Thanks for solving my low fuel pressure problem Dave. I changed the CPS
because I had one in my toolbox and have suffered from an intermittent
no start, it never left me stranded as it would always start with a max
20 min wait. I have spark ( a bright blue) from the coil, I have gas
(maybe to much not sure). I have tried the jumper (block to - batt.).
It sounds a bit different cranking than it did before, with a strong
battery it doesn't seem to turn as fast and there is a bigger drain on
my battery, it fires at the begining of the crank a few times and then
nothing.

 

Thanks for solving my low fuel pressure problem Dave. I changed the CPS
because I had one in my toolbox and have suffered from an intermittent
no start, it never left me stranded as it would always start with a max
20 min wait. I have spark ( a bright blue) from the coil, I have gas
(maybe to much not sure). I have tried the jumper (block to - batt.).
It sounds a bit different cranking than it did before, with a strong
battery it doesn't seem to turn as fast and there is a bigger drain on
my battery, it fires at the begining of the crank a few times and then
nothing.

 

Thanks for solving my low fuel pressure problem Dave. I changed the CPS
because I had one in my toolbox and have suffered from an intermittent
no start, it never left me stranded as it would always start with a max
20 min wait. I have spark ( a bright blue) from the coil, I have gas
(maybe to much not sure). I have tried the jumper (block to - batt.).
It sounds a bit different cranking than it did before, with a strong
battery it doesn't seem to turn as fast and there is a bigger drain on
my battery, it fires at the begining of the crank a few times and then
nothing.

 

A rotten ground strap wire from the engine head to the firewall can/will
cause no start.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

JRK58@MSN.COM wrote:
>
> Well it was a loose hose at the pump, I now have 36 psi and it holds
> for hours but the darn thing still won't start, everything is hooked up
> right. I did a full tune up and changed the CPS and it still won't
> start. It does fire a few times but thats it, any suggestions?

 

A rotten ground strap wire from the engine head to the firewall can/will
cause no start.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

JRK58@MSN.COM wrote:
>
> Well it was a loose hose at the pump, I now have 36 psi and it holds
> for hours but the darn thing still won't start, everything is hooked up
> right. I did a full tune up and changed the CPS and it still won't
> start. It does fire a few times but thats it, any suggestions?

 

A rotten ground strap wire from the engine head to the firewall can/will
cause no start.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

JRK58@MSN.COM wrote:
>
> Well it was a loose hose at the pump, I now have 36 psi and it holds
> for hours but the darn thing still won't start, everything is hooked up
> right. I did a full tune up and changed the CPS and it still won't
> start. It does fire a few times but thats it, any suggestions?

 

You have the wires on wrong!

The distributor only fits in one way and the firing order 'only' works
the way the book shows. The timing is computer controlled with no
distributor movement allowed. (without breaking something anyway)

You need to verify the top dead center on the compression stroke for #1
cylinder and look to see where the rotor is pointing to see if someone
actually did manage to somehow screw up installing the distributor.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

JRK58@MSN.COM wrote:
>
> Yes that is exactly how my manual shows it, but on my jeep the screws
> are between 6&2 and 1&5 not 1&4 and 3&6.Thanks

 

You have the wires on wrong!

The distributor only fits in one way and the firing order 'only' works
the way the book shows. The timing is computer controlled with no
distributor movement allowed. (without breaking something anyway)

You need to verify the top dead center on the compression stroke for #1
cylinder and look to see where the rotor is pointing to see if someone
actually did manage to somehow screw up installing the distributor.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

JRK58@MSN.COM wrote:
>
> Yes that is exactly how my manual shows it, but on my jeep the screws
> are between 6&2 and 1&5 not 1&4 and 3&6.Thanks

 

You have the wires on wrong!

The distributor only fits in one way and the firing order 'only' works
the way the book shows. The timing is computer controlled with no
distributor movement allowed. (without breaking something anyway)

You need to verify the top dead center on the compression stroke for #1
cylinder and look to see where the rotor is pointing to see if someone
actually did manage to somehow screw up installing the distributor.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

JRK58@MSN.COM wrote:
>
> Yes that is exactly how my manual shows it, but on my jeep the screws
> are between 6&2 and 1&5 not 1&4 and 3&6.Thanks

 

I should have said it ran great when I parked it, I haven't done
anything with the distributor, just changed the cap and rotor. The #1
is marked on the cap and is in the same position as the book it's just
the screws that are in a different position. I have to admit that when
it's turning over it does sound like the plug wires are wrong but I
have double checked them and when I replaced them it was one at a time.
Thanks for the reply