'86 CJ7 Shaking after ignition is turned off
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 CJ7 Shaking after ignition is turned off
Hmm, if there is blow-by, and every internal combustion engine has some blow
by, ATF isn't so bad for the oil in the crankcase as water. You can get
around this problem by taking the vehicle for a good long ride to heat up
the crankcase contents, or just change the oil, after the treatment. And
see my previous post regarding mosquitoes. ;^)
Earle
"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
news:rgEdg.1020$sP1.945@fed1read07...
> Mike, I've never understood why some always recommend ATF which costs
> money over water which does not cost money. Water works just fine, I
> know of no benefit whatsoever to using ATF over water.
>
> Do you know of some benefit that ATF provides over water when used for
> this purpose?
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > No you need a steady slow stream of 'water' to shock the carbon off.
> >
> > I have had excellent results using a pint of ATF instead of water to do
> > this. The ATF makes a massive cloud of smoke though. I have heard from
> > enough people about the water instead that I will use that next time and
> > see how it goes.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Steve Foley wrote:
> >
> >>Would a spray-bottle work better than pouring it in? I have one I use to
> >>check for bad plug wires. Mist under the hood at night and look for the
> >>light-show.
> >>
> >>"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
> >>news:juwdg.1012$sP1.459@fed1read07...
> >>
> >>
> >>>The cure, if this is the problem and it sounds like it is, is to get
rid
> >>>of the carbon build-up. The easiest way to do this is to slowly (!!)
> >>>feed 12-16 ounces of plain water into the air intake as the engine is
> >>>running, keeping the RPMs up slightly. NO, this will NOT cause
> >>>hydrolock providing you feed the water in slowly and in a controlled
> >>>manner over a minute to two minutes. Just slowly trickle it and
> >>>maintain control over the water so you don't dump it in too quickly by
> >>>accident.
>
> --
> Jerry Bransford
> PP-ASEL N6TAY
> See the Geezer Jeep at
> http://members.***.net/jerrypb/
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
by, ATF isn't so bad for the oil in the crankcase as water. You can get
around this problem by taking the vehicle for a good long ride to heat up
the crankcase contents, or just change the oil, after the treatment. And
see my previous post regarding mosquitoes. ;^)
Earle
"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
news:rgEdg.1020$sP1.945@fed1read07...
> Mike, I've never understood why some always recommend ATF which costs
> money over water which does not cost money. Water works just fine, I
> know of no benefit whatsoever to using ATF over water.
>
> Do you know of some benefit that ATF provides over water when used for
> this purpose?
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > No you need a steady slow stream of 'water' to shock the carbon off.
> >
> > I have had excellent results using a pint of ATF instead of water to do
> > this. The ATF makes a massive cloud of smoke though. I have heard from
> > enough people about the water instead that I will use that next time and
> > see how it goes.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Steve Foley wrote:
> >
> >>Would a spray-bottle work better than pouring it in? I have one I use to
> >>check for bad plug wires. Mist under the hood at night and look for the
> >>light-show.
> >>
> >>"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
> >>news:juwdg.1012$sP1.459@fed1read07...
> >>
> >>
> >>>The cure, if this is the problem and it sounds like it is, is to get
rid
> >>>of the carbon build-up. The easiest way to do this is to slowly (!!)
> >>>feed 12-16 ounces of plain water into the air intake as the engine is
> >>>running, keeping the RPMs up slightly. NO, this will NOT cause
> >>>hydrolock providing you feed the water in slowly and in a controlled
> >>>manner over a minute to two minutes. Just slowly trickle it and
> >>>maintain control over the water so you don't dump it in too quickly by
> >>>accident.
>
> --
> Jerry Bransford
> PP-ASEL N6TAY
> See the Geezer Jeep at
> http://members.***.net/jerrypb/
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 CJ7 Shaking after ignition is turned off
Hmm, if there is blow-by, and every internal combustion engine has some blow
by, ATF isn't so bad for the oil in the crankcase as water. You can get
around this problem by taking the vehicle for a good long ride to heat up
the crankcase contents, or just change the oil, after the treatment. And
see my previous post regarding mosquitoes. ;^)
Earle
"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
news:rgEdg.1020$sP1.945@fed1read07...
