Not all RTV is compatible with ethylene glycol. It should say on the
package.

Earle

"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:459377a9$0$25782$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
> On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 22:47:16 +0000, Clint wrote:
>
> > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
bolt
> > heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
broken
> > off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material to
grab,
> > assuming that doesn't break off.
> >
> > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
work
> > better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you get
the
> > hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
Center-punch?
> > That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
> >
> > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the
old
> > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in
there a
> > bit.
>
> Lots of good suggestions here. I usually start with the PB Blaster or
> Liquid Wrench the take a large pin punch and rap the bolt sideways going
> as far around as I can get. The back and forth blow from the sides seems
> to break the corrosion pretty well. If you do go the BMFH route, re-apply
> the PB Blaster after you pound on it and let it sit a bit - if you broke
> the corrosion any at all it will get in the threads a lot better.
>
> I use a very thin wipe of RTV on the paper gasket to make it come off
> easier the next time as well as holding the gasket in place while I'm
> lining things up. Watch the seating surface on the thermostat cover -
> the one on my 88 MJ was so corroded that I had to drop it on a belt
> sander to get a usable seat. Funny, I had no problem with the bolt you
> show but the next clockwise was a flaming bitch for me. I coat the
> threads with RTV on the bolts that penetrate the water jacket. I don't
> sweat the seal, but it seems to reduce the corrosion and make them easier
> to get out the next time.
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>

 

So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...

I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I
don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the
vice grips to grab. No joy so far.

Next up:
Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones
mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.

I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts,
mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities
(especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is
right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even
going to be able to get a drill in there.

I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm concerned
about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the garage in
any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and engine oil all
over the place...

Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.

Clint

"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material
> to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
> a bit.
>
> Clint

 

So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...

I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I
don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the
vice grips to grab. No joy so far.

Next up:
Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones
mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.

I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts,
mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities
(especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is
right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even
going to be able to get a drill in there.

I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm concerned
about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the garage in
any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and engine oil all
over the place...

Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.

Clint

"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material
> to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
> a bit.
>
> Clint

 

So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...

I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I
don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the
vice grips to grab. No joy so far.

Next up:
Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones
mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.

I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts,
mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities
(especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is
right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even
going to be able to get a drill in there.

I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm concerned
about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the garage in
any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and engine oil all
over the place...

Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.

Clint

"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material
> to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
> a bit.
>
> Clint

 

Heat with a torch or start drilling.

Carl

"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:SHklh.540934$R63.454264@pd7urf1no...
> So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
>
> I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I
> don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the
> vice grips to grab. No joy so far.
>
> Next up:
> Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
> http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
> I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones
> mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.
>
> I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts,
> mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities
> (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is
> right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even
> going to be able to get a drill in there.
>
> I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm
> concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the
> garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and
> engine oil all over the place...
>
> Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.
>
> Clint
>
> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
>> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>>
>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
>> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
>> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>>
>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
>> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
>> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
>> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
>> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
>> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
>> a bit.
>>
>> Clint
>

 

Heat with a torch or start drilling.

Carl

"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:SHklh.540934$R63.454264@pd7urf1no...
> So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
>
> I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I
> don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the
> vice grips to grab. No joy so far.
>
> Next up:
> Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
> http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
> I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones
> mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.
>
> I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts,
> mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities
> (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is
> right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even
> going to be able to get a drill in there.
>
> I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm
> concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the
> garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and
> engine oil all over the place...
>
> Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.
>
> Clint
>
> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
>> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>>
>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
>> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
>> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>>
>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
>> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
>> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
>> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
>> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
>> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
>> a bit.
>>
>> Clint
>

 

Heat with a torch or start drilling.

