I think I have tried every aftermarket 'performance' wire set made in
the last 35 years or so and none have performed or stood up as well as
the OEM ones from the $tealership.

I am now running on 7 years with the OEM Jeep plug wires in my CJ7.

'Performance' just means they will put out a nice clean spark... while
they work.

They are designed to work for at least 'one' race.....

Like a 'performance' engine. Race cars change those every race or two
also....

Accel wire are supposed to be 9mm 'performance' wires. Well they worked
until I had to check my spark plugs, then every metal clip on the ends
pulled off when I removed them. Half were arced out already which meant
they were broken to start and had been jumping that gap since new.

Belden make cables. They are twice the price of the same cable from any
competetitor just because of their name stamped in pure gold on the side
of the cable. (it must be pure gold, nothing else justifies their price)

Just my $0.02....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)


The Merg wrote:
> Bruce,
> I can't seem to find a website for Belden. Do you know where I can
> find some info or where I would be able to pick them up?
> Thanks a lot.
>
> On Feb 8, 10:34 am, "Highcountry" <highcountry2...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> Mike you are "one of the few"! Mercy, the parts situation is going
>> to the dogs, or at least the Chinese!
>>
>> I also put an Accel coil on my CJ, not sure which one but it fits in
>> the standard bracket and has a Resin Core instead of oil to resist
>> vibration. It gave a noticable smoothness to the idle.
>>
>> If you are REALLY insistant, you can still get a good Cap and Rotor.
>> Borg Warner still has available the good cap with the BRASS terminals
>> and a decent rotor. You will most likely need to ASK for the BEST
>> stuff to get it, everyone quotes prices on the Chinese Junk to keep
>> from scaring off the "Bubba Mechanics".
>>
>> Wires are even harder to find. The only ones I can recommend are the
>> Belden brand, and make sure that when you open the box they are a Deep
>> Navy Blue in color. These are the good ones and you won't have any
>> problems with them. Belden makes wires for NASCAR, so they do know
>> what is necessary to make a good wire.
>>
>> Good Luck, Bruce
>
>

 

One of the car rags did a test on aftermarket wires and agrees that they
are mostly for separating you from your money on street vehicles. Even
the performance wiring kits sold by dealers were worse than the stock
ones for emissions and performance. The performance drop was at the
higher rpms the wires claim to be good for.

Most also tend to make your radio and stereo quite noisy.

There used to be an old orange wiring kit that worked for drag racing,
but I'd hate to make a very big bet that they really helped compared to
factory.

Roughly the same marketing category as fancy audio wiring that cannot
compete for performance with some really inexpensive alternatives.

Mike Romain proclaimed:

> I think I have tried every aftermarket 'performance' wire set made in
> the last 35 years or so and none have performed or stood up as well as
> the OEM ones from the $tealership.
>
> I am now running on 7 years with the OEM Jeep plug wires in my CJ7.
>
> 'Performance' just means they will put out a nice clean spark... while
> they work.
>
> They are designed to work for at least 'one' race.....
>
> Like a 'performance' engine. Race cars change those every race or two
> also....
>
> Accel wire are supposed to be 9mm 'performance' wires. Well they worked
> until I had to check my spark plugs, then every metal clip on the ends
> pulled off when I removed them. Half were arced out already which meant
> they were broken to start and had been jumping that gap since new.
>
> Belden make cables. They are twice the price of the same cable from any
> competetitor just because of their name stamped in pure gold on the side
> of the cable. (it must be pure gold, nothing else justifies their price)
>
> Just my $0.02....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
> The Merg wrote:
>
>> Bruce,
>> I can't seem to find a website for Belden. Do you know where I can
>> find some info or where I would be able to pick them up?
>> Thanks a lot.
>>
>> On Feb 8, 10:34 am, "Highcountry" <highcountry2...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Mike you are "one of the few"! Mercy, the parts situation is going
>>> to the dogs, or at least the Chinese!
>>>
>>> I also put an Accel coil on my CJ, not sure which one but it fits in
>>> the standard bracket and has a Resin Core instead of oil to resist
>>> vibration. It gave a noticable smoothness to the idle.
>>>
>>> If you are REALLY insistant, you can still get a good Cap and Rotor.
>>> Borg Warner still has available the good cap with the BRASS terminals
>>> and a decent rotor. You will most likely need to ASK for the BEST
>>> stuff to get it, everyone quotes prices on the Chinese Junk to keep
>>> from scaring off the "Bubba Mechanics".
>>>
>>> Wires are even harder to find. The only ones I can recommend are the
>>> Belden brand, and make sure that when you open the box they are a Deep
>>> Navy Blue in color. These are the good ones and you won't have any
>>> problems with them. Belden makes wires for NASCAR, so they do know
>>> what is necessary to make a good wire.
>>>
>>> Good Luck, Bruce
>>
>>
>>

