'86 CJ7 Shaking after ignition is turned off
05-26-2006, 08:13 AM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 CJ7 Shaking after ignition is turned off
No you need a steady slow stream of 'water' to shock the carbon off.
I have had excellent results using a pint of ATF instead of water to do
this. The ATF makes a massive cloud of smoke though. I have heard from
enough people about the water instead that I will use that next time and
see how it goes.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Steve Foley wrote:
>
> Would a spray-bottle work better than pouring it in? I have one I use to
> check for bad plug wires. Mist under the hood at night and look for the
> light-show.
>
> "Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
> news:juwdg.1012$sP1.459@fed1read07...
>
> > The cure, if this is the problem and it sounds like it is, is to get rid
> > of the carbon build-up. The easiest way to do this is to slowly (!!)
> > feed 12-16 ounces of plain water into the air intake as the engine is
> > running, keeping the RPMs up slightly. NO, this will NOT cause
> > hydrolock providing you feed the water in slowly and in a controlled
> > manner over a minute to two minutes. Just slowly trickle it and
> > maintain control over the water so you don't dump it in too quickly by
> > accident.
I have had excellent results using a pint of ATF instead of water to do
this. The ATF makes a massive cloud of smoke though. I have heard from
enough people about the water instead that I will use that next time and
see how it goes.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Steve Foley wrote:
>
> Would a spray-bottle work better than pouring it in? I have one I use to
> check for bad plug wires. Mist under the hood at night and look for the
> light-show.
>
> "Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
> news:juwdg.1012$sP1.459@fed1read07...
>
> > The cure, if this is the problem and it sounds like it is, is to get rid
> > of the carbon build-up. The easiest way to do this is to slowly (!!)
> > feed 12-16 ounces of plain water into the air intake as the engine is
> > running, keeping the RPMs up slightly. NO, this will NOT cause
> > hydrolock providing you feed the water in slowly and in a controlled
> > manner over a minute to two minutes. Just slowly trickle it and
> > maintain control over the water so you don't dump it in too quickly by
> > accident.
05-26-2006, 08:13 AM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 CJ7 Shaking after ignition is turned off
No you need a steady slow stream of 'water' to shock the carbon off.
I have had excellent results using a pint of ATF instead of water to do
this. The ATF makes a massive cloud of smoke though. I have heard from
enough people about the water instead that I will use that next time and
see how it goes.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Steve Foley wrote:
>
> Would a spray-bottle work better than pouring it in? I have one I use to
> check for bad plug wires. Mist under the hood at night and look for the
> light-show.
>
> "Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
> news:juwdg.1012$sP1.459@fed1read07...
>
> > The cure, if this is the problem and it sounds like it is, is to get rid
> > of the carbon build-up. The easiest way to do this is to slowly (!!)
> > feed 12-16 ounces of plain water into the air intake as the engine is
> > running, keeping the RPMs up slightly. NO, this will NOT cause
> > hydrolock providing you feed the water in slowly and in a controlled
> > manner over a minute to two minutes. Just slowly trickle it and
> > maintain control over the water so you don't dump it in too quickly by
> > accident.
I have had excellent results using a pint of ATF instead of water to do
this. The ATF makes a massive cloud of smoke though. I have heard from
enough people about the water instead that I will use that next time and
see how it goes.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Steve Foley wrote:
>
> Would a spray-bottle work better than pouring it in? I have one I use to
> check for bad plug wires. Mist under the hood at night and look for the
> light-show.
>
> "Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
> news:juwdg.1012$sP1.459@fed1read07...
>
> > The cure, if this is the problem and it sounds like it is, is to get rid
> > of the carbon build-up. The easiest way to do this is to slowly (!!)
> > feed 12-16 ounces of plain water into the air intake as the engine is
> > running, keeping the RPMs up slightly. NO, this will NOT cause
> > hydrolock providing you feed the water in slowly and in a controlled
> > manner over a minute to two minutes. Just slowly trickle it and
> > maintain control over the water so you don't dump it in too quickly by
> > accident.