Carl

"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:SHklh.540934$R63.454264@pd7urf1no...
> So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
>
> I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I
> don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the
> vice grips to grab. No joy so far.
>
> Next up:
> Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
> http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
> I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones
> mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.
>
> I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts,
> mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities
> (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is
> right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even
> going to be able to get a drill in there.
>
> I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm
> concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the
> garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and
> engine oil all over the place...
>
> Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.
>
> Clint
>
> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
>> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>>
>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
>> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
>> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>>
>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
>> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
>> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
>> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
>> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
>> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
>> a bit.
>>
>> Clint
>

 

A bit off topic, but related. I have a broken tap in a similar
situation. Nothing to grab and a tap is so hard it will be a bitch to
drill. Any thoughts?
Al

"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:

>Heat with a torch or start drilling.
>
>Carl
>
>"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
>news:SHklh.540934$R63.454264@pd7urf1no...
>> So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
>>
>> I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I
>> don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the
>> vice grips to grab. No joy so far.
>>
>> Next up:
>> Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
>> http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
>> I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones
>> mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.
>>
>> I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts,
>> mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities
>> (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is
>> right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even
>> going to be able to get a drill in there.
>>
>> I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm
>> concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the
>> garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and
>> engine oil all over the place...
>>
>> Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.
>>
>> Clint
>>
>> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
>> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
>>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
>>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
>>> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>>>
>>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
>>> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
>>> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>>>
>>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
>>> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
>>> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
>>> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
>>> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
>>> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
>>> a bit.
>>>
>>> Clint
>>
>
__
Arold "Al" Green

 

A bit off topic, but related. I have a broken tap in a similar
situation. Nothing to grab and a tap is so hard it will be a bitch to
drill. Any thoughts?
Al

"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:

>Heat with a torch or start drilling.
>
>Carl
>
>"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
>news:SHklh.540934$R63.454264@pd7urf1no...
>> So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
>>
>> I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I
>> don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the
>> vice grips to grab. No joy so far.
>>
>> Next up:
>> Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
>> http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
>> I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones
>> mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.
>>
>> I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts,
>> mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities
>> (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is
>> right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even
>> going to be able to get a drill in there.
>>
>> I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm
>> concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the
>> garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and
>> engine oil all over the place...
>>
>> Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.
>>
>> Clint
>>
>> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
>> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
>>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
>>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
>>> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>>>
>>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
>>> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
>>> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>>>
>>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
>>> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
>>> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
>>> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
>>> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
>>> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
>>> a bit.
>>>
>>> Clint
>>
>
__
Arold "Al" Green

 

A bit off topic, but related. I have a broken tap in a similar
situation. Nothing to grab and a tap is so hard it will be a bitch to
drill. Any thoughts?
Al

"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:

>Heat with a torch or start drilling.
>
>Carl
>
>"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
>news:SHklh.540934$R63.454264@pd7urf1no...
>> So far, bolts 2, Clint 0...
>>
>> I've tried the penetrating oil, beating my fustrations on it (gently, so I
>> don't damage anything worse), trying to grind off some flat spots for the
>> vice grips to grab. No joy so far.
>>
>> Next up:
>> Has anyone tried these Irwin devices before?
>> http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100519
>> I've tried a couple of places, but no luck finding some of the other ones
>> mentioned. I'll do some more looking tomorrow, though.
>>
>> I'm concerned about trying to drill into the end of the broken off bolts,
>> mainly because I'm not to confident in my straight-line drilling abilities
>> (especially in metal), and the vertical support bar on the front grill is
>> right in line with the two bolts I have to drill, so I'm not sure I'm even
>> going to be able to get a drill in there.
>>
>> I haven't tried the torch heat/cool cycle yet, mainly because I'm
>> concerned about an engine fire. I should have a fire extinguisher in the
>> garage in any case, but I don't currently. And with penetrating and
>> engine oil all over the place...
>>
>> Thanks for all the helpful advice so far.
>>
>> Clint
>>
>> "Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
>> news:UJCkh.535564$R63.397938@pd7urf1no...
>>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
>>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
>>> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>>>
>>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
>>> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
>>> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>>>
>>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
>>> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
>>> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
>>> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
>>> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
>>> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
>>> a bit.
>>>
>>> Clint
>>
>
__
Arold "Al" Green