76 CJ-5 questions.......
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 76 CJ-5 questions.......
> The Haynes CJ manual isn't expensive and is a very good manual for most
> things.
Thats my plan also.
>
> Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
> (rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
> PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
> yet?
PCV seems to rattle fine, when removed with the engine running i feel
suction?
>
> Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
> the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
> to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
> valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
> causing oil pressure in the wrong places.
>
Like i said im new... i dont see any charcoal filter..a line from the rear
of the valve cover gasket runs up to underneath the air clearner..doesnt
seem to be any kind of restriction to it though. No filtering media of any
kind.
> Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?
Maybe a teeny amount, havent driven for extended periods yet.
>
> The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
> or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
> block the line for a quick test.
?????
>
> One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
> mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
> too short so at low rpm it misses.
>
> How many miles are on it?
Unknown.. looks like sombody replaced the gauges and it only shows 16k
>
> When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?
No..would this be a better test? it was running but only for a few seconds
to get psi up.
>
Heres a link to a pic that shows what i am dealing with if it helps....
> things.
Thats my plan also.
>
> Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
> (rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
> PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
> yet?
PCV seems to rattle fine, when removed with the engine running i feel
suction?
>
> Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
> the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
> to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
> valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
> causing oil pressure in the wrong places.
>
Like i said im new... i dont see any charcoal filter..a line from the rear
of the valve cover gasket runs up to underneath the air clearner..doesnt
seem to be any kind of restriction to it though. No filtering media of any
kind.
> Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?
Maybe a teeny amount, havent driven for extended periods yet.
>
> The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
> or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
> block the line for a quick test.
?????
>
> One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
> mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
> too short so at low rpm it misses.
>
> How many miles are on it?
Unknown.. looks like sombody replaced the gauges and it only shows 16k
>
> When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?
No..would this be a better test? it was running but only for a few seconds
to get psi up.
>
Heres a link to a pic that shows what i am dealing with if it helps....
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 76 CJ-5 questions.......
> The Haynes CJ manual isn't expensive and is a very good manual for most
> things.
Thats my plan also.
>
> Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
> (rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
> PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
> yet?
PCV seems to rattle fine, when removed with the engine running i feel
suction?
>
> Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
> the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
> to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
> valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
> causing oil pressure in the wrong places.
>
Like i said im new... i dont see any charcoal filter..a line from the rear
of the valve cover gasket runs up to underneath the air clearner..doesnt
seem to be any kind of restriction to it though. No filtering media of any
kind.
> Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?
Maybe a teeny amount, havent driven for extended periods yet.
>
> The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
> or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
> block the line for a quick test.
?????
>
> One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
> mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
> too short so at low rpm it misses.
>
> How many miles are on it?
Unknown.. looks like sombody replaced the gauges and it only shows 16k
>
> When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?
No..would this be a better test? it was running but only for a few seconds
to get psi up.
>
Heres a link to a pic that shows what i am dealing with if it helps....
> things.
Thats my plan also.
>
> Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
> (rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
> PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
> yet?
PCV seems to rattle fine, when removed with the engine running i feel
suction?
>
> Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
> the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
> to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
> valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
> causing oil pressure in the wrong places.
>
Like i said im new... i dont see any charcoal filter..a line from the rear
of the valve cover gasket runs up to underneath the air clearner..doesnt
seem to be any kind of restriction to it though. No filtering media of any
kind.
> Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?
Maybe a teeny amount, havent driven for extended periods yet.
>
> The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
> or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
> block the line for a quick test.
?????
>
> One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
> mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
> too short so at low rpm it misses.
>
> How many miles are on it?
Unknown.. looks like sombody replaced the gauges and it only shows 16k
>
> When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?
No..would this be a better test? it was running but only for a few seconds
to get psi up.
>
Heres a link to a pic that shows what i am dealing with if it helps....
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 76 CJ-5 questions.......
> The Haynes CJ manual isn't expensive and is a very good manual for most
> things.
Thats my plan also.
>
> Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
> (rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
> PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
> yet?
PCV seems to rattle fine, when removed with the engine running i feel
suction?
>
> Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
> the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
> to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
> valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
> causing oil pressure in the wrong places.
>
Like i said im new... i dont see any charcoal filter..a line from the rear
of the valve cover gasket runs up to underneath the air clearner..doesnt
seem to be any kind of restriction to it though. No filtering media of any
kind.
> Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?
Maybe a teeny amount, havent driven for extended periods yet.
>
> The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
> or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
> block the line for a quick test.
?????
>
> One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
> mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
> too short so at low rpm it misses.
>
> How many miles are on it?
Unknown.. looks like sombody replaced the gauges and it only shows 16k
>
> When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?
No..would this be a better test? it was running but only for a few seconds
to get psi up.
>
Heres a link to a pic that shows what i am dealing with if it helps....
> things.
Thats my plan also.
>
> Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
> (rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
> PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
> yet?
PCV seems to rattle fine, when removed with the engine running i feel
suction?
>
> Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
> the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
> to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
> valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
> causing oil pressure in the wrong places.
>
Like i said im new... i dont see any charcoal filter..a line from the rear
of the valve cover gasket runs up to underneath the air clearner..doesnt
seem to be any kind of restriction to it though. No filtering media of any
kind.
> Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?
Maybe a teeny amount, havent driven for extended periods yet.
>
> The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
> or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
> block the line for a quick test.
?????
>
> One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
> mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
> too short so at low rpm it misses.
>
> How many miles are on it?
Unknown.. looks like sombody replaced the gauges and it only shows 16k
>
> When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?
No..would this be a better test? it was running but only for a few seconds
to get psi up.
>
Heres a link to a pic that shows what i am dealing with if it helps....
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 76 CJ-5 questions.......
Ok.....
Well, you have a bit of work ahead of you to make it run right.
Someone has taken out the gas tank vent by the looks of it. This also
vents the carb float bowl and is called an evaporation system's charcoal
canister.
Ok, on second look, trace the large line that is pulled off the big
nipple at the front top of the carb and see where it goes. It is
'supposed' to lead to the canister which looks like a coffee can with a
bunch of hoses coming off the top.
Without a vent, dirt 'will' get into the carb really fast and without a
gas tank vent, it will either stink like raw gas in the sun or it will
act like it runs out of gas after running for a bit when a vacuum builds
up on the tank.
The gas filter appears to be missing along with the gas return line that
comes from it. The return line prevents vapor lock when you shut down a
hot engine.
The lack of a gas filter isn't a good thing for the carb, it will plug
up 'fast' and cause it to run really bad. The gas filter should sit
where that rubber line is about 8" before the carb.
Your EGR appears to be unhooked or I just can't see a line going to it.
That's the round silver thing bottom center of the photo on the exhaust
manifold.
The main gas line will run up the passenger side frame rail and the gas
return line should run along the drivers side frame rail. When the
return lines leak, some folks just disconnect them.
This might get you started in the right direction.
Here is a good link on the CJ systems and what they do. A lot of it is
for the newer ones, but it should give you some ideas:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Steve G wrote:
>
> > The Haynes CJ manual isn't expensive and is a very good manual for most
> > things.
>
> Thats my plan also.
>
> >
> > Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
> > (rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
> > PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
> > yet?
>
> PCV seems to rattle fine, when removed with the engine running i feel
> suction?
>
> >
> > Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
> > the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
> > to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
> > valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
> > causing oil pressure in the wrong places.
> >
>
> Like i said im new... i dont see any charcoal filter..a line from the rear
> of the valve cover gasket runs up to underneath the air clearner..doesnt
> seem to be any kind of restriction to it though. No filtering media of any
> kind.
>
> > Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?
>
> Maybe a teeny amount, havent driven for extended periods yet.
>
> >
> > The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
> > or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
> > block the line for a quick test.
>
> ?????
>
> >
> > One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
> > mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
> > too short so at low rpm it misses.
> >
> > How many miles are on it?
>
> Unknown.. looks like sombody replaced the gauges and it only shows 16k
>
> >
> > When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?
>
> No..would this be a better test? it was running but only for a few seconds
> to get psi up.
>
> >
>
> Heres a link to a pic that shows what i am dealing with if it helps....
>
>
Well, you have a bit of work ahead of you to make it run right.
Someone has taken out the gas tank vent by the looks of it. This also
vents the carb float bowl and is called an evaporation system's charcoal
canister.
Ok, on second look, trace the large line that is pulled off the big
nipple at the front top of the carb and see where it goes. It is
'supposed' to lead to the canister which looks like a coffee can with a
bunch of hoses coming off the top.
