Mike! Go out in the snow and check it. Stopped, the rotor's pointed
directly at number one, when we turn the centrifugal advance to it, it's
definitely not passed it closer to five, as the poster said.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> At TDC the rotor should be just passing #1 coming up to the next one #5
> so he has that right and some other issue.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Well Folks it started! I held the choke/flapper thing in the TB open
and it started. I put it all back together and it wouldn't start again,
I took it off again and noticed the vacuum line that goes to the
flapper in the airbox was a bit loose so I cut off 1/2" and hooked it
back up put it back together and now it starts every time.

I do have a concern though now my fuel pump runs constantly, it still
only runs for three seconds when I turn on the key but while cranking &
running it is on constantly, the ballast resister is pretty hot. Is
this normal?

 

Well Folks it started! I held the choke/flapper thing in the TB open
and it started. I put it all back together and it wouldn't start again,
I took it off again and noticed the vacuum line that goes to the
flapper in the airbox was a bit loose so I cut off 1/2" and hooked it
back up put it back together and now it starts every time.

I do have a concern though now my fuel pump runs constantly, it still
only runs for three seconds when I turn on the key but while cranking &
running it is on constantly, the ballast resister is pretty hot. Is
this normal?

 

Well Folks it started! I held the choke/flapper thing in the TB open
and it started. I put it all back together and it wouldn't start again,
I took it off again and noticed the vacuum line that goes to the
flapper in the airbox was a bit loose so I cut off 1/2" and hooked it
back up put it back together and now it starts every time.

I do have a concern though now my fuel pump runs constantly, it still
only runs for three seconds when I turn on the key but while cranking &
running it is on constantly, the ballast resister is pretty hot. Is
this normal?

 

Cool!

That was the throttle you held wide open which is a 'flood clear' to the
engine.

The ballast resistor is there to convert voltage into heat. Only be
concerned if the connections are corroded. In an emergency the two
wires can just be plugged together to keep the fuel pump running.

It is only for noise reduction I read somewhere. The pumps make too
much noise at 14 volts, so they drop them to 9 or so.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

JRK58@MSN.COM wrote:
>
> Well Folks it started! I held the choke/flapper thing in the TB open
> and it started. I put it all back together and it wouldn't start again,
> I took it off again and noticed the vacuum line that goes to the
> flapper in the airbox was a bit loose so I cut off 1/2" and hooked it
> back up put it back together and now it starts every time.
>
> I do have a concern though now my fuel pump runs constantly, it still
> only runs for three seconds when I turn on the key but while cranking &
> running it is on constantly, the ballast resister is pretty hot. Is
> this normal?

 

Cool!

That was the throttle you held wide open which is a 'flood clear' to the
engine.

The ballast resistor is there to convert voltage into heat. Only be
concerned if the connections are corroded. In an emergency the two
wires can just be plugged together to keep the fuel pump running.

It is only for noise reduction I read somewhere. The pumps make too
much noise at 14 volts, so they drop them to 9 or so.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

JRK58@MSN.COM wrote:
>
> Well Folks it started! I held the choke/flapper thing in the TB open
> and it started. I put it all back together and it wouldn't start again,
> I took it off again and noticed the vacuum line that goes to the
> flapper in the airbox was a bit loose so I cut off 1/2" and hooked it
> back up put it back together and now it starts every time.
>
> I do have a concern though now my fuel pump runs constantly, it still
> only runs for three seconds when I turn on the key but while cranking &
> running it is on constantly, the ballast resister is pretty hot. Is
> this normal?

 

Cool!

That was the throttle you held wide open which is a 'flood clear' to the
engine.

The ballast resistor is there to convert voltage into heat. Only be
concerned if the connections are corroded. In an emergency the two
wires can just be plugged together to keep the fuel pump running.

It is only for noise reduction I read somewhere. The pumps make too
much noise at 14 volts, so they drop them to 9 or so.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

JRK58@MSN.COM wrote:
>
> Well Folks it started! I held the choke/flapper thing in the TB open
> and it started. I put it all back together and it wouldn't start again,
> I took it off again and noticed the vacuum line that goes to the
> flapper in the airbox was a bit loose so I cut off 1/2" and hooked it
> back up put it back together and now it starts every time.
>
> I do have a concern though now my fuel pump runs constantly, it still
> only runs for three seconds when I turn on the key but while cranking &
> running it is on constantly, the ballast resister is pretty hot. Is
> this normal?

 

Thanks for all of your help, It is now running better than ever and
starts much faster.The OEM fuel pump was a whole lot quieter though.
Take it easy

 

Thanks for all of your help, It is now running better than ever and
starts much faster.The OEM fuel pump was a whole lot quieter though.
Take it easy

 

Thanks for all of your help, It is now running better than ever and
starts much faster.The OEM fuel pump was a whole lot quieter though.
Take it easy