Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
For others out there, put a little Blue Silicone gasket maker:
http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/...CLZZZZZZZ_.jpg
on the bolt threads and they won't seize for the next guy.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Clint wrote:
>
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two bolt
> heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken
> off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material to grab,
> assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them work
> better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you get the
> hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? Center-punch?
> That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there a
> bit.
>
> Clint
http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/...CLZZZZZZZ_.jpg
on the bolt threads and they won't seize for the next guy.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Clint wrote:
>
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two bolt
> heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken
> off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material to grab,
> assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them work
> better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you get the
> hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? Center-punch?
> That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there a
> bit.
>
> Clint
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
For others out there, put a little Blue Silicone gasket maker:
http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/...CLZZZZZZZ_.jpg
on the bolt threads and they won't seize for the next guy.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Clint wrote:
>
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two bolt
> heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken
> off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material to grab,
> assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them work
> better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you get the
> hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? Center-punch?
> That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there a
> bit.
>
> Clint
http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/...CLZZZZZZZ_.jpg
on the bolt threads and they won't seize for the next guy.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Clint wrote:
>
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two bolt
> heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken
> off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material to grab,
> assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them work
> better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you get the
> hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? Center-punch?
> That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there a
> bit.
>
> Clint
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
For others out there, put a little Blue Silicone gasket maker:
http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/...CLZZZZZZZ_.jpg
on the bolt threads and they won't seize for the next guy.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Clint wrote:
>
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two bolt
> heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken
> off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material to grab,
> assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them work
> better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you get the
> hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? Center-punch?
> That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there a
> bit.
>
> Clint
http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/...CLZZZZZZZ_.jpg
on the bolt threads and they won't seize for the next guy.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Clint wrote:
>
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two bolt
> heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken
> off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material to grab,
> assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them work
> better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you get the
> hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? Center-punch?
> That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there a
> bit.
>
> Clint
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
I HATE it when that happens!! Your pic is not super clear so I'm not
sure I'm seeing it right. I would cover everything make sure no grit
gets in bad places, use a 4" grinder to clean up the bolt and get it
flat. If you have a welder, take a suitable nut, drill out the threads,
counter sink the end, weld the nut onto the bolt. Use LOTS of heat on
the weld. As soon as the red heat goes away, try turning the bolt. If
you snap the weld, just repeat. The differential expansion plus the new
nut is often enough to get it to pop loose.
If not, grind it flat, centerpunch, start drilling. Use LOTS of pressure
with a NEW drill, in the CENTER of the bolts. You might want to use a
LEFT hand drill about .020" smaller than the threads for the final cut.
The left hand action will usually pull the last of the bolt threads out
without nicking the threads in the block. Headbolts on that are 1/2"-13
NC (???) You want to use one size smaller than the tap drill for that
thread. Left hand drills available from www.mcmaster.com not cheap, not
horrible, next day delivery.
Clint wrote:
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do
> you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off
> head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the
> old parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good
> shaped (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There
> was no sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using
> the RTV gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block
> heater and replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can
> see in there a bit.
>
> Clint
sure I'm seeing it right. I would cover everything make sure no grit
gets in bad places, use a 4" grinder to clean up the bolt and get it
flat. If you have a welder, take a suitable nut, drill out the threads,
counter sink the end, weld the nut onto the bolt. Use LOTS of heat on
the weld. As soon as the red heat goes away, try turning the bolt. If
you snap the weld, just repeat. The differential expansion plus the new
nut is often enough to get it to pop loose.
If not, grind it flat, centerpunch, start drilling. Use LOTS of pressure
with a NEW drill, in the CENTER of the bolts. You might want to use a
LEFT hand drill about .020" smaller than the threads for the final cut.
The left hand action will usually pull the last of the bolt threads out
without nicking the threads in the block. Headbolts on that are 1/2"-13
NC (???) You want to use one size smaller than the tap drill for that
thread. Left hand drills available from www.mcmaster.com not cheap, not
horrible, next day delivery.
Clint wrote:
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do
> you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off
> head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the
> old parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good
> shaped (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There
> was no sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using
> the RTV gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block
> heater and replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can
> see in there a bit.
>
> Clint
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
I HATE it when that happens!! Your pic is not super clear so I'm not
sure I'm seeing it right. I would cover everything make sure no grit
gets in bad places, use a 4" grinder to clean up the bolt and get it
flat. If you have a welder, take a suitable nut, drill out the threads,
counter sink the end, weld the nut onto the bolt. Use LOTS of heat on
the weld. As soon as the red heat goes away, try turning the bolt. If
you snap the weld, just repeat. The differential expansion plus the new
nut is often enough to get it to pop loose.