> Mike, I've never understood why some always recommend ATF which costs
> money over water which does not cost money. Water works just fine, I
> know of no benefit whatsoever to using ATF over water.
>
> Do you know of some benefit that ATF provides over water when used for
> this purpose?
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > No you need a steady slow stream of 'water' to shock the carbon off.
> >
> > I have had excellent results using a pint of ATF instead of water to do
> > this. The ATF makes a massive cloud of smoke though. I have heard from
> > enough people about the water instead that I will use that next time and
> > see how it goes.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Steve Foley wrote:
> >
> >>Would a spray-bottle work better than pouring it in? I have one I use to
> >>check for bad plug wires. Mist under the hood at night and look for the
> >>light-show.
> >>
> >>"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
> >>news:juwdg.1012$sP1.459@fed1read07...
> >>
> >>
> >>>The cure, if this is the problem and it sounds like it is, is to get
rid
> >>>of the carbon build-up. The easiest way to do this is to slowly (!!)
> >>>feed 12-16 ounces of plain water into the air intake as the engine is
> >>>running, keeping the RPMs up slightly. NO, this will NOT cause
> >>>hydrolock providing you feed the water in slowly and in a controlled
> >>>manner over a minute to two minutes. Just slowly trickle it and
> >>>maintain control over the water so you don't dump it in too quickly by
> >>>accident.
>
> --
> Jerry Bransford
> PP-ASEL N6TAY
> See the Geezer Jeep at
> http://members.***.net/jerrypb/
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
by, ATF isn't so bad for the oil in the crankcase as water. You can get
around this problem by taking the vehicle for a good long ride to heat up
the crankcase contents, or just change the oil, after the treatment. And
see my previous post regarding mosquitoes. ;^)
Earle
"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
news:rgEdg.1020$sP1.945@fed1read07...
> Mike, I've never understood why some always recommend ATF which costs
> money over water which does not cost money. Water works just fine, I
> know of no benefit whatsoever to using ATF over water.
>
> Do you know of some benefit that ATF provides over water when used for
> this purpose?
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > No you need a steady slow stream of 'water' to shock the carbon off.
> >
> > I have had excellent results using a pint of ATF instead of water to do
> > this. The ATF makes a massive cloud of smoke though. I have heard from
> > enough people about the water instead that I will use that next time and
> > see how it goes.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Steve Foley wrote:
> >
> >>Would a spray-bottle work better than pouring it in? I have one I use to
> >>check for bad plug wires. Mist under the hood at night and look for the
> >>light-show.
> >>
> >>"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
> >>news:juwdg.1012$sP1.459@fed1read07...
> >>
> >>
> >>>The cure, if this is the problem and it sounds like it is, is to get
rid
> >>>of the carbon build-up. The easiest way to do this is to slowly (!!)
> >>>feed 12-16 ounces of plain water into the air intake as the engine is
> >>>running, keeping the RPMs up slightly. NO, this will NOT cause
> >>>hydrolock providing you feed the water in slowly and in a controlled
> >>>manner over a minute to two minutes. Just slowly trickle it and
> >>>maintain control over the water so you don't dump it in too quickly by
> >>>accident.
>
> --
> Jerry Bransford
> PP-ASEL N6TAY
> See the Geezer Jeep at
> http://members.***.net/jerrypb/
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 CJ7 Shaking after ignition is turned off
Hmm, if there is blow-by, and every internal combustion engine has some blow
by, ATF isn't so bad for the oil in the crankcase as water. You can get
around this problem by taking the vehicle for a good long ride to heat up
the crankcase contents, or just change the oil, after the treatment. And
see my previous post regarding mosquitoes. ;^)
Earle
"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
news:rgEdg.1020$sP1.945@fed1read07...
> Mike, I've never understood why some always recommend ATF which costs
> money over water which does not cost money. Water works just fine, I
> know of no benefit whatsoever to using ATF over water.
>
> Do you know of some benefit that ATF provides over water when used for
> this purpose?
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > No you need a steady slow stream of 'water' to shock the carbon off.
