Dana 35c Overhaul questions
#91
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Steve, just like no two differential housings are alike, so be every
other part in the assembly, bearings by the same manufacture are close,
but do change design and other manufacturers are differently different,
as we see especially with wheel bearings. but, then that's why we
automatically recheck the specs, and I'll say again, every time there's
a change in bearings there must be a change in shims. PERIOD!
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Steve G wrote:
>
> The purpose in pointing out the pinion depth markings on the head of the
> pinion is to illustrate to the other readers that are relying on these
> posts for accurate information that you are full of ----. The fact that
> pinion depth is measured and marked on a pinion without using the bearings
> that will be installed with this pinion shows that the pinion depth is
> independant of the bearings. Proving without refute that your statement
> that if he replaces the bearings he must re-shim the pinion is ABSOLUTELY A
> CROCK OF ----.
other part in the assembly, bearings by the same manufacture are close,
but do change design and other manufacturers are differently different,
as we see especially with wheel bearings. but, then that's why we
automatically recheck the specs, and I'll say again, every time there's
a change in bearings there must be a change in shims. PERIOD!
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Steve G wrote:
>
> The purpose in pointing out the pinion depth markings on the head of the
> pinion is to illustrate to the other readers that are relying on these
> posts for accurate information that you are full of ----. The fact that
> pinion depth is measured and marked on a pinion without using the bearings
> that will be installed with this pinion shows that the pinion depth is
> independant of the bearings. Proving without refute that your statement
> that if he replaces the bearings he must re-shim the pinion is ABSOLUTELY A
> CROCK OF ----.
#92
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Steve, just like no two differential housings are alike, so be every
other part in the assembly, bearings by the same manufacture are close,
but do change design and other manufacturers are differently different,
as we see especially with wheel bearings. but, then that's why we
automatically recheck the specs, and I'll say again, every time there's
a change in bearings there must be a change in shims. PERIOD!
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Steve G wrote:
>
> The purpose in pointing out the pinion depth markings on the head of the
> pinion is to illustrate to the other readers that are relying on these
> posts for accurate information that you are full of ----. The fact that
> pinion depth is measured and marked on a pinion without using the bearings
> that will be installed with this pinion shows that the pinion depth is
> independant of the bearings. Proving without refute that your statement
> that if he replaces the bearings he must re-shim the pinion is ABSOLUTELY A
> CROCK OF ----.
other part in the assembly, bearings by the same manufacture are close,
but do change design and other manufacturers are differently different,
as we see especially with wheel bearings. but, then that's why we
automatically recheck the specs, and I'll say again, every time there's
a change in bearings there must be a change in shims. PERIOD!
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Steve G wrote:
>
> The purpose in pointing out the pinion depth markings on the head of the
> pinion is to illustrate to the other readers that are relying on these
> posts for accurate information that you are full of ----. The fact that
> pinion depth is measured and marked on a pinion without using the bearings
> that will be installed with this pinion shows that the pinion depth is
> independant of the bearings. Proving without refute that your statement
> that if he replaces the bearings he must re-shim the pinion is ABSOLUTELY A
> CROCK OF ----.
#93
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Steve, just like no two differential housings are alike, so be every
other part in the assembly, bearings by the same manufacture are close,
but do change design and other manufacturers are differently different,
as we see especially with wheel bearings. but, then that's why we
automatically recheck the specs, and I'll say again, every time there's
a change in bearings there must be a change in shims. PERIOD!
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Steve G wrote:
>
> The purpose in pointing out the pinion depth markings on the head of the
> pinion is to illustrate to the other readers that are relying on these
> posts for accurate information that you are full of ----. The fact that
> pinion depth is measured and marked on a pinion without using the bearings
> that will be installed with this pinion shows that the pinion depth is
> independant of the bearings. Proving without refute that your statement
> that if he replaces the bearings he must re-shim the pinion is ABSOLUTELY A
> CROCK OF ----.
other part in the assembly, bearings by the same manufacture are close,
but do change design and other manufacturers are differently different,
as we see especially with wheel bearings. but, then that's why we
automatically recheck the specs, and I'll say again, every time there's
a change in bearings there must be a change in shims. PERIOD!
