Hmmm... Interesting thought. If I could get two nuts on there, and then
tried to back off the inside one, might that work? I'm thinking it would
work like a lock bolt. Harder I crank, the tighter it'll get.

My neighbor has a welder, I might see if he can drag it over to tack it on.
But since I don't have 220V in the garage, that might put a kink in that
plan.

BTW, the picture is from the top, looking down at the front of the engine.
Jeep hood label right about in my belly button. You can just see the
thermostat housing in the top left corner of the picture.

Clint

"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:jZGkh.7808$X72.227@newsread3.news.pas.earthli nk.net...
>I HATE it when that happens!! Your pic is not super clear so I'm not sure
>I'm seeing it right. I would cover everything make sure no grit gets in bad
>places, use a 4" grinder to clean up the bolt and get it flat. If you have
>a welder, take a suitable nut, drill out the threads, counter sink the end,
>weld the nut onto the bolt. Use LOTS of heat on the weld. As soon as the
>red heat goes away, try turning the bolt. If you snap the weld, just
>repeat. The differential expansion plus the new nut is often enough to get
>it to pop loose.
>
> If not, grind it flat, centerpunch, start drilling. Use LOTS of pressure
> with a NEW drill, in the CENTER of the bolts. You might want to use a LEFT
> hand drill about .020" smaller than the threads for the final cut. The
> left hand action will usually pull the last of the bolt threads out
> without nicking the threads in the block. Headbolts on that are 1/2"-13
> NC (???) You want to use one size smaller than the tap drill for that
> thread. Left hand drills available from www.mcmaster.com not cheap, not
> horrible, next day delivery.
>
> Clint wrote:
>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
>> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>>
>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
>> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
>> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>>
>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
>> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
>> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
>> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
>> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
>> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
>> a bit.
>>
>> Clint

 

Hmmm... Interesting thought. If I could get two nuts on there, and then
tried to back off the inside one, might that work? I'm thinking it would
work like a lock bolt. Harder I crank, the tighter it'll get.

My neighbor has a welder, I might see if he can drag it over to tack it on.
But since I don't have 220V in the garage, that might put a kink in that
plan.

BTW, the picture is from the top, looking down at the front of the engine.
Jeep hood label right about in my belly button. You can just see the
thermostat housing in the top left corner of the picture.

Clint

"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:jZGkh.7808$X72.227@newsread3.news.pas.earthli nk.net...
>I HATE it when that happens!! Your pic is not super clear so I'm not sure
>I'm seeing it right. I would cover everything make sure no grit gets in bad
>places, use a 4" grinder to clean up the bolt and get it flat. If you have
>a welder, take a suitable nut, drill out the threads, counter sink the end,
>weld the nut onto the bolt. Use LOTS of heat on the weld. As soon as the
>red heat goes away, try turning the bolt. If you snap the weld, just
>repeat. The differential expansion plus the new nut is often enough to get
>it to pop loose.
>
> If not, grind it flat, centerpunch, start drilling. Use LOTS of pressure
> with a NEW drill, in the CENTER of the bolts. You might want to use a LEFT
> hand drill about .020" smaller than the threads for the final cut. The
> left hand action will usually pull the last of the bolt threads out
> without nicking the threads in the block. Headbolts on that are 1/2"-13
> NC (???) You want to use one size smaller than the tap drill for that
> thread. Left hand drills available from www.mcmaster.com not cheap, not
> horrible, next day delivery.
>
> Clint wrote:
>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
>> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
>> bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
>> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded
>> material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>>
>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
>> work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you
>> get the hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
>> Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>>
>> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
>> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
>> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
>> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
>> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
>> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there
>> a bit.
>>
>> Clint

 

Sears has an extractor with eccentric cams that lock together on the stud.


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:0UCkh.30072$Rj.29056@newsfe19.lga...
> Clint wrote:
>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my
>> '88 Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was
>> likely, two bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to
>> see (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of
>> threaded material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> ow
>
>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of
>> them work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them,
>> how do you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the
>> broken off head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a
>> hammer...
>
> I hate dealing with stuck bolts, But you might have enough to get
> vice grips on. Hit it with some PB blaster, tap the head with
> a hammer a few times, and try. Sears has extractor sockets that
> have left hand threads and might work. Similar to these
> http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...1925_917971002
>
> If they break off flat it's drill time. I use a center punch but
> sometimes a dremmel will be good enough. Just watch you don't
> destroy the threads.
>
> As for the gasket, just make sure it's clean and use the paper gasket.
> Any other stuff in there just sets you up for future leaks.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>

 

Sears has an extractor with eccentric cams that lock together on the stud.