05-26-2006, 08:29 AM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 CJ7 Shaking after ignition is turned off
Just so you know, the float needles stick all the time with today's
'fuel'. A tap with a piece of 2x4 or a rubber mallet can fix them
sometimes, but you also can just pull the needle and seat out from the
front of the carb and clean the needle's 3 wings and the slide area. I
need to do mine once a year usually.
A carb kit comes with a new needle and seat and the kit costs about
$25.00 and is easy to put in....
The after running can be caused by too high an idle or more likely
carbon buildup. There are comments earlier in the thread about the
carbon and how to get rid of it.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Jay wrote:
>
> I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
'fuel'. A tap with a piece of 2x4 or a rubber mallet can fix them
sometimes, but you also can just pull the needle and seat out from the
front of the carb and clean the needle's 3 wings and the slide area. I
need to do mine once a year usually.
A carb kit comes with a new needle and seat and the kit costs about
$25.00 and is easy to put in....
The after running can be caused by too high an idle or more likely
carbon buildup. There are comments earlier in the thread about the
carbon and how to get rid of it.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Jay wrote:
>
> I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
05-26-2006, 08:29 AM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 CJ7 Shaking after ignition is turned off
Just so you know, the float needles stick all the time with today's
'fuel'. A tap with a piece of 2x4 or a rubber mallet can fix them
sometimes, but you also can just pull the needle and seat out from the
front of the carb and clean the needle's 3 wings and the slide area. I
need to do mine once a year usually.
A carb kit comes with a new needle and seat and the kit costs about
$25.00 and is easy to put in....
The after running can be caused by too high an idle or more likely
carbon buildup. There are comments earlier in the thread about the
carbon and how to get rid of it.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Jay wrote:
>
> I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
'fuel'. A tap with a piece of 2x4 or a rubber mallet can fix them
sometimes, but you also can just pull the needle and seat out from the
front of the carb and clean the needle's 3 wings and the slide area. I
need to do mine once a year usually.
A carb kit comes with a new needle and seat and the kit costs about
$25.00 and is easy to put in....
The after running can be caused by too high an idle or more likely
carbon buildup. There are comments earlier in the thread about the
carbon and how to get rid of it.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Jay wrote:
>
> I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
05-26-2006, 08:29 AM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 CJ7 Shaking after ignition is turned off
Just so you know, the float needles stick all the time with today's
'fuel'. A tap with a piece of 2x4 or a rubber mallet can fix them
sometimes, but you also can just pull the needle and seat out from the
front of the carb and clean the needle's 3 wings and the slide area. I
need to do mine once a year usually.
A carb kit comes with a new needle and seat and the kit costs about
$25.00 and is easy to put in....
The after running can be caused by too high an idle or more likely
carbon buildup. There are comments earlier in the thread about the
carbon and how to get rid of it.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Jay wrote:
>
> I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
'fuel'. A tap with a piece of 2x4 or a rubber mallet can fix them
sometimes, but you also can just pull the needle and seat out from the
front of the carb and clean the needle's 3 wings and the slide area. I
need to do mine once a year usually.
A carb kit comes with a new needle and seat and the kit costs about
$25.00 and is easy to put in....
The after running can be caused by too high an idle or more likely
carbon buildup. There are comments earlier in the thread about the
carbon and how to get rid of it.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Jay wrote:
>
> I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
05-26-2006, 10:01 AM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 CJ7 Shaking after ignition is turned off
If you live in the "rust belt", ATF is good for clearing mosquitoes out of
your neighborhood. ;^)
Try properly adjusting the idle speed and mixture properly, before doing
anything like this. A rebuilt carburetor does not come from the rebuilder
with these set up for you.
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4476F0D8.75EA0732@sympatico.ca...
> No you need a steady slow stream of 'water' to shock the carbon off.
