SoK66

This confusion stems from Rubicon;s poor installation instructions, which
are not clear at all on several points. 1) The Springs mount with the
military wrap ends on the spring hangers, 2) the second set of shims are
installed on the front end to restore caster lost to the kit's longer
shackles. As I mentioned in an earlier response, for safety's sake Robb
should get some steel shims for the front at least.
"Robb S via CarKB.com" <forum@CarKB.com> wrote in message
news:561cd7c314a24c3caf3819a022327f4c@CarKB.com...
> well, the kit comes with longer shackles. I see from your advice and
> bills
> I need to point the pinion up because I have a cv in the front. The Shims
> are aluminum, and someone else had a good point to go to steel, and the
> caster thing too. I think I will install it one way, set her down and see
> where I am at. get her as close as I can, Then take it from there. It is
> a
> build in progress, and haven't done the slip yoke yet, so I may just take
> it down to the local 4X4 shop/alignment, and have them get it perfect for
> me..... I think I have a headache now...;)
>
> --
> Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

SoK66

This confusion stems from Rubicon;s poor installation instructions, which
are not clear at all on several points. 1) The Springs mount with the
military wrap ends on the spring hangers, 2) the second set of shims are
installed on the front end to restore caster lost to the kit's longer
shackles. As I mentioned in an earlier response, for safety's sake Robb
should get some steel shims for the front at least.
"Robb S via CarKB.com" <forum@CarKB.com> wrote in message
news:561cd7c314a24c3caf3819a022327f4c@CarKB.com...
> well, the kit comes with longer shackles. I see from your advice and
> bills
> I need to point the pinion up because I have a cv in the front. The Shims
> are aluminum, and someone else had a good point to go to steel, and the
> caster thing too. I think I will install it one way, set her down and see
> where I am at. get her as close as I can, Then take it from there. It is
> a
> build in progress, and haven't done the slip yoke yet, so I may just take
> it down to the local 4X4 shop/alignment, and have them get it perfect for
> me..... I think I have a headache now...;)
>
> --
> Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

SoK66

This confusion stems from Rubicon;s poor installation instructions, which
are not clear at all on several points. 1) The Springs mount with the
military wrap ends on the spring hangers, 2) the second set of shims are
installed on the front end to restore caster lost to the kit's longer
shackles. As I mentioned in an earlier response, for safety's sake Robb
should get some steel shims for the front at least.
"Robb S via CarKB.com" <forum@CarKB.com> wrote in message
news:561cd7c314a24c3caf3819a022327f4c@CarKB.com...
> well, the kit comes with longer shackles. I see from your advice and
> bills
> I need to point the pinion up because I have a cv in the front. The Shims
> are aluminum, and someone else had a good point to go to steel, and the
> caster thing too. I think I will install it one way, set her down and see
> where I am at. get her as close as I can, Then take it from there. It is
> a
> build in progress, and haven't done the slip yoke yet, so I may just take
> it down to the local 4X4 shop/alignment, and have them get it perfect for
> me..... I think I have a headache now...;)
>
> --
> Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

jeff

Jerry is correct, in fact you may want to have a small tilt downward so
that when the axle rotates under torque load it aligns shafts parallel.
--
jeff

Jerry Bransford wrote:

> Bill, would you stop with the wrong advice please. Without a CV
> driveshaft, he should NOT tilt the pinion shaft up towards the transfer
> case, the pinion shaft must be PARALLEL to the t-case output shaft. Only
> AFTER installing a CV driveshaft, which he is not doing, would your
> recommendation be correct.
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
>> You want to tilt the pinion up towards the transfer, but there's a
>> limit if you don't have the new driveshafts with constant velocity
>> joints: http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html God Bless
>> America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> "Robb S via CarKB.com" wrote:
>>
>>> 89 YJ installing my lift, have angle wedges (degree spacers) for between
>>> the axle and the spring. Which way do they go?? Thick part in front or
>>> towards the back???
>>>
>>> --
>>> Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
>
>

jeff

Jerry is correct, in fact you may want to have a small tilt downward so
that when the axle rotates under torque load it aligns shafts parallel.
--
jeff

Jerry Bransford wrote:

