Re: Brake Problems: What Could It Be?
 

Hi James,
You want the smallest master cylinder piston you can find, and the
largest front slave cylinders you can find, to multiply your pedal
leverage.
Hi James,
Double check someone didn't put your brake shoes on backwards, the
short shoe should face the front.
The proportioning valve should be centered if the brake light isn't
lit. To test have someone push the brake pedal while you bleed an axle,
quickly, the light should light, then slowly bleed the other axle until
your helper tells you the light went out, very touchy.
Know that especially with power brakes, tires above 34" will not
lock up on pavement, but will stop you as fast as feathering stock
tires.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

James Drinkwater wrote:
>
> Sorry for the omission. It has standard brakes (no booster).
> I talked to a professional mechanic the other day who has extensive
> experience with off-roading and the kind of issues we all deal with. He
> said I can try "hollowing out" the proportioning valve to see if that has a
> dramatic effect on braking. Now, I know what you're thinking, "You might as
> well just replace the valve." Might as well but maybe this can prove the
> issue while I wait for a new part. I don't think it'd be unsafe and, worse
> case, would just improve braking somewhere.
> Not so sure 'bout the benefit of boosters or larger master cylinders.
> Sure, it'd be easier on my foot, but it still doesn't address the gripping
> power does it? Or does it? Whattaya think?
> Explain to me the repositioning of the proportioning valve pin reset to
> neutral.
>
> Regards,
> Drink

Re: Brake Problems: What Could It Be?
 

Hi James,
You want the smallest master cylinder piston you can find, and the
largest front slave cylinders you can find, to multiply your pedal
leverage.
Hi James,
Double check someone didn't put your brake shoes on backwards, the
short shoe should face the front.
The proportioning valve should be centered if the brake light isn't
lit. To test have someone push the brake pedal while you bleed an axle,
quickly, the light should light, then slowly bleed the other axle until
your helper tells you the light went out, very touchy.
Know that especially with power brakes, tires above 34" will not
lock up on pavement, but will stop you as fast as feathering stock
tires.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

James Drinkwater wrote:
>
> Sorry for the omission. It has standard brakes (no booster).
> I talked to a professional mechanic the other day who has extensive
> experience with off-roading and the kind of issues we all deal with. He
> said I can try "hollowing out" the proportioning valve to see if that has a
> dramatic effect on braking. Now, I know what you're thinking, "You might as
> well just replace the valve." Might as well but maybe this can prove the
> issue while I wait for a new part. I don't think it'd be unsafe and, worse
> case, would just improve braking somewhere.
> Not so sure 'bout the benefit of boosters or larger master cylinders.
> Sure, it'd be easier on my foot, but it still doesn't address the gripping
> power does it? Or does it? Whattaya think?
> Explain to me the repositioning of the proportioning valve pin reset to
> neutral.
>
> Regards,
> Drink

Re: Brake Problems: What Could It Be?
 

James Drinkwater wrote:
> Sorry for the omission. It has standard brakes (no booster).
> I talked to a professional mechanic the other day who has extensive
> experience with off-roading and the kind of issues we all deal with. He said I can try "hollowing out" the proportioning valve to
> see if
> that has a dramatic effect on braking. Now, I know what you're
> thinking, "You might as well just replace the valve." Might as well
> but maybe this can prove the issue while I wait for a new part. I
> don't think it'd be unsafe and, worse case, would just improve
> braking somewhere.

The proportioning valve acts as an emergency cut-off should the
front or rear brake lines spring a leak. Taking the guts out is
dangerous.

> Not so sure 'bout the benefit of boosters or
> larger master cylinders. Sure, it'd be easier on my foot, but it still doesn't address the
> gripping power does it? Or does it? Whattaya think?
> Explain to me the repositioning of the proportioning valve pin reset
> to neutral.

The booster replaces standing on the brake and adds significantly
to the available hydraulic pressure.
http://www.classicperform.com/PDFs/B...ssureChart.pdf

That is why when adding a booster to a standard system you have to
upgrade the flex lines and double check all hard lines. I installed
one on a friends pickup and the first time he tested it, it blew a
bubble in the flex lines.

--
DougW

Re: Brake Problems: What Could It Be?
 

James Drinkwater wrote:
> Sorry for the omission. It has standard brakes (no booster).
> I talked to a professional mechanic the other day who has extensive
> experience with off-roading and the kind of issues we all deal with. He said I can try "hollowing out" the proportioning valve to
> see if
> that has a dramatic effect on braking. Now, I know what you're
> thinking, "You might as well just replace the valve." Might as well
> but maybe this can prove the issue while I wait for a new part. I
> don't think it'd be unsafe and, worse case, would just improve
> braking somewhere.

The proportioning valve acts as an emergency cut-off should the
front or rear brake lines spring a leak. Taking the guts out is
dangerous.

