I did it! I went and bought the 76 CJ-5 ive been bugging you guys about
lately. Rust seems minimal..yayyyy.

I compression checked the cylinders on the 258... from the fan back it got..
110..90...100...85...80...95

Im betting this is causing me an oil leak..blow by?

I have oil barely coming out of dipstick hole. (time for rebuild maybe) Id
thought it was the valve cover gasket id read so much about but its a metal
one and i put a new gasket on it ..for 6$ i figured id find out. Then the
oil filler cap seemed to be the leaking problem...new cap $1.50 and that
fixed that area.

From underneath.. looks like rear main seal leak as well..sombody told me
this was common issue with the I6. Is this true?

Supposed to have a new (looks like it as well) Carb, new distributor, new
fuel pump, and still sputters just a bit when i start off, anything to try
first.? It runs decent once it warms a little and is in steady throttle.
Idle is ok though.

My next thing when i get off working nights this weekend is to find a repair
manual of some kind so maybe i can find some of these answers.

Thanks for any help!!!

 

Congrats!

The Haynes CJ manual isn't expensive and is a very good manual for most
things.

Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
(rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
yet?

Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
causing oil pressure in the wrong places.

Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?

The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
block the line for a quick test.

One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
too short so at low rpm it misses.

How many miles are on it?

When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?

You also can put a tablespoon of oil into each cylinder and do a second
compression test to see if the rings are weak or the valves are weak.
If the compression comes up, the rings are leaky, if it stays the same,
the top is leaky.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Steve G wrote:
>
> I did it! I went and bought the 76 CJ-5 ive been bugging you guys about
> lately. Rust seems minimal..yayyyy.
>
> I compression checked the cylinders on the 258... from the fan back it got..
> 110..90...100...85...80...95
>
> Im betting this is causing me an oil leak..blow by?
>
> I have oil barely coming out of dipstick hole. (time for rebuild maybe) Id
> thought it was the valve cover gasket id read so much about but its a metal
> one and i put a new gasket on it ..for 6$ i figured id find out. Then the
> oil filler cap seemed to be the leaking problem...new cap $1.50 and that
> fixed that area.
>
> From underneath.. looks like rear main seal leak as well..sombody told me
> this was common issue with the I6. Is this true?
>
> Supposed to have a new (looks like it as well) Carb, new distributor, new
> fuel pump, and still sputters just a bit when i start off, anything to try
> first.? It runs decent once it warms a little and is in steady throttle.
> Idle is ok though.
>
> My next thing when i get off working nights this weekend is to find a repair
> manual of some kind so maybe i can find some of these answers.
>
> Thanks for any help!!!

 

Congrats!

The Haynes CJ manual isn't expensive and is a very good manual for most
things.

Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
(rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
yet?

Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
causing oil pressure in the wrong places.

Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?

The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
block the line for a quick test.

One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
too short so at low rpm it misses.

How many miles are on it?

When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?

You also can put a tablespoon of oil into each cylinder and do a second
compression test to see if the rings are weak or the valves are weak.
If the compression comes up, the rings are leaky, if it stays the same,
the top is leaky.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Steve G wrote:
>
> I did it! I went and bought the 76 CJ-5 ive been bugging you guys about
> lately. Rust seems minimal..yayyyy.
>
> I compression checked the cylinders on the 258... from the fan back it got..
> 110..90...100...85...80...95
>
> Im betting this is causing me an oil leak..blow by?
>
> I have oil barely coming out of dipstick hole. (time for rebuild maybe) Id
> thought it was the valve cover gasket id read so much about but its a metal
> one and i put a new gasket on it ..for 6$ i figured id find out. Then the
> oil filler cap seemed to be the leaking problem...new cap $1.50 and that
> fixed that area.
>
> From underneath.. looks like rear main seal leak as well..sombody told me
> this was common issue with the I6. Is this true?
>
> Supposed to have a new (looks like it as well) Carb, new distributor, new
> fuel pump, and still sputters just a bit when i start off, anything to try
> first.? It runs decent once it warms a little and is in steady throttle.
> Idle is ok though.
>
> My next thing when i get off working nights this weekend is to find a repair
> manual of some kind so maybe i can find some of these answers.
>
> Thanks for any help!!!

 

Congrats!

The Haynes CJ manual isn't expensive and is a very good manual for most
things.

Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
(rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
yet?

Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
causing oil pressure in the wrong places.

Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?

The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
block the line for a quick test.

One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
too short so at low rpm it misses.

How many miles are on it?

When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?

You also can put a tablespoon of oil into each cylinder and do a second
compression test to see if the rings are weak or the valves are weak.
If the compression comes up, the rings are leaky, if it stays the same,
the top is leaky.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Steve G wrote:
>
> I did it! I went and bought the 76 CJ-5 ive been bugging you guys about
> lately. Rust seems minimal..yayyyy.
>
> I compression checked the cylinders on the 258... from the fan back it got..
> 110..90...100...85...80...95
>
> Im betting this is causing me an oil leak..blow by?
>
> I have oil barely coming out of dipstick hole. (time for rebuild maybe) Id
> thought it was the valve cover gasket id read so much about but its a metal
> one and i put a new gasket on it ..for 6$ i figured id find out. Then the
> oil filler cap seemed to be the leaking problem...new cap $1.50 and that
> fixed that area.
>
> From underneath.. looks like rear main seal leak as well..sombody told me
> this was common issue with the I6. Is this true?
>
> Supposed to have a new (looks like it as well) Carb, new distributor, new
> fuel pump, and still sputters just a bit when i start off, anything to try
> first.? It runs decent once it warms a little and is in steady throttle.
> Idle is ok though.
>
> My next thing when i get off working nights this weekend is to find a repair
> manual of some kind so maybe i can find some of these answers.
>
> Thanks for any help!!!

 

Congrats!

The Haynes CJ manual isn't expensive and is a very good manual for most
things.

Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
(rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
yet?

Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
causing oil pressure in the wrong places.

Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?

The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
block the line for a quick test.

One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
too short so at low rpm it misses.

How many miles are on it?

When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?

You also can put a tablespoon of oil into each cylinder and do a second
compression test to see if the rings are weak or the valves are weak.
If the compression comes up, the rings are leaky, if it stays the same,
the top is leaky.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Steve G wrote:
>
> I did it! I went and bought the 76 CJ-5 ive been bugging you guys about
> lately. Rust seems minimal..yayyyy.
>
> I compression checked the cylinders on the 258... from the fan back it got..
> 110..90...100...85...80...95
>
> Im betting this is causing me an oil leak..blow by?
>
> I have oil barely coming out of dipstick hole. (time for rebuild maybe) Id
> thought it was the valve cover gasket id read so much about but its a metal
> one and i put a new gasket on it ..for 6$ i figured id find out. Then the
> oil filler cap seemed to be the leaking problem...new cap $1.50 and that
> fixed that area.
>
> From underneath.. looks like rear main seal leak as well..sombody told me
> this was common issue with the I6. Is this true?
>
> Supposed to have a new (looks like it as well) Carb, new distributor, new
> fuel pump, and still sputters just a bit when i start off, anything to try
> first.? It runs decent once it warms a little and is in steady throttle.
> Idle is ok though.
>
> My next thing when i get off working nights this weekend is to find a repair
> manual of some kind so maybe i can find some of these answers.
>
> Thanks for any help!!!

 

Mike does he need to drill out the idle tubes, etc?

--
..
Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
Brilliant Black Crystal Pearl Coat
Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
..
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:43236215.BBE2F1E8@sympatico.ca...
> Congrats!
>
> The Haynes CJ manual isn't expensive and is a very good manual for most
> things.
>
> Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
> (rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
> PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
> yet?
>
> Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
> the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
> to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
> valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
> causing oil pressure in the wrong places.
>
> Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?
>
> The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
> or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
> block the line for a quick test.
>
> One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
> mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
> too short so at low rpm it misses.
>
> How many miles are on it?
>
> When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?
>
> You also can put a tablespoon of oil into each cylinder and do a second
> compression test to see if the rings are weak or the valves are weak.
> If the compression comes up, the rings are leaky, if it stays the same,
> the top is leaky.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Steve G wrote:
>>
>> I did it! I went and bought the 76 CJ-5 ive been bugging you guys about
>> lately. Rust seems minimal..yayyyy.
>>
>> I compression checked the cylinders on the 258... from the fan back it
>> got..
>> 110..90...100...85...80...95
>>
>> Im betting this is causing me an oil leak..blow by?
>>
>> I have oil barely coming out of dipstick hole. (time for rebuild maybe)
>> Id
>> thought it was the valve cover gasket id read so much about but its a
>> metal
>> one and i put a new gasket on it ..for 6$ i figured id find out. Then the
>> oil filler cap seemed to be the leaking problem...new cap $1.50 and that
>> fixed that area.
>>
>> From underneath.. looks like rear main seal leak as well..sombody told me
>> this was common issue with the I6. Is this true?
>>
>> Supposed to have a new (looks like it as well) Carb, new distributor, new
>> fuel pump, and still sputters just a bit when i start off, anything to
>> try
>> first.? It runs decent once it warms a little and is in steady throttle.
>> Idle is ok though.
>>
>> My next thing when i get off working nights this weekend is to find a
>> repair
>> manual of some kind so maybe i can find some of these answers.
>>
>> Thanks for any help!!!