> >
> > I have had excellent results using a pint of ATF instead of water to do
> > this. The ATF makes a massive cloud of smoke though. I have heard from
> > enough people about the water instead that I will use that next time and
> > see how it goes.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Steve Foley wrote:
> >
> >>Would a spray-bottle work better than pouring it in? I have one I use to
> >>check for bad plug wires. Mist under the hood at night and look for the
> >>light-show.
> >>
> >>"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
> >>news:juwdg.1012$sP1.459@fed1read07...
> >>
> >>
> >>>The cure, if this is the problem and it sounds like it is, is to get
rid
> >>>of the carbon build-up. The easiest way to do this is to slowly (!!)
> >>>feed 12-16 ounces of plain water into the air intake as the engine is
> >>>running, keeping the RPMs up slightly. NO, this will NOT cause
> >>>hydrolock providing you feed the water in slowly and in a controlled
> >>>manner over a minute to two minutes. Just slowly trickle it and
> >>>maintain control over the water so you don't dump it in too quickly by
> >>>accident.
>
> --
> Jerry Bransford
> PP-ASEL N6TAY
> See the Geezer Jeep at
> http://members.***.net/jerrypb/
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
by, ATF isn't so bad for the oil in the crankcase as water. You can get
around this problem by taking the vehicle for a good long ride to heat up
the crankcase contents, or just change the oil, after the treatment. And
see my previous post regarding mosquitoes. ;^)
Earle
"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
news:rgEdg.1020$sP1.945@fed1read07...
> Mike, I've never understood why some always recommend ATF which costs
> money over water which does not cost money. Water works just fine, I
> know of no benefit whatsoever to using ATF over water.
>
> Do you know of some benefit that ATF provides over water when used for
> this purpose?
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > No you need a steady slow stream of 'water' to shock the carbon off.
> >
> > I have had excellent results using a pint of ATF instead of water to do
> > this. The ATF makes a massive cloud of smoke though. I have heard from
> > enough people about the water instead that I will use that next time and
> > see how it goes.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Steve Foley wrote:
> >
> >>Would a spray-bottle work better than pouring it in? I have one I use to
> >>check for bad plug wires. Mist under the hood at night and look for the
> >>light-show.
> >>
> >>"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
> >>news:juwdg.1012$sP1.459@fed1read07...
> >>
> >>
> >>>The cure, if this is the problem and it sounds like it is, is to get
rid
> >>>of the carbon build-up. The easiest way to do this is to slowly (!!)
> >>>feed 12-16 ounces of plain water into the air intake as the engine is
> >>>running, keeping the RPMs up slightly. NO, this will NOT cause
> >>>hydrolock providing you feed the water in slowly and in a controlled
> >>>manner over a minute to two minutes. Just slowly trickle it and
> >>>maintain control over the water so you don't dump it in too quickly by
> >>>accident.
>
> --
> Jerry Bransford
> PP-ASEL N6TAY
> See the Geezer Jeep at
> http://members.***.net/jerrypb/
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
#44
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 CJ7 Shaking after ignition is turned off
Normally this is caused by your throttle being open excessively at idle.
This can be caused by several things, but the most common are:
1. Improper idle speed (too high)
2. Improper ignition timing or idle mixture adjustment, which causes the
need for excessive throttle opening at idle to compensate for poor engine
tune.
3. A disconnected or misadjusted idle solenoid.
4. Excessive carbon buildup in combustion chambers which can cause "hot
spots" which will continue to ignite the fuel even with the key off.
If you don't have a solenoid, you can probably add one. They are quite
common on automatic trans equipped vehicles. The purpose of the solenoid is
to provide the correct idle speed when the engine is running, but when the
key is turned off, the solenoid deactivates and lets the throttle close
almost completely. All you need to install the solenoid is the bracket that
attached the solenoid to the carb, and a 12 volt source which is only
charged when the key is in the run position. If you install the solenoid,
just set the idle speed screw on the carb so that the throttle plates are
just barely open, and then set the idle speed with the adjustment on the
solenoid.
Chris
"Jay" <jkauczka@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1148610984.661112.255820@i39g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
>
This can be caused by several things, but the most common are:
1. Improper idle speed (too high)
2. Improper ignition timing or idle mixture adjustment, which causes the
need for excessive throttle opening at idle to compensate for poor engine
tune.
