Earle Horton

A tap with a 2x4 is a good "diagnostic", but don't get in the habit of using
it as a cure-all. One of my vehicles, a Chevy, has hammer marks all over
the starter housing from a previous owner. The actual problem turned out to
be a dead battery. ;^)

Earle

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4476F4A3.B42A6811@sympatico.ca...
> Just so you know, the float needles stick all the time with today's
> 'fuel'. A tap with a piece of 2x4 or a rubber mallet can fix them
> sometimes, but you also can just pull the needle and seat out from the
> front of the carb and clean the needle's 3 wings and the slide area. I
> need to do mine once a year usually.
>
> A carb kit comes with a new needle and seat and the kit costs about
> $25.00 and is easy to put in....
>
> The after running can be caused by too high an idle or more likely
> carbon buildup. There are comments earlier in the thread about the
> carbon and how to get rid of it.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Jay wrote:
> >
> > I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> > About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> > float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> > one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> > all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> > engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> > shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> > have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> > have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> > shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> > drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> > what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> > I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason



*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***

Mike Romain

When you are at the store and the sucker is puking gas all over the
exhaust, the 2x4 tap is a handy thing to know anyway.... Carbs are
soft, a steel hammer would hurt them unless you use a block of wood as a
buffer.

Mike

Earle Horton wrote:
>
> A tap with a 2x4 is a good "diagnostic", but don't get in the habit of using
> it as a cure-all. One of my vehicles, a Chevy, has hammer marks all over
> the starter housing from a previous owner. The actual problem turned out to
> be a dead battery. ;^)
>
> Earle
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4476F4A3.B42A6811@sympatico.ca...
> > Just so you know, the float needles stick all the time with today's
> > 'fuel'. A tap with a piece of 2x4 or a rubber mallet can fix them
> > sometimes, but you also can just pull the needle and seat out from the
> > front of the carb and clean the needle's 3 wings and the slide area. I
> > need to do mine once a year usually.
> >
> > A carb kit comes with a new needle and seat and the kit costs about
> > $25.00 and is easy to put in....
> >
> > The after running can be caused by too high an idle or more likely
> > carbon buildup. There are comments earlier in the thread about the
> > carbon and how to get rid of it.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Jay wrote:
> > >
> > > I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> > > About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> > > float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> > > one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> > > all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> > > engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> > > shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> > > have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> > > have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> > > shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> > > drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> > > what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> > > I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
>
> *** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***

Mike Romain

When you are at the store and the sucker is puking gas all over the
exhaust, the 2x4 tap is a handy thing to know anyway.... Carbs are
soft, a steel hammer would hurt them unless you use a block of wood as a
buffer.

Mike

Earle Horton wrote:
>
> A tap with a 2x4 is a good "diagnostic", but don't get in the habit of using
> it as a cure-all. One of my vehicles, a Chevy, has hammer marks all over
> the starter housing from a previous owner. The actual problem turned out to
> be a dead battery. ;^)
>
> Earle
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4476F4A3.B42A6811@sympatico.ca...
> > Just so you know, the float needles stick all the time with today's
> > 'fuel'. A tap with a piece of 2x4 or a rubber mallet can fix them
> > sometimes, but you also can just pull the needle and seat out from the
> > front of the carb and clean the needle's 3 wings and the slide area. I
> > need to do mine once a year usually.
> >
> > A carb kit comes with a new needle and seat and the kit costs about
> > $25.00 and is easy to put in....
> >
> > The after running can be caused by too high an idle or more likely
> > carbon buildup. There are comments earlier in the thread about the
> > carbon and how to get rid of it.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Jay wrote:
> > >
> > > I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> > > About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> > > float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> > > one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> > > all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> > > engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> > > shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> > > have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> > > have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> > > shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> > > drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> > > what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> > > I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
>
> *** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***

Mike Romain

When you are at the store and the sucker is puking gas all over the
exhaust, the 2x4 tap is a handy thing to know anyway.... Carbs are
soft, a steel hammer would hurt them unless you use a block of wood as a
buffer.