If not, grind it flat, centerpunch, start drilling. Use LOTS of pressure
with a NEW drill, in the CENTER of the bolts. You might want to use a
LEFT hand drill about .020" smaller than the threads for the final cut.
The left hand action will usually pull the last of the bolt threads out
without nicking the threads in the block. Headbolts on that are 1/2"-13
NC (???) You want to use one size smaller than the tap drill for that
thread. Left hand drills available from www.mcmaster.com not cheap, not
horrible, next day delivery.
Clint wrote:
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do
> you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off
> head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the
> old parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good
> shaped (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There
> was no sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using
> the RTV gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block
> heater and replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can
> see in there a bit.
>
> Clint
sure I'm seeing it right. I would cover everything make sure no grit
gets in bad places, use a 4" grinder to clean up the bolt and get it
flat. If you have a welder, take a suitable nut, drill out the threads,
counter sink the end, weld the nut onto the bolt. Use LOTS of heat on
the weld. As soon as the red heat goes away, try turning the bolt. If
you snap the weld, just repeat. The differential expansion plus the new
nut is often enough to get it to pop loose.
If not, grind it flat, centerpunch, start drilling. Use LOTS of pressure
with a NEW drill, in the CENTER of the bolts. You might want to use a
LEFT hand drill about .020" smaller than the threads for the final cut.
The left hand action will usually pull the last of the bolt threads out
without nicking the threads in the block. Headbolts on that are 1/2"-13
NC (???) You want to use one size smaller than the tap drill for that
thread. Left hand drills available from www.mcmaster.com not cheap, not
horrible, next day delivery.
Clint wrote:
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do
> you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off
> head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the
> old parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good
> shaped (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There
> was no sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using
> the RTV gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block
> heater and replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can
> see in there a bit.
>
> Clint
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
I HATE it when that happens!! Your pic is not super clear so I'm not
sure I'm seeing it right. I would cover everything make sure no grit
gets in bad places, use a 4" grinder to clean up the bolt and get it
flat. If you have a welder, take a suitable nut, drill out the threads,
counter sink the end, weld the nut onto the bolt. Use LOTS of heat on
the weld. As soon as the red heat goes away, try turning the bolt. If
you snap the weld, just repeat. The differential expansion plus the new
nut is often enough to get it to pop loose.
If not, grind it flat, centerpunch, start drilling. Use LOTS of pressure
with a NEW drill, in the CENTER of the bolts. You might want to use a
LEFT hand drill about .020" smaller than the threads for the final cut.
The left hand action will usually pull the last of the bolt threads out
without nicking the threads in the block. Headbolts on that are 1/2"-13
NC (???) You want to use one size smaller than the tap drill for that
thread. Left hand drills available from www.mcmaster.com not cheap, not
horrible, next day delivery.
Clint wrote:
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do
> you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off
> head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the
> old parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good
> shaped (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There
> was no sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using
> the RTV gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block
> heater and replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can
> see in there a bit.
>
> Clint
sure I'm seeing it right. I would cover everything make sure no grit
gets in bad places, use a 4" grinder to clean up the bolt and get it
flat. If you have a welder, take a suitable nut, drill out the threads,
counter sink the end, weld the nut onto the bolt. Use LOTS of heat on
the weld. As soon as the red heat goes away, try turning the bolt. If
you snap the weld, just repeat. The differential expansion plus the new
nut is often enough to get it to pop loose.
If not, grind it flat, centerpunch, start drilling. Use LOTS of pressure
with a NEW drill, in the CENTER of the bolts. You might want to use a
LEFT hand drill about .020" smaller than the threads for the final cut.
The left hand action will usually pull the last of the bolt threads out
without nicking the threads in the block. Headbolts on that are 1/2"-13
NC (???) You want to use one size smaller than the tap drill for that
thread. Left hand drills available from www.mcmaster.com not cheap, not
horrible, next day delivery.
Clint wrote:
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do
> you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off
> head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the
> old parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good
> shaped (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There
> was no sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using
> the RTV gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block
> heater and replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can
> see in there a bit.
>
> Clint
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Hi Clint,
I like to first hit stuck bolts with a portable propane torch and some
PB blaster. Squirt the PB on there, give it around 30 minutes to soak in.
Wipe up the excess, and heat the bolts up red hot to break the corrosion,
then go for it with the vice grips (carefully!). If the grips just slip,
grind a flat spot on each side of the bolt (usually just two flat spots 180
degrees from each other is enough) to help get a better grip. Be sure to be
careful with other engine parts and grease when wielding a torch.
If the grinding doesn't work and the grips are still slipping, I have
knocked a snug-fitting socket onto the bolt and welded it to the bolt, then
used a ratchet and cheater bar. As a bonus, the welding helps heat the bolt
up as well.