Without a vent, dirt 'will' get into the carb really fast and without a
gas tank vent, it will either stink like raw gas in the sun or it will
act like it runs out of gas after running for a bit when a vacuum builds
up on the tank.
The gas filter appears to be missing along with the gas return line that
comes from it. The return line prevents vapor lock when you shut down a
hot engine.
The lack of a gas filter isn't a good thing for the carb, it will plug
up 'fast' and cause it to run really bad. The gas filter should sit
where that rubber line is about 8" before the carb.
Your EGR appears to be unhooked or I just can't see a line going to it.
That's the round silver thing bottom center of the photo on the exhaust
manifold.
The main gas line will run up the passenger side frame rail and the gas
return line should run along the drivers side frame rail. When the
return lines leak, some folks just disconnect them.
This might get you started in the right direction.
Here is a good link on the CJ systems and what they do. A lot of it is
for the newer ones, but it should give you some ideas:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Steve G wrote:
>
> > The Haynes CJ manual isn't expensive and is a very good manual for most
> > things.
>
> Thats my plan also.
>
> >
> > Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
> > (rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
> > PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
> > yet?
>
> PCV seems to rattle fine, when removed with the engine running i feel
> suction?
>
> >
> > Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
> > the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
> > to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
> > valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
> > causing oil pressure in the wrong places.
> >
>
> Like i said im new... i dont see any charcoal filter..a line from the rear
> of the valve cover gasket runs up to underneath the air clearner..doesnt
> seem to be any kind of restriction to it though. No filtering media of any
> kind.
>
> > Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?
>
> Maybe a teeny amount, havent driven for extended periods yet.
>
> >
> > The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
> > or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
> > block the line for a quick test.
>
> ?????
>
> >
> > One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
> > mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
> > too short so at low rpm it misses.
> >
> > How many miles are on it?
>
> Unknown.. looks like sombody replaced the gauges and it only shows 16k
>
> >
> > When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?
>
> No..would this be a better test? it was running but only for a few seconds
> to get psi up.
>
> >
>
> Heres a link to a pic that shows what i am dealing with if it helps....
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 76 CJ-5 questions.......
Ok.....
Well, you have a bit of work ahead of you to make it run right.
Someone has taken out the gas tank vent by the looks of it. This also
vents the carb float bowl and is called an evaporation system's charcoal
canister.
Ok, on second look, trace the large line that is pulled off the big
nipple at the front top of the carb and see where it goes. It is
'supposed' to lead to the canister which looks like a coffee can with a
bunch of hoses coming off the top.
Without a vent, dirt 'will' get into the carb really fast and without a
gas tank vent, it will either stink like raw gas in the sun or it will
act like it runs out of gas after running for a bit when a vacuum builds
up on the tank.
The gas filter appears to be missing along with the gas return line that
comes from it. The return line prevents vapor lock when you shut down a
hot engine.
The lack of a gas filter isn't a good thing for the carb, it will plug
up 'fast' and cause it to run really bad. The gas filter should sit
where that rubber line is about 8" before the carb.
Your EGR appears to be unhooked or I just can't see a line going to it.
That's the round silver thing bottom center of the photo on the exhaust
manifold.
The main gas line will run up the passenger side frame rail and the gas
return line should run along the drivers side frame rail. When the
return lines leak, some folks just disconnect them.
This might get you started in the right direction.
Here is a good link on the CJ systems and what they do. A lot of it is
for the newer ones, but it should give you some ideas:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Steve G wrote:
>
> > The Haynes CJ manual isn't expensive and is a very good manual for most
> > things.
>
> Thats my plan also.
>
> >
> > Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
> > (rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
> > PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
> > yet?
>
> PCV seems to rattle fine, when removed with the engine running i feel
> suction?
>
> >
> > Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
> > the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
> > to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
> > valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
> > causing oil pressure in the wrong places.
> >
>
> Like i said im new... i dont see any charcoal filter..a line from the rear
> of the valve cover gasket runs up to underneath the air clearner..doesnt
> seem to be any kind of restriction to it though. No filtering media of any
> kind.
>
> > Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?
>
> Maybe a teeny amount, havent driven for extended periods yet.
>
> >
> > The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
> > or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
> > block the line for a quick test.
>
> ?????