Mike

Earle Horton wrote:
>
> A tap with a 2x4 is a good "diagnostic", but don't get in the habit of using
> it as a cure-all. One of my vehicles, a Chevy, has hammer marks all over
> the starter housing from a previous owner. The actual problem turned out to
> be a dead battery. ;^)
>
> Earle
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4476F4A3.B42A6811@sympatico.ca...
> > Just so you know, the float needles stick all the time with today's
> > 'fuel'. A tap with a piece of 2x4 or a rubber mallet can fix them
> > sometimes, but you also can just pull the needle and seat out from the
> > front of the carb and clean the needle's 3 wings and the slide area. I
> > need to do mine once a year usually.
> >
> > A carb kit comes with a new needle and seat and the kit costs about
> > $25.00 and is easy to put in....
> >
> > The after running can be caused by too high an idle or more likely
> > carbon buildup. There are comments earlier in the thread about the
> > carbon and how to get rid of it.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Jay wrote:
> > >
> > > I just bought this Jeep a few weeks ago and it was running just fine.
> > > About a week after I got it, I realized it needed a new carb as the
> > > float was stuck in the current one. I replaced the carb with a rebuilt
> > > one and it was running just fine again. Now, maybe two weeks later,
> > > all of a sudden when I turn the ignition off when I get home, the
> > > engine shuts off then maybe a fraction of a second later it starts
> > > shaking like it wants to start up again (sort of like bucking?). I
> > > have noticed the shaking is directly related to the amount of time I
> > > have been driving for. If I run out for a few minutes, it might not
> > > shake at all when I turn it off. But if I go for a half hour long
> > > drive, when I go to turn it off, the engine starts shaking. Any ideas
> > > what could be going on? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
> > > I have a 1986 CJ7 73K, 5 speed manual with an inline 6. Thanks, Jason
>
> *** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***

Jerry Bransford

Mike, I've never understood why some always recommend ATF which costs
money over water which does not cost money. Water works just fine, I
know of no benefit whatsoever to using ATF over water.

Do you know of some benefit that ATF provides over water when used for
this purpose?

Mike Romain wrote:
> No you need a steady slow stream of 'water' to shock the carbon off.
>
> I have had excellent results using a pint of ATF instead of water to do
> this. The ATF makes a massive cloud of smoke though. I have heard from
> enough people about the water instead that I will use that next time and
> see how it goes.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Steve Foley wrote:
>
>>Would a spray-bottle work better than pouring it in? I have one I use to
>>check for bad plug wires. Mist under the hood at night and look for the
>>light-show.
>>
>>"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
>>news:juwdg.1012$sP1.459@fed1read07...
>>
>>
>>>The cure, if this is the problem and it sounds like it is, is to get rid
>>>of the carbon build-up. The easiest way to do this is to slowly (!!)
>>>feed 12-16 ounces of plain water into the air intake as the engine is
>>>running, keeping the RPMs up slightly. NO, this will NOT cause
>>>hydrolock providing you feed the water in slowly and in a controlled
>>>manner over a minute to two minutes. Just slowly trickle it and
>>>maintain control over the water so you don't dump it in too quickly by
>>>accident.

--
Jerry Bransford
PP-ASEL N6TAY
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

Jerry Bransford

Mike, I've never understood why some always recommend ATF which costs
money over water which does not cost money. Water works just fine, I
know of no benefit whatsoever to using ATF over water.

Do you know of some benefit that ATF provides over water when used for
this purpose?

Mike Romain wrote:
> No you need a steady slow stream of 'water' to shock the carbon off.
>
> I have had excellent results using a pint of ATF instead of water to do
> this. The ATF makes a massive cloud of smoke though. I have heard from
> enough people about the water instead that I will use that next time and
> see how it goes.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Steve Foley wrote:
>
>>Would a spray-bottle work better than pouring it in? I have one I use to
>>check for bad plug wires. Mist under the hood at night and look for the
>>light-show.
>>
>>"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
>>news:juwdg.1012$sP1.459@fed1read07...
>>
>>
>>>The cure, if this is the problem and it sounds like it is, is to get rid
>>>of the carbon build-up. The easiest way to do this is to slowly (!!)
>>>feed 12-16 ounces of plain water into the air intake as the engine is
>>>running, keeping the RPMs up slightly. NO, this will NOT cause
>>>hydrolock providing you feed the water in slowly and in a controlled
>>>manner over a minute to two minutes. Just slowly trickle it and
>>>maintain control over the water so you don't dump it in too quickly by
>>>accident.