If the first bolt breaks, use a bolt extractor on it and just cut the second
one off flat to make your extracting job easier.
A center punch helps with keeping the bit aligned. After I drill around
1/16th to 1/8th of an inch into the bolt, I like to then begin drilling in
reverse. Sometimes this is enough to back the bolt straight out.
Anyhow, let us know which suggestions you try and which ones work.
HTH
Carl
"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material
> to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
> a bit.
>
> Clint
I like to first hit stuck bolts with a portable propane torch and some
PB blaster. Squirt the PB on there, give it around 30 minutes to soak in.
Wipe up the excess, and heat the bolts up red hot to break the corrosion,
then go for it with the vice grips (carefully!). If the grips just slip,
grind a flat spot on each side of the bolt (usually just two flat spots 180
degrees from each other is enough) to help get a better grip. Be sure to be
careful with other engine parts and grease when wielding a torch.
If the grinding doesn't work and the grips are still slipping, I have
knocked a snug-fitting socket onto the bolt and welded it to the bolt, then
used a ratchet and cheater bar. As a bonus, the welding helps heat the bolt
up as well.
If the first bolt breaks, use a bolt extractor on it and just cut the second
one off flat to make your extracting job easier.
A center punch helps with keeping the bit aligned. After I drill around
1/16th to 1/8th of an inch into the bolt, I like to then begin drilling in
reverse. Sometimes this is enough to back the bolt straight out.
Anyhow, let us know which suggestions you try and which ones work.
HTH
Carl
"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material
> to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
> a bit.
>
> Clint
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Hi Clint,
I like to first hit stuck bolts with a portable propane torch and some
PB blaster. Squirt the PB on there, give it around 30 minutes to soak in.
Wipe up the excess, and heat the bolts up red hot to break the corrosion,
then go for it with the vice grips (carefully!). If the grips just slip,
grind a flat spot on each side of the bolt (usually just two flat spots 180
degrees from each other is enough) to help get a better grip. Be sure to be
careful with other engine parts and grease when wielding a torch.
If the grinding doesn't work and the grips are still slipping, I have
knocked a snug-fitting socket onto the bolt and welded it to the bolt, then
used a ratchet and cheater bar. As a bonus, the welding helps heat the bolt
up as well.
If the first bolt breaks, use a bolt extractor on it and just cut the second
one off flat to make your extracting job easier.
A center punch helps with keeping the bit aligned. After I drill around
1/16th to 1/8th of an inch into the bolt, I like to then begin drilling in
reverse. Sometimes this is enough to back the bolt straight out.
Anyhow, let us know which suggestions you try and which ones work.
HTH
Carl
"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material
> to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
> a bit.
>
> Clint
I like to first hit stuck bolts with a portable propane torch and some
PB blaster. Squirt the PB on there, give it around 30 minutes to soak in.
Wipe up the excess, and heat the bolts up red hot to break the corrosion,
then go for it with the vice grips (carefully!). If the grips just slip,
grind a flat spot on each side of the bolt (usually just two flat spots 180
degrees from each other is enough) to help get a better grip. Be sure to be
careful with other engine parts and grease when wielding a torch.
If the grinding doesn't work and the grips are still slipping, I have
knocked a snug-fitting socket onto the bolt and welded it to the bolt, then
used a ratchet and cheater bar. As a bonus, the welding helps heat the bolt
up as well.
If the first bolt breaks, use a bolt extractor on it and just cut the second
one off flat to make your extracting job easier.
A center punch helps with keeping the bit aligned. After I drill around
1/16th to 1/8th of an inch into the bolt, I like to then begin drilling in
reverse. Sometimes this is enough to back the bolt straight out.
Anyhow, let us know which suggestions you try and which ones work.
HTH
Carl
"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material
> to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
> a bit.
>
> Clint
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Hi Clint,
I like to first hit stuck bolts with a portable propane torch and some
PB blaster. Squirt the PB on there, give it around 30 minutes to soak in.
Wipe up the excess, and heat the bolts up red hot to break the corrosion,
then go for it with the vice grips (carefully!). If the grips just slip,
grind a flat spot on each side of the bolt (usually just two flat spots 180
degrees from each other is enough) to help get a better grip. Be sure to be
careful with other engine parts and grease when wielding a torch.
If the grinding doesn't work and the grips are still slipping, I have
knocked a snug-fitting socket onto the bolt and welded it to the bolt, then
used a ratchet and cheater bar. As a bonus, the welding helps heat the bolt
up as well.
If the first bolt breaks, use a bolt extractor on it and just cut the second
one off flat to make your extracting job easier.
A center punch helps with keeping the bit aligned. After I drill around
1/16th to 1/8th of an inch into the bolt, I like to then begin drilling in
reverse. Sometimes this is enough to back the bolt straight out.