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Steve G wrote:
>
> The purpose in pointing out the pinion depth markings on the head of the
> pinion is to illustrate to the other readers that are relying on these
> posts for accurate information that you are full of ----. The fact that
> pinion depth is measured and marked on a pinion without using the bearings
> that will be installed with this pinion shows that the pinion depth is
> independant of the bearings. Proving without refute that your statement
> that if he replaces the bearings he must re-shim the pinion is ABSOLUTELY A
> CROCK OF ----.
#94
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Hi Troy,
This is the combination I use:
http://www.----------.com/pipewrench.jpg A two foot pipe wrench, and a
forged L without the little ball that's designed to hold the socket,
that weakens it. It's only about a foot long, so I use the bottle jack
handle to feather the floor jack handle. Use your breaker bar if you
want a nice shinny new one.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
TroyM wrote:
>
> Why would I hesitate? Because of the amount of torque involved
> to crush the sleeve. I have only one crush sleeve, but
> obviously I should have ordered some extra ones. Also, my torque
> wrench only goes up to 250 ftlbs and I'm a bit worried about
> going into the 350 ftlb range without knowing where I am. All
> this worry is because I have never done this before. If I
> thought there was a harmless shortcut, I would take it. But all
> of you
> can rest easy, I will go ahead and install the new crush sleeve
> whichever way I go.
>
> Also, I have all the micrometers, calipers, inlb torque wrench,
> etc. necessary for checking and making sure preloads and backlash
> are within specs. I even have the monster W-129B differential
> case ------er that I miraculously found a while back in a pawn
> shop for fifty bucks.
>
> But I do have tight budget constraints, and if I have to
> re-install the old R&P with new bearings, I will. I've requested
> quotes from various drivetrain shops for a new R&P. If I go the
> route of reusing the old R&P and the noise is still there, or
> worse than before, I will do it all over again with new R&P and
> then I will have had the experience to maybe do a better job. I
> presently have far more time than money, so it would be no big
> deal to do it all over again.
>
> Anyway, all the replies to my query, even with the disagreements,
> have been most helpful. Thanks to all of you!
>
> Troy
This is the combination I use:
http://www.----------.com/pipewrench.jpg A two foot pipe wrench, and a
forged L without the little ball that's designed to hold the socket,
that weakens it. It's only about a foot long, so I use the bottle jack
handle to feather the floor jack handle. Use your breaker bar if you
want a nice shinny new one.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
TroyM wrote:
>
> Why would I hesitate? Because of the amount of torque involved
> to crush the sleeve. I have only one crush sleeve, but
> obviously I should have ordered some extra ones. Also, my torque
> wrench only goes up to 250 ftlbs and I'm a bit worried about
> going into the 350 ftlb range without knowing where I am. All
> this worry is because I have never done this before. If I
> thought there was a harmless shortcut, I would take it. But all
> of you
> can rest easy, I will go ahead and install the new crush sleeve
> whichever way I go.
>
> Also, I have all the micrometers, calipers, inlb torque wrench,
> etc. necessary for checking and making sure preloads and backlash
> are within specs. I even have the monster W-129B differential
> case ------er that I miraculously found a while back in a pawn
> shop for fifty bucks.
>
> But I do have tight budget constraints, and if I have to
> re-install the old R&P with new bearings, I will. I've requested
> quotes from various drivetrain shops for a new R&P. If I go the
> route of reusing the old R&P and the noise is still there, or
> worse than before, I will do it all over again with new R&P and
> then I will have had the experience to maybe do a better job. I
> presently have far more time than money, so it would be no big
> deal to do it all over again.