> Not so sure 'bout the benefit of boosters or
> larger master cylinders. Sure, it'd be easier on my foot, but it still doesn't address the
> gripping power does it? Or does it? Whattaya think?
> Explain to me the repositioning of the proportioning valve pin reset
> to neutral.

The booster replaces standing on the brake and adds significantly
to the available hydraulic pressure.
http://www.classicperform.com/PDFs/B...ssureChart.pdf

That is why when adding a booster to a standard system you have to
upgrade the flex lines and double check all hard lines. I installed
one on a friends pickup and the first time he tested it, it blew a
bubble in the flex lines.

--
DougW

Re: Brake Problems: What Could It Be?
 

James Drinkwater wrote:
> Sorry for the omission. It has standard brakes (no booster).
> I talked to a professional mechanic the other day who has extensive
> experience with off-roading and the kind of issues we all deal with. He said I can try "hollowing out" the proportioning valve to
> see if
> that has a dramatic effect on braking. Now, I know what you're
> thinking, "You might as well just replace the valve." Might as well
> but maybe this can prove the issue while I wait for a new part. I
> don't think it'd be unsafe and, worse case, would just improve
> braking somewhere.

The proportioning valve acts as an emergency cut-off should the
front or rear brake lines spring a leak. Taking the guts out is
dangerous.

> Not so sure 'bout the benefit of boosters or
> larger master cylinders. Sure, it'd be easier on my foot, but it still doesn't address the
> gripping power does it? Or does it? Whattaya think?
> Explain to me the repositioning of the proportioning valve pin reset
> to neutral.

The booster replaces standing on the brake and adds significantly
to the available hydraulic pressure.
http://www.classicperform.com/PDFs/B...ssureChart.pdf

That is why when adding a booster to a standard system you have to
upgrade the flex lines and double check all hard lines. I installed
one on a friends pickup and the first time he tested it, it blew a
bubble in the flex lines.

--
DougW

Re: Brake Problems: What Could It Be?
 

Okay Doug, you're right. I knew better than that when I started typing.
What the hell am I thinkin', "gut a brake part"?! Anyway, I knew about the
axle-loss safety feature (just brain-farted), but doesn't the PV bias
pressure so the rear doesn't lock as easily?
Drink

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:kU63h.17148$mX5.14016@newsfe23.lga...
> James Drinkwater wrote:
>> Sorry for the omission. It has standard brakes (no booster).
>> I talked to a professional mechanic the other day who has extensive
>> experience with off-roading and the kind of issues we all deal with. He
>> said I can try "hollowing out" the proportioning valve to see if
>> that has a dramatic effect on braking. Now, I know what you're
>> thinking, "You might as well just replace the valve." Might as well
>> but maybe this can prove the issue while I wait for a new part. I
>> don't think it'd be unsafe and, worse case, would just improve
>> braking somewhere.
>
> The proportioning valve acts as an emergency cut-off should the
> front or rear brake lines spring a leak. Taking the guts out is
> dangerous.
>
>> Not so sure 'bout the benefit of boosters or
>> larger master cylinders. Sure, it'd be easier on my foot, but it still
>> doesn't address the
>> gripping power does it? Or does it? Whattaya think?
>> Explain to me the repositioning of the proportioning valve pin reset
>> to neutral.
>
> The booster replaces standing on the brake and adds significantly
> to the available hydraulic pressure.
> http://www.classicperform.com/PDFs/B...ssureChart.pdf
>
> That is why when adding a booster to a standard system you have to
> upgrade the flex lines and double check all hard lines. I installed
> one on a friends pickup and the first time he tested it, it blew a
> bubble in the flex lines.
>
> --
> DougW
>

Re: Brake Problems: What Could It Be?
 

Okay Doug, you're right. I knew better than that when I started typing.
What the hell am I thinkin', "gut a brake part"?! Anyway, I knew about the
axle-loss safety feature (just brain-farted), but doesn't the PV bias
pressure so the rear doesn't lock as easily?
Drink

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:kU63h.17148$mX5.14016@newsfe23.lga...
> James Drinkwater wrote:
>> Sorry for the omission. It has standard brakes (no booster).
>> I talked to a professional mechanic the other day who has extensive
>> experience with off-roading and the kind of issues we all deal with. He
>> said I can try "hollowing out" the proportioning valve to see if
>> that has a dramatic effect on braking. Now, I know what you're
>> thinking, "You might as well just replace the valve." Might as well
>> but maybe this can prove the issue while I wait for a new part. I
>> don't think it'd be unsafe and, worse case, would just improve
>> braking somewhere.
>
> The proportioning valve acts as an emergency cut-off should the
> front or rear brake lines spring a leak. Taking the guts out is
> dangerous.
>
>> Not so sure 'bout the benefit of boosters or
>> larger master cylinders. Sure, it'd be easier on my foot, but it still
>> doesn't address the
>> gripping power does it? Or does it? Whattaya think?
>> Explain to me the repositioning of the proportioning valve pin reset
>> to neutral.
>
> The booster replaces standing on the brake and adds significantly
> to the available hydraulic pressure.
> http://www.classicperform.com/PDFs/B...ssureChart.pdf
>
> That is why when adding a booster to a standard system you have to
> upgrade the flex lines and double check all hard lines. I installed
> one on a friends pickup and the first time he tested it, it blew a
> bubble in the flex lines.
>
> --
> DougW
>

Re: Brake Problems: What Could It Be?
 