 

Mike does he need to drill out the idle tubes, etc?

--
..
Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
Brilliant Black Crystal Pearl Coat
Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
..
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:43236215.BBE2F1E8@sympatico.ca...
> Congrats!
>
> The Haynes CJ manual isn't expensive and is a very good manual for most
> things.
>
> Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
> (rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
> PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
> yet?
>
> Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
> the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
> to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
> valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
> causing oil pressure in the wrong places.
>
> Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?
>
> The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
> or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
> block the line for a quick test.
>
> One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
> mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
> too short so at low rpm it misses.
>
> How many miles are on it?
>
> When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?
>
> You also can put a tablespoon of oil into each cylinder and do a second
> compression test to see if the rings are weak or the valves are weak.
> If the compression comes up, the rings are leaky, if it stays the same,
> the top is leaky.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Steve G wrote:
>>
>> I did it! I went and bought the 76 CJ-5 ive been bugging you guys about
>> lately. Rust seems minimal..yayyyy.
>>
>> I compression checked the cylinders on the 258... from the fan back it
>> got..
>> 110..90...100...85...80...95
>>
>> Im betting this is causing me an oil leak..blow by?
>>
>> I have oil barely coming out of dipstick hole. (time for rebuild maybe)
>> Id
>> thought it was the valve cover gasket id read so much about but its a
>> metal
>> one and i put a new gasket on it ..for 6$ i figured id find out. Then the
>> oil filler cap seemed to be the leaking problem...new cap $1.50 and that
>> fixed that area.
>>
>> From underneath.. looks like rear main seal leak as well..sombody told me
>> this was common issue with the I6. Is this true?
>>
>> Supposed to have a new (looks like it as well) Carb, new distributor, new
>> fuel pump, and still sputters just a bit when i start off, anything to
>> try
>> first.? It runs decent once it warms a little and is in steady throttle.
>> Idle is ok though.
>>
>> My next thing when i get off working nights this weekend is to find a
>> repair
>> manual of some kind so maybe i can find some of these answers.
>>
>> Thanks for any help!!!

 

Mike does he need to drill out the idle tubes, etc?

--
..
Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
Brilliant Black Crystal Pearl Coat
Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
..
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:43236215.BBE2F1E8@sympatico.ca...
> Congrats!
>
> The Haynes CJ manual isn't expensive and is a very good manual for most
> things.
>
> Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
> (rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
> PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
> yet?
>
> Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
> the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
> to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
> valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
> causing oil pressure in the wrong places.
>
> Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?
>
> The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
> or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
> block the line for a quick test.
>
> One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
> mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
> too short so at low rpm it misses.
>
> How many miles are on it?
>
> When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?
>
> You also can put a tablespoon of oil into each cylinder and do a second
> compression test to see if the rings are weak or the valves are weak.
> If the compression comes up, the rings are leaky, if it stays the same,
> the top is leaky.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Steve G wrote:
>>
>> I did it! I went and bought the 76 CJ-5 ive been bugging you guys about
>> lately. Rust seems minimal..yayyyy.
>>
>> I compression checked the cylinders on the 258... from the fan back it
>> got..
>> 110..90...100...85...80...95
>>
>> Im betting this is causing me an oil leak..blow by?
>>
>> I have oil barely coming out of dipstick hole. (time for rebuild maybe)
>> Id
>> thought it was the valve cover gasket id read so much about but its a
>> metal
>> one and i put a new gasket on it ..for 6$ i figured id find out. Then the
>> oil filler cap seemed to be the leaking problem...new cap $1.50 and that
>> fixed that area.
>>
>> From underneath.. looks like rear main seal leak as well..sombody told me
>> this was common issue with the I6. Is this true?
>>
>> Supposed to have a new (looks like it as well) Carb, new distributor, new
>> fuel pump, and still sputters just a bit when i start off, anything to
>> try
>> first.? It runs decent once it warms a little and is in steady throttle.
>> Idle is ok though.
>>
>> My next thing when i get off working nights this weekend is to find a
>> repair
>> manual of some kind so maybe i can find some of these answers.
>>
>> Thanks for any help!!!

