Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
01-06-2007, 03:41 PM
#131
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
For water jacket bolts I recommend a sealer that says "ethylene glycol
compatible" right on the package.
Earle
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:H_OdnTzwqZvpmT3YnZ2dnUVZ_vmqnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Glad you finally got it, clint. You may want to get some new bolts. Also
be
> sure to use anti-sieze on the new ones, and not the cheesy kind! Do any of
> those bolts pass into the water jacket?
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:fyRnh.554485$1T2.168317@pd7urf2no...
> >I can't believe it, but I think I actually won! I got the last bolt out
> >this morning, so now I can start re-assembling.
> >
> > To get the bolt/broken bit out, I ended up taking a punch and driving it
> > in beside the bit. That let the new bit bite in, instead of spinning on
> > the end of the other bit. After I got as much of the old bolt out as I
> > could, I ran a tap in to clean the threads up, and made sure I could get
> > the new bolt in deep enough to hold things in place. Oh yeah, and to
get
> > clearance to get in there and get things done, I ended up taking off the
> > front of my truck. FYI, to get that off, you need to take the plastic
> > covers for the headlights, and the turn signal lights. There are 4
bolts
> > (2 per side). The bottom two can be reached without taking off the turn
> > signals, but the top two are covered.
> >
> > Anyway, thanks all for your condolences, help, and support! You guys
make
> > up a great group! Hopefully the re-assembly will got smoother than the
> > disassembly, but since I'm using all new parts, I think it will.
> >
> > Clint
> >
> > "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> > news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> >> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my
'88
> >> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> >> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> >> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> >> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
> >> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
> >>
> >> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> >> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do
you
> >> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> >> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
> >>
> >> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the
old
> >> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> >> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was
no
> >> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> >> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater
and
> >> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in
there
> >> a bit.
> >>
> >> Clint
> >
>
>
compatible" right on the package.
Earle
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:H_OdnTzwqZvpmT3YnZ2dnUVZ_vmqnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Glad you finally got it, clint. You may want to get some new bolts. Also
be
> sure to use anti-sieze on the new ones, and not the cheesy kind! Do any of
> those bolts pass into the water jacket?
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:fyRnh.554485$1T2.168317@pd7urf2no...
> >I can't believe it, but I think I actually won! I got the last bolt out
> >this morning, so now I can start re-assembling.
> >
> > To get the bolt/broken bit out, I ended up taking a punch and driving it
> > in beside the bit. That let the new bit bite in, instead of spinning on
> > the end of the other bit. After I got as much of the old bolt out as I
> > could, I ran a tap in to clean the threads up, and made sure I could get
> > the new bolt in deep enough to hold things in place. Oh yeah, and to
get
> > clearance to get in there and get things done, I ended up taking off the
> > front of my truck. FYI, to get that off, you need to take the plastic
> > covers for the headlights, and the turn signal lights. There are 4
bolts
> > (2 per side). The bottom two can be reached without taking off the turn
> > signals, but the top two are covered.
> >
> > Anyway, thanks all for your condolences, help, and support! You guys
make
> > up a great group! Hopefully the re-assembly will got smoother than the
> > disassembly, but since I'm using all new parts, I think it will.
> >
> > Clint
> >
> > "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> > news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> >> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my
'88
> >> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> >> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> >> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> >> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
> >> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
> >>
> >> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> >> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do
you
> >> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> >> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
> >>
> >> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the
old
> >> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> >> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was
no
> >> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> >> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater
and
> >> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in
there
> >> a bit.
> >>
> >> Clint
> >
>
>
01-06-2007, 03:41 PM
#132
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
For water jacket bolts I recommend a sealer that says "ethylene glycol
compatible" right on the package.
Earle
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:H_OdnTzwqZvpmT3YnZ2dnUVZ_vmqnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Glad you finally got it, clint. You may want to get some new bolts. Also
be
> sure to use anti-sieze on the new ones, and not the cheesy kind! Do any of
> those bolts pass into the water jacket?
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:fyRnh.554485$1T2.168317@pd7urf2no...
> >I can't believe it, but I think I actually won! I got the last bolt out
> >this morning, so now I can start re-assembling.
> >
> > To get the bolt/broken bit out, I ended up taking a punch and driving it
> > in beside the bit. That let the new bit bite in, instead of spinning on
> > the end of the other bit. After I got as much of the old bolt out as I
> > could, I ran a tap in to clean the threads up, and made sure I could get
> > the new bolt in deep enough to hold things in place. Oh yeah, and to
get
> > clearance to get in there and get things done, I ended up taking off the
> > front of my truck. FYI, to get that off, you need to take the plastic
> > covers for the headlights, and the turn signal lights. There are 4
bolts
> > (2 per side). The bottom two can be reached without taking off the turn
> > signals, but the top two are covered.
> >
> > Anyway, thanks all for your condolences, help, and support! You guys
make
> > up a great group! Hopefully the re-assembly will got smoother than the
> > disassembly, but since I'm using all new parts, I think it will.
> >
> > Clint
> >
> > "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> > news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> >> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my
'88
> >> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> >> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> >> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> >> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
> >> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
> >>
> >> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> >> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do
you
> >> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> >> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
> >>
> >> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the
old
> >> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> >> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was
no
> >> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> >> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater
and
> >> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in
there
> >> a bit.