>
> I have had excellent results using a pint of ATF instead of water to do
> this. The ATF makes a massive cloud of smoke though. I have heard from
> enough people about the water instead that I will use that next time and
> see how it goes.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Steve Foley wrote:
> >
> > Would a spray-bottle work better than pouring it in? I have one I use to
> > check for bad plug wires. Mist under the hood at night and look for the
> > light-show.
> >
> > "Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:juwdg.1012$sP1.459@fed1read07...
> >
> > > The cure, if this is the problem and it sounds like it is, is to get
rid
> > > of the carbon build-up. The easiest way to do this is to slowly (!!)
> > > feed 12-16 ounces of plain water into the air intake as the engine is
> > > running, keeping the RPMs up slightly. NO, this will NOT cause
> > > hydrolock providing you feed the water in slowly and in a controlled
> > > manner over a minute to two minutes. Just slowly trickle it and
> > > maintain control over the water so you don't dump it in too quickly by
> > > accident.
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
your neighborhood. ;^)
Try properly adjusting the idle speed and mixture properly, before doing
anything like this. A rebuilt carburetor does not come from the rebuilder
with these set up for you.
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4476F0D8.75EA0732@sympatico.ca...
> No you need a steady slow stream of 'water' to shock the carbon off.
>
> I have had excellent results using a pint of ATF instead of water to do
> this. The ATF makes a massive cloud of smoke though. I have heard from
> enough people about the water instead that I will use that next time and
> see how it goes.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Steve Foley wrote:
> >
> > Would a spray-bottle work better than pouring it in? I have one I use to
> > check for bad plug wires. Mist under the hood at night and look for the
> > light-show.
> >
> > "Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:juwdg.1012$sP1.459@fed1read07...
> >
> > > The cure, if this is the problem and it sounds like it is, is to get
rid
> > > of the carbon build-up. The easiest way to do this is to slowly (!!)
> > > feed 12-16 ounces of plain water into the air intake as the engine is
> > > running, keeping the RPMs up slightly. NO, this will NOT cause
> > > hydrolock providing you feed the water in slowly and in a controlled
> > > manner over a minute to two minutes. Just slowly trickle it and
> > > maintain control over the water so you don't dump it in too quickly by
> > > accident.
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
05-26-2006, 10:01 AM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 CJ7 Shaking after ignition is turned off
If you live in the "rust belt", ATF is good for clearing mosquitoes out of
your neighborhood. ;^)
Try properly adjusting the idle speed and mixture properly, before doing
anything like this. A rebuilt carburetor does not come from the rebuilder
with these set up for you.
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4476F0D8.75EA0732@sympatico.ca...
> No you need a steady slow stream of 'water' to shock the carbon off.
>
> I have had excellent results using a pint of ATF instead of water to do
> this. The ATF makes a massive cloud of smoke though. I have heard from
> enough people about the water instead that I will use that next time and
> see how it goes.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Steve Foley wrote:
> >
> > Would a spray-bottle work better than pouring it in? I have one I use to
> > check for bad plug wires. Mist under the hood at night and look for the
> > light-show.
> >
> > "Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:juwdg.1012$sP1.459@fed1read07...
> >
> > > The cure, if this is the problem and it sounds like it is, is to get
rid
> > > of the carbon build-up. The easiest way to do this is to slowly (!!)
> > > feed 12-16 ounces of plain water into the air intake as the engine is
> > > running, keeping the RPMs up slightly. NO, this will NOT cause
> > > hydrolock providing you feed the water in slowly and in a controlled
> > > manner over a minute to two minutes. Just slowly trickle it and
> > > maintain control over the water so you don't dump it in too quickly by
> > > accident.
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
your neighborhood. ;^)
Try properly adjusting the idle speed and mixture properly, before doing
anything like this. A rebuilt carburetor does not come from the rebuilder
with these set up for you.
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4476F0D8.75EA0732@sympatico.ca...
