Does your oil pressure gauge work?

"Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1143863093.633033.47400@g10g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Nope it does not have a trailer hitch. The Fuse still pops with the
> radio un plugged. The night I drove the vehicle with the headlights on
> the radio was plugged in sitting on the passenger seat it was just not
> mounted in the dash. Again I don't think the radio is the problem cause
> even with it un-plugged it still blows a fuse. The only thing I can
> think of is a dead short but, how would I isolate it with the meter to
> know if its screwed up in the front or in the back. Like I said before
> I'm not good with elecricity. This is the first time I've encounter
> these kinds of problems, I never had these problems before in any of
> the previous vehicles I've owned. Heres a few pics to show you guys
> some of the things I'm talking about, and dealing with.
>
> Pic 1 is of the wire on the radio harness "That is not used" and of
> where the wire was cut and my repair job.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sotzqx
>
> Pic 2 is of the wiring harness that is used and the one that is not
> used.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sou3di
>
> Pic 3 There is an orange wire that is coming off of a part I have no
> idea what it is. The wire is real thin and oranage and ends at nothing
> next to my gas pedal.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=souw4m
>
> Pic 4 Here you'll see where the orange wire from pic 3 ends up and does
> anyone know what that connector is by the gas pedal? It has 3 black
> with white stripes going into it, it breaks off from the main harness
> that goes to the computer?
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sov68x
>
> Pic 5 Is My Nightmare!!!
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sovb5j
>
> Thanks you all for the help and thanks for the ridicule (I'm glad some
> people finds this ammusing)
> I'll figure it out, some way.
>
> Sincerely
>
> Dave
>

 

Does your oil pressure gauge work?

"Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1143863093.633033.47400@g10g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Nope it does not have a trailer hitch. The Fuse still pops with the
> radio un plugged. The night I drove the vehicle with the headlights on
> the radio was plugged in sitting on the passenger seat it was just not
> mounted in the dash. Again I don't think the radio is the problem cause
> even with it un-plugged it still blows a fuse. The only thing I can
> think of is a dead short but, how would I isolate it with the meter to
> know if its screwed up in the front or in the back. Like I said before
> I'm not good with elecricity. This is the first time I've encounter
> these kinds of problems, I never had these problems before in any of
> the previous vehicles I've owned. Heres a few pics to show you guys
> some of the things I'm talking about, and dealing with.
>
> Pic 1 is of the wire on the radio harness "That is not used" and of
> where the wire was cut and my repair job.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sotzqx
>
> Pic 2 is of the wiring harness that is used and the one that is not
> used.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sou3di
>
> Pic 3 There is an orange wire that is coming off of a part I have no
> idea what it is. The wire is real thin and oranage and ends at nothing
> next to my gas pedal.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=souw4m
>
> Pic 4 Here you'll see where the orange wire from pic 3 ends up and does
> anyone know what that connector is by the gas pedal? It has 3 black
> with white stripes going into it, it breaks off from the main harness
> that goes to the computer?
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sov68x
>
> Pic 5 Is My Nightmare!!!
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sovb5j
>
> Thanks you all for the help and thanks for the ridicule (I'm glad some
> people finds this ammusing)
> I'll figure it out, some way.
>
> Sincerely
>
> Dave
>

 

I think you need to stop and go back to the basics.

It was working fine before you decided to 'fix' broken wires and put the
radio back in. Correct?

Therefore I highly recommend you stop trying to look for more trouble
and go back and unfix 'every' connection you taped up or re-connected
because it 'looked' right or was cut. The cuts could be related to the
radio plug.

Some radio harnesses mate up power lines in the plug before they go into
the units and some split up lines inside the plug where you can't see.
This is for radio lights, memory, antenna, ground and power. That cut
line might have been a dead short that you connected back up.

You 'know' you have radio or radio harness troubles because it used to
kill the battery when the radio was plugged in, 'BUT' you said it was
wired wrong so you fixed it... You need to un-fix it.

You have already pulled out 'all' the park circuit and dome light bulbs,
right? That totally eliminates them as suspect. Therefore it is likely
under the dash. The bulbs do internally short sometimes.

The orange wire is the oil pressure sender wire.