>
> Anyway, all the replies to my query, even with the disagreements,
> have been most helpful. Thanks to all of you!
>
> Troy
#95
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Hi Troy,
This is the combination I use:
http://www.----------.com/pipewrench.jpg A two foot pipe wrench, and a
forged L without the little ball that's designed to hold the socket,
that weakens it. It's only about a foot long, so I use the bottle jack
handle to feather the floor jack handle. Use your breaker bar if you
want a nice shinny new one.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
TroyM wrote:
>
> Why would I hesitate? Because of the amount of torque involved
> to crush the sleeve. I have only one crush sleeve, but
> obviously I should have ordered some extra ones. Also, my torque
> wrench only goes up to 250 ftlbs and I'm a bit worried about
> going into the 350 ftlb range without knowing where I am. All
> this worry is because I have never done this before. If I
> thought there was a harmless shortcut, I would take it. But all
> of you
> can rest easy, I will go ahead and install the new crush sleeve
> whichever way I go.
>
> Also, I have all the micrometers, calipers, inlb torque wrench,
> etc. necessary for checking and making sure preloads and backlash
> are within specs. I even have the monster W-129B differential
> case ------er that I miraculously found a while back in a pawn
> shop for fifty bucks.
>
> But I do have tight budget constraints, and if I have to
> re-install the old R&P with new bearings, I will. I've requested
> quotes from various drivetrain shops for a new R&P. If I go the
> route of reusing the old R&P and the noise is still there, or
> worse than before, I will do it all over again with new R&P and
> then I will have had the experience to maybe do a better job. I
> presently have far more time than money, so it would be no big
> deal to do it all over again.
>
> Anyway, all the replies to my query, even with the disagreements,
> have been most helpful. Thanks to all of you!
>
> Troy
This is the combination I use:
http://www.----------.com/pipewrench.jpg A two foot pipe wrench, and a
forged L without the little ball that's designed to hold the socket,
that weakens it. It's only about a foot long, so I use the bottle jack
handle to feather the floor jack handle. Use your breaker bar if you
want a nice shinny new one.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
TroyM wrote:
>
> Why would I hesitate? Because of the amount of torque involved
> to crush the sleeve. I have only one crush sleeve, but
> obviously I should have ordered some extra ones. Also, my torque
> wrench only goes up to 250 ftlbs and I'm a bit worried about
> going into the 350 ftlb range without knowing where I am. All
> this worry is because I have never done this before. If I
> thought there was a harmless shortcut, I would take it. But all
> of you
> can rest easy, I will go ahead and install the new crush sleeve
> whichever way I go.
>
> Also, I have all the micrometers, calipers, inlb torque wrench,
> etc. necessary for checking and making sure preloads and backlash
> are within specs. I even have the monster W-129B differential
> case ------er that I miraculously found a while back in a pawn
> shop for fifty bucks.
>
> But I do have tight budget constraints, and if I have to
> re-install the old R&P with new bearings, I will. I've requested
> quotes from various drivetrain shops for a new R&P. If I go the
> route of reusing the old R&P and the noise is still there, or
> worse than before, I will do it all over again with new R&P and
> then I will have had the experience to maybe do a better job. I
> presently have far more time than money, so it would be no big
> deal to do it all over again.
>
> Anyway, all the replies to my query, even with the disagreements,
> have been most helpful. Thanks to all of you!
>
> Troy
#96
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Hi Troy,
This is the combination I use:
http://www.----------.com/pipewrench.jpg A two foot pipe wrench, and a
forged L without the little ball that's designed to hold the socket,
that weakens it. It's only about a foot long, so I use the bottle jack
handle to feather the floor jack handle. Use your breaker bar if you
want a nice shinny new one.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
TroyM wrote:
>
> Why would I hesitate? Because of the amount of torque involved
> to crush the sleeve. I have only one crush sleeve, but
> obviously I should have ordered some extra ones. Also, my torque
> wrench only goes up to 250 ftlbs and I'm a bit worried about
> going into the 350 ftlb range without knowing where I am. All
> this worry is because I have never done this before. If I
> thought there was a harmless shortcut, I would take it. But all
> of you
> can rest easy, I will go ahead and install the new crush sleeve
> whichever way I go.