> No you need a steady slow stream of 'water' to shock the carbon off.
>
> I have had excellent results using a pint of ATF instead of water to do
> this. The ATF makes a massive cloud of smoke though. I have heard from
> enough people about the water instead that I will use that next time and
> see how it goes.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Steve Foley wrote:
> >
> > Would a spray-bottle work better than pouring it in? I have one I use to
> > check for bad plug wires. Mist under the hood at night and look for the
> > light-show.
> >
> > "Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:juwdg.1012$sP1.459@fed1read07...
> >
> > > The cure, if this is the problem and it sounds like it is, is to get
rid
> > > of the carbon build-up. The easiest way to do this is to slowly (!!)
> > > feed 12-16 ounces of plain water into the air intake as the engine is
> > > running, keeping the RPMs up slightly. NO, this will NOT cause
> > > hydrolock providing you feed the water in slowly and in a controlled
> > > manner over a minute to two minutes. Just slowly trickle it and
> > > maintain control over the water so you don't dump it in too quickly by
> > > accident.
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
05-26-2006, 10:01 AM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 CJ7 Shaking after ignition is turned off
If you live in the "rust belt", ATF is good for clearing mosquitoes out of
your neighborhood. ;^)
Try properly adjusting the idle speed and mixture properly, before doing
anything like this. A rebuilt carburetor does not come from the rebuilder
with these set up for you.
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4476F0D8.75EA0732@sympatico.ca...
> No you need a steady slow stream of 'water' to shock the carbon off.
>
> I have had excellent results using a pint of ATF instead of water to do
> this. The ATF makes a massive cloud of smoke though. I have heard from
> enough people about the water instead that I will use that next time and
> see how it goes.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Steve Foley wrote:
> >
> > Would a spray-bottle work better than pouring it in? I have one I use to
> > check for bad plug wires. Mist under the hood at night and look for the
> > light-show.
> >
> > "Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:juwdg.1012$sP1.459@fed1read07...
> >
> > > The cure, if this is the problem and it sounds like it is, is to get
rid
> > > of the carbon build-up. The easiest way to do this is to slowly (!!)
> > > feed 12-16 ounces of plain water into the air intake as the engine is
> > > running, keeping the RPMs up slightly. NO, this will NOT cause
> > > hydrolock providing you feed the water in slowly and in a controlled
> > > manner over a minute to two minutes. Just slowly trickle it and
> > > maintain control over the water so you don't dump it in too quickly by
> > > accident.
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
your neighborhood. ;^)
Try properly adjusting the idle speed and mixture properly, before doing
anything like this. A rebuilt carburetor does not come from the rebuilder
with these set up for you.
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4476F0D8.75EA0732@sympatico.ca...
> No you need a steady slow stream of 'water' to shock the carbon off.
>
> I have had excellent results using a pint of ATF instead of water to do
> this. The ATF makes a massive cloud of smoke though. I have heard from
> enough people about the water instead that I will use that next time and
> see how it goes.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Steve Foley wrote:
> >
> > Would a spray-bottle work better than pouring it in? I have one I use to
> > check for bad plug wires. Mist under the hood at night and look for the
> > light-show.
> >
> > "Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:juwdg.1012$sP1.459@fed1read07...
> >
> > > The cure, if this is the problem and it sounds like it is, is to get
rid
> > > of the carbon build-up. The easiest way to do this is to slowly (!!)
> > > feed 12-16 ounces of plain water into the air intake as the engine is
> > > running, keeping the RPMs up slightly. NO, this will NOT cause
> > > hydrolock providing you feed the water in slowly and in a controlled
> > > manner over a minute to two minutes. Just slowly trickle it and
> > > maintain control over the water so you don't dump it in too quickly by
> > > accident.