Okay Doug, you're right. I knew better than that when I started typing.
What the hell am I thinkin', "gut a brake part"?! Anyway, I knew about the
axle-loss safety feature (just brain-farted), but doesn't the PV bias
pressure so the rear doesn't lock as easily?
Drink

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:kU63h.17148$mX5.14016@newsfe23.lga...
> James Drinkwater wrote:
>> Sorry for the omission. It has standard brakes (no booster).
>> I talked to a professional mechanic the other day who has extensive
>> experience with off-roading and the kind of issues we all deal with. He
>> said I can try "hollowing out" the proportioning valve to see if
>> that has a dramatic effect on braking. Now, I know what you're
>> thinking, "You might as well just replace the valve." Might as well
>> but maybe this can prove the issue while I wait for a new part. I
>> don't think it'd be unsafe and, worse case, would just improve
>> braking somewhere.
>
> The proportioning valve acts as an emergency cut-off should the
> front or rear brake lines spring a leak. Taking the guts out is
> dangerous.
>
>> Not so sure 'bout the benefit of boosters or
>> larger master cylinders. Sure, it'd be easier on my foot, but it still
>> doesn't address the
>> gripping power does it? Or does it? Whattaya think?
>> Explain to me the repositioning of the proportioning valve pin reset
>> to neutral.
>
> The booster replaces standing on the brake and adds significantly
> to the available hydraulic pressure.
> http://www.classicperform.com/PDFs/B...ssureChart.pdf
>
> That is why when adding a booster to a standard system you have to
> upgrade the flex lines and double check all hard lines. I installed
> one on a friends pickup and the first time he tested it, it blew a
> bubble in the flex lines.
>
> --
> DougW
>

Re: Brake Problems: What Could It Be?
 

You're driving on front drum brakes with a foot that is used to disks.
Drums were always weak, and worse when wet. You should consider
converting the front to disks -- find a donor axle and it should be a
bolt-up job.


On Sun, 29 Oct 2006, James Drinkwater wrote:

> All,
> I've always had weak brakes and think they should be much better based on
> what others say.
> I've got a '76 CJ-7 with 11" drums all around. I had 31's, then 33's, now
> 35's on the rear (might do a turn-around back to 31's 15 years later) and
> I've seen very little difference 'tween 'em all; always weak. I've changed
> master cylinder, wheel cylinders, drums and the whole works. I've bled them
> by gravity, pedal pressure and vacuum pump too. Still, WEAK; to the point
> that I have to stand on it as hard as I can to get a wheel to lock up in the
> rain if I'm lucky.
> I don't think there's a blocked line and everything's practically new
> minus the proportioning valve. Could the valve be the culprit from the
> start? Or, should I look for something else? If somebody has a
> troubleshooting scheme, I'd really appreciate it.
> Regards,
> Jim "Comin' Through!!!" Drinkwater
>
>
>

--
"I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with
whips....r"
R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days.

Re: Brake Problems: What Could It Be?
 

You're driving on front drum brakes with a foot that is used to disks.
Drums were always weak, and worse when wet. You should consider
converting the front to disks -- find a donor axle and it should be a
bolt-up job.


On Sun, 29 Oct 2006, James Drinkwater wrote:

> All,
> I've always had weak brakes and think they should be much better based on
> what others say.
> I've got a '76 CJ-7 with 11" drums all around. I had 31's, then 33's, now
> 35's on the rear (might do a turn-around back to 31's 15 years later) and
> I've seen very little difference 'tween 'em all; always weak. I've changed
> master cylinder, wheel cylinders, drums and the whole works. I've bled them
> by gravity, pedal pressure and vacuum pump too. Still, WEAK; to the point
> that I have to stand on it as hard as I can to get a wheel to lock up in the
> rain if I'm lucky.
> I don't think there's a blocked line and everything's practically new
> minus the proportioning valve. Could the valve be the culprit from the
> start? Or, should I look for something else? If somebody has a
> troubleshooting scheme, I'd really appreciate it.
> Regards,
> Jim "Comin' Through!!!" Drinkwater
>
>
>

--
"I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with
whips....r"
R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days.