--
Jerry Bransford
PP-ASEL N6TAY
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

Jerry Bransford

Mike, I've never understood why some always recommend ATF which costs
money over water which does not cost money. Water works just fine, I
know of no benefit whatsoever to using ATF over water.

Do you know of some benefit that ATF provides over water when used for
this purpose?

Mike Romain wrote:
> No you need a steady slow stream of 'water' to shock the carbon off.
>
> I have had excellent results using a pint of ATF instead of water to do
> this. The ATF makes a massive cloud of smoke though. I have heard from
> enough people about the water instead that I will use that next time and
> see how it goes.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Steve Foley wrote:
>
>>Would a spray-bottle work better than pouring it in? I have one I use to
>>check for bad plug wires. Mist under the hood at night and look for the
>>light-show.
>>
>>"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
>>news:juwdg.1012$sP1.459@fed1read07...
>>
>>
>>>The cure, if this is the problem and it sounds like it is, is to get rid
>>>of the carbon build-up. The easiest way to do this is to slowly (!!)
>>>feed 12-16 ounces of plain water into the air intake as the engine is
>>>running, keeping the RPMs up slightly. NO, this will NOT cause
>>>hydrolock providing you feed the water in slowly and in a controlled
>>>manner over a minute to two minutes. Just slowly trickle it and
>>>maintain control over the water so you don't dump it in too quickly by
>>>accident.

--
Jerry Bransford
PP-ASEL N6TAY
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

Mike Romain

No. I learned it from mechanics that used ATF as a part of a major tune
up for city driven vehicles to get rid of 'run on' or dieseling. I know
it works perfect because I use it before doing any head work and some of
the chunks of loose carbon left if it isn't driven before head removal
are quite big.

I think it might be for the visual effects? The tell the customer that
they are decarboning their engine and then they see the vehicle out in
the side parking lot making this amazing cloud of smoke.....????

Or maybe they see the cloud of smoke and ask, then get it done for
theirs???

No real idea Jerry.

I will use water before the next head gasket job I help with and see. I
know a water leak into a cylinder sure cleans up the spark plug....

Mike

Jerry Bransford wrote:
>
> Mike, I've never understood why some always recommend ATF which costs
> money over water which does not cost money. Water works just fine, I
> know of no benefit whatsoever to using ATF over water.
>
> Do you know of some benefit that ATF provides over water when used for
> this purpose?
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > No you need a steady slow stream of 'water' to shock the carbon off.
> >
> > I have had excellent results using a pint of ATF instead of water to do
> > this. The ATF makes a massive cloud of smoke though. I have heard from
> > enough people about the water instead that I will use that next time and
> > see how it goes.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Steve Foley wrote:
> >
> >>Would a spray-bottle work better than pouring it in? I have one I use to
> >>check for bad plug wires. Mist under the hood at night and look for the
> >>light-show.
> >>
> >>"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
> >>news:juwdg.1012$sP1.459@fed1read07...
> >>
> >>
> >>>The cure, if this is the problem and it sounds like it is, is to get rid
> >>>of the carbon build-up. The easiest way to do this is to slowly (!!)
> >>>feed 12-16 ounces of plain water into the air intake as the engine is
> >>>running, keeping the RPMs up slightly. NO, this will NOT cause
> >>>hydrolock providing you feed the water in slowly and in a controlled
> >>>manner over a minute to two minutes. Just slowly trickle it and
> >>>maintain control over the water so you don't dump it in too quickly by
> >>>accident.
>
> --
> Jerry Bransford
> PP-ASEL N6TAY
> See the Geezer Jeep at
> http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

Mike Romain

No. I learned it from mechanics that used ATF as a part of a major tune
up for city driven vehicles to get rid of 'run on' or dieseling. I know
it works perfect because I use it before doing any head work and some of
the chunks of loose carbon left if it isn't driven before head removal
are quite big.

