I did pick up a 4" angle grinder at House of Tools today, so I may try a
little more grinding first. I can also try the slot.

Thanks again for all the ideas. And yes, Carl, I'll keep you all posted! :)
Especially when I win!

Clint

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4595E1D0.DC7D306C@sympatico.ca...
>A small plumbers pipe wrench will grab the stub really well. It
> tightens with turning unlike vise grips that lock.
>
> When I drill out bolts, I use a bit about 1/4 smaller than the bolt and
> aim it towards the side with the intent of 'just' skimming the threads,
> leaving a '1/4 moon' or outhouse door window shape. I then can usually
> jam a torx bit in the hole and turn the bolt out or tap it with a mini
> screwdriver and hammer to start it. The heat from drilling and the skim
> of the threads usually loosens the crescent left in there and it has
> always turned out for me after.
>
> You also might want to try a slot in the end of the stub for a flat
> blade tool.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
> Clint wrote:
>>
>> So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
>>
>> I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so
>> I
>> don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the
>> vice grips to grab. No joy so far.
>>
>> Next up:
>> Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
>> http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
>> I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones
>> mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.
>>
>> I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts,
>> mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling
>> abilities
>> (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is
>> right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm
>> even
>> going to be able to get a drill in there.
>>
>> I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm
>> concerned
>> about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the garage in
>> any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and engine oil all
>> over the place...
>>
>> Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.
>>
>> Clint
>>
>> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
>> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
>> > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my
>> > '88
>> > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
>> > bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>> > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>> > broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>> > material
>> > to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>> >
>> > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>> > work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do
>> > you
>> > get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
>> > Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>> >
>> > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the
>> > old
>> > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
>> > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was
>> > no
>> > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
>> > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater
>> > and
>> > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in
>> > there
>> > a bit.
>> >
>> > Clint

 

On Sat, 30 Dec 2006 05:43:21 +0000, Clint wrote:

> I did pick up a 4" angle grinder at House of Tools today, so I may try a
> little more grinding first. I can also try the slot.
>
> Thanks again for all the ideas. And yes, Carl, I'll keep you all posted! :)
> Especially when I win!

Clint, I am as nervous as you about fires with an open torch. You might
try a trick I frequently use when doing plumbing work on existing pipes.
Get the biggest piece of sheet steel (light weight stuff like ducting or
flashing is fine). Punch a hole for the broken stub and slide the sheet
metal over the broken part so that it shields everything but the broken
stub when you apply the flame. This heats the bolt instead of the hole,
which is bass-ackwards from the more efficient heating of the hole but it
does work - especially if you take a squirt bottle of water and quickly
cool (quench) the bolt once you get it good and hot. Just be careful of
your hands - the sheet metal will reflect the heat back at you and you can
cook a hand if you don't watch it.

--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>

 

On Sat, 30 Dec 2006 05:43:21 +0000, Clint wrote:

> I did pick up a 4" angle grinder at House of Tools today, so I may try a
> little more grinding first. I can also try the slot.
>
> Thanks again for all the ideas. And yes, Carl, I'll keep you all posted! :)
> Especially when I win!

Clint, I am as nervous as you about fires with an open torch. You might
try a trick I frequently use when doing plumbing work on existing pipes.
Get the biggest piece of sheet steel (light weight stuff like ducting or
flashing is fine). Punch a hole for the broken stub and slide the sheet
metal over the broken part so that it shields everything but the broken
stub when you apply the flame. This heats the bolt instead of the hole,
which is bass-ackwards from the more efficient heating of the hole but it
does work - especially if you take a squirt bottle of water and quickly
cool (quench) the bolt once you get it good and hot. Just be careful of
your hands - the sheet metal will reflect the heat back at you and you can
cook a hand if you don't watch it.

--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>

 

On Sat, 30 Dec 2006 05:43:21 +0000, Clint wrote:

> I did pick up a 4" angle grinder at House of Tools today, so I may try a
> little more grinding first. I can also try the slot.
>
> Thanks again for all the ideas. And yes, Carl, I'll keep you all posted! :)
> Especially when I win!

Clint, I am as nervous as you about fires with an open torch. You might
try a trick I frequently use when doing plumbing work on existing pipes.
Get the biggest piece of sheet steel (light weight stuff like ducting or
flashing is fine). Punch a hole for the broken stub and slide the sheet
metal over the broken part so that it shields everything but the broken
stub when you apply the flame. This heats the bolt instead of the hole,
which is bass-ackwards from the more efficient heating of the hole but it
does work - especially if you take a squirt bottle of water and quickly
cool (quench) the bolt once you get it good and hot. Just be careful of
your hands - the sheet metal will reflect the heat back at you and you can
cook a hand if you don't watch it.

--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>

 

Tungsten carbide MIGHT drill it, a diamond bit should do it, use plenty
of lube.