 

One of the car rags did a test on aftermarket wires and agrees that they
are mostly for separating you from your money on street vehicles. Even
the performance wiring kits sold by dealers were worse than the stock
ones for emissions and performance. The performance drop was at the
higher rpms the wires claim to be good for.

Most also tend to make your radio and stereo quite noisy.

There used to be an old orange wiring kit that worked for drag racing,
but I'd hate to make a very big bet that they really helped compared to
factory.

Roughly the same marketing category as fancy audio wiring that cannot
compete for performance with some really inexpensive alternatives.

Mike Romain proclaimed:

> I think I have tried every aftermarket 'performance' wire set made in
> the last 35 years or so and none have performed or stood up as well as
> the OEM ones from the $tealership.
>
> I am now running on 7 years with the OEM Jeep plug wires in my CJ7.
>
> 'Performance' just means they will put out a nice clean spark... while
> they work.
>
> They are designed to work for at least 'one' race.....
>
> Like a 'performance' engine. Race cars change those every race or two
> also....
>
> Accel wire are supposed to be 9mm 'performance' wires. Well they worked
> until I had to check my spark plugs, then every metal clip on the ends
> pulled off when I removed them. Half were arced out already which meant
> they were broken to start and had been jumping that gap since new.
>
> Belden make cables. They are twice the price of the same cable from any
> competetitor just because of their name stamped in pure gold on the side
> of the cable. (it must be pure gold, nothing else justifies their price)
>
> Just my $0.02....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
> The Merg wrote:
>
>> Bruce,
>> I can't seem to find a website for Belden. Do you know where I can
>> find some info or where I would be able to pick them up?
>> Thanks a lot.
>>
>> On Feb 8, 10:34 am, "Highcountry" <highcountry2...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Mike you are "one of the few"! Mercy, the parts situation is going
>>> to the dogs, or at least the Chinese!
>>>
>>> I also put an Accel coil on my CJ, not sure which one but it fits in
>>> the standard bracket and has a Resin Core instead of oil to resist
>>> vibration. It gave a noticable smoothness to the idle.
>>>
>>> If you are REALLY insistant, you can still get a good Cap and Rotor.
>>> Borg Warner still has available the good cap with the BRASS terminals
>>> and a decent rotor. You will most likely need to ASK for the BEST
>>> stuff to get it, everyone quotes prices on the Chinese Junk to keep
>>> from scaring off the "Bubba Mechanics".
>>>
>>> Wires are even harder to find. The only ones I can recommend are the
>>> Belden brand, and make sure that when you open the box they are a Deep
>>> Navy Blue in color. These are the good ones and you won't have any
>>> problems with them. Belden makes wires for NASCAR, so they do know
>>> what is necessary to make a good wire.
>>>
>>> Good Luck, Bruce
>>
>>
>>

 

One of the car rags did a test on aftermarket wires and agrees that they
are mostly for separating you from your money on street vehicles. Even
the performance wiring kits sold by dealers were worse than the stock
ones for emissions and performance. The performance drop was at the
higher rpms the wires claim to be good for.

Most also tend to make your radio and stereo quite noisy.

There used to be an old orange wiring kit that worked for drag racing,
but I'd hate to make a very big bet that they really helped compared to
factory.

Roughly the same marketing category as fancy audio wiring that cannot
compete for performance with some really inexpensive alternatives.

