be installed with this pinion shows that the pinion depth is
> > independant of the bearings. Proving without refute that your statement
> > that if he replaces the bearings he must re-shim the pinion is ABSOLUTELY A
> > CROCK OF ----.
--
Will Honea
#102
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
I believe in Motors, too. Just bought one:
http://www.----------.com/BofAMotor.jpg A cool hundred more than my last
one for '78 I still have that and a '70 the ten others I have bought had
feet and walked off. :-( Someday I'll get to the swap meet and buy
another '49.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Will Honea wrote:
>
> Gotta go your direction here, Bill, but have always first tried the
> fit with the original shims +- the correction for the pinion marking.
> AIR, something like 3 out of 4 were right that way - but that 1-in-4
> could vary from real close to WTF? I always treated that as a
> starting point, especially if a single bearing set was changed (pinion
> or carrier - yeah, I did change only the bad one when bucks were
> tight). That said, I rarely found the original shims even in the ball
> park if both bearing sets were changed at once.
>
> I still have what's left of a fairly large tube of prussian blue and a
> 1955 version of the Motors Manual that has a GOOD set of pictures
> showing all sorts of contact patterns for both good and bad drive and
> coast side patterns. I once had an old German cabinet maker for a
> shop teacher and I will never forget what he used to say:
>
> "Der's two vays to do 'tings: right und ofer".
http://www.----------.com/BofAMotor.jpg A cool hundred more than my last
one for '78 I still have that and a '70 the ten others I have bought had
feet and walked off. :-( Someday I'll get to the swap meet and buy
another '49.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Will Honea wrote:
>
> Gotta go your direction here, Bill, but have always first tried the
> fit with the original shims +- the correction for the pinion marking.
> AIR, something like 3 out of 4 were right that way - but that 1-in-4
> could vary from real close to WTF? I always treated that as a
> starting point, especially if a single bearing set was changed (pinion
> or carrier - yeah, I did change only the bad one when bucks were
> tight). That said, I rarely found the original shims even in the ball
> park if both bearing sets were changed at once.
>
> I still have what's left of a fairly large tube of prussian blue and a
> 1955 version of the Motors Manual that has a GOOD set of pictures
> showing all sorts of contact patterns for both good and bad drive and
> coast side patterns. I once had an old German cabinet maker for a
> shop teacher and I will never forget what he used to say:
>
> "Der's two vays to do 'tings: right und ofer".
#103
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
I believe in Motors, too. Just bought one:
http://www.----------.com/BofAMotor.jpg A cool hundred more than my last
one for '78 I still have that and a '70 the ten others I have bought had
feet and walked off. :-( Someday I'll get to the swap meet and buy
another '49.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Will Honea wrote:
>
> Gotta go your direction here, Bill, but have always first tried the
> fit with the original shims +- the correction for the pinion marking.
> AIR, something like 3 out of 4 were right that way - but that 1-in-4
> could vary from real close to WTF? I always treated that as a
> starting point, especially if a single bearing set was changed (pinion
> or carrier - yeah, I did change only the bad one when bucks were
> tight). That said, I rarely found the original shims even in the ball
> park if both bearing sets were changed at once.
>
> I still have what's left of a fairly large tube of prussian blue and a
> 1955 version of the Motors Manual that has a GOOD set of pictures
> showing all sorts of contact patterns for both good and bad drive and
> coast side patterns. I once had an old German cabinet maker for a
> shop teacher and I will never forget what he used to say:
>
> "Der's two vays to do 'tings: right und ofer".
http://www.----------.com/BofAMotor.jpg A cool hundred more than my last
one for '78 I still have that and a '70 the ten others I have bought had
feet and walked off. :-( Someday I'll get to the swap meet and buy
another '49.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Will Honea wrote:
>
> Gotta go your direction here, Bill, but have always first tried the
> fit with the original shims +- the correction for the pinion marking.
> AIR, something like 3 out of 4 were right that way - but that 1-in-4
> could vary from real close to WTF? I always treated that as a
> starting point, especially if a single bearing set was changed (pinion
> or carrier - yeah, I did change only the bad one when bucks were
> tight). That said, I rarely found the original shims even in the ball
> park if both bearing sets were changed at once.
>
> I still have what's left of a fairly large tube of prussian blue and a
> 1955 version of the Motors Manual that has a GOOD set of pictures
> showing all sorts of contact patterns for both good and bad drive and
> coast side patterns. I once had an old German cabinet maker for a
> shop teacher and I will never forget what he used to say:
>
> "Der's two vays to do 'tings: right und ofer".
#104
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
I believe in Motors, too. Just bought one:
http://www.----------.com/BofAMotor.jpg A cool hundred more than my last
one for '78 I still have that and a '70 the ten others I have bought had
feet and walked off. :-( Someday I'll get to the swap meet and buy
another '49.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Will Honea wrote:
>
> Gotta go your direction here, Bill, but have always first tried the
> fit with the original shims +- the correction for the pinion marking.