>
> Also, I have all the micrometers, calipers, inlb torque wrench,
> etc. necessary for checking and making sure preloads and backlash
> are within specs. I even have the monster W-129B differential
> case ------er that I miraculously found a while back in a pawn
> shop for fifty bucks.
>
> But I do have tight budget constraints, and if I have to
> re-install the old R&P with new bearings, I will. I've requested
> quotes from various drivetrain shops for a new R&P. If I go the
> route of reusing the old R&P and the noise is still there, or
> worse than before, I will do it all over again with new R&P and
> then I will have had the experience to maybe do a better job. I
> presently have far more time than money, so it would be no big
> deal to do it all over again.
>
> Anyway, all the replies to my query, even with the disagreements,
> have been most helpful. Thanks to all of you!
>
> Troy
This is the combination I use:
http://www.----------.com/pipewrench.jpg A two foot pipe wrench, and a
forged L without the little ball that's designed to hold the socket,
that weakens it. It's only about a foot long, so I use the bottle jack
handle to feather the floor jack handle. Use your breaker bar if you
want a nice shinny new one.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
TroyM wrote:
>
> Why would I hesitate? Because of the amount of torque involved
> to crush the sleeve. I have only one crush sleeve, but
> obviously I should have ordered some extra ones. Also, my torque
> wrench only goes up to 250 ftlbs and I'm a bit worried about
> going into the 350 ftlb range without knowing where I am. All
> this worry is because I have never done this before. If I
> thought there was a harmless shortcut, I would take it. But all
> of you
> can rest easy, I will go ahead and install the new crush sleeve
> whichever way I go.
>
> Also, I have all the micrometers, calipers, inlb torque wrench,
> etc. necessary for checking and making sure preloads and backlash
> are within specs. I even have the monster W-129B differential
> case ------er that I miraculously found a while back in a pawn
> shop for fifty bucks.
>
> But I do have tight budget constraints, and if I have to
> re-install the old R&P with new bearings, I will. I've requested
> quotes from various drivetrain shops for a new R&P. If I go the
> route of reusing the old R&P and the noise is still there, or
> worse than before, I will do it all over again with new R&P and
> then I will have had the experience to maybe do a better job. I
> presently have far more time than money, so it would be no big
> deal to do it all over again.
>
> Anyway, all the replies to my query, even with the disagreements,
> have been most helpful. Thanks to all of you!
>
> Troy
#97
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Hi Troy,
This is the combination I use:
http://www.----------.com/pipewrench.jpg A two foot pipe wrench, and a
forged L without the little ball that's designed to hold the socket,
that weakens it. It's only about a foot long, so I use the bottle jack
handle to feather the floor jack handle. Use your breaker bar if you
want a nice shinny new one.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
TroyM wrote:
>
> Why would I hesitate? Because of the amount of torque involved
> to crush the sleeve. I have only one crush sleeve, but
> obviously I should have ordered some extra ones. Also, my torque
> wrench only goes up to 250 ftlbs and I'm a bit worried about
> going into the 350 ftlb range without knowing where I am. All
> this worry is because I have never done this before. If I
> thought there was a harmless shortcut, I would take it. But all
> of you
> can rest easy, I will go ahead and install the new crush sleeve
> whichever way I go.
>
> Also, I have all the micrometers, calipers, inlb torque wrench,
> etc. necessary for checking and making sure preloads and backlash
> are within specs. I even have the monster W-129B differential
> case ------er that I miraculously found a while back in a pawn
> shop for fifty bucks.