The last couple wiring nightmares I personally had dumped in my driveway
were both a case of bad fixes causing more headaches. I had then remove
their fixes and bingo we found the troubles using my multimeter on
volts.

The fact that you pop a fuse as soon as the switch comes on makes it
harder to track down.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Dave G wrote:
>
> Nope it does not have a trailer hitch. The Fuse still pops with the
> radio un plugged. The night I drove the vehicle with the headlights on
> the radio was plugged in sitting on the passenger seat it was just not
> mounted in the dash. Again I don't think the radio is the problem cause
> even with it un-plugged it still blows a fuse. The only thing I can
> think of is a dead short but, how would I isolate it with the meter to
> know if its screwed up in the front or in the back. Like I said before
> I'm not good with elecricity. This is the first time I've encounter
> these kinds of problems, I never had these problems before in any of
> the previous vehicles I've owned. Heres a few pics to show you guys
> some of the things I'm talking about, and dealing with.
>
> Pic 1 is of the wire on the radio harness "That is not used" and of
> where the wire was cut and my repair job.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sotzqx
>
> Pic 2 is of the wiring harness that is used and the one that is not
> used.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sou3di
>
> Pic 3 There is an orange wire that is coming off of a part I have no
> idea what it is. The wire is real thin and oranage and ends at nothing
> next to my gas pedal.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=souw4m
>
> Pic 4 Here you'll see where the orange wire from pic 3 ends up and does
> anyone know what that connector is by the gas pedal? It has 3 black
> with white stripes going into it, it breaks off from the main harness
> that goes to the computer?
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sov68x
>
> Pic 5 Is My Nightmare!!!
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sovb5j
>
> Thanks you all for the help and thanks for the ridicule (I'm glad some
> people finds this ammusing)
> I'll figure it out, some way.
>
> Sincerely
>
> Dave

 

I think you need to stop and go back to the basics.

It was working fine before you decided to 'fix' broken wires and put the
radio back in. Correct?

Therefore I highly recommend you stop trying to look for more trouble
and go back and unfix 'every' connection you taped up or re-connected
because it 'looked' right or was cut. The cuts could be related to the
radio plug.

Some radio harnesses mate up power lines in the plug before they go into
the units and some split up lines inside the plug where you can't see.
This is for radio lights, memory, antenna, ground and power. That cut
line might have been a dead short that you connected back up.

You 'know' you have radio or radio harness troubles because it used to
kill the battery when the radio was plugged in, 'BUT' you said it was
wired wrong so you fixed it... You need to un-fix it.

You have already pulled out 'all' the park circuit and dome light bulbs,
right? That totally eliminates them as suspect. Therefore it is likely
under the dash. The bulbs do internally short sometimes.

The orange wire is the oil pressure sender wire.

The last couple wiring nightmares I personally had dumped in my driveway
were both a case of bad fixes causing more headaches. I had then remove
their fixes and bingo we found the troubles using my multimeter on
volts.

The fact that you pop a fuse as soon as the switch comes on makes it
harder to track down.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Dave G wrote:
>
> Nope it does not have a trailer hitch. The Fuse still pops with the
> radio un plugged. The night I drove the vehicle with the headlights on
> the radio was plugged in sitting on the passenger seat it was just not
> mounted in the dash. Again I don't think the radio is the problem cause
> even with it un-plugged it still blows a fuse. The only thing I can
> think of is a dead short but, how would I isolate it with the meter to
> know if its screwed up in the front or in the back. Like I said before
> I'm not good with elecricity. This is the first time I've encounter
> these kinds of problems, I never had these problems before in any of
> the previous vehicles I've owned. Heres a few pics to show you guys
> some of the things I'm talking about, and dealing with.
>
> Pic 1 is of the wire on the radio harness "That is not used" and of
> where the wire was cut and my repair job.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sotzqx
>
> Pic 2 is of the wiring harness that is used and the one that is not
> used.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sou3di
>
> Pic 3 There is an orange wire that is coming off of a part I have no
> idea what it is. The wire is real thin and oranage and ends at nothing
> next to my gas pedal.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=souw4m
>
> Pic 4 Here you'll see where the orange wire from pic 3 ends up and does
> anyone know what that connector is by the gas pedal? It has 3 black
> with white stripes going into it, it breaks off from the main harness
> that goes to the computer?
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sov68x
>
> Pic 5 Is My Nightmare!!!
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sovb5j
>
> Thanks you all for the help and thanks for the ridicule (I'm glad some
> people finds this ammusing)
> I'll figure it out, some way.
>
> Sincerely
>
> Dave

 

I think you need to stop and go back to the basics.