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:0UCkh.30072$Rj.29056@newsfe19.lga...
> Clint wrote:
>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my
>> '88 Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was
>> likely, two bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to
>> see (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of
>> threaded material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> ow
>
>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of
>> them work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them,
>> how do you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the
>> broken off head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a
>> hammer...
>
> I hate dealing with stuck bolts, But you might have enough to get
> vice grips on. Hit it with some PB blaster, tap the head with
> a hammer a few times, and try. Sears has extractor sockets that
> have left hand threads and might work. Similar to these
> http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...1925_917971002
>
> If they break off flat it's drill time. I use a center punch but
> sometimes a dremmel will be good enough. Just watch you don't
> destroy the threads.
>
> As for the gasket, just make sure it's clean and use the paper gasket.
> Any other stuff in there just sets you up for future leaks.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>

 

Sears has an extractor with eccentric cams that lock together on the stud.


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:0UCkh.30072$Rj.29056@newsfe19.lga...
> Clint wrote:
>> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my
>> '88 Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was
>> likely, two bolt heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to
>> see (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
>> broken off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of
>> threaded material to grab, assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> ow
>
>> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of
>> them work better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them,
>> how do you get the hole started with an uneven surface like the
>> broken off head? Center-punch? That'll be fun to get in there with a
>> hammer...
>
> I hate dealing with stuck bolts, But you might have enough to get
> vice grips on. Hit it with some PB blaster, tap the head with
> a hammer a few times, and try. Sears has extractor sockets that
> have left hand threads and might work. Similar to these
> http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...1925_917971002
>
> If they break off flat it's drill time. I use a center punch but
> sometimes a dremmel will be good enough. Just watch you don't
> destroy the threads.
>
> As for the gasket, just make sure it's clean and use the paper gasket.
> Any other stuff in there just sets you up for future leaks.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>

 

On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 22:47:16 +0000, Clint wrote:

> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two bolt
> heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken
> off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material to grab,
> assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them work
> better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you get the
> hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? Center-punch?
> That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there a
> bit.

Lots of good suggestions here. I usually start with the PB Blaster or
Liquid Wrench the take a large pin punch and rap the bolt sideways going
as far around as I can get. The back and forth blow from the sides seems
to break the corrosion pretty well. If you do go the BMFH route, re-apply
the PB Blaster after you pound on it and let it sit a bit - if you broke
the corrosion any at all it will get in the threads a lot better.

I use a very thin wipe of RTV on the paper gasket to make it come off
easier the next time as well as holding the gasket in place while I'm
lining things up. Watch the seating surface on the thermostat cover -
the one on my 88 MJ was so corroded that I had to drop it on a belt
sander to get a usable seat. Funny, I had no problem with the bolt you
show but the next clockwise was a flaming bitch for me. I coat the
threads with RTV on the bolts that penetrate the water jacket. I don't
sweat the seal, but it seems to reduce the corrosion and make them easier
to get out the next time.

--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>

 

On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 22:47:16 +0000, Clint wrote:

> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two bolt
> heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken
> off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material to grab,
> assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them work
> better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you get the
> hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? Center-punch?
> That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there a
> bit.

Lots of good suggestions here. I usually start with the PB Blaster or
Liquid Wrench the take a large pin punch and rap the bolt sideways going
as far around as I can get. The back and forth blow from the sides seems
to break the corrosion pretty well. If you do go the BMFH route, re-apply
the PB Blaster after you pound on it and let it sit a bit - if you broke
the corrosion any at all it will get in the threads a lot better.

I use a very thin wipe of RTV on the paper gasket to make it come off
easier the next time as well as holding the gasket in place while I'm
lining things up. Watch the seating surface on the thermostat cover -
the one on my 88 MJ was so corroded that I had to drop it on a belt
sander to get a usable seat. Funny, I had no problem with the bolt you
show but the next clockwise was a flaming bitch for me. I coat the
threads with RTV on the bolts that penetrate the water jacket. I don't
sweat the seal, but it seems to reduce the corrosion and make them easier
to get out the next time.

--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>

 

On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 22:47:16 +0000, Clint wrote:

> So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two bolt
> heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're broken
> off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material to grab,
> assuming that doesn't break off.
>
> What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them work
> better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you get the
> hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head? Center-punch?
> That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
>
> So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the old
> parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in there a
> bit.