Arold "Al" Green proclaimed:

> A bit off topic, but related. I have a broken tap in a similar
> situation. Nothing to grab and a tap is so hard it will be a bitch to
> drill. Any thoughts?
> Al
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>
>
>>Heat with a torch or start drilling.
>>
>>Carl
>>
>>"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
>>news:SHklh.540934$R63.454264@pd7urf1no...
>>
>>>So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
>>>
>>>I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I
>>>don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the
>>>vice grips to grab. No joy so far.
>>>
>>>Next up:
>>>Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
>>>http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
>>>I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones
>>>mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.
>>>
>>>I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts,
>>>mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities
>>>(especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is
>>>right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even
>>>going to be able to get a drill in there.
>>>
>>>I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm
>>>concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the
>>>garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and
>>>engine oil all over the place...
>>>
>>>Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.
>>>
>>>Clint
>>>
>>>"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
>>>news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
>>>
>>>>So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
>>>>Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
>>>>bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>>>>(http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>>>>broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>>>>material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>>>>
>>>>What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>>>>work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
>>>>get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
>>>>Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>>>>
>>>>So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
>>>>parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
>>>>(vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
>>>>sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
>>>>gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
>>>>replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
>>>>a bit.
>>>>
>>>>Clint
>>>
> __
> Arold "Al" Green

 

Tungsten carbide MIGHT drill it, a diamond bit should do it, use plenty
of lube.


Arold "Al" Green proclaimed:

> A bit off topic, but related. I have a broken tap in a similar
> situation. Nothing to grab and a tap is so hard it will be a bitch to
> drill. Any thoughts?
> Al
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>
>
>>Heat with a torch or start drilling.
>>
>>Carl
>>
>>"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
>>news:SHklh.540934$R63.454264@pd7urf1no...
>>
>>>So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
>>>
>>>I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I
>>>don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the
>>>vice grips to grab. No joy so far.
>>>
>>>Next up:
>>>Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
>>>http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
>>>I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones
>>>mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.
>>>
>>>I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts,
>>>mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities
>>>(especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is
>>>right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even
>>>going to be able to get a drill in there.
>>>
>>>I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm
>>>concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the
>>>garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and
>>>engine oil all over the place...
>>>
>>>Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.
>>>
>>>Clint
>>>
>>>"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
>>>news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
>>>
>>>>So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
>>>>Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
>>>>bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>>>>(http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>>>>broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>>>>material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>>>>
>>>>What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>>>>work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
>>>>get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
>>>>Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>>>>
>>>>So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
>>>>parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
>>>>(vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
>>>>sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
>>>>gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
>>>>replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
>>>>a bit.
>>>>
>>>>Clint
>>>
> __
> Arold "Al" Green

 

Tungsten carbide MIGHT drill it, a diamond bit should do it, use plenty
of lube.


Arold "Al" Green proclaimed:

> A bit off topic, but related. I have a broken tap in a similar
> situation. Nothing to grab and a tap is so hard it will be a bitch to
> drill. Any thoughts?
> Al
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>
>
>>Heat with a torch or start drilling.
>>
>>Carl
>>
>>"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
>>news:SHklh.540934$R63.454264@pd7urf1no...
>>
>>>So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
>>>
>>>I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I
>>>don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the
>>>vice grips to grab. No joy so far.
>>>
>>>Next up:
>>>Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
>>>http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
>>>I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones
>>>mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.
>>>
>>>I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts,
>>>mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities
>>>(especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is
>>>right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even
>>>going to be able to get a drill in there.
>>>
>>>I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm
>>>concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the
>>>garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and
>>>engine oil all over the place...
>>>
>>>Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.
>>>
>>>Clint
>>>
>>>"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
>>>news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
>>>
>>>>So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
>>>>Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
>>>>bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>>>>(http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>>>>broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>>>>material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>>>>
>>>>What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>>>>work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
>>>>get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
>>>>Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>>>>
>>>>So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
>>>>parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
>>>>(vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
>>>>sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
>>>>gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
>>>>replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
>>>>a bit.
>>>>
>>>>Clint
>>>
> __
> Arold "Al" Green

 

Lon wrote:
> Tungsten carbide MIGHT drill it, a diamond bit should do it, use
> plenty of lube.

I always start off with a diamond drill in a dremmel. That way
it's fairly easy to get it centered for the next larger drill.

An old trick used on rusty farm equipment is to drill a hole just
the size of the stud in a long piece of bar stock. Then slide that
hole over the bolt and weld it on. Then use the bar stock as the
wrench and turn the bolt out.

--
DougW

 

Lon wrote:
> Tungsten carbide MIGHT drill it, a diamond bit should do it, use
> plenty of lube.

I always start off with a diamond drill in a dremmel. That way
it's fairly easy to get it centered for the next larger drill.

An old trick used on rusty farm equipment is to drill a hole just
the size of the stud in a long piece of bar stock. Then slide that
hole over the bolt and weld it on. Then use the bar stock as the
wrench and turn the bolt out.

--
DougW

 

Lon wrote:
> Tungsten carbide MIGHT drill it, a diamond bit should do it, use
> plenty of lube.

I always start off with a diamond drill in a dremmel. That way
it's fairly easy to get it centered for the next larger drill.

An old trick used on rusty farm equipment is to drill a hole just
the size of the stud in a long piece of bar stock. Then slide that
hole over the bolt and weld it on. Then use the bar stock as the
wrench and turn the bolt out.

--
DougW