> AIR, something like 3 out of 4 were right that way - but that 1-in-4
> could vary from real close to WTF? I always treated that as a
> starting point, especially if a single bearing set was changed (pinion
> or carrier - yeah, I did change only the bad one when bucks were
> tight). That said, I rarely found the original shims even in the ball
> park if both bearing sets were changed at once.
>
> I still have what's left of a fairly large tube of prussian blue and a
> 1955 version of the Motors Manual that has a GOOD set of pictures
> showing all sorts of contact patterns for both good and bad drive and
> coast side patterns. I once had an old German cabinet maker for a
> shop teacher and I will never forget what he used to say:
>
> "Der's two vays to do 'tings: right und ofer".
http://www.----------.com/BofAMotor.jpg A cool hundred more than my last
one for '78 I still have that and a '70 the ten others I have bought had
feet and walked off. :-( Someday I'll get to the swap meet and buy
another '49.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Will Honea wrote:
>
> Gotta go your direction here, Bill, but have always first tried the
> fit with the original shims +- the correction for the pinion marking.
> AIR, something like 3 out of 4 were right that way - but that 1-in-4
> could vary from real close to WTF? I always treated that as a
> starting point, especially if a single bearing set was changed (pinion
> or carrier - yeah, I did change only the bad one when bucks were
> tight). That said, I rarely found the original shims even in the ball
> park if both bearing sets were changed at once.
>
> I still have what's left of a fairly large tube of prussian blue and a
> 1955 version of the Motors Manual that has a GOOD set of pictures
> showing all sorts of contact patterns for both good and bad drive and
> coast side patterns. I once had an old German cabinet maker for a
> shop teacher and I will never forget what he used to say:
>
> "Der's two vays to do 'tings: right und ofer".
#105
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
I believe in Motors, too. Just bought one:
http://www.----------.com/BofAMotor.jpg A cool hundred more than my last
one for '78 I still have that and a '70 the ten others I have bought had
feet and walked off. :-( Someday I'll get to the swap meet and buy
another '49.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Will Honea wrote:
>
> Gotta go your direction here, Bill, but have always first tried the
> fit with the original shims +- the correction for the pinion marking.
> AIR, something like 3 out of 4 were right that way - but that 1-in-4
> could vary from real close to WTF? I always treated that as a
> starting point, especially if a single bearing set was changed (pinion
> or carrier - yeah, I did change only the bad one when bucks were
> tight). That said, I rarely found the original shims even in the ball
> park if both bearing sets were changed at once.
>
> I still have what's left of a fairly large tube of prussian blue and a
> 1955 version of the Motors Manual that has a GOOD set of pictures
> showing all sorts of contact patterns for both good and bad drive and
> coast side patterns. I once had an old German cabinet maker for a
> shop teacher and I will never forget what he used to say:
>
> "Der's two vays to do 'tings: right und ofer".
http://www.----------.com/BofAMotor.jpg A cool hundred more than my last
one for '78 I still have that and a '70 the ten others I have bought had
feet and walked off. :-( Someday I'll get to the swap meet and buy
another '49.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
Will Honea wrote:
>
> Gotta go your direction here, Bill, but have always first tried the
> fit with the original shims +- the correction for the pinion marking.
> AIR, something like 3 out of 4 were right that way - but that 1-in-4
> could vary from real close to WTF? I always treated that as a
> starting point, especially if a single bearing set was changed (pinion
> or carrier - yeah, I did change only the bad one when bucks were
> tight). That said, I rarely found the original shims even in the ball
> park if both bearing sets were changed at once.
>
> I still have what's left of a fairly large tube of prussian blue and a
> 1955 version of the Motors Manual that has a GOOD set of pictures
> showing all sorts of contact patterns for both good and bad drive and
> coast side patterns. I once had an old German cabinet maker for a
> shop teacher and I will never forget what he used to say:
>
> "Der's two vays to do 'tings: right und ofer".
#110
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
One final question for now.
When torqueing down the pinion nut to get the proper amount of
preload, how often do you stop torqueing and check with the
inchpound wrench? One instruction I saw, may have been for a
different axle, said torque to minimum torque spec (about 170 ft.
lbs) and then check every five (maybe it said ten, can't
remember) foot pounds with inchpound wrench until reaching proper
preload. That might require stopping and starting from 20 to 40
times or more before crushing the sleeve and reaching the proper
preload.
Using this technique, I guess a torque wrench could be helpful
when working in the 300 to 400 ft lb range.
How do you guys do it???
Thanks again for all the good info.
Troy
When torqueing down the pinion nut to get the proper amount of
preload, how often do you stop torqueing and check with the
inchpound wrench? One instruction I saw, may have been for a
different axle, said torque to minimum torque spec (about 170 ft.
lbs) and then check every five (maybe it said ten, can't
remember) foot pounds with inchpound wrench until reaching proper
preload. That might require stopping and starting from 20 to 40
times or more before crushing the sleeve and reaching the proper
preload.
Using this technique, I guess a torque wrench could be helpful
when working in the 300 to 400 ft lb range.
How do you guys do it???
Thanks again for all the good info.
Troy