3. A disconnected or misadjusted idle solenoid.
4. Excessive carbon buildup in combustion chambers which can cause "hot
spots" which will continue to ignite the fuel even with the key off.
If you don't have a solenoid, you can probably add one. They are quite
common on automatic trans equipped vehicles. The purpose of the solenoid is
to provide the correct idle speed when the engine is running, but when the
key is turned off, the solenoid deactivates and lets the throttle close
almost completely. All you need to install the solenoid is the bracket that
attached the solenoid to the carb, and a 12 volt source which is only
charged when the key is in the run position. If you install the solenoid,
just set the idle speed screw on the carb so that the throttle plates are
just barely open, and then set the idle speed with the adjustment on the
solenoid.
Chris
"Jay" <jkauczka@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1148610984.661112.255820@i39g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
>
#45
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 CJ7 Shaking after ignition is turned off
Normally this is caused by your throttle being open excessively at idle.
This can be caused by several things, but the most common are:
1. Improper idle speed (too high)
2. Improper ignition timing or idle mixture adjustment, which causes the
need for excessive throttle opening at idle to compensate for poor engine
tune.
3. A disconnected or misadjusted idle solenoid.
4. Excessive carbon buildup in combustion chambers which can cause "hot
spots" which will continue to ignite the fuel even with the key off.
If you don't have a solenoid, you can probably add one. They are quite
common on automatic trans equipped vehicles. The purpose of the solenoid is
to provide the correct idle speed when the engine is running, but when the
key is turned off, the solenoid deactivates and lets the throttle close
almost completely. All you need to install the solenoid is the bracket that
attached the solenoid to the carb, and a 12 volt source which is only
charged when the key is in the run position. If you install the solenoid,
just set the idle speed screw on the carb so that the throttle plates are
just barely open, and then set the idle speed with the adjustment on the
solenoid.
Chris
"Jay" <jkauczka@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1148610984.661112.255820@i39g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
>
This can be caused by several things, but the most common are:
1. Improper idle speed (too high)
2. Improper ignition timing or idle mixture adjustment, which causes the
need for excessive throttle opening at idle to compensate for poor engine
tune.
3. A disconnected or misadjusted idle solenoid.
4. Excessive carbon buildup in combustion chambers which can cause "hot
spots" which will continue to ignite the fuel even with the key off.
If you don't have a solenoid, you can probably add one. They are quite
common on automatic trans equipped vehicles. The purpose of the solenoid is
to provide the correct idle speed when the engine is running, but when the
key is turned off, the solenoid deactivates and lets the throttle close
almost completely. All you need to install the solenoid is the bracket that
attached the solenoid to the carb, and a 12 volt source which is only
charged when the key is in the run position. If you install the solenoid,
just set the idle speed screw on the carb so that the throttle plates are
just barely open, and then set the idle speed with the adjustment on the
solenoid.
Chris
"Jay" <jkauczka@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1148610984.661112.255820@i39g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
>
#46
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 CJ7 Shaking after ignition is turned off
Normally this is caused by your throttle being open excessively at idle.
This can be caused by several things, but the most common are:
1. Improper idle speed (too high)
2. Improper ignition timing or idle mixture adjustment, which causes the
need for excessive throttle opening at idle to compensate for poor engine
tune.
3. A disconnected or misadjusted idle solenoid.
4. Excessive carbon buildup in combustion chambers which can cause "hot
spots" which will continue to ignite the fuel even with the key off.
If you don't have a solenoid, you can probably add one. They are quite
common on automatic trans equipped vehicles. The purpose of the solenoid is
to provide the correct idle speed when the engine is running, but when the
key is turned off, the solenoid deactivates and lets the throttle close
almost completely. All you need to install the solenoid is the bracket that
attached the solenoid to the carb, and a 12 volt source which is only
charged when the key is in the run position. If you install the solenoid,
just set the idle speed screw on the carb so that the throttle plates are
just barely open, and then set the idle speed with the adjustment on the
solenoid.
Chris
"Jay" <jkauczka@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1148610984.661112.255820@i39g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
>
This can be caused by several things, but the most common are:
1. Improper idle speed (too high)
2. Improper ignition timing or idle mixture adjustment, which causes the
need for excessive throttle opening at idle to compensate for poor engine
tune.