Anyhow, let us know which suggestions you try and which ones work.
HTH
Carl
"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material
> to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
> a bit.
>
> Clint
I like to first hit stuck bolts with a portable propane torch and some
PB blaster. Squirt the PB on there, give it around 30 minutes to soak in.
Wipe up the excess, and heat the bolts up red hot to break the corrosion,
then go for it with the vice grips (carefully!). If the grips just slip,
grind a flat spot on each side of the bolt (usually just two flat spots 180
degrees from each other is enough) to help get a better grip. Be sure to be
careful with other engine parts and grease when wielding a torch.
If the grinding doesn't work and the grips are still slipping, I have
knocked a snug-fitting socket onto the bolt and welded it to the bolt, then
used a ratchet and cheater bar. As a bonus, the welding helps heat the bolt
up as well.
If the first bolt breaks, use a bolt extractor on it and just cut the second
one off flat to make your extracting job easier.
A center punch helps with keeping the bit aligned. After I drill around
1/16th to 1/8th of an inch into the bolt, I like to then begin drilling in
reverse. Sometimes this is enough to back the bolt straight out.
Anyhow, let us know which suggestions you try and which ones work.
HTH
Carl
"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material
> to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
> a bit.
>
> Clint
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
Hmmm... Interesting thought. If I could get two nuts on there, and then
tried to back off the inside one, might that work? I'm thinking it would
work like a lock bolt. Harder I crank, the tighter it'll get.
My neighbor has a welder, I might see if he can drag it over to tack it on.
But since I don't have 220V in the garage, that might put a kink in that
plan.
BTW, the picture is from the top, looking down at the front of the engine.
Jeep hood label right about in my belly button. You can just see the
thermostat housing in the top left corner of the picture.
Clint
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:jZGkh.7808$X72.227@newsread3.news.pas.earthli nk.net...
>I HATE it when that happens!! Your pic is not super clear so I'm not sure
>I'm seeing it right. I would cover everything make sure no grit gets in bad
>places, use a 4" grinder to clean up the bolt and get it flat. If you have
>a welder, take a suitable nut, drill out the threads, counter sink the end,
>weld the nut onto the bolt. Use LOTS of heat on the weld. As soon as the
>red heat goes away, try turning the bolt. If you snap the weld, just
>repeat. The differential expansion plus the new nut is often enough to get
>it to pop loose.
>
> If not, grind it flat, centerpunch, start drilling. Use LOTS of pressure
> with a NEW drill, in the CENTER of the bolts. You might want to use a LEFT
> hand drill about .020" smaller than the threads for the final cut. The
> left hand action will usually pull the last of the bolt threads out
> without nicking the threads in the block. Headbolts on that are 1/2"-13
> NC (???) You want to use one size smaller than the tap drill for that
> thread. Left hand drills available from www.mcmaster.com not cheap, not
> horrible, next day delivery.
>
> Clint wrote:
>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
>> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>>
>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
>> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
>> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>>
>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
>> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
>> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
>> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
>> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
>> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
>> a bit.
>>
>> Clint
tried to back off the inside one, might that work? I'm thinking it would
work like a lock bolt. Harder I crank, the tighter it'll get.
My neighbor has a welder, I might see if he can drag it over to tack it on.
But since I don't have 220V in the garage, that might put a kink in that
plan.
BTW, the picture is from the top, looking down at the front of the engine.
Jeep hood label right about in my belly button. You can just see the
thermostat housing in the top left corner of the picture.
Clint
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:jZGkh.7808$X72.227@newsread3.news.pas.earthli nk.net...
>I HATE it when that happens!! Your pic is not super clear so I'm not sure
>I'm seeing it right. I would cover everything make sure no grit gets in bad
>places, use a 4" grinder to clean up the bolt and get it flat. If you have
>a welder, take a suitable nut, drill out the threads, counter sink the end,
>weld the nut onto the bolt. Use LOTS of heat on the weld. As soon as the
>red heat goes away, try turning the bolt. If you snap the weld, just
>repeat. The differential expansion plus the new nut is often enough to get
>it to pop loose.
>
> If not, grind it flat, centerpunch, start drilling. Use LOTS of pressure
> with a NEW drill, in the CENTER of the bolts. You might want to use a LEFT
> hand drill about .020" smaller than the threads for the final cut. The
> left hand action will usually pull the last of the bolt threads out
> without nicking the threads in the block. Headbolts on that are 1/2"-13
> NC (???) You want to use one size smaller than the tap drill for that
> thread. Left hand drills available from www.mcmaster.com not cheap, not
> horrible, next day delivery.
>
> Clint wrote:
>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
>> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>>
>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
>> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
>> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>>
>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
>> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
>> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
>> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
>> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
>> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
>> a bit.
>>
>> Clint