>
> But I do have tight budget constraints, and if I have to
> re-install the old R&P with new bearings, I will. I've requested
> quotes from various drivetrain shops for a new R&P. If I go the
> route of reusing the old R&P and the noise is still there, or
> worse than before, I will do it all over again with new R&P and
> then I will have had the experience to maybe do a better job. I
> presently have far more time than money, so it would be no big
> deal to do it all over again.
>
> Anyway, all the replies to my query, even with the disagreements,
> have been most helpful. Thanks to all of you!
>
> Troy
This is the combination I use:
http://www.----------.com/pipewrench.jpg A two foot pipe wrench, and a
forged L without the little ball that's designed to hold the socket,
that weakens it. It's only about a foot long, so I use the bottle jack
handle to feather the floor jack handle. Use your breaker bar if you
want a nice shinny new one.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
TroyM wrote:
>
> Why would I hesitate? Because of the amount of torque involved
> to crush the sleeve. I have only one crush sleeve, but
> obviously I should have ordered some extra ones. Also, my torque
> wrench only goes up to 250 ftlbs and I'm a bit worried about
> going into the 350 ftlb range without knowing where I am. All
> this worry is because I have never done this before. If I
> thought there was a harmless shortcut, I would take it. But all
> of you
> can rest easy, I will go ahead and install the new crush sleeve
> whichever way I go.
>
> Also, I have all the micrometers, calipers, inlb torque wrench,
> etc. necessary for checking and making sure preloads and backlash
> are within specs. I even have the monster W-129B differential
> case ------er that I miraculously found a while back in a pawn
> shop for fifty bucks.
>
> But I do have tight budget constraints, and if I have to
> re-install the old R&P with new bearings, I will. I've requested
> quotes from various drivetrain shops for a new R&P. If I go the
> route of reusing the old R&P and the noise is still there, or
> worse than before, I will do it all over again with new R&P and
> then I will have had the experience to maybe do a better job. I
> presently have far more time than money, so it would be no big
> deal to do it all over again.
>
> Anyway, all the replies to my query, even with the disagreements,
> have been most helpful. Thanks to all of you!
>
> Troy
#98
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Gotta go your direction here, Bill, but have always first tried the
fit with the original shims +- the correction for the pinion marking.
AIR, something like 3 out of 4 were right that way - but that 1-in-4
could vary from real close to WTF? I always treated that as a
starting point, especially if a single bearing set was changed (pinion
or carrier - yeah, I did change only the bad one when bucks were
tight). That said, I rarely found the original shims even in the ball
park if both bearing sets were changed at once.
I still have what's left of a fairly large tube of prussian blue and a
1955 version of the Motors Manual that has a GOOD set of pictures
showing all sorts of contact patterns for both good and bad drive and
coast side patterns. I once had an old German cabinet maker for a
shop teacher and I will never forget what he used to say:
"Der's two vays to do 'tings: right und ofer".
On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 16:15:28 UTC L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Steve, just like no two differential housings are alike, so be every
> other part in the assembly, bearings by the same manufacture are close,
> but do change design and other manufacturers are differently different,
> as we see especially with wheel bearings. but, then that's why we
> automatically recheck the specs, and I'll say again, every time there's
> a change in bearings there must be a change in shims. PERIOD!
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > The purpose in pointing out the pinion depth markings on the head of the
> > pinion is to illustrate to the other readers that are relying on these
> > posts for accurate information that you are full of ----. The fact that
> > pinion depth is measured and marked on a pinion without using the bearings
> > that will be installed with this pinion shows that the pinion depth is
> > independant of the bearings. Proving without refute that your statement
> > that if he replaces the bearings he must re-shim the pinion is ABSOLUTELY A
> > CROCK OF ----.
--
Will Honea
fit with the original shims +- the correction for the pinion marking.