3. A disconnected or misadjusted idle solenoid.
4. Excessive carbon buildup in combustion chambers which can cause "hot
spots" which will continue to ignite the fuel even with the key off.
If you don't have a solenoid, you can probably add one. They are quite
common on automatic trans equipped vehicles. The purpose of the solenoid is
to provide the correct idle speed when the engine is running, but when the
key is turned off, the solenoid deactivates and lets the throttle close
almost completely. All you need to install the solenoid is the bracket that
attached the solenoid to the carb, and a 12 volt source which is only
charged when the key is in the run position. If you install the solenoid,
just set the idle speed screw on the carb so that the throttle plates are
just barely open, and then set the idle speed with the adjustment on the
solenoid.
Chris
"Jay" <jkauczka@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1148610984.661112.255820@i39g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
>
#47
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 CJ7 Shaking after ignition is turned off
The solenoids used on CJ engines were just for upping the rpm when you
put an auto in drive or if you have AC, when the AC comes on.
Properly tuned, the engine will not run on.
Adding a solenoid to fix symptoms can lead to a dead engine from carbon
pinging and/or really bad gas mileage or performance or holes in the
pistons because the carb is way off.
I highly recommend the Haynes CJ manual. It is spot on for things like
carb tuning and wiring issues.
The 'most' common cause for carb issues and carbs needing to be adjusted
wrong I have run across is trouble with the PCV or Charcoal canister
(gas tank and float bowl vents) circuit.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
c wrote:
>
> Normally this is caused by your throttle being open excessively at idle.
> This can be caused by several things, but the most common are:
>
> 1. Improper idle speed (too high)
> 2. Improper ignition timing or idle mixture adjustment, which causes the
> need for excessive throttle opening at idle to compensate for poor engine
> tune.
> 3. A disconnected or misadjusted idle solenoid.
> 4. Excessive carbon buildup in combustion chambers which can cause "hot
> spots" which will continue to ignite the fuel even with the key off.
>
> If you don't have a solenoid, you can probably add one. They are quite
> common on automatic trans equipped vehicles. The purpose of the solenoid is
> to provide the correct idle speed when the engine is running, but when the
> key is turned off, the solenoid deactivates and lets the throttle close
> almost completely. All you need to install the solenoid is the bracket that
> attached the solenoid to the carb, and a 12 volt source which is only
> charged when the key is in the run position. If you install the solenoid,
> just set the idle speed screw on the carb so that the throttle plates are
> just barely open, and then set the idle speed with the adjustment on the
> solenoid.
>
> Chris
>
> "Jay" <jkauczka@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1148610984.661112.255820@i39g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> >I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> > About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> > float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> > one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> > all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> > engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> > shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> > have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> > have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> > shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> > drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> > what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> > I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
> >
put an auto in drive or if you have AC, when the AC comes on.
Properly tuned, the engine will not run on.
Adding a solenoid to fix symptoms can lead to a dead engine from carbon
pinging and/or really bad gas mileage or performance or holes in the
pistons because the carb is way off.
I highly recommend the Haynes CJ manual. It is spot on for things like
carb tuning and wiring issues.
The 'most' common cause for carb issues and carbs needing to be adjusted
wrong I have run across is trouble with the PCV or Charcoal canister
(gas tank and float bowl vents) circuit.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
c wrote:
>
> Normally this is caused by your throttle being open excessively at idle.
> This can be caused by several things, but the most common are:
>
> 1. Improper idle speed (too high)
> 2. Improper ignition timing or idle mixture adjustment, which causes the
> need for excessive throttle opening at idle to compensate for poor engine
> tune.
> 3. A disconnected or misadjusted idle solenoid.
> 4. Excessive carbon buildup in combustion chambers which can cause "hot
> spots" which will continue to ignite the fuel even with the key off.
>
> If you don't have a solenoid, you can probably add one. They are quite
> common on automatic trans equipped vehicles. The purpose of the solenoid is
> to provide the correct idle speed when the engine is running, but when the
> key is turned off, the solenoid deactivates and lets the throttle close
> almost completely. All you need to install the solenoid is the bracket that
> attached the solenoid to the carb, and a 12 volt source which is only
> charged when the key is in the run position. If you install the solenoid,
> just set the idle speed screw on the carb so that the throttle plates are
> just barely open, and then set the idle speed with the adjustment on the
> solenoid.