> >>
> >> Clint
> >
>
>
compatible" right on the package.
Earle
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:H_OdnTzwqZvpmT3YnZ2dnUVZ_vmqnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Glad you finally got it, clint. You may want to get some new bolts. Also
be
> sure to use anti-sieze on the new ones, and not the cheesy kind! Do any of
> those bolts pass into the water jacket?
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:fyRnh.554485$1T2.168317@pd7urf2no...
> >I can't believe it, but I think I actually won! I got the last bolt out
> >this morning, so now I can start re-assembling.
> >
> > To get the bolt/broken bit out, I ended up taking a punch and driving it
> > in beside the bit. That let the new bit bite in, instead of spinning on
> > the end of the other bit. After I got as much of the old bolt out as I
> > could, I ran a tap in to clean the threads up, and made sure I could get
> > the new bolt in deep enough to hold things in place. Oh yeah, and to
get
> > clearance to get in there and get things done, I ended up taking off the
> > front of my truck. FYI, to get that off, you need to take the plastic
> > covers for the headlights, and the turn signal lights. There are 4
bolts
> > (2 per side). The bottom two can be reached without taking off the turn
> > signals, but the top two are covered.
> >
> > Anyway, thanks all for your condolences, help, and support! You guys
make
> > up a great group! Hopefully the re-assembly will got smoother than the
> > disassembly, but since I'm using all new parts, I think it will.
> >
> > Clint
> >
> > "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> > news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> >> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my
'88
> >> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> >> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> >> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> >> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
> >> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
> >>
> >> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> >> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do
you
> >> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> >> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
> >>
> >> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the
old
> >> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> >> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was
no
> >> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> >> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater
and
> >> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in
there
> >> a bit.
> >>
> >> Clint
> >
>
>
01-06-2007, 03:41 PM
#133
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Best method for extracting bolts with broken off heads...
For water jacket bolts I recommend a sealer that says "ethylene glycol
compatible" right on the package.
Earle
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:H_OdnTzwqZvpmT3YnZ2dnUVZ_vmqnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Glad you finally got it, clint. You may want to get some new bolts. Also
be
> sure to use anti-sieze on the new ones, and not the cheesy kind! Do any of
> those bolts pass into the water jacket?
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:fyRnh.554485$1T2.168317@pd7urf2no...
> >I can't believe it, but I think I actually won! I got the last bolt out
> >this morning, so now I can start re-assembling.
> >
> > To get the bolt/broken bit out, I ended up taking a punch and driving it
> > in beside the bit. That let the new bit bite in, instead of spinning on
> > the end of the other bit. After I got as much of the old bolt out as I
> > could, I ran a tap in to clean the threads up, and made sure I could get
> > the new bolt in deep enough to hold things in place. Oh yeah, and to
get
> > clearance to get in there and get things done, I ended up taking off the
> > front of my truck. FYI, to get that off, you need to take the plastic
> > covers for the headlights, and the turn signal lights. There are 4
bolts
> > (2 per side). The bottom two can be reached without taking off the turn
> > signals, but the top two are covered.
> >
> > Anyway, thanks all for your condolences, help, and support! You guys
make
> > up a great group! Hopefully the re-assembly will got smoother than the
> > disassembly, but since I'm using all new parts, I think it will.
> >
> > Clint
> >
> > "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> > news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> >> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my
'88
> >> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> >> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> >> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> >> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
> >> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
> >>
> >> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> >> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do
you
> >> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> >> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
> >>
> >> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the
old
> >> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> >> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was
no
> >> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> >> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater
and
> >> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in
there
> >> a bit.
> >>
> >> Clint
> >
>
>
compatible" right on the package.
Earle
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:H_OdnTzwqZvpmT3YnZ2dnUVZ_vmqnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Glad you finally got it, clint. You may want to get some new bolts. Also
be
> sure to use anti-sieze on the new ones, and not the cheesy kind! Do any of
> those bolts pass into the water jacket?
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:fyRnh.554485$1T2.168317@pd7urf2no...
> >I can't believe it, but I think I actually won! I got the last bolt out
> >this morning, so now I can start re-assembling.
> >
> > To get the bolt/broken bit out, I ended up taking a punch and driving it
> > in beside the bit. That let the new bit bite in, instead of spinning on
> > the end of the other bit. After I got as much of the old bolt out as I
> > could, I ran a tap in to clean the threads up, and made sure I could get
> > the new bolt in deep enough to hold things in place. Oh yeah, and to
get
> > clearance to get in there and get things done, I ended up taking off the
> > front of my truck. FYI, to get that off, you need to take the plastic
> > covers for the headlights, and the turn signal lights. There are 4
bolts
> > (2 per side). The bottom two can be reached without taking off the turn
> > signals, but the top two are covered.
> >
> > Anyway, thanks all for your condolences, help, and support! You guys
make
> > up a great group! Hopefully the re-assembly will got smoother than the
> > disassembly, but since I'm using all new parts, I think it will.
> >
> > Clint
> >
> > "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> > news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> >> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my
'88
> >> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> >> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> >> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> >> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
> >> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
> >>
> >> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> >> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do
you
> >> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> >> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
> >>
> >> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the
old
> >> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> >> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was
no
> >> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> >> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater
and
> >> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in
there
> >> a bit.
> >>
> >> Clint
> >
>
>
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