I think it might be for the visual effects? The tell the customer that
they are decarboning their engine and then they see the vehicle out in
the side parking lot making this amazing cloud of smoke.....????

Or maybe they see the cloud of smoke and ask, then get it done for
theirs???

No real idea Jerry.

I will use water before the next head gasket job I help with and see. I
know a water leak into a cylinder sure cleans up the spark plug....

Mike

Jerry Bransford wrote:
>
> Mike, I've never understood why some always recommend ATF which costs
> money over water which does not cost money. Water works just fine, I
> know of no benefit whatsoever to using ATF over water.
>
> Do you know of some benefit that ATF provides over water when used for
> this purpose?
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > No you need a steady slow stream of 'water' to shock the carbon off.
> >
> > I have had excellent results using a pint of ATF instead of water to do
> > this. The ATF makes a massive cloud of smoke though. I have heard from
> > enough people about the water instead that I will use that next time and
> > see how it goes.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Steve Foley wrote:
> >
> >>Would a spray-bottle work better than pouring it in? I have one I use to
> >>check for bad plug wires. Mist under the hood at night and look for the
> >>light-show.
> >>
> >>"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
> >>news:juwdg.1012$sP1.459@fed1read07...
> >>
> >>
> >>>The cure, if this is the problem and it sounds like it is, is to get rid
> >>>of the carbon build-up. The easiest way to do this is to slowly (!!)
> >>>feed 12-16 ounces of plain water into the air intake as the engine is
> >>>running, keeping the RPMs up slightly. NO, this will NOT cause
> >>>hydrolock providing you feed the water in slowly and in a controlled
> >>>manner over a minute to two minutes. Just slowly trickle it and
> >>>maintain control over the water so you don't dump it in too quickly by
> >>>accident.
>
> --
> Jerry Bransford
> PP-ASEL N6TAY
> See the Geezer Jeep at
> http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

Mike Romain

No. I learned it from mechanics that used ATF as a part of a major tune
up for city driven vehicles to get rid of 'run on' or dieseling. I know
it works perfect because I use it before doing any head work and some of
the chunks of loose carbon left if it isn't driven before head removal
are quite big.

I think it might be for the visual effects? The tell the customer that
they are decarboning their engine and then they see the vehicle out in
the side parking lot making this amazing cloud of smoke.....????

Or maybe they see the cloud of smoke and ask, then get it done for
theirs???

No real idea Jerry.

I will use water before the next head gasket job I help with and see. I
know a water leak into a cylinder sure cleans up the spark plug....

Mike

Jerry Bransford wrote:
>
> Mike, I've never understood why some always recommend ATF which costs
> money over water which does not cost money. Water works just fine, I
> know of no benefit whatsoever to using ATF over water.
>
> Do you know of some benefit that ATF provides over water when used for
> this purpose?
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > No you need a steady slow stream of 'water' to shock the carbon off.
> >
> > I have had excellent results using a pint of ATF instead of water to do
> > this. The ATF makes a massive cloud of smoke though. I have heard from
> > enough people about the water instead that I will use that next time and
> > see how it goes.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > Steve Foley wrote:
> >
> >>Would a spray-bottle work better than pouring it in? I have one I use to
> >>check for bad plug wires. Mist under the hood at night and look for the
> >>light-show.
> >>
> >>"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
> >>news:juwdg.1012$sP1.459@fed1read07...
> >>
> >>
> >>>The cure, if this is the problem and it sounds like it is, is to get rid
> >>>of the carbon build-up. The easiest way to do this is to slowly (!!)
> >>>feed 12-16 ounces of plain water into the air intake as the engine is
> >>>running, keeping the RPMs up slightly. NO, this will NOT cause
> >>>hydrolock providing you feed the water in slowly and in a controlled
> >>>manner over a minute to two minutes. Just slowly trickle it and
> >>>maintain control over the water so you don't dump it in too quickly by
> >>>accident.
>
> --
> Jerry Bransford
> PP-ASEL N6TAY
> See the Geezer Jeep at
> http://members.***.net/jerrypb/