>
> >
> > One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
> > mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
> > too short so at low rpm it misses.
> >
> > How many miles are on it?
>
> Unknown.. looks like sombody replaced the gauges and it only shows 16k
>
> >
> > When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?
>
> No..would this be a better test? it was running but only for a few seconds
> to get psi up.
>
> >
>
> Heres a link to a pic that shows what i am dealing with if it helps....
>
>
Well, you have a bit of work ahead of you to make it run right.
Someone has taken out the gas tank vent by the looks of it. This also
vents the carb float bowl and is called an evaporation system's charcoal
canister.
Ok, on second look, trace the large line that is pulled off the big
nipple at the front top of the carb and see where it goes. It is
'supposed' to lead to the canister which looks like a coffee can with a
bunch of hoses coming off the top.
Without a vent, dirt 'will' get into the carb really fast and without a
gas tank vent, it will either stink like raw gas in the sun or it will
act like it runs out of gas after running for a bit when a vacuum builds
up on the tank.
The gas filter appears to be missing along with the gas return line that
comes from it. The return line prevents vapor lock when you shut down a
hot engine.
The lack of a gas filter isn't a good thing for the carb, it will plug
up 'fast' and cause it to run really bad. The gas filter should sit
where that rubber line is about 8" before the carb.
Your EGR appears to be unhooked or I just can't see a line going to it.
That's the round silver thing bottom center of the photo on the exhaust
manifold.
The main gas line will run up the passenger side frame rail and the gas
return line should run along the drivers side frame rail. When the
return lines leak, some folks just disconnect them.
This might get you started in the right direction.
Here is a good link on the CJ systems and what they do. A lot of it is
for the newer ones, but it should give you some ideas:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Steve G wrote:
>
> > The Haynes CJ manual isn't expensive and is a very good manual for most
> > things.
>
> Thats my plan also.
>
> >
> > Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
> > (rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
> > PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
> > yet?
>
> PCV seems to rattle fine, when removed with the engine running i feel
> suction?
>
> >
> > Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
> > the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
> > to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
> > valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
> > causing oil pressure in the wrong places.
> >
>
> Like i said im new... i dont see any charcoal filter..a line from the rear
> of the valve cover gasket runs up to underneath the air clearner..doesnt
> seem to be any kind of restriction to it though. No filtering media of any
> kind.
>
> > Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?
>
> Maybe a teeny amount, havent driven for extended periods yet.
>
> >
> > The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
> > or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
> > block the line for a quick test.
>
> ?????
>
> >
> > One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
> > mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
> > too short so at low rpm it misses.
> >
> > How many miles are on it?
>
> Unknown.. looks like sombody replaced the gauges and it only shows 16k
>
> >
> > When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?
>
> No..would this be a better test? it was running but only for a few seconds
> to get psi up.
>
> >
>
> Heres a link to a pic that shows what i am dealing with if it helps....
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 76 CJ-5 questions.......
Ok.....
Well, you have a bit of work ahead of you to make it run right.
Someone has taken out the gas tank vent by the looks of it. This also
vents the carb float bowl and is called an evaporation system's charcoal
canister.
Ok, on second look, trace the large line that is pulled off the big
nipple at the front top of the carb and see where it goes. It is
'supposed' to lead to the canister which looks like a coffee can with a
bunch of hoses coming off the top.
Without a vent, dirt 'will' get into the carb really fast and without a
gas tank vent, it will either stink like raw gas in the sun or it will
act like it runs out of gas after running for a bit when a vacuum builds
up on the tank.
The gas filter appears to be missing along with the gas return line that
comes from it. The return line prevents vapor lock when you shut down a
hot engine.
The lack of a gas filter isn't a good thing for the carb, it will plug
up 'fast' and cause it to run really bad. The gas filter should sit
where that rubber line is about 8" before the carb.
Your EGR appears to be unhooked or I just can't see a line going to it.
That's the round silver thing bottom center of the photo on the exhaust
manifold.
The main gas line will run up the passenger side frame rail and the gas
return line should run along the drivers side frame rail. When the
return lines leak, some folks just disconnect them.
This might get you started in the right direction.
Here is a good link on the CJ systems and what they do. A lot of it is
for the newer ones, but it should give you some ideas:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Steve G wrote:
>
> > The Haynes CJ manual isn't expensive and is a very good manual for most
> > things.