AIR, something like 3 out of 4 were right that way - but that 1-in-4
could vary from real close to WTF? I always treated that as a
starting point, especially if a single bearing set was changed (pinion
or carrier - yeah, I did change only the bad one when bucks were
tight). That said, I rarely found the original shims even in the ball
park if both bearing sets were changed at once.
I still have what's left of a fairly large tube of prussian blue and a
1955 version of the Motors Manual that has a GOOD set of pictures
showing all sorts of contact patterns for both good and bad drive and
coast side patterns. I once had an old German cabinet maker for a
shop teacher and I will never forget what he used to say:
"Der's two vays to do 'tings: right und ofer".
On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 16:15:28 UTC L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Steve, just like no two differential housings are alike, so be every
> other part in the assembly, bearings by the same manufacture are close,
> but do change design and other manufacturers are differently different,
> as we see especially with wheel bearings. but, then that's why we
> automatically recheck the specs, and I'll say again, every time there's
> a change in bearings there must be a change in shims. PERIOD!
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > The purpose in pointing out the pinion depth markings on the head of the
> > pinion is to illustrate to the other readers that are relying on these
> > posts for accurate information that you are full of ----. The fact that
> > pinion depth is measured and marked on a pinion without using the bearings
> > that will be installed with this pinion shows that the pinion depth is
> > independant of the bearings. Proving without refute that your statement
> > that if he replaces the bearings he must re-shim the pinion is ABSOLUTELY A
> > CROCK OF ----.
--
Will Honea
#99
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Gotta go your direction here, Bill, but have always first tried the
fit with the original shims +- the correction for the pinion marking.
AIR, something like 3 out of 4 were right that way - but that 1-in-4
could vary from real close to WTF? I always treated that as a
starting point, especially if a single bearing set was changed (pinion
or carrier - yeah, I did change only the bad one when bucks were
tight). That said, I rarely found the original shims even in the ball
park if both bearing sets were changed at once.
I still have what's left of a fairly large tube of prussian blue and a
1955 version of the Motors Manual that has a GOOD set of pictures
showing all sorts of contact patterns for both good and bad drive and
coast side patterns. I once had an old German cabinet maker for a
shop teacher and I will never forget what he used to say:
"Der's two vays to do 'tings: right und ofer".
On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 16:15:28 UTC L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Steve, just like no two differential housings are alike, so be every
> other part in the assembly, bearings by the same manufacture are close,
> but do change design and other manufacturers are differently different,
> as we see especially with wheel bearings. but, then that's why we
> automatically recheck the specs, and I'll say again, every time there's
> a change in bearings there must be a change in shims. PERIOD!
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > The purpose in pointing out the pinion depth markings on the head of the
> > pinion is to illustrate to the other readers that are relying on these
> > posts for accurate information that you are full of ----. The fact that
> > pinion depth is measured and marked on a pinion without using the bearings
> > that will be installed with this pinion shows that the pinion depth is
> > independant of the bearings. Proving without refute that your statement
> > that if he replaces the bearings he must re-shim the pinion is ABSOLUTELY A
> > CROCK OF ----.
--
Will Honea
fit with the original shims +- the correction for the pinion marking.
AIR, something like 3 out of 4 were right that way - but that 1-in-4
could vary from real close to WTF? I always treated that as a
starting point, especially if a single bearing set was changed (pinion
or carrier - yeah, I did change only the bad one when bucks were
tight). That said, I rarely found the original shims even in the ball
park if both bearing sets were changed at once.
I still have what's left of a fairly large tube of prussian blue and a
1955 version of the Motors Manual that has a GOOD set of pictures
showing all sorts of contact patterns for both good and bad drive and
coast side patterns. I once had an old German cabinet maker for a
shop teacher and I will never forget what he used to say:
"Der's two vays to do 'tings: right und ofer".