> Bill, would you stop with the wrong advice please. Without a CV
> driveshaft, he should NOT tilt the pinion shaft up towards the transfer
> case, the pinion shaft must be PARALLEL to the t-case output shaft. Only
> AFTER installing a CV driveshaft, which he is not doing, would your
> recommendation be correct.
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
>> You want to tilt the pinion up towards the transfer, but there's a
>> limit if you don't have the new driveshafts with constant velocity
>> joints: http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html God Bless
>> America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> "Robb S via CarKB.com" wrote:
>>
>>> 89 YJ installing my lift, have angle wedges (degree spacers) for between
>>> the axle and the spring. Which way do they go?? Thick part in front or
>>> towards the back???
>>>
>>> --
>>> Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
>
>

jeff

Jerry is correct, in fact you may want to have a small tilt downward so
that when the axle rotates under torque load it aligns shafts parallel.
--
jeff

Jerry Bransford wrote:

> Bill, would you stop with the wrong advice please. Without a CV
> driveshaft, he should NOT tilt the pinion shaft up towards the transfer
> case, the pinion shaft must be PARALLEL to the t-case output shaft. Only
> AFTER installing a CV driveshaft, which he is not doing, would your
> recommendation be correct.
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
>> You want to tilt the pinion up towards the transfer, but there's a
>> limit if you don't have the new driveshafts with constant velocity
>> joints: http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html God Bless
>> America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> "Robb S via CarKB.com" wrote:
>>
>>> 89 YJ installing my lift, have angle wedges (degree spacers) for between
>>> the axle and the spring. Which way do they go?? Thick part in front or
>>> towards the back???
>>>
>>> --
>>> Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
>
>

jeff

Jerry is correct, in fact you may want to have a small tilt downward so
that when the axle rotates under torque load it aligns shafts parallel.
--
jeff

Jerry Bransford wrote:

> Bill, would you stop with the wrong advice please. Without a CV
> driveshaft, he should NOT tilt the pinion shaft up towards the transfer
> case, the pinion shaft must be PARALLEL to the t-case output shaft. Only
> AFTER installing a CV driveshaft, which he is not doing, would your
> recommendation be correct.
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
>> You want to tilt the pinion up towards the transfer, but there's a
>> limit if you don't have the new driveshafts with constant velocity
>> joints: http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html God Bless
>> America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> "Robb S via CarKB.com" wrote:
>>
>>> 89 YJ installing my lift, have angle wedges (degree spacers) for between
>>> the axle and the spring. Which way do they go?? Thick part in front or
>>> towards the back???
>>>
>>> --
>>> Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
>
>

Mike Romain

SoK66 wrote:
>
> > Your front driveshaft already has a CV or 'double cardan' joint so the
> > diff is supposed to point straight at it with the weight of the Jeep on
> > the springs.<
>
> He has a YJ, which doesn;t have a double cardan up front unless he's added
> one. The angle wedges he's refering to come with the Rubicon 4.5" Extreme
> Duty kit and are to compensate for the kits' 1" longer shackles. There's
> another set included in the kit, to be used out back.

Really?

I thought the YJ was the same XJ that has a double cardan up front.

I realized after by reading another of his threads that he has longer
shackles and needs wedges for that abortion.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Mike Romain

SoK66 wrote:
>
> > Your front driveshaft already has a CV or 'double cardan' joint so the
> > diff is supposed to point straight at it with the weight of the Jeep on
> > the springs.<
>
> He has a YJ, which doesn;t have a double cardan up front unless he's added
> one. The angle wedges he's refering to come with the Rubicon 4.5" Extreme
> Duty kit and are to compensate for the kits' 1" longer shackles. There's
> another set included in the kit, to be used out back.

Really?

I thought the YJ was the same XJ that has a double cardan up front.

I realized after by reading another of his threads that he has longer
shackles and needs wedges for that abortion.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Mike Romain

SoK66 wrote:
>
> > Your front driveshaft already has a CV or 'double cardan' joint so the
> > diff is supposed to point straight at it with the weight of the Jeep on
> > the springs.<
>
> He has a YJ, which doesn;t have a double cardan up front unless he's added
> one. The angle wedges he's refering to come with the Rubicon 4.5" Extreme
> Duty kit and are to compensate for the kits' 1" longer shackles. There's
> another set included in the kit, to be used out back.

Really?

I thought the YJ was the same XJ that has a double cardan up front.

I realized after by reading another of his threads that he has longer
shackles and needs wedges for that abortion.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's