>
> Chris
>
> "Jay" <jkauczka@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1148610984.661112.255820@i39g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> >I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> > About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> > float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> > one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> > all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> > engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> > shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> > have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> > have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> > shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> > drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> > what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> > I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
> >
#48
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 CJ7 Shaking after ignition is turned off
The solenoids used on CJ engines were just for upping the rpm when you
put an auto in drive or if you have AC, when the AC comes on.
Properly tuned, the engine will not run on.
Adding a solenoid to fix symptoms can lead to a dead engine from carbon
pinging and/or really bad gas mileage or performance or holes in the
pistons because the carb is way off.
I highly recommend the Haynes CJ manual. It is spot on for things like
carb tuning and wiring issues.
The 'most' common cause for carb issues and carbs needing to be adjusted
wrong I have run across is trouble with the PCV or Charcoal canister
(gas tank and float bowl vents) circuit.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
c wrote:
>
> Normally this is caused by your throttle being open excessively at idle.
> This can be caused by several things, but the most common are:
>
> 1. Improper idle speed (too high)
> 2. Improper ignition timing or idle mixture adjustment, which causes the
> need for excessive throttle opening at idle to compensate for poor engine
> tune.
> 3. A disconnected or misadjusted idle solenoid.
> 4. Excessive carbon buildup in combustion chambers which can cause "hot
> spots" which will continue to ignite the fuel even with the key off.
>
> If you don't have a solenoid, you can probably add one. They are quite
> common on automatic trans equipped vehicles. The purpose of the solenoid is
> to provide the correct idle speed when the engine is running, but when the
> key is turned off, the solenoid deactivates and lets the throttle close
> almost completely. All you need to install the solenoid is the bracket that
> attached the solenoid to the carb, and a 12 volt source which is only
> charged when the key is in the run position. If you install the solenoid,
> just set the idle speed screw on the carb so that the throttle plates are
> just barely open, and then set the idle speed with the adjustment on the
> solenoid.
>
> Chris
>
> "Jay" <jkauczka@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1148610984.661112.255820@i39g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> >I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> > About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> > float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> > one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> > all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> > engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> > shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> > have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> > have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> > shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> > drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> > what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> > I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
> >
put an auto in drive or if you have AC, when the AC comes on.
Properly tuned, the engine will not run on.
Adding a solenoid to fix symptoms can lead to a dead engine from carbon
pinging and/or really bad gas mileage or performance or holes in the
pistons because the carb is way off.
I highly recommend the Haynes CJ manual. It is spot on for things like
carb tuning and wiring issues.
The 'most' common cause for carb issues and carbs needing to be adjusted
wrong I have run across is trouble with the PCV or Charcoal canister
(gas tank and float bowl vents) circuit.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
c wrote:
>
> Normally this is caused by your throttle being open excessively at idle.
> This can be caused by several things, but the most common are:
>
> 1. Improper idle speed (too high)
> 2. Improper ignition timing or idle mixture adjustment, which causes the
> need for excessive throttle opening at idle to compensate for poor engine
> tune.
> 3. A disconnected or misadjusted idle solenoid.
> 4. Excessive carbon buildup in combustion chambers which can cause "hot
> spots" which will continue to ignite the fuel even with the key off.
>
> If you don't have a solenoid, you can probably add one. They are quite
> common on automatic trans equipped vehicles. The purpose of the solenoid is
> to provide the correct idle speed when the engine is running, but when the
> key is turned off, the solenoid deactivates and lets the throttle close
> almost completely. All you need to install the solenoid is the bracket that
> attached the solenoid to the carb, and a 12 volt source which is only
> charged when the key is in the run position. If you install the solenoid,
> just set the idle speed screw on the carb so that the throttle plates are
> just barely open, and then set the idle speed with the adjustment on the
> solenoid.
>
> Chris
>
> "Jay" <jkauczka@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1148610984.661112.255820@i39g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> >I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> > About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> > float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> > one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> > all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> > engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> > shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> > have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> > have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> > shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> > drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> > what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> > I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
> >
#49
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 CJ7 Shaking after ignition is turned off
The solenoids used on CJ engines were just for upping the rpm when you
put an auto in drive or if you have AC, when the AC comes on.