It was working fine before you decided to 'fix' broken wires and put the
radio back in. Correct?

Therefore I highly recommend you stop trying to look for more trouble
and go back and unfix 'every' connection you taped up or re-connected
because it 'looked' right or was cut. The cuts could be related to the
radio plug.

Some radio harnesses mate up power lines in the plug before they go into
the units and some split up lines inside the plug where you can't see.
This is for radio lights, memory, antenna, ground and power. That cut
line might have been a dead short that you connected back up.

You 'know' you have radio or radio harness troubles because it used to
kill the battery when the radio was plugged in, 'BUT' you said it was
wired wrong so you fixed it... You need to un-fix it.

You have already pulled out 'all' the park circuit and dome light bulbs,
right? That totally eliminates them as suspect. Therefore it is likely
under the dash. The bulbs do internally short sometimes.

The orange wire is the oil pressure sender wire.

The last couple wiring nightmares I personally had dumped in my driveway
were both a case of bad fixes causing more headaches. I had then remove
their fixes and bingo we found the troubles using my multimeter on
volts.

The fact that you pop a fuse as soon as the switch comes on makes it
harder to track down.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Dave G wrote:
>
> Nope it does not have a trailer hitch. The Fuse still pops with the
> radio un plugged. The night I drove the vehicle with the headlights on
> the radio was plugged in sitting on the passenger seat it was just not
> mounted in the dash. Again I don't think the radio is the problem cause
> even with it un-plugged it still blows a fuse. The only thing I can
> think of is a dead short but, how would I isolate it with the meter to
> know if its screwed up in the front or in the back. Like I said before
> I'm not good with elecricity. This is the first time I've encounter
> these kinds of problems, I never had these problems before in any of
> the previous vehicles I've owned. Heres a few pics to show you guys
> some of the things I'm talking about, and dealing with.
>
> Pic 1 is of the wire on the radio harness "That is not used" and of
> where the wire was cut and my repair job.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sotzqx
>
> Pic 2 is of the wiring harness that is used and the one that is not
> used.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sou3di
>
> Pic 3 There is an orange wire that is coming off of a part I have no
> idea what it is. The wire is real thin and oranage and ends at nothing
> next to my gas pedal.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=souw4m
>
> Pic 4 Here you'll see where the orange wire from pic 3 ends up and does
> anyone know what that connector is by the gas pedal? It has 3 black
> with white stripes going into it, it breaks off from the main harness
> that goes to the computer?
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sov68x
>
> Pic 5 Is My Nightmare!!!
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sovb5j
>
> Thanks you all for the help and thanks for the ridicule (I'm glad some
> people finds this ammusing)
> I'll figure it out, some way.
>
> Sincerely
>
> Dave

 

Trust us, Dave, it *is* the radio harness. Not the radio, not the
parking lights, not the dome lights, just the harness.

Resist the temptation to Mickey Mouse some sort of toggle switch to make
the parking and dome lights work. You'll forget and leave them on,
resulting in a dead battery, or you'll forget them and leave them off,
resulting in the person who rear-ends you being all dead-like and your
**** in jail. Not to mention the fact that you'll be leaving a problem
under the dash that could result in a fire in your lap.

Stop worrying about the grounds for your parking lights. Once power
gets past the bulb you don't care (right now, anyway) how it gets back
to the battery. That's just looking under the wrong rock.

Your brake lights and signal lights are on a different fuse, that's why
they work and your parking lights don't. Your headlights are protected
by a circuit breaker, that's why they work with the fuse blown. Your
parking lights are probably on the same fuse as the dash lights (a
feature to let you know when you don't have tail lights). Something in
the radio harness is tying the dash lights to ground, popping the fuse
and taking the parking lights with it. It isn't the bulbs.