On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 16:15:28 UTC L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Steve, just like no two differential housings are alike, so be every
> other part in the assembly, bearings by the same manufacture are close,
> but do change design and other manufacturers are differently different,
> as we see especially with wheel bearings. but, then that's why we
> automatically recheck the specs, and I'll say again, every time there's
> a change in bearings there must be a change in shims. PERIOD!
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > The purpose in pointing out the pinion depth markings on the head of the
> > pinion is to illustrate to the other readers that are relying on these
> > posts for accurate information that you are full of ----. The fact that
> > pinion depth is measured and marked on a pinion without using the bearings
> > that will be installed with this pinion shows that the pinion depth is
> > independant of the bearings. Proving without refute that your statement
> > that if he replaces the bearings he must re-shim the pinion is ABSOLUTELY A
> > CROCK OF ----.
--
Will Honea
#100
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dana 35c Overhaul questions
Gotta go your direction here, Bill, but have always first tried the
fit with the original shims +- the correction for the pinion marking.
AIR, something like 3 out of 4 were right that way - but that 1-in-4
could vary from real close to WTF? I always treated that as a
starting point, especially if a single bearing set was changed (pinion
or carrier - yeah, I did change only the bad one when bucks were
tight). That said, I rarely found the original shims even in the ball
park if both bearing sets were changed at once.
I still have what's left of a fairly large tube of prussian blue and a
1955 version of the Motors Manual that has a GOOD set of pictures
showing all sorts of contact patterns for both good and bad drive and
coast side patterns. I once had an old German cabinet maker for a
shop teacher and I will never forget what he used to say:
"Der's two vays to do 'tings: right und ofer".
On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 16:15:28 UTC L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Steve, just like no two differential housings are alike, so be every
> other part in the assembly, bearings by the same manufacture are close,
> but do change design and other manufacturers are differently different,
> as we see especially with wheel bearings. but, then that's why we
> automatically recheck the specs, and I'll say again, every time there's
> a change in bearings there must be a change in shims. PERIOD!
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > The purpose in pointing out the pinion depth markings on the head of the
> > pinion is to illustrate to the other readers that are relying on these
> > posts for accurate information that you are full of ----. The fact that
> > pinion depth is measured and marked on a pinion without using the bearings
> > that will be installed with this pinion shows that the pinion depth is
> > independant of the bearings. Proving without refute that your statement
> > that if he replaces the bearings he must re-shim the pinion is ABSOLUTELY A
> > CROCK OF ----.
--
Will Honea
fit with the original shims +- the correction for the pinion marking.
AIR, something like 3 out of 4 were right that way - but that 1-in-4
could vary from real close to WTF? I always treated that as a
starting point, especially if a single bearing set was changed (pinion
or carrier - yeah, I did change only the bad one when bucks were
tight). That said, I rarely found the original shims even in the ball
park if both bearing sets were changed at once.
I still have what's left of a fairly large tube of prussian blue and a
1955 version of the Motors Manual that has a GOOD set of pictures
showing all sorts of contact patterns for both good and bad drive and
coast side patterns. I once had an old German cabinet maker for a
shop teacher and I will never forget what he used to say:
"Der's two vays to do 'tings: right und ofer".
On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 16:15:28 UTC L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Steve, just like no two differential housings are alike, so be every
> other part in the assembly, bearings by the same manufacture are close,
> but do change design and other manufacturers are differently different,
> as we see especially with wheel bearings. but, then that's why we
> automatically recheck the specs, and I'll say again, every time there's
> a change in bearings there must be a change in shims. PERIOD!
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > The purpose in pointing out the pinion depth markings on the head of the
> > pinion is to illustrate to the other readers that are relying on these
> > posts for accurate information that you are full of ----. The fact that
> > pinion depth is measured and marked on a pinion without using the bearings
> > that will be installed with this pinion shows that the pinion depth is
> > independant of the bearings. Proving without refute that your statement
> > that if he replaces the bearings he must re-shim the pinion is ABSOLUTELY A
> > CROCK OF ----.
--
Will Honea