Properly tuned, the engine will not run on.
Adding a solenoid to fix symptoms can lead to a dead engine from carbon
pinging and/or really bad gas mileage or performance or holes in the
pistons because the carb is way off.
I highly recommend the Haynes CJ manual. It is spot on for things like
carb tuning and wiring issues.
The 'most' common cause for carb issues and carbs needing to be adjusted
wrong I have run across is trouble with the PCV or Charcoal canister
(gas tank and float bowl vents) circuit.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
c wrote:
>
> Normally this is caused by your throttle being open excessively at idle.
> This can be caused by several things, but the most common are:
>
> 1. Improper idle speed (too high)
> 2. Improper ignition timing or idle mixture adjustment, which causes the
> need for excessive throttle opening at idle to compensate for poor engine
> tune.
> 3. A disconnected or misadjusted idle solenoid.
> 4. Excessive carbon buildup in combustion chambers which can cause "hot
> spots" which will continue to ignite the fuel even with the key off.
>
> If you don't have a solenoid, you can probably add one. They are quite
> common on automatic trans equipped vehicles. The purpose of the solenoid is
> to provide the correct idle speed when the engine is running, but when the
> key is turned off, the solenoid deactivates and lets the throttle close
> almost completely. All you need to install the solenoid is the bracket that
> attached the solenoid to the carb, and a 12 volt source which is only
> charged when the key is in the run position. If you install the solenoid,
> just set the idle speed screw on the carb so that the throttle plates are
> just barely open, and then set the idle speed with the adjustment on the
> solenoid.
>
> Chris
>
> "Jay" <jkauczka@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1148610984.661112.255820@i39g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> >I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> > About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> > float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> > one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> > all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> > engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> > shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> > have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> > have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> > shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> > drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> > what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> > I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
> >
put an auto in drive or if you have AC, when the AC comes on.
Properly tuned, the engine will not run on.
Adding a solenoid to fix symptoms can lead to a dead engine from carbon
pinging and/or really bad gas mileage or performance or holes in the
pistons because the carb is way off.
I highly recommend the Haynes CJ manual. It is spot on for things like
carb tuning and wiring issues.
The 'most' common cause for carb issues and carbs needing to be adjusted
wrong I have run across is trouble with the PCV or Charcoal canister
(gas tank and float bowl vents) circuit.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
c wrote:
>
> Normally this is caused by your throttle being open excessively at idle.
> This can be caused by several things, but the most common are:
>
> 1. Improper idle speed (too high)
> 2. Improper ignition timing or idle mixture adjustment, which causes the
> need for excessive throttle opening at idle to compensate for poor engine
> tune.
> 3. A disconnected or misadjusted idle solenoid.
> 4. Excessive carbon buildup in combustion chambers which can cause "hot
> spots" which will continue to ignite the fuel even with the key off.
>
> If you don't have a solenoid, you can probably add one. They are quite
> common on automatic trans equipped vehicles. The purpose of the solenoid is
> to provide the correct idle speed when the engine is running, but when the
> key is turned off, the solenoid deactivates and lets the throttle close
> almost completely. All you need to install the solenoid is the bracket that
> attached the solenoid to the carb, and a 12 volt source which is only
> charged when the key is in the run position. If you install the solenoid,
> just set the idle speed screw on the carb so that the throttle plates are
> just barely open, and then set the idle speed with the adjustment on the
> solenoid.
>
> Chris
>
> "Jay" <jkauczka@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1148610984.661112.255820@i39g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> >I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> > About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> > float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> > one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> > all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> > engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> > shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> > have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> > have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> > shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> > drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> > what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> > I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
> >
#50
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 CJ7 Shaking after ignition is turned off
You're right Mike, I didn't read the end of his post where he said he had
the manual trans. It is always best to correct the problem rather than use a
band-aid.
Chris
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44786E3B.A8942FFA@sympatico.ca...
> The solenoids used on CJ engines were just for upping the rpm when you
> put an auto in drive or if you have AC, when the AC comes on.
>
> Properly tuned, the engine will not run on.