Here's a very brief primer on automotive electricity:

(-) (+)
[Ground]-------[ ]--------[FUSE]-----./ .-------@-----[Ground]
[ BATTERY ] Switch Lamp
[ ]


And here's what you've got:

(-) (+) *POP*
[Ground]-------[ ]--------[FUSE]-----./ .--+----@-----[Ground]
[ BATTERY ] Switch | Lamp
[ ] |
\[Ground]

If power gets to Ground before it passes through the load (a lamp,
motor, whatever), the fuse should pop. If the fuse doesn't pop the wire
gets hot, melts the plastic and starts a fire.

IIRC there's a ground wire in the factory radio harness. Hazy memory
suggests that one side of each of the speakers _might_ be at ground too,
so you've got lots of possibilities. Plus what ever non-standard hack
the previous owner did to fark it up in the first place.

Do as Mike suggested: Undo as many of *your* wiring repairs to the radio
harness as you can. Don't trust the aftermarket radio harness color
code to match the factory color code. You can buy a "universal fit"
aftermarket radio harness at your local AUtoZone or other chain retailer
that should come with a color code chart that will tell you which radio
wires do what.

Come to think of it, don't even trust the solid color codes you see in
the XJ's harness, who knows what the previous owner did. Figure out
which ones are speaker wires (using the key from the new harness) and
connect them to the radio harness. Using your meter, _test_ the
remaining wires to make sure it is fed voltage from the fuse that it
should be fed by. Fuse in: power. Fuse out: no power. There should be
two hot leads, one controlled by the keyswitch, one not. Accept no
substitutes. Leave the dash light and power antenna wires out of the
mix, cap both ends of the wires.

Let us know how you make out.


Dave G wrote:
> Nope it does not have a trailer hitch. The Fuse still pops with the
> radio un plugged. The night I drove the vehicle with the headlights on
> the radio was plugged in sitting on the passenger seat it was just not
> mounted in the dash. Again I don't think the radio is the problem cause
> even with it un-plugged it still blows a fuse. The only thing I can
> think of is a dead short but, how would I isolate it with the meter to
> know if its screwed up in the front or in the back. Like I said before
> I'm not good with elecricity. This is the first time I've encounter
> these kinds of problems, I never had these problems before in any of
> the previous vehicles I've owned. Heres a few pics to show you guys
> some of the things I'm talking about, and dealing with.
>
> Pic 1 is of the wire on the radio harness "That is not used" and of
> where the wire was cut and my repair job.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sotzqx
>
> Pic 2 is of the wiring harness that is used and the one that is not
> used.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sou3di
>
> Pic 3 There is an orange wire that is coming off of a part I have no
> idea what it is. The wire is real thin and oranage and ends at nothing
> next to my gas pedal.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=souw4m
>
> Pic 4 Here you'll see where the orange wire from pic 3 ends up and does
> anyone know what that connector is by the gas pedal? It has 3 black
> with white stripes going into it, it breaks off from the main harness
> that goes to the computer?
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sov68x
>
> Pic 5 Is My Nightmare!!!
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sovb5j
>
> Thanks you all for the help and thanks for the ridicule (I'm glad some
> people finds this ammusing)
> I'll figure it out, some way.
>
> Sincerely
>
> Dave
>

 

Trust us, Dave, it *is* the radio harness. Not the radio, not the
parking lights, not the dome lights, just the harness.

Resist the temptation to Mickey Mouse some sort of toggle switch to make
the parking and dome lights work. You'll forget and leave them on,
resulting in a dead battery, or you'll forget them and leave them off,
resulting in the person who rear-ends you being all dead-like and your
**** in jail. Not to mention the fact that you'll be leaving a problem
under the dash that could result in a fire in your lap.

Stop worrying about the grounds for your parking lights. Once power
gets past the bulb you don't care (right now, anyway) how it gets back
to the battery. That's just looking under the wrong rock.

Your brake lights and signal lights are on a different fuse, that's why
they work and your parking lights don't. Your headlights are protected
by a circuit breaker, that's why they work with the fuse blown. Your
parking lights are probably on the same fuse as the dash lights (a
feature to let you know when you don't have tail lights). Something in
the radio harness is tying the dash lights to ground, popping the fuse
and taking the parking lights with it. It isn't the bulbs.