 

Mike does he need to drill out the idle tubes, etc?

--
..
Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
Brilliant Black Crystal Pearl Coat
Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
..
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:43236215.BBE2F1E8@sympatico.ca...
> Congrats!
>
> The Haynes CJ manual isn't expensive and is a very good manual for most
> things.
>
> Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
> (rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
> PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
> yet?
>
> Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
> the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
> to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
> valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
> causing oil pressure in the wrong places.
>
> Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?
>
> The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
> or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
> block the line for a quick test.
>
> One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
> mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
> too short so at low rpm it misses.
>
> How many miles are on it?
>
> When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?
>
> You also can put a tablespoon of oil into each cylinder and do a second
> compression test to see if the rings are weak or the valves are weak.
> If the compression comes up, the rings are leaky, if it stays the same,
> the top is leaky.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Steve G wrote:
>>
>> I did it! I went and bought the 76 CJ-5 ive been bugging you guys about
>> lately. Rust seems minimal..yayyyy.
>>
>> I compression checked the cylinders on the 258... from the fan back it
>> got..
>> 110..90...100...85...80...95
>>
>> Im betting this is causing me an oil leak..blow by?
>>
>> I have oil barely coming out of dipstick hole. (time for rebuild maybe)
>> Id
>> thought it was the valve cover gasket id read so much about but its a
>> metal
>> one and i put a new gasket on it ..for 6$ i figured id find out. Then the
>> oil filler cap seemed to be the leaking problem...new cap $1.50 and that
>> fixed that area.
>>
>> From underneath.. looks like rear main seal leak as well..sombody told me
>> this was common issue with the I6. Is this true?
>>
>> Supposed to have a new (looks like it as well) Carb, new distributor, new
>> fuel pump, and still sputters just a bit when i start off, anything to
>> try
>> first.? It runs decent once it warms a little and is in steady throttle.
>> Idle is ok though.
>>
>> My next thing when i get off working nights this weekend is to find a
>> repair
>> manual of some kind so maybe i can find some of these answers.
>>
>> Thanks for any help!!!

 

> The Haynes CJ manual isn't expensive and is a very good manual for most
> things.

Thats my plan also.


>
> Your issue with the oil could be a PCV issue. Does it have a good
> (rattles free when shaken) PCV valve and is the elbow at the back of the
> PCV line where it turns to the carb still an elbow or has it collapsed
> yet?

PCV seems to rattle fine, when removed with the engine running i feel
suction?

>
> Is there a second line either off the top of the PCV valve or on a T in
> the PCV line that goes to the charcoal canister? If so, pinch this line
> to the canister closed at idle. If the idle changes, the canister purge
> valve is bad or plumbed wrong and the PCV is effectively shut down
> causing oil pressure in the wrong places.
>

Like i said im new... i dont see any charcoal filter..a line from the rear
of the valve cover gasket runs up to underneath the air clearner..doesnt
seem to be any kind of restriction to it though. No filtering media of any
kind.

> Does it spit some oil into the air filter too?

Maybe a teeny amount, havent driven for extended periods yet.

>
> The sputter could be the above or maybe an EGR valve that opens too easy
> or isn't closed all the way due to carbon. You can unplug the EGR and
> block the line for a quick test.

?????

>
> One other strange one I have seen a bunch of lately and read here is a
> mis matched rotor and distributor cap. Some rotors are made about 1/8"
> too short so at low rpm it misses.
>
> How many miles are on it?

Unknown.. looks like sombody replaced the gauges and it only shows 16k

>
> When you did the compression did you have the throttle held wide open?

No..would this be a better test? it was running but only for a few seconds
to get psi up.

>

Heres a link to a pic that shows what i am dealing with if it helps....