>
> Adding a solenoid to fix symptoms can lead to a dead engine from carbon
> pinging and/or really bad gas mileage or performance or holes in the
> pistons because the carb is way off.
>
> I highly recommend the Haynes CJ manual. It is spot on for things like
> carb tuning and wiring issues.
>
> The 'most' common cause for carb issues and carbs needing to be adjusted
> wrong I have run across is trouble with the PCV or Charcoal canister
> (gas tank and float bowl vents) circuit.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> c wrote:
>>
>> Normally this is caused by your throttle being open excessively at idle.
>> This can be caused by several things, but the most common are:
>>
>> 1. Improper idle speed (too high)
>> 2. Improper ignition timing or idle mixture adjustment, which causes the
>> need for excessive throttle opening at idle to compensate for poor engine
>> tune.
>> 3. A disconnected or misadjusted idle solenoid.
>> 4. Excessive carbon buildup in combustion chambers which can cause "hot
>> spots" which will continue to ignite the fuel even with the key off.
>>
>> If you don't have a solenoid, you can probably add one. They are quite
>> common on automatic trans equipped vehicles. The purpose of the solenoid
>> is
>> to provide the correct idle speed when the engine is running, but when
>> the
>> key is turned off, the solenoid deactivates and lets the throttle close
>> almost completely. All you need to install the solenoid is the bracket
>> that
>> attached the solenoid to the carb, and a 12 volt source which is only
>> charged when the key is in the run position. If you install the solenoid,
>> just set the idle speed screw on the carb so that the throttle plates are
>> just barely open, and then set the idle speed with the adjustment on the
>> solenoid.
>>
>> Chris
>>
>> "Jay" <jkauczka@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:1148610984.661112.255820@i39g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>> >I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
>> > About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
>> > float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
>> > one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
>> > all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
>> > engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
>> > shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
>> > have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
>> > have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
>> > shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
>> > drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
>> > what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
>> > I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
>> >
the manual trans. It is always best to correct the problem rather than use a
band-aid.
Chris
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44786E3B.A8942FFA@sympatico.ca...
> The solenoids used on CJ engines were just for upping the rpm when you
> put an auto in drive or if you have AC, when the AC comes on.
>
> Properly tuned, the engine will not run on.
>
> Adding a solenoid to fix symptoms can lead to a dead engine from carbon
> pinging and/or really bad gas mileage or performance or holes in the
> pistons because the carb is way off.
>
> I highly recommend the Haynes CJ manual. It is spot on for things like
> carb tuning and wiring issues.
>
> The 'most' common cause for carb issues and carbs needing to be adjusted
> wrong I have run across is trouble with the PCV or Charcoal canister
> (gas tank and float bowl vents) circuit.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> c wrote:
>>
>> Normally this is caused by your throttle being open excessively at idle.
>> This can be caused by several things, but the most common are:
>>
>> 1. Improper idle speed (too high)
>> 2. Improper ignition timing or idle mixture adjustment, which causes the
>> need for excessive throttle opening at idle to compensate for poor engine
>> tune.
>> 3. A disconnected or misadjusted idle solenoid.
>> 4. Excessive carbon buildup in combustion chambers which can cause "hot
>> spots" which will continue to ignite the fuel even with the key off.
>>
>> If you don't have a solenoid, you can probably add one. They are quite
>> common on automatic trans equipped vehicles. The purpose of the solenoid
>> is
>> to provide the correct idle speed when the engine is running, but when
>> the
>> key is turned off, the solenoid deactivates and lets the throttle close
>> almost completely. All you need to install the solenoid is the bracket
>> that
>> attached the solenoid to the carb, and a 12 volt source which is only
>> charged when the key is in the run position. If you install the solenoid,
>> just set the idle speed screw on the carb so that the throttle plates are
>> just barely open, and then set the idle speed with the adjustment on the
>> solenoid.
>>
>> Chris
>>
>> "Jay" <jkauczka@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:1148610984.661112.255820@i39g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>> >I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
>> > About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
>> > float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
>> > one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
>> > all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
>> > engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
>> > shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
>> > have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
>> > have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
>> > shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
>> > drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
>> > what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
>> > I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
>> >