Lots of good suggestions here. I usually start with the PB Blaster or
Liquid Wrench the take a large pin punch and rap the bolt sideways going
as far around as I can get. The back and forth blow from the sides seems
to break the corrosion pretty well. If you do go the BMFH route, re-apply
the PB Blaster after you pound on it and let it sit a bit - if you broke
the corrosion any at all it will get in the threads a lot better.

I use a very thin wipe of RTV on the paper gasket to make it come off
easier the next time as well as holding the gasket in place while I'm
lining things up. Watch the seating surface on the thermostat cover -
the one on my 88 MJ was so corroded that I had to drop it on a belt
sander to get a usable seat. Funny, I had no problem with the bolt you
show but the next clockwise was a flaming bitch for me. I coat the
threads with RTV on the bolts that penetrate the water jacket. I don't
sweat the seal, but it seems to reduce the corrosion and make them easier
to get out the next time.

--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>

 

Not all RTV is compatible with ethylene glycol. It should say on the
package.

Earle

"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:459377a9$0$25782$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
> On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 22:47:16 +0000, Clint wrote:
>
> > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
bolt
> > heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
broken
> > off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material to
grab,
> > assuming that doesn't break off.
> >
> > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
work
> > better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you get
the
> > hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
Center-punch?
> > That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
> >
> > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the
old
> > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in
there a
> > bit.
>
> Lots of good suggestions here. I usually start with the PB Blaster or
> Liquid Wrench the take a large pin punch and rap the bolt sideways going
> as far around as I can get. The back and forth blow from the sides seems
> to break the corrosion pretty well. If you do go the BMFH route, re-apply
> the PB Blaster after you pound on it and let it sit a bit - if you broke
> the corrosion any at all it will get in the threads a lot better.
>
> I use a very thin wipe of RTV on the paper gasket to make it come off
> easier the next time as well as holding the gasket in place while I'm
> lining things up. Watch the seating surface on the thermostat cover -
> the one on my 88 MJ was so corroded that I had to drop it on a belt
> sander to get a usable seat. Funny, I had no problem with the bolt you
> show but the next clockwise was a flaming bitch for me. I coat the
> threads with RTV on the bolts that penetrate the water jacket. I don't
> sweat the seal, but it seems to reduce the corrosion and make them easier
> to get out the next time.
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>

 

Not all RTV is compatible with ethylene glycol. It should say on the
package.

Earle

"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:459377a9$0$25782$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
> On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 22:47:16 +0000, Clint wrote:
>
> > So I'm elbows-deep in pulling out my radiator and water pump from my '88
> > Jeep Comanche (4.0l, if that matters), and as I figured was likely, two
bolt
> > heads broke off. I've got pictures, if you care to see
> > (http://members.shaw.ca/cneufeld/Imag...ck005Small.jpg). They're
broken
> > off just under the head, so there's about 1/2" of threaded material to
grab,
> > assuming that doesn't break off.
> >
> > What's the best method you've found to deal with these? Do any of them
work
> > better than others? If I've got to drill a hole in them, how do you get
the
> > hole started with an uneven surface like the broken off head?
Center-punch?
> > That'll be fun to get in there with a hammer...
> >
> > So far, I figure I'm about 3 hours into the job, and I've got all the
old
> > parts out. The old water pump actually looks like it's in good shaped
> > (vanes all there, looking pretty new), but it was leaking. There was no
> > sign of anything other than the paper gasket; should I be using the RTV
> > gasket gunk as well? Somehow, I've got to get into the block heater and
> > replace it as well. At least with the water pump out, I can see in
there a
> > bit.
>
> Lots of good suggestions here. I usually start with the PB Blaster or
> Liquid Wrench the take a large pin punch and rap the bolt sideways going
> as far around as I can get. The back and forth blow from the sides seems
> to break the corrosion pretty well. If you do go the BMFH route, re-apply
> the PB Blaster after you pound on it and let it sit a bit - if you broke
> the corrosion any at all it will get in the threads a lot better.
>
> I use a very thin wipe of RTV on the paper gasket to make it come off
> easier the next time as well as holding the gasket in place while I'm
> lining things up. Watch the seating surface on the thermostat cover -
> the one on my 88 MJ was so corroded that I had to drop it on a belt
> sander to get a usable seat. Funny, I had no problem with the bolt you
> show but the next clockwise was a flaming bitch for me. I coat the
> threads with RTV on the bolts that penetrate the water jacket. I don't
> sweat the seal, but it seems to reduce the corrosion and make them easier
> to get out the next time.
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>