Here's a very brief primer on automotive electricity:

(-) (+)
[Ground]-------[ ]--------[FUSE]-----./ .-------@-----[Ground]
[ BATTERY ] Switch Lamp
[ ]


And here's what you've got:

(-) (+) *POP*
[Ground]-------[ ]--------[FUSE]-----./ .--+----@-----[Ground]
[ BATTERY ] Switch | Lamp
[ ] |
\[Ground]

If power gets to Ground before it passes through the load (a lamp,
motor, whatever), the fuse should pop. If the fuse doesn't pop the wire
gets hot, melts the plastic and starts a fire.

IIRC there's a ground wire in the factory radio harness. Hazy memory
suggests that one side of each of the speakers _might_ be at ground too,
so you've got lots of possibilities. Plus what ever non-standard hack
the previous owner did to fark it up in the first place.

Do as Mike suggested: Undo as many of *your* wiring repairs to the radio
harness as you can. Don't trust the aftermarket radio harness color
code to match the factory color code. You can buy a "universal fit"
aftermarket radio harness at your local AUtoZone or other chain retailer
that should come with a color code chart that will tell you which radio
wires do what.

Come to think of it, don't even trust the solid color codes you see in
the XJ's harness, who knows what the previous owner did. Figure out
which ones are speaker wires (using the key from the new harness) and
connect them to the radio harness. Using your meter, _test_ the
remaining wires to make sure it is fed voltage from the fuse that it
should be fed by. Fuse in: power. Fuse out: no power. There should be
two hot leads, one controlled by the keyswitch, one not. Accept no
substitutes. Leave the dash light and power antenna wires out of the
mix, cap both ends of the wires.

Let us know how you make out.


Dave G wrote:
> Nope it does not have a trailer hitch. The Fuse still pops with the
> radio un plugged. The night I drove the vehicle with the headlights on
> the radio was plugged in sitting on the passenger seat it was just not
> mounted in the dash. Again I don't think the radio is the problem cause
> even with it un-plugged it still blows a fuse. The only thing I can
> think of is a dead short but, how would I isolate it with the meter to
> know if its screwed up in the front or in the back. Like I said before
> I'm not good with elecricity. This is the first time I've encounter
> these kinds of problems, I never had these problems before in any of
> the previous vehicles I've owned. Heres a few pics to show you guys
> some of the things I'm talking about, and dealing with.
>
> Pic 1 is of the wire on the radio harness "That is not used" and of
> where the wire was cut and my repair job.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sotzqx
>
> Pic 2 is of the wiring harness that is used and the one that is not
> used.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sou3di
>
> Pic 3 There is an orange wire that is coming off of a part I have no
> idea what it is. The wire is real thin and oranage and ends at nothing
> next to my gas pedal.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=souw4m
>
> Pic 4 Here you'll see where the orange wire from pic 3 ends up and does
> anyone know what that connector is by the gas pedal? It has 3 black
> with white stripes going into it, it breaks off from the main harness
> that goes to the computer?
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sov68x
>
> Pic 5 Is My Nightmare!!!
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sovb5j
>
> Thanks you all for the help and thanks for the ridicule (I'm glad some
> people finds this ammusing)
> I'll figure it out, some way.
>
> Sincerely
>
> Dave
>

 

Trust us, Dave, it *is* the radio harness. Not the radio, not the
parking lights, not the dome lights, just the harness.

Resist the temptation to Mickey Mouse some sort of toggle switch to make
the parking and dome lights work. You'll forget and leave them on,
resulting in a dead battery, or you'll forget them and leave them off,
resulting in the person who rear-ends you being all dead-like and your
**** in jail. Not to mention the fact that you'll be leaving a problem
under the dash that could result in a fire in your lap.

Stop worrying about the grounds for your parking lights. Once power
gets past the bulb you don't care (right now, anyway) how it gets back
to the battery. That's just looking under the wrong rock.