Mike Romain proclaimed:

> I think I have tried every aftermarket 'performance' wire set made in
> the last 35 years or so and none have performed or stood up as well as
> the OEM ones from the $tealership.
>
> I am now running on 7 years with the OEM Jeep plug wires in my CJ7.
>
> 'Performance' just means they will put out a nice clean spark... while
> they work.
>
> They are designed to work for at least 'one' race.....
>
> Like a 'performance' engine. Race cars change those every race or two
> also....
>
> Accel wire are supposed to be 9mm 'performance' wires. Well they worked
> until I had to check my spark plugs, then every metal clip on the ends
> pulled off when I removed them. Half were arced out already which meant
> they were broken to start and had been jumping that gap since new.
>
> Belden make cables. They are twice the price of the same cable from any
> competetitor just because of their name stamped in pure gold on the side
> of the cable. (it must be pure gold, nothing else justifies their price)
>
> Just my $0.02....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
> The Merg wrote:
>
>> Bruce,
>> I can't seem to find a website for Belden. Do you know where I can
>> find some info or where I would be able to pick them up?
>> Thanks a lot.
>>
>> On Feb 8, 10:34 am, "Highcountry" <highcountry2...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Mike you are "one of the few"! Mercy, the parts situation is going
>>> to the dogs, or at least the Chinese!
>>>
>>> I also put an Accel coil on my CJ, not sure which one but it fits in
>>> the standard bracket and has a Resin Core instead of oil to resist
>>> vibration. It gave a noticable smoothness to the idle.
>>>
>>> If you are REALLY insistant, you can still get a good Cap and Rotor.
>>> Borg Warner still has available the good cap with the BRASS terminals
>>> and a decent rotor. You will most likely need to ASK for the BEST
>>> stuff to get it, everyone quotes prices on the Chinese Junk to keep
>>> from scaring off the "Bubba Mechanics".
>>>
>>> Wires are even harder to find. The only ones I can recommend are the
>>> Belden brand, and make sure that when you open the box they are a Deep
>>> Navy Blue in color. These are the good ones and you won't have any
>>> problems with them. Belden makes wires for NASCAR, so they do know
>>> what is necessary to make a good wire.
>>>
>>> Good Luck, Bruce
>>
>>
>>

 

One of the car rags did a test on aftermarket wires and agrees that they
are mostly for separating you from your money on street vehicles. Even
the performance wiring kits sold by dealers were worse than the stock
ones for emissions and performance. The performance drop was at the
higher rpms the wires claim to be good for.

Most also tend to make your radio and stereo quite noisy.

There used to be an old orange wiring kit that worked for drag racing,
but I'd hate to make a very big bet that they really helped compared to
factory.

Roughly the same marketing category as fancy audio wiring that cannot
compete for performance with some really inexpensive alternatives.

Mike Romain proclaimed:

> I think I have tried every aftermarket 'performance' wire set made in
> the last 35 years or so and none have performed or stood up as well as
> the OEM ones from the $tealership.
>
> I am now running on 7 years with the OEM Jeep plug wires in my CJ7.
>
> 'Performance' just means they will put out a nice clean spark... while
> they work.
>
> They are designed to work for at least 'one' race.....
>
> Like a 'performance' engine. Race cars change those every race or two
> also....
>
> Accel wire are supposed to be 9mm 'performance' wires. Well they worked
> until I had to check my spark plugs, then every metal clip on the ends
> pulled off when I removed them. Half were arced out already which meant
> they were broken to start and had been jumping that gap since new.
>
> Belden make cables. They are twice the price of the same cable from any
> competetitor just because of their name stamped in pure gold on the side
> of the cable. (it must be pure gold, nothing else justifies their price)
>
> Just my $0.02....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
> The Merg wrote:
>
>> Bruce,
>> I can't seem to find a website for Belden. Do you know where I can
>> find some info or where I would be able to pick them up?
>> Thanks a lot.
>>
>> On Feb 8, 10:34 am, "Highcountry" <highcountry2...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Mike you are "one of the few"! Mercy, the parts situation is going
>>> to the dogs, or at least the Chinese!
>>>
>>> I also put an Accel coil on my CJ, not sure which one but it fits in
>>> the standard bracket and has a Resin Core instead of oil to resist
>>> vibration. It gave a noticable smoothness to the idle.
>>>
>>> If you are REALLY insistant, you can still get a good Cap and Rotor.
>>> Borg Warner still has available the good cap with the BRASS terminals
>>> and a decent rotor. You will most likely need to ASK for the BEST
>>> stuff to get it, everyone quotes prices on the Chinese Junk to keep
>>> from scaring off the "Bubba Mechanics".
>>>
>>> Wires are even harder to find. The only ones I can recommend are the
>>> Belden brand, and make sure that when you open the box they are a Deep
>>> Navy Blue in color. These are the good ones and you won't have any
>>> problems with them. Belden makes wires for NASCAR, so they do know
>>> what is necessary to make a good wire.
>>>
>>> Good Luck, Bruce
>>
>>
>>