>
> Thats my plan also.
>
> >
> > Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
> > (rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
> > PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
> > yet?
>
> PCV seems to rattle fine, when removed with the engine running i feel
> suction?
>
> >
> > Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
> > the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
> > to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
> > valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
> > causing oil pressure in the wrong places.
> >
>
> Like i said im new... i dont see any charcoal filter..a line from the rear
> of the valve cover gasket runs up to underneath the air clearner..doesnt
> seem to be any kind of restriction to it though. No filtering media of any
> kind.
>
> > Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?
>
> Maybe a teeny amount, havent driven for extended periods yet.
>
> >
> > The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
> > or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
> > block the line for a quick test.
>
> ?????
>
> >
> > One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
> > mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
> > too short so at low rpm it misses.
> >
> > How many miles are on it?
>
> Unknown.. looks like sombody replaced the gauges and it only shows 16k
>
> >
> > When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?
>
> No..would this be a better test? it was running but only for a few seconds
> to get psi up.
>
> >
>
> Heres a link to a pic that shows what i am dealing with if it helps....
>
>
Well, you have a bit of work ahead of you to make it run right.
Someone has taken out the gas tank vent by the looks of it. This also
vents the carb float bowl and is called an evaporation system's charcoal
canister.
Ok, on second look, trace the large line that is pulled off the big
nipple at the front top of the carb and see where it goes. It is
'supposed' to lead to the canister which looks like a coffee can with a
bunch of hoses coming off the top.
Without a vent, dirt 'will' get into the carb really fast and without a
gas tank vent, it will either stink like raw gas in the sun or it will
act like it runs out of gas after running for a bit when a vacuum builds
up on the tank.
The gas filter appears to be missing along with the gas return line that
comes from it. The return line prevents vapor lock when you shut down a
hot engine.
The lack of a gas filter isn't a good thing for the carb, it will plug
up 'fast' and cause it to run really bad. The gas filter should sit
where that rubber line is about 8" before the carb.
Your EGR appears to be unhooked or I just can't see a line going to it.
That's the round silver thing bottom center of the photo on the exhaust
manifold.
The main gas line will run up the passenger side frame rail and the gas
return line should run along the drivers side frame rail. When the
return lines leak, some folks just disconnect them.
This might get you started in the right direction.
Here is a good link on the CJ systems and what they do. A lot of it is
for the newer ones, but it should give you some ideas:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Steve G wrote:
>
> > The Haynes CJ manual isn't expensive and is a very good manual for most
> > things.
>
> Thats my plan also.
>
> >
> > Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
> > (rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
> > PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
> > yet?
>
> PCV seems to rattle fine, when removed with the engine running i feel
> suction?
>
> >
> > Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
> > the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
> > to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
> > valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
> > causing oil pressure in the wrong places.
> >
>
> Like i said im new... i dont see any charcoal filter..a line from the rear
> of the valve cover gasket runs up to underneath the air clearner..doesnt
> seem to be any kind of restriction to it though. No filtering media of any
> kind.
>
> > Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?
>
> Maybe a teeny amount, havent driven for extended periods yet.
>
> >
> > The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
> > or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
> > block the line for a quick test.
>
> ?????
>
> >
> > One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
> > mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
> > too short so at low rpm it misses.
> >
> > How many miles are on it?
>
> Unknown.. looks like sombody replaced the gauges and it only shows 16k
>
> >
> > When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?
>
> No..would this be a better test? it was running but only for a few seconds
> to get psi up.
>
> >
>
> Heres a link to a pic that shows what i am dealing with if it helps....
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 76 CJ-5 questions.......
Ok.....
Well, you have a bit of work ahead of you to make it run right.
Someone has taken out the gas tank vent by the looks of it. This also
vents the carb float bowl and is called an evaporation system's charcoal
canister.
Ok, on second look, trace the large line that is pulled off the big
nipple at the front top of the carb and see where it goes. It is
'supposed' to lead to the canister which looks like a coffee can with a
bunch of hoses coming off the top.
Without a vent, dirt 'will' get into the carb really fast and without a
gas tank vent, it will either stink like raw gas in the sun or it will
act like it runs out of gas after running for a bit when a vacuum builds
up on the tank.
The gas filter appears to be missing along with the gas return line that
comes from it. The return line prevents vapor lock when you shut down a
hot engine.