Your brake lights and signal lights are on a different fuse, that's why
they work and your parking lights don't. Your headlights are protected
by a circuit breaker, that's why they work with the fuse blown. Your
parking lights are probably on the same fuse as the dash lights (a
feature to let you know when you don't have tail lights). Something in
the radio harness is tying the dash lights to ground, popping the fuse
and taking the parking lights with it. It isn't the bulbs.

Here's a very brief primer on automotive electricity:

(-) (+)
[Ground]-------[ ]--------[FUSE]-----./ .-------@-----[Ground]
[ BATTERY ] Switch Lamp
[ ]


And here's what you've got:

(-) (+) *POP*
[Ground]-------[ ]--------[FUSE]-----./ .--+----@-----[Ground]
[ BATTERY ] Switch | Lamp
[ ] |
\[Ground]

If power gets to Ground before it passes through the load (a lamp,
motor, whatever), the fuse should pop. If the fuse doesn't pop the wire
gets hot, melts the plastic and starts a fire.

IIRC there's a ground wire in the factory radio harness. Hazy memory
suggests that one side of each of the speakers _might_ be at ground too,
so you've got lots of possibilities. Plus what ever non-standard hack
the previous owner did to fark it up in the first place.

Do as Mike suggested: Undo as many of *your* wiring repairs to the radio
harness as you can. Don't trust the aftermarket radio harness color
code to match the factory color code. You can buy a "universal fit"
aftermarket radio harness at your local AUtoZone or other chain retailer
that should come with a color code chart that will tell you which radio
wires do what.

Come to think of it, don't even trust the solid color codes you see in
the XJ's harness, who knows what the previous owner did. Figure out
which ones are speaker wires (using the key from the new harness) and
connect them to the radio harness. Using your meter, _test_ the
remaining wires to make sure it is fed voltage from the fuse that it
should be fed by. Fuse in: power. Fuse out: no power. There should be
two hot leads, one controlled by the keyswitch, one not. Accept no
substitutes. Leave the dash light and power antenna wires out of the
mix, cap both ends of the wires.

Let us know how you make out.


Dave G wrote:
> Nope it does not have a trailer hitch. The Fuse still pops with the
> radio un plugged. The night I drove the vehicle with the headlights on
> the radio was plugged in sitting on the passenger seat it was just not
> mounted in the dash. Again I don't think the radio is the problem cause
> even with it un-plugged it still blows a fuse. The only thing I can
> think of is a dead short but, how would I isolate it with the meter to
> know if its screwed up in the front or in the back. Like I said before
> I'm not good with elecricity. This is the first time I've encounter
> these kinds of problems, I never had these problems before in any of
> the previous vehicles I've owned. Heres a few pics to show you guys
> some of the things I'm talking about, and dealing with.
>
> Pic 1 is of the wire on the radio harness "That is not used" and of
> where the wire was cut and my repair job.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sotzqx
>
> Pic 2 is of the wiring harness that is used and the one that is not
> used.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sou3di
>
> Pic 3 There is an orange wire that is coming off of a part I have no
> idea what it is. The wire is real thin and oranage and ends at nothing
> next to my gas pedal.
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=souw4m
>
> Pic 4 Here you'll see where the orange wire from pic 3 ends up and does
> anyone know what that connector is by the gas pedal? It has 3 black
> with white stripes going into it, it breaks off from the main harness
> that goes to the computer?
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sov68x
>
> Pic 5 Is My Nightmare!!!
>
> http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sovb5j
>
> Thanks you all for the help and thanks for the ridicule (I'm glad some
> people finds this ammusing)
> I'll figure it out, some way.
>
> Sincerely
>
> Dave
>

 

I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.

The next few minutes were very exciting.

Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
don't play nice together.

Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!

Jeff DeWitt

Earle Horton wrote:
> I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four years in
> graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
> horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something, about
> driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the lights
> go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later. It
> would have been worse, had it been night time!
>
> You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of the park
> or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the back of
> the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure out
> which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small resistance.
> Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
> insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may also
> help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb socket for
> evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same circuit, it
> may also be the problem.
>
> Earle
>
> "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
>
>>Hi all
>> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
>>pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
>>my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
>>head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
>>the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
>>time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights and
>>instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no problems
>>the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
>>think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio always
>>thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
>>switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
>>someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
>>the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
>>looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses go
>>where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in it,
>>the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried out
>>my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
>>a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
>>up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
>>headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
>>it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
>>a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
>>the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so do
>>my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do come
>>one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
>>interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad ground?
>>Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had this
>>problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
>>. I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
>>stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
>>there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main computer
>>harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
>>Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
>>
>>Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as possiable
>>if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
>>I'll be watching the forum for any help.
>>
>>Sincerely
>>
>>Dave
>>
>
>
>
> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***

 

I was driving my Studebaker pickup down the Blue Ridge Parkway one very
dark foggy night and without any warning the lights went out.