 

Mike,
We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I can
find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there is no
spark.
It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
Any suggestions??

Mike Romain wrote:
> The Merg wrote:
>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>
> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you
> had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled
> them out. You don't mention that,...
>
> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>
>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
>> really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
>> difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>
> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than
> carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>
> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is
> easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the
> directions imply.
>
>>
>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>> ground is screwed up?
>
> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't
> turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.

 

Mike,
We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I can
find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there is no
spark.
It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
Any suggestions??

Mike Romain wrote:
> The Merg wrote:
>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>
> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you
> had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled
> them out. You don't mention that,...
>
> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>
>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
>> really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
>> difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>
> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than
> carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>
> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is
> easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the
> directions imply.
>
>>
>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>> ground is screwed up?
>
> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't
> turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.

 

Mike,
We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I can
find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there is no
spark.
It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
Any suggestions??

Mike Romain wrote:
> The Merg wrote:
>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>
> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you
> had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled
> them out. You don't mention that,...
>
> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>
>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
>> really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
>> difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>
> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than
> carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>
> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is
> easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the
> directions imply.
>
>>
>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>> ground is screwed up?
>
> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't
> turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.

 

Mike,
We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I can
find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there is no
spark.
It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
Any suggestions??

Mike Romain wrote:
> The Merg wrote:
>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>
> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you
> had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled
> them out. You don't mention that,...
>
> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>
>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a
>> really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a
>> difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>
> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than
> carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>
> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is
> easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the
> directions imply.
>
>>
>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>> ground is screwed up?
>
> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't
> turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.

 

I would pull one spark plug out, plug in it's wire and hold it's base
against the block to see if I had a spark.

Did you get a multimeter?

With it set on volts, see if you have power to the coil positive
connection with the key in run. The do it on the coil negative with the
key on start and see if the volts that show flicker up and down.

Then you can take the meter on 'ohms' and put it into the connection on
the distributor to take a reading between the orange and purple wires.
You should have between and 400 and 800 ohms there. If not suspect a
bad pickup coil.

Then with the meter on ohms, you go from the coil positive to the coil
negative. You should have between 1.13 and 1.23 ohms there.

You then go from the coil high tension center to the negative. You
should have between 7700 ohms and 9300 ohms.

If all this checks out, then suspect the ignition module which is
located 'way' down on the fender below the washer bottle.

I know no other ways to tell.

Mike

The Merg wrote:
> Mike,
> We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've
> replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground
> from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I can
> find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there is no
> spark.
> It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems
> that there is no spark even getting to the plugs.
> How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly?
> Any suggestions??
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> The Merg wrote:
>>> I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have
>>> started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb?
>>
>> Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can
>> interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If
>> you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you
>> pulled them out. You don't mention that,...
>>
>> Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they
>> need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a
>> missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when
>> you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned.
>>
>>> I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it
>>> a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there
>>> a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?)
>>
>> TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder
>> than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job.
>>
>> A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and
>> is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than
>> the directions imply.
>>
>>>
>>> With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my
>>> ground is screwed up?
>>
>> That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module
>> won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's.