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
05-26-2006, 10:08 AM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 CJ7 Shaking after ignition is turned off
A tap with a 2x4 is a good "diagnostic", but don't get in the habit of using
it as a cure-all. One of my vehicles, a Chevy, has hammer marks all over
the starter housing from a previous owner. The actual problem turned out to
be a dead battery. ;^)
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4476F4A3.B42A6811@sympatico.ca...
> Just so you know, the float needles stick all the time with today's
> 'fuel'. A tap with a piece of 2x4 or a rubber mallet can fix them
> sometimes, but you also can just pull the needle and seat out from the
> front of the carb and clean the needle's 3 wings and the slide area. I
> need to do mine once a year usually.
>
> A carb kit comes with a new needle and seat and the kit costs about
> $25.00 and is easy to put in....
>
> The after running can be caused by too high an idle or more likely
> carbon buildup. There are comments earlier in the thread about the
> carbon and how to get rid of it.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Jay wrote:
> >
> > I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> > About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> > float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> > one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> > all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> > engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> > shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> > have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> > have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> > shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> > drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> > what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> > I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
it as a cure-all. One of my vehicles, a Chevy, has hammer marks all over
the starter housing from a previous owner. The actual problem turned out to
be a dead battery. ;^)
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4476F4A3.B42A6811@sympatico.ca...
> Just so you know, the float needles stick all the time with today's
> 'fuel'. A tap with a piece of 2x4 or a rubber mallet can fix them
> sometimes, but you also can just pull the needle and seat out from the
> front of the carb and clean the needle's 3 wings and the slide area. I
> need to do mine once a year usually.
>
> A carb kit comes with a new needle and seat and the kit costs about
> $25.00 and is easy to put in....
>
> The after running can be caused by too high an idle or more likely
> carbon buildup. There are comments earlier in the thread about the
> carbon and how to get rid of it.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Jay wrote:
> >
> > I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> > About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> > float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> > one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> > all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> > engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> > shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> > have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> > have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> > shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> > drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> > what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> > I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
05-26-2006, 10:08 AM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: '86 CJ7 Shaking after ignition is turned off
A tap with a 2x4 is a good "diagnostic", but don't get in the habit of using
it as a cure-all. One of my vehicles, a Chevy, has hammer marks all over
the starter housing from a previous owner. The actual problem turned out to
be a dead battery. ;^)
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4476F4A3.B42A6811@sympatico.ca...
> Just so you know, the float needles stick all the time with today's
> 'fuel'. A tap with a piece of 2x4 or a rubber mallet can fix them
> sometimes, but you also can just pull the needle and seat out from the
> front of the carb and clean the needle's 3 wings and the slide area. I
> need to do mine once a year usually.
>
> A carb kit comes with a new needle and seat and the kit costs about
> $25.00 and is easy to put in....
>
> The after running can be caused by too high an idle or more likely
> carbon buildup. There are comments earlier in the thread about the
> carbon and how to get rid of it.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Jay wrote:
> >
> > I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> > About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> > float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> > one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> > all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> > engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> > shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> > have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> > have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> > shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> > drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> > what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> > I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
it as a cure-all. One of my vehicles, a Chevy, has hammer marks all over
the starter housing from a previous owner. The actual problem turned out to
be a dead battery. ;^)
Earle
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4476F4A3.B42A6811@sympatico.ca...
> Just so you know, the float needles stick all the time with today's
> 'fuel'. A tap with a piece of 2x4 or a rubber mallet can fix them
> sometimes, but you also can just pull the needle and seat out from the
> front of the carb and clean the needle's 3 wings and the slide area. I
> need to do mine once a year usually.
>
> A carb kit comes with a new needle and seat and the kit costs about
> $25.00 and is easy to put in....
>
> The after running can be caused by too high an idle or more likely
> carbon buildup. There are comments earlier in the thread about the
> carbon and how to get rid of it.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Jay wrote:
> >
> > I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> > About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> > float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> > one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> > all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> > engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> > shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> > have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> > have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> > shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> > drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> > what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> > I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***