The next few minutes were very exciting.

Turns out that modern halogen lights and 45 year old electrical systems
don't play nice together.

Funny thought, once everything got straightened out that truck has the
best lights of anything I've driven, including my Jeep!

Jeff DeWitt

Earle Horton wrote:
> I have a Physics degree, I studied Electrical Engineering for four years in
> graduate school, and I have done lots of house wiring too, but I have a
> horror of automotive electrical systems. There is just something, about
> driving down a winding country road, with no moon, and having all the lights
> go out at once. I can't forget it, not even thirty-five years later. It
> would have been worse, had it been night time!
>
> You do not have a bad ground. What you have, is the wire to one of the park
> or interior lights shorted to ground. Unplug the connector from the back of
> the light switch. Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter, figure out
> which of the connections to the switch has zero or very small resistance.
> Trace from that connection to the point where there is a wire, with its
> insulation skinned off, contacting part of the vehicle body. It may also
> help to unplug the marker and park light bulbs, and test the bulb socket for
> evidence of a short. If your interior light is part of the same circuit, it
> may also be the problem.
>
> Earle
>
> "Dave G" <davidgibbons81@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1143779121.449626.42570@t31g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
>
>>Hi all
>> I just recently accuired an 86 cherokee. It has had its orignal motor
>>pulled and swapped from an 89, both were/are 2.5l (Not by me.) Here is
>>my problem. I drove the cherokee for about a half hour with all the
>>head lights on with out any problems. It had no radio at the time, so
>>the next day I went over to my bud's house and we put in a radio. This
>>time when I went to pull the headlight switch all my parking lights and
>>instrument lights in the dash are out. The radio works fine no problems
>>the previous owner said that it would drain the batteries power but I
>>think he had the 12v and the key on switch reversed so the radio always
>>thought the key was in the on position. I change the fuse and pull the
>>switch it snaps it. Some fuses it even started to melt them. Now
>>someone also spliced in a remote starter into it,the wiring underneath
>>the dash has more cuts then a Thanksgiving Turkey. I started then
>>looking at the fuse block and a diagram I have of what kind of fuses go
>>where and what amp-age. Well on mine it says to run a 10amp fuse in it,
>>the previous owner had a 15amp fuse in there, could this have fried out
>>my headlightswitch? He also had over juiced the radio one from a 15 to
>>a 25 I caught all of those and fixed all of them. So I start tapinging
>>up and recutting new lines, the consent 12v wire that goes into the
>>headlight switch was fried pretty bad so I thought I had found it, but
>>it wasn't it. So I pulled all the marker lights today to see if it was
>>a bad bulb with all the bulbs out I put the fuse in the block pulled
>>the headlight switch and it snapped the fuse. My headlights work, so do
>>my turning signals, and if you apply the brake the brake lights do come
>>one nice and strong so what could be snapping my fuse for the park and
>>interiour lights everytime I pull the switch? Could it be a bad ground?
>>Where are the grounds located for all the parking lights? I've had this
>>problem for 2 weeks now almsot as long as I've owned the jeep lol : (
>>. I found at the bottom by the gas pedal 3 black wires with white
>>stripes running to what looked like a conactor thats just hanging
>>there. It was tucked behind the carpet. It breaks off the main computer
>>harness underneath the driver side to the right up by the heat duct.
>>Anyone know what would go to? I could send a pic if need be.
>>
>>Sorry for it being so long I just wanted to be as specific as possiable
>>if you want pictures of anything or have questions feel free to shoot,
>>I'll be watching the forum for any help.
>>
>>Sincerely
>>
>>Dave
>>
>
>
>
> *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***