The lack of a gas filter isn't a good thing for the carb, it will plug
up 'fast' and cause it to run really bad. The gas filter should sit
where that rubber line is about 8" before the carb.
Your EGR appears to be unhooked or I just can't see a line going to it.
That's the round silver thing bottom center of the photo on the exhaust
manifold.
The main gas line will run up the passenger side frame rail and the gas
return line should run along the drivers side frame rail. When the
return lines leak, some folks just disconnect them.
This might get you started in the right direction.
Here is a good link on the CJ systems and what they do. A lot of it is
for the newer ones, but it should give you some ideas:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Steve G wrote:
>
> > The Haynes CJ manual isn't expensive and is a very good manual for most
> > things.
>
> Thats my plan also.
>
> >
> > Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
> > (rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
> > PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
> > yet?
>
> PCV seems to rattle fine, when removed with the engine running i feel
> suction?
>
> >
> > Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
> > the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
> > to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
> > valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
> > causing oil pressure in the wrong places.
> >
>
> Like i said im new... i dont see any charcoal filter..a line from the rear
> of the valve cover gasket runs up to underneath the air clearner..doesnt
> seem to be any kind of restriction to it though. No filtering media of any
> kind.
>
> > Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?
>
> Maybe a teeny amount, havent driven for extended periods yet.
>
> >
> > The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
> > or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
> > block the line for a quick test.
>
> ?????
>
> >
> > One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
> > mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
> > too short so at low rpm it misses.
> >
> > How many miles are on it?
>
> Unknown.. looks like sombody replaced the gauges and it only shows 16k
>
> >
> > When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?
>
> No..would this be a better test? it was running but only for a few seconds
> to get psi up.
>
> >
>
> Heres a link to a pic that shows what i am dealing with if it helps....
>
>
Well, you have a bit of work ahead of you to make it run right.
Someone has taken out the gas tank vent by the looks of it. This also
vents the carb float bowl and is called an evaporation system's charcoal
canister.
Ok, on second look, trace the large line that is pulled off the big
nipple at the front top of the carb and see where it goes. It is
'supposed' to lead to the canister which looks like a coffee can with a
bunch of hoses coming off the top.
Without a vent, dirt 'will' get into the carb really fast and without a
gas tank vent, it will either stink like raw gas in the sun or it will
act like it runs out of gas after running for a bit when a vacuum builds
up on the tank.
The gas filter appears to be missing along with the gas return line that
comes from it. The return line prevents vapor lock when you shut down a
hot engine.
The lack of a gas filter isn't a good thing for the carb, it will plug
up 'fast' and cause it to run really bad. The gas filter should sit
where that rubber line is about 8" before the carb.
Your EGR appears to be unhooked or I just can't see a line going to it.
That's the round silver thing bottom center of the photo on the exhaust
manifold.
The main gas line will run up the passenger side frame rail and the gas
return line should run along the drivers side frame rail. When the
return lines leak, some folks just disconnect them.
This might get you started in the right direction.
Here is a good link on the CJ systems and what they do. A lot of it is
for the newer ones, but it should give you some ideas:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Steve G wrote:
>
> > The Haynes CJ manual isn't expensive and is a very good manual for most
> > things.
>
> Thats my plan also.
>
> >
> > Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
> > (rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
> > PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
> > yet?
>
> PCV seems to rattle fine, when removed with the engine running i feel
> suction?
>
> >
> > Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
> > the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
> > to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
> > valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
> > causing oil pressure in the wrong places.
> >
>
> Like i said im new... i dont see any charcoal filter..a line from the rear
> of the valve cover gasket runs up to underneath the air clearner..doesnt
> seem to be any kind of restriction to it though. No filtering media of any
> kind.
>
> > Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?
>
> Maybe a teeny amount, havent driven for extended periods yet.
>
> >
> > The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
> > or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
> > block the line for a quick test.
>
> ?????
>
> >
> > One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
> > mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
> > too short so at low rpm it misses.
> >
> > How many miles are on it?
>
> Unknown.. looks like sombody replaced the gauges and it only shows 16k
>
> >
> > When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?
>
> No..would this be a better test? it was running but only for a few seconds
> to get psi up.
>
> >
>
> Heres a link to a pic that shows what i